What Is “House Blindness”? I Think I Have It

Hear no mess. See no mess. Speak no mess.

If only that actually made the mess go away. Sometimes in the life of a DIYer, you get a little too comfortable with living in a half-finished house.

For me, I often see straight through the small mountain of tools and materials stacked in the corner of the room where we’re currently (…have been for a while…) renovating. And the spackle on the wall that needs to be sanded down and painted? Invisible to my eyes.

The missing trim in the kitchen, sticky door to the basement, loose handle on the trash can are all obvious to anyone stepping foot in my home, but not so much to me and my family.

Yep… we’ve gone house blind.

What Is House Blindness?

House blindness is simply when you get so used to the mess, clutter or unfinished jobs around your home that you stop noticing them. Think of it like going nose blind, but with imperfections in your home. It can also be referred to as “clutter blindness,” “mess blind,” “clutter creep”, or something similar.

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Once I heard the term, it immediately made sense. I’m not purposely ignoring the pile of tools in the corner or that missing piece of trim. I’ve just walked past them so many times that they’ve basically become part of the room.

How to Tell If You’ve Gone House Blind (and Solutions)

The concept of house blindness isn’t overly complex. However, it might be confronting or hard to realize that it’s something you’re doing too.

For me, the biggest giveaway is when I suddenly notice something that’s been sitting there for weeks or months. If guests are coming over, I take a photo of the room or I simply look at it from a different angle. All of a sudden, that pile I’ve walked past 100 times is impossible to miss. If that sounds familiar, you might be doing it too.

Now, for solutions. Here are some things I’ve discovered that help.

Because our house is usually a revolving door of major renovations, there’s almost always at least one major project going on. To help with construction mess spilling into other rooms, I keep a designated tool and materials box that everything goes into once the work is done for the day.

I’ve also prioritized 95% days, which are days I set aside specifically to finish all those little jobs I’ve been putting off instead of starting something new. Think missing trim, nail holes, outlet covers and all the other annoying final steps that keep a project at 95% instead of actually done.

Another one that might seem silly but does work is to look at your home from angles you don’t normally see from. If you’re tall, try kneeling or sitting on the ground and looking around. Or if you’re short, get a step ladder for a new perspective.

One trick I recently learned but haven’t tried is to take photos around your home and look at them on your phone later. Viewing them through this new lens helps strip away the usual filters your brain uses to block that clutter noise and can help you see more clearly.

Try one, or multiple, of these approaches and see what works best. Thankfully, clutter is usually a pretty easy issue to fix and if it’s something you’ve gone house blind to, it doesn’t take much to start noticing it again.

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Fix Your Fridge: All Your Questions About Refrigerators Answered

Is it a bad sign when the water dispensed from a refrigerator isn’t cold?

Not usually. In older refrigerators, water is often stored in a reservoir near the crisper drawers. But in many modern models, water flows through tubing that runs up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter, then down to coiled tubing that serves as a storage tank, and back up to the door dispenser. Along the way, it’s exposed to warmer parts of the refrigerator. Because the water is constantly flowing through the tubes instead of chilling in a reservoir, it may not be as cold as you’d like. Here are a few ways to enjoy colder water:

• Keep a small glass handy for the first 4 oz. or so of water, then fill your drinking glass.
• Make sure your refrigerator is full (but not overcrowded). The fewer items in your fridge, the harder your fridge must work to maintain a cool temperature (usually 34 to 38 degrees on newer models).
• Wait at least 15 minutes between fill-ups. If you’ve just filled a big glass or pitcher, give the water in the coiled tubing time to cool off before dispensing more.

What’s the process for cleaning an ice maker?

If the ice from your refrigerator has an unpleasant smell or taste, it’s probably time to clean the ice maker. Do this once or twice a year, depending on how often you use it:

• Turn off the ice maker. Raise the metal arm to the up (“off”) position. If your model doesn’t have a shutoff arm, follow the directions in the owner’s manual.
• Remove the existing ice. Take out the ice bin and discard all the ice.
• Clean the ice bin. Wash the bin with a sponge and warm, soapy water. Dry with a clean towel. A 50-50 vinegar-water solution can be used in place of dish soap.
• Clean the interior of the ice maker. Wipe down all accessible parts, including the dispenser chute (if applicable), with a cloth saturated with warm, soapy water. Dry everything thoroughly with a clean towel.
• Reinstall the ice bin. Return the bin to its original position.
• Replace the water filter. Install a new filter if your refrigerator uses one (check the owner’s manual if you need help finding it). Take the old filter with you to the store—or take a photo of it—to make sure you buy the correct replacement.
• Run the ice maker. Lower the shutoff arm (or follow your model’s instructions), let the ice maker run and discard the first couple of batches to flush out the old water still in the lines.

What’s the ideal temperature for a freezer?

We all learned in school that water freezes at 32 degrees. While that temperature is fine for making ice cubes, it’s too warm for safely storing frozen food because mold and bacteria can continue to grow on food surfaces. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the ideal freezer temperature is zero degrees. This is also the recommended factory setting for most major refrigerator brands, helping keep food safely frozen while conserving energy and extending the life of the appliance.

Why would a fridge run but not get cold?

Dirty condenser coils are a common culprit. When they’re clogged with dust, the refrigerator can overheat, causing the compressor’s overload protector to shut it down. The refrigerator may restart automatically once the compressor cools, but by then your food may already be warming up. Vacuum the coils regularly to clear debris and prevent overheating.

Also check the condenser fan. If it’s blocked by debris or not spinning freely, the fridge can’t release heat efficiently. Remove any obstructions and clean the fan thoroughly.

Finally, check the interior light. A stuck or misaligned door switch can leave the light on even when the door is closed, raising the temperature inside the refrigerator. To test it, close the door and use a butter knife to pull the door gasket slightly away from the frame. If light shines out, the switch may be faulty or out of alignment.

How do you clean stainless-steel surfaces?

Dish soap is a trusty staple. Put a drop on a microfiber cloth with warm water and wipe with the grain of the metal. Wipe again with a clean damp cloth, then towel-dry to prevent water spots and soap residue.

For tough grease or fingerprints, use a stainless steel cleaner. These products are formulated to cut residue without leaving streaks, making them a good step up when soap and water aren’t enough.

For a quick polish after cleaning, a little olive oil can help restore shine. Apply it with a microfiber cloth and buff with the grain until smudges disappear. Follow with a dry microfiber cloth to remove excess oil and prevent a greasy finish; this leaves behind a thin protective layer that resists fingerprints.

Why is it important to clean refrigerator coils?

Dust and debris can easily accumulate on refrigerator coils, forcing the appliance to work harder and use more energy. Fortunately, cleaning the coils is simple. First, unplug the refrigerator and access the coils (they’re usually behind the front kickplate or on the back of the unit). Use a shop vacuum to remove dust and debris. For hard-to-reach places, use an air compressor with a blower nozzle to loosen the dust, then vacuum it up. Remove any stubborn dirt with a soft-bristled brush or duster, then vacuum again. Finally, clean the floor around your work area, reattach any panels and plug the fridge back in.

How do you fix an ice maker that’s not making ice?

First, listen. Do you hear anything? There should be a rumbling from the auger inside the ice bin. If there’s a rumble and no ice, ice is likely stuck in the door chute and needs to be cleared out. If you hear a hum but no rumble, the auger is probably stuck and can’t spin; emptying the bin and reloading the ice may fix it. If you don’t hear any sound at all, the dispenser switch may be broken and will likely need to be replaced by a pro. If you hear the auger turning and nothing’s clogging the chute, move on to these steps:

• Check the water supply. Behind your refrigerator, you should find a valve for the water line. Turn the valve counterclockwise as far as it will go to open the supply. If there’s still no water, the line may be frozen and needs to be thawed.
• Check the temperature. The freezer temperature should be set to zero degrees. If it’s set to minus 3 degrees or colder, the lines to the water dispenser and ice maker can freeze. To thaw them, move the freezer contents to the refrigerator (along with any available ice) and unplug your refrigerator for eight hours with the freezer door open. This will thaw ice buildup while keeping the refrigerator section cold. Then plug it back in, return the frozen food to the freezer and reset the temperature to zero degrees.
• Check for a clogged ice bin. Pull out the bin and find the round metal auger that runs the length of the bin. It needs to turn to move ice toward the chute, so make sure no ice is blocking it from spinning.
• Check the auger assembly. Reach to the back of the compartment where the ice bin sits. Below the ice maker, you’ll find a two-pronged metal fork that spins the auger. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise. If it won’t turn or just spins freely, call a pro to fix the auger motor and gear box.

Is it possible to give a dirty white fridge a facelift?

A great place to start is with the handles, which tend to yellow and collect grime over time. Instead of replacing them, clean and repaint for a quick, budget-friendly refresh. You’ll need spray paint formulated for plastic, plus a degreaser and a scrubbing pad.

Pry off the caps that cover the side screws, then open the door and remove the remaining screws. Take off the handles and wash them with degreaser and hot water, scrubbing any textured areas to remove buildup. Wipe them with a dry cloth and let them air-dry completely. Mask off any emblems or chrome trim, then spray-paint, coating the sides first, followed by the flat surfaces. Once the paint has dried, reinstall the handles.

Why do some people keep baking soda in the refrigerator?

Baking soda is a highly effective odor neutralizer. As bacteria break down food, they release smelly molecules that can be either acidic or alkaline (basic). Baking soda, aka sodium bicarbonate, reacts with these compounds to help reduce odors. Stash an open box in the refrigerator and replace it about every three months. Tip: Date the box so you know when to replace it.

Simple Fixes for a Refrigerator that Isn’t Cooling

If your refrigerator isn’t cooling properly, start with these quick checks. You may be able to solve the problem yourself before calling a pro.

• Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and getting power. The interior light should turn on when you open the door.
• Check the thermostat to make sure it hasn’t been adjusted by mistake.
• Move food or containers away from the vents at the back of the freezer and refrigerator compartments. Blocked airflow can prevent proper cooling.
• Vacuum the condenser coils under or behind the fridge. Dust buildup prevents the coils from releasing heat efficiently, forcing the compressor to work harder, reducing cooling performance and shortening the appliance’s lifespan.
• Inspect the condenser fan to make sure nothing is obstructing it and it spins freely.

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When Should You Actually Use Your Hazard Lights? You May Be Using Them Wrong

Drivers are notorious for forgetting common traffic rules, and that can be especially true during extreme weather. A perfect example is knowing when to use hazard lights while driving.

Hazard lights are one of the simplest controls in a car, but drivers don’t always agree on when they should be used. Seeing hazard lights while driving is especially common during heavy rain, fog, sudden traffic backups, and other situations where drivers want to make their vehicles more noticeable. But should they be used during extreme weather?

Learn when hazard lights make sense, when drivers should leave them off, and what to do when bad weather makes it difficult to see.

Hazard Light Laws Vary by State

There isn’t one nationwide rule for using hazard lights while a vehicle is moving. Some states allow them in certain situations, while others limit or prohibit their use.

AAA notes that hazard-light laws vary by state, so drivers shouldn’t assume the same rules apply everywhere. Anyone unsure about using flashers while driving should check the current driver handbook or motor vehicle agency guidance for the state where they’re traveling.

When Drivers Should Use Hazard Lights

Hazard lights, also called emergency flashers or four-way flashers, make a vehicle’s turn signals flash at the same time. Their main purpose is to warn others about a stopped or disabled vehicle.

After a breakdown, flat tire, or similar problem, the driver should move as far from traffic as safely possible and turn on the flashers. The same applies after a crash if the vehicle has to remain near traffic. If it can move safely, getting out of an active travel lane should come first.

Extremely poor visibility is one situation where hazard lights may also help while a driver gets off the road.

“In extremely dense fog where visibility is near zero, the best course of action is to first turn on your hazard lights, then simply pull into a safe location such as a parking lot of a local business and stop,” according to the National Weather Service’s resources for driving in fog.

When Drivers Shouldn’t Use Hazard Lights While Driving

Hazard lights shouldn’t serve as a substitute for headlights during bad weather. AAA specifically advises against switching them on simply because heavy rain makes it harder to see.

“Do not drive with your hazard lights on,” according to AAA. “Hazard lights are meant to signify that your vehicle is disabled. Using them while driving could confuse other motorists.”

The flashing lights can also make a moving vehicle harder for other drivers to read. During heavy rain, drivers should instead turn on their headlights, slow down, and leave more space between vehicles.

“Hazard lights can actually reduce visibility making other drivers think you are stopped or stalled,” according to AccuWeather. “They make it difficult to see if motorists ahead are tapping on the brakes and they don’t allow you to use your turn signals.”

What Drivers Should Do Before Heading Out in Bad Weather

Avoiding dangerous road conditions can be safer than trying to manage them after a trip has already started.

“Check your local weather and traffic reports before heading out,” according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s winter driving tips. “If your roads are not in good shape, consider postponing non-essential travel until the roads are cleared. If you do have to go out, make sure you are prepared in case you become delayed while traveling.”

Sources

• AAA, “AAA’s Advice for Driving in Wet Weather”
• AAA, “What to Do if Your Car Breaks Down”
• AAA, “How to Effectively Communicate on the Road”
• National Weather Service, “Driving in Fog”
• National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, “Winter Weather Driving Tips”
• AccuWeather, “Why it isn’t safe to flash hazard lights while driving in the rain”

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I Tried To Renovate Everything at Once. Here’s What Went Wrong…

Home improvement isn’t the classroom: there’s no extra credit for taking on more work, and you’re not going to make the honor roll for having the most unfinished projects.

It can be easy to fall into the familiar cycle of jumping from one major renovation to another and finding your to-do list growing day after day without actually whittling it down. I know because I’ve done it. One project turns into two, then something else suddenly feels more important, and before long, several rooms are half-finished at once.

At one point during my current fixer-upper I had so many projects going that the house felt less like a home and more like a construction site.

Never. Again.

Why You Should Space Out Projects and Signs You’re Overcommitted

Before you hit a metaphorical wall (continue as planned if you’re doing demo), take a step back and see if this is starting to sound familiar:

You’ve got several rooms torn apart, tools and materials everywhere, and you keep starting new jobs before finishing old ones. Or maybe working on the house just isn’t fun anymore and every weekend feels like another shift.

It’s much easier to fix a bad plan early than it is after you’re already in way over your head. Spacing projects out gives you time to finish, clean up and actually enjoy the work you just did before starting all over again.

I consider myself a bit of an expert in this area because, well, I’ve been guilty of overcommitting to projects more times than I can count. While I still find myself occasionally doing too much at once, I’m in a better position to recognize those warning signs/red flags earlier.

Tips to Finish Old Projects Before Starting Another One

Recently, I wrote a column for Family Handyman about how I’m adding a 95% day to my DIY routine. Basically, I set aside a day every few months to finish all those little things I’ve been putting off. Missing trim, nail holes, outlet covers and other jobs that keep a “finished” project from actually being finished all go on the list.

I’m also getting better at utilizing my project planner to see projects through and stay on schedule. Writing everything down makes it pretty obvious when I’m trying to cram too much into one week and helps me decide what actually needs to get done first.

Learning how to triage projects will also go a long way. What do I mean by that? Instead of doing a little bit of each project every day, focus on finishing one and then move on to the next one. You can either pick the one that takes the least amount of time to complete so you can check things off your to-do list quicker, or the project that has a more time-sensitive deadline.

For people who think in financial terms, this is like the snowball vs. avalanche debt payment strategy. Or for a sports metaphor, decide whether you need the easy points or should focus on the bigger play first. I’m out of metaphors, but I think you get the general idea.

Also, remember there’s no shame in hiring a professional to finish a job you’ve started. Life gets busy and contractors are often happy to take an easy paycheck on a job that’s already been started. They might even appreciate that some of the early legwork is already done for them. If bringing in someone to do one or a few jobs allows you to finish other things, it might be worth it.

An important DIY skill is learning when to walk away. If you’re currently in this situation, or find yourself overcommitted down the road and are thinking back to this column, just remember it’s totally normal and you’re certainly not alone. If anything, it means you’re working on making your home a little better, and that’s definitely something to celebrate.

But not for too long… there are still projects to finish, after all.

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When Are You Too Old To Move Furniture? Experts Weigh In

While it’s nice to be able to tackle projects around the house yourself, it’s also important to know your limits, especially as you get older. Jobs you could easily handle in the past, like climbing a ladder to change a lightbulb, can become riskier with age.

This is especially true when it comes to moving furniture. Lifting and maneuvering heavy pieces can quickly lead to injuries, accidents or worse. But it can be tough to know when you’re too old to move furniture, as it varies from person to person.

Ahead, learn about the risks of moving furniture as you age, how to do it safely if you choose to and when it’s time to call in the pros, with advice from strength coach Zac Armstrong and physical therapist Joshua Holskey. 

What Are the Risks of Moving Heavy Furniture as You Get Older?

Moving heavy furniture becomes more hazardous as you age, posing risks like back injuries, joint sprains, pulled muscles, fractures and heart attacks. 

Strains, sprains and back injuries

According to Armstrong, moving furniture poses the greatest risk of injury to the lower back and shoulders. Improper lifting techniques or attempting to move furniture that is too heavy to control can lead to slipped disks, pinched nerves, pulled muscles or injuries caused by twisting. “Most injuries happen mid-carry, when you twist to avoid dropping something and hurt your back or rotator cuff,” he says.

Falls and fractures

Lower bone density, loss of muscle mass and poor balance are an unfortunate and all too common part of aging that make moving furniture especially hazardous. A trip and fall can easily lead to broken bones under these circumstances and moving heavy furniture only amplifies these risks. 

Cardiovascular risks

Moving furniture is strenuous work that increases your heart rate and blood pressure. For older adults with cardiovascular disease, this can lead to serious medical events, including a heart attack. Know the signs of a heart attack, and work slowly to avoid overexertion. When in doubt, call a professional mover. 

How to Move Heavy Furniture Safely as You Age

Before attempting to move heavy furniture, follow these tips to do it safely. 

• Warm up: Treat furniture moving like a workout and warm up first to reduce injury. Do some light stretching and movement to warm up muscles. 
• Get a helper: “First and foremost, make sure you have help,” Holskey says. “People usually get hurt by trying to lift more than what their body is currently trained to handle.” 
• Utilize moving equipment: Rely on furniture slides, lifting straps, furniture dollies, hand trucks and work gloves for an easier move.   
• Make a plan: “Move trip hazards and unexpected obstacles out of the way and discuss with your lifting partner how you plan to manage corners, stairs and any changes in height you may have to make,” Holskey says.
• Lift in stages: Instead of picking an object up in one move, try doing it in stages from the floor to a chair, then up to full carrying height, Armstrong says.  
• Avoid twisting: Twisting while carrying a heavy load can lead to serious back injury. Instead, pivot your entire body as a single unit when turning. 
• Push instead of pull: Pushing furniture relies on leg strength and is much safer than using back muscles.
• Lift with your legs: “I’m sure this is something people commonly hear, but also very true,” Holskey says. “Bending some at your ankles, knees, hips and waist is important to keep the force closer to your spine and center of gravity.” 

How Do You Know When You’re Too Old to Move Furniture?

While there is no specific age, you’re too old to move furniture when the risk of injury is greater than the likelihood of success. “Is there an age to stop? No,” Armstrong says. “But there is a strength-and-control test: If you cannot pick the item up smoothly and carry it under full control, it is too heavy for you today — at 45 or at 75.” 

If you feel uncertain about your ability to move furniture, err on the side of caution and ask for help or call in a professional. Many moving companies offer in-home furniture moving services. 

About the Experts

• Zac Armstrong is a retired U.S. Marines naval commander, strength coach and founder of Executive Health Edge in Coronado, California.
• Joshua Holskey is a physical therapist and doctor of physical therapy at ATI Physical Therapy.  

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Why Wind Is More Dangerous When the Leaves Are Still on Trees

Trees are vulnerable to powerful storms, even a single gust of wind. While tree damage can occur any time of the year, wind damage is more dangerous in certain seasons.

Fall can be a key season for wind-related tree damage because deciduous trees may still hold their leaves when storms bring strong winds and heavy rain. That’s why anyone who has dealt with mature trees knows how much more movement a leafy canopy creates during a storm.

The reasons leafy trees face more stress during windy weather, and the role wet soil plays, help explain why some fall storms cause serious tree damage.

Why Leaves Make Trees More Vulnerable to Wind

Tree professionals sometimes describe a dense canopy as having a windsail effect. Leaves and branches give the wind more surface to push against, placing extra pressure on the tree.

A video from arborist education account @fruitstitute on Instagram compared a thick canopy to a sail catching wind. Research published in the International Society of Arboriculture’s journal on red maples found that the makeup of a tree’s crown affects how much wind load it experiences.

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Trees can reduce some of that pressure naturally. Leaves turn and cluster in the wind, while branches bend and move with gusts.

That doesn’t mean a tree should be heavily thinned before a storm. Pruning needs vary by species and tree condition, so major pruning decisions are best left to a qualified arborist.

Foliage can also increase the amount of wind a canopy catches. For example, an eight-year study of street trees in Rochester, New York, showed that most branch failures happened while the trees were in leaf.

Why Wet Soil Makes Trees Easier to Uproot

Wet ground can add another risk during a windstorm. After heavy or prolonged rain, saturated soil may hold tree roots less securely. The U.S. Forest Service notes that saturated soil and shallow roots can make trees more vulnerable to being uprooted by wind.

Penn State Extension also notes that trees may begin leaning or uproot when wet soil can’t hold the root system securely. Raised soil around the roots can be one sign of movement. A full canopy catching strong wind while the roots sit in soaked soil can create a difficult combination for a tree.

Why Fall Windstorms Can Cause More Tree Damage

Fall storms can arrive before deciduous trees have dropped their leaves, leaving a full canopy exposed to strong winds. If rain has already soaked the ground, the tree may also have less support around its roots. The combination can increase the chance of broken branches, leaning, or uprooting.

A tree’s condition still matters. Decay, root damage, weak branches, and earlier storm damage can all affect how well it handles high winds. After a storm, homeowners should stay clear of trees with new leaning, lifted soil, cracked limbs, or hanging branches. Penn State Extension recommends professional assessment when a damaged tree could threaten people or property.

Sources

• Instagram user @fruitstitute, “Video”
• International Society of Arboriculture, “The Effects of Pruning Type on Wind Loading of Acer Rubrum”
• International Society of Arboriculture, “The Effect of Pruning on Service Requests, Branch Failures, and Priority Maintenance in the City of Rochester, New York, U.S.”
• International Society of Arboriculture, “Wind-Thrown Trees: Storms or Management?”
• Penn State Extension, “What to Do About Leaning Trees”
• U.S. Forest Service, “Windthrow”

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The Painted Lumber Ends You’ve Always Overlooked Have a Very Specific Purpose

There are a few things you should always check when looking through a lumber pile at a hardware store or lumber yard. Are you getting a straight board? Is it free of major knots or defects? Is it the right size and grade for your project?

But what about the paint color at the end of the wood?

Anyone who has spent time sorting through 2x4s has probably noticed that some pieces have paint on the ends of them. But why?

The confusing part is that there isn’t one meaning that applies to every painted board. Learn why lumber ends may be painted, what the colors can identify, and what shoppers should check before relying on the paint alone.

Why Lumber Mills Paint the Ends of Boards During Drying

Paint or another coating on freshly cut lumber can help slow moisture loss through the ends of the wood. The exposed end grain can dry faster than the sides of a board, which can cause cracks or splits as the lumber dries.

“End coatings are typically used to help prevent end checks on sawn lumber during the drying process,” according to research done by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, and Forest Products Laboratory. “These drying defects can cause a loss of valuable lumber.”

Timber Custom Woods describes the same process for logs and slabs.

“The ends of the slabs are painted in an effort to keep the ends of the wood from drying out to quickly causing cracking and checking,” according to Timber Custom Woods. “By painting the ends of logs before milling, we can help prevent splitting and cracking by slowing down water loss and allowing the logs to dry more evenly.”

The coating doesn’t stop the wood from drying. It helps slow moisture loss at the ends so the wood can dry more evenly.

What Different Paint Colors on the Ends of Lumber Actually Mean

There isn’t a standard U.S. color code for painted lumber ends. Blue doesn’t always represent one length, and red or green don’t automatically indicate a certain grade or species.

That helps explain the different answers in a Reddit discussion about 2x4s with blue-painted ends. Commenters described the colors used for certain lengths or products across different mills and lumber yards, showing how the meaning can vary by supplier.

A painted end may help slow drying, identify a particular product, or serve as an internal code for a mill or lumber yard. The color alone usually doesn’t provide enough information to identify the board.

Painted ends can also serve as a simple identification system. Lumber producers and mills may use different colors to separate types of lumber or identify species, grades, products, or brands.

U-C Coatings, which makes paint for lumber, says its end paints can serve these identification purposes. Because mills can choose from many colors, the shades don’t follow one nationwide system.

Individual companies may also use a recognizable color for a specific product. Dunn Lumber, for example, sells its signature blue-end studs. In that case, the blue identifies that company’s line of framing lumber rather than all lumber of a certain size or grade.

Sources

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory, “Effects of End Coatings on Defects During Air-Drying of Lumber”
U-C Coatings, “GEMPAINT PLUS Premium Lumber Latex Paint”
Dunn Lumber, “High-Quality Lumber: The Story Behind Our Signature Blue-End Studs”
Timber Custom Woods, “Facebook post”
Reddit, “Why are the 10 feet 2x4s being painted blue on one end?”

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