Major vs. Online and Regional Car Insurance: What’s the Difference? Pros and Cons

Every year, I embark on the hassle of getting fresh car insurance quotes, and every year, there is a new provider or two that I’ve never heard of. Sometimes their rates are low, but I have wondered, if I had to make a claim, would they be reliable? We asked some experts to find out, and their consensus was…“it depends.”

“You really can’t say in broad classifications that some types are better or worse,” says Melanie Musson, an auto insurance expert with AutoInsurance.org. “For example, you can’t say that online companies are better than local agencies, because it comes down to the individual companies and personal preference.”

However, there are plenty of nuances between the various types of insurers. Here’s more about those differences, plus the pros and cons between major, online and regional car insurance companies.

Major Insurance vs. Regional and Online Insurance Carriers… What’s the Difference?

Some insurance companies, like Farmers, State Farm and Allstate, are well-known national brands, which maintain brick-and-mortar offices staffed with local agents who sell their products exclusively.

Others, like Progressive, the General and Geico, solely sell policies online, through call centers and apps, and sometimes via independent insurance agents.

There are also smaller, regional insurance carriers, such as Eerie Insurance, Auto Owners and Amica, who sell primarily through independent agents.

Regardless of the type, any insurance company that is licensed in your state is held to the same standards, says Musson. So “personal preference will have a role in helping people decide if one of these is a better option than the others,” she says. “Some people don’t care if they ever have an agent they can call by name, and others would hate the idea of not having a local contact.”

Pros and Cons of Major Insurance Carriers

Major insurers maintain vast networks of agents, extensive claims departments and technology systems that make interactions easier for customers, like 24-hour claims reporting. They also tend to have strong financial ratings and diversified risk pools, meaning that if there’s a massive regional disaster, they have large customer bases elsewhere to help offset those losses.

“They also provide a brand name customers can trust and are available nationally, which means they are able to help customers all over the US, even if a customer moves states,” says Lauren McKenzie, a senior independent insurance agent with A Plus Insurance.

On the flip side, sometimes all of those brick-and-mortar locations and national advertising campaigns result in higher prices.

Pros and Cons of Online Insurance Carriers

Online companies tend to have lower overhead costs, which can mean lower premiums. “They don’t typically provide personalized service, though,” says Musson. “Depending on the company, you may have a hard time ever contacting an actual human to help you through a claims process.”

Pros and Cons of Smaller and Regional Insurance Carriers

Regional insurance companies sometimes offer lower premiums because they spend less on national advertising and their policies are tailored to your area. They are also often represented by agents who can quote multiple companies at once, so you can quickly compare a wide range of prices and policies.

Many also have excellent reviews for customer service, says Musson. “That’s their specialty. They know their demographic well and can provide coverage options that fit the region in ways a large company may not.”

On the downside, smaller carriers might not be as financially stable, and if you move to a new state, you might have to switch insurance companies.

Which Insurance Is Right for Me?

It depends. If you value personal interactions, you’ll want an agent with a local office, whether that’s an independent agent or one working solely with a major carrier. Conversely, if you like handling everything online, an online-only option might save you some money. Beyond cost, other factors to consider include coverage options, the company’s financial rating and customer reviews.

FAQ

Are regional car insurance companies financially safe/reliable?

Usually. Often, they carry reinsurance, which is insurance that covers themselves from major claims. To learn an insurance company’s financial stability ratings, check AM Best. “That can help you understand if a company is expected to remain financially stable and able to pay claims,” says Musson.

How do I check if a car insurance company is legitimate?

• Check with your state insurance department to make sure they’re licensed in your state.
• Read BBB reviews and JD Powers claims satisfaction surveys.
• Check their AM Best rating.

“These sites have all the important information about an insurance company, including financial strength, claims handling process and overall service,” says McKenzie.

Can I switch from a major insurer to a regional one mid-policy?

Yes, you can switch insurance providers at any time. A few companies charge small cancellation fees for dropping their coverage before the term is up. “Some companies may also ask for further documentation before cancelling, such as a new policy declaration showing you purchased insurance elsewhere, or a bill of sale if the vehicle is no longer owned,” says McKenzie.

About the Experts

• Melanie Musson is an auto insurance expert with AutoInsurance.org. She has been in the insurance industry for over 10 years and specializes in education and advocacy.
• Lauren McKenzie is a senior independent insurance agent with A Plus Insurance, which is licensed in 35 States.

Sources

• Jenna Bailey is founder and lead trial attorney at Bailey Law Firm.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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How To Build a Mini Greenhouse Using Recycled Windows

Test for lead

Wear safety glasses, gloves, and a respiratory mask throughout this process. When using old windows, it’s important to test for lead paint.  Test kits are available at most hardware stores and typically involve putting a sample in a vial and sending it in.

If your recycled windoss do test positive for lead, you can still use them. Just be sure to only work in a well-ventilated outdoor area and never sand or create dust while restoring the recycled windows.

Prep the windows

Lay down a plastic liner to catch debris. Remove all hardware (rope, handles, hinges) using pliers to pull stubborn staples or nails. Work gently with brass hardware to avoid stripping screws.

Using a putty knife, gently remove only loose, flaking paint—don’t force stuck chips. Never sand or scrape lead paint surfaces to keep particles from going airborne.

Fill cracks and split end grain with Bondo. Mix small batches for workability. Work the filler flush to the surface to minimize sanding. Once dry, carefully sand Bondo flush without disturbing the surrounding paint. Use a shop vac with a HEPA filter to contain the dust, then seal the vacuum bag and filter together and dispose of them.

Reglaze

If the window glaze has dried, cracked, or fallen out, reglaze the windows. Start by cleaning out and removing any loose pieces. Knead the glazing compound until soft and pliable, then roll it into 1/2-in. thick ropes, three to six inches long. Press the glaze along the glass edge at an angle using a putty knife. Smooth with your finger, then finish with the putty knife for a clean seal.

Prime and Paint

Apply two to three coats of triple-thick primer to both sides. This primer seals cracked, weathered and peeling surfaces, and allows for the natural expansion and contraction of window frames that will live in the elements. Consider tinting the primer toward your topcoat color (we tinted our primer gray for a black topcoat). Prime over the window glaze to help it harden and adhere.

Once the primer is dry, apply two to three coats of exterior-grade paint to all the sides of the window frames.

Build the Raised Bed

Assemble the side panels

To make the garden bed of the mini greenhouse, build four separate side panels (two long and two short). Each side panel is constructed from three side pieces (A or B) stacked on top of each other and held together with battens (C) on both ends and a central batten (D) in the middle.

Use wood glue and brad nails to pin the battens (C) to the back of the side pieces (A or B), then add a few deck screws after double-checking that everything is square.

Connect the sides

Using three-inch deck screws, attach the short side panels to the long side panels by drilling through the short side pieces (B) and the battens (C) on each side into the edge of the long side panel’s end batten (C). Don’t worry about the screw holes on the outside of the raised box, as they won’t be visible once the corner trim (K) is applied. Reinforce the connection by adding three 3-in. x 3-in. angle brackets to the inside of each joint. Attach two of them two inches from the top and bottom, and one centered on each corner.

Build the top cap

Before installing the top cap pieces (F + G), install the mitered gussets (E) at each corner of the raised bed to hold the sides square. Attach these with wood glue and brad nails, toenailing them from inside the box

Secure the black-painted mitered top cap pieces (F + G) to the top side pieces (A + B) using countersunk three-inch screws. Be sure to leave a 2-5/8-in. overhang around the outside perimeter of the raised bed box. If your miters are opening up or not aligning top to bottom, don’t hesitate to stick a screw in the end to hold them in place. There’ll be plenty of wood filling and touch-up later.

After that, screw a layer of varnished cedar stepback pieces (H + J) to the top cap (F + G), flush to the inside edge. This layer is purely aesthetic and breaks up the painted black top cap (F + G) and window framing we’re moving on to next.

Make the corner trim

Using 1-1/2-in brad nails and construction adhesive, nail together the eight corner trim pieces (K) to create four “L” brackets to cover the visible screw holes on the sides (A + B) of the raised bed.

Attach the corner trim “L” brackets to the raised bed sides (A + B) using the same construction adhesive and brad nails as before.
These are purely aesthetic and can be installed at any downtime during the build.

With this step, you have completed the raised bed portion of the mini greenhouse.  From here, you will strategically build up the top greenhouse section, which will support the windows.

Construct the Greenhouse Top

Build the greenhouse’s peak

As stated in the introduction, the size of the recycled windows determines many greenhouse specifications, including the height of the uprights (L) and the width of the center beam (M).

Install the hinges on the top edge of the recycled windows and play around with upright (L) heights until you settle on one where the pivot point of the window hinge makes the bottom edge of the window frame land centered on a 2×4 placed on top of the long stepback (H).

When your upright (L) height has been determined, toe screw the uprights flush to the inside edge and centered on top of the short stepback pieces (J). Then, attach the center beam (M) to the top of the installed uprights (L).

Note: The toe screws between the uprights (L) and stepbacks (J) are temporary, as we are building our greenhouse indoors and moving it outdoors in two pieces.

Build the bottom frame

Because our greenhouse will be moved outside in two pieces we need to create a bottom frame for the greenhouse made out of the painted sill pieces (N + P). Notch the two short sill pieces (P) around the uprights (L) using a jigsaw. Secure the sill pieces (N + P) to one another and the uprights (L) using screws and construction adhesive. Be sure to remove the toe screws between the uprights (L) and the stepback layer (J) before joining these pieces together.

Install a few screws between the stepback (H + J) and sill (N + P) layers to hold the greenhouse frame in place, but don’t attach them permanently until the backyard installation.

Install the windows

Having known the width of my windows from the onset, I designed the greenhouse to have 2×4 mullions between each window frame with 1/4-in. gaps between each to give the windows room to easily open and close. Not to sound like a broken record, but another way that the size of the windows determines nearly every dimension of this project.

Start installing the windows by surface mounting the second leaf of the window hinges to the top of the center beam (M) using the included hinge hardware. Start in the middle, centering the first window on the beam (M), and work your way to the outside windows, ensuring your hinges are aligned so your windows open and close smoothly and square.

Install the mullions

The mullions (Q) that framed out our greenhouse windows took the most machining (and finishing, as there are four painted and four clear-coated) of any other part on the build (see fig. C). The mullion’s purpose is to follow the same slope as the windows and add support to the structure, and give use something to attach the cam lifts to later.

Determine the top and bottom angles for your mullions (Q), ours were 41.5° at the bottom and 48.5° at the top, then cut off the point at the top so that the mullion doesn’t protrude past the top of the center beam (M).

Secure the mullions to the center beam (M) and sills (N + P) using construction adhesive and screws. Leave around a 1/4-in. gap between the edges of the mullions and the sides of the window frames.

Add window stops

Add 2×2 stops (R) between the mullions (Q) along the bottom of the window openings. Place them so they hold the bottom edge of the window frame 1/4- off the top of the sill (N). Secure the stops (R) to the long sills (N) using construction adhesive and 2-1/2-in. screws.

Install the polycarbonate ends

Use cardboard to create a template for the polycarbonate ends. You can make a template for one single piece on each end, but I suggest two triangles with a seam in the middle to allow for expansion and contraction. Trace the cardboard template onto an 1/4-in. polycarbonate sheet and cut out the triangles using a circular saw outfitted with a plastics blade.

Glue and screw the painted 2×2 plex supports (S + T) to the inside of the outermost mullions (Q) and sill (P) on the inside of each end triangle.

Install the polycarbonate ends by pre-drilling oversized holes along the bottom and sloped edges of the polycarbonate, and screwing them loosely to the supports to allow for expansion and contraction.

Then cut and install the center plex supports (U), toenailing them to the painted 2×2 plex supports (S + T) and sandwiching the unsupported polycarbonate seams between the center plex supports (U) and uprights behind them.

Finishing touches

To wrap up the project:

• Use wood filler to fill any holes from nails or screw heads in the painted pieces. Then sand or wipe back the filler to leave a smooth surface and touch up the paint at these locations.
• Apply rubber or felt bumpers to the edges where the window frames contact the stops (R). During the hot summer months, this keeps the painted surfaces from sticking together.
• Attach lift supports that stretch between the window frames and mullions (Q) in order to keep the windows from dropping while working in the greenhouse.
• Add cabinet handles centered at the bottom of the window frame for easy access.
• Add small end caps (V) to flush out the center beam (M) with the outside of the mullions (Q) and plex support pieces (S, T, U). This can be avoided by using a longer 99-inch 2×4 as the center beam (M).

Outdoor installation

This mini greenhouse was designed to be put together in two pieces.  The top section for the windows and the bottom raised bed.

When determining the final resting place for your mini greenhouse, look for a level area where water drains freely. Attach a plastic liner as a barrier to the inside of the raised bed before filling the greenhouse with soil.

Then line up and secure the bottom sills (N + P) on the top to the stepbacks (J + H) on the bed using construction adhesive and 2-1/2-inch screws, and plant!

FAQ

How long does it take for window glaze to dry?

Traditional window glaze is oil-based and requires a much longer drying time –14 days to set up and up to 30 – 60 days to fully cure and harden.  Latex window glaze will dry and cure in about three days.

What are the best plant choices for a mini greenhouse?

Consider two things when selecting plants to grow in a greenhouse: use plants that are appropriate for your weather zone or region, and choose plants that will not outgrow the height of your greenhouse. Read the label on a plant at your local nursery to help guide you with all the above.

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These Shape-Shifting Winter Tires Could Make Roads Last Twice as Long

Icy roads, strong winds and blinding snow all contribute to harrowing winter driving conditions that call for special tires. One modification to conventional snow tires that greatly improves safety is the addition of small metal spikes, called studs, embedded in the rubber. They dig into icy roads and greatly improve traction, but they aren’t so great for the roads themselves.

A 2019 study conducted by the Alaska Department of Transportation found that studded tires reduced the lifespan of asphalt road surfaces from 15 years to 6 to 8 years while causing 287 percent more rutting than regular tires, all of which cost taxpayers over $200 million over a 20-year period. Drivers could reduce this damage by changing their studded tires to regular ones when the roads aren’t icy, but most just leave the studded tires on all winter.

In response to this problem, Finnish manufacturer Nokian has introduced a line of winter tires — the Hakkapeliitta 01 — with retractable studs. With expert help, this article explains how winter tires work and Nokian’s innovation.

What Are Winter Tires?

Winter tires have several features that distinguish them from standard all-weather tires and allow them to grip better on snowy and icy surfaces. One is a different kind of rubber. According to driving instructor Lucas Waldenbäck, winter tires are made from a softer rubber compound that stays flexible when temperatures drop below 45 degrees F (7 C). “This flexibility,” says Waldenbäck, “allows them to maintain grip even when the road surface is extremely cold.”

Winter tires also have deeper treads, and on the treads are thousands of tiny grooves called sipes. “These small cuts in the tread help the tire bite into the snow and channel away slush and water, improving traction and braking performance,” says Waldenbäck.

Studs are an additional feature added to some tires. They stick out 1/32 to 1/16 inches (1 to 1.5 mm) from the tire for extra traction. When these are included on a winter tire, there are anywhere from 80 to 120 of them.

Why They’re Bad for Roads

In terms of road impact, winter tires are not harmful by themselves. However, studded tires can gradually wear down road surfaces. “This is why,” says Waldenbäck, “some regions restrict or regulate the use of studded tires.”

How Nokian Tires Adapt

The studs in the Nokian Hakkapeliitta 01 are 0.41 inches (10. 5 mm) long, and as Austin Irwin describes in Car and Driver Magazine, they are embedded in three different layers of rubber. At the base is a 0.1-inch (2.5 mm) layer of a reactive compound that hardens at sub-zero temperatures to support the studs, but softens as the temperature warms to allow the studs to retract. Nokian closely guards the chemistry of this base compound.

On top of that is a 0.4-inch (1 mm) locking layer that controls stud movement, and on the outside is a fixative that keeps the system aligned. The studs behave differently across the tread. “The studs near the center are oriented specifically to improve traction under acceleration and braking,” explains Irwin. “Toward the shoulders, the studs are rotated 180 degrees, which Nokian claims offers better grip for steering and cornering.”

Are They Still Effective?

Good question. The tires have been tested by reviewers from several publications, including Car and Driver and Road & Track, but those reviewers traveled to Finland in the winter of 2026 and conducted the tests on icy surfaces. Their reviews have been positive, but reviews conducted in warmer weather are not yet available at the time of publication. The tires aren’t due for release until the autumn of 2026, so there’s a whole summer to conduct tests on bare roads. Check back in the fall.

Tools For Winter Driving

Snow tires are essential for safe winter driving in regions with harsh weather, but they aren’t the only tools drivers need. Here’s Waldenbäck’s list:

• Windshield scraper and snow brush;
• Tire pressure gauge so you can keep you’re tires inflated to the proper pressure. Tires tend to lose pressure in the cold and perform poorly;
• Traction aid, such as sand, cat litter or a traction mat;
• Emergency kit containing gloves, a flashlight, blankets, and water.

FAQ

When are winter tires needed?

“A good rule of thumb,” says Waldenbäck, “is to install winter tires when the temperature is consistently below 45 degrees F (7 C).” That’s when the rubber in standard tires begins to harden, which reduces grip. It’s time to take them off when the temperature consistently rises above this threshold.

When should you put winter tires on your car?

That depends on where you live. In southern regions, you probably don’t need them at all, but in regions that experience harsher winters, the time to put them on is typically late autumn, before the first major snow or ice arrives. “Waiting until the roads are already icy reduces their safety benefit,” warns Waldenbäck.

Conversely, the time to take them off is typically early spring, when the temperature rises above the 45-degree F threshold. “Driving winter tires in warm weather causes them to wear out faster, because the soft rubber compound is designed for cold conditions.”

About the Expert

• Lucas Waldenbäck is the co-founder of Zutobi, an online driver’s education platform designed to help users learn safe driving practices and pass their DMV test.

Source

• Car and Driver: Nokian’s New Studded Winter Tire Can Do Something Amazing; (2026)

Related

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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Sticking With Stick Shift: The Auto Brands Still Making Manual Cars in 2026

When my father was learning how to drive, manual cars were very common. Learning how to drive stick shift was a crucial life skill. By the time I was learning how to drive, however, that had changed completely. Reluctant to run the risk of me absolutely destroying the clutch in his Land Rover, my dad looked at car rental companies to see if he could find something I’d be able to learn on.

After seeing that the only option available was a very pricey Ferrari, he decided I would learn how to drive automatic first, and then he’d let me try out the Land Rover once I had the rest of the driving basics down. If you’re a car enthusiast or grew up with a parent who was one, you might be curious about what manual cars are still on the market.

What Is a Manual Car?

The key difference between manual or stick shift cars and automatic cars is how the gears change. In an automatic vehicle, the gears change, well, automatically. You don’t have to do anything. In a manual or stick shift vehicle, you do have to handle those changes. You’ll see a third pedal on the floor, the clutch, that you’ll have to depress when changing gears.

Manual cars used to be the standard; if you didn’t know how to drive a stick shift, you were typically out of luck. But automatic vehicles have become the norm in recent years, and knowing how to drive a stick shift is no longer a skill you have to have in order to get your license.

Which Companies Still Make Manual Cars?

While there are plenty of luxury and supercar makers that offer manual cars, the average driver likely isn’t looking to purchase one of those. Shopping around for a manual car is trickier than it used to be, but there are still several auto companies that are making new vehicles today. According to Road and Track, as of 2026, you’ve got options from several different companies.

Subaru

Subaru is offering two manual vehicles in 2026, the BRZ and WRX.

Porsche

If you want a 2026 manual Porsche, the 911 is your best bet.

Mazda

Mazda has two 2026 manual offerings, the MX-5 Miata and the Mazda 3

BMW

BMW drivers have four 2026 manual options, the M2, M3, M4, and Z4.

Honda

Honda Civic lovers, you’re in luck. The 2026 Civic Type R and Civic Si are both manual.

Cadillac

Both the 2026 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing and CT5-V Blackwing are manual.

Nissan

Nissan only has one 2026 manual offering, the Nissan Z.

Hyundai

Similar to Nissan, Hyundai has only one 2026 manual vehicle, the Elantra N.

Toyota

In 2026, Toyota is offering four manual vehicles: the GR Corolla, Tacoma, GR86, and GR Supra.

Lotus

If you’re set on a Lotus, the 2026 Emira is manual.

Acura

Acura fans; you can pick from two manual vehicles, the 2026 Integra and Integra Type S.

Ford

For 2026, you can get both the Mustang and the Bronco as manual cars.

Volkswagen

Volkswagen’s 2026 Jetta GLI comes in manual.

Jeep

The 2026 Jeep Wrangler is a manual.

Source

The Best Cars That Still Offer a Manual Transmission in 2026, Road and Track, 2026.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

The post Sticking With Stick Shift: The Auto Brands Still Making Manual Cars in 2026 appeared first on Family Handyman.

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Family Handyman’s One-Sheet Plywood Challenge

About the Contest

The contest is simple: Grab a single sheet of plywood and build something amazing — furniture, art, a kids’ toy, whatever inspires you. Then submit your photos and/or video through the entry form at the bottom of this page. Our judges, including celebrity guests Nick Offerman and Lee Buchanan, will pick the winners.

What to Build▶

We're looking for household projects—think chairs, tables, bookshelves, desks, benches, storage cabinets, and the like. Entries may be functional or purely artistic.

Entry Requirements▶

Entrants must construct a household project from a single 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood. The contest is skill-based, and winners will be selected based on craftsmanship, creativity, and effective use of materials.

A complete submission must include:

• One or more photos of your completed project 
• At least one photo of you with your finished project
• A cut list showing the dimensions of each component
• A sketch or diagram illustrating how all parts nest within a standard 4×8 sheet of plywood
• Optional: Videos documenting the build process are encouraged but not required.

What's Allowed?▶

• Materials: Your project must be constructed from a single 4×8-foot sheet of plywood or MDF of one thickness (combining materials from multiple sheets is not permitted). All components of the project must fit within a standard 4x8 footprint.
• Tools: Use whatever tools you have available to build your design. CNC machines are welcome.
• Fasteners & Joinery: All fasteners, specialty furniture hardware and adhesives are permitted.
• Finishes: Finishing products such as paint, stain, sealers, wood filler, etc. are all permitted. Finishing your project is encouraged but not required.

Prizes

🥇 1st Place: $2,500 and a trip to Family Handyman’s Milwaukee studio

🥈 2nd Place: $1,500 · 🥉 3rd Place: $1,000

Projects for Inspiration

How to Make a Coffee Table Out of 1 Sheet of Plywood

COMING SOON

COMING SOON

COMING SOON

"To give your piece a professional look, learn how to hide nails and sink screws below the surface. This one little thing will make any piece of wood look better. "

Carmen De La Paz

Supervising Project Editor

Plywood Playbook

6 Ways To Get Plywood Home Without a Pickup Truck

6 Ways to Tell If Your Plywood Is Subpar

12 Genius Ways to Use Plywood That You Never Thought of Before

Tips for Using Every Square Inch of Plywood

What Are the Different Types of Plywood Grades?

How to Cut Plywood With a Circular Saw

7 Tips for Cutting Curves in Wood

OSB vs. Plywood: Which Is Better?

"Sandpaper can and should be your best friend. Don't fight it. You want people to enjoy your work not, get splinters from it!"

Carmen De La Paz

Supervising Project Editor

Essential Tools

CRAFTSMAN V20 Cordless Pin NailerLowe's$179

DeWalt Cordless Fixed Base Compact RouterHome Depot$249

Shank Carbide Tipped Router BitHome Depot$9.95

Spring-Action Nail Set/Center PunchRockler$16.99

Fastcap Babe Bot Glue BottleAcme Tools$5.99

Cordless TrackSaw KitAcme Tools$679

"You can hide bad plywood with good joinery, but you can't hide bad joinery with good plywood."

Ethan O'Donnell

Deputy Editor

Submit Your Project

The post Family Handyman’s One-Sheet Plywood Challenge appeared first on Family Handyman.

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Can You Clean Your Cell Phone Screen With Glass Cleaner?

Our smartphone screens look like glass, but when it comes to cleaning them, glass cleaners shouldn’t be our go-to method. That’s because phones have specialized coatings that traditional cleaners can damage.

“The sneaky part is that it is invisible,” says Fergal Glynn of Mindgard. “You won’t even know that it was there, until it is gone and your screen is left permanently dull and smeared.”

Here’s more about the harmful effects of glass cleaner on smartphone screens, plus tips on how to clean your phone without damaging it.

Can You Use Glass Cleaner to Clean Your Cell Phone Screen?

It’s not a good idea. Glass cleaner contains either ammonia or high concentrations of alcohol, both of which can damage your smartphone’s protective coatings and seep into ports, causing internal damage.

Why Does Glass Cleaner Damage Cell Phone Screens?

It strips away anti-glare and oleophobic coatings that prevent fingerprints and smudges from sticking. “Once they’re gone, your screen actually gets dirtier faster and becomes harder to clean,” says Marcos De Andrade of Green Planet Cleaning Services.

That also makes it easier for moisture to seep into ports and speakers, potentially causing corrosion, muffled sound or charging issues, says Emily Stallings of Casely. “Wiping with glass cleaner, especially with rough materials, can also create micro-scratches and reduce touch sensitivity over time,” she says.

What Products Around the Home Can You Use to Clean Your Cell Phone Screen?

For everyday cleaning, use a dry microfiber cloth or one dampened with distilled water. “The water being distilled is the most important factor,” says Glynn. “Tap water has minerals which leave micro-deposits with repeated use.”

You can also buy screen-safe wipes and sprays. Look for products labeled as being safe for smartphones, tablets and electronics. “But know that ‘screen-safe’ labels are not regulated by any authority, so look for pH-neutral formulas, as they are a better indication over any marketing language,” he says.

What is the Proper Way to Clean a Cell Phone Screen?

• Turn off your phone and unplug any cables.
• Remove the case and wash it separately with soap and water. “Case hygiene matters too, as dirt trapped under the case can scratch your phone,” says Stallings.
• Gently wipe away screen smudges with a microfiber cloth, using a circular motion. “Don’t use pressure, as it is bad for your screen,” says Glynn. “People sometimes wipe too hard, thinking that effort equals cleanliness, but gentle and consistent work is much better.”
• Avoid wiping it with abrasive materials, like paper towels and tissues, which can leave micro-scratches.
• For an extra clean, use distilled water. Only apply it to the cloth, not directly onto the phone.
• Pay special attention around the edges and ports to prevent liquid from seeping inside.
• Allow the device to air-dry completely before turning it back on or putting it in the case.

“Remember, water resistance does not protect against cleaning sprays, abrasive wipes or household cleaners; and pressing too hard on the edges can damage touch sensitivity,” says Stallings. She also recommends using a screen protector to prevent scratches and wear.

What if I’ve Been Cleaning My Screen with Glass Cleaner?

If you’ve only used glass cleaner on your phone a few times, it’s probably not damaged yet. But if your screen feels different from how it used to or is always greasy, that probably means the coatings have been compromised. “The screen will still function fine, but it will smudge more easily,” says Andrade.

First, try a matte screen protector as an affordable workaround. However, if it has cosmetic damage that you can’t live with, or if there is functional damage, such as reduced touch sensitivity or liquid in the ports, your phone could require professional repair.

About the Experts

• Emily Stallings is co-founder of Casely, an online retailer specializing in phone cases, power pods and accessories, with a focus on self-expression and style.
• Fergal Glynn is chief marketing officer and AI security advocate at Mindgard, an AI consulting and security company.
• Marcos De Andrade is founder of Green Planet Cleaning Services, an eco-luxury residential and commercial cleaning company in Marin County, California.

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• This Is How Often You Should Restart Your Phone

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OSB Makes Cool Plywood Furniture — This Coffee Table’s Proof

Trim the top of the sheet

Use a track saw to trim the top 20-3/4-in. off the 4×8 sheet. Set it aside for the cutting of the corbel template and all the corbels (A).

Rip strips out of the rest of the sheet

Cut 16 strips of plywood measuring 2-1/2-in. wide from the remaining large piece of plywood. Ensure that the first strip is cut slightly wider, then cut it down to 2-1/2-in. so the painted factory edge or OSB tongue-and-groove can be removed.

Cut the stripes

On the miter saw, cut the 16 strips into the legs (B), top pieces (C), and spacers (D).

For 14 of the strips, make a single cut to separate the leg from the top piece. Ensure that the factory edge is positioned at the bottom of each leg (B) if your sheet is undersized like mine.

The last two strips will get cut into the 48 spacers.

Make the corbel template

Cut a 10-in. x 19-in. square out of the portion of the 4×8 sheet you initially cut off with the track saw.

Draw the corbel (A) template onto the sheet as in Fig. C above. Drawing a smooth arch is the most challenging part of this process. This can be accomplished by hammering a few nails at the endpoints and peak of the two arches, and bending a metal ruler along these points and tracing it.

After the corbel (A) is drawn, cut it out using a band saw or jigsaw. Give the edges a quick sand to ensure they are smooth.

Make the corbels

Trace and rough cut the last 11 corbels (A) out of the remainder of the sheet. Make them slightly larger than the template to ensure that, after routing, all of them will be nearly identical.

Use strong two-sided carpet tape or a couple of screws to secure the template on top of a rough-cut corbel (A). Then, using a router table fitted with a straight-cut router bit with a bearing at the bottom, rout the corbel (A) by running the bearing along the edge of the template, thereby replicating the template.

Repeat this process until you have 12 matching corbels.

Drill holes for the threaded rod

With all the pieces cut and shaped, it’s now time to drill 7/16-in. holes for the 3-8-in. threaded rod that will hold the coffee table together.

At the bottom of the four outside-facing legs (B) and at all four hole locations, on the two outside-facing top pieces (C), drill 1/2 inch deep holes with a 1-1/8-in. Forstner bit to countersink the nuts and washers on the ends of the threaded rod.

Next, construct a simple jig and clamp it to the drill press to center the 7/16-inch holes on the spacers (D). Using the same jig and setup, drill holes at the ends of each leg (B) and corbel (A).

Then, make another jig to drill the two sets of holes on the top pieces (C): one pair centered 3-3/4 inches from each end and another 11-1/4-in.

Set up the drill press carefully to ensure that the holes are drilled straight, centered, and aligned on all the pieces.

Sand the components smooth

After what fell like hours drilling holes at the drill press, it’s time to sand. Unfortunately, this is another long process. Sand and break the edges of six sides of every piece with 150-grit sandpaper. For those using OSB like me, take extra care to get the rough side as smooth as possible. Use whatever type of sander you have at your disposal, or a combination of several. Ultimately, I used a random orbital sander for most of the OSB, and a belt sander followed by a random orbital sander for the rough sides.

Apply polyurethane

Apply at least two coats of wipe-on poly to all six sides of every top piece (C), leg (B), corbel (A), and spacer (D). Give ample drying time and sand with 220-grit sandpaper between each coat. Besides providing some protection for the pieces, the poly also helps to bring out the multitude of colors of the OSB.

[Please insert image “FMH26_OSB_Plywood_Coffee_Table_Apply_Polyurethane_MD_P2_02_09_36b.jpg” here.]

Assemble the table

Keeping the pieces in order is important, so attach the 48 spacers (D) using CA glue and 1-1/4-in. brad nails to the top pieces (C), legs (B) and corbels (A) that they will be assembled next to. Ensure that the spacer’s edges and 7/16-in. holes align with the piece to which it is attached.

After placing the table top pieces (C) face down on your bench, arrange the rest of the pieces in order. Make sure the outer legs (B) and top pieces (C) with countersunk 1-1/8-in. holes face outward.

When all the top pieces (C), legs (B), and corbels (A) are aligned at one end, thread the threaded rod through the hole in the top of the legs (B) and the outermost hole in the top pieces (C) with a nylon lock nut and washer tightened on one end. Add the washer and loosely tighten down the nut on the other side so there is still play in the rod.

Then, loosely thread the rods at the bottom of the legs (B), and another where the inner holes on the top pieces (C) align with the top hole of the corbels (A). And, thread the three rods on the other side.

Start tightening each rod little by little with a ratchet in one hand and an open-ended wrench in the other, stopping occasionally to ensure that the pieces are lined up. Use clamps and a mallet to move the stubborn pieces into alignment.

After you have tightened the threaded rod until you feel some resistance, but not so hard that the washer digs into the OSB, you can trim the threaded rod flush with the ends of the nuts using a hacksaw and file them smooth if necessary.

FAQ

How to finish OSB furniture?

To properly finish OSB furniture, seal its porous surface with two or more coats of polyurethane, epoxy resin, or, if painting, a primer followed by your chosen paint, sanding between coats with 220 grit sandpaper.

What lengths do threaded rods come in?

In general, threaded rods are available in 3, 6, 10, and 12-foot lengths, and can be cut to your specifications.

Are there different grades of OSB?

Yes, there are four OSB grades: OSB1, OSB2, OSB3 and OSB4 (though sometimes seen as OSB/1, OSB/2 etc.).

• OSB1 is suitable for dry conditions and interior general-purpose applications (including furniture).
• OSB2 is suitable for dry conditions and general interior use, but is also load-bearing.
• OSB3 is the most common grade used in the construction industry, a load-bearing board suitable for use in damp, humid conditions.
• OSB4 are a heavy-duty load-bearing board suitable for damp and humid conditions.

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