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Friday, April 24, 2026

Smart Ways to Save Water During a Drought Warning

For those of us living in western states, water conservation has taken center stage as droughts force water restrictions in many towns. But even if you’re not facing literal drought conditions, using less water is also a cost concern. Water bills across the country have risen an average of 24% since 2019.

Luckily, there are a lot of ways to save water — and most of them require very little effort. For example, “We often think we need to rinse dishes before adding them to the dish water,” says sustainability expert Marcus Griswold, who runs the website Little Green Myths. “But this wastes as much as 6,000 gallons of water a year.”

Here’s how to figure out where your water is going, plus ways to up your water conservation at home.

Understanding Your Water Usage

If you want to see how much water you use during a typical day or week, look at your water meter. “The average person uses 82 gallons of water a day at home, so you can use this as a baseline,” says Griswold.

To learn how much water a specific appliance uses, check the owner’s manual. You can also calculate the gallons per minute that your shower and other fixtures use by timing how long it takes to fill up a gallon jug.

Fixing Leaks and Reducing Waste

Even small leaks can waste a major amount of water. “Homeowners often don’t realize that fixing them can save way more than shortening their showers by a few minutes,” says plumbing expert Caleb Caviness of AryCo home services. “And most can be fixed with $10 in parts and 15 minutes of DIY work, so not fixing them is literally like flushing money down the drain.”

For example, a faucet that drips once per second gives up 3,000 gallons over the course of a year, while a leaky toilet flapper can waste 200 gallons a day, says Caviness.

To check for hidden leaks in your home and irrigation system, don’t use the water for at least two hours and see if your water meter still goes up. If it does, it’s time to start hunting for that leak. Also, ask your insurance company if they provide a leak monitoring service.

Conserving Water In the Bathroom

  • Turn off the water while brushing your teeth.
  • Turn off the shower while lathering up.
  • Use a timer to keep track of shower length.
  • In non-efficient toilets, put a brick or full water bottle into the tank to reduce water volume.

Conserving water also helps save money on your power bill. “It takes a surprising amount of energy to pump, heat, treat and move water, so simple steps can add up,” says Kate Colarulli of CleanChoice Energy.

Conserving Water in the Kitchen

  • Use the dishwasher, which can save upward of 2,400 gallons a year compared to handwashing.
  • Simply scrape the food from your dishes instead of pre-rinsing them. Modern dishwashers are designed to work this way.
  • Wait until the dishwasher is full before running it.
  • When you do hand wash, plug the sink, so you’re not running water continuously.

Conserving Water in the Laundry Room

  • Wash towels less often.
  • Wear clothes more than once.
  • If your washer doesn’t have a load-size sensor, run only full loads.

Conserving Water in the Yard

  • Plant native plants, which require less water and fertilizer. “Native plants also provide vital habitat for wildlife and pollinators, promoting a healthy ecosystem,” says Colarulli.
  • Swap some or all of your turf grass for native grasses and other low-water landscaping designs. It’ll also save you from having to mow.
  • Water early in the morning, so less evaporates.
  • Install a rain barrel to collect runoff water, which can then be used in the garden.
  • Consider these other tips, too.

Water Efficiency Upgrades

Upgrading to low-flow shower heads and faucets is an inexpensive way to significantly boost water conservation. An even cheaper and easier solution is to install high-efficiency faucet aerators, which run between $5 and $15. “If you can unscrew a lightbulb, you can do this,” says Caviness. “They’ll reduce your facet’s flow by about 30%, without making it feel like you’re washing your hands under a leaky straw.”

Dual-flush water-efficient toilets are a more expensive upgrade, but they can save thousands of gallons a year. They cost between $150 and $300, and are DIY-able for those with basic plumbing knowledge.

Outside, it’s not too difficult to DIY install a smart irrigation controller. They cost between $100 and $250, and adjust water flow based on precipitation and soil saturation.

More expensive upgrades include energy and water-efficient dishwashers and washing machines. The latter can save about 30 gallons per load, says Griswold.

Daily Habits That Reduce Water Usage

  • Turn off the water while brushing your teeth. “It doesn’t sound like a big deal, but it’ll save around four gallons of water every time you do it,” says Caviness.
  • Time your showers.
  • Turn off the faucet while doing the dishes.
  • Find ways to reuse water, other than pouring it down the drain. For example, “You can dump boiled water onto dishes to soak and pre-rinse, or use cleaner boiled water to water plants once it has cooled down,” says Griswold.

FAQ

What is greywater, and is it safe to reuse?

Greywater is water that’s already been used in the shower, washing machine and sinks (but not your toilet). Since it just contains soap and some dirt, it’s generally safe to use in toilets and for lawn irrigation, but not for drinking water or watering root vegetables. If it has a low amount of soap, it can also be used to water plants. Just be sure to use it promptly, to prevent bacteria from growing in it, says Caviness.

Do water-saving appliances really make a difference?

Yes, they significantly reduce water usage. For example, an Energy Star dishwasher uses less than four gallons, while handwashing can consume upward of 20; and an efficient washing machine uses about 10 gallons, compared with 40 on older models. “Over a year, the upgrade pays for itself,” says Caviness.

About the Experts

  • Marcus Griswold is a sustainability expert, and runs the website Little Green Myths, which is focused on evaluating key questions around sustainability science and consumer goods.
  • Caleb Caviness is the general manager of AryCo, a plumbing, HVAC and electrical services company in North Texas.
  • Kate Colarulli is chief strategy officer at CleanChoice Energy.

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Thursday, April 23, 2026

Ever Wonder About That Extra 9/10 on Gas Prices? Here’s Why It Exists

Whenever I talk about the price of gas at the pump, I make the mistake of ignoring the 9/10 tacked onto the number I see on the sign and assume a price that’s one cent lower than the actual price. Most people do that, because the fraction is written in small print and seems insignificant when you’re talking about prices in the range of $4-$6 per gallon. It wasn’t insignificant back in the 70s and before, however, when gas cost less than $1 per gallon.

Gas stations aren’t the only places you see fractional pricing; retailers of all kinds do too. Setting the price for an item at $24.99 instead of $25 (for example) tricks consumers into thinking the price is less than it actually is. There’s an element of that in fractional gas prices, but it’s a bit more complicated. So why did gas stations use this pricing then, and why do they do it now? We checked in with fuel management specialist Eliot Vancil and automotive journalist Michael Satterfield to find out.

The Quick Answer

An obvious reason for fractional prices is that it makes money for the retailers. “A single station which fills 300,000 gallons monthly is getting a yearly increase of more than $32,000 on that one sub-cent increment,” says Vancil. “Retail margins are low, usually five to 15 cents per gallon of regular unleaded. So that fraction is not a rounding quirk. It is an intentional line margin which most customers will never consider to inquire about.”

Customers never enquire about fractional prices because the practice has been around so long, and at this point, is probably based on habit. Consumers just expect 9/10 pricing for gasoline, and stations rounding up to the nearest cent could face backlash. This actually happened. Twice.

According to Advancing Convenience & Fuel Retailing, the state of Idaho banned fractional pricing in 1985, and levied a $100 for doing it. That ban was repealed four short years later. In 2006, a retailer in Palo Alto, CA began setting prices without the 9/10 addition as an experiment, advertising $2.99 per gallon instead of $2.999. Some customers assumed he had rounded up the price. Others had a different question: if he had reduced the price, why didn’t he reduce it more? In the end, because of the loss of the extra 9/10 cent in revenue, this experiment ended up costing the retailer about $23 a day, based on 2,500 gallons sold.

Where Did 9/10ths Pricing Start?

Pricing to 9/10ths of a cent is known as mil pricing, which goes back to the Coinage Act of 1792. A mil is 1/1000th of a dollar (a cent is 1/100th; mil, cent…get it?), and mil pricing is still common for property tax assessments, stock issuances and utility bills.

Mil pricing for gasoline began with the Revenue Tax Act of 1932, which established a 1/10th-cent (one mil) per gallon excise tax on gasoline, which has subsequently increased to 18.4 cents per gallon. During the Great Depression, gas prices fluctuated from 20 to 30 cents a gallon, and in some places they were as low as 10 cents a gallon. Adjusting prices up and down by a full cent amounted to a 5 to 10 percent change in the price of gasoline, so to calm customers’ nerves, retailers made adjustments in mils rather than full cents.

Why Gas Stations Still Use it Today

“Initially,” says Satterfield, “mil pricing was just the gas stations passing on the cost of the new tax without raising gas prices by a full cent. The industry just never got away from it; today, it’s a psychological play, just like the $1.99 vs $2.00 in retail.” The practice really took hold in the late 1950s with the development of the Interstate system. Gas stations along major highways would advertise the price in 9/10 of a cent, and drivers speeding by would look only at the first two numbers.

In 1971, President Nixon instituted freezes on prices and wages, and a government-mandated formula set fractional gas prices like 0.3 or 0.6 cents. This proved unpopular with the public, and 9/10 pricing returned. It has been the rule ever since in the United States, where gas is sold by the gallon. In countries that sell gas by the liter, such as Canada, it’s more common to see prices with fractions like 0.3 and 0.7 cents, because the fractional rate has more of an impact on the final price when you buy gas in smaller quantities.

Why Not Just Round To The Nearest Cent?

The main reason for 9/10 gas pricing is probably psychological marketing. $2.999 sounds cheaper than $3.00, and rounding up to the nearest cent could drive customers away. Beyond that, the extra 9/10 of a cent tacked onto gas prices is a source of revenue for retailers, who typically have very thin profit margins.

FAQ

Why is gas one of the only things priced in fractions of a cent?

The fact that fuel is, as Vancil explains, the only consumer product in the United States to be highly priced below the cent, goes back to the Revenue Tax Act of 1932. That Act established the excise tax that established the practice of mil pricing for gasoline and not for any other consumer goods. Curiously, adds Vancil, that Act was never intended to be permanent.

Could gas stations legally drop the 9/10?

No federal law prevents gas stations from pricing in full cents, but for reasons already discussed, stations are reluctant to do it. They would lower their profit margins and lose psychological advantage of fractional pricing.

About the Experts

  • Eliot Vancil is CEO of Fuel Logic LLC, a Dallas, Texas-based company specializing in comprehensive fuel management solutions, including delivery of various diesel types and gasoline nationwide.
  • Michael Satterfield is an award-winning journalist, branding expert, and founder of The Gentleman Racer — a leading online publication covering automotive culture, travel, and lifestyle.

Sources

RELATED:

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Wednesday, April 22, 2026

Domestic Disasters: That Awful Shower Drain Smell Has a Surprising Culprit

Welcome to Domestic Disasters, where we take a look at some of your worst mess-ups and grossest finds. We take them to the experts to find out how big of a problem they are and how expensive they are to fix.

A few years ago, Tim and Kathy found their dream home in Atlanta suburbs. The house was about ten years old, which to them was the ideal age — old enough for the quirks to have all been fixed, yet still new enough not to have any major issues. But, a year after moving in, the bathroom started emanating a gas-like, sulfur odor.

It wasn’t the first odd smell in their bathroom. A few months earlier, they’d experienced a sewage smell, which they soon figured out was caused by mold in the toilet tank. But the shower drain smell was more elusive. They called a couple of plumbers, who couldn’t find anything wrong. They also searched for answers on a Reddit forum, where they discovered that dozens of people had the same mysterious issue.

“I was convinced something died in the walls,” commented one person. Another wrote, “My husband and the plumbers that came to my home didn’t smell it, but it drove me mad.”

Kathy also speculated humorously on the thread, “Maybe it’s not a gasket or P-trap, maybe it’s the smell of the stuff you’re washing down the drain coming back up to haunt you.” Bingo.

After a couple of years of searching for an answer, they finally discovered that what they were putting down the drain was, indeed, the issue. “It was freakin shampoo,” wrote Kathy. “Dandruff shampoo at that. Like Head & Shoulders, Selsun Blue, whatever medicated shampoo.”

Here’s how Kathy and Tim eliminated the persistent, unpleasant scent coming from the bathroom, along with how the experts suggest handling it.

What They Tried

Initially, Kathy thought an empty P-trap was to blame, but that theory was easily debunked. Next, she tried a variety of drain cleaners and fresheners, including bleach, vinegar, baking soda and even Dawn dish soap and Tide laundry detergent.

When none of those reduced the smell, she tried an enzyme cleaner. That helped temporarily, but as soon as someone washed their hair, the smell returned. Again, she was at a loss.

A Pro Weighs In

We spoke to a couple of experts to find out why medicated shampoos can create bad smells in shower drains, and how to help Tim and Kathy permanently solve their dilemma.

“This problem is actually more common than you think,” says plumber Jordan Benjamin. “I’ve had more than a few service calls to fix this exact issue.”

The Science Behind the Smell

Dandruff and other medicated shampoos contain surfactants, oils and stabilizers, which don’t dissolve well in water. So, when you rinse your hair, some of those residues build up in the drainpipes.

“Those pipes are already covered with soap scum, hair and organic matter, creating what we call biofilm, and with each shower that layer of biofilm grows a little thicker,” says Benjamin. “Anaerobic bacteria thrive in these conditions, and the rotten egg or sewer odor that results is actually due to the bacteria feeding on the buildup.”

The problem is especially pronounced with products containing selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithione and ketoconazole.

Beyond an unpleasant odor, the buildup of organic matter can eventually lead to slow draining and clogs. The biofilm can also degrade PVC and ABS plastic pipes. And the longer you wait, the tougher it is to clean it off.

Did the Homeowners Get it Right?

Yes and no. The pros agree that Kathy was correct in using an enzyme cleaner. However, they caution against just dumping a range of products down the drain. “You run the risk of damaging your pipes,” says Benjamin. Also, some combinations can be dangerous, and if you have a septic system, it will harm the good bacteria in your tank.

Keep in mind, too, that in general, products like bleach, baking soda, soaps and vinegar are often no match for stinky drains, says plumber Kelly Russum. “They usually just flow past the buildup and don’t stay in contact long enough to break it down,” he says. “You need something that actually touches the walls. Usually, that means enzyme cleaners, foaming drain cleaners or mechanical cleaning using a drain brush.”

The Panic Meter

We rank Domestic Disasters on a four-point scale.

  • Do It Yourself: The easiest issues to fix. You can handle it all on your own.
  • Phone a Friend: This issue might require a little outside assistance.
  • Call a Pro: This situation warrants professional assistance.
  • SOS: Problems that are so dangerous, you’re directly at risk of injury or worse.

This kind of problem usually lands on the “Do It Yourself” scale. “The ‘odor factory’ is close to the drain opening, where DIY tools and cleaners can reach it easily,” says Russum. “You only need a plumber if the clog is deeper in the system, or the smells keep coming back despite proper cleaning.”

The Cost Differential

As a DIY job, this project typically costs between $20 to $60 for a good pipe brush and a bottle of enzymatic drain cleaner. If you opt to call in a pro for a drain cleaning, expect that to jump to $150 to $400.

How to Fix A Stinky Drain (the Right Way)

While Kathy was correct that an enzymatic cleaner is the proper chemical for the job, a lasting solution also requires a little more elbow grease, plus a regular cleaning routine. Here are the proper steps:

  • Remove the drain plug and pull out any debris you can reach. “Most of what you find will be hair and slimy sludge, so my recommendation is to wear gloves,” says Benjamin.
  • Flush the pipes with boiling water to loosen surface residues.
  • Pour an enzyme cleaner down the drain and let it sit overnight. The product should contain live bacteria, not just a regular chemical cleaner or deodorizer, says Russum.
  • Use a flexible pipe brush that matches the diameter of your pipe to scrub everything you can reach. “Gently feed the brush into the pipe and twist it as you push and pull it,” says Russum. Be sure to add a few drops of dish soap, such as Dawn, to help cut the grease.
  • Clean away any buildup around the drain opening and threads, using an old toothbrush and a little dish soap.
  • Rinse thoroughly with hot water for a couple of minutes, then replace the drain cover.

“You might need to repeat these steps every few days until the biofilm is completely gone,” says Benjamin. “If the odor is still present after that, your best bet is to call a plumber who offers hydrojetting.”

How to Prevent a Stinky Drain

  • Install a hair catcher over the drain.
  • Run hot water down the drain for 60 seconds after you wash your hair.
  • Use an enzyme cleaner once a week.
  • Scrub the shower drain at least once a month.
  • Occasionally, use a drain snake to remove hair.

“The dirtier your drains, the harsher that dandruff-shampoo-related smell becomes, because more skin flakes and oils stick to the pipe walls instead of washing away,” says Russum.

What Kathy and Tim Learned

With regular use of the enzymatic cleaner and physical cleaning of the pipes, Kathy and Tim have finally been able to keep the smell in check. And now Kathy is trying to spread the word about the solution. “I had posted [on Reddit] many moons ago about a nasty scent coming from my bathroom,” she said. “I’ve finally figured out why, and since many others have similar complaints, I’ve decided to share my experience.”

Editor’s Note: This story is adapted from a real homeowner’s experience shared on Reddit. While we’ve dramatized the narrative with fictionalized names and locations, the plumbing mechanics and professional solutions provided are expert-verified and factually accurate.

About the Experts

  • Jordan Benjamin is owner and president of Done Rite Services, an Arizona-based company specializing in HVAC, plumbing and electrical services.
  • Kelly Russum is the owner of KC’s 23 ½ Hour Plumbing & Air Conditioning in Palm Springs, California, and has almost 50 years of hands-on experience as a professional plumber.

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Monday, April 20, 2026

Is Your Car Allergic to Pollen, Too? How to Deal With Pollen On and In Your Car

Pollen seems innocuous, but if left unchecked, it can damage your car’s paint and even reduce gas mileage and engine performance.

“Pollen season tends to catch drivers off guard because it doesn’t feel as urgent as winter hazards like ice or salt,” says driver education expert Lucas Waldenback. “But over a few weeks, it can affect visibility, air quality and even how easy your car is to maintain.”

Here are some preventative steps to keep your vehicle and the air inside safe during pollen season.

How Are Cars ‘Allergic’ to Pollen?

Just like pollen can cause respiration problems in humans, it can clog your car’s air filter, reducing its ability to intake air. Pollen is also especially rough on paint.

“It may seem soft to touch, but under a microscope, pollen actually has a spiky surface, and this can act like fine sandpaper,” says automotive specialist Matt Clamp.

How Does Pollen Damage Cars?

The most noticeable damage is to vehicle paint. When pollen particles get wet, they become acidic, corroding the clear coat and dulling the finish. They’re also abrasive, so if you dry wipe pollen off of your car, it will create micro-scratches.

Other ways pollen damages cars include:

  • Lowering visibility and wiper-blade effectiveness;
  • Causing micro-scratches on the windshield.
  • Clogging cabin air filters. “This is especially noticeable for drivers with allergies, but it can also make the ventilation system less efficient,” says Waldenback.
  • Clogging engine air filters, which restricts airflow, making your engine work harder. “Over time, that can reduce fuel efficiency and lead to engine damage,” says automotive expert Steve Haney.

How to Prevent Pollen Damage to Your Car

  • Replace engine and cabin air filters at the start of pollen season, then check them periodically to make sure they’re not clogged.
  • Clean your wiper blades with a wet cloth to remove pollen buildup.
  • Never wipe off pollen when it’s dry.
  • Use a water-repellent windshield washer fluid, such as one containing Rain-X.
  • Regularly wash pollen off the car, so it doesn’t have time to bond with the surface. Car protection specialist Ken Huening recommends two or three times a week. “This is a good time to sign up for the unlimited wash level at your local car wash,” he says.
  • Use a pH-balanced shampoo and a soft sponge.
  • Apply paint-protective coatings like ceramic coatings or wax. “This can make it harder for the pollen to stick, and will make it easier to wash off next time,” says Clamp.
  • Park in a garage or covered spot, or use a car cover. “At very least, try to avoid parking right under trees that make the most pollen, like oak, birch, cedar and ash,” says Haney.

“Prevention is mostly about consistency,” says Waldenback. “A common mistake is waiting until the car looks visibly dirty. By that point, pollen has often already mixed with moisture and formed a more stubborn layer.”

How to Keep Pollen Out of Your Car for Allergies

  • Drive with your windows up and sunroof closed.
  • Run the AC on recirculation mode to avoid pulling outside air into the cabin.
  • Replace the cabin air filter at the beginning of allergy season. Use HEPA-rated filters, such as those made by Bosch.
  • Vacuum floor mats and seats, and wipe the dashboard regularly. It can also help to clean your vents with compressed air or a brush, says Haney.

How to Properly Clean Pollen Off Your Car

Regularly wash your car or take it to a professional car wash. “Simply rinsing your car with a hose or waiting for rain isn’t a good idea, since pollen turns acidic when wet,” says Haney.

  • Use pH-balanced soap and a soft cloth or mitt.
  • Never wipe dry pollen. That will create micro-scratches in your paint.
  • Pay attention to the places where pollen settles, such as the roof, hood, windshield and wipers. “Open the doors to clean the sills, and wipe down the rubber seals as well,” says Huening.
  • Start from the top and work your way down.
  • Wash, then rinse one section at a time. Also, “Wash the car in the shade if you can, so water and soap don’t dry too quickly on the paint,” says Clamp.
  • Use light pressure; don’t scrub.
  • Dry your vehicle with a microfiber cloth.
  • Apply a wax or ceramic coating. Huening recommends the Teflon-based wax DriWash.

“This might feel like a never-ending cycle of washing your vehicle during pollen season, but this type of proactive car maintenance can help keep your car looking its best and get the most life out of it,” says Haney. “And who doesn’t love driving a shiny car?”

About the Experts

  • Steve Haney is a corporate technical trainer at Bosch Mobility Aftermarket, and has more than 35 years of hands-on automotive repair experience.
  • Lucas Waldenback is co-founder of Zutobi, a driver education platform used by millions of learners worldwide to understand road safety, vehicle care and responsible driving habits.
  • Ken Huening is CEO of CoverSeal vehicle covers.
  • Matt Clamp is an automotive specialist at Scrap Car Comparison, where he leads on vehicle valuations and the car scrapping process, providing insight into end-of-life vehicle trends, and the factors that make cars unsafe or uneconomical to keep on the road.

RELATED:

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Thursday, April 16, 2026

This 2-Ingredient Carpet Deodorizer Makes My House Smell Like a Hotel

We live in an older home with plenty of charm—and plenty of carpet. Between our dog, daily foot traffic and the Florida humidity, our floors have definitely seen better days. Replacing the carpet is definitely on our to-do list, but when guests come over, I still want the house to smell fresh. My secret weapon? A super-simple, two-ingredient carpet deodorizer that makes the whole home smell like a boutique hotel in minutes.

Hotel Collection Diffuser Oil Samper Set Via Amazon.com A
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Hotel Collection Diffuser Oil Samper Set

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How to Make a 2-Ingredient Carpet Deodorizer

While it’s not a replacement for a deep clean or new flooring, this DIY carpet deodorizer is my favorite quick fix for when I’m hosting or just want the house to feel fresher. It’s easy to make and adds a signature scent to our home without pricey candles or diffusers.

Materials:

  • 1 cup baking soda
  • 10–20 drops of essential or fragrance oils of your choice. (My favorite is a No. 1111 from Airscent, which gives luxury beach villa vibes.)

Instructions:

  1. Measure one cup of baking soda into a small bowl
  2. Add 10-20 drops of essential oils. Start small here—you can always add more later.
  3. Mix well using a fork or whisk to break up any clumps
  4. Sprinkle evenly over your carpet. Focus on high-traffic or odor-prone areas.
  5. Let it sit for at least 15 minutes—or up to 1–2 hours for a stronger effect. Some recommend leaving it overnight, but I think that’s overkill.
  6. Vacuum it up. I use a Dyson V15 vacuum that’s great at picking up fine particles, but any reliable vacuum works just fine.

Why It Works

Baking soda is a natural deodorizer that absorbs unpleasant smells rather than masking them. It’s a temporary fix, but great for freshening up carpets between deep cleans. It works by neutralizing odor molecules, which makes it ideal for pet owners or anyone with high-traffic carpeted areas.

According to cleaning expert Allen P. Rathey, “Baking soda (alkaline) is attracted to human sweat, pet urine, and body oils (acidic)—which cause bacterial odor in carpet—and can neutralize them for a time.”

While a mixture like this isn’t removing the source of the problem, “odors may come from mold (also acidic) in carpeting, and baking soda is a chemical ‘match’ that may also help neutralize the odor.”

FAQ

What types of fragrances can I use?

This DIY deodorizer is fully customizable. Choose a fragrance or essential oil combination that matches your favorite scent profile. Go fresh and citrusy using lemon essential oil or cozy and warm with bergamot. My go-to is this collection of hotel fragrance “dupes” that smell luxurious without being overpowering.

Why does my carpet smell bad?

According to Rathey, “Odor-causing bacteria and mold spores need three conditions to best grow: Moisture, a food source, and relative darkness. These are present in carpet, especially at the base of fibers.” Microbes need very little of these elements in order to grow and flourish. “If the food source is not removed, bacterial or fungal odor will return.”

What’s the best way to get rid of bad-smelling carpet for good?

While you could replace the carpet entirely. Rathey recommends hot water extraction as a more effective solution for getting rid of bad smells. He likens it to your carpet’s version of a shower. He states, “It is important to deep clean carpets using hot water extraction followed by complete drying rather than solely applying a dry treatment.” Commercial cleaning companies have the equipment and knowledge to do this effectively.

About the Experts

  • Allen P. Rathey is an educator specializing in healthy facilities who cleaned carpets professionally for more than a decade.  He has assembled an advisory group of scientists, PhDs, facility and public health experts who share his passion for helping people everywhere create and maintain safe, healthy indoor environments. He is the Director of the Indoor Health Council (IHC) and Founder/Executive Director of the Indoor Exposure Index (INDEX) focused on reducing exposures related to cleaning.

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Smart Ways to Save Water During a Drought Warning

For those of us living in western states, water conservation has taken center stage as droughts force water restrictions in many towns. But...