How To Spot a Flood-Damaged Car Before You Buy It

With the average cost of a new car approaching $50,000, it can make more financial sense to buy used. But, while the lower price point is appealing, mechanic David Martin says to shop carefully and to check any used car for signs of flooding. “Engine computers, sensors, electrical connectors and wiring are vulnerable to corrosion, expensive to fix and could endanger lives,” he says. Not all cars that have been in a flood will be given a flood title, and unscrupulous sellers will mask this fact from would-be buyers. Ahead, learn how to tell if you’re buying a flood-damaged car, with expert-backed advice from Martin. 

Check for Water, Mud and Musty Odors

Use your nose to detect water damage inside the vehicle. “If the car smells musty or moldy, watch out,” Martin says. “Also, pay attention to cars that have strong air freshener or detergent scents. They could be used to mask flood-related mildew.” Additionally, look for silt or mud in glove compartments or under seats where it may have been overlooked during cleaning. Finding it is a tell-tale sign the car has been flooded. Also look carefully for condensation behind instrument panels and interior and exterior lights.

Look for Rust and Corrosion

Check for any rust or flaking metal on the car’s underside, especially on brake lines and around the fuel tank, Martin says. Lift the hood and look for corrosion on the battery terminals and engine components, then open the car doors and inspect the door hinges for signs of rust. 

Check the Upholstery and Carpeting

Vehicle upholstery and carpeting can reveal signs of flooding. Feel for dampness and look for stains, as well as loose, wrinkled or buckled carpeting. Additionally, pull seat belts all the way out to check for stains, mildew or mud and look for mismatched or recently replaced carpeting and upholstery.

Test the Electronics

Turn on the car and do a thorough test of the car’s electrical components. Check the power windows, door locks, seat controls, and backup camera. “Make sure all lights, the air conditioner, heater, wipers, turn signals, stereo and navigation systems work,” Martin says. “And test them more than once.” Even if an electrical component is working, check to make sure it’s working properly. Flickering lights and intermittent functioning can also be signs of water damage. 

Check the Vehicle History

Flood-damaged cars may be moved across state lines and retitled, so always get a Carfax report, which tracks a vehicle’s complete history regardless of location. Additionally, run the vehicle’s VIN number through the National Insurance Crime Bureau. “The service can identify whether a car has been reported stolen or labeled as salvage by insurance companies due to flooding,” Martin says. “But, while these reports can be helpful, they don’t cover everything.That’s why having a certified mechanic inspect a used car before you buy is a smart investment.”

Get a Pre-Purchase Inspection

Even if you don’t suspect a car has been flooded after looking it over yourself, a professional mechanic could catch subtle signs you missed, as well as any other mechanical issues with the vehicle. Ask them to specifically check for signs of flooding. 

FAQ

Can a flooded car have a clean title?

Yes, a flood-damaged car can still have a clean title and show no record of flooding in its history. 

Is it safe to buy a car that has been flooded?

No, not if you intend to drive it. Issues can continue to arise years after a flooding event that can impact the vehicle’s functioning. However, you could buy a flooded car with the intention of using it for parts. 

About the Expert

• David Martin is an automotive mechanic and owner of Martin’s Auto Repair in Phoenix, Arizona.

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Yes, Different Curb Colors Have a Meaning — A Guide to Decoding Them

What Do Red Curbs Mean for Parking and Stopping?

Red curbs generally mean drivers can’t stop or park there, even for a few minutes. That includes waiting in the car while someone runs into a store. They’re common near fire hydrants, intersections, and bus stops, where parked cars could block traffic or get in the way. Some red zones still allow buses to stop to pick up or drop off passengers.

What Do White Curbs Mean for Picking Up and Dropping Off Passengers?

White curbs usually allow drivers to stop long enough to pick up or drop off passengers. They’re often found outside hotels, schools, and hospitals.

But they aren’t regular parking spaces. Drivers generally need to stay with their vehicles and leave once their passengers get in or out. Some cities have different rules, though. San Francisco, for example, also allows certain white curbs to be used for quickly loading or unloading goods.

What Do Yellow Curbs Mean for Loading and Unloading?

Yellow curbs usually mark loading zones. They’re often found near businesses where delivery drivers need somewhere to stop while dropping off packages or other goods. Commercial vehicles can typically use these areas for a short time, although some cities allow passenger vehicles to stop there, too. These aren’t regular parking spaces, and nearby signs usually explain how long drivers can stop.

What Do Green Curbs Mean for Short-Term Parking?

Green curbs generally mean drivers can park, but only for a short time. They’re common near businesses where customers might need to stop for a few minutes. The time limit isn’t always the same, so drivers should check the curb or nearby signs before leaving their cars. Some spaces also have parking meters or restrictions during certain hours.

What Do Blue Curbs Mean for Accessible Parking?

Blue curbs mark parking spaces for people with disabilities. Cities often place these spaces near building entrances to make them easier to access. Drivers need a valid disability parking placard or qualifying license plate to park in these spaces. Without one, they can’t use the spot, even for a quick stop.

The striped areas next to accessible parking spaces also need to stay clear so people have enough room to get in and out of their vehicles.

Sources

• California Department of Motor Vehicles, “California Driver’s Handbook, Section 6: Navigating the Roads (Continued), Parking at Colored Curbs“
• Los Angeles Department of Transportation, “Colored Curb Zones“
• Seattle Department of Transportation, “Curb Colors“
• San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency, “Loading and Short-Term Parking“
• Federal Highway Administration, “Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices, 11th Edition with Revision 1“

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What Is “Heart Attack Snow,” and Why Is It So Dangerous?

Shoveling snow can be a dangerous winter chore. Icy walkways can cause serious falls, and prolonged exposure to the cold can lead to hypothermia or frostbite. Another safety concern is something called “heart attack snow.”

The name sounds dramatic, but it points to a real concern for people clearing sidewalks and driveways in winter. For those in snowy climates, understanding the risks of heart attack snow is important before picking up a shovel.

Understanding the risks can help prevent a routine chore from becoming a medical emergency.

Why Is Heavy, Wet Heart Attack Snow Dangerous to Shovel?

Heart attack snow is a nickname for heavy, wet snow that’s harder to shovel than dry, powdery snow. The name comes from the strain that lifting this type of snow can place on the heart. According to the National Weather Service, snow with a higher water content weighs more, making each shovelful harder to lift.

The added effort can quickly raise heart rate and blood pressure. Cold temperatures also cause blood vessels to narrow, making the heart work harder. The American Heart Association warns that this combination can trigger a heart attack or sudden cardiac arrest.

The association says the risks are especially concerning for “people who already have cardiovascular risks like a sedentary lifestyle or obesity,” including those with a history of smoking, diabetes, high cholesterol, or high blood pressure. People who have previously suffered a heart attack or stroke also face greater risks.

Even lighter, powdery snow can be dangerous, especially when large amounts require repeated lifting or hours of clearing.

How to Shovel Snow Safely and Reduce the Risk of a Heart Attack

Before heading outside, people should warm up indoors and stretch gently. Dressing in layers helps protect against the cold, while staying hydrated is important even when someone doesn’t feel thirsty.

The American Heart Association recommends pushing snow rather than lifting it whenever possible. When lifting is necessary, smaller loads and frequent breaks can help limit physical strain. A snow blower can also reduce the amount of lifting, although operating one still requires effort.

Slippery surfaces are another concern. “Walking on ice is extremely dangerous,” according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). The agency recommends using rock salt or another de-icing product to keep walkways clear of ice. Sand can also help prevent slipping.

People with heart disease or significant cardiovascular risk factors should have someone else handle snow removal, according to the American Heart Association.

Recognizing the warning signs of a heart attack is equally important. Chest pain or pressure, shortness of breath, dizziness, nausea, cold sweats, or discomfort in the arms, back, or jaw can all signal a serious problem. Symptoms aren’t always severe and can vary from person to person.

Anyone experiencing possible heart attack symptoms should stop shoveling immediately and call 911. The American Heart Association advises against waiting to see whether symptoms go away.

Sources

American Heart Association, “Snow Shoveling, Cold Temperatures Combine for Perfect Storm of Heart Health Hazards”
American Heart Association, “Warning Signs of a Heart Attack”
National Weather Service, “Winter Weather Preparedness”
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “Safety Guidelines: During & After a Winter Storm”

RELATED:

• The 5 States Where Winter Driving Is Most Dangerous
• Which States Have the Highest and Lowest Property Taxes?
• The Biggest Home in Each State That Will Stun You

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Step Up Your Game With a DIY Folding Step Stool

Cut your pieces

On the miter saw and/or table saw, cut the top step (A), all four legs (B), the guides (C), ad the bottom crossbrace (E). Set aside everything but the legs (B) until later.

Shape the ends of the legs

Using a compass with a pencil, draw 1-1/2-inch diameter half-circles at the bottom of each leg (B) to match the 1/2-inch width of the leg.

Use a disc or belt sander with a coarse-grit sandpaper (80 or 100-grit) to shape the ends of the legs by sanding up to the marked pencil lines for your arch. Once you have sanded to the line, work your way up to 220-grit sandpaper for a smoother finish.

Drill holes in the legs and Guide rails

Use a drill press to drill:

• Hole 1: Drill a 1/4-inch hole through each leg, in the middle of the 14-inch-long leg, and centered from side to side in all four legs (B).
• Hole 2: With the first hole drilled, separate the legs (B) into two inside and two outside legs. On the outside legs, use a Forstner bit to drill 5/8-inch x 1/2-inch-deep holes, centered 3/4-inch from the top, on the side of the legs that will face inward. Then, drill a 1/4-inch hole all the way through the leg from the center of the 5/8-inch hole. The 5/8-inch x 1/2-inch-deep holes countersink the nylon lock nut and allow the legs to collapse into each other without obstruction.
• Hole 3: On the inside legs (B), use a Forstner bit to drill a 3/4-inch wide holes through the legs. Center these 1-1/2-inch down from the top of the leg and centered side-to-side.
• Hole 4: On the inside legs (B), use a Forstner bit to drill a 1/2-inch wide hole through the legs. Center these 2-3/4-inch up from the bottom of the leg and centered side-to-side.
• Hole 5: On the guide rails (C), drill a 1/4-inch hole through the guide rail, 1-inch in from the side and centered top-to-bottom.

Round over the edges

Using a router table or a router equipped with a 1/4-inch round-over bit, round over all the edges of the step (A) and all four legs (B). Be sure to use clamps to hold the pieces while making your passes with the router.

With all the parts machined, sand all the components to 220 grit and apply a couple of coats of a wood finish of your choice. Allow the finish to dry before moving on to assembly.

Connect the inside legs

Spread wood glue in hole 3 at the top of each inside leg (B). Insert the ends of the 3/4-in. dowel cross brace (D) and tap the legs on with a rubber mallet until D is fully seated.

Set the 1-1/4-in.-square cross brace (E) between the bottoms of the legs, with its bottom edge 2-1/8 in. up from the bottom of the legs. To keep the legs parallel while you drill, clamp a scrap the same length as the cross brace (E) between them at mid-height. Check for square.

Using hole 4 in each leg as a guide, drill a 1/2-in. hole about 1 in. deep into the center of each end of the cross brace (E). Glue 1/2-in. dowels, cut longer than the holes are deep, and drive them through the legs with a mallet until they bottom out in the cross brace (E).

Lock each of the four joints with a single brad nail through the leg into the dowel. Trim the protruding ends of all the dowels flush with a pull saw.

Attach the guide rails

Flip the top step (A) upside down. Position the guide rails (C) 1/2-in. in from each side and centered front to back, leaving 1-1/2-in. at the front and back. Trace around each rail.

Drill two 1/4-in. holes, 3/4-in. deep, centered on each outline. Keep the bit plumb when drilling (or drill at the drill press).

Insert dowel centers in the holes. Align each rail with its outline and press down to mark the hole locations. Drill matching 1/4-in. holes in the rails, about 7/8-in. deep. That’s slightly deeper than the dowel needs, which leaves room for glue.

Glue and insert 1/4-in x 1-1/2-in. dowels and secure the guide rails (C) to the step (A).

Connect the outside and inside legs

Thread 1/4-inch x 3-1/2-inch carriage bolts through hole 1 in the center of the legs to connect an outside leg to the outside of each of the connected inside legs. Put a washer between each pair of legs and secure with a nylon lock nut on the inside of the inside legs.

Connect the legs and step

Connect the two outside legs (B) to the sides of the guide rails (C) by threading 1/4-inch x 2-1/2-inch pan head screws through hole 5 in the guide rails and through hole 2 on the outside legs. Use a washer on the outside of the guide rails and pliers to hold the nylon lock nuts while you tighten them into the 5/8-inch countersunk holes.

Attach upholstery strap

The strap acts as a stop, limiting how far the legs can open. Wrap one end of an upholstery strap around the middle of the top cross brace (D) and staple it in place with a narrow-crown stapler. Open the stool until the seat sits level, then pull the strap snug and staple the other end centered on the underside of the top step (A). Use several 1/2-in. staples at each end so the strap holds securely.

FAQ

How wide should a step stool be?

A step stool should be about 11 to 16-in. wide to fit both feet comfortably side by side. For a portable or compact version, stay toward the narrow end of that range.

How tall should a step stool be?

A single-step stool should be 6 to 9-in. tall. That’s a good height for reaching into a truck bed, helping kids reach a tall bathroom sink, or getting to the top pantry shelves.

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Is a Reverse Osmosis Filter System Actually Worth It? We Break Down Every Cost

In this installment of The Upgrade, we dive into reverse osmosis filtration for the kitchen, its benefits and hidden costs — plus which households should invest in the technology, and who can skip it.

I’ve lived in some places with questionable drinking water. One town issued a notice that the municipal water supply had experienced a sewage incident. Another had an arsenic problem. I’ve also lived on well water, with concerns of contamination from nearby agricultural fields.

My solution used to be buying five-gallon jugs of spring water. But that was costly and a hassle, so six years ago, I switched to an under-sink reverse osmosis (RO) filter for my drinking and cooking water.

Under-sink RO filters work like this: water passes through a series of filters, including an RO membrane, which removes dissolved substances — including lead, arsenic, nitrates, forever chemicals, chlorine, fluoride and sediment — down to 0.0001 microns. The cleaned water then comes out through a faucet, installed near the sink.

“Reverse osmosis provides the safest level of drinking water possible,” says international water filtration specialist Andrew D. Daily. “It strips out 100% of bacteria, cysts, dissolved solids, chlorine, rust, viruses and microplastics.”

But RO systems are also a considerable investment. So, we asked a range of health and plumbing experts for their thoughts on who should get an RO system, plus how to pick the right one. Ahead is what they said, how much RO systems cost up front and over time, and whether it’s worth the upgrade.

Upfront Costs of RO Systems

RO water systems range from a few hundred dollars to over $1,000. The good news is that if you have basic plumbing knowledge and are comfortable drilling a hole in your countertop, installing one can be a DIY task. Otherwise, pro installation usually runs upwards of $300, not including add-ons like a refrigerator/ice-maker connection, leak protection, an additional electric outlet and other plumbing modifications.

Operating Costs of RO Systems

The biggest downside to RO systems is that they waste water. For every gallon that comes out of the faucet, somewhere between one-half and four gallons get flushed down the drain through the filtration process. That means if you use 5 gallons of water a day for cooking and drinking, the RO system wastes between 2.5 and 20 gallons.

Over a year, that adds up to between 500 and 8,500 gallons, depending on your RO system. On the low end, that’s only a few pennies more on your yearly water utility bill, but on the high end, it could be close to $100.

• Pro-tip: To reduce water waste, choose an EPA WaterSense-certified system.

Some RO water systems also require electricity. The amount of power they consume varies by model, but usually falls between 20 and 40 watts per hour. Since RO systems typically run for less than an hour a day, even if you live in a place with high electricity rates, they should add only a few dollars a year to your electricity bill.

Maintenance Costs of RO Systems

Maintaining RO systems is an easy DIY task, though some people choose to pay a pro to keep track of it for them. Expect to spend roughly the following for DIY maintenance:

• Filters: $30-$100, every six to 12 months
• RO membrane: $25-$60, every couple of years
• Holding tank sanitizer: $20 every year
• Checking tubing and fittings for leaks: $0, every year

Daily recommends buying only name-brand filters, even though they’re more expensive. “Name brands follow strict regulations,” he says. ”Generic China-based deals often do not provide the same protection.”

Longevity

A quality RO system can last 10 years or longer with proper maintenance. “Many parts, including filters, membranes, faucets and tanks can be replaced individually,” says plumbing expert Danielle Smith. “Once a system gets older, though, replacement may make more sense than repeated repairs.”

What Long-Term Users Say

“The biggest thing for me is convenience,” says environmental and wellness expert Helen Christoni, who has an AquaTru system. “We use water all day long, drinking it, cooking with it and filling water bottles. Once installed, it just became part of my kitchen and my family’s daily health.”

Herman Hartanto, founder of Tampa Fast Home Buyer, has a Waterdrop G3P600 in his kitchen ($429 retail). It’s a tankless model, a feature he appreciates since it takes up minimal cabinet space. He also likes the display with real-time reports on total dissolved solids (TDS) and filter health. His only complaint is the occasional noise it generates. “The pump that draws the water on demand makes quite loud noise, which I can feel clearly at night when everything is silent,” he says.

Personally, I’ve used two RO filter systems. My first one was an iSpring, which I chose because of its affordability. It worked well, but like Hartanto, I found the pump noisy (even though mine had a water-holding tank). My second one, which I’ve only recently installed, is a Waterdrop X12 Pro, which I chose to upgrade to because of its water-saving efficiency, ability to add calcium and magnesium back into the water, clear display and range of other premium features. So far, I’ve found it to be quiet, efficient, and free of quirks (though at $1,400 off-sale, the price is a bit of a shocker).

Alternatives to an Under-Sink RO Water Filter

Depending on what type of contaminants you have in your water, there are several alternatives to an under-sink RO water filter:

• Under-sink ultrafiltration (UF) systems reduce microorganisms, retain dissolved minerals, and cost significantly less, but don’t remove a full range of dissolved chemicals, heavy metals and other contaminants.
• Countertop and pitcher filters, like the Waterdrop CT01 and PT-72W Pitcher, improve taste and reduce chlorine, rust and sediment, but generally don’t remove many other contaminants.
• Whole-house systems treat all of a home’s water, instead of just one faucet and are best for removing rust and sediment, softening water and making it taste better. Some, like Clearsource, also remove viruses and microplastics.
• Countertop RO systems, like the AquaTru Carafe and the Waterdrop M6SL, are great for renters and students, as they offer the same filtration benefits of under-sink models, but without the need for permanent installation.

How to Choose an RO System

• Have your water tested to identify which contaminants you need to address, then look for a system specifically certified to remove them.
• Between models, compare water efficiency, space requirements, water pressure, display options, electricity and drainage requirements, flow rate, replacement filter costs, warranty and parts availability.
• Decide whether you need helpful minerals, like calcium and magnesium, added back to the water after it’s filtered.
• Consider upgrade features like a UV lamp, filter-life indicators, water-quality and flow-rate sensors and leak detection.
• Decide between tank vs. tankless. Tankless filters usually cost more and require electricity (some tank models do as well), but they take up less space, often provide higher flow rates and reduce concerns about stagnant stored water.

“Find out what’s in your water before buying anything,” says Smith. “Don’t choose a system based only on how many stages it has or how many contaminants the box says it removes. Instead, start with your water and choose the system around what you actually need.”

Who Needs an Under-Sink RO Water Filter?

If you’re worried about contaminants like microplastics, arsenic, lead, forever chemicals, pesticides and pharmaceuticals, then an RO filter is a good choice.

“Water quality can vary tremendously depending on where you live, and even your home’s plumbing can affect what ultimately comes out of your faucet,” says Christoni. “Reverse osmosis addresses such a broad range of contaminants, and with an under-sink system, that purified water is available all day long without having to think about it.”

For Daily, the biggest reason to invest in a RO system is microplastics. “The amount of microplastics found in human brains, blood and organs have been increasing yearly,” he says. “Although there is not enough information to prove a detrimental effect on our health, many of my clients choose a cautious approach to water treatment.”

Otherwise, Daily says that RO filters are overkill in most U.S. cities, where tap water is generally considered safe. Even in Mexico, where water is often contaminated, he usually recommends sticking with under-sink ultrafiltration systems, since they’re a fraction of the cost, don’t waste water and don’t require power or space for a reservoir.

Is the Upgrade Worth the Cost?

If you’re currently buying bottled water, then yes, an RO system will soon pay for itself. But, otherwise, it really just depends on what you want to remove from your water. If you have arsenic, nitrates, salts, microplastics, fluoride, sulfates and other dissolved solids (TDS), RO systems are a great solution.

Otherwise, a less-expensive ultrafiltration system might be a better choice. Either way, having an under-sink filtration system is a good way to ensure your family has access to clean water, both on a daily basis and after flooding events and other natural disasters that contaminate city and well water.

So, are you ready for the upgrade?

About the Experts

• Andrew D. Daily specializes in in-home water filtration in Mexico City and is the founder of Water Filters CDMX.
• Helen Christoni is an environmental and wellness expert specializing in indoor air and home health, and chief business officer at Ideal Living.
• Danielle Smith is CFO and COO at Gotelli Plumbing Company, a multi-generational, woman-owned company based in Northern California.

Sources

• Dr. Eric Roy is a water scientist with more than 20 years of experience. He currently works as head of science at Culligan.
• In-house experts at Waterdrop filters also shared insights for this article.

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If You Spot OTR on a Truck, Here’s What It Means

Trucks are full of weird and useful features that most people overlook without knowing their real purpose. Some have long spikes on their wheels. Others might feature amber lights on top. You might even see diamond shaped signs. But what about OTR written on a truck?

What can look like a government code can have a specific meaning in the trucking industry. Learn what OTR means, how long-haul work compares with shorter routes, and why the context matters.

What Does OTR Mean When It’s Written on a Truck?

In trucking, OTR stands for “over-the-road.” It refers to long-haul trucking, where drivers transport freight across long distances, often through several states or into Canada. According to trucking company Schneider, OTR drivers can spend weeks away from home. Many drive trucks with sleeper cabs that provide a place to rest between shifts.

OTR describes the type of work, not a specific truck. It’s also not a required marking. The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) requires certain identifying information, including a company’s name and USDOT number, on interstate commercial trucks, but OTR isn’t part of that requirement.

The letters can also mean something different depending on where they appear. In the tire industry, OTR stands for “off-the-road,” referring to heavy-duty tires used on construction and mining equipment. OTR Diagnostics is also the name of a maintenance tool that helps truck owners check engine problems and other vehicle information.

What Does an OTR Truck Driver Do?

OTR truck drivers transport freight over long distances, often making several stops along the way. Their jobs can also involve inspecting their trucks, handling delivery paperwork, and sometimes helping load or unload cargo.

Because these trips can last for weeks, drivers often sleep in their trucks or stop at other places along their routes. The FMCSA limits how long commercial drivers can drive without taking required breaks and rest periods.

Drivers who operate most full-size tractor-trailers need a Class A commercial driver’s license (CDL). Depending on the company and route, drivers may spend several weeks working before returning home.

What’s the Difference Between OTR, Regional, and Local Trucking?

OTR drivers cover the longest distances and may spend weeks away from home. Regional drivers work within a particular area of the country, often returning home weekly or more frequently. Local drivers generally stay closer to home and return after each shift, although they can still work long hours.

There’s also dedicated trucking, where drivers regularly transport freight for the same customer or between the same locations. These routes can be local, regional, or long-distance, depending on the company.

The exact distances and schedules vary between employers, so the terms don’t always describe the same mileage or amount of time away from home.

Sources

Schneider, “Over-the-Road (OTR) Truck Driving Jobs”
Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration, “How Do I Get a Commercial Driver’s License?”
OTR Performance, “Why Choose OTR Diagnostics?“

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Don’t Get Caught Off Guard by First Frost Again — Bookmark This Checklist for Next Year

Check Gutters and Downspouts

Water that accumulates around a home during winter can cause foundation damage as it freezes and thaws. Before the first frost comes, clean leaves and other debris from the gutters and downspouts, check for leaks and extend downspouts so they carry water at least 10 feet away from the house.

Common mistake: “Don’t clean the gutters too early in the fall, before nearby trees have finished shedding their leaves,” says remodeling expert Michael DiMartino.

Disconnect Garden Hoses, Sprinklers and Outdoor Faucets

Many outdoor water systems fall victim to the first freeze, bursting as the water inside of them expands into ice. To prevent this:

• Disconnect hoses from bibs.
• Install spigot covers, if you don’t have frost-free models.
• Drain garden hoses.
• Turn off and drain the sprinkler system.

“It’s also a good idea to put the hoses and other garden equipment in a shed, so they’re covered and out of the elements,” says Tripp.

Protect Exposed Plumbing

Freezing water can split plumbing pipes. Then, once temperatures rise, the water leaking out can cause significant damage. To prevent this, use foam insulation sleeves, insulation tape or heat tape around pipes that run through unheated areas, such as garages, crawls spaces, basements, attics and exterior walls.

“Also, look for gaps around windows, doors, foundations and where pipes enter the home, and seal them properly, since cold drafts can make vulnerable plumbing even more susceptible to freezing,” says plumber Tim Fancher. As a bonus, this will also help keep mice and spiders out.

Pro-tip: know where your main water shutoff is, says Fancher. If a pipe does burst, quickly shutting off the water will help mitigate damage.

Prune Trees and Prep Lawn

Frost can cause weak trees limbs to fall, potentially damaging your roof or car, so trim trees before the winter season begins. That will also keep dead leaves from accumulating on your roof.

While you’re at it, prune shrubbery and cut back perennial plants. “Before the frost comes is also a good time to put in your winter fertilizer,” says Tripp. “Blend on your lawn and in your flowerbeds so that it will percolate down into the soil over the winter.”

Check Windows and Doors

Cracks or damaged seals can let in moisture, which will cause further damage, plus invite cold drafts. Before the first frost, caulk any gaps and fix damaged weather stripping. “This will also save you a lot of money on your heating bill, plus keep moisture and mold out of your house,” says Tripp.

Also, fogging between your window panes is often a sign that the window seal has failed, and the window may not be insulating your house as well as it once did, says DiMartino.

Inspect Your Roof

Any damage to your roof will likely get worse once temperatures drop. Before the first frost, visually inspect your roof for missing, loose or damaged shingles and signs of water intrusion. Also, check the attic for moisture.

Pro-tip: “If you notice moisture in the attic or leaks in the home’s living spaces, it could be a sign that the roof needs to be repaired or replaced,” says DiMartino.

Tune Up the HVAC

A freezing evening is no time to have the furnace fail. That could lead to burst pipes and even jeopardize your family’s safety. Home improvement expert Eric Goranson recommends hiring a pro to inspect your system every year, plus tune it for maximum efficiency.

While you’re at it, don’t forget to winterize your air conditioning system. “It’s not completely necessary to cover the outside condenser unit, but it’s a good practice to cover it or wrap it to protect it from frost,” says Tripp.

Safety check: Before using your furnace or fireplace in the fall, check your chimney for debris like spiderwebs and bird nests, which could cause it to not vent properly, or even catch on fire.

Get Your Car Ready for the Cold

Cold weather can reduce your battery’s cold cranking amps, making it hard to start on the first cold morning, says Goranson. Before the first frost, test your battery, check your tires and windshield wipers and bring other neglected maintenance up to date.

Pro-tip: Run a Top Tier fuel through your vehicle at least once a month. “Those have cleaners in them that help keep your engine’s fuel system clean,” says Goranson.

Winterize Lawn Care Equipment

Drain fuel or put fuel stabilizers in gas-powered lawnmowers, trimmers and blowers, before stowing them in the shed. “The best trick I was ever told, which has worked for over 30 years, is to drain the fuel out of your landscape equipment, then start it up and let it run until it’s completely out of gas,” says Tripp. “That gets all the fuel out of your carburetor so that it does not varnish or gum up, and it will start in the spring every time.”

For electric-powered equipment, charge the batteries to the manufacturer-recommended levels, then leave them in a temperature-controlled space.

Check the Garage

If your garage isn’t insulated, chances are there are items in there that won’t fare well when temperatures drop. Especially check the storage instructions on paints and other liquids, plus battery-powered equipment. Also, don’t forget to check the seals on your garage door.

Pro-tip: Move shovels and ice melt to a place where they’re easy to access, leave a clear walking path through the garage and designate somewhere to put wet boots and tools, says garage expert Alan Bernau Jr. “You want to be able to use the garage in winter, not just cram everything into it,” he says.

About the Experts

• Eric Goranson is a DIYer, interior designer and the host of Around the House, the national home improvement radio show and podcast.
• Todd Tripp is a retired general contractor and has been a home improvement expert on JustAnswer.com since 2023, where he helps homeowners with repair and maintenance questions.
• Tim Fancher is service manager at Smith’s Plumbing Services in Memphis, Tennessee, and has 15 years of experience in the industry.
• Michael DiMartino is senior VP of installations at Power Home Remodeling, headquartered in Chester, Pennsylvania, where he’s worked on houses and educated crews for two decades.
• Alan Bernau Jr., is a garage expert at Alan’s Factory Outlet. Over two decades, he has helped more than 100,000 home and business owners design and install long-lasting, fully customizable structures.

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