The Simple Upgrade I Used to Protect My Truck Bed From the Elements

Install the bulkhead seal

The bulkhead seal is the foam strip that sits between the bulkhead and the header bar. This prevents water from entering and can help level the header bar to sit inline with the side rails.

• At the front of the truck bed, clean the top of the bulkhead with soap and water to rid of any dirt. You can also just wipe it clean with rubbing alcohol.
• Take the bulkhead seal and attach it to the top of the bulkhead. Then, work your way to the other end, sealing as you go. Trim any excess seal.
• Press down firmly on the seal along its entire length to ensure a watertight bond. Remove the protective film from the top of the foam seal before proceeding.

Install the side rails

The side rails are usually labeled D (driver) and P (passenger) near the front corner cap.

• Place the side rails according to the label on the corner cap, on top of the bed rail. Position the corner cap at the front of the truck.
• Turn over the side rail. Locate the foam pad with four detachable corner weather seals. Peel and press one of the larger corner seals into the bottom corner of the front corner cap. Repeat on the other front corner cap.
• Flip them back over and place them on the bed rails. Ensure that the weather seal is flush and flat against the bed rail.
• Align the inside edge of the side rails with the inside edge of the bed rail. The end of the side rail should align with the back of the bed rail, where the inside of the tailgate sits when closed.
• Place three clamps on each side. One at the front, middle and back of the side rails.
• Tighten the side rail to the bed rail with the clamps by hand, as you will need to adjust the side rails later to fit properly. Connect the clamp’s teeth to the small channel grooves on the side rail, and secure the bottom of the clamp under the bed rail.

Install the header bar

The header bar contains the vinyl cover assembly.

• Set the header bar on top of the bulkhead seal and center it. Ensure that the straps for the cover hang down and are not caught between the bulkhead seal and header bar. Align the ends evenly on both sides.
• Insert one of the connecting corner caps of the side rail into the open cavity of the header bar. You may need to loosen the clamps slightly to connect them. There is no click or locking mechanism when you connect the corner cap to the header bar, so check that the header bar is flush and square at the connection. Repeat on the other side rail.
• Ensure the header bar is centered on the bulkhead with the side rails connected before moving on.

  

Unroll and align

As mentioned in previous steps, you will need to adjust the side rail clamps to ensure a secure and aligned fit.

• With the cover and header bar centered on the bulkhead, unroll the vinyl cover slowly back towards the tailgate.
• As you unroll, align the side rails so the cover’s cross bars sit between them. Move the side rail clamps, if needed, so the support bars do not rest on them.
• When you reach the tailgate, drop the end of the attached tail rail into place so it clicks into the side rail at the tailgate. There should be approximately a 1/8-in. gap between the tail rail and the side rail to allow it to properly latch.

Secure the clamps

Tighten all six clamps with a socket wrench.

• Unlatch and roll up the cover. Use your socket wrench to tighten the end clamps near the tailgate on both sides.
• Double-check that the header bar is still centered and fully connected at the corners. Then tighten the front clamps near the bulkhead.
• Move down to the middle clamps and tighten.
• Roll out the tonneau cover back to the tailgate and latch it in place to test the fit.

Final adjustments

• Unlatch the tail rail by pulling the cables downward at both ends. Roll up to expose the bottom corners of the tail rail.
• Place the last two small foam corner seals at the corners of the tail rail. Align the corner seal to the corners of the tail rail. Latch the cover and close the tailgate, ensuring it doesn’t hit the tailgate.
• To eliminate wrinkles, starting from the front, peel up the velcro edge on the side rail. Pull it taut and back towards the tailgate. Velcro it back down and work your way down to the tailgate.
• Switch over to the other side and repeat.

FAQ

Does a tonneau cover improve gas mileage?

Yes, but this also depends on the type of truck bed tonneau cover you have installed. Tonneau covers reduce drag in your truck, making it easier for you to reach your designated speed. Soft folding and soft roll-up tonneau covers are lightweight and don’t add much weight to the truck. As for heavier-duty tonneau covers, they will not improve your mpg as they add significantly more weight to your truck.

How is “tonneau” pronounced?

“Tonneau” is pronounced tuh-NOH

How should I clean a tonneau cover?

Wash your tonneau cover at a self-service car wash station or hand-wash it at home. Avoid automated car wash stations with brushes, as they can damage your tonneau cover and may shift it over time. If you must take it to a car wash, use a touch-free car wash station, which uses pressurized water and detergent rather than brushes.

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The Two States That Don’t Allow Hands-Free Gas Pump Clips, and Why

In most of the United States, gas pump clips are a common find at your local gas station. They make life easier; you can fill up your tank while washing your windows or running inside the store to grab a snack. But, as Michael Frank from Jalopnik reports, there are still two states that don’t allow these clips.

Which States Don’t Allow Gas Pump Clips

Per Frank, the two states that don’t allow gas pump clips are Rhode Island and New York. In both cases, the laws cite fire safety as the reasoning. However, these fire safety considerations vary by state.

New York’s codes are so confusing that while the clips aren’t outright banned across the board anymore, according to Frank, gas station owners are reluctant to add them even when they are allowed. Rhode Island, on the other hand, has hardly touched its laws despite safety technology rapidly advancing.

Are There Any Plans to Change the Laws?

With only two holdouts, it seems that if other states have figured out how to mitigate safety concerns, then Rhode Island and New York can one day remove their bans. But changing a law is a convoluted process.

Rhode Island

As of now, it doesn’t appear that Rhode Island has a set timeline for updating the law. The closest the state has come at this point was carving out an exception to its ban. Gas clips were allowed on stage II vapor recovery nozzles, which are designed to collect the vapors that might otherwise escape the gas tank. Alex Kuffner of The Providence Journal reports that in 1993, the state required all gas stations to have these nozzles.

However, automotive technology was changing at the same time, and more and more cars came with their own vapor recovery systems. By 2006, these systems were so prolific that the ones at the pump were “redundant.” Kuffner states that “in 2015, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency approved Rhode Island’s plan requiring all stage II nozzles at gas stations to be decommissioned by Dec. 22, 2017.” The law has not been updated, however.

New York

Frank attributes New York’s dearth of gas clips to the fact that its “fire-suppression laws are so confusing that gas station owners have avoided updating their pumps.” As recently as 2025, New York lawmakers have pushed for revisions to the code to make clear allowances for these clips. State Senator Joseph Griffo, pushed for “Senate Bill 7418 [which] would authorize self-service gas stations to allow for hands-free gas dispensing by installing hold open clips on gasoline and diesel fuel dispensing nozzles.”

Sources

Why These Two States Still Don’t Have Hold-Open Clips On Gas Pumps, Jalopnik, 2026.

Why RI is one of the last states to ban hands-free fueling, The Providence Journal, 2026.

Griffo introduces bill allowing hands-free gas pumps, The New York State Senate, 2025.

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The Simple Method I Used to Remove Tint From My Car Windows

Heat the tint for removal

Heating the tint softens the adhesive beneath, making the film much easier to peel off in one piece rather than shredding into tiny, frustrating strips.

• Roll the window down about a third of the way to expose the top edge of the tint.
• Using your heat gun, apply heat to a small area at the top of the tint where you plan to start peeling. Pull the heat away once the area is warm. You’ll likely need to keep applying heat throughout the peeling process to keep the adhesive soft and workable.
• Use a utility knife or your fingernails to start lifting the tint from the heated area.

Peeling the film

The goal is to remove the tint in as few pieces as possible. Going slow and working evenly is the difference between one clean pull and a half hour of picking at shredded tint film with a razor blade scraper.

• Lift the tint from the heated area and work your way across the top of the window until you reach the corner.
• Peel the corner of the window slowly off at a diagonal — this helps prevent the film from tearing.
• Take your time and don’t force the tint off. Work the top and sides down evenly and slowly, applying more heat as needed to keep the adhesive releasing cleanly.
• When you reach the point where the window stops, roll it back up completely and continue working your way down.
• As you reach the bottom, pull the tint out of the window seam, starting at one corner, then work across until the film is completely removed.

Clean the window

Even a clean peel leaves adhesive residue on the glass. This step returns the window to bare glass, so it’s ready for new tint or a clear, streak-free finish.

• Spray the window with cleaner, then use a razor blade scraper to remove any remaining adhesive residue. Rubbing alcohol also works well to help loosen sticky spots.
• Continue scraping until all the adhesive is removed, then go over the glass with a non-scratch scouring pad for a final deep clean.
• Roll the window down to clean the top edge that’s been hidden by the frame.
• Spray the edges and bottom seam to flush out any remaining dirt and residue. Roll the window back up.
• Spray the entire window again, then wipe clean with a squeegee.

Remove tint from a fixed window

The process is the same as the roll-down window, with a few differences.

• Fixed windows like quarter panels have a dot matrix border — the band of black ceramic dots along the edges. This coating makes it harder to see where the tint starts. Use a flashlight at the top corner to find the edge of the film.
• Apply heat to the top corner. Use a utility knife to lift the corner — you may need small pliers if you can’t get enough of an edge to grip with your fingers.
• With the corner lifted, pull diagonally until the top starts to release, then use your other hand to work across the top. Apply heat as needed.
• Work your way down evenly. Unlike a roll-down window, the tint on a fixed window usually isn’t tucked into the window seam — the dot-matrix coating along the bottom and edges makes it unnecessary. So when you reach the bottom, the film should pull off cleanly without needing to work it out of a channel.
• Clean the glass the same way as the roll-down window — spray, scrape, scrub pad, squeegee. Be careful not to scratch or scrape off the dot matrix coating when using the razor blade scraper. Let the cleaner do the work and keep the blade angle low against the glass.

Check your work

Inspect all windows to make sure no adhesive residue remains and that no scratches occurred from scraping or scrubbing. Do a courtesy clean of the door panels and door frames to wipe up any cleaner or residue runoff from the removal process.

FAQ

Will removing tint damage windows?

It shouldn’t if you use the right technique. Use a clean stainless-steel blade in your scraper, keep it wet with cleaner, and hold the blade at a low angle flat against the glass. A dull, nicked, or dry blade is what causes scratches — not the scraping itself. Take your time and let the cleaner and heat do most of the work.

Does tint devalue a car?

Generally, no, but depending on who the buyer is and where you live, it can determine if tint will value and devalue your car. Some buyers like the tint for the benefits of having tinted windows but others stay away from it due to the tint laws of the state they live in and the difficulty of driving at night.

Can you remove tint from factory-tinted glass?

No, because of the dye and pigments embedded into the tint. You can apply tint or remove tint on the glass, but not when it is embedded.

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8 Budget-Friendly Ways to Refresh Your Home While You Save for a Remodel

Give Your Space a Fresh Coat of Paint

Painting is one of the simplest ways to refresh your interior—and it makes a major difference. Committing to one light, bright color—Benjamin Moore’s Chantilly Lace—throughout our space was one of the first design decisions we made, and we’re so glad we did.

“If you’ve purchased a new home and have a limited budget for immediate improvements, I always strongly recommend you start with painting,” explains Lauren Vallario, CEO and Principal Designer at Lauren Vallario Designs, Inc. “Painting can be a messy job, but it is one of the few that even an inexperienced homeowner can tackle themselves. It is also much easier to do right before you move in without all of your furniture and belongings in the home. The key to a good paint job is quality paint and precision. Consider investing in a good paint and good tools.”

Vallario says you can spend roughly $75 per gallon of paint, so if you aim to keep your spending at $500 or less, you can paint several rooms without blowing your budget (depending on the size of your home).

Keep in mind that doing your research is key. For instance, prepping your walls correctly and taking your time will help you obtain a more professional look overall.

Reevaluate Furniture That No Longer Suits Your Vibe

Sometimes, the difference between a drab sofa and a more aesthetically pleasing look can be as simple as investing in new throw pillows and blankets. Think about a color palette that will work, and even bring a picture of your couch with you as you shop.

Take it from a HomeGoods regular shopper and connoisseur: It may take a few trips to the store—and maybe even a few returns—but there’s an improved version for everything. The last time I went throw pillow shopping at HomeGoods, I actually bought two full sets I absolutely fell in love with—then styled each on my sectional to see what worked best. The set I almost left behind ended up being truly exceptional—very Serena & Lily-esque, for a mere fraction of the cost.

By going this route, I spent roughly $175 on a collection of eight throw pillows and a new blanket, as opposed to $3,000+ on a brand-new couch. A small swap like this has the power to completely transform a living area.

In addition, consider painting any accent furniture pieces that seem tired to give them a new life. You’d be amazed what a fun new paint color and whimsical hardware can do to a vanity, buffet, or TV console. Whether you will replace them at the right time or plan on keeping them for the long run, this small investment won’t go unnoticed.

Replace Lighting Fixtures

Replacing lighting fixtures is an expense you will likely have down the line that can be addressed now—if you know the style you want. In the meantime, this tip updates and improves the look of any room, whether it’s dreamy bathroom sconces (which can cost just $49 each) or a chic chandelier hanging over your kitchen table.

“When homes change hands, sellers often tend to replace good light fixtures with really basic ones,” Vallario says. “Consider changing fixtures that [your guests] are likely to see upon entering the home (foyer lighting, hallways, etc). Great lighting can really set the tone. If you’re trying to keep the budget to $500 or less, you may only be able to replace one or two fixtures, but that can easily make a big difference.”

If swapping fixtures isn’t an option, consider changing the bulbs to create a brighter or softer ambiance.

Swap Out Kitchen Hardware

Hardware is another area where you can let your personality shine. Replacing kitchen cabinet knobs and pulls is a seamless way to upgrade the overall look. Plus, a set of 10 sleek brushed brass pulls costs around $51 for a set of 10, as opposed to opting for new custom cabinets, which can be roughly $18/SF to $150/SF. Generally speaking, Niemela says that hardware can range anywhere from $3 to $20+ each, so prepare to budget around $75 to $600 for the average kitchen or bathroom.

“The first thing you want to do before you purchase new hardware is to measure the center-to-center holes of your existing hardware. The hardware needs to match the same size as your existing, or you will have to patch, paint, and redrill in order to replace it — which will certainly break the budget,” Vallario explains. “I always recommend doing a basic drawing of your cabinets and notating the sizes so you can easily know what size goes where and count how many you need to order. Once you have them, it is really simple to unscrew the old hardware and screw in the new ones. This is a project that you can accomplish in an hour or less.”

Tweak Your Furniture Layout

If you can re-work the layout of your bedroom furniture, you’ll feel like you’re sleeping in a brand-new space. Rather than completely remodeling a bedroom, you can easily work with what you have and shop with a budget of $250 for a fresh comforter, throw pillows, nightstands, and curtains to turn your bedroom into an oasis you look forward to retreating to at the end of the day. For instance, this comforter and sham set from Wayfair costs $45, a set of two rattan bedside tables from Target costs $150, and you can snag breezy semi-sheer curtains (set of two) from Birch Lane for $32.

“One of the biggest things homeowners overlook is simply decluttering and improving furniture layout. Sometimes the home itself isn’t the problem—it’s overcrowded rooms, poor lighting, and too much visual clutter,” Jeri Goodkin Dausey, Certified General Contractor & Certified Building Inspector at Violation Clinic, says.

Splurge on the “Little Things”

It’s easy to get trapped in the same old boring habits. Splurging on a few “little things” can make a big difference and bring daily joy to your space. For instance, head to Bath & Body Works for foaming hand soap for your bathroom, treat yourself to a bouquet of fresh florals each week for your dining table, or pick out just the right scented candles for every season—and light them regularly.

Niemela recommends updating small things in your master and/or guest bathroom—rather than a total reno that can cost upwards $10,000 to $80,000+—but do it as a complete package. This means including things like your bathroom mirror, faucet, towel holder, and vanity light.

“Expect to spend $450 to $1,200 for this upgrade,” he says. “Full bathroom remodel prices could range from $10,000 to $80,000+. Plus, accessories, depending on how fancy you go.”

Make sure to turn off the water under your sink before getting started. Niemela recommends installing your new faucet with the old faucet hole spacing and patching the wall where the holes from your old faucet were. Another rule of thumb? Hang your mirror so that it’s positioned 60 to 66 inches from the ground. In addition, keep metal finishes consistent throughout.

“Pro tip: Behind some old sinks, the plumbing supply lines and drain pipes can become rotten. Anticipate spending another $75 to $200 for these parts if needed,” Niemela adds.

Use Peel-And-Stick Backsplash, Shiplap, or Molding

Peel-and-stick applications like backsplash, shiplap, wainscoting, or molding are fun projects you can tackle at home—and many brands offer kits that make the process easy. For instance, you can elevate the look of a room with peel-and-stick shiplap wall paneling ($66) for a coastal vibe, or opt for peel-and-stick wainscoting panels ($52) to create an elegant, vintage-esque feel. And rather than completely remodeling your kitchen—which can range anywhere from $30,000 to $150,000—peel-and-stick backsplash is a stellar alternative. This is an affordable solution that will temporarily freshen up your look.

“Use peel and stick wisely. Tile that looks like wood might cost $100 to $300 as a peel-and-stick backsplash,” Niemela tells us. “Laundry room floors, powder room walls, and rental property backsplashes make great places to start since you won’t have to live with it forever. Apply peel-and-stick tile the same way you wrap a gift. Clean the area with a degreaser, wait for it to dry, locate the highest point on the wall, and mark a level line around the room. Start in the corner most people will notice first, and apply the tile with consistent pressure.”

Keep in mind that steam, heat, and texture can wreak havoc on any peel-and-stick tile. In addition, avoid using it in rooms where the humidity is higher, like shower walls.

Update Your Front Door or Porch Aesthetic

According to Vallario, curb appeal can set the tone for the rest of your space.

Opting for a new front door isn’t a major expense—typically starting around $400—and it can give your home’s exterior a new look and personality. It’s also an investment in the future, since it would likely be part of a bigger renovation down the road. If a new door is out of the question, a unique paint color can make a similar statement—and just one quart of paint will get the job done.

Vallario also recommends investing in new planters and florals to flank your front door. You can hang a lush wreath from your door and incorporate lanterns into your setup as well. Snag a new doormat the next time you’re out shopping, too.

Last year, I decided to refresh my front door—which came primed—with a quart of Benjamin Moore’s Fountain Spout, costing me roughly $29. I totally revamped my wreath to coordinate by adding more white and baby blue faux flowers. I’m now totally obsessed with my front porch and spend most of my mornings out there, sipping my coffee.

“Nothing says welcome more than a beautifully decorated front entrance,” she points out.

About The Experts

• Danny Niemela is the Vice President and CFO at ArDan Construction, a luxury home remodeling company in Scottsdale, Arizona. Niemela is also a Licensed Contractor, Professional Remodeler, and the current Board Chairman and former President of the Greater Phoenix Chapter of NARI. He regularly meets with homeowners on budgets for bathroom makeovers, kitchen remodels, and whole-home renovations.
• Lauren Vallario is the CEO and Principal Designer at Lauren Vallario Designs, Inc., a luxury residential design firm based in Stamford, Connecticut. Vallario has been creating functional, timeless designs for more than 15 years throughout the greater Fairfield and Westchester Counties and has earned an A.A.S in Kitchen and Bathroom Design from the Art Institute of Pittsburgh.
• Jeri Goodkin Dausey is a Certified General Contractor and the Founder and CEO at Violation Clinic, a team of trusted experts who resolve building and code violations throughout the state of Florida. Goodkin Dausey is skilled in sustainable design, and single-family homes.

Sources

• “How to Paint a Front Door” (2022)

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This DIYer Transformed a Crumbling 1940s Shed Into a Dream Home Office

In Family Handyman‘s series DIY Diaries, real DIYers share the projects they’re most proud of. They recount the full story—from laying out the initial plans and wrestling with frustrating setbacks to celebrating their proudest moments. These candid accounts reveal the true ins and outs of DIY, and will leave you with practical tips that’ll give you the confidence to conquer your next build.

Family Handyman reader Scott McDermott’s DIY Diaries project is a fantastic shed transformation that serves as a testament to what can be accomplished with a simple framework and a vision. McDermott explains that the entire project came about when “one of my friends, Dan Michels, who is an architect, was visiting from out of town.” The two were walking around the property and discussing the possibility of adding on an office space when “we came to the old dilapidated shed, which was built in the 1940s.”

According to McDermott, “when Dan stepped inside, he really had an immediate vision of what the space could become.” McDermott explains, “I have that ability with gardens, but Dan has that ability with homes and structures. He was really the one who inspired me to take on this project.”

The Project Stages

What was the inspiration for this project?

When it comes to starting a project, McDermott gets a lot of his inspiration from “magazines, sometimes Instagram, Pinterest, old books, and other homes I have visited.” If he sees something he likes, he saves it. “I always start with idea boards to develop a vision,” he says. As far as this shed transformation goes, the goal “was to create a truly enjoyable space to work in; somewhere that I wanted to go.”

McDermott is a landscape designer, so he was looking to create his ideal workspace. “A quiet space where I can sit down for hours at a time and focus on work, separate from my home, away from all the normal distractions,” he said of his dream office. When it came to the overall feel of the space, he wanted it “to have a very minimalist vibe, comfortable and simple.”

Walk me through the stages of this shed transformation

McDermott’s shed transformation took roughly one year from planning to finishing since, in his words, “I was chipping away at it whenever I had time to spare.” Step one was the planning and design process, which McDermott says Michels, his architect friend, helped with. Michels “put together a basic floor plan with suggestions for things like new door placements and the addition of skylights and a wood stove.” Once the plans were in place, McDermott turned to his wife’s uncle, Kyle Engle, “to evaluate the existing framing of the structure, adding to it where needed.”

He and Engle “did all of the new framing work, insulating work (with rock wool), putting a new roof on, adding skylights, a new full glass door, new hickory flooring, drywall, restoring the original windows, and painting.” McDermott brought in professionals for one step: “I hired an electrician to re-wire the structure, add a ceiling fan, new pendant lights, and bring it up to code.”

Did you run into any setbacks?

When you’re starting with an old structure, you’re bound to run into some setbacks. Given that this shed was built sometime in the 1940s, “nothing was straight anymore,” McDermott says, “and the roof had a slight lean to it, so when we went to do anything, it was a challenge because nothing was square.” This means pretty much “everything had to be custom-cut – the flooring, the roof, even the insulation didn’t fit into the old studs, so I had to cut each piece.” The other major setback was “permitting and waiting for permits to clear in between the various stages of the project.”

Was there an aspect of this shed transformation that intimidated you until you tried it?

McDermott says that framing was initially intimidating, but Engle taught him how to do it. “You just have to make the right measurements, follow the right spacing, and it’s not that hard,” he says, “especially when you have a good chop saw and a framing nailer.”

Did you use any budgeting hacks on this project?

McDermott was clever with the project’s budget. “[I] used Facebook Marketplace to find some really nice Hickory flooring, which someone had leftover from a larger project,” he shares. He also used the marketplace “to furnish the space with all second-hand furniture.” When it came to other materials, he looked through the remnants of the original shed and “opted to save anything that I could from the original structure, including the original ceiling, original windows (which I restored), original siding, and one of the original doors.”

But perhaps “one of the biggest cost savings was the insulation.” Initially, McDermott was going to go with spray foam, but that would have cost $5,000-6,000. “Instead, I was able to insulate the entire space with rock wool for just over a thousand,” he shares.

Was there a specific moment where you felt most proud?

“The first time I was able to light a fire in my new office, and actually work out there was pretty special,” McDermott says. “Knowing that I had built it all myself was all the more rewarding.”

If you could have a do-over on this, what’s one thing you’d change?

McDermott’s main “do-over” concerns timing. “If I could go back in time, I would have started this project years ago! I didn’t realize how much use I was going to get out of it.”

Advice to Aspiring DIYers

What’s one piece of advice you’d give to someone before they start a similar project?

“If there’s one piece of advice I can give, it’s take it slow and do it right,” McDermott begins. “I didn’t rush this project, and as a result, I have no regrets.”

If you’re looking for inspiration or to learn, he recommends YouTube. “It’s amazing how much you can learn by watching a few short videos.” If talking directly to people is more your speed, you can follow in the footsteps of his uncle, who “used to stand in the aisle at Home Depot and just ask the people working there a million questions.” He says that “those people have a lot of built-up knowledge.”

What’s next for you?

Next up for McDermott? “Installing cobblestones in my driveway.”

Do you have a DIY project you’d like featured on Family Handyman? Email us your project at fhmfranchises@tmbi.com.

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I Built This Guitar Hook Out Of Only Offcuts— Here’s How It Turned Out

Cut and glue

If you’re buying lumber for this project, cut three pieces of 1-1/2-in. x 1-1/2-in. stock to 18-in. long—two walnut and one maple. That single glued-up panel yields all three pieces you’ll need later.

A guitar hook is a small project, though, which makes it perfect for using wood scraps. We built ours from scraps and offcuts, and because our pieces were only 12 inches long, we glued up two shorter panels instead of one to get enough yield.

Glue the strips together into a panel (or two) with alternating wood species: Walnut, Maple, Walnut. Make sure there is enough glue to see it squeeze out of the seams when the clamps are applied. Clamp the panels together and let them dry overnight. Placing a piece of plastic drop cloth under the glued-up panels will keep your worktable clean and make it easy to remove when the glue is dry.

Cut angled pieces

Cut the panel(s) into three pieces as laid out in the drawing below:

• A top section (A) that’s 5-1/4-in. long with a 22-1/2-degree angle on one end and a 45-degree angle on the other. Cut it long and trim (or dog ear) the top of the 45-degree angle to give yourself a 1/2-in. flatspot and get it to length.
• A middle section (B) that is 6-in. long and has 22-1/2-degree angles cut on both ends.
• A bottom section (C) that’s 5-1/4-inch long with a 22-1/2-degree angle on both ends. Again, cut it long and trim (or dog ear) the top of the 22-1/2-degree angles to give yourself a 1/2-in. flatspot and get it to length.

Drill the holes

At the drill press, use a 2-1/8-in. Forstner bit to drill holes in the top (A) and bottom (C) pieces. Drill the hole in the top (A) and bottom pieces with the Forstner bit centered 1-15/16-in. from the dog-eared ends, in the center of the glued-up.

Cut “U” shape openings

Use a bandsaw with a fence (or a board clamped as a fence) to cut straight lines from the dog-eared ends toward the sides of the 2-1/8-in. holes just drilled in the top (A) and bottom (C) pieces. This will create the “U” to accommodate the guitar neck.

Clean up any saw or drilling marks with a spindle sander.

Glue the pieces together

Use dowel centers to join the top (A), middle (B) and bottom (C) pieces with glue and dowels. Drill and use dowel centers to align the dowels and glue them in place with CA glue. Make the holes slightly larger than the dowels to give you some wiggle room and hold the exact angle needed for a seamless joint.

Tip: Using CA activator will make the glue set up very quickly.

Smooth out the back

This will soften the corners on the top and bottom of the hook, for a nice profile as it hangs on the wall.

Use a compass to draw a radius at the back of the joint between the top (A) and middle (B) pieces, and another at the lower point of the bottom piece (C). Use the inside of the joint as the pivot point for your curve.

Cut the two radii at the back of the joints using a bandsaw. Clean up the curves with a belt sander or spindle sander.

Finishing touches

With the hook assembled, a handful of small steps get it ready for the wall:

• Final sand. Give the whole piece a final pass with a detail sander to remove any remaining saw marks and round over all the edges. Start with 150-grit and work your way up to 320-grit.
• Pre-drill the hanging holes. Using a countersink drill bit, center the first hole 1-1/2-in. down from the seam at the top of the middle section (B), then place a second hole 1-1/2-in. below that.
• Make the plugs. While you’re at the drill press, use a 3/8-in. plug cutter to cut two plugs from maple. Move the stock to the bandsaw, cut the plugs from the back, and sand the fronts.
• Oil everything. Generously oil the hook and the plugs with two to three coats of walnut oil. Walnut oil won’t raise the grain, but if you use tung oil or another hardening finish, sand lightly between coats to knock it down. Set the plugs aside until you’re ready to hang.

Hanging the guitar hook

Before driving any screws, check the wall for a stud. If there isn’t one where you want the hook, install a drywall anchor first. Pre-drill your hole, drive the screw, and use a six-inch level to make sure the hook hangs level and plumb. Once it’s mounted, tap the maple plugs into the countersunk holes to cover the screws.

FAQ

Are wall hangers bad for guitars?

Hanging a guitar from a wall hook will not damage the neck. The neck is thick enough to withstand the tension of the strings and not lose its form. Therefore, also strong enough to hang on a guitar hook. A guitar, as with all wood items, will shrink and contract with exposure to sun and moisture. Whether hung on a wall or stored in a case, a guitar in a controlled environment will always be best preserved.

Is drywall strong enough to hold a guitar?

Drywall is strong enough to hold a guitar if you use an anchor to secure the screw.

How high should a guitar be hung on a wall?

If you’re hanging a guitar to play it, most people like the headstock five or six feet off the floor. I’d hang it a little higher if it’s purely decorative. Just be conscious of placement — keep it out of walkways, not so low that people brush against it or knock it around, and not too high or near HVAC ducts where it’ll be exposed to extreme temperature and humidity swings.

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The Simple Loan Payment Trick That Could Save You Thousands in Interest

A mortgage payment is one of the largest, if not the largest, monthly expenses for most U.S. households. It’s become even more of a financial burden recently, with a 30 percent increase in homeowners behind on paying their mortgage in 2026 compared to 2025 and Google search inquiries skyrocketing for what to do if you can’t make your mortgage payment.

More homeowners are looking for alternative ways to cut down on these expenses, both in the short and long term. One popular strategy is to make weekly mortgage payments instead of monthly. The idea is simple: smaller, more frequent payments can feel easier to manage than one larger monthly payment.

Depending on the loan setup, it reduces the principal balance faster, dramatically cutting the total interest paid over the lifetime of the loan. But the actual benefits depend entirely on how the loan servicer handles those extra payments.

Learn how weekly payments work, where they can help, and what homeowners should ask their lender before changing their payment routine.

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How Weekly Loan Payments Can Help

Most mortgage repayment setups are based on 12 payments a year, sometimes on the first of the month or another default day. A weekly or biweekly payment strategy moves extra money toward the loan balance. And rather than making large lump sum payments or waiting until the end of the year or bonus time, this strategy allows households to more easily budget for it as a regular expense.

This is also beneficial for homeowners who budget weekly and/or are paid weekly,

“Making payments weekly equates to 1 extra monthly payment, resulting in 13 vs. 12 payments in a year,” says Adam Saab, EVP of Servicing at loanDepot. “Since interest is based on your principal balance, the amount charged will be less. Aside from the interest savings, the extra payments can reduce years off of a 30-year mortgage.”

Do Weekly Mortgage Payments Work For Everyone?

Weekly payments only work if the servicer applies them properly.

“Some mortgage servicers don’t have the technology to accept/apply weekly (or biweekly) payments, so the money is placed in a suspense account until a full contractual payment is received before being applied,” Saab says. “In these cases, the impact wouldn’t be as great.”

Extra paid toward the principal has a compounding effect since mortgage interest gets calculated from that balance, and a lower balance can reduce future interest charges. Extra mortgage payments need to go toward the principal, not prepaid interest, to have the biggest effect.

Extra payment calculators can help you understand just how much money you can save on your loan repayment.

Homeowners should also ask their loan provider about fees and prepayment penalties, according to Saab.

“Since some lenders don’t have the ability to process these types of transactions, some may limit the frequency of payments a homeowner is allowed to make,” Saab says. “You should contact your servicer to fully understand their ability/willingness to support.”

What To Ask Before Switching To Weekly Payments

Before changing a payment schedule, call your loan provider and find out the following:

• Do they accept weekly or biweekly payments and are they applied immediately?
• Will extra money go toward principal, not interest?
• Are there fees for this payment setup or does the loan include any prepayment penalty?
• Can the homeowner cancel or change the schedule later?

Alternatively, an extra principal payment annually instead of switching to weekly payments may feel simpler if the mortgage provider doesn’t support weekly or bi-weekly repayments.

About The Expert

Adam Saab is the Executive Vice President of Servicing at loanDepot. He has more than 25 years of experience in mortgage servicing and previously held leadership roles at CitiMortgage, PNC Bank, LoanCare, and Cenlar, where he oversaw large loan portfolios and servicing operations.

Resources

• Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, “What Is A Prepayment Penalty?”
• Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, “Your Mortgage Servicer Must Comply With Federal Rules”
• Fannie Mae, “Should I Make Extra Payments On My Mortgage?”
• Freddie Mac, “Extra Payments Calculator”

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