This Genius New Gadget Uses Your Patio Lights to Repel Mosquitoes

Mosquitoes have always loved me, although the feeling is certainly not mutual. Instead of looking forward to outdoor gatherings each summer, I’ve grown to dread them because of the itchy, angry welts those annoying buzzers leave on my arms and legs as tokens of their “affection.”

Citronella candles and insect repellent spray work, but I’m always up for improving my line of defense. So when I heard that Tiki Brand released a new mosquito repellent, I found myself looking forward to the summer—and a showdown with my nemeses. Here’s everything you need to know about the BiteFighter Plug & Repel.

VIA MERCHANT

Tiki Brand BiteFighter Plug & Repel

This handy mosquito repellent plugs directly into your outdoor string lights for pest-free protection.

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What is the Tiki Brand BiteFighter Plug & Repel?

The name is spot on: The Tiki Brand BiteFighter Plug & Repel is an outdoor plug-in mosquito repellent. This set-it-and-forget-it device won’t get in the way of any backyard party aesthetic you’re going for; in fact, it might just enhance it.

If you’ve got string lights in your yard, you’ll definitely want to get this nifty device. The concept is genius: Just unscrew a single bulb from your string lights and replace it with the BiteFighter. The discreet bulb creates an odor-free zone (up to 110 square feet) that repels mosquitoes. The plug-in pod lasts 12 hours, although there are also 48-hour replacement pods available for purchase separately. Your invited guests won’t even notice it, but your uninvited guests certainly will get the hint that they should buzz off.

The BiteFighter Plug & Repel is compatible with 120Vac string lights with 6W bulbs and E26 sockets. The manufacturer recommends hanging the lights anywhere you want mosquito protection, but no higher than 10 feet above the ground. Then, activate the repellent for 45 minutes to create a no-mosquito zone in your yard.

Editor’s note: Deputy Editor Katie Bandurski has the BiteFighter Plug & Repel and is eager to test it out when mosquito season arrives. We’ll update this page with an honest review in the near future, including how it compares to devices like Thermacell.

Where to Buy

Some more bad news for mosquitoes: Not only is the Tiki Brand BiteFighter Plug & Repel available for purchase on the Tiki Brand site, but it’s also sold at Lowe’s, Target and Amazon.

Now, this handy little gadget will attach easily right to your existing string lights, but if you’re in the market for an additional strand, you might also consider the BiteFighter Mosquito Repellent LED String Lights, which come with three refillable pods and are ready to illuminate your next outdoor gathering. Bring on the warm weather!

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Are You Throwing Away Your Fireplace Ash? Here’s Why You Shouldn’t

Fireplace ash may seem less threatening than burning wood, but it can still pose a serious fire risk. So even if you want to stockpile your own fireplace ash to use it later, you still have to be careful about where and how you store it.

“Ash is seemingly harmless and cold before it actually is,” Lo Choe, Licensed Fire Safety Contractor and Owner of Aura Fire Safety, says, making proper storage especially important. Homeowners who use a fireplace or wood stove need to store and dispose of ash safely. A cord of wood produces enough ash to fill a 5-gallon bucket, so it’s a constant household chore that deserves your full attention. Ahead, learn how to safely store fireplace ash (and know what NOT to do) with help from Choe.

Household Uses for Fireplace Ash

Fireplace ash has several practical uses around the house. These include:

Silver polish

Mix ash with water to form a thick paste, then apply in a circular motion with a soft cloth to polish tarnished silver. Wear gloves and buff with a clean cloth when finished.

Deodorizer

Sprinkle ash after each use in an outhouse to keep odors down. Place a bowl of ashes in a musty room or one that contains a litter box to absorb unwanted smells.

Garden helper

Sprinkle some ash around potash-loving plants like tomatoes and fruit trees. It can also act as a pest deterrent for slugs and crawling bugs as well.

Compost pile ingredient

Ash can act as a great pH balancer in compost while also adding beneficial minerals like potassium, calcium and magnesium.

Natural soap

Use boiling water and ash to create a lye extract, then cook with fat to create a liquid soap through a multi-day process.

Gravel driveway maintenance

Spread thin layers of ash across gravel driveways to keep down weeds. When wet, ash mixes with gravel and dries to a harder consistency, so can also be used to fill potholes.

Soil neutralizer

Mix ash with garden or lawn soil to raise pH in acidic soil.

De-icer

Ash can increase traction on icy walkways and can increase melting speeds.

Glass cleaner

Dip a damp paper towel in fine ash to clean glass. This is a great way to clean glass doors on wood stoves.

Why Proper Ash Storage Matters

Proper storage is important to prevent fire risks, but also lung and skin exposure. While not considered toxic, ash contains crystalline silica, which can cause respiratory issues if inhaled. It’s also very caustic when mixed with liquid, like water or sweat, which can burn exposed skin.

Can Storing Ash Be a Fire Risk?

If stored improperly, the risk is real. Here’s why:

Hidden embers

Even fireplace ash that appears cool can contain smoldering embers that will reignite under the right conditions. “The ash may appear lifeless, but it’s merely insulated and yearning for oxygen,” Choe says.

Insulating ash

Cooled ash will also insulate interior embers, keeping them hot for several days, even in storage. “In some cases, I’ve seen ember-size pieces of coal remain over 400 degrees Fahrenheit while nestled in gray ash several inches deep,” Choe says.

Extended cooling time

Stored ash will need a few days to fully cool and no longer pose a fire risk. “Fireplace ash has the potential to hold live embers between 24 to 72 hours depending on variables,” Choe says.

Improper storage

Ash stored in a flammable container or on combustible surfaces can ignite and cause a fire.

How to Store Fireplace Ash Safely

Always store fireplace ash in a metal container with a close-fitting lid. “No plastic bags or sheet liners,” Choe says. Keep this container on a non-combustible surface like concrete, brick or stone, at least 10 feet away from any flammable materials, decks or fences.

Let ash have time and space to cool down safely. “Allow it to cool for a full 72 hours before placing it in the trash, even if it feels cool after 12 hours,” Choe says. “For added safety, you can spray down the ash with water before placing the lid on.”

What NOT to Do

Avoid these storage and disposal practices to keep your home safe.

• Never store ash in an open container to prevent accidental fires if knocked over.
• “Never vacuum fireplace ash from your fireplace into a household vacuum,” Choe says. “Fine particles can slip through the filters and cause combustion within the vacuum itself.”
• Never dispose of ash in a trash bag with other household trash. Keep it in its own bag when cooled.
• “Never leave your ashes in a pile on your wooden front porch or next to dry leaves in your yard,” Choe says.
• Never dispose of ash on a windy day, as this can breathe new life into smoldering embers.
• Never store ash near flammable items like newspapers, curtains or carpet.

About the Expert

Lo Choe is a Licensed Fire Safety Contractor and Owner of Aura Fire Safety in the San Francisco Bay Area. Choe is a licensed home systems professional with two state property safety certifications (C-16 and C-10).

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• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling

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From Fallen Branches to Functional Fencing: Make a DIY Dead Hedge

When my neighbor invited me to peek at the twiggy structure taking shape in her yard, I was intrigued. She was building a dead hedge to create a sustainable, wildlife-friendly divider separating her lawn from a planned wildflower meadow.

With all the extreme weather we’ve been experiencing lately, constructing one of these DIY-friendly barriers is an eco-conscious way to turn fallen branches and woody debris into something both practical and attractive.

I spoke to a professional horticulturist to get tips on building a dead hedge that’s long-lasting, climate-appropriate and beneficial for wildlife.

What Is a Dead Hedge?

A dead hedge is a natural barrier made by loosely stacking and weaving branches, twigs and plant debris between two rows of stakes. It’s a simple way to reuse yard waste while creating privacy, habitat and structure.

Brushwood barriers have been used across Europe for centuries to mark boundaries and protect woodland. In the 1980s, the concept was formalized as the “Benjes hedge,” named after German landscape gardeners Hermann and Heinrich Benjes, who promoted it as a way to reuse pruning waste while encouraging natural regeneration.

Deryn Davidson, the Sustainable Landscape State Specialist for Colorado State University Extension, first encountered dead hedges during an internship at Kew Gardens in London.

“I think dead hedges are more common in that part of the world, but that’s not to say that they can’t be built in the US, and that people don’t use them over here,” she says. “In fact, I’ve seen them done here in a variety of different ways, and with inventive types of regional flair, which is cool.”

Why You Should Recycle Your Branches to Make a Dead Hedge

At first glance, a dead hedge simply tidies up yard waste. But its benefits go much further. Davidson describes them as “stacking functions.”

• Eco-friendly: It reuses branches in your yard instead of sending them to landfill or burning them.
• Boosts biodiversity: Decomposing wood supports insects known as detritivores, which in turn feed birds and small mammals. The dense layers also provide wildlife shelter.
• Improves soil: As the organic materials break down, they enrich the soil beneath.
• Provides privacy and wind protection: The hedge forms a natural screen when densely layered.
• Supports climbers: It can double as a trellis for squash, beans or flowering vines.
• Low-to-no-cost: Aside from stakes and basic tools, building a dead hedge primarily costs your time.
• Erosion control: “If placed strategically on the contour line, then anything that might erode is going to stop at the fence,” Davidson says. Just ensure your dead hedge is sturdy if you’re relying on it for that purpose.

How to Build a Dead Hedge

Dead hedges are simple to construct. A mallet, pruning shears, sturdy stakes, a pile of branches, and a creative eye are usually enough.

1. Choose the Right Location

Dead hedge placement depends on what functions you want it to have and your yard conditions. It might mark a property line, divide garden zones, create privacy or serve as a wildlife corridor.

In wildfire-prone areas, placement is even more important. “It doesn’t mean you can’t have them, but be much more thoughtful about where it is in relation to other structures,” Davidson says.

2. Set the Posts

Drive stakes into the ground in two parallel rows, spacing them about 3 to 5 feet apart along each row. Leave 12 to 25 inches between rows to determine thickness.

The long-lasting success of the structure depends on selecting, properly positioning, and fixing sturdy posts. “You don’t want to put all the time and effort in, and then strong winds come in and knock it over,” Davidson says.

3. Layer and Weave

Start with thicker branches at the base for stability. Stack smaller cuttings on top and weave longer, flexible branches horizontally to knit everything together.

The beauty of a dead hedge is that you don’t need everything to look perfect. A few protruding twigs add rustic character and create perches for birds.

4. Keep Adding Over Time

A dead hedge is an ever-evolving structure. Press down the woody materials to keep them compact, and add new prunings as they settle to maintain height and density.

Tips for Building Dead Hedges That Last

Dead hedges can be rustic, refined, or somewhere in between. These tips help you achieve the desired form and ensure longevity:

• Incorporate living elements: “This knits everything together, and then you get to appreciate the flowers and leaves,” Davidson says. Living shrubs or vines can improve privacy and add seasonal interest.
• Choose rot-resistant posts in wet climates: Cedar is a good option.
• Build against existing fencing: This can provide stability and improve the look of chain-link boundaries.
• Water in dry climates: “If you wanted it to function like a natural screen or an aesthetic piece that also has that decomposition value, people will actually water their compost piles in drier areas,” Davidson says.
• Let local materials inspire the design. Using what naturally grows in your region helps your dead hedge blend in while making it unique. Davidson has seen dead hedge-style structures in Tucson built from saguaro ribs and other cactus skeletons, creating architectural facades that feel distinctly Southwestern.

FAQ

What type of branches are best for a dead hedge?

“There’s definitely plant material that is going to lend itself more to being part of the structure, but also prioritize using what you have,” Davidson says. Using local, readily available material keeps the project sustainable.

Flexible green branches like willow are easier to bend and shape. Drier sticks work well for stacking and bulk. Avoid aggressive species like blackberry if you don’t want  excessive regrowth.

Are dead hedges secure?

Your well-built dead hedge may deter wayward foot traffic and define boundaries, but it isn’t a high-security fence. For added protection, you can incorporate thorny branches or combine your dead hedge with existing fencing or living shrubs.

How much maintenance does a dead hedge need?

Dead hedges are low-not-no maintenance, but Davidson says that shouldn’t scare you away from the project.

You’re going to continue to have a relationship with it,” Davidson says. Add new material as branches settle, repair loose sections as needed, and remove aggressive weeds so they don’t overwhelm the structure.

I have young children. Is a dead hedge safe?

A thoughtfully built dead hedge can be safe for family yards, but you should regularly check for shifting materials, protruding branches at eye level, and loose posts.

About the Expert

Deryn Davidson is the Sustainable Landscape State Specialist for Colorado State University Extension. She holds a Bachelor of Science in Horticulture from CSU and a Master of Landscape Architecture from the University of Arizona.

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Popular Tile Options and the Spaces They Suit Best

Selecting tile for your home projects can be a fun design decision, but it comes with a lot of responsibility. Because tile is expensive to install and difficult to change out, it should not be chosen lightly. Start with your personal style and budget, then choose materials and tile sizes that fit your vision. In this article, we detail the different tile types you’ll encounter, as material and size will influence your project’s final look, cost and maintenance.

Read on for expert-based insights from tile industry pros – Fiorella Cosgrove of Cortina Tile, Elizabeth Legault from Best Tile and Schannon Yodice of That Tile Chick.

Tile Materials

From luxury natural stone to affordable manmade options, tile materials run the gamut in price, installation cost, and maintenance. As for longevity, all properly installed tile, with the exception of very low-quality products, will last for decades. The truth is, most tile goes out of style long before it actually needs to be replaced. Consider timeless tile looks to avoid early rip-outs due to changing trends.

Marble

Marble tile can be used for flooring, countertops, shower walls and backsplashes. However, it’s not low maintenance, requiring careful cleaning and regular sealing to prevent stains. “You can use it anywhere, just know your traffic pattern,” Cosgrove says. “It’s typically used in less trafficked areas like powder rooms, but we sell a lot for backsplashes, entryways and hearths, too.”

Granite

Granite tile is harder and less porous than marble, so it is often used for high-traffic flooring in kitchens, entryways and bathrooms. It’s also used for backsplashes and shower walls. Granite will also need regular sealing, but it resists stains better than marble.

Ceramic

Durable and affordable, ceramic tile works great in high-traffic spaces. “It’s a fired clay with a glazed surface,” Cosgrove explains, so it also pairs nicely with radiant flooring systems, providing even warmth through the tile. Available in a wide variety of sizes, styles and shapes, ceramic tile is versatile and easy to cut and install.

Porcelain

Porcelain is a very hard, manmade tile that’s nearly impervious to water. “It’s made from minerals, so is far less porous,” Cosgrove says, making it a popular choice for outside applications, bathrooms and kitchens. It also holds up very well in high-traffic areas.

Glass

Glass tile works as a feature wall, backsplash or accent, but never for floors. It should also be professionally installed. “Glass tile is a special tile and should be installed by someone skilled with that material, as it takes special blades, cutting techniques and installation techniques,” Yodice says.

Tile Sizes

While technically any size tile could be used in any application, some tiles lend themselves better to certain situations. “What you want the space to look like will depend on the size tile to use,” Cosgrove says. Be aware that a small tile means more grout with more cleaning and maintenance, particularly for floors.

Mosaic tile

Small tiles with connective netting on the back; mosaic tiles are a popular choice for shower floors and accent features. “For showers with a center drain, the floor will need to be pitched,” Legault says. “Mosaic tiles are easier to create this pitch due to their small size.”

Subway tile

Today’s homeowners still use a lot of subway tile, but in larger sizes than the traditional 3×6-inch format. “People are moving to slightly bigger subways, like 3×12’s and  2 ½ x 8’s, but it’s still primarily used for shower walls and backsplashes,” Legault says.

12×12

It may have fallen out of favor in recent years, but 12×12-inch tile is making a comeback, according to Legault. “Checkerboard floors are starting to see a resurgence, and people are using 12x12s to get that look,” she says.

12×24

A very popular choice, 12×24-inch tile is most often used for flooring, but can be used on shower walls as well. “The larger tiles need less grout, which means less maintenance,” Legault says, helping to explain the appeal.

Large format

The biggest trend in tile sizes is large format, which includes anything larger than 12×24-inch. “We’re seeing things larger and larger,” Cosgrove says. “Larger tiles look more modern and sleek – and people don’t like lots of grout.” These oversized tiles can be used on backsplashes, floors and shower walls. However, large-format tiles are more difficult to install and often require professional installation.

FAQ

Can I use the same tile for both my bathroom floor and shower walls?

“Yes, you can use the same tile for bathroom floors and walls if that tile is suitable for that space,” Yodice says. “It depends on the project and use.” For example, wall tile isn’t durable enough to be used on a main bathroom floor that will see a lot of traffic.

What is a PEI rating, and why does it matter?

Established by the Porcelain Enamel Institute, a PEI rating measures a tile’s durability under foot traffic. “PEI ratings are one to five,” Cosgrove says. “One is wall tile, two is light traffic, three is any residential room, four is light commercial use, and five is heavy commercial traffic like bus stations or airports. It’s all about glaze strength.”

About the Experts

• Fiorella Cosgrove is manager of Cortina Tile in West Springfield, Massachusetts, a family-run business.
• Elizabeth Legault is a design consultant at Best Tile in West Springfield, Massachusetts.
• Schannon Yodice is a contractor and host of YouTube’s ThatTIleChick, offering detailed how-to videos for homeowners and DIYers. She also created the Online Tile Academy, an online school to help students learn how to install waterproof showers and set tile.

RELATED:

• 7 Signs You’re Over-Decorating
• 18 Cheap Decor Ideas That Look Expensive
• 14 Traditional-Style Home Decor Ideas That are Still Cool

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GPS vs. Real-Life Experience: Do Navigation Apps Really Know the Fastest Route?

There’s no doubt about it: modern Global Positioning System (GPS) accuracy has improved by leaps and bounds since the days of Transit, the first global satellite navigation system developed in the early days of the Space Program. Modern GPS can pinpoint the receiver’s position in your car or phone to within a few feet—or even better—and navigation systems like Google Maps, Apple Maps and WAZE use GPS data to help drivers find the fastest route to their destination in all sorts of traffic conditions.

GPS accuracy is undeniable as far as positioning is concerned, but how accurate are the apps that use it to plan routes and estimate driving time? I’m an old-school driver who likes to rely on instinct and intuition, but my friend won’t go anywhere without punching the destination into her phone and turning on the navigation voice. In both our experiences, the estimated and actual arrival times are seldom more than a couple of minutes apart, but we don’t always agree on whether the suggested route is the fastest one.

Let’s explore that.

How GPS Chooses Routes

Actually, it’s the navigation app you use that chooses routes, but before it can do that, it needs to pinpoint your location via GPS. The global GPS system consists of 30+ satellites, each equipped with a signal transmitter and receiver and a super-accurate atomic clock. The clock times how long it takes for the signal it emits, which moves at light speed, to travel to your device and back again. It takes into account the movement of the satellite (which is very fast by terrestrial standards—roughly 7,000 mph) by correcting for the Doppler Effect and even relativistic time dilation. For accurate placement, your device must communicate with at least four of these satellites at once.

Once your device knows your position, the navigation software takes over and places you on a grid. It establishes nodes and edges to the grid, and when you choose a destination, it uses algorithms to plan your route. It’s all about “weight” (the time it takes to travel between nodes) when it comes to establishing the fastest route, and here are some of the factors that go into calculating it:

• Historical data: In the absence of adverse conditions, navigation apps know how long it usually takes cars to travel a certain roadway at a particular time of day, and they assign that roadway a default weight.
• Road characteristics: Traffic lights, left turns, single-lane roadways, and stop signs along a route create penalties that increase the weight.
• Road conditions: The algorithm penalizes routes with poor conditions, such as heavy ice or snow.
• Crowdsourced pings: Navigation apps receive real-time data from other drivers, and when many cars are stopped or moving slowly along a route, the weight of that route spikes.

When GPS Is Most Accurate

GPS most accurately fixes your position when you are in an unobstructed area, and the weather is clear. Clear weather also improves the navigation software’s ability to calculate your driving time. When choosing the fastest route, GPS accuracy is best when traffic patterns are typical for that time of day.

When GPS Might Not Be the Best Option

GPS accuracy suffers in bad weather or when conditions aren’t typical. “Navigation apps can cut time in regular traffic,” says Chad Watwood, a lawyer who handles injury cases involving motorcycles, “but they are less accurate around construction sites, in rural areas, extreme weather or shortly after a crash. Haulers could also come across unexpected barriers when redirected onto new roads.”

GPS is ineffective if you can’t get a good signal because of surrounding obstructions, like mountains, and it also doesn’t work if your destination isn’t clearly defined on the navigation grid. For example, my house is in a rural, poorly mapped, mountainous area, and when visitors try to use GPS to find it, they often get directed to a road on the ridge opposite ours. For this reason, we always send visitors, workers and delivery drivers clear written directions and advise them to follow those rather than using GPS.

Pros and Cons of Following GPS Every Time

Have you ever gotten lost in a busy neighborhood? Perhaps you’ve gotten stuck in a traffic jam that you could have avoided by going a different way. GPS helps you avoid such situations and provides these benefits:

• Less stress;
• Improved safety;
• Reduced travel time;
• Greater likelihood that you’ll arrive when you say you will.

On the other hand, over-reliance on GPS can be detrimental. “Dependence on GPS alone may prioritize arrival times over road conditions,” says Watwood. It may also atrophy your innate sense of direction and make it harder to navigate on your own. Other drawbacks include:

• Distracted and unsafe driving;
• Misdirection because of inaccuracies in the software;
• Potential privacy violations because your movements are being tracked.

Smartest Strategy for Drivers

GPS-powered navigation apps can’t predict the future any better than you can. If you know by experience that problems are likely to develop along the route the apps suggests at the time of day you’re traveling, trust your intuition and choose a different route. As Watwood puts it: “Treat GPS as advisory: check routes, keep an ear out for audio cues and be willing to overrule the device.”

If you already know which way you want to go, and you’re familiar with the route, it’s a good idea to turn off the app, especially if you’re on a freeway. It may choose a different route and instruct you to turn at a place you aren’t expecting, which could create confusion and cause you to swerve into an adjacent lane. I’m speaking from experience.

FAQ

Should I always follow the GPS exactly?

Once you’ve decided to trust it, then yes. Second-guessing the algorithm only creates confusion and will probably cost you time.

Which GPS apps are best for finding the fastest route?

For several years, WAZE was generally considered the best because of its community-oriented crowdsourcing feature that lets users report accidents and other incidents in real time. More recently, Google and Apple have included similar features in their navigation software, and PC Magazine now rates Google the best, with Apple second and WAZE third.

About the Expert

• Charles (Chad) Watwood III is a lawyer handling motorcycle accident cases.He practices with the Georgia law firm LawBike Motorcycle Injury Lawyers.

Sources

• Aerospace.org: A Brief History of GPS; (2020)
• NASA: How Does GPS Work?; (2026)
• GPS World: Inside the box: GPS and relativity (2023)
• PCMag: The Best Navigation Apps for 2026 (2026)

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• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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Clear the Chaos With This Easy DIY Tote Storage Rack

Plan the Rack Dimensions

Before cutting a single board, determine the overall size of the tote rack you want to build. For this, you’ll need a few measurements and quantities:

• The size of the wall you have available. The rack’s location dictates the height, width, and depth of the entire structure. For this project, I’m building a custom tote storage rack for the back wall in a compact storage area measuring 83-1/2-in. wide x 78-5/8-in. high, but with some plumbing and heating to work around.
• The size of the totes. The rack will accommodate two different tote sizes—17-gallon and 27-gallon. Gather the width from under the top lip of the tote, height, and depth of the totes with their tops on. The 27-gallon totes measure 15-1/4-in. tall x 17-1/4-in. wide under the lip x 28-1/2-in. long. The 17-gallon ended up being 12-1/2-in. tall x 15-1/2-in. wide under the lip x 26-3/4-in. long.
• The number of totes you have. Our stack of totes had four 27-gallon and eight 17-gallon totes.

With these numbers, we determined we wanted our rack divided into three sections: two sections with tote rails (D) spaced 15-3/4-in. apart for the 17-gallon totes, and one section with tote rails (D) spaced 17-1/2-inch apart for the 27-gallon totes. Though the 17-gallon totes were 2-3/4- in. shorter than the 27-gallon totes, we chose to keep the tote rails at the same height to maintain uniformity.

Cut the 2x4s

Using a miter saw, measure and cut all the 2×4 components according to the cut list above. The four braces () have 45-degree miters on both ends. For those pieces, I recommend cutting the board to its longest length first (35 1/2-in. in this case). Then, cut the 45-degree miters afterward.

You’ll end up with a large stack of cut pieces, so stack and organize them by part. Keeping the piles separated will make assembly more efficient.

Sand, stain, and poly (optional)

This step is entirely optional. I chose to sand and stain to unify the wood’s appearance, masking the natural variations from board to board. Using a palm sander fitted with 150-grit sandpaper, smooth out any splinters and uneven grain.

For the finish, I selected a dark walnut stain, let it dry, and applied a couple coats of wipe-on poly before moving on to assembly.

Assemble the front and back frame

Begin by building the front and back frames of the rack.

• Working on a flat floor, lay out two outside uprights (A) and the top and bottom plates (B), to form a rectangle for the front frame.
• Use 90-degree clamping squares and clamps at each corner to ensure all joints meet cleanly at right angles.
• Drill two pilot holes in each corner using a countersink drill bit. Then, drive two 2-1/2-in. screws into each corner, through the plates (B) and into the endgrain of the uprights (A).
• Repeat the process for the back frame.

Connect Both Frames

With both the front and back frames assembled, attach four tote rails (D), one in each corner, to connect the two frames. Use woodworking clamps to hold them in place while pre-drilling and driving screws from the outside uprights (A) into each tote rail (D).

Once the four tote rails are secured, have a friend help you flip the entire thing over to secure the second frame.

Add the Braces

Attach the four 45-degree braces (F) between the side uprights (A) on each side to prevent twisting during assembly.

Toe-screw one mitered end of the braces (F) to one of the side uprights (A), then check for square. If you’re square, toe-screw the other end of the brace (F) to the other side upright (A). If the frame isn’t square, rack it by standing on the bottom plates (B) and pushing the structure forward or backward until it’s square, then have your helper (or a quick-grip clamp) ready to secure the second end of the brace (F) in place.

If needed, use additional clamps to nudge the braces (F) into alignment before attaching it with toe-screws.

Attach the Inside Uprights

Now it’s time to install the inside uprights (C), which we’ll attach the tote rails (D) to. Align, pre-drill and sink 2-1/2-in. screws through the inside uprights (C) and into the side uprights (A) at the top, center, and bottom of each inside upright. Warped 2x4s can be corrected by securing the straightest end first and gradually working the curves out by clamping and screwing as you move down its length.

Join the Studs for Center Beams

The center beams are made of two uprights (A) sandwiched together. Take the remaining eight uprights and screw them together to make four beams, screwed together at the top, center, bottom. Use clamps if needed to help straighten out any warping in the 2x4s.

Attach the Center Beams

Attach the center beams made of sandwiched uprights (A) to the top and bottom plates (B) of the tote storage rack using 2-1/2-in. screws.

Space them so that there is an 18-3/4-in. opening between them for a 17-gallon tote, or a 20-1/2-in. opening between them for a 27-gallon tote.

Use a square and a tape measure to ensure the uprights are square and parallel to each other while securing

Attach the tote rails

The lip on both tote sizes is about 1-5/8-in. thick. After testing a couple of different heights, I found that two inches was more than enough to easily slide a tote on a set of rails.

Starting from the top, attach the first tote rails (D) to the uprights (A) and center beams two inches down from the top plates (B). Then, space out the remaining three rows of tote rails 13-5/8 in. from the tote rail (D) above it. This gave us just about two inches between the bottom of one large 27-gallon tote and the top of the one directly below it.

Attach the tote rails to the uprights using 2-1/2-in. screws so that they are all aligned with a tote rail across from them and level from front to back.

Install the Ledger

The ledger (E) serves as the anchor point for attaching the rack to a concrete wall. Attach the ledger (E) to the back of the tote rack below the highest tote rails (D). Screw it into the two inside uprights (C) and into the center beam uprights (A) along the back of the tote rack.

Anchor the Rack to the Wall

For safety and stability, anchor the rack into the wall through the ledger (E) using the proper anchor for the wall you are attaching it to.

Our wall was cinder block, so we attached it using 3-1/4-in. masonry screws in three places along the ledger (E). If you are attaching it to walls with studs, make sure you tie it directly into the studs whenever possible.

FAQ

How do you reinforce shelving for heavy totes?

There are many ways to reinforce your shelving for heavy totes, including installing corner braces, screwing plywood to the back to prevent wobble, or, better yet, anchoring it to the wall.

How much weight can a 27-gallon tote hold?

The weight a 27-gallon tote can hold is about 75-100 lbs.

What not to store in plastic totes?

Don’t store food or other perishables, hazardous materials, or anything that could melt like candles in plastic totes.

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What Is “House Burping” — And Why Is Everyone Suddenly Talking About It?

Sometimes you come across a word or phrase that makes you do a double-take. And odds are, “house burping” is one of those terms. While the term might sound like a joke, it actually refers to a long-standing home-cleaning practice that has recently gained significant attention and popularity in the United States. So if you’ve heard someone talking about or come across a headline about house burping, just know you’re not alone.

The unusually named practice has been the talk of the internet of late, but what actually is house burping, where does it come from, and how can homeowners do it safely?

What Is House Burping?

House burping is the process of intermittently, intentionally airing out a residence or non-residential enclosed space by opening windows completely. This is often for several-minute intervals, but the duration can vary based on multiple factors. The concept stems from a German practice called “Lüften,” a daily home-ventilation routine.

Many German households use the cross-breeze from all windows, and sometimes doors as well, for a fresh-air recirculation rather than relying on a slow trickle of airflow through gaps and other air conditioning. After allowing several minutes for fresh air to come in, residents can go back to allowing their heating and cooling systems to run with new, fresh air to pull from.

So, why the unusual name?

It comes from a funny translation. It also does a good job of getting your attention to a serious matter that most people might not realize is important. Fresh air is important for removing indoor pollutants, excess moisture, and odors, while also improving oxygen levels. This can support better overall health goals, including sleep and eliminate unnecessary respiratory irritation.

Does House Burping (Lüften) Improve Indoor Air Quality?

While certain machines, like a home humidifier or air purifier, can help, it is a similar issue of a machine cycling through air as opposed to letting Mother Nature do a quick purification of your home.

American homes have become more tightly sealed through improved insulation, energy-efficient windows, better roofing, and weatherstripping. And while these are great for energy efficiency to control indoor temperatures and reduce utility costs, that comes at the expense of natural airflow. With growing awareness of the importance of indoor air quality, trends like house burping have allowed us to look deeper at how air moves inside houses.

And it’s easy to see why house burping would appeal to homeowners, as it requires no new equipment and is a fairly easy routine to remember and incorporate. You can think of it like another chore. Now, when you open the curtains in the morning, you can also open the windows for a few minutes. Just remember to set an alarm because if you forget, in no time you might have new unwanted pests taking up residence in your home.

It is worth noting that house burping is not a replacement for a well-maintained HVAC system. So even if you’re regularly recycling your air with the windows open you’ll still need to change air filters and check regularly that everything is attuned.

House burping works most efficiently when windows are open in multiple corners of the house and rooms to allow the air to flow with less interruption. Think of it like this: opening the window in your bedroom will let that room feel fresher, but if you open that window AND the living room window across the house, the air can flow more freely.

How To Try House Burping Safely

So, if this is sounding great to you, remember to keep these house burping best practices in mind.

Only practice house burping when outdoor air quality is good and temperatures are not extreme. Local media outlets and weather officials will release updates when outdoor air quality is dangerous. That can include environmental health factors like wildfire smoke or pollen.

Also, if you have children or pets, make sure that they are not in danger of going outside. This is particularly important for residences that aren’t on the ground floor.

Do not leave windows open for too long. If you’re concerned with not getting enough air recycling, consider more frequent, shorter periods with windows open rather than fewer, longer stretches. Home security is also an important factor, as open windows and doors are invitations for unwanted guests.

Sources

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Introduction to Indoor Air Quality”

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “Indoor Environmental Quality”

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