Pretty much everyone has heard of a company called ACME. Whether it’s helping Wile E. Coyote’s attempts to capture an elusive Road Runner, or a much less sinister company in a small town, the name is familiar to many Americans. It appears on real U.S. businesses and has a history long before cartoons.
Learn what ACME means, why businesses liked (and continue to use) the name, and how cartoons popularized it for almost any company.
What Does ACME Mean?
Cartoon writers didn’t invent the word acme. The American Heritage Dictionary entry for “acme” traces it to the Greek word akmē, meaning the highest point of development or achievement.
That made it an appealing business name. Acme Tools’ company history says founder George Kuhlman chose it for his electric motor business because the word represented the highest level or peak.
ACME also isn’t an acronym for “A Company Making Everything.” That’s just one of those internet myths that caught on because it’s fun. In truth, Acme was already an English word derived from Greek long before the Road Runner cartoons.
Why ACME Worked Well in Phone Books
ACME also had one practical advantage: it appeared near the front of alphabetical business listings.
Before people searched online for a plumber, store, or repair shop, they often looked through printed directories. A business name starting with “AC” had a good chance of showing up near the top of its category.
That gave owners another reason to choose ACME. The name suggested quality and could also put the business in front of customers sooner.
How ACME Became a Cartoon Company
Warner Bros. eventually turned the familiar business name into Wile E. Coyote’s fictional supplier in the Road Runner cartoons.
The joke worked because “acme” meant something close to the highest or best, while many of the products Wile E. Coyote ordered failed to help him catch the Road Runner.
The cartoons gave ACME another identity as a company that could sell almost anything. The 2026 film Coyote vs. Acme continues that connection.
Why Companies Still Use the ACME Name
For some businesses, ACME simply became part of the company’s history. ACME Markets traces its name to the ACME Tea Company, while Acme Tools still uses the name chosen by its founder decades ago.
The alphabetical advantage matters far less today, but the name still carries its original meaning. Decades of cartoons have also made it instantly familiar to many Americans.
There are certainly many theories behind the history of this popular business name. And the next time you see it in use, you’ll have a better understanding of why it got that name.
Welcome to Domestic Disasters, where we take a look at some of your worst mess-ups and grossest finds. We take them to the experts to find out how big of a problem they are and how expensive they are to fix.
Last month, after filling the bathtub for his young daughter, Ethan discovered that the water wasn’t hot. When he opened the utility closet to investigate, he found a puddle covering most of the floor.
Being handy with household DIY tasks, he immediately knew what the problem was: the water heater tank had rusted out. The only fix was to install a new one.
What They Tried
Ethan’s first priority was to close the supply line valve to prevent the tank from refilling. Then, before heading to the home improvement store, he connected a hose to the spigot at the bottom of the tank to drain the remaining water.
He figured it would be empty by the time he got home, but when he returned, water was still draining out. That meant the supply line valve wasn’t closing, so the only solution was to shut off the main water to the house.
The next morning, Ethan successfully installed the new heater, then enlisted the help of his father-in-law to haul the old one up the stairs. Because it weighed more than 120 pounds, that ended up being the most challenging part of the ordeal, he says. It was also messy, with water leaking out along the way, despite their efforts to stem it with a plastic bag.
“If there’s a silver lining here, it’s that we were home when this happened,” he says.
Ethan is a confident DIYer, but did he actually approach the problem the right way? And could he have taken steps to prevent it?
A Pro Weighs In On What Went Wrong
Both gas and propane water heaters typically last 10 to 15 years before succumbing to corrosion. Since Ethan’s tank was 21 years old, the experts we talked to were not surprised that it had failed. Neither was Ethan. Also, the problem was likely compounded by geography. Ethan lives in Minnesota, and cold climates cause water heaters to work harder.
As for the faulty valve, it is usually caused by rotted gaskets or buildup in the line that prevents it from sealing. “It’s actually pretty common on water heaters that are older than ten years,” says plumber Travis Hargrave.
Did the Homeowners Get it Right?
Mostly. After realizing the supply line valve was faulty, he was correct in shutting of the main water to the house. “That’s your only move, and hesitating even 10 minutes can mean hundreds of gallons on the floor,” says plumber Brendan Tonks.
But Ethan also got lucky in that respect, says plumber Kolby Barnes. Ethan’s home is a 1940s bungalow, and many older homes like his use gate valves (rather than ball valves) for the main water shutoff. Similarly to supply line valves, they are vulnerable to buildup that prevents them from closing.
What Ethan didn’t get right, however, was neglecting to replace the aging water heater before it failed. It also would have been wise to install a smart device that can monitor for leaks and shut off the water in an emergency, says Barnes.
“The smart device isn’t necessarily a mistake on his part, since such devices are relatively new, but now that your readers know about them, it would be a mistake not to consider installing one to prevent both catastrophic leaks and slow, hidden ones,” says Barnes.
What Would a Pro Have Done Differently?
All of the pros we talked to pointed out one important step that Ethan missed — shutting off the gas or electricity to the water heater before touching anything, in order to prevent a safety hazard.
The Panic Meter
We rank Domestic Disasters on a four-point scale.
Do It Yourself: The easiest issues to fix. You can handle it all on your own.
Phone a Friend: This issue might require a little outside assistance.
Call a Pro: This situation warrants professional assistance.
SOS: Problems that are so dangerous, you’re directly at risk of injury or worse.
Whether to DIY a water heater replacement or call in a pro depends on your confidence level. “I don’t recommend a DIY fix because water heaters involve gas and electrical components that can be dangerous if not handled correctly,” says Tonks.
However, Ethan says it is a relatively easy task for DIYers, especially if they use shark bite connections. “As long as you have a helper who can help lug the old one out and the new one in, it should be a two or two-and-a-half-hour job,” he says. “And half of that is cleaning up.”
The Cost Differential
It is possible to extend the life of a water heater by replacing the internal anode rod, which helps prevent corrosion, every few years. As a DIY fix, this usually runs between $20 to $50, or $150 to $600 if you call a pro. Expect similar costs for replacing the valve.
If you have to replace the whole water heater, a DIY fix will run around $700, vs. $1,500 to $3,500 for a pro.
Keep in mind, too, that if you don’t catch and fix a leak promptly, the resulting flood damage could run into the thousands to tens of thousands of dollars for water damage and mold remediation.
How to Fix Water Heater Problems the Right Way
Before you enter the room, turn off the power or gas to the water heater, depending on its style. That will prevent electrocution and fire danger. In extreme cases, water heaters can also explode if the tank is empty but still heating up.
Then:
Turn off your home’s main water supply.
Drain the tank.
For valve issues, cut out the old one and install a new one. Leave it closed for now, and do not over-tighten, says Hargrave.
Replace the water heater.
If your heater is gas, test the gas line with soapy water to make sure it’s not leaking.
Turn the water back on to the home.
Confirm there are no leaks in the valve or other pipes.
Turn on the new valve at the water heater.
Fill the new tank with water. Use a pop-off emergency valve to release the air while filling, says Hargrave. “When water flows through, the tank is full and you can turn it back off.”
Run hot and cold faucets downstairs to remove air pockets and confirm the heater is completely full.
Check the water heater valve for leaks again.
Turn the gas or electricity back on. If you have a gas heater, pay special attention to the manufacturer’s safety instructions, which are usually posted on the heater.
How to Prevent Water Heater Problems
Open and close the supply line valve every six months to prevent buildup.
Replace the anode rod every three to five years.
Know where your main home water shutoff valve is located, and inspect the seals yearly.
If your main shutoff uses a gate valve, consider replacing it with a ball valve.
Replace your water heater every 10 to 15 years, especially if you have hard water or live in a cold climate.
Install a smart device that detects leaks and shuts off the water supply. Barnes recommends the Moen Flo unit. Adding one might also qualify you for a homeowner’s insurance discount.
If your home is older and doesn’t have a built-in water heater drain, set up a floor drain pan.
Ethan also warns about a mistake he nearly made: “A lot of the newer, more energy-efficient gas models also need an outlet, but I didn’t have that available in my space,” he says.
Finally, when it’s time to replace your water heater, if you’re considering switching from gas to electric, or to a tankless or heat-pump model, plan for that shift well before your old one fails, as you will likely have to address space, venting or electrical system upgrades.
What the Homeowner Learned
“It’s definitely a DIY job,” says Ethan. “You don’t need many tools, and it’s very approachable. But if there’s one takeaway, it’s to get a helper, not only for your back, but because you’re gonna put water on the floor, so you wanna move the old one out quickly.”
As for whether Ethan will preemptively replace this water heater in 10 or 15 years, he says, “probably not. I’m one of those people who doesn’t fix it until it’s broken. I just hope it doesn’t happen while I’m in Disney World or something like that.”
About the Experts
Kolby Barnes is a second-generation plumber, service technician and plumbing trainer manager at Service Force Plumbing in Maryland.
Travis Hargrave has more than 30 years of plumbing experience and runs Hargrave’s Plumbing in Louisiana.
Brendan Tonks is a licensed plumber and gasfitter, and director of Steve Bennett Plumbing in Australia.
Do you have a Domestic Disaster experience you’d like featured on Family Handyman? Email us your experience at fhmfranchises@tmbi.com.
Winter’s coming, and one of the most important winterization tasks you can do is to make sure your home has enough insulation. Even if it does, says Andre Kazimierski of HomeHero Roofing, you won’t stay warm if your house leaks air. “Sealing gaps goes a very long way with improving overall insulation,” he says, but sealing isn’t enough. If you want to stay warm, you have to reduce heat transfer through wood, metal and other materials from which your house is constructed, and that takes insulation.
Robust insulation doesn’t just keep your house warmer. It protects your water system from freezing and prevents your HVAC system from overworking and costing you money. It’s common for energy bills to go up in the winter — ours certainly do — but who needs the extra expense of an unreasonable spike, especially at a time when prices are rising across the board? You can prevent that by putting some effort into insulating all the parts of your house. Here’s how.
Attic and Roof Spaces
Attic and roof spaces should be a number-one priority, says Kazimierski. As your roof ages, it develops gaps that allow cold air into the attic, which can then leak into the home. He recommends hiring a roofer to do an inspection and seal the gaps as part of your winterization program, especially if the roof is old and weathered. He also recommends adding rigid foam or spray insulation to the underside of the roof deck.
Because most attics are vented, a certain amount of air circulation is normal, so it’s important to thermally separate it from the rest of the house by insulating the floor, either with fiberglass batt or blown-in insulation. If it’s already there, but you feel drafts through the ceiling, look for gaps and fill them in, or add an extra layer.
Exterior Walls
Because wood is a poor heat conductor, wood siding provides some insulation value, but not enough to keep you warm without insulation. Poorly insulated brick and concrete, says contractor Bob Cardwell of Cardwell HVAC, act like heat sinks, absorbing heat from inside and radiating it outdoors. What insulation to use? “Blown-in insulation is a good choice if the walls are already finished and you don’t want to open them up,” he says. “Spray foam is good for sealing gaps and air leaks in walls.”
Windows and Doors
“One of the best winterization tasks you can do before winter is to replace the rubber seals on windows and exterior doors,” says Cardwell. “Over time, those rubber seals shrink, get brittle, and that allows the heat to escape and the cold air to sneak inside.” You don’t have to do it every year, but you should definitely check in the fall to see if it’s necessary.
While you’re at it, check the weatherstripping around doors and windows, and replace it if necessary. Cardwell recommends installing a foam sweep under on the bottom of every exterior door as insurance against drafts.
Pipes and Plumbing
Winterization doesn’t mean insulating all your water pipes, but it’s important to protect the ones near exterior walls and running through unheated spaces, like the attic, basement or crawl space, to prevent them from freezing. Also, it’s a good idea to insulate hot water pipes to prevent heat loss and save energy.
“Use foam pipe sleeves if the pipes are exposed but the area stays somewhat protected, and use electric heat cables if the pipes are in places that regularly drop below 32-degrees,” advises Cardwell.
Basement and Crawl Space
Almost every home has air leaks around the rim joist, sill plate, and foundation penetrations for pipes and wires. Cardwell recommends filling gaps around the rim joist with closed-cell foam insulation, which provides better insulation than open-cell foam in the damp environment of a basement. Use expanding foam around pipes and wires and caulk for smaller foundation gaps and cracks.
“Pay special attention to the air leaks around the rim joist, because it runs around the entire perimeter of the house and is a common path for cold outdoor air to enter,” he advises.
Garage Walls and Ceilings
A garage generally doesn’t need to be fully insulated, but if it shares a wall with the house, that wall needs insulation. Cardwell recommends moisture-resistant insulation, like closed-cell spray foam or rigid foam board, because garages are typically damp in the winter.
If your garage has finished walls and you use it for purposes other than parking a car, treat it like the rest of your house. Seal gaps and insulate the walls and ceiling.
HVAC Ductwork
Leaks at joints and seams in ductwork become more likely as the ductwork ages, so it’s important to stay on top of them. “You can check if your ductwork is leaking by feeling for escaping air while the system is running,” says Cardwell. Leaks are most common from exposed ducts in the attic, crawl space and basement, and he recommends sealing those with mastic and UL-listed foil tape. “Ordinary duct tape dries out and doesn’t work well on HVAC ducts.”
Electrical Outlets and Other Small Air Leaks
A surprising amount of cold air passes through small gaps around electrical outlets and where pipes or wires enter home through walls. Cardwell recommends using foam outlet gaskets for outlets and caulk or spray foam for small gaps around pipes and wires.
FAQ
What should you insulate before winter?
All the experts I interviewed agreed with roofer Cody Purtle of Silver Ridge Roofing: “An obvious point that many overlook is that warm air rises. Due to inadequate attic insulation, a significant amount of heat can escape through the roof. That is precisely why I would start with the attic and the roof.”
Is fall a good time to add attic insulation?
Actually, the best time to insulate the attic is in the spring, according to Cardell. That prevents summer heat generated in the attic — which is the hottest part of the house — from reaching the living area. But, he says, if your main concern is keeping your house warm in the winter, early fall is a good time to insulate, because this is when you can often buy insulation materials cheaper and the attic is not too hot to work in.”
How can you tell where your home needs more insulation?
There are several indications:
You keep your thermostat at a normal setting, but your energy bills are higher than expected.
Some rooms are noticeably colder than others.
You feel drafts, which means your home has leaks that need patching and more insulation.
You notice condensation and black spots (mold) on your walls or ceilings, which almost always points to poor insulation.
It’s easiest to spot signs of poor insulation in summer, says Cardwell. “If your upstairs is much hotter than the downstairs, your attic is likely transferring heat into the living space.”
What areas of a home lose the most heat?
Rooms with exterior walls, those that face north and those next to unheated spaces typically need the most insulation, says Cardwell. North-facing rooms in particular get less sun exposure and are often exposed to cold winds. Moreover, rooms with a wall or floor that adjoins a garage, porch, basement or crawl space tend to lose heat to these spaces and need more winterization.
About the Experts
Andre Kazimierski is the Co-Owner and President of HomeHero Roofing, a fast-growing residential roofing company based in Downers Grove, IL.
Bob Cardwell is the owner of Cardwell HVAC and a seasoned heating, cooling, and plumbing expert. He has over a decade of hands-on experience serving South Jersey homeowners and businesses.
Cody Purtle is the owner of Silver Ridge Roofing, which is based in Houston, TX.
Crumbs, wrappers and sticky spills can quickly make a vehicle feel dirty. They also attract pests and create lingering odors.
Wipe Up Spills Quickly
If a no-food rule isn’t realistic for your family, clean up messes as soon as they happen. Fresh spills wipe up easily, but dried soda, coffee and sauces become sticky and much harder to remove.
Keep Cleaning Supplies Handy
Store a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick touch-ups. Wipe the dash, console and door handles once a week to prevent dust and grime from building up.
Manage Trash
Keep a small trash bag or bin in the vehicle and empty it regularly. A good reminder: Toss trash whenever you stop for gas. 10 Good Habits for a Cleaner Car How you treat your car between deep cleans can make all the difference in controlling mess, odors and everyday clutter
Vacuum Weekly
If you use your car daily, vacuum the seats, floor mats and carpeting at least once a week. Remove any floor mats before vacuuming— debris tends to collect around the edges of the mats and get ground into the fibrous floor carpeting.
Use All-Weather Mats
If you live in an area with dirt roads or frequent rain or snow, install all-weather floor mats. They trap sand, mud and water and can be easily hosed off.
Avoid Clutter
Stow pens, receipts and other small items in the glove box or designated compartments, and keep the passenger seat clear. Likewise, avoid turning your trunk into a storage closet—carry only the essentials so it stays functional.
Watch What Passengers
Bring In Before passengers climb in, check for muddy shoes, open containers or messy bags. A simple rule helps: If something comes in with a passenger, it leaves with them.
Don’t Smoke in the Car
Smoking leaves behind odors, ash and residue that are difficult to remove and can reduce a vehicle’s resale value. Professional detailers can help restore a fresh smell, but prevention is far easier.
Make Cleaning Part of Your Routine
A few minutes of maintenance each week prevents dirt buildup and makes deep cleanings faster. Wash the exterior every two to three weeks and give the interior a quick weekly clean to keep things looking their best.
Garages have a way of becoming the hardest-working— and most cluttered—spaces in a home. That was certainly true for Head of Editorial Kirsten Schrader, whose family’s garage had become the launching pad for activities from barbecues to bike rides but lacked the organization to keep up. “No one ever told me how much time you spend in your driveway once you have kids!” says Schrader, who lives in the Milwaukee area with her husband, Jim, and their 5-year-old son, James.
To make the space work better, Deputy Editor Ethan O’Donnell and the Family Handyman build team designed a multipurpose storage system tailored to the family’s routines, hobbies and growing collection of gear. The result is a more organized, functional space built for the way the Schraders actually live. Read on for a start-to-finish look at the makeover, plus smart storage ideas, planning tips and DIY touches you can use in your own garage.
Cut the Clutter
Five years after moving into their home, the Schraders needed better garage storage. Toys, outdoor equipment and entertaining supplies had piled up, making everyday activities harder than they needed to be.
If you have a garage, chances are there’s plenty of stuff inside it. A 2022 survey commissioned by Craftsman found that 36% of homeowners have a garage so cluttered they can’t park a car inside.
Fortunately, that wasn’t the Schraders’ problem. Their 21/2-car garage offered ample space, but with storage limited to a small bank of upper cabinets, outdoor toys, grilling supplies, sports equipment and lawn gear ended up stashed wherever they fit. The result? “Piles! So many piles!” says Schrader.
Before shopping for cabinets or shelving, decide what actually deserves a place in your garage. Donate items you no longer use, toss broken or expired supplies and consider whether seasonal or infrequently used gear is better stored elsewhere. Decluttering first reduces what needs to be organized and helps identify the items you reach for most often.
For the Schraders, that meant finding new homes for toys James had outgrown and taking stock of their most-used gear. “Jim grills multiple times a week year-round,” says Schrader, “so we wanted a dedicated spot for grilling tools and accessories—and a way to hide the ever-present bag of charcoal.”
Design for Your Space
Schrader and O’Donnell fine-tune the garage storage system’s design.
Once the clutter is cleared out, evaluate the garage itself. Existing features, from appliances and outlets to windows, floor slope and ceiling height can have a big impact on what’s possible. Utilities: “Plumbing and electrical are things we always think about,” says O’Donnell. Plan around existing outlets, switches and appliances, and be sure there aren’t plumbing stacks or hidden wiring where you’ll be mounting cabinets. Add outlets (or call an electrician) if you’ll need power for new features such as a TV, refrigerator or workbench.
Traffic flow: A good storage system should make your garage easier to use, not create new obstacles. Leave plenty of space to move comfortably around parked vehicles, open drawers and cabinets, and access entry doors. In the Schraders’ garage, O’Donnell suggested a large slatwall panel near the exterior door to keep frequently used items handy without disrupting foot traffic.
Space constraints: Consider garage door tracks, windows and ceiling height before finalizing your layout. Tall ceilings create good opportunities for overhead storage, but reserve those areas for seasonal or rarely used items.
Flooring: Most garage floors, including the Schraders’, slope toward the door to direct water outside. Account for the slope during installation by shimming cabinets as needed to keep countertops, shelves and work surfaces level.
Lighting: Most garages could benefit from additional lighting. Task lighting over a countertop or workbench provides focused illumination, while overhead LED shop lights are a good option for bright, general light during larger auto, DIY or woodworking projects (look for bulbs with a color temperature around 4,000 K to 5,000 K).
… and Your Lifestyle
Decluttering clears the way for a more organized, intentional space.
“This garage holds all our ‘lifestyle’ stuff—everything we need to hang out as a family or entertain,” says Schrader. “Toys, lawn chairs, bikes, golf clubs, a hose for the kiddie pool … and of course the beer fridge!”
That mix of gear, along with the family’s daily routines, shaped the final design. Built around the existing refrigerator, O’Donnell’s layout combines drawer stacks, wall cabinets, open shelving and slatwall to hold everything from small toys and art supplies to bulky outdoor gear. A countertop adds needed prep space for grilling and a work surface for small projects, like repairing James’ toy cars, while a slatwall-mounted TV makes the garage more inviting for the whole family.
Base cabinets are a popular storage option, but lower drawer stacks became one of Schrader’s favorite features: “Everything is laid out in a drawer versus stacked up in a cabinet,” she says. “Plus, you don’t have to crouch down to dig around in a deep cabinet.”
When planning your own garage, consider how you’ll use it beyond storage to help guide your decision-making. Workshops benefit from extra outlets, bright task lighting, dust collection, large work surfaces and organizers for tools and small parts. DIY mechanics may prefer rolling tool carts that can move around a vehicle or out into the driveway, while garages that double as gathering spaces can benefit from Bluetooth speakers and comfortable seating.
Don’t overlook temperature control, either. Insulating a garage door or adding a portable or permanent heater can make the space more comfortable year-round, helping it function as more than just a place to park the car.
Why RTA Cabinets?
Supervising Project Editor Carmen De La Paz assembles RTA drawer stacks before installation.
Although O’Donnell has years of experience building custom cabinetry, he chose ready-to-assemble (RTA) cabinets due to their appealing balance of cost, quality and convenience. Compared with custom cabinetry, RTA systems typically have much shorter lead times, with many arriving within days rather than weeks or months. Their flat-packed boxes are much easier to transport than assembled cabinets or sheet goods, especially if you don’t own a pickup truck.
RTA systems are also surprisingly customizable, with a wide range of sizes, finishes and configurations. Mixing in DIY elements, such as open shelving and countertops, can accommodate gear that won’t fit neatly inside standard cabinets and give the installation a more custom, cohesive look. Upgraded hardware is another easy finishing touch; using a simple jig speeds up installation and keeps the placement consistent.
Schrader and O’Donnell chose Hampton Bay’s shaker-style Leyton cabinetry in Fern Green, with a mix of drawer stacks and wall cabinets. Soft-close drawers and an easy-to-clean finish added everyday convenience in the busy space.
Assembly takes patience, but most RTA cabinets are DIY-friendly. “There’s a learning curve with the first one, but then knocking them out is easy,” says O’Donnell. “A novice DIYer with a drill could finish assembly in a few hours.”
Don’t Skip the Prep Work
Before installation day, the team cleared out the garage, patched drywall, cleaned and primed the walls, then applied a fresh coat of paint. Garage walls don’t need to be perfect, but taking time to prep creates a more professional result.
Light-colored paint helps brighten a dim garage, while a satin finish offers a balance of durability, scuff resistance and light reflection without emphasizing every drywall imperfection.
Don’t overlook the floor, either. If you’re planning to seal the concrete, now’s the time to do it, says O’Donnell—especially if you do automotive work or live where road salt gets tracked inside during winter. Electrical upgrades, such as adding outlets, are also easier while the space is empty.
Installation at a Glance
Shims compensate for the sloping floor, and soft-close drawers complete the assembly.
With the garage prepped and the cabinets assembled, keep a few things in mind to help installation go smoothly.
Depending on your cabinet system, it may be easier to install the wall cabinets while the floor is still clear. For this project, the wall cabinets would sit directly on the countertop, so the team began with the base drawer stacks next to the refrigerator, using the appliance as a fixed point for the layout.
Be prepared for sloping floors from the start. Locate and measure from the floor’s high point (standard base cabinet height is 34.5 in.) and use shims and a laser level to establish a level base before installing countertops.
If you’re adding custom features, plan them into the install. To give the lower cabinet run a cohesive look, O’Donnell built and paintmatched an open shelving unit to fit between the drawer stacks, topped the run with biscuit-joined butcherbock countertop slabs, and installed a scribed, painted toe-kick for a seamless transition along the floor.
With the cabinets installed, take advantage of open wall space with cut-to-fit slatwall or pegboard, or add hooks for go-to gear. Secure the panels to the studs or use appropriate anchors, and plan ahead for electrical needs, such as a TV or additional outlets, so you can route and conceal cords before everything is in place.
Finishing Touches
The best storage keeps gear tucked away yet easy to reach. Roomy drawers with smaller organizers keep toys contained, accessible and ready for play.
As you load your things back into place, keep everyday items within easy reach and expect to fine-tune the layout over time. Give less frequently used gear a home in upper cabinets or higher shelves, keep tools close to your workspace, and use adjustable storage for items that change with the seasons. Slatwall is especially versatile, with accessories for bikes, sports gear, yard tools, small parts and more.
For the Schraders, the result has been a garage that finally keeps up with daily life. James can find and put away his own toys, Jim’s grilling gear is neatly organized, and there’s room for the whole family to gather—without a single pile in sight.
Over the years, we’ve all gotten pretty used to paying for services with prices that fluctuate based on demand. Uber, DoorDash, hotel rooms, and airplane tickets all require vigilance if you want to snag the best price. And if you get caught needing one of these services in a time of high demand, you know you’re about to pay a steeper price than you probably should.
But how would you feel about dealing with the same kind of surge pricing at a grocery store? If you shop at certain major grocery stores across the United States, you already know the feeling. Many brick and mortar retailers, including Kroger, Target and Walmart, are all experimenting with what is called “surveillance pricing.” Basically, stores can use their shoppers’ personal info to set prices targeted to what they think shoppers are willing to pay.
Obviously, not everyone is okay with that idea. Surveillance pricing is facing pushback in many areas, most notably Seattle, Washington. This week, Seattle’s City Council voted to ban algorithm-based pricing, requiring that all grocery prices be “clearly posted” for all shoppers.
Here’s what we know about surveillance pricing, where the technology is headed and why public opinion is quickly shifting against it.
How Does Surveillance Pricing Work?
Every time we click something online, every time we make a digital purchase, every time we search for something on the web, we build out a little more of our individual online profile. Companies are tracking your information. Some of them are selling that info to other companies, who can then use it to either pull you in as a customer or keep you spending money on their service.
And if you think that’s dramatic, this is from a 2025 FTC report on surveillance pricing: “Staff found that consumer behaviors ranging from mouse movements on a webpage to the type of products that consumers leave unpurchased in an online shopping cart can be tracked and used by retailers to tailor consumer pricing.”
They’re not just tracking the actions you take online. They’re also watching the decisions you don’t make, the things you choose to go without. All of this builds a profile of you as a consumer, everything you want and crucially do not want. And one line in the FTC report is particularly eyebrow-raising:
“The staff perspective found that some 6(b) respondents can determine individualized and different pricing and discounts based on granular consumer data, like a cosmetics company targeting promotions to specific skin types and skin tones,” reads the report. “As one hypothetical outlined, a consumer who is profiled as a new parent may intentionally be shown higher-priced baby thermometers on the first page of their search results.”
That was based on evidence from a year ago. In that year, AI technologies had developed rapidly, becoming even more commonplace in everyday life. Soon, it may be too late to do anything about these pervasive and easily manipulated algorithms.
And that’s why “the Emerald City” is taking a stand. The Fair Pricing and Transparency Policy was approved after a 7-2 vote by the city council. Now, both online and physical stores in the city are prohibited from using the personal information of their shoppers to set prices.
Why Seattle Is Pushing Back
Algorithmic pricing has been a thing for years, so why is Seattle just now banning the practice in grocery stores? The city says it’s a matter of principle.
“Food is an essential good that’s getting more expensive all the time,” said Mayor Katie Wilson. “People have been clear: they don’t want their data fed into algorithms that decide how much they pay at the grocery store. Everyone deserves transparent pricing and equal treatment, not hidden systems that charge some shoppers more than others.”
This is not a spur-of-the-moment decision attempting to capitalize on a trendy headline, either. The ban has been in the works for months because it touches so many different parts of the community. Seattle collaborated with labor partners, community leaders and industry advocates to craft this band.
Seattle isn’t alone, either. Maryland, New Jersey and Connecticut have all passed laws prohibiting or limiting algorithmic pricing.
“Today’s vote demonstrates the immense power of working people standing together with the communities we serve,” said Sean Embly, Secretary Treasurer of UFCW, the largest local union in Washington State. “When we work together, we can protect our neighborhood stores from predatory practices that put profits over people.”
Local Support and Backlash Against Surveillance Pricing
But how do the people of Seattle feel about the ban? Based on reporting around the ban, it feels like public sentiment is positive about the decision.
“I don’t want them taking my data and telling me I’m going to have to pay more or less,” Cathy Allen, a Seattle resident, told local Seattle News KOMO.
Many Seattle residents were at the city council meeting and voiced their opinions.
“Surveillance technology shouldn’t be used to increase prices,” said Patrick McKeen, one such resident who spoke at the meeting.
Shoppers are not the only people voicing their support, either.
“Passing the strongest ban on AI-powered price-gouging on groceries feels historic. My coworkers and the customers we serve proudly stood together to stop the grocery industry from imposing this scheme here in Seattle,” said Seattle grocery store worker Kristen Wilder. “Today, that worked paid off for families who just want to know they’re paying a fair price and for workers who want to focus on customer service instead of defending some algorithm making decisions in a black box.”
There is some skepticism surrounding the enforcement of the ban, particularly when it comes to online shopping.
“LOL and how are they gonna enforce that on Amazon?” said Reddit user Haarzton on a thread discussing the ban. The tone is dismissive, but the core criticism, wondering how the city will enforce these new rules against tech giants like Amazon, is worth thinking about.
Still, this ban is at the very least giving us all a moment to pause and consider how much data we want driving our lives. Technology is a tool, and tools can be good or bad depending on how we choose to use them. Right now, Seattle is simply asking that we think twice before letting a formula decide how much we pay for our groceries.
Every dimension in this build comes from your monitor, so pick it and have it in hand before cutting any wood.
Choose a 27-in. to 32-in. flat-screen monitor. Skip curved or tube-style panels unless you’re building extra cabinet depth to accommodate them.
Match the resolution to what you’ll play: 1080p or higher for modern/emulated titles, lower resolution for classic arcade-era games (it can even look more period-accurate).
Measure the width and height of the monitor. Add 1/2-in. to the width measurement — this becomes the interior width of your cabinet, giving the monitor clearance to slide in without binding.
Flip the monitor face down on a towel or blanket, and measure where the mounting holes land in relation to the rest of the monitor. This spacing determines where you’ll drill matching holes into the monitor mount (M), which holds the monitor inside the cabinet.
Make the side panels
The side panels (A) are the most time-consuming part of this build to lay out and cut, since they combine straight angled cuts with a large curved arc:
Use the factory edge of the plywood sheet as your baseline, and draw out the side panels (A) according to the drawing above. You’ll need a protractor or speed square for the angles. Stop when you reach the arc.
At the arc, connect the end of the 5-1/4-in. vertical line at the top of the side (A) to the 9-1/2-in. line near the bottom of the arc.
From the center of this roughly 24-1/16-in. long line, draw a 2-1/2-in. line perpendicular to it, toward the 32-in. back edge of the side (A). Connect the two ends of the 24-1/16-in. line with the top point of the perpendicular line to form the arc.
Cut the sides out, starting with the arc. A jigsaw is the easiest method, but a router with a circle-cutting jig gives the best results. Set the jig for a 30-1/4-in radius and rout the arc in three or four passes, stopping before you reach the 9-1/2-in. line at the bottom of the arc. Elevate the workpiece above the workbench so you don’t route into it.
For the remaining straight cuts, clamp a track saw guide to the workpiece and cut.
Use your first cut side as a template for the second. Or, if you have scrap sheet goods on hand, make a template from the scrap first and transfer it onto the project plywood.
Cut the remaining components
With the side panels done, the rest of the cabinet pieces are cut at the table saw and miter saw:
Cut the logo panel (B), top panel (G), top door panel (H), door (Q), door panel nailing blocks (J), lower back panel (K), monitor mount (M), floorboard (L), and long and short inner braces (N and P) from 3/4-in. plywood, according to the cut list above.
Cut the monitor frame (C), button panel (D), front panel (E), and speaker panel (F) from 3/4-in MDF.
On the table saw, you’ll need to rip some bevels in a few of the pieces for everything to come together. All the bevels are ripped along the 28-1/2-in. long edges of the panels mentioned below. They are:
A 24° bevel along one edge of the button panel (D).
A 12° bevel along one edge, and a 3° bevel along the other of the front panel (E).
A 15-1/2° bevel along one edge of the speaker panel (F).
A 45° bevel along both edges of the top door panel (H).
A 24° bevel along one edge of the floorboard (L).
Cut the monitor opening
The opening in the monitor frame panel (C) should frame only the visible screen, not the monitor’s outer plastic bezel. Our 32-in. monitor measured 16-1/2-in. × 28-in. overall, with a true screen size of 15-3/4-in. × 27-15/16-in.; we cut a 15-5/8-in. × 26-3/8-in. opening centered on panel (C), losing an inch or less of screen per side, a trade you can recover entirely by adjusting the display’s overscan / screen-size setting.
Measure your monitor’s overall size and true screen size (excluding the bezel), then center an opening on panel (C) that’s slightly smaller than the screen — enough to frame the display while leaving structural material around the cutout.
Elevate the frame panel (C) and clamp it to the bench. Using the track saw, make a cut plunge-cutting just ahead of your starting corner line and stopping right at the far corner.
Reposition and clamp the track to repeat the cuts on the remaining sides.
Finish cutting the corners by inserting the jigsaw blade into the track saw kerf channels and cutting straight into each corner until the center waste piece drops free.
Drill holes for the buttons
Joystick and button kits usually come with a paper layout template. We went with a simple single-player layout — five holes total: two action buttons, two start/select buttons, and one for the joystick — since our game list didn’t need more than that, but if you’re planning on titles with heavier input demands, plan your button count accordingly before you drill.
Position the paper button template over button panel (D) where the joystick and buttons feel most comfortable for gaming.
Use a center punch, or the spur of a Forstner bit, to mark a center point through the template and onto button panel (D) at each hole location.
Clamp button panel (D) securely to the drill press. Use a 1-1/8-in. Forstner bit to drill through button panel (D), aligning the bit to each center mark. Place a sacrificial board underneath the panel to prevent tear-out on the back side.
Cut holes for ventilation fans
Even small electronics like the monitor and Raspberry Pi run better with airflow, so we installed two four-inch cooling fans. One on the door (Q) and one on the lower back panel (K).
The fans include a small, clear plastic gasket that works well as a template for laying out the holes. Use it to mark the hole location centered left-to-right and top-to-bottom on each panel.
Using a jigsaw or router with a straightedge, cut the square holes for the fans to sit in. These don’t need to be perfect — the fans have a bezel that sits over the edge of the hole, hiding any rough cuts.
Drill the power cord opening
To route the power strip’s cord out of the cabinet, we drilled a dedicated grommet hole in the bottom corner of the lower back panel (K).
In the bottom left corner of lower back panel (K), measure 2-1/2-in. from the left edge and 1-1/2-in. up from the bottom edge. Mark the center point.
At the drill press, chuck a 1-1/2-in. Forstner bit. Clamp the panel to the table, center the bit’s spur on your mark, and bore the hole for the grommet.
Cut the speaker opening
For audio, we used an inexpensive soundbar with a built-in subwoofer, mounted directly above the screen in speaker panel (F).
Trace the soundbar centered on the face of speaker panel (F). Square out the lines with a ruler and speed square.
Drill 3/8-in. holes through each corner of the square, then use a jigsaw to cut from hole to hole to rough out the opening.
Use a router with a straight bit and a guide rail to clean up the four sides of the opening.
On the backside of the speaker panel (F), rout a 1/4-in. wide × 1/2-in. deep rabbet all the way around the opening by stepping back your track saw track/rail adapter setup. Clean up the corners with a chisel.
Make the soundbar grille from gutter guard mesh, cut to the soundbar’s dimensions plus 1/2-in. larger in each direction. Bend and shape the mesh to fit snugly into the opening against the rabbet.
Apply Edge Banding
Apply iron-on edgebanding to conceal the plywood edge on side panels (A) and the top and bottom edges of logo panel (B).
Secure the panels with scrap 2x4s and clamps so the edge to be banded faces up.
Turn on the iron and set it aside to heat up. I prefer a hotter iron, which means moving faster to avoid burning the edgebanding, but also means the adhesive on the back of the edgebanding sets quicker.
Cut a length of edgebanding from the roll an inch or two longer than the edge you’re covering.
Center the edgebanding on the edge and iron it on, keeping the iron moving to avoid burning it. Don’t worry about aligning the ends yet. Trim those later. You’ll see the adhesive melt along the edges where the banding overlaps the plywood. Iron the entire length, then let it cool for a few minutes.
Use an edgebanding trimmer to trim the banding flush with the plywood veneer. Flush up the ends with a sharp chisel and a sanding block.
Install and trim edgebanding one visible edge at a time, rotating around the panel. Leave the bottom of side panels (A) and the short sides of logo panel (B) bare as they won’t be visible after assembly.
Paint and stain
This project is much easier to paint and stain with the pieces apart than with them assembled.
Use a palm sander to lightly sand all the plywood with 150-grit. Sanding oak plywood any smoother than this before staining will actually polish the pores shut, preventing the stain from absorbing evenly.
Sand any kerf marks on the edges of the MDF components smooth as well.
Apply stain to all visible sides and edges of the plywood components. Let dry.
Apply two coats of paint to all visible sides and edges of the MDF components, giving ample drying time between coats.
After the paint is dry, tack the speaker grill in place with a staple or two into the exposed MDF edge at the rabbet, just enough to keep it from rattling loose when moving the cabinet.
Burn the logo
To make the logo for the arcade cabinet, we decided to burn it into the plywood using a pryography pen.
Use a 11-in. X 17-in. legal size printer to print out the design/letters in the size that fits well on your logo panel (B). You may have to print the image over two sheets of paper and seam them together.
Use transfer paper and a metal or wood stylus to transfer the outline of your design onto the logo panel. Gently lift the image to ensure the carbon is transferring strongly enough to be visible as you work.
Choose a pyrography tip with a thin point to trace over the transfer paper outlines and burn in your letter.
Change to the wider rounded or chisel tip of the pyrography pen. Burn the space between the outlines to fill in the design.
Once all have been burned in lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper
Touch up any areas you would like to darken
Wipe the whole pyrography with alcohol swabs. This will remove and excess char and make the design look crisp. Alcohol also cleans up the wood without bloating the wood fibers.
Seal with oil-based poly and let dry.
Assemble the cabinet
With all the pieces cut, edgebanded, and finished, it’s time to glue the cabinet together. Dry-fit everything with clamps first — this is a unique enough shape that a test run is worth it — then assemble with wood glue and 1-1/2-in. 18-gauge brad nails.
Glue and nail the lower back panel (K), floorboard (L), and top panel (G) between the two side panels (A), flush with the outer edges of the sides as shown in the drawing.
Install the logo panel (B), front panel (E), and button panel (D) between the sides, recessed 5/16-in. from the front edge of the side panels (A), and secure them with glue and nails.
Glue and brad-nail the nailing blocks (J) to the sides (A). The top door panel (H) is left off for now to allow access for wiring and electronics mounting. Once that’s complete, pin it on with 23-gauge pin nails.
Position the monitor frame (C) and speaker panel (F) so they align with the panels already installed, then glue and nail.
Let the glue fully cure before moving on to the next step.
Install the door
With the cabinet assembled, it’s time to hang the door (Q), which provides ongoing access to the interior.
Flat-mount a piano hinge along the bottom edge of the door (Q). You may need to cut the hinge around the fan, depending on the size of your hinge leaves. Use a punch to mark the screw placement, then secure the hinge to the door (Q) and the lower back panel (K) using 1/2-in. screws
Install the strike plate for the magnetic door catch on the inside of the door (Q), about two inches from the top and flush to the side edge, and screw it into place. Snap the magnet onto the strike plate, close the door to mark the magnet’s landing spot on the side panel (A), then screw the magnet into place at that mark.
Install the knob at the top of the door (Q). Drill a 3/16-in. hole through the door, 2-in. down from the top edge and centered side-to-side, then insert the bolt through the hole and screw on the knob.
Finishing touches
A little touch-up work and a few coats of polyurethane will get the cabinet ready for the long haul. This is how we did it.
Fill all the nail holes with stainable wood filler, wipe away any excess, and touch up those areas with paint or stain.
Use painter’s tape and plastic sheeting to mask off all the painted MDF components.
With a clean brush, apply a thin coat of polyurethane to the exposed sides of the plywood components and edge banding.
Let dry for a few hours, then lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth any raised grain. Wipe clean with a tack cloth and apply a second coat.
Mount the monitor
Getting the monitor securely and safely seated takes a simple custom-built mounting system with a little patience for alignment.
Stick foam insulation tape around the inside edge of the monitor bezel to cushion it and prevent scratching.
Transfer your monitor’s VESA mounting pattern (typically 100mm x 100mm) onto the monitor mount (M), mark the four hole locations, and drill them.
Attach the cross bracket (M) to the back of the monitor using machine screws sized for your monitor’s VESA inserts. You’ll need to buy these separately, as they aren’t included with the monitor — make sure they aren’t too long.
Hold the monitor with the cross bracket (M) attached against the monitor frame (C) at the desired position (use an assistant if needed). Mark on the sides (A) where the back edge and bottom of the cross bracket (M) sit when the monitor is in its ideal position.
Use wood glue and brad nails to attach the long braces (N) and short braces (P) to the sides (A), forming L-shaped cleats for the cross bracket (M) to sit in. Attach the long brace (N) along the back-edge mark, and the short brace (P) along the bottom mark, on each side (A).
To mount the monitor, slowly lower the cross bracket (M) onto the L-shaped cleats, being careful not to peel the foam insulation. Wiggle it in if needed.
Electronics installation
With the top door panel left off for access, this is where the Raspberry Pi, controller board, and audio/power components all go in before the cabinet gets buttoned up.
Center the pre-programmed Raspberry Pi and the controller USB encoder board inside the cabinet to minimize wire strain on the joystick and buttons.
Connect the power supply, microHDMI, USB gaming stick, encoder board, and an aux cable to the soundbar to the Pi.
Wire the buttons and joystick directly to the encoder board per the instruction manual.
Route and secure both fans to their designated locations: the fan on the lower back panel (K) should draw air into the cabinet, and the fan on the door (Q) should blow air out.
Place the power strip on the left side towards the back, positioning the power switch near the grommet hole for easy reach. Feed the power cord through the hole, then secure the plastic grommet with CA glue.
Set the soundbar in its basin on the inside of the speaker panel.
Connect the monitor, fans, Pi, and soundbar to the power strip. Plug in the main power strip and flip the switch to on. Verify power is reaching all components, then turn off the system.
Cable Management
With the electronics wired and powered, take a pass through the cabinet to route and secure all the cabling before closing everything up.
Start at the joystick and buttons. Group and secure the button wiring with velcro cable ties as one section, then repeat for the joystick wiring.
Apply adhesive tie mounts near the speaker to zip-tie the speaker cables. Place additional tie mounts down the side panel for securing monitor and speaker lines.
Separate the main power cords from the monitor cables coming down. Route the power connections to the Raspberry Pi, fans, monitor, and speaker. Secure them with tie mounts and zip ties along a path that makes sense for your layout.
Route the fan cable on the door (Q) with enough slack to prevent strain when the door opens and closes. Anchor it down with tie mounts and zip ties.
Nail on the top door panel (H) to the nailing blocks (J) using 23-gauge pin nails, being sure to leave enough room between it and the top of the door (Q) for the door to close without hitting it.
Test and play!
With everything wired and wrapped up, it’s time to power on the cabinet and confirm everything actually works.
Flip the switch on the power strip inside the cabinet. Use the remote to turn on the soundbar.
Boot up the Raspberry Pi and check the monitor to see if it shows.
Move the joystick and hit a button to test if it works. To make troubleshooting easier, connect an actual console controller to the Raspberry Pi, if you have one, so you can navigate the settings and system without relying on the arcade controls yet.
With working controls, launch a game and verify that each button and joystick works as configured.
FAQ
Is it illegal to emulate arcade games?
Using an emulator to play arcade games is legal. Downloading game files (ROMs), disc images (ISOs), or console startup files (BIOS) that you don’t own the rights to is not; that’s copyright infringement. If you own the original hardware or games, making and playing your own backup copies is fine.
What’s better, Raspberry Pi or PC for Arcade Cabinet?
PC is going to be the superior choice for arcade cabinets – the processing power, graphics, and the use of an actual hard drive rather than an SD card make gaming easier with old and newer games. Raspberry Pi has its uses and is great for smaller cabinets that can’t hold a PC, but not great for newer games.
Is a 32-in. Monitor too big for a cabinet?
No. Personally, I like the bigger picture, and the game experience is much more enjoyable. The overall size of the monitor for your cabinet is based on your preference and the size of the cabinet you want to build. There are many out there with 40-in. + monitors.
