How Americans Ended Up With $1.6 Trillion in Car Debt (And Why It’s Getting Worse)

Many Americans live somewhere where driving is a necessity. As nice as it would be for everyone to live in 15-minute cities, the unfortunate reality is that most U.S. infrastructure forces many people to need cars. And that often means financing a car. Recent studies have found that Americans carry a lot of auto loan debt, around $1.68 trillion. Sure, some of that is because cars are getting more and more expensive, but is there more to this number than that?

How Big of a Deal Is Auto Loan Debt?

To start, let’s put that $1.68 trillion into perspective. In a new report, Fortune notes that nearly “one in four Americans are paying off auto debt.” The report then says that this number is “on par with all outstanding federal student loan debt ($1.69 trillion of federal debt and $1.84 trillion total) and ahead of credit card balances ($1.28 trillion outstanding as of last year).” In fact, according to the numbers, “cars are rivaling everything else in terms of debt bondage for everyday Americans.”

Why Do Americans Have So Much Auto Loan Debt?

Some of this debt can be blamed on rising prices. Fortune notes that automobiles in particular are an example of “an item that has fast outpaced inflation since the pandemic.” Compared to 2018, the average monthly car payment has risen roughly 40%, from $506 to $680. For lower-income households, the overall car debt may also be bigger due to the need to “spread payments out over longer periods.” When the average car price is “almost $50,000, a 30% increase since 2019,” it’s sometimes necessary to take out a seven-year or longer auto loan, and that means paying far more in interest.

The used-car market is also seeing higher prices, limiting consumers’ options. Fortune reports that “while used car inflation has moderated somewhat since its peak in 2022, prices are still 29% higher than before the pandemic.” Shopping around on Facebook Marketplace or other third-party sites may still prove fruitful, but it’s not without its risks. Many sellers prefer to be paid in full in cash, which may not always be feasible. And with the rise of generative AI, scam listings are more prolific than ever.

Fortune also reports that there’s been a significant change in who’s buying new cars. “Last year, just 37% of people in the market for a new car had salaries smaller than six figures, down from 50% in 2020,” they report. This is in contrast to high-earners, where “the share of buyers with incomes exceeding $200,000 rising from 18% to 29% over the past six years.”

Source

Americans owe $1.68 trillion on car loans — more than credit card debt and as much as all federal student loans, Fortune, 2026.

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Here’s What That Strange Smell in Your Car Could Be Telling You

As far as I’m concerned, one of the perks of buying a new car is the “new car” smell that comes with it. I love it, but I have friends who characterize the smell as a noxious mixture of industrial chemicals. No matter, because eventually that fragrance goes away, and any subsequent car smells are often the result of what the car owner brings into the vehicle. However, most drivers have had the experience of detecting a strange odor that seems to come from the car itself, and not from the pizza in the back seat, and wondered if it’s something to worry about.

“If you’re noticing a strange smell,” says automotive repair technical advisor Steve Haney, “it’s usually a sign that something within the car needs attention. Like most vehicle issues, these problems shouldn’t be ignored. The longer you wait, the more complex and expensive the issue becomes to fix. And depending on the smell, you could be causing extensive damage to the engine.”

In this post, Haney and automotive information provider Jon Vorisek explain the likely causes of various odors and what they could be indicating about your car.

Why Paying Attention to Smells Matters

Most modern cars have sophisticated computers that continually scan systems for malfunctions, but they don’t catch all of them, and drivers have to remain alert. “Even though advanced diagnostics are really helpful for today’s vehicles, basic human senses still give us a lot of information,” says Vorisek. “Smells in particular can tell us a lot about what’s happening, and they often mean there’s a problem.”

How to Diagnose a Car Smell

Diagnosing car smells comes down to being attentive, identifying the smell and attempting to locate the source, says Vorisek. Sometimes you can find it yourself by looking under the car or under the hood, or simply following your nose. But sometimes you need help.

For instance, if you smell gasoline and see fluid dripping from under the car, the problem is pretty obvious: The fuel system is leaking. However, if you don’t see any drips, the smell could be coming from inside the car — specifically the engine. And if it’s in the engine, figuring out the problem — which could be a fuel mixture that’s too rich, or something more serious, like a ruptured fuel line in the engine compartment — is a job for a mechanic.

Common Car Smells and What They Mean

Sweet / Syrup-Like Smell

This is the smell of anti-freeze, and when you detect it, it almost always indicates a problem with the cooling system. A hose could be leaking, or maybe it’s the radiator or heater core. If you keep driving, all the coolant could eventually leak out, causing the car to overheat.

Burning Oil Smell

This sounds like one of the more dangerous car smells, but it usually isn’t. The engine is hot when it’s running, and any oil that gets on it because of a spill or a failing gasket will burn. This is something that needs attention, but it usually isn’t an emergency. However, warns Haney, if the leak is severe, it could be a fire hazard. “There are dozens of places where oil could leak from under the hood, and any one of those could give you a hot oil smell. It’s always best to get it checked by a professional if you aren’t able to see anything easily.”

Rotten Egg / Sulfur Smell

This smell could be caused by a failing catalytic converter or corroded battery connections. If it’s coming from your tailpipe, the cause is probably the catalytic converter, and it could signal other issues. “Most likely,” says Haney, “your Check Engine Light would be lit at this point.”

When the smell comes from the battery, it’s usually due to severely corroded terminals or an acid leak. Either way, Vorisek advises replacing the battery.

Burning Rubber Smell

Belts, hoses and other key components in the engine and elsewhere are made of rubber, and rubber burns when it overheats. If the smell is coming from the engine, pop the hood and check for a frayed or loose belt or a hose in contact with the engine block.

The smell could also be coming from the suspension, tires or braking system. The easiest-to-diagnose possibility is that the tires are severely under-inflated, which you can tell just by looking at the car, says Haney.

Burning Plastic Smell

When you smell burning plastic, suspect the electrical system. The wires are coated with plastic insulation, and it can melt or even burn when a wire overheats. “If this is happening,” says Haney,, “you would probably also see the lights in your vehicle flickering, or experience electrical components that simply don’t work at all.” He recommends that you don’t wait: take the car to a mechanic with the proper diagnostic equipment as soon as you can. Electrical issues can cause car fires.

Musty / Moldy Smells

A particularly sensitive friend of mine recently bought a used car that had suffered a leak through the windshield, and she spent $500 on deodorizing the vehicle. It had a musty smell she found intolerable that had been caused by water soaking into the carpeting. Leaks are a common cause of musty odors, but the A/C system can also produce them, especially if the cabin filter is clogged.

“While this isn’t mechanically dangerous,” says Haney, “it’s unhealthy to breathe moldy air, especially if you have young passengers or passengers with asthma.” My friend would agree with that.

Gasoline Smells

Yes, gasoline smells can come from a fuel leak, but smaller problems, like a loose gas cap or a faulty EVAP system in the fuel tank, could also be responsible. If you don’t see any dripping, and your car is performing normally, you can usually rule out fuel system issues, but Haney warns: “Gasoline exposure is harmful to your health, so if this is a repeat issue while driving, you will want to have your car serviced soon.”

Preventative Maintenance to Avoid Bad Smells

You can avoid many odor-related issues with regular professional maintenance. While changing your oil and filters, technicians may notice other developing issues that can result in bad car smells down the road. “The easiest smells to prevent ahead of time are moisture-related ones,” says Vorisek. “You can replace the cabin air filter, keep debris like leaves from collecting on the vehicle, and make sure spills are cleaned up and dried quickly.”

FAQ

Is it normal for a car to have any smell?

When the “new car” smell has subsided, most cars have a neutral odor. Keep in mind, though, that a car with its windows up is basically a closed system, and any odors that occupants bring with them are bound to be noticeable. Strange car smells could be coming from bags of groceries, pets, cleaning agents, or something equally inconsequential.

Can weather or seasons affect car smells?

“Seasonal conditions can absolutely affect bad smells in your vehicle, either activating the problems or exacerbating existing issues,” advises Haney. “In winter and spring, when it is wet outside, there may be more trapped moisture within your car, leading to mold and mildew. In the summer, heat intensifies all smells and your car is at a bigger risk of overheating, which can cause some of that sweet coolant smell, or the smell of burning rubber and plastic.”

About the Experts

• Steve Haney, who has more than 35 years of hands-on automotive repair experience, is a corporate technical trainer at Bosch Mobility Aftermarket.
• Jon Vorisek is the founder of Repair Surge, an automotive service information provider covering more than 10,000 vehicle models. He has over twenty years of experience in the automotive industry.

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• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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Keep Your Gaming Gear Tidy With This Video Game Controller Stand

Rough-cut the lumber

Plane down enough walnut to 1/2-in. for the tops of the bottom two tiers (A) and the mounting board (E).

At the miter saw, rough-cut the wood for all three sections. I advise cutting the pieces on the cut list a 1/2-in. longer in both directions to allow for wood shifting while clamped and gluing. This excess gives you room to cut off any edges perfectly flush after the glue dries.

Glue together the controller tiers

To create the first and second tiers that will hold the controllers, glue and clamp the walnut tops (A) to the ash bottoms (B). Even though these pieces are oversized, do your best to keep the pieces aligned when gluing.  Use enough glue to create squeeze-out along all the edges.  This will join the two pieces seamlessly without a gap. Secure with clamps and set them aside to dry.

Glue up the headset holder

This piece is made from three pieces of wood glued together. Sandwich a piece of ash (D) between pieces of walnut (C) on either side. Once again, do your best to keep the rough cut pieces aligned as they’re being glued up. Once the headset holder is made, the orientation of these pieces will be vertical. The base of this tier will be added after all the edges have been rounded over.

Draw and cut the arch

Using your headset, trace the arch of the top section, made from sandwiched ash (D) and walnut (C) pieces. To perfect the arch shape, use a circle compass and pencil, then cut the arch with a bandsaw.

When cutting on the band saw, be sure to cut slightly outside your drawn line to preserve the desired shape and avoid removing too much material. Later, you will use a sander to refine the shape.

Trim the edges of all three sections to size

Glued pieces of wood rarely dry perfectly flush and will require a bit of cleanup when the glue has dried. Use the miter saw and band saw to flush cut all four side of your glued up sections to the final dimension listed in the cutlist above.

Sand off the kerf marks

It is inevitable that you’ll get saw kerf marks on all three pieces from cleaning up and flushing out the edges on both the miter and band saw. Use a sander to remove these marks. A spindle sander or belt sander will be most suitable for this task; however, a hand sander can also be used. Start with 120-grit sandpaper and work up to 220-grit. This is where you will smooth out your arch by sanding down to the outline.

Round over the edges for all pieces

Once you have sanded off the saw marks, use a router with a 1/4-in. round-over bit to round-over all edges along the top and bottom of the first tier, second tier, and top arched headset tier. You will also round-over both sides of the two long edges on the base of the top headset holder (E). This piece was added to accommodate the dimensions of the flange and tie the design to the first and second tiers.

The edges can be rounded over using a router table. In the absence of a router table, be sure to clamp your workpiece to your bench for safety.

Drill holes for the handle

In the first and second tiers, drill holes with a 1-in. Forstner bit to serve as catches for the controllers’ handles.  Use the actual controller you plan to store on each tier to determine hole placement. For this project, the holes were drilled 1-1/2-in. in from the front and sides and 3/4-in. deep.

Secure the mounting board to the arched top section

Join the mounting board (E) to the arched section using wood glue and 23-gauge nails. This piece will accommodate the flange’s width, so it doesn’t protrude from the bottom of the piece.

Pre-drill pilot holes for flanges

This video game controller stand requires pipe flanges to be installed on top of the bottom tier (A), both the top (A) and bottom (B) side of the middle tier, and the bottom mounting board (E) of the arched top tier. Center the flange on each face and 1/4-in. in from the back edge. Mark and pre-drill holes with a 1/8-in. drill bit deep enough to seat the 1-in. screws easily.

Apply walnut oil finish

Before connecting the flanges and pipes, oil all sections with Walnut oil or the finish of your choice. Let it fully dry before proceeding.

Assemble the controller holder

When installing screws into hardwood species such as these, it is crucial not to use a drill.  A drill may have too much force and snap the heads off the screws. To prevent snapping the heads of the screws, always screw in by hand using a screwdriver. Use a screwdriver and 1-in. screws to secure the flanges to their tiers through the predrilled pilot holes. Once the flanges have been attached to all tiers, connect the tiers by threading the pipe lengths between the flanges. Use the 6-in. pipe to connect the bottom and middle tiers, and the 4-in. pipe to connect the middle tier to the top arched tier.

FAQ

What is the best way to store my controllers and headset?

Keeping your controllers and headset in a cool, dry, dark place is the best option.  Consider using a dedicated storage caddy to prevent misplacing or damaging your controllers and headset. To preserve the internal electronics of your gaming equipment, avoid high humidity and extreme temperatures.  Direct sunlight may also cause plastic to crack and damage over time.

Are all gaming controllers the same size?

Gaming controllers are not all the same size. Manufacturers aim for a universal size and fit, but the spacing of buttons, the shape of the grips, and the weight will vary.  You will also find smaller controllers geared for children.  Pricing also varies widely by controller and headset.

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What a Gas Tax Freeze Would Actually Mean for Drivers Right Now

Gas prices have nearly doubled since the Iran conflict started in February, and for the average family, that means spending an extra $200 a month on fill-ups. To try to ease that burden, some politicians are pushing to lower state gas taxes and least freeze tax increases. It’s a move that feels logical, but unfortunately doesn’t automatically lead to lower prices.

“A common misconception about gas taxes is that they are the reason for rising gas prices,” says cost-of-living and home financial expert Cody Schuiteboer. “However, crude oil prices, refinery capacity, regional requirements and fuel blends have a much higher impact on pump prices.”

Here’s what to know about gas taxes, including their pros and cons, and how much a tax reduction might save you at the pump.

What Is the Gas Tax?

A gas tax is a fee added to the price of gasoline by federal and state governments. The federal tax has been 18.4 cents per gallon (24.4 cents per gallon for diesel) since October 1993. State gas taxes vary and are used to support transportation infrastructure projects, such as maintaining roadways.

Which States Have a Gas Tax?

All 50 states, plus the District of Columbia, impose some form of gas tax. “There are many different formulas,” says Schuiteboer. “Some taxes are strictly per-gallon, some incorporate sales tax components, and some are adjusted automatically in line with inflation or wholesale fuel prices.”

Why Are Governors Trying to Freeze It Now?

Most of it is due to the sudden rise in crude oil prices. According to AAA, as of the first week of May, gas prices had risen to an average of $4.46 per gallon, nearly double what the price was before the U.S.-Iran conflict began on February 28.

But some of the gas tax freezes and reductions also have to do with political posturing in an election year. “This year presents the political season in which gas prices remain the single most prominent consumer expense on the national radar,” says Schuiteboer.

Which Governors Are Trying?

Kentucky Governor Andy Beshear signed an emergency regulation on May 5, which froze an upcoming state gas tax increase. He also signed an executive order to temporarily reduce the gas tax by ten cents per gallon, a move that could collectively save state residents almost $27 million per month.

Some other politicians taking steps toward lowering gas taxes include:

• Georgia Governor Brian Kemp signed a 60-day order suspending the state gas tax.
• Connecticut governor Ned Lamont is discussing the idea.
• Maryland legislators, who are also in the discussion stages.
• U.S. Representative Chris Pappas of New Hampshire, who proposed legislation to suspend the federal gas tax through October 2026.
• Several California presidential candidates are also suggesting pausing the state gas tax.

Even President Donald Trump has expressed he aims to suspend the federal gas tax to CBS News.

Benefits of a Gas Tax Freeze

It depends on how much you drive and your vehicle’s fuel efficiency, but for a family with two cars, Schuiteboer estimates that a 10-cent reduction in the gas tax would save a household $150 to $200 per year.

“These are substantial figures for a personal budget,” he says. But “it is important to stress that gas-tax suspension is just a part of an overall solution, and it cannot provide complete relief from the rising gas prices.”

Disadvantages of a Gas Tax Freeze

Because gas-tax revenue pays for the construction and repair of roads, bridges and other transportation infrastructure, the loss or reduction of a gas tax means less money and delays for those projects.

FAQ

Does a gas tax freeze lower prices at the pump immediately?

Nope. Taxes are applied at the wholesale level, so it’s up to retailers and wholesalers to choose to pass along those savings to customers, says Schuiteboer. In Kentucky, to prevent this, Beshear also activated the state statute on price gouging.

Have gas tax freezes worked in the past?

Sometimes. In 2022, Connecticut suspended its gas tax from April to December. “That amounted to real consumer savings,” says Schuiteboer. But in cases where price-gouging regulations aren’t in place, consumers tend not to see any savings.

Which states have the highest gas taxes?

According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA), the states with the highest gas taxes are:

• California, 70.9 cents
• Illinois, 66.4 cents
• Washington, 59.0 cents
• Pennsylvania, 53.7 cents
• Hawaii, 52.5-55.0 cents
• Conversely, Alaska has the lowest state gas tax, at about 9 cents per gallon.

About the Experts

• Cody Schuiteboer is president and CEO of Best Interest Financial, where he leads teams that assist individuals in navigating the bigger-picture cost-of-living impacts of fuel prices, home payment plans, transportation costs and household budgets.

Sources

CBS News: “Trump says he aims to suspend gas tax “for a period of time”

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The Hidden Reason Salt Shakers Have Grooves on the Bottom

Odds are you’re like most people in that you don’t think twice about the design or functionality of a salt shaker unless it’s clogged or stops working properly. But if you look closely, you’ll notice an interesting design choice on that small glass bottle: a series of tiny ridges molded along the bottom.

While they’re indeed decorative as well, their primary reason is for everyday function. Learn why salt shakers have ridges on the bottom, how the design helps in modern kitchens, dining rooms, and pantries, and why manufacturers include them today.

Why Salt Shakers Have Ridges on the Bottom

Ridges for salt shakers serve multiple functions.

Ridges or raised rings create traction between the shaker and the surface underneath it. Kitchen and dining tables collect moisture, condensation, crumbs, grease, debris, and fine dust. A completely smooth-bottomed bottle would slide around. This is especially true on polished countertops, glass tables, or other smooth surfaces.

While annoying, the bigger issue is that sliding can lead to the bottle easily breaking.

The small ridges lift the shaker off the surface for small points of contact instead of a flat base. This reduces slipping when someone picks it up or sets it down. The gap allows for airflow, preventing moisture from being trapped directly beneath the shaker, especially in humid kitchens or outdoor dining setups.

Some manufacturers attach molded plastic or rubber ridges to the bottom of the container, while others shape the material directly into the glass, ceramic, or metal. Glued ridges made from the shaker’s same material might also be used. Regardless, the design creates less friction against the table itself.

The Design Helps Protect Countertops, Too

The ridges don’t just protect the bottle from breaking. The design also reduces scratching and wear on certain countertops, particularly glass tabletops, polished stone counters, and finished wood. Shakers made out of materials like ceramic, glass, and stainless steel can leave marks if they slide repeatedly across stone or wood countertops.

Cooks who use salt shakers near stovetops may notice another benefit, as oils and steam can create a thin film on nearby counters, making smooth containers harder to grip.

However, not every salt shaker uses the same pattern. The number of ridges per bottle and the spacing between ridges vary on the material used and the manufacturer’s design style. Typically, vintage glass shakers feature thicker circular rings while newer designs use smaller textured patterns or rubberized grips.

Some high-end sets are designed for non-visible ridges, instead using soft pads or recessed bases. Restaurant shakers prioritize durability and easy handling.

The Design Could Assist in Dislodging Blockages

Seasoning lovers have discovered some surprising use-cases for the ridges on the bottom of salt shakers. Most people eventually run into the issue of seasonings clumping up in shakers due to humidity. By scraping a utensil like a knife or fork across the ridges on the shaker, the vibrations could help dislodge those blockages and make the seasoning flow from the shaker faster. Alternatively, you can rub the ridges on the bottom of one shaker against the bottom of another shaker to get the same effect.

Ridge Patterns on Other Glass Items

The ridge design is not exclusive to salt shakers. The most common household item that probably comes to mind is glass bottles, particularly beer bottles.

A study in the July/August 2022 issue of Glass Worldwide examined the value of the ridges, or knurling, and whether any design change was needed to the current standards.

“It is important to realise that the purpose of knurling is to separate damage created during normal handling of containers from the highly stressed region of the bearing surface,” the study says. “For normal knurl height, little if any damage will be produced in the valley between the knurls. However, as the knurl height diminishes, it is increasingly likely that damage could be created between the knurls during normal handling.”

Other glass items that feature a ridged bottom include mason jars, condiment bottles, soda bottles, and some candle containers designed for repeated handling and stacking.

So whether it’s a salt shaker, beer bottle, or mason jar sitting in the back of the pantry, take an extra look next time you’re handling one and appreciate modern designs and engineering.

Sources

Morton Salt: Heritage Era

Smithsonian: Would You Like Some Salt and Pepper? How About 80,000 Shakers’ Worth?

The Salt and Pepper Shaker Museum: FAQs

American Glass Research: Glass container knurling study

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• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling

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How to Paint Stripes on a Wall Like a Pro

Determine stripe spacing and size

Measure each wall you want to put stripes on from corner to corner. Use a calculator to work out the best size before putting anything on the wall. Divide the total wall length (all adjacent walls getting stripes) by your desired stripe width, then lay it out starting in the middle of the wall.

If you’re wrapping stripes around a corner, make sure the center of a stripe lands in each corner. If slight size adjustments are needed to your pattern, adjust the corner stripes. It will be less noticeable because half the corner stripe lands on each wall.

Measure and mark

Once you’ve determined the exact size of your stripes, transfer the measurements to the wall. Ours worked out to 10-in. stripes, so we started by measuring from the middle of the wall and making small, light pencil marks every 10 in. Using these marks as a guide, use a 6-ft. level to mark a plumb line from the top to the bottom of the wall. To further define the lines, use a chalk line.

Tip: Add baby powder to your chalk line to reduce the chalk’s color intensity. This makes it easier to wipe away and prevents a pronounced colored line from bleeding into the paint.

Tape the lines and burnish

Follow the chalk lines and apply painter’s tape to the wall. Be consistent in the placement of the tape — taping to the outside of the chalk line of the stripe being painted. This will allow you to paint over pencil marks and chalk. If you place the tape on the inside of the marked line, you will have to retouch to remove pencil marks. You will also have to wipe down the wall to remove chalk lines when you are done. Once you are satisfied with the placement, burnish the tape edge against the wall with a credit card, a spoon, or a plastic putty knife. This will create a good seal, prevent paint bleed, and reduce touch-ups.

Tip: To avoid confusion about which stripes to paint and which not to, place tape on the stripes you won’t be painting as a visual reminder.

Seal the edges with the base color

Use a 1-1/2-in. angled paint brush and paint along the inside edge of your taped-out stripe with the base coat color already on the wall. This will seal the edge of your paint line. If paint bleeds through, it will be the same color, making it impossible to notice. Consider this step insurance for crisp lines without wasting time on touchups.

Paint the Stripes

After the base coat sealing the inside edges of the tape lines has dried, use a roller to paint two coats of your stripe color between the sealed tape lines. Be sure to give ample drying time between each coat.

Tip: We used the same color paint to paint our stripes, but with a shinier semi-gloss sheen. Semi-gloss paint reflects the direction of the applied paint. To avoid showing texture or marks in your dried paint, pull the roller off the wall while you are still in motion. Keep a wet edge as you apply each new load of paint, and avoid heavy lap marks by lightly evening out the paint.

Pull the Tape

You have two windows to successfully remove the tape — when the paint is freshly applied and still tacky, or when it has fully cured and is dry (12 to 24 hours). Both will snap the paint edge cleanly. Pull the tape back at a 45-degree angle for the best results. Avoid removing tape when the paint is in between — partially dry but not cured — as this may produce pulls and tears in the finish.

Touch up as needed

Every striped wall will require a little bit of touchup. The goal is to minimize the amount. Use a small artist angled brush to clean up any bleed lines or imperfections along the stripe edges. Work with a steady hand and keep a damp rag nearby to catch any mistakes while the paint is still wet.

FAQ

What is a good size for painted stripes on a wall?

There is no steadfast rule about the size of painted stripes on a wall. It is more about the balance you want and how it divides out on the length of the wall being painted with stripes. For wider stripes, working with both an even number and an odd number in inches will help divide out the wall to a pleasing layout.  8, 9, 10, and 12-in. are a good place to start. The same theory applies for smaller stripes just do the math.

Should I paint vertical or horizontal stripes?

That depends on the effect you wish to create. Horizontal stripes will make a room feel wider, and vertical stripes give the illusion of tall ceilings. Vertical stripes are more traditional. Horizontal stripes give a modern feel and could lend themselves to a nautical theme. The paint color of your stripes will also have a huge impact on the effect they create.

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How to Build a Bluebird House From a Single Cedar Board

Layout the components

Layout your components on the 1×6 board. If you are using cedar, you may have a smooth and rough side. Face the rough side out on the exterior of the bluebird house.

• Use a tape measure and speed square to lay out each piece as in the drawing below. To account for the saw blade kerf, leave a 1/8-in. gap between each piece.
• For the sides (B), mark both edges of the board at 10-3/4-in. and connect them with a straight line. From one corner, measure 9-3/4-in. and connect it to the opposite 10-3/4-in. mark to create the roof slope. Mirror this for the second side.
• Label every piece to ensure accuracy during assembly.

Cut out the pieces

At the miter saw:

• Cutout each piece on the straight lines before any angled cuts.
• Set the miter saw angle to 10 degrees for the sloped tops of the side pieces (B).
• On the floor (E), cut off 1/2-in. x 1/2-in. triangles from each corner for drainage and ventilation. Use a long scrap board as a sub fence for better support. Set the saw to 45 degrees for these corner cuts.

Drill the entrance hole

Grab your front piece and head over to the drill press.

• On the front piece, find center along the top 5-1/2-in. edge. Measure 2 in. down from that center point on the front face. This marks the center of the entrance hole.
• Using a 1-1/2-in. Forstner bit, line up the point to your mark and drill completely through the front (A) into a sacrificial scrap under it to ensure the hole doesn’t blow out.

Make the angled cuts

Use your table saw or miter saw to cut 10-degree bevels at the top edges of the front (A) and back (C) pieces so they align with the roof pitch. And, at the back edge of the roof (D), so it aligns with the back (C) when assembled. To ensure consistency with a rough exterior and smooth interior, be aware of the position of the rough side of the cedar relative to these bevels.

Assemble the birdhouse

Remember to assemble the birdhouse with the cedar rough side out and the smooth side in. Dry-fit all pieces with clamps first to ensure they are flush.

• Stand the back (C) with the beveled edge up. Place the left side piece (B) on the inside of the back piece. Flush the edges and clamp. The slope of the right side (B) and the bevel of the back (C) piece should be aligned.
• Use a nail gun with exterior-rated 1-1/4-in. 18-gauge Brad nails and nail the back (C) to the side (B).
• Place the front (A) so the left side is sandwiched between the front and back. Ensure the bevel on top of the front piece is sloped the same direction as the back and side piece. Clamp and nail together.
• Insert the floor (E), recessing it 1/4-in. off the bottom edge of the front (A), back (C), and left side (B) to keep it dry. Clamp and nail through the front, back, and left side.

Make the hinged door

• Insert the right-side piece (B). Make a mark 1-1/2-in. down from the top edge of the front (A), and 3/8-in. in over towards the entry hole for placement of the pivot screw.
• Use a speed square to transfer the mark from the front (A) to the back (C), ensuring the pivot screws are aligned. Mark this location 3/8-inch in from the back (C) edge to match the mark on the front(A).
• Predrill and insert two 2-in. deck screws. Don’t over-tighten, as they act as the pivot point.
• Finish the assembly by aligning the roof (D) with the beveled back edge flush with the back piece. The roof (D) will lay in the direction of the slope. Nail it to the front (A) and back (C). The 1/4-in. gap between the roof and the sides helps with ventilation.
• Attach a panel clip to the lower back edge of the back (C) on the right side of the birdhouse to keep the door closed. Pre-drill the hole before securing it with a 1/2-inch screw to avoid splitting the wood.

 Attach a mounting bracket

• Turn your bird house upside down on its head.
• Center the mounting bracket on the bottom of the floor (E). Mark and pre-drill four shallow holes, then secure the bracket with 3/4-in. screws
• When all is done, install it on a T-stake outside and watch the birds fly in.

For added protection, you can add a baffle to the T-stake to prevent predators from getting close to the birdhouse. If you don’t like the look of a T-post, you can mount it on a pole or a wooden post as well.

FAQ

Where do you put bluebird houses?

You want to place bluebird houses in sunny, open areas with large expanses of grass. Set them on a birdhouse post four to six feet high to make it harder for predators from entering. Avoid placing them in shaded areas and too close to feeders.

What direction should a bluebird house face?

Ideally, you would want to face the birdhouse east, southeast facing away from the prevailing winds and rain from entering through the entrance hole. Facing it east, southeast helps warm up the nest as the sun rises and shades it from the afternoon heat.

How to keep sparrows out of a bluebird house?

To keep sparrows out, regularly monitor the birdhouse. If you notice sparrows entering and leaving, they may be making a nest inside. If that is the case, remove the nesting materials to push them away. You can also remove the birdhouse or plug it up until sparrows lose interest.

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