How Old Is Too Old To Use a Chainsaw?

While you may take great pride in your ability to take care of things around the house, be careful when it comes to using a chainsaw as you age. Unlike other powered lawn equipment, chainsaws carry a significant risk of personal injury— and can be deadly in the wrong hands.

Ahead, learn how to evaluate when you may be too old to operate a chainsaw and should call in a pro instead, with help from physical therapist Dr. Ron Miller and manual therapist Doug Bertram.

Risks of Using a Chainsaw as You Age

Chainsaw injuries can happen in a fraction of a second and are often due to losing control of the saw during operation. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention reports roughly 36,000 chainsaw injuries each year, resulting in serious lacerations, traumatic brain injuries, limb loss or death. 

While chainsaws are dangerous to operate at any age, the risks are even higher for older adults. “As we grow older, our ability to control our balance, grip strength, reflex times, eyesight and physical stamina dramatically decreases,” Miller says. “This makes it difficult to operate chainsaws.” It’s crucial that you have the strength and stamina to handle a chainsaw in all conditions to avoid injury. 

Tips for Using a Chainsaw Safely as You Age

If you’re not ready to put down the saw yet, consider these tips to do it safely. 

Focus on small projects

Cut smaller logs and branches that are safely on the ground and avoid cutting while on a ladder or felling trees. Hire larger jobs out rather than tackling them yourself.   

Opt for a lighter saw

Consider using a lightweight, electric saw that is easier to control. Regardless of the saw, always make sure the chain is sharp and properly tightened before use. 

Follow safe practices:

Wear protective gear: Wearing eye and hearing protection, gloves and sturdy footwear is always sound advice, but don’t overlook chaps too, Miller says. Worn over pants and designed to stop a chainsaw chain, chaps can be the difference between a fatal injury and a superficial wound.

Never cut alone: Always have a cutting partner who remains nearby to help identify dangerous situations and call for help in the event of an accident. 

Avoid working to fatigue: “Take breaks to stay awake and alert while operating a chainsaw,” Miller says. Stay well hydrated and fueled to keep your mind sharp during operation and stop when you start to feel tired.

So…. How Old Is Too Old To Use a Chainsaw?

“There’s no age that makes you too old to use a chainsaw,” Bertram says. “[But] you need adequate grip strength, adequate balance and good mental acuity.” It’s less about a specific number and more about your general health and ability. Conduct these physical fitness tests at home to gauge your grip strength, balance, leg and back strength, coordination and endurance. How you perform on these tests will give you a good idea of your functional fitness levels and whether handling a chainsaw is a good idea or not.  When in doubt, hire a pro. 

FAQ

What are some safer alternatives to chainsaws?

For smaller limbs and logs up to 12-in. in diameter, a bow saw or reciprocating saw with a pruning blade are lower risk options.   

Is there an age limit for using a chainsaw?

Federal law prohibits anyone under the age of 18 from operating a chainsaw in a work setting, but there are no age limits for private chainsaw use on a residential property.

About the Experts

• Dr. Ron Miller is a doctor of physical therapy and the owner of Pursuit Physical Therapy in Orlando, Florida.
• Doug Bertram is a manual therapist, licensed acupuncturist and CEO of Structural Elements, a national franchise providing orthopedic wellness care. 

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We Tested Ryobi’s $129 Pressure Washer — Here’s What It Can (and Can’t) Do

Nothing sets you up for a better spring than taking some time for some seasonal cleaning in the fall, and one of the best tools for autumn home cleanup is a classic pressure washer. If you’ve got a surface or a screen you need sprayed, a pressure washer can deliver enough pressure for all kinds of scrubbing.

But even the most avid pressure washer advocates would tell you they’re also pretty cumbersome tools that require a lot of setup and garage storage space. That’s exactly why I wanted to try out this portable pressurized washer from Ryobi. The concept is intriguing, promising users a fraction of the size, cost and power of a standard pressure washer. I was very curious whether this tool would actually provide more cleaning power than a standard garden hose nozzle.

VIA MERCHANT

ONE+ 18V 700 PSI Cordless Cold Water Electric Power Cleaner

$129 at the Home Depot

The Tool

The first thing I noticed when unboxing the Ryobi One Plus Electric Power Cleaner was how substantial the tool felt. I was expecting it to feel a little flimsy, but the tool felt well-built in my hands. It all assembled easily in just a few clicks, taking only a small fraction of the time it would’ve taken to set up a full-size pressure washer. And if you’re worried about water ruining your battery, don’t be. The entire battery chamber is enclosed by a tightly sealed plastic housing.

How We Tested It

For this test, I decided to replicate a classic fall cleanup task: hosing down screens. I wanted a big surface to clean, so I pulled the screen door off the back door and set it up in the backyard. Then, I applied a light coating of flour to the middle of the screen and a light mist of water to lock the flour in place.

From there, I just had to finish setting up the Ryobi pressure washer. It comes with three different nozzles: two flat angled nozzles and one “turbo nozzle” that sprays the water in a speedy spiral. All I had to do was attach the pressure washer to a garden hose, and the tool was ready to go. Then I just set myself up in front of the screen with the pressure washer the recommended distance (1-2 feet) from the screen. ‘

All that was left to do was let it rip. The first thing that stands out when you use this portable pressure washer is that it feels a little underwhelming when you pull the trigger- especially if you’ve ever used a full-sized pressure washer. There’s not much kick, and the water leaves the nozzle at a steady but uninspiring speed. For a few seconds, I was worried the 700psi of pressure wouldn’t be enough to clean up the floury mess I’d created.

But my worries lessened the longer I used the tool. It was gentler than the pressure washers I’d used before, but it provided a consistent stream that quickly started knocking the flour loose from the screen. Things started going even better once I switched to the turbo nozzle. The spin action really helped compensate for the lack of PSI pressure. Within another minute, I had knocked off a ton of the sticky flour from the screen.

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The Verdict

So enough waffling… what’s the verdict? It’s pretty clear, as soon as you start using this tool, that the Ryobi tool isn’t going to fully replace a full-sized pressure washer… especially if you need to really blast something. But there are many use cases for a pressure washer where consistency is more important than power. And if you’ve ever accidentally damaged something with a pressure washer, the reduced power of this tool might even be something you consider a pro.

It took a while, but eventually the screen was sparkling clean- so clean, in fact, it was nearly invisible in the doorway. I should also point out that real-world conditions are rarely as messy as the sticky flour mess I created. If you just need to get dust off a screen or mud off a sidewalk, this tool is a significant upgrade over a simple stream from a garden hose. Ultimately, you’re trading power for portability, and whether that works for you will depend on the job you have to tackle. If it’s only needed for routine seasonal cleaning, this pressure washer could be perfect for you.

Just don’t expect it to peel paint off a pole.

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I Thought I Wanted a Single-Family Home. Turns Out, I Missed the Rental Income

I’ve always had benchmarks for knowing when I’ve “made it” in life: a car with power windows and locks, a refrigerator with a water dispenser and owning a single-family home. The last one stems from the fact that my wife and I always owned two-family homes. We lived in one unit and rented out the other for over a decade before we finally had the means to move into a single-family home.

But the funny thing was, when we finally got there, something was missing. Our single-family home didn’t feel as rewarding as I thought it would. Ahead, I share why this long-sought-after dream house didn’t quite feel like one and how a new Massachusetts law allowed us to add the missing piece to our family’s forever home.

Finding Financial Freedom in a Two-Family Home

After 10 years of renting, my wife and I wanted to buy a home. We decided on a two-family property because we were nervous about taking on too much financially. A single-family home seemed like a luxury that was out of reach, but the rental income from a two-family home made homeownership seem feasible and financially safe. Collecting that first rent check was an amazing feeling, and it cut our mortgage payment in half. We were hooked. Being landlords wasn’t always stress-free, but regular rental income gave us so much financial freedom. 

Chasing the Single-Family Dream

Seven years later, we moved into another two-family home that better suited our growing family and kept the first one, too. We continued to work and save for another five years. As we approached 40, buying a single-family home felt like the next logical step. It was the ultimate end goal, right? So we bought a single-family fixer-upper in a nice neighborhood and started making repairs. Our kids settled into a new school district, and we made friends with the neighbors.

At first, it all felt great, but living in a single-family home wasn’t everything we’d hoped it would be. Mostly, we found we really missed the rental income we were used to in our two-family homes. It felt foolish to have a house that only took money out of our bank account without putting any back in. We didn’t want to move, and soaring home prices made buying another property out of the question. To find ways to generate income from our property, I tried renting out our in-ground pool, second garage, and backyard to dog owners. None of those ideas panned out, leaving us without a way to recreate the two-family experience we missed.

A New Law, A New Opportunity

Then, in August 2024, Massachusetts enacted a new law to encourage homeowners to build accessory dwelling units (ADUs), or in-law apartments, to ease the state’s housing shortage. These secondary, self-contained living spaces, complete with kitchens and bathrooms, can house extended family members or paying tenants.

My wife and I immediately knew this could be the solution we’d been looking for. Instead of moving to a two-family home, we could add a small apartment to our existing home. We considered our options and decided that converting a portion of our house into a one-bedroom apartment was the most cost-effective. 

We researched town and state ordinances and building codes, then applied for a building permit and submitted plans for the proposed project. Because we weren’t changing the footprint of our home, the process went very smoothly. We started the work in August and had everything completed and inspected by December 2024. We received a certificate of occupancy from the town, and our first tenant moved in on January 1, 2025.

Nearly two years later, we have absolutely no regrets about our ADU conversion project. The rental income has been a fantastic addition to our monthly budget, and we’ve had amazing tenants from the start. It has been the missing piece of our dream home and is making a more secure financial future possible for our family.

Tips for Adding an ADU: Is It Worth It?

If you’re considering adding an ADU to your home or property, here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Check state and local laws: Start by researching your town or city’s ordinances and regulations to determine whether adding an ADU is allowed.
• Assess costs versus income: Our project cost around $55,000, and we currently collect $1,725 each month, or $20,700 per year, in rent. At that rate, it will take us about two and a half years to recoup the project’s cost. For us, it was well worth the investment.
• Consult an electrician early: I was surprised by the need to upgrade our electrical panel. If you’re considering a similar project, consult an electrician early in the process to assess your current electrical capacity and determine what upgrades might be necessary.
• Plan carefully: Consider your privacy and make it a priority when planning your ADU. Do you want to see your tenant every time you walk to your car or relax in your yard? Think about how your daily life and use of your property might change once the ADU is occupied.
• Make sure you’re ready to be a landlord: My wife and I had been landlords for 15 years when we began this project. We knew what we were getting into and how to make it a positive experience. There are plenty of stories about nightmare tenants and nasty evictions, and trust me, you don’t want to end up in a situation like that, especially in your own home.

A Better Investment

While we had been happy in a two-family home, we mistakenly thought we could do better. But after moving into what was supposed to be our perfect, single-family home, we realized we had made a mistake. Our “dream” house began to feel like a financial burden that only sucked up money and never gave anything back. Staying put and adding a small apartment has given us so much more breathing room and transformed our forever home from a burden into a boon. 

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Bonfire Dos and Don’ts Every Backyard Fire Builder Should Know This Fall

DO: Make Sure It’s Legal

Notify your local fire department of your plans and ask them for guidance concerning:

• Whether you need a permit,
• The minimum distance the bonfire can be from structures,
• Fire size restrictions,
• Whether brush can be burned, and
• If there are temporary burn bans in effect due to fire danger or air pollution.

“One phone call to the fire marshal’s office takes two minutes,” says fire and home safety expert Eugene Klimaszewski. “Otherwise, the consequence of burning without a permit on a restricted day is a fine, and if it gets away from you, it’s your liability.”

DO: Choose the Right Location

Look for a flat, open spot away from fences, barns, houses, trees and ground vegetation. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommends keeping bonfires at least 25 feet from the house and other structures.

“That number isn’t arbitrary,” says Klimaszewski. “Radiant heat and drifting embers are what ignite a deck railing, a vinyl fence or the mulch bed against the house. Every ember that lands on a roof or in a gutter full of dry leaves is a coin flip. Most go out. The one that doesn’t becomes a structure fire.”

DON’T: Forget About the Smoke

Build the fire downwind of your home and close all windows and doors on the fire side, to prevent smoke from getting in.

“Even a small amount of smoke reaching an indoor smoke detector is enough to set it off,” says Klimaszewski. If you have a monitoring system, that could trigger a call to the fire department. “At best that’s an embarrassing conversation with the engine company. In towns that charge for repeat false alarms, that’s a bill on top of the embarrassment,” he says.

Pro-tip: If you have an older home, which isn’t airtight, put your alarm system on test mode or notify your monitoring company about your bonfire plans.

DON’T: Burn on Windy Days

Wind can carry embers up to a mile, which means a bonfire on a windy day can easily end with a wildfire or house fire. If your planned bonfire day turns out to be windy, reschedule it. And even if there isn’t a breeze, plan for one by clearing all debris from around the fire pit and building rocks or bricks up higher on the windy side, which protects the fire from the wind plus radiates heat toward you for extra warmth.

DO: Choose Wood Wisely

Kiln-dried wood is the best. Seasoned hardwoods like oak, cedar and hickory are particularly good because they burn cleaner, longer and hotter than soft woods like pine and aspen (though a little soft wood kindling makes starting a fire a lot easier).

Woods to avoid include:

• Alder, poplar and willow;
• Rotten, damp or moldy wood, which will create excessive smoke and popping embers;
• Driftwood, painted wood and treated wood, as the fumes are poisonous.

DON’T: Use Accelerants

Steer clear of gasoline or other accelerants, as they too often lead to burn injuries, out-of-control fires and noxious fumes. (One year, my neighbor used so much gasoline to start a bonfire that the resulting shock wave from the explosion knocked pictures off of people’s walls three blocks away).

“A lot of people think they can use gas or lighter fluid to get the fire started or revive it, but please never do that because the vapors can flash back and get everyone nearby,” says Henrichson. “Gasoline is particularly dangerous and should never be used to start or revive a fire.”

Pro-tip: If you struggling to start a fire, build up a good kindling base and use a campfire starter or small bit of tightly twisted newspaper. Ample kindling will help you get a hot coal-bed established, which will burn larger logs more effectively plus lessen smoke.

DON’T: Burn Anything Other than Wood

Avoid newspaper, cardboard and other paper products, which tend to break down into large flying embers. Also, never burn anything with adhesives, plastics and other chemicals. The health risks of this are obvious, but plastics and chemicals are hiding in many items you might not realize, including: dryer lint, food packaging with shiny ink, glossy magazines, pressed woods including butcher block, varnished furniture and clothing made with synthetic fibers.

DO: Keep Water Within Arm’s Reach

Before lighting the fire, set up a water source in case embers become a problem. That will also make it easier to put it out completely when you’re done. NFPA actually requires a hose, bucket or extinguisher be on hand for all recreational fires, and for fires to be attended at all times.

“A fire that’s left alone for ten minutes while everyone goes inside for more drinks is the one that ends up on the local news,” says Klimaszewski. “And an unattended fire that spreads is the homeowner’s liability, full stop.”

DO: Designate a Fire Supervisor

Assign someone to supervise the flames at all times to prevent the fire from getting out of control, and to keep kids and pets from standing too close. Equip the supervisor with proper protective clothing, including a fire-resistant glove, long-handled poker tool, shovel, closed-toe shoes and eye protection.

“The most common injuries I’ve seen are from people falling into the fire, and young children are vulnerable to this because they may want to play in the area where everyone is hanging out by the fire,” says Henrichson. “There should be a no-enter zone that is explained to children every single time, and the person tending the fire should not have any alcohol.”

DO: Pay Attention and Have a Plan

Watch for loose sleeves, blankets, boots and other combustibles that are too close to the fire. “Those fun marshmallow-roasting memories are great to make, but shaking a burning marshmallow can cause trouble, and if you use metal skewers, they can burn you too,” says Henrichson.

Also, know what to do beforehand if something ends up catching fire. “The old advice that we were told years ago is still true: stop, drop, and roll if your clothes catch fire,” says Henrichson. “Repeat this as necessary every time kids approach, because they don’t always know to stay back.”

DO: Put It Out Cold When You’re Done

Embers can easily reignite hours or even days later, so the best practice for putting out a bonfire is to drown it, stir the ashes, and then drown it again until everything is cold to the touch. Don’t cover embers with dirt, as that actually insulates them, leaving open the possibility for them to reignite if they’re uncovered by a stiff wind.

Pro-tip: Put ashes in a metal container with a lid, on a non-combustible surface, away from the house, garage and deck for several days before they go in the trash, says Klimaszewski. Never put them in a plastic bin or next to the house.

About the Experts

• Kevin Henrichson is a board-certified attorney and partner at Byrd Davis Alden & Henrichson, LLP, where he handles burn injury cases.
• Eugene Klimaszewski is founder and president of Mammoth Security Inc., a Connecticut fire alarm and security company which installs, inspects and monitors fire alarm systems, plus fields the false-alarm calls that come with bonfire season.
• Experts at the National Fire Protection Association also contributed to this article.

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Why Do Construction Barricades Come in Different Colors?

Red Barricades and Signs Warn of Dangerous Areas

There’s a reason red is a common choice for warning signs. OSHA uses it to identify danger, emergency stops, and fire protection equipment. At a construction site, a red “Danger” sign might warn of exposed electrical equipment or another hazard that could cause serious injury. OSHA’s general-industry rules also call for red warning lights at barricades and temporary obstructions.

Yellow Caution Tape Warns of Potential Hazards

Of all the safety colors, yellow might be the one people see most often. It shows up on caution tape, warning signs, and around areas where crews are working. OSHA uses yellow to warn of physical hazards, including falls and falling objects. A damaged walkway or an area undergoing maintenance might have yellow tape around it.

Orange Barricades Warn of Hazards and Construction Work

There’s no shortage of orange around construction sites. On workplace warning signs, the color often identifies hazards that could cause serious injury, particularly around machinery or equipment undergoing repairs. Orange also makes road construction easier to spot. Crews use orange barriers and signs to warn drivers about upcoming work, lane changes, or other temporary traffic conditions.

Green Signs Mark First Aid and Safety Equipment

Instead of warning people away from something, it usually helps them find safety equipment. A green sign might point toward a first aid station, identify emergency equipment, or provide instructions for workers. It’s especially useful in workplaces where people need to find these resources quickly.

Blue Safety Signs Provide Workplace Notices

Blue signs typically provide information about workplace equipment or procedures that don’t directly involve a hazard. For example, a blue notice might explain that a machine is temporarily out of service. Unlike red or yellow warnings, blue notices generally provide information rather than warn of immediate danger.

Purple Warning Signs Identify Radiation Hazards

Purple isn’t a color people encounter very often on construction barricades, but it does have a specific safety use. OSHA requires certain radiation warning signs to feature the familiar radiation symbol in purple or magenta against a yellow background. These signs warn people about radiation hazards, including areas where access may be restricted.

Orange-and-White Striped Barricades Mark Roadwork and Closures

Those orange-and-white striped barricades lining roads and highways aren’t quite the same as the warning signs used inside workplaces. The Federal Highway Administration has separate rules for these barriers, which crews use to close lanes, block roads, and direct traffic around construction.

There’s also a purpose behind the diagonal stripes. When a barricade directs drivers around an obstruction, the stripes slope down toward the side where traffic should pass.

Sources

OSHA, “29 CFR 1910.144, Safety Color Code for Marking Physical Hazards”
OSHA, “29 CFR 1926.200, Accident Prevention Signs and Tags”
ANSI, “Z535.1-2022: Standard for Safety Colors”
ANSI, “Z535.5-2022: Safety Tags and Barricade Tapes”
OSHA, “29 CFR 1910.1096, Ionizing Radiation”
FHWA, “Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices, 11th Edition with Revision 1”

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Why You Should Pay Attention to Diamond-Shaped Signs on Trucks

Drivers have a lot to pay attention to on the road. They watch their speed, check their mirrors, and keep an eye out for sudden stops. But one detail most drivers probably haven’t given much thought to is the diamond-shaped designs on the back of trucks, even after seeing them countless times.

No, they aren’t decorations. It’s a small detail that serves an important safety purpose, especially if there’s an accident involving dangerous cargo. Learn how the holders work, what the warning signs mean, and why some appear empty.

What Do the Diamond-Shaped Plates on the Back of Trucks Mean?

They’re called hazmat placard holders. These metal frames hold warning signs that identify certain hazardous materials a truck might be carrying. The bare diamond in the photo is simply a holder. Its lines and clips don’t send any special message to other drivers.

Truck operators leave the holders attached and change the signs depending on their cargo. Some hold removable placards, while others have several signs that drivers can flip between. Labelmaster, a company that makes flip-placard systems, explains that drivers can change the warning without replacing the holder.

The placards use colors, words, and symbols to identify different hazards. Red often indicates flammable materials, while a black-and-white sign marked “CORROSIVE” warns about chemicals that can cause damage. Other signs identify dangerous gases, explosives, or toxic substances.

“Placards serve as an easily identifiable, visual source of information used by millions of workers in the transportation, public safety, and hazmat industries,” according to the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration (PHMSA).

These warnings help emergency responders recognize potential hazards during an accident or spill. Some placards also display numbers that identify specific hazardous materials.

Why Do Some Trucks Have Empty Diamond-Shaped Hazmat Placard Holders?

An empty holder may mean the truck doesn’t need to display a warning for its current shipment. Trucking companies leave the frames attached because their vehicles might carry different types of cargo from one trip to the next. An empty holder doesn’t necessarily mean the truck isn’t carrying hazardous materials, though. Federal regulations don’t require placards for every hazardous material or quantity.

When trucks do need placards, PHMSA requires them on both sides and both ends of the vehicle. Carriers must also keep the signs secure, readable, and visible. Federal regulations also prohibit misleading signs that resemble official hazmat placards. The rules specifically mention “Any sign, advertisement, slogan (such as ‘Drive Safely’), or device” that could be confused with an official warning placard.

A bare metal diamond, however, isn’t a hazard warning by itself. It’s simply a holder for the appropriate sign when the truck needs one.

Sources

U.S. Department of Transportation, Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration, “Identifying Hazardous Materials in Your Community”
PHMSA, “DOT Chart 17: Markings, Labeling, and Placarding Guide”
Labelmaster:, “Flip Placards”
49 CFR § 172.516, “Visibility and Display of Placards”
49 CFR § 172.502, “Prohibited and Permissive Placarding“

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Pamela Anderson’s Best Garden & Landscaping Tips, Straight From Her Backyard

In Pamela’s Garden of Eden, Pamela Anderson transforms her grandparents’ former property into a peaceful, sustainable retreat. In the second episode, Anderson and her team reimagine the landscape surrounding the “roadhouse,” a tree-shaded home with plenty of character but an undefined entrance and overgrown gardens.

By rethinking how visitors move through the space—from the first step onto the property to the front door—they create a lush landscape that’s both welcoming and romantic. Here are a few ideas worth borrowing for your own yard.

Create a Welcoming Entry

A latticed wooden arch sets a clear threshold, making the transition into the garden feel inviting and purposeful rather than purely decorative.

Skip Perfectly Straight Paths

Flagstone pavers set in an irregular pattern create a path that feels naturally worn rather than newly laid.

Save Existing Plants

A landscape refresh doesn’t have to mean starting over. Anderson and her team transplanted existing plants with their roots intact, preserving established growth while reshaping the layout.

Add Interest with Outdoor Textiles

What could have been an all-white patio setup is elevated with subtle patterns and soft colors, adding personality without overpowering the space.

Refresh with Paint

Swapping gray trim for white and introducing black window frames adds contrast and gives the exterior an updated look without structural changes or a major investment.

Watch Pamela’s Garden of Eden! Follow along with Anderson’s “roadhouse” renovation and other projects on At Home with Family Handyman, streaming free on Samsung TV Plus, the Roku Channel and more.

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