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Tuesday, July 21, 2026

I Ditched All Plastic in My Kitchen for Less Than $200 — Here’s What I Learned

Over the years, I’ve interviewed dozens of scientists and safety experts, and all but one has sounded the alarm over the swath of problems plastic causes to our health, wildlife, ecosystems, atmosphere and the communities who live near manufacturing plants.

(The one dissenter, who went so far as to suggest ingesting plastic might actually be good for humans, was a paid lobbyist for the plastics industry.)

But, even though I was acutely aware of the ills of plastic, parting from it felt overwhelming and expensive, and even if I did, what good would actually come from the effort? I mean, plastics have taken over our homes — to the point where we directly ingest the equivalent of two fuzzy hamsters worth of the stuff each year (about 250 grams). And that doesn’t even include the thousands of chemicals embedded into plastics, which leach into our food and skin, or the rash of microplastics intertwined in our soil, waterways and even our meat and vegetables.

But recently, I finally came to the realization that my excuses were poor ones. No, I can’t fix our existential global plastics problem, but I do, in fact, have the power to control it in my own home. Not just the power, but the responsibility, for the health of my family. So I decided to start in the kitchen.

Ahead, I’m breaking down exactly what I swapped, what it cost, and what sort of effort it took to ditch plastic in my kitchen for less than $200.

The Swaps

I started in the kitchen because it felt the most urgent. It’s an obvious place where plastics transfer directly into our bodies. I also thought it would be the easiest, though I soon found plastic lurking in more places than I’d imagined — not just with conspicuous items like utensils, cutting boards and storage containers, but also in single-use coffee pods, tea bags, sponges, nonstick pans, cleaning products and even inside a can of soup.

After tackling each of these, here’s where I succeeded… and failed.

Pots and Pans

I had already dodged the bullet for one of the most serious culprits: non-stick cookware coated with Teflon and its PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) derivates, which can release thousands of micro- and nanoplastic particles into food. Many also contain PFAS, aka forever chemicals.

Note: Some argue that Teflon pans are only harmful when used improperly. In theory, that could be true, but from what I’ve seen, they’re always misused. Once they’re scratched, or exposed to high heat (like to boil water or sear a steak), they’re known to be unsafe.

Luckily, I didn’t have to buy anything new in this department. For years, I’ve cooked primarily with cast iron, stainless steel and glass. But had I not, I would have hit thrift stores and garage sales to find them. Even a 50-year-old rusty cast iron pan can be brought back to life in a few minutes.

My cost: $0 (but I was lucky to already have them)

My exception: I do have a couple of ceramic nonstick pans. These are touted as being a chemically safe alternative to Teflon… but who knows. I’ve recently read that some of them secretly contain teflon, or other chemicals that could be unsafe once the pan gets scratched or the coating starts to break down. So I rarely use these pans anymore. Why risk it?

What I learned: Years ago, when I made the swap from nonstick to cast iron, it took a bit of getting used to. For example, to keep food from sticking, it’s best to fully heat up cast iron before putting anything in it. But now that I’m used to it, I prefer the way cast iron cooks food.

Spatulas

I already had a metal spatula with a wooden handle, for use in our cast iron pans. But, I still had a couple of plastic ones for the ceramic skillets. One was made from black plastic, which is particularly problematic, as those typically contain recycled electronics.

My other spatula was made from silicone. While this material has a reputation for being safer, it can still shed microplastics and leach chemicals, plus it ultimately contributes to plastic pollution in the landfill.

My solution: I first tried using a wooden spatula, which had been in my kitchen drawer for years. It was the kind that comes with those prepackaged sets of wooden utensils. But, its lifting edge was too thick to effectively flip delicate foods like eggs, plus it didn’t scrape under encrusted items very well. Then I found these two on Amazon, which are made of teak (the black “handle” is just stain). I adore them.

  • Cost for wooden spatulas: $10

My exception: Okay, I’ll admit to it. We still have that gray silicone spatula, too. I don’t use it, but my partner won’t give it up, because he prefers its wider base and slightly thinner lip.

What I learned: I absolutely love cooking with my wooden spatulas, so much so that I often even use them in the cast iron pans. They just feel nice, plus they have a sort of elegant, inviting look to them.

Other Utensils

I didn’t get rid of anything on which the plastic was limited to the handle, like my potato peeler and masher. I didn’t see any sense in creating excess waste and spending cash on replacing items that weren’t directly touching food. I also already had wooden cooking and mixing spoons, so again, no cost there. But if you’re making the switch, you can find a decent set for about $10.

What I did switch out were tongs and measuring cups. We already had a pair of metal tongs for the grill, but I found this set of two walnut tongs for $24. You can buy them for less than half of that from other retailers, but I specifically picked these for their sharpened tips, which are thin enough to scrape under food.

I also got this set of Oxo stainless measuring cups and spoons. They do have a blip of plastic on the handle, but whatever. Close enough. There are also some nice larger glass measurers for under $10.

  • Cost for tongs: $24
  • Cost for measuring cups and spoons: $38

What I learned: It took a few practice runs to get proficient with the tongs, but now that I’m used to them, I prefer their precision to that of metal. They don’t work well with heavy or wide items, like burgers, but they’re perfect for flipping mushroom caps in a skillet or stir-frying veggies.

Cutting Board

There are now plant-based alternatives that emulate the feel of plastic cutting boards, but I prefer using wood. The USDA says wood is safe to use for meat, too, but recommends separate boards for meat and veggies. While cutting boards can run into the hundreds of dollars, but I’ve been happy with these teak ones. I’ve also used bamboo, and like those, too.

  • Cost for two cutting boards: $40.

What I learned: Thin wood cutting boards are a lot more affordable, but less durable than thicker ones. To get the longest life from them, store them upright so they can dry without warping, and oil them periodically to keep them from splitting.

Food Storage

It wasn’t too expensive to swap out all of my plastic leftover containers for glass ones. This set at Walmart is a particularly good deal, especially for 15 of them. Yes, they have plastic lids, but at least they’re BPA-free. And I think they’re safe enough, since the food is sitting in the glass, not the plastic. But, for a more purist container, you can swing for one with a bamboo lid.

As for replacements for plastic wrap and freezer/sandwich bags, I highly recommend these (theoretically) compostable bags, which are also freezer safe (but cost more than plastic ones). I’ve also tried beeswax wraps and reusable linen, and they’re nice. But to save money, I still try to put most things in glass storage containers.

  • Cost for glass storage container set: $28
  • Cost for plastic-free freezer bags: $14

What I learned: I actually often just end up reusing old pasta sauce and mason jars for leftovers. In many cases, I find them more convenient and secure, especially for soups. If you don’t care about stacking leftover containers in the fridge, then this option is free.

My exceptions: I still keep a pack of Ziplock bags around, for when I forget to order the compostable ones, and I haven’t yet sprung for compostable trash bags. Also, I don’t bother to move most items out of their in-store plastic packaging, like berries and milk, though that would be ideal.

Food and Drinks

Here’s where this experiment reaches an impasse. Much of the food we buy is contained in plastic. Even the liners of many aluminum beverage and steel food cans are lined with the stuff.

My imperfect solution: I try to minimize processed foods (though I’m no champion at it, yet) and choose fresh foods that aren’t wrapped in plastic (when I can find them). I also look for BPA-free cans. And I always check my tea bag labels — since most tea bags are made of plastic!

My exception: We still use a pod-style coffee maker, but we buy the mesh pods that are biodegradable. No idea if they’re truly plastic free, but it makes us feel better, at least. A better solution would be a French press or stovetop percolator, neither of which use any plastic.

Bottled Water

I traded in plastic water bottles for reusable ones quite a while ago. Not only do plastic bottles cost more than tap water, roughly two-thirds of bottled water in the US is actually just repackaged tap water. I opted for a vacuum-insulated bottle, which is nice for keeping ice cold.

Note: If you’re worried about the quality of your tap water, check the EWG Tap Water Database, and consider a filter to further remove microplastics in the water supply. A reverse osmosis system is ideal. (We like this one from Waterdrop, but there are less-expensive alternatives, too.) Some water pitcher models also remove a large number of microplastics.

  • Cost for a reusable water bottle: $12

Cleaning Products

This is where I kind of lost interest. Yes, you can replace all of your plastic cleaning bottles with refillable ones, and get plant-based sponges and bamboo dish brushes (the Plastic Pollution Coalition recommends Blueland, Zero Waste Store and Meliora Cleaning Products). Tackling all of this would be great, especially to curb plastic pollution, and I hope to someday get to it.

But, in the meantime, I did get some Swedish dishcloths, which are made from cellulose and cotton, and ditched the dishwasher pods (which are wrapped in plastic) for powdered detergent.

  • Cost for Swedish dishcloth: $7

What I learned: There’s a lot of plastic under my sink!

The Verdict on Swapping out Kitchen Plastic

Going into this project, I believed it would be a straightforward task. I already had the correct cookware, wooden spoons, a reusable water bottle, and even canvas shopping bags.

And all of that helped. The total cost was a reasonable $177.

But, the time and effort to research replacement items was a bit more than I initially imagined. This lead me to reconsider my approach, to prevent feeling overwhelmed. Instead of ditching every bit of plastic in my kitchen, I embraced the 80/20 rule, which I’d learned from Stephanie Miller of Zero Waste in DC. The essence of her strategy is this: to create changes that will stick through the challenges of everyday life, don’t focus on 100% perfection, but rather on the 80% of changes that can make the biggest difference. That ended up being a key bit of advice toward success.

I also thought I might miss some of my plastic kitchenwares, but I don’t. Most of the non-plastic ones work just as well or better — plus when I use them, I’m not cringing, thinking about what might be going into my food.

That feels genuinely good. And even better for my soul is that now, when I walk into my kitchen, I know I’ve at least made an effort to reduce the amount of plastics getting into my family’s bodies, and the environment — and that’s empowering, especially in today’s world where many of us struggle with feelings of helplessness.

All in all, the project was absolutely worth the effort. But, it did open a sort of Pandora’s box. Once I started hunting down plastics in the kitchen, I started seeing them everywhere else: in our carpets, our clothes, our furniture cushions, and even our bedspread.

So hey, rest of my the house, I’m coming for you next!

I’ll let you know how it goes.

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Friday, July 17, 2026

If You See a Staircase That Leads Nowhere, Here’s What It Means

If you happen by a giant staircase in the middle of the open, no you’re not going crazy. While they may look unfinished, abandoned, out of place, or like something out of a Hollywood stunt set, odds are there’s a much more obvious reason for those bizarre staircases.

These unusual staircases, which usually are designed with no walls, rooms, or upper floor, are often built near fire stations. Learn what these unique staircases are, the important function they serve, and why they’re designed that way.

What Is a Fire Training Staircase?

Some larger fire stations in the United States feature these structures, also known as stair towers, drill towers, or training towers, as part of firefighting training.

They can be designed in different ways, but usually are simple exposed stair flights and platforms. Some are stand-alone structures while others are attached to other structures. Their open-air design allows training firefighters to focus on the difficult task of climbing stairs under heavy weight or unfavorable conditions.

Because firefighters often climb stairs while carrying hoses, rescue tools, medical equipment, breathing apparatuses, or other gear, it’s important for them to train in those rigorous locations. These training towers allow firefighters to practice these movements in a controlled environment, to build endurance, improve balance and footing, and learn different ways to conserve energy in these situations.

These stairs are also used for hose deployment drills, high-angle training exercises, rescue scenarios, and search exercises to simulate these conditions.

Why Are Fire Training Staircases Designed That Way?

Fire training staircases are designed for instructors to have clear visibility of firefighters during drills, which makes it easier to monitor technique, track performance, and identify potential safety concerns.

An open-air design also allows for training in different weather elements, like heat, humidity, rain, wind, or cold, to mimic real-life conditions while in an emergency scenario.

The design also allows fire departments to use the structure for a wider range of exercises. For instance, departments may also use these towers for other fitness training, stair climb events, and competitions to test endurance and strength. Those could be used by fire departments or shared with other first responders, public safety agencies, and training organizations as well to make use of the facility.

Where Are These Staircases Usually Located?

You’re most likely to see a firefighter training staircase at fire academies, public safety training campuses, firefighter training centers, and larger fire stations. Most are isolated structures, however some may be attached to a larger training facility that could replicate apartment buildings, offices, industrial sites, hotels, or high-rise buildings.

Those weird staircases that may look like they lead to nowhere aren’t actually out of place or unfinished. So the next time you see one, remember they serve a special purpose to prepare firefighters for the physical demands of real-world emergencies.

Sources

Fire Engineering, “The Ups and Downs of Understanding High-Rise Stairwells
Fire Training Structures, “How a Fire Training Tower Simulates Firefighting in High-Rise Buildings
Fire Facilities, “Firefighter Combat Challenge Stair Tower

RELATED:

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Stop Over-Cleaning: 10 Household Items That Actually Need Less (Or No) Attention

A wooden TV cabinet displays a black television, with decorative items like a vase and a speaker nearby, all set against a neutral wall.

Television and Computer Screens

While you may like to clean television and computer screens once a week or more, this can quickly lead to damage, especially if using cleaning products.

“Screens do not need to be cleaned as frequently as people usually think,” Erik Liang, founder of Crystal Clean, a residential and commercial cleaning company, says. “And using glass cleaner on modern screens will result in dissolving the anti-glare coating.”

He recommends using only a dry microfiber cloth to clean screens and a little water for tough-to-remove spots.

Small kitchen knife on wooden chopping board

Wooden cutting boards

Wooden cutting boards are a functional and beautiful kitchen tool, but should not be washed after every use. Frequent washing can cause wood fibers to swell and contract, leading to warped or cracked surfaces. To avoid this, skip a full wash after cutting things like bread and opt to brush crumbs away instead. Also, never wash cutting boards in the dishwasher or leave them soaking in the sink. Instead, hand wash with soap and water, then stand to fully dry before storing.

7 Reasons Your Phone Isn’t Charging Gettyimages 2172053677

Electrical outlets

Cleaning electrical outlets every time you dust or wipe down kitchen counters is unnecessary and potentially dangerous due to the risk of electric shock. “People tend to spray cleaner directly onto the faceplate, forgetting that there is a live socket right behind it,” Liang says. To clean safely, turn off the breaker and spray cleaning solution onto a rag, then wipe down the outlet. This can be done once a year unless heavily soiled.

Sofas, coffee table and wall art in modern living room

Artwork and paintings

Attempting to clean fine art and paintings yourself can quickly lead to damage. Using the wrong solvent or cleaner can remove paint layers, leave stains or cause cracking, rendering a painting worthless. It’s best to leave artwork cleaning to skilled professionals with the experience, tools and solvents to safely restore artwork to its original condition. To maintain artwork at home, dry dust once a month.

A white smoke detector is mounted on a ceiling, monitoring for smoke or fire in a clean, unobtrusive indoor environment.

Smoke detectors

Most manufacturers recommend cleaning smoke detectors once or twice a year to keep units dust free and operating properly. Anything more than that is too much and could damage sensors and lead to early failure. “Surprisingly, smoke detectors are cleaned incorrectly all the time,” Liang says. “They are sprayed with a cleaning detergent and the sensor ends up destroyed.” Instead, he recommends vacuuming vent holes and dusting the outer shell with a dry microfiber cloth.

Kitchen Appliance On Worktop

Countertop appliance base

Small appliances like coffee makers or blenders do not need to be cleaned daily or after every use. Using a really damp rag or lots of cleaner on these bases, especially this frequently, can damage motors or slowly corrode electrical parts. Liang suggests cleaning appliance bases after several uses, not every day, unless there’s a spill. Use a lightly dampened cloth with multipurpose spray.

Classic teapot

Antiques with original finishes

The value of an antique is often tied, in part, to the presence of its original finish or patina. Antique wood furniture and bronze or brass antiques are especially prized when their finishes are kept intact. For this reason, you should never clean these, but instead gently dust them to maintain their aged condition. “We never clean antiques because there’s a real risk of ruining the piece,” Ilya Ornatov, founder of NW Maids, a home cleaning service, says. “Dry dusting is the most we’ll do on these.”

A wooden cabinet with multiple drawers and doors stands against a plain wall, featuring a decorative bowl on top alongside some papers.

Wood furniture

If you’re cleaning and polishing wood furniture every week, consider cutting back to once a month. While it’s recommended to dust weekly, applying polish that often, especially products that contain silicone, can lead to a gummy build-up that actually attracts more dust. “Just use a microfiber cloth with a little bit of water,” Ornatov says. “And don’t polish it every week.” Furniture cleaners can dry out wood furniture, so apply these once a month as well.

Open electric oven with striped towel in kitchen. Cooking appliance

Self-cleaning Ovens

Self-cleaning oven settings are a convenient way to remove baked on grease, but shouldn’t be used more than a few times a year. Ovens reach temperatures of 800 to 1000 degrees during self-cleaning mode, which can actually cause damage. “A lot of people use the self-cleaning cycle on an oven way too much, even once a month,” Ornatov says. “It’s damaging to the oven’s components and the seal on the door if you do it this much.”

Here's Why Your Houseplants Stink Gettyimages 2154716373

Houseplants

Dust houseplant leaves once a month, but avoid cleaning them or polishing the leaves. “Using sprays that make the leaves shine can clog the pores of the plant,” Ornatov says. Don’t use mayonnaise, olive oil or milk to shine leaves either. While the leaves might look better in the short term, dust sticks to the shiny film, which lowers the plant’s ability to photosynthesize and increases the need to dust the leaves.

About the Experts

  • Ilya Ornatov is founder of NW Maids, a full-service house cleaning business in the Seattle metro area.
  • Erik Liang is founder and managing director of Crystal Clean, a residential and commercial cleaning company in Sydney, Australia.

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Thursday, July 16, 2026

This DIYer Turned Their Ordinary Bathroom Into a Lush Secret Garden Paradise

In Family Handyman‘s series DIY Diaries, real DIYers share the projects they’re most proud of. They recount the full story—from laying out the initial plans and wrestling with frustrating setbacks to celebrating their proudest moments. These candid accounts reveal the true ins and outs of DIY, and will leave you with practical tips that’ll give you the confidence to conquer your next build.

Sandy Lin is a DIYer who has always loved creating, experimenting with, and learning about different things. She got her start in the makeup sphere, but one day in 2025, she decided that she wanted to make her apartment feel more like a home. So she dove into the world of DIY. She loves making the things she has work for her rather than buying new items. In her words, “DIYing allows me to make things that are unique and budget-friendly.”

Lin draws inspiration from anything and everything. Her strategy involves having an idea of what’s possible for a space or a piece of furniture, and then tailoring it to suit her taste and needs. For this bathroom project, the inspiration came from a candle and some wallpaper. When she first smelled the candle, she envisioned a beautiful garden and wanted to bring that vibe to the bathroom. But she shelved the idea until she found the perfect wallpaper, at which point she combined the two. Her goal was to give the room the whimsical feel of the movie The Secret Garden.

The Project Stages

How long did it take you?

As of now, the bathroom still needs a few more pieces before it’s complete. Lin wants to work on the ceiling, the door trim, and find a good curtain for the shower before she declares the room finished. But so far the updates have taken roughly six days. The wallpaper was 15 hours of work spread over three days, and most of the other parts of this makeover take between a few hours and a full day on their own.

Were there any setbacks you had to overcome?

According to Lin, the wallpaper was a bit of a setback in and of itself because she’d never worked with a mural wallpaper prior to this project. The first day took much longer than originally planned, and having to work around the permanent fixtures ate up a lot of time.

What’s one aspect of this project that intimidated you until you tried it?

This wasn’t Lin’s first time working with wallpaper, but this time around it was a mural instead of a plain or simple pattern, and it was the whole room, not just a small wall. She describes the challenge as “intimidating, but not as scary as I thought it was going to be.” In fact, it turns out that aligning it from top to bottom wasn’t as hard as she had anticipated.

Are there any budgeting hacks you used in this project?

Lin was able to save some money on the project by getting creative with her materials. Instead of ripping out the old cabinet and installing a new one in the finish she wanted, she used contact paper. It’s renter-friendly and much cheaper. She also wasn’t afraid to think outside the box. While most bathrooms make use of a towel bar, Lin found that opting for wall hooks instead would be half the price and would offer more storage space.

Was there a specific moment during the project where you felt the most proud or accomplished?

The glass shelves Lin installed over the toilet ended up being a highlight of the project. Much like the wallpaper, they were intimidating at first. In order for them to work correctly, they had to be perfectly aligned and mounted. There was a lot of leveling involved, and the instructions didn’t give any measurements so Lin had to figure them all out herself. She says there were a few times where she did consider just asking a professional to do it. But she stuck with it, and was “just elated when all four corners popped in correctly.”

If you could have a do-over on this project, what would you change?

Lin says she’d do more research on the wallpaper ahead of time because it was such a big undertaking. Working in a bathroom in particular means taking into consideration more factors and working around more fixtures that simply doing one wall in a living room. But she says the upside of challenge like this is that “you get to experiment and learn on the go.”

Advice for Aspiring DIYers

Where would you tell someone to start if they want to learn how to DIY their own projects?

Lin says that the right tools are important and “having a kit with the necessities makes all the difference.” She wishes that she’d had a good drill bit back when she first started.

What project is next for you?

Next up, Lin plans on taking on the guest bathroom. She’s already spent time planning out where she wants to take it. This time around, she’s anticipating working with paint to refresh the space in an even more budget-friendly way. You can follow her journey on Instagram, @heysandylin.


Do you have a DIY project you’d like featured on Family Handyman? Email us your project at fhmfranchises@tmbi.com.

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Pet Waste Laws 101: Written and Unwritten Rules Every Good Neighbor Should Know

Picking up after your pets isn’t just the right thing to do morally. It can also have legal ramifications.

Pet poop laws vary from state to state and even city to city across the United States, which can catch some owners off guard if they’re not careful. Some community regulations go beyond just picking up waste, including specific rules and fines based on waste left in parks, on sidewalks, in shared spaces like community centers, in a neighbor’s yard, etc.

Understanding these rules helps pet owners avoid penalties (like fines or banishments), keep public spaces clean, and maintain positive relationships with neighbors and their community. Learn where these rules apply and how to properly dispose of pet waste.

Local Pet Poop Laws

Pet poop laws are dictated by each municipality, and sometimes neighborhood associations, not at the federal level.

“Pet owners should know that most cities and counties have laws in place requiring owners to clean up after their dogs while on public property or the property of others,” says Seann Malloy, Founder and Managing Partner of Malloy Law Offices. “Most of these rules originate in local ordinances, with noncompliance resulting in warnings or fines.”

Some communities also require dog owners to carry waste bags or another cleanup method while walking their pets.

“One surprise is that several communities require owners to carry a way of cleaning up after their pets,” Malloy says. “These rules differ from place to place, so always check your local ordinances.”

Park And Recreation Area Rules

In addition to a city’s ordinances, public parks may require owners to remove pet waste immediately at risk of a fine or removal from the park. Signage may indicate these rules, as well as areas where waste can be discarded. Many parks also provide sanitation bags for cleanup.

HOA And Community Regulations

Homeowners associations, more commonly referred to as HOAs, may also have specific regulations that supplement local laws. Those might include policies for shared lawns, walking paths, or other common areas.

Where Pet Poop Laws Apply

Pet poop laws generally apply to public spaces and violations on someone else’s private property. Examples of shared land include sidewalks and streets, parks or trails, community gardens, playgrounds, and other common areas maintained by a city, county, or homeowner’s association.

Examples of violations on private land can be leaving waste on a neighbor’s lawn, a commercial property, or within apartment complexes, condominiums, and other shared private residences with specific pet waste requirements through lease agreements or association rules.

What Are The Punishments For Not Picking Up Your Pet’s Poop?

Pet waste law violations typically result in a fine. The exact penalty varies by location, whether it is a first offense or additional violation, the number of animals involved, where the violation occurred, and the specific language of the local ordinance.

Whether a violation is enforced depends on whether the incident is noticed by local law enforcement, park staff, or documented by neighbors, property managers, or other non-government individuals.

The Right Way To Dispose Of Pet Waste At Home

Throwing away bagged pet waste in your own trash bin is the simplest way to avoid any confusion or legal issue.

“Unless there is a local government-approved method, the safest disposal of pet waste is to bag it securely and put it in the trash,” Malloy says.

Even in your own yard, pet waste should not be left for extensive periods. In addition to unpleasant odors, waste can create sanitation concerns and neighborhood complaints.

FAQ

What Do You Do If Your Neighbor Isn’t Picking Up Their Pet’s Poop?

If a neighbor’s dog is pooping in your yard, or another communal space, the first step is to have a civil conversation to address the issue.

“Document and address it respectfully when a neighbor leaves their dog’s waste,” Malloy says. “If the issue persists, homeowners may be able to lodge complaints with their HOA or property manager, animal control office, or the city code enforcement office. Documenting it may assist local authorities if they pursue an investigation of a pattern of violation.”

Can You Put Pet Poop In Someone Else’s Trash Bin?

Homeowners may view it as improper use of private property and may have legal grounds to complain based on local laws. It’s better to wait and dispose of waste in public waste receptacles or at home.

Sources

Interviewed Source

Seann Malloy, Founder and Managing Partner, Malloy Law Offices

Other Primary Sources

American Veterinary Medical Association: Pet Ownership Resources
US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA): Pet Waste Management
US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC): Healthy Pets, Healthy People

RELATED:

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Tuesday, July 14, 2026

If You See Squiggly Camo on a Car, There’s Actually a Good Reason for It

Did you know that over half of all the cars on the road are either white, black, silver or grey? Sure, brighter colors catch the eye more often, but the majority of the cars you see on the road fit into an alarmingly greyscale color scheme. These mundane paint jobs can make certain cars on the road barely even register to the human eye.

That means the opposite is also true… any car with a unique paint job is most likely going to stick in your memory. And if you’ve ever seen a car with a certain “squiggly” camo on it out on the open road, chances are you’re much more likely to remember that sighting over, say, a more ubiquitous silver KIA.

But what does this rare, spiraling, eye-catching paint job even mean? Let’s take a look at the design choice car companies ironically refer to as “camouflage” and inspect what purpose it truly serves.

Camouflaged Test Cars

There’s no denying that car enthusiasts can sometimes put some pretty wild wraps and decals on their vehicles. They do this because they want to stand out as proud automobile owners, showcasing their prized possession as they drive it through the world.

Interestingly, car companies put wild, detailed wraps on their car for a nearly opposite reason: they don’t want people looking too close. If you see a car with squiggly camo featuring intricate patterns and looping, almost runic lines, chances are it’s a prototype vehicle being tested on the open road.

Here’s how it works. Car companies and auto developers put a lot of money and resources into developing new technologies and body styles. Sure, they’ve got closed testing facilities. But eventually, cars need to be tested on real roads under real conditions.

That’s where the camo comes in. By putting these detailed wraps on their prototype vehicles, auto developers are essentially able to create an optical illusion on the surface of the vehicle itself. That means that if someone were to photograph the prototype, certain lines, contours and features would be much harder to spot or actively replicate based on that flat 2D-image.

Of course, these crazy paint jobs also make these prototypes stand out like a sore thumb. to any other drivers on the road. But that’s a smaller price to pay if it means combating the very real world of corporate automobile espionage.

Related

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12 Strategies to Protect Your Home from Fire, According to Industry Pros

dry leaves in a roof gutter

Maintain the Roof and Gutters

Each spring and fall, clear dry leaves, pine needles and other debris from your gutters, roof valleys and chimneys. This will prevent embers from catching them on fire.

“This is one of the most frequently skipped fire protection measures,” says roofer Daniel Cabrera. “And there are no costs involved, except for some time.” Or, if you feel more comfortable, you can hire a pro, which will likely cost $300 or more, depending on the size and complexity of your roof.

exterior home vent with a mesh screen

Add Screens to Block Embers

Even if a fire is a mile away, windblown embers can reach your home and fall through vents and other gaps, where they then start fires on the inside. To help prevent this, add mesh screens to possible entry points, such as holes around utility pipes, as well as vents in the soffits, gables and roof.

“The goal is not to block ventilation, but to make sure the attic can breathe without giving embers an easy way in,” says Riley.

pile of firewood logs on the back porch of a house

Create Defensible Space

Clear all flammable materials within five feet of your home. That includes pruning bushes and trees, removing weeds, firewood and dry leaves and replacing mulch with gravel or pavers. Also, look at what’s touching your house.

“Wood fences, decks and pergolas can act like a fuse leading right to the structure,” says Riley. “Even a small noncombustible break between a wood fence and the house can help.”

black front door of a house with brick and stone siding

Upgrade Siding

If you’re planning a remodel, consider adding fire-resistant siding such as fiber cement, stucco, brick, stone or masonry. “

Fiber cement is one of the most practical options for a lot of homeowners because it gives you the look of wood siding without using a combustible wood product,” says Riley. Of course, it’s also important to choose a material suited to your geographical location, weather and aesthetic tastes.

close up of a worker's hand installing fiber cement siding

Check Siding Installation

Similarly to roofs, fire-resistant siding can also be compromised by shoddy craftsmanship during the installation. If you’re having new siding installed, check to make sure it’s free from gaps, exposed wood trim, poorly detailed seams and bad transitions around windows, doors and eaves.

“Those can create weak points even when the siding product itself is fire-resistant,” says Riley.

high angle drone image of a roof with barrel vent and asphalt shingles

Upgrade Roofing

When it’s time to get a new roof, choose a Class A fire-rated roofing material.

“The roof is the largest single exposed surface on a house, hence fire-resistant roofing is the biggest change in terms of fire protection,” says Cabrera. “It’s especially essential for owners who have wood shake roofs to replace their roof first.”

Typical Class A materials include metal, clay and concrete tiles, slate, asphalt shingles and some synthetics, but be sure to ask specifically for Class A-certified brands.

Worker using power tools to secure metal roofing panels on building

Check Roof Craftsmanship

A fire-rated roof is only part of the picture. It’s also vital to have a high-quality installation, complete with well-orchestrated underlayment, decking, flashing, vents, penetrations and roof edges.

“If those details are wrong, the fire rating on the brochure does not mean nearly as much,” says Riley. “The difference is using a contractor that has been in business for a long time and actually knows what they’re doing.”

close up of an indoor smoke alarm

Maintain Smoke Alarms and Fire Extinguishers

Install smoke alarms and fire extinguishers in key areas around the house, especially the kitchen, garage and bedrooms. Test smoke alarms once a month, and change batteries at least once a year.

“And learn how to use fire extinguishers before an emergency occurs,” says restoration expert Josh Miller. “Also, a common misconception is that extinguishers last forever. They should be inspected regularly and replaced or serviced as needed.”

close up of intumescent coating

Use Fire-Resistant Building Materials

When remodeling interior spaces, choose wall, insulation and flooring materials with higher fire resistance, including opting for intumescent paint, which expands to form a protective char when exposed to heat or flames.

“Prioritize high-risk areas such as kitchens and utility rooms,” says Miller. Also, swap hollow doors for solid core ones with self-closing hinges, and resist the habit of propping them open.

coffee table and sofa in front of a window with curtains opened

Use Fire-Resistant Furniture and Curtains

Soft furnishings can ignite fast, and most people underestimate how quickly that happens, says home decor expert Matt Little. Swapping standard drapes and upholstery for fire-retardant-rated (FR-rated) models could buy your family several extra minutes before a room fully ignites.

“I started replacing drapes room by room, and I noticed how much faster a safe exit could become when the room isn’t engulfed within two minutes,” he says.

close up of mineral wool wall insulation

Seal Indoor Gaps

“Wall cavities are invisible fire highways that run straight up through your interior walls,” says Little. “They feed flames upward faster than any exposed surface in your home.”

To help slow this down, block gaps in interior walls with fire-stop foam or mineral wool. Bajda also recommends sealing gaps around pipes and wires with fire-rated caulk. “Most people skip this step completely, but it only costs about $10 a tube, and closes the holes that let smoke spread fast,” he says.

electrician checking the circuit of an outdoor power outlet near an air conditioning unit

Inspect Indoor Systems

Routine maintenance and inspection of appliances and electrical and HVAC systems can catch potential hazards early. For added security, have an electrician audit your wiring and circuit loads.

“Wiring faults, overloaded circuits and degraded insulation inside walls are among the most consistently underestimated fire risks I find on electrical inspections, and most homeowners have no idea the problem exists until a circuit trips or they notice a smell near a switchboard,” says plumbing and electrical expert Kameron Khan.

FAQ

What are the best fire-resistant building materials for siding and roofing?

For roofing, look for Class A fire-rated materials, such as asphalt shingles with fiberglass mat, metal roofing, tile, slate, concrete or clay tiles and some synthetic products. For siding, good choices are fiber cement, stucco, stone and brick and other masonry.

Are there fire-resistant insurance discounts or building incentives available?

Yes, depending on the carrier, some offer significant discounts for fire-resistant roofing and siding materials, interior and exterior fire protection features and defensible space improvements.

“In many wildfire-risk markets, they also increasingly determine whether standard insurance is available at all, rather than simply how expensive it is,” says insurance expert Brad Spurgeon. But, ”before you spend money retrofitting, speak with your insurance carrier or independent agent [to learn] which mitigations apply to your policy and area.”

About the Experts

  • Nicholas Riley is owner of Driftwood Builders Roofing, a 5-star-rated GAF Master Elite roofing contractor in Austin.
  • Lo Choe is a licensed fire and electrical safety contractor with more than 27 years of experience, and owner of Aura Fire Safety in the San Francisco Bay area.
  • Daniel Cabrera is owner and founder of Roof Direct San Antonio, and has 16 years of experience installing roofs.
  • Brad Spurgeon is owner and CEO of Brad Spurgeon Insurance Agency Inc. (BSIA Inc.), which has specialized in homeowners, windstorm and flood insurance along the Gulf Coast of Texas since 1986.
  • Josh Miller, CFE, CR, is president of Rainbow Restoration, a Neighborly company, and has been in the restoration industry for more than 20 years.
  • Chris Bajda is an e-commerce entrepreneur and managing partner of GroomsDay.
  • Kameron Khan is founder and managing director of SilverWater Plumbing in Sydney, Australia, and is licensed for residential and commercial electrical installations and fire safety compliance.
  • Matt Little is founder and managing director of Festoon House, and has eight years of experience designing high-load electrical systems.

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