If Your Car Battery Keeps Dying, Here’s How to Find Out Why

Like tires and brakes, car batteries also wear down over time and require replacement. But what if you have a newer battery that’s losing its charge? It could be defective, or it could be getting drained by a malfunctioning or improperly wired element of the vehicle. Fixing this issue is crucial to avoid frustrating jump starts or being stranded with a car that won’t start. Ahead, learn how to figure out what’s draining your car battery — and how to fix it — with car expert Justin Dugan of American Muscle.

Signs Your Car Battery Is Being Drained

The main sign that your battery is draining rather than dying is “a car that has difficulty starting after sitting for a relatively short period of time, although the battery appeared to be functioning well prior to this,” Dugan says. For example, if you park your car on Friday and need to jump-start it on Monday, then again a few days later, this is a pattern that indicates a draining battery, which can have several causes.

While you may also notice dimmer-than-normal interior lights and a slow engine crank, these signs alone do not indicate a drained battery. It’s a battery that keeps dying and needs repeated jump-starts, likely paired with these signs that point to a drained battery. “Repeated dead-battery failures are typically indicative of either a problem with the vehicle’s charging system or the wiring configuration, and not solely due to a weak battery,” Dugan says.

Common Causes of a Draining Car Battery

Accidental

Leaving headlights, interior lights or the radio on while the engine is off is a common cause of a drained car battery. A simple jump start should solve the problem.

Parasitic draws

A more complex cause is parasitic draw, where an element of the car continues to draw power from the battery even when the engine is off. “The actual cause of battery drain is not necessarily the battery itself, but rather a component that has failed within the car and is continuing to draw power, or an accessory that was wired continuously to the battery instead of being tied into a keyed ignition circuit,” Dugan says.

Accessories like dash cams, sound systems and custom lighting can lead to drain if connected directly to the battery. Alternatively, a faulty ignition switch, door sensor or relays can fail to disconnect electrical components from the battery when the ignition turns off.

Alternator issues

A faulty alternator will fail to charge the battery while driving, leading to repeated jump starts. Also, failing alternator diodes can lead to alternator backfeed, where electricity flows backward from the battery, also causing drain.

How To Diagnose What’s Draining the Battery

Parasitic draws

“The diagnostic process is primarily about being systematic and deliberate in eliminating potential sources of the drain, versus making random guesses,” Dugan says. “Eliminate all the obvious expected draws, such as clock memory or courtesy lights, and then systematically go through the remainder of the system.”

Use a multimeter to identify the circuit draining your battery, then focus on the components in that circuit.

• Turn the car off and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes with the doors closed and lights off.
• Remove the negative charge cable from the battery.
• With your multimeter set to DC, connect the black multimeter lead to the battery’s negative charge cable and the red multimeter lead to the negative post on the battery.
• With the multimeter in place, remove fuses one at a time until the amp reading drops, indicating the source of the drain.

“This will give you information regarding whether you are dealing with a defective component, an alternator backfeed or a device that has been improperly wired to a wrong source of power,” Dugan says.

Alternator

If you did not find any sources of parasitic draws, consider alternator issues next. Signs to look for include:

• A screeching or grinding sound occurs when the engine is running.
• Flickering headlights or multiple electrical issues, like slow power windows or malfunctioning power door locks.
• Over 100,000 miles on your vehicle, which could indicate the alternator is nearing the end of its life.

Fixes for Common Battery Drain Problems

How to fix battery-drain issues depends on the cause. For parasitic draws, replace any malfunctioning aftermarket parts and re-wire any accessories connected directly to battery power. “Remove the component from the constant battery source and provide it with a proper keyed ignition or accessory circuit so that it no longer drains the battery when the vehicle is parked,” Dugan says.

Replace a defective alternator if this is deemed the source of battery drain.

FAQ

How long should a car battery last?

Car batteries can last three to seven years, depending on your driving habits and climate.

Can short drives drain a car battery?

Yes, frequent, short drives can drain a car battery and shorten its life span.

About the Experts

• Justin Dugan is a car expert and brand ambassador at American Muscle, an aftermarket parts provider for performance vehicles.

Related

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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2026’s Biggest Retail Closings — And the Surprising Brands Still Growing

When it comes to keeping an eye on the economy, you’re most likely focused on where you can get your basics for the best price. But another good metric to look at is which retailers are opening new stores versus which ones are closing stores. Coresight Research (via CNBC) recently announced its list of retailers with the most new openings and closings, so we broke down the numbers for you.

Which Retailers Have the Most New Openings?

Per CNBC, the top ten retailers opening new stores span a variety of sectors. The spread varies from budget stores to specialty candle stores. It’s not limited by retailer size either; the largest retailer has over 20,000 stores open at the moment, while the smallest one on this top ten list currently has just 64 stores open. The complete top ten list is as follows:

Store	Stores Open	Stores Opening
Dollar General	20,901	483
Aldi	2,624	168
Tractor Supply	2,364	100
Barnes & Noble	667	60
Target	1,995	43
Dollar Tree	9,269	33
Casey’s	2,921	27
7-Eleven	12,912	21
Pop Mart	64	20
Yankee Candle	223	20

Which Retailers Have the Most New Closings?

Much like the openings, the closings span industries and chain sizes. Perhaps most jarring is the Amazon Fresh closures; the company seems to be shutting down every single Amazon Fresh location it has.

Store	Stores Open	Stores Closing
Gamestop	2,100	467
Francesca’s	457	402
Walgreens	7,960	350
American Signature	122	94
Carter’s	808	61
7-Eleven	12,912	57
Amazon Fresh	57	57
Kroger	2,694	40
Dollar General	20,901	34
Torrid	560	20

How Does This Compare to 2025?

These numbers do differ from the top retailers’ openings and closings for 2025. Closings overall are trending down compared to last year, while openings have stayed roughly on par.

The openings for 2025 include:

• Dollar General: 611 stores
• Dollar Tree: 442 stores
• Alimentation Couche-Tard (Cirkle K): 342 stores
• Aldi: 225 stores
• 7-Eleven: 198 stores
• Five Below: 146 stores
• Casey’s: 145 stores
• Burlington: 141 stores
• Ace Hardware: 132 stores
• The TJX family (e.g. TJ Maxx, HomeGoods, etc): 93 stores

Meanwhile, the closures for 2025 include:

• Rite Aid: 1,292 stores
• Joann’s: 815 stores
• Party City: 738 stores
• Big Lots: 682 stores
• Gamestop: 671 stores
• Claire’s: 485 stores
• Walgreens: 479 stores
• 7-Eleven: 426 stores
• Forever 21: 375 stores
• CVS: 271 stores

Source

Here are the retailers with the most store openings and closures planned for 2026, CNBC, February 2026.

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Walmart’s Price Tags Are Going Digital — Could It Lead to Surge Pricing?

By the end of 2026, Walmart is aiming to roll out digital price labels across most of its 4,600 stores. Many experts see this as a positive step, though it does raise a few concerns.

“These small electronic displays allow stores to update their prices wirelessly, in a couple of seconds,” says attorney Martin Gasparian. “The thing to be wary of is that it can lead to surge pricing. Many consumers are already thinking this is what is going to happen, given the state of the world and the inflation, not to mention other economic pressures.”

Here’s what to know about the pros and cons of Walmart’s new digital labels, plus other tips for finding the best deals.

What Are Digital Price Labels?

Digital price labels, aka digital shelf labels or DSLs, are small electronic displays that replace paper price tags on store shelves. Because they are connected wirelessly to a central system, they eliminate the need for employees to manually swap paper slips to update prices.

“Retailers like them because they reduce the messy gap between what the shelf says and what the checkout charges, especially during sales,” says retail software expert Gordon Cummins. “They also cut hours of repetitive labor and associated costs, which is why you are seeing more big chains move in this direction.”

How Do Walmart’s New Digital Labels Work?

Walmart’s DSLs work the same way as they do in other stores. They display prices, and sometimes promotional details and scannable QR and NFC codes.

“The less obvious part is operational,” says Cummins. “Walmart has said the labels can light up to help associates find what needs stocking, and guide picking for online orders, which is really about speed and accuracy behind the scenes for employees.”

The Pros of Walmart’s Digital Labels

For customers, the biggest advantage of digital labels is reducing frustration from price mismatches between shelves and checkout registers. They also display deals more quickly.

“From our data at Decodo, 53% of Walmart’s price changes in 2025 were markdowns,” says dynamic pricing expert Gabriele Vitke. “DSLs mean those deals hit the shelf immediately, instead of sitting in a queue.”

For stores, DSLs also eliminate time spent on replacing paper tags. “The old process is painfully slow,” says Vitke. “For example, a large store could take two days to replace paper tags for special sales events. Multiply that across tens of thousands of products, with weekly rollbacks and markdowns, and you’re burning huge amounts of labor on a task that technology can handle with just a few clicks.”

Potential Cons of Walmart’s Digital Labels

One concern with all digital labels is surge pricing, aka dynamic pricing. That’s when businesses change prices based on demand. For example, they might raise prices during high-traffic holidays, or even on sunscreen on a sunny day.

Walmart, specifically, has stated that it won’t use DSLs for dynamic pricing. Consumer psychologist and professor Ross Steinman believes that promise will hold true. “While there are legitimate concerns about surge pricing, I believe Walmart will be reluctant to use such a strategy, as it risks alienating key target markets and could negatively affect brand equity in the long term,” he says.

Vitke agrees. “The trust gap is the biggest risk,” she says. “Our data shows that roughly half of all price changes [at Walmart] are actually decreases, but if you ask shoppers, most assume dynamic pricing only means one thing: higher prices when stores think they can get away with it.”

Another risk of digital price labels is that they can quickly amplify data errors, such as incorrect sizes and promotions, across a store or even a region, says online retailer James Lei. “There is also a customer experience risk if stores overuse flashing cues or visual indicators, creating clutter that makes shelf edges harder to read,” he says.

How to Get the Best Prices

Shop on Mondays, says Vitke. “Our data shows grocery prices tend to be higher on Saturdays and drop on Mondays and Wednesdays, particularly at Walmart and Kroger,” she says. Also, “Frozen foods and dairy have the highest price volatility, with deep drop rates of around 35%.”

Also, if an item has an unusually good price, snap a quick photo of the shelf label before you walk away, says Cummins.

FAQ

Will digital price labels lead to surge pricing at Walmart?

The company has publicly stated that it will not, and most of the experts we talked with believed that they will honor that claim. “Retailers are constrained by brand trust, competitive expectations and pricing and disclosure rules, plus the practical reality that shoppers react strongly to perceived volatility in essentials,” says Lei.

How will digital labels impact jobs at Walmart?

Some people are concerned that DSLs could result in workforce reduction. Again, many of the experts we talked to say that’s unlikely, as employee hours once devoted to swapping tags will be transferred into other tasks, such as helping customers, stocking shelves, fulfilling shipping and delivery and replacing batteries in DSLs.

Walmart, specifically, has positioned DSLs as a way to make associates’ jobs easier and store execution cleaner, not as a headcount cut, says Cummins.

However, “The honest answer is that this type of automation typically does lead to fewer hours needed for certain tasks over time,” says Vitke. “It may not mean immediate layoffs, but it could mean fewer positions are filled as workforce needs naturally shift.

Can digital shelf labels track customer behavior?

Not as they’re currently configured. Walmart has stated its DSLs will run on a closed loop, meaning they’re only used to update prices and track stock. But, your shopping habits are likely still being tracked through apps, loyalty accounts, point-of-sale data and, with some retailers, cameras and Wi-Fi signals, says Cummins. “The bigger privacy conversation is about the broader data ecosystem, not the shelf tag,” he says.

About the Experts

• Ross Steinman, PhD, is a consumer psychologist and award-winning professor at Widener University. His primary teaching interest is in the intersection of psychology and business.
• Gordon Cummins is CEO of Cudio, a company that helps retailers deploy, customize and optimize their software systems.
• Gabriele Vitke is the product marketing team lead and a dynamic pricing expert at Decodo, a data access and web intelligence platform. She leads the research behind the annual Dynamic Pricing Index, which tracks over 1.5 million data points across more than 120 eCommerce platforms worldwide.
• James Lei is chief operating officer at the online retailer ooShirts, and has experience with SaaS, cloud infrastructure, AI, digital transformation, e-commerce trends and online shopping technology and strategies.
• Martin Gasparian is an attorney and business expert at Maison Law Modesto, and has worked for various major corporations.

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Everything to Know to Keep a White Sofa Looking Brand New

Use a Fabric Protectant

Marisol Rivera, a cleaning expert and professional organizer at Sparkly Maid Austin, notes that applying a fabric protectant is crucial to keep white sofas white. That said, you need to ensure you use the correct fabric protectant depending on the type of sofa you’re maintaining.

“A quality fabric protector creates an invisible barrier on the fibers that causes liquids to bead on the surface instead of soaking in immediately,” says Rivera. “For fabric sofas, I use Scotchgard Fabric and Upholstery Protector, [and] for leather, I use a dedicated leather protectant cream.”

She advises evenly spraying and ensuring a complete dry at least twice a year for optimal protection.

Don’t Rub Spills

If you spill anything on your white sofa (which will likely happen even if you do your best to avoid it), knowing how to clean it properly (and within the first 30 seconds or so after spilling) is essential.

Rivera explains that you should never rub spills. Instead, you should blot them. “Grab a clean white cloth, press it straight down onto the spill, and lift,” she notes. “Rubbing pushes the liquid deeper into the fibers and spreads the stain outward, turning a small spot into a large discolored area.” She also suggests keeping your cleaning cloths white to prevent any accidental color transfers.

Regularly Rotate and Flip Cushions

As you would with a bed, Rivera notes that you need to regularly rotate and flip cushions to keep white sofas white. “Rotating your cushions spreads the wear evenly so that no single cushion develops yellowing, pilling, or permanent indentations faster than the rest,” she explains. “This also ensures even sun fading if your sofa is near a window, since UV exposure gradually changes the tone of white fabric over time.”

Deep Clean Every Few Months

Deep cleaning every few months has a significant impact on keeping white sofas white. “For fabric sofas, mix a small amount of mild dish soap or a gentle upholstery cleaner with warm water, dampen a white microfiber cloth with the solution, and wipe down the entire sofa section by section,” says Rivera. If any cushion covers are removable, she recommends washing those as well. You want to ensure that any oils, sweat, and dirt that may end up on your sofa are removed.

That said, the correct cleaning products depend on whether you’re cleaning a fabric or leather sofa. If you’re tending to a white fabric sofa, she recommends a mild dish soap, and if you’re caring for a white leather sofa, she recommends a specialty leather cleaner

Vacuum Your Sofa Weekly

Rivera notes that vacuuming should be part of your weekly sofa cleaning and maintenance routine to keep your white sofa white. “Use the upholstery attachment on your vacuum once a week and get into every seam, crevice, and gap between the cushions,” says Rivera. Don’t forget to vacuum the frame underneath the sofa cushions, too. If you don’t do this, you risk dirt seeping into your white sofa, making it harder to remove.

Mind Your Feet

Your shoes and/or feet can bring unnecessary dirt and even footprints onto your sofa. While it might be tempting to skip taking off your shoes and/or changing into a clean pair of socks before making your way onto your white sofa, it is important (and worth it) to put in the extra effort. If you don’t do this, Olivia Parks, owner and lead organizer of Professional Organizers Baton Rouge, notes that you can generally expect the typical areas where feet would rest to become discolored–and nobody wants that.

Avoid Using Bleach

While this might seem counterintuitive, Rivera advises against using bleach on white sofas. “Bleach, even diluted, can weaken and yellow fabric fibers over time,” says Rivera. Parks adds that the best thing you can do when cleaning is to use chemicals specifically designed for upholstery or the type of material the sofa you want to protect is made of.

About the Experts

• Marisol Rivera is a cleaning expert and professional organizer at Sparkly Maid Austin.
• Olivia Parks is the owner and lead organizer of Professional Organizers Baton Rouge.

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Is Your HVAC System Making Your Allergies Worse?

HVAC systems are designed to be air-cleaning allies, but when not set up and maintained correctly, they can actually spread allergens around, degrading the air quality in your home.

“That can cause a range of symptoms,” says air-quality expert Michael Rubino. “If you are experiencing fatigue, brain fog, digestive issues, skin irritation, mood swings or any chronic symptoms, consider assessing the home and HVAC system for possible issues.”

Here’s how to determine if your HVAC system is making your allergies worse, and what to do about it.

Why Can HVAC Systems Cause Allergy Issues?

HVAC systems don’t create fresh air, but rather circulate existing inside air. That means they can either help remove dust, dander, mold and other allergens, or disseminate them throughout the house.

For example, “If there is pet hair in the living room, mold spores in the basement or pollen in the hallway, the return tubes of your HVAC system will pick up all of those allergens and send them properly to every bedroom,” says HVAC specialist Russ Teaca.

HVAC’s tend to exacerbate allergies when:

• Ducts are harboring a buildup of dust and debris.
• Mold and mildew has formed around the AC coils.
• Air filters are dirty or of low-quality.
• Air filters are Improperly fitted.

The effects can be even worse in modern buildings, which are often more tightly sealed for energy efficiency. “That makes filtration even more important, because particles that get indoors may linger longer if they are not effectively removed,” says allergy and air-quality expert Dr. John McKeon.

How to Tell If Your HVAC System Is Contributing to Your Allergies

Periodic Congestion

If you stop feeling congested when you leave your home, your allergies occur beyond seasonal periods, or they get worse when the HVAC system kicks on, those are all indications of HVAC issues.

“I call it the sneezing alarm clock,” says Teaca. “As soon as the heat or air conditioning starts to work, if you or your kids start to sneeze, cough or get stuffy noses, that is a huge red flag.”

Dusty Ceiling Fans and Vents

If your your ceiling fan blades and HVAC vent louvers are dusty, that often points to dirty HVAC ducts, or possibly another large source of dust in your home. “And, if it seems like dust reappears on surfaces soon after you clean them, the HVAC system probably isn’t doing its job to filter, and instead redistributing particles,” says HVAC expert Caleb Caviness.

Odors

Damp or dusty odors right after the HVAC unit kicks on are good indicators of something being amiss. Dust is likely a sign there is debris in the ducts, or that your filters are clogged. “If your air smells like a damp basement for the first 30 seconds after the AC kicks on, it’s a sign of bacterial or fungal growth on the coils,” says Caviness.

Weak Airflow

If your filter looks visibly dirty or clogged, that means it’s overloaded with dust and debris. That causes airflow to drop, plus allows more particles to get through the filter. It also makes your HVAC system work harder, which can reduce its lifespan.

Tips to Mitigate HVACs Causing Allergies

Use the Correct Filter

Choose filters with the highest level MERV rating that your HVAC is approved for. Usually, that’s between 11 and 13. Don’t go above what’s recommended, or you can damage your system.

Make sure the filter fits properly, and look for one certified Asthma & Allergy Friendly (AAFA), says McKeon. “Don’t rely on vague marketing language,” he says. “Terms like ‘hypoallergenic’ can be unregulated, while independent certification requires measurable proof of performance.”

Replace Filters Regularly

Replace filters according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When pollen counts are higher, consider replacing them more often. Set up a recurring reminder on your phone, or automatic delivery from the filter company, says HVAC filter expert Rick Hoskins.

Service the System

Regularly have your HVAC system professionally serviced. Rubino recommends doing it in the spring, before you make the switch from heat to air conditioning. “The technician should test for mold, clean the coil blower, furnace and cabinet and ensure everything is working properly,” he says.

Help Your System

Keep your house clean and stay on top of pet grooming, so the HVAC unit has less to filter. “Pay special attention to fabric surfaces like curtains, upholstery and carpets,” says Hoskins. “These are prime places for dust to settle.”

Also:

• Keep windows and doors closed when the air quality is poor outside.
• Don’t store belongings near the vents.
• Try to maintain an indoor humidity between 35 and 50%, which will help prevent microbial growth.

Check the Ductwork

Most ducts develop leaks, which means they can suck in dust and fiberglass particles from crawl spaces and attics, and water vapor from the basement. “One of the best things you can do for your allergies and your energy bill is to seal your ducts with mastic or heavy-duty foil tape,” says Teaca.

Consider an Upgrade

A whole-home air purification system, or individual room air purifiers can help reduce allergens even more.

Also, consider installing a UV-C light over the indoor coil, says Teaca. “It gets rid of mold and bacteria where they start, before they can get into your pipes,” he says. Caviness also suggests installing a UV germicidal light inside the air handler to kill bacteria and germs.

For those with serious asthma and allergies, switching to a ductless mini-split heat pump might be the ticket, says Teaca. “They instantly clean and condition the air in the room where they are placed,” he says. “This is why they are so popular in master bedrooms, where people need the cleanest air possible to sleep.”

About the Experts

• Dr. John McKeon, MD, is CEO of Allergy Standards Ltd. (ASL), part of the iAIR Group, an international organization dedicated to advancing healthier indoor environments through research, standards development and education.
• Michael Rubino is a mold and air-quality expert, environmental wellness advocate, founder of HomeCleanse and creator of the Guardian, the world’s first indoor air quality security system.
• Caleb Caviness is general manager of AryCo, an HVAC, plumbing and electrical services company in North Texas.
• Rick Hoskins is an HVAC air quality and filter expert, and CEO at FilterKing, which provides custom filtration solutions for homes, commercial buildings, healthcare facilities and industrial applications.
• Russ Teaca is director and lead technician at Reliable Heating and Air, HVAC specialists serving Los Angeles and Ventura counties.

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The Little-Known Differences Between Streets, Roads, Avenues and More

Do you ever wonder why roadways have the names they do, and why the names seem so random? The route to town from my home in the mountains includes a “lane,” two “grades” to get down the mountain, a pair of “roads,” a two-lane “highway” and a “drive.” Sometimes I end up on “Redwood Circle,” which, as far as I can tell, is a perfectly straight roadway. Other roadways in my town are designated “avenue,” “boulevard,” and “crescent,” and let’s not forget the “freeway” that runs through the middle of the county.

“This is a great topic,” says Reetie Lubana, who works closely with architects, engineers and infrastructure teams on urban projects. “Road naming is something people see every day but rarely question.” Maybe you’ve never thought about road names before, or maybe you have. Either way, Lubana and British transport consultant Michael Okubajo are here to explain the history and rationale behind road names, also known as odonyms.

Historical Origins of Road Naming Conventions

The history of road names in North America countries reflects the fact that they were once colonies. “Road naming conventions largely come from older European planning traditions, especially in cities like Paris and London,” explains Lubana. “Originally, the terms actually meant something quite specific — ‘streets’ were paved urban routes, ‘avenues’ were more formal, often tree-lined approaches, and ‘boulevards’ were built on former city walls and designed to be wide and prominent.”

Road names can also have geographical and local cultural significance. Roads in Spanish-speaking regions, for example, may be designated “calle,” which is Spanish for “street,” “camino,” which means “path,” or “paseo,” which is a small walking lane. In French-speaking Quebec, “camino” becomes “chemin,” and an urban road running along mountainous terrain is not a grade but a “côte.”

Common Types of Roadways

If you browse through a list of odonyms for any North American city, you’ll be amazed at the variety of designations. There are too many to list, but here are a few common ones that you’ll find in almost any city:

• Road – This is a default term that can apply to any paved thoroughfare. A road can be anything from a small residential thoroughfare to a large urban artery.
• Street – According to Lubana, a “street” is a type of urban road that’s usually pedestrian-focused and tied to buildings. Main Street is an obvious example.
• Avenue – “An ‘avenue’ tends to carry more traffic or be designed with scale and visual presence in mind,” says Lubana. Think 7th Avenue in New York. Confusingly, one of Toronto, Ontario’s main thoroughfares is called Avenue Road. Does that make it an avenue, or a road? No one knows.
• Boulevard – A “boulevard” is similar to an avenue in scope and purpose, but the main difference between them is that a boulevard has a dividing median, often landscaped, while an avenue does not. Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles is true to this distinction in some parts, such as West Hollywood and Hollywood, but not in others.
• Drive – A “drive” is typically a roadway that meanders along natural terrain. Seventeen-Mile Drive on the Monterey Peninsula is a famous and scenic example.
• Lane – The term “lane” typically refers to a small residential roadway with light traffic. I happen to live on a “Lane.” It’s a tiny one-lane thoroughfare with a 15 mph speed limit. Similar terms would be “way,” “crescent,” and yes…” circle”.
• Highway/Freeway – A “highway” is a main artery that connects different cities (or different parts of a large city) to each other. That’s also true of a “freeway,” but freeways have several more lanes than highways, are never interrupted by intersections (you have to use on- and off-ramps) and have higher speed limits.

Do These Terms Always Mean What They Should?

Not really. According to Okubajo, roadway terms historically described how a route was used, but in modern planning, those distinctions have largely broken down.

“I’ve worked on schemes where a road designed to carry significant traffic is still called a ‘lane’ simply to make it feel more residential, or where ‘boulevard’ is used to signal a higher-quality, place-led environment, even if the underlying road geometry isn’t very different from a standard distributor road,” says Okubajo. “In that sense, naming has become a subtle tool of place-making and perception management.”

Lubana says simply: “A lot … comes down to legacy naming, developer choices, or even branding decisions rather than strict planning standards.”

Do These Terms Always Mean The Same Thing?

In historic and technical terms, perhaps yes, but in practice, not necessarily. Okubajo explains that planners and engineers classify roads based on function — things like traffic flow, capacity, and connectivity within the wider network. “The public-facing name rarely reflects that,” he says. “This is why you can have a ‘High Street’ that carries very little traffic, or a ‘Road’ that functions more like a local access street.”

Road Naming in Urban Planning

Road naming happens at the municipal level, says Lubana, and urban planners have a lot to consider, including zoning, historical context, and practical needs like clarity for emergency responders. “There’s also often a community or cultural element involved,” she says, “especially when cities want names to reflect local identity.”

FAQ

Why do road names matter?

One reason is that road names can affect home values, according to an article in the New York Times. Buyers often consider a home on a “lane,” “way,” or “place” more desirable than one on a “street” or “boulevard,” because the former designations connote small, family-friendly neighborhoods, while the latter connote heavy business activity and traffic.

What is a highway or parkway?

Both parkways and highways are thoroughfares designed to move lots of traffic quickly. The difference between them is mostly one of purpose, says Lubana. “Highways are built for efficiency and volume, while parkways are typically designed to be more scenic and may limit heavy vehicles.”

About the Experts

• Reetie Lubana is the marketing director at Tejjy Inc., an architectural engineering firm based in Washington, D.C.
• Michael Okubajo is a consultant with Captial Transport Planning. He has over a decade of experience working on infrastructure and development projects across the UK.

Sources

• YourDictionary: Odonym Definition; (2026)
• The New York Times: The Secret of Street Names and Home Values; (2015)

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How to Build a Chair From a Single Sheet of Plywood

Lay out the components on the plywood

Using a pencil, lay out all the components that you need to build the chair on your 4×8 plywood sheet. Use a  T-square to draw all straight lines and trammel points for drawing the curves. To ensure accurate dimensions as you lay out the pieces, be sure to account for the 1/8-in. kerf that you will lose with every cut of the blade in between the different pieces.

Make the straight cuts

Strategically make all the straight cuts using a table saw, circular saw, or track saw. If you don’t have a track saw, clamp a straight piece of wood to run the circular saw against to ensure a straight cut.

Cut the arched pieces for the seat and backrest (A), sides (B) and footrest (C) square. Ex: 20-in. x 20-in. or 23-3/4-in. x 23-3/4-in. It’ll make it easier to find a consistant center points and cut the arches. Cut the smaller square spacers (D + E) out of the remaining parts of the sheet on the miter saw after you’ve cut the bigger squares.

Cut the curves

For the arched sides of the seat and backrest (A) and the chair sides (B), use a trim router with a straight-cut bit attached to a router circle jig. Find the center of the squares and set the circle cutting jig to cut a circle with the same diameter as the width of the cut square. Start with shallow cuts, sequentially exposing the tip of the router bit with every pass until you work through the thickness of the material. Be sure to clamp down your plywood as you make cuts with the router. Check the pivot point of the circle jig and the cutting edge of the router bit to ensure you are cutting along the drawn lines.

The footrest arches (C) are laid out the same as the others: find the center of the board, and route an arch that spans from the peak to the centerline on each side. However, to route this swooping arc on a narrow board, the pivot point must be 7-11/16 inches off the board. Be sure to secure the footrest arch piece (C) and whatever substrate the pivot-point nail is stuck into to the bench with zero chance of movement while routing.

Pair and match your arch pieces

Take your arch-cut pieces and pair them up — two backrests (A), two seats (A), and two sets of sides (B). When you have the pairs, clamp them together and run a straight bit with a top bearing along the curved edge of each. This will eliminate any inconsistencies between the two pieces and make them as similar as possible. This is important later when the connecting strips need to be aligned across both faces.

From now on, keep each pair together.

Another thing worth noting is that plywood faces aren’t the same on both sides – one side tends to be lighter, smoother, or cleaner than the other. Select which side you want facing out, and lightly pencil the inside face so you don’t forget. It sounds like a small thing, but when the chair is fully assembled, you’ll notice that one panel is facing the wrong way.

Round over the outer edges

Run a trim router with a 1/4-in. round-over bit along the outer top edge of each arch panel (A, B, and C). Hit the top face only — leave the inside edge square so the connecting strips sit flush and square when you assemble it.

Finish the inside faces

Before gluing anything together, apply a coat of tung oil to the interior faces of all your arch panels (A, B, and C) and all six sides of the connecting spacers (D and E). Once the chair is assembled, you won’t be able to reach these surfaces.

You’ll notice that the oiled plywood looks noticeably different from the raw plywood, which is actually a good visual reminder of what you’ve finished and what you haven’t. Finish the exterior faces and edges of the arched panels (A, B, and C) after the chair is assembled.

Build the seat and backrest slabs

Lay one of the 20-in. arched panels (A) flat on the bench. Starting at the peak of the arch, glue and pin nail small spacers (D) along the curved edge. Use a second spacer (D) to keep a consistent 1-1/2-inch gap between each block.

Shoot 23-ga. pin nails from underneath the arch (A), keeping the nail gun perpendicular to the piece and your fingers out of the way. These tiny pins can shoot out in any direction.

Secure your larger spacers (E) along the flat bottom of the arch panels (A) in the same way — evenly spaced with the same 1-1/2-in. gap between them.

Once all the spacers (D and E) are nailed to the first arch (A), apply glue to the exposed tops of each spacer (D and E), then lay the second arched panel (A) directly on top, closing the sandwich. Secure the second arch (A) with 23-ga. pin nails as well.

Repeat for the other small arched panels (A). You should now have two identical sandwiched slabs — one will become the seat and one the backrest.

Join the seat and backrest

Bring the seat and backrest panels together at a 90-degree angle — the flat bottom edge of the backrest slab meeting the flat back edge of the seat slab. Glue the joint, clamp it, and check square with a speed square before fastening it together with a couple of hidden 1-1/2-in. screws between the large spacers (E) from inside the seat slab. Use a countersink bit so the screw heads sit below the surface of the plywood.

Attach blocks to the side panels

This follows the same process as building the seat and backrest panels — with one key difference. You’re only doing half the sandwich slab for now.
Take one curved piece from each of your large arched panel (B) pairs. Glue and pin nail the small spacer blocks (D) along the curved edge, starting from the center of the arch and working out. Use an extra spacer (D) to keep a consistent 1-1/2-inch gap between each spacer (D). Run the large spacers (E)  along the flat bottom edge the same way.

Unlike the seat and backrest, don’t close these out with the second curved piece yet — set both half-assembled slabs aside for now.

Mark the seat position on the side panels

Take the side-arched panels (B) that don’t have any spacers attached. On each one, draw an angled pencil line connecting two points: 13 inches up from the bottom corner on the back edge, to 15 inches up from the bottom corner on the front edge. The lines don’t need to run the full width — 10 to 15 inches is enough to see them during assembly.

Draw a second line parallel to the first, exactly three inches above it, toward the peak of the arch. These two lines mark the top and bottom faces of where the seat slab will land on the side panel (B).

The point where the lower line starts — 13 inches up the back edge — is where the heel of the seat/backrest “L” assembly will attach.

Flip the panel over and transfer both lines to the other face. This keeps your nails and screws aligned when you’re fastening from either side.

Attach the side panels to the seat assembly

Work one side at a time. Set the seat/backrest “L” assembly on its side and position the side (B) — the one without the spacers (D and E) — on top of it, aligning the seat to the angled lines you drew in step 10. The heel of the seat should sit right at the back edge where your bottom line begins.

Glue the joint, tack it with 18-gauge nails, then drive 1-1/2-in. screws into the connection — aim them at the spacers (D) inside the seat sandwich so they have something solid to bite into. These fasteners will all be hidden once the other side panel (B) is closed over them.

Flip the chair over and repeat on the other side with the other side panel (B). Before you fasten it, double-check that the bottom edge of the arch panel (B) is at the same height as the first side — if they are off by even a slight amount, the chair will rock.

Close the side panels

With the seat/backrest “L” assembly now fastened to both loose side panels (B), close both sides. Take the two half-assembled side panels (B) — the ones with the spacers (D and E) attached — and glue and pin them over the open side of each side panel (B) with 23-gauge pins. Clamp across the full width of each side (B) to pull the edges together flush and let the glue set before moving on.

Build the footrest

Cut 3/4 inches off each end of one of the footrest arch panels so that it is only 18-1/2 inches long. Assemble the footrest together with the two footrest arch panels (C), sandwiching six small spacers (D) along the front edge and three large spacers (E) along the back. Start in the center with both spacers (D and E), and work your way out, keeping them evenly spaced. Use wood glue and 23-gauge pin nails, keeping the same 1-1/2-in. spacing between spacer blocks as everywhere else.

Attach the footrest

Two large spacers (E) should be glued and nailed to the inside arches (B) of the sides, with their tops level, 5-1/4-in. from the bottom of the arch, and flush with the front edge. Install the assembled footrest so that the top 20-in. uncut arch (C) rests on top of the large spacers (E) and finishes at a height of 6 inches. Recess the footrest into the side slabs 3-3/4 inches from the front of the chair. Glue and tack with 18-gauge nails, then drive screws through the side slabs into the footrest, tucking them between the small spacer blocks (D) so they stay hidden.

Fill, sand and finish

The finish is what separates a good build from a great one. Fill all nail holes with wood filler, let it dry completely, then sand it smooth. Apply the first coat of tung oil to all exterior faces, allow it to dry, and lightly sand back the raised grain before applying the second coat. Two coats is the minimum — three won’t hurt.

FAQ

What are the four grades of plywood?

The corresponding letters A – D given to sheets of plywood reflect the quality of the sheet. The quality will also reflect in the price. Different ratings serve different applications: A is the highest quality, the smoothest and results in a paintable surface that won’t diminish the quality of your end product. B: allows for manufacturers to leave minor defects smaller than one inch. C: allows for tight knots and other defects to be visible and not sanded for a smooth finish. D: allows large knotholes and is intended for structural applications that won’t be seen.

Can I find plywood in different species?

Yes, plywood is manufactured in a wide variety of species with the outer veneer reflecting the desired species, i.e. walnut, cherry, birch, etc.  The price will vary greatly based on the species desired and the composition of the inner core of the sheet of goods.

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