A Step-By-Step Guide to Building a Tile Coffee Table With Wood Legs

Calculate the table top dimensions

To get started, determine the size of your tabletop understructure by laying out your tiles with 1/4-in. tile spacers to measure this accurately. Your calculations will work from the tile layer in, so the size of your tile layout determines the size of the backer board layer, which in turn determines the size of the wood frame to which the backer board is adhered.

Keep in mind that if you are using handmade tiles, not all your tiles will be exactly the same size, shape, etc. If your goal is to achieve perfect grout lines and uniform tile, I suggest continuing to follow these steps but using tile from a home center.

Cut the backer board

Using a large T-square and a pencil, draw the measurements for the backer board top (A), the long side (B), and the short side (C). Use an angle grinder with a masonry blade to cut the pieces to size.

Cut and assemble the table top framing

The backer board top (A) is 1/2-in. wider and longer than the wood frame it is attached to. This is to ensure the backer board sides (B and C) tuck in under the top and leave a clean edge for the tile to attach to.

Cut the short (E) and long (D) framing components out of the 2x4s. Cut them to their length first at the miter saw, then rip them to 2-1/2 inches wide at the table saw. 2-1/2-inch-wide framing components accommodate the width of the side tiles while still leaving room for mastic and grout to create a clean edge. Screw the short (E) and long (D) frame components together using 2-1/2-in. screws.

Attach the backer board to the frame

Secure the top (A) and sides (B and C) of the backer board to the table top framing components (D and E). Start with the backerboard sides (B and C). Remember, there is a 1/4-in. overhang on each side of the top (A) to allow the side pieces (B and C) to finish flush to the outside edge.  Space the backer board screws six to nine inches apart. To prevent splintering, do not install screws within 3/4-inch of the edges of the backer board.

Attach tiles to the tabletop

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to evenly spread the mastic on the backer board. Be sure to hold the trowel at a consistent, steep angle (around 45 degrees) as you pull it across the surface to capture the notch’s peak.

Transfer your tile layout to the mastic-covered table top. Start on the top (A), using a long straight edge and 1/4-in. spacers to keep your layout as evenly spaced as possible. To ensure full contact between the mastic and the back of the tile, you want the tiles to settle into the mastic when you lay them. If your handmade tiles have a curve that prevents them from making full contact with the mastic, apply more mastic to the back of the tile to ensure complete support.  This is referred to as “back buttering” the tile.  The goal is to avoid voids between the tile, mastic and backer board.  Voids increase the likelihood that the tile will crack under stress or excess weight.

When the top is complete, stop and let it sit overnight and set up. If you have to back butter multiple tiles, give it two days to ensure the mastic has hardened. Move on to the sides (B and C) only after the top tiles are secure in case you need to use tape to hold the edge tiles in place while their mastic dries.

Once all the tiles are attached, allow the mastic to dry and harden for another 24 hours before proceeding to the grout stage. During this time, move on to making the legs.

Cut the wood for legs

Cut the wood for your table legs from the cut list above using the miter and table saw. Because all the leg components are cut from the same 1-3/4-in.-square stock, label them as you go to keep each upright (F), outrigger (G), crossbrace (H), and stretcher (J) in order for assembly.

Assemble the legs with dowels

The legs are assembled as in Fig. B above with doweled butt joints. To ensure the dowelled joints line up correctly, you will use dowel centers. This process is time-consuming and requires some prototyping and practice if you haven’t built with dowel joinery before.

To create a joint using dowel centers:

1. Drill two 1/4-in. holes, a little deeper than half the length of your dowels, on one of the two pieces you will be joining. If you are not confident in drilling these holes straight, drill them on the drill press.
2. Place the dowel centers in the drilled 1/4-in. holes.
3. Bring the second piece of wood you are joining into position so the sides are aligned and flush.
4. Tap the end of the second piece of wood with a rubber mallet, forcing the point of the dowel center to leave a divot, aligning the 1/4-in. holes on the second piece of wood.
5. Use the divots left by the dowel centers as center points to drill corresponding 1/4-in. holes, a little deeper than half the length of your fluted dowels, in the second piece of wood.
6. Dry-fit the joint together without glue to ensure it is square and that the sides of the pieces are flush.
7. If the pieces dry-fit together as you like, glue and clamp the joint with clamping squares to ensure it stays square while the wood glue cures.

Work joint by joint until you have two three-dimensional “L” legs made of the uprights (F), outriggers (G) and crossbraces (H). Leave the legs separate, not attaching the stretchers (J) until attaching the legs to the underside of the table.

Sand and seal the legs

Once the glue has fully dried on all the joints of the legs, sand the assembled legs and loose stretchers (J) smooth using a palm sander. Step through the grits, starting at 120-grit and finishing at 220-grit. Vacuum off the legs to remove any sanding dust once finished.

Use a paintbrush to apply a generous coat of tung oil to the sanded leg components. Allow the tung oil to absorb into the wood for a few minutes, then wipe away any excess with a shop rag.  Apply two to three coats and allow to dry in between. Tung oil will develop a sheen as the coats build up. To keep a matte or stain sheen, be sure to wipe back each coat with a painter’s rag.

Rout a reveal

Use a wood router equipped with a 1/2-in. straight-cut router bit or a router table to rout a 1/2-in.-wide x 1/2-in.-deep rabbet along each outside edge of the outriggers (G) and the top of the uprights (F) they are doweled to. Clamp a scrap piece of wood to serve as a guide for the router. You may also choose to use a router table to create the rabbets.

This rabbet will compensate for any curves or imperfections along the bottom edges of your side tiles, making the attached legs appear to float below the tile top.

Attach the legs

To connect the legs to the tabletop:

1. Lay the tiled top upside down on a furniture pad or blanket to protect the tiles while securing the legs.
2. Start at one end. Secure one “L” of the legs to the framing, holding it in 1/4-in. from the edge of the outside short framing (E) piece. Pre-drill countersunk holes through the leg outriggers (G) and crossbraces (H) into the framing components (D and E) of the table top. Use three-inch screws to secure it.
3. Bring together both sets of legs with the stretchers (J) at the top and bottom of the leg assembly.  Connect the stretchers (J) centered on the crossbraces (H) at the top and bottom with dowels and wood glue.
4. With the stretcher (J) dowel joints still wet, use clamps to hold together the leg assembly as you attach the second “L” of the legs to the framing at the other end of the tile table top, using three-inch screws. Have a damp rag handy to wipe away any glue drips and squeeze out.  This can be a stressful part of the build.  Allow yourself the time and don’t rush – wood glue does not dry instantly.
5. Allow the wood glue to fully dry.

Once legs have been secured and fully dried, get help to flip the table over – it will be heavy!!!

Apply grout to the tabletop

Remove all the 1/4-in. spacers from between the tiles. Mix the grout in small batches to prevent it from hardening before you can spread it. Using a rubber tile float, work the grout into the joints, forcing it all the way to the bottom of each crevice.

Allow the grout to set for a few minutes, then wipe away excess from the tile surfaces with a damp sponge, rinsing frequently. Work in stages—let the grout firm up between passes so you don’t pull it out of the joints. Grout is very forgiving, so take your time.

Clean the tile haze

Once you have wiped away the excess grout, you will notice a buildup of grout powder drying on the tiles’ surfaces. Allow it to dry and become chalky. Then, with a clean, dry painter’s rag, rub away the haze.  You will have to do this several times until the haze fully disappears.  For this to work well, the rag must be clean at the start of each wipe down.  If haze is not fully cleaned off within 24 hours, it will cure and become permanent.  This step is crucial to make the tiles project look crisp and clean. I usually do a bunch of passes with a clean rag, then do one final pass the next day to ensure all the haze is cleaned off.

Apply grout sealer

Once the grout has fully cured, use a grout sealer to prevent dirt and stains from building up on the grout between the tiles. Use a small artist paintbrush or applicator to apply the grout sealer directly to the grout, being careful not to let it build up and dry on the tiles. Grout sealer will yellow over time and become noticeable on the edges of the tiles. It is good practice to reseal grout once every 12  to 18 months.

FAQ

Do I have to use mastic to set my tiles in place?

You will find a choice between thinset and mastic.  It really depends on how much wear and tear the tiles will see. Thinset is most often used for tile jobs such as floors, wet areas, or large tiles.  Mastic is best for small ceramic/porcelain wall tiles in dry/damp areas, such as backsplashes or tabletops.

Should a coffee table be taller or shorter than a couch?

For ease of reaching and placing things on a coffee table, it is best for the coffee table height to be about the same height as the seat on your couch, plus or minus an inch or two.

Can you attach tile directly to wood?

When attaching tile directly to wood, you must use a flexible adhesive.  Wood expands and contracts at a different rate than tile, which could, over time, create cracks and weakness in your tile work.  This is often circumvented by placing cement backer board between the tiles and wood.

What is the 2/3 rule for coffee tables?

When calculating how big your coffee table should be relative to your couch, the 2/3 rule applies. The rule says a coffee table’s length should be about two-thirds the length of the sofa.  This will make the coffee table feel proportionally appropriate to the couch and won’t block movement or overwhelm the space.

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