This DIYer Transformed a Crumbling 1940s Shed Into a Dream Home Office

In Family Handyman‘s series DIY Diaries, real DIYers share the projects they’re most proud of. They recount the full story—from laying out the initial plans and wrestling with frustrating setbacks to celebrating their proudest moments. These candid accounts reveal the true ins and outs of DIY, and will leave you with practical tips that’ll give you the confidence to conquer your next build.

Family Handyman reader Scott McDermott’s DIY Diaries project is a fantastic shed transformation that serves as a testament to what can be accomplished with a simple framework and a vision. McDermott explains that the entire project came about when “one of my friends, Dan Michels, who is an architect, was visiting from out of town.” The two were walking around the property and discussing the possibility of adding on an office space when “we came to the old dilapidated shed, which was built in the 1940s.”

According to McDermott, “when Dan stepped inside, he really had an immediate vision of what the space could become.” McDermott explains, “I have that ability with gardens, but Dan has that ability with homes and structures. He was really the one who inspired me to take on this project.”

The Project Stages

What was the inspiration for this project?

When it comes to starting a project, McDermott gets a lot of his inspiration from “magazines, sometimes Instagram, Pinterest, old books, and other homes I have visited.” If he sees something he likes, he saves it. “I always start with idea boards to develop a vision,” he says. As far as this shed transformation goes, the goal “was to create a truly enjoyable space to work in; somewhere that I wanted to go.”

McDermott is a landscape designer, so he was looking to create his ideal workspace. “A quiet space where I can sit down for hours at a time and focus on work, separate from my home, away from all the normal distractions,” he said of his dream office. When it came to the overall feel of the space, he wanted it “to have a very minimalist vibe, comfortable and simple.”

Walk me through the stages of this shed transformation

McDermott’s shed transformation took roughly one year from planning to finishing since, in his words, “I was chipping away at it whenever I had time to spare.” Step one was the planning and design process, which McDermott says Michels, his architect friend, helped with. Michels “put together a basic floor plan with suggestions for things like new door placements and the addition of skylights and a wood stove.” Once the plans were in place, McDermott turned to his wife’s uncle, Kyle Engle, “to evaluate the existing framing of the structure, adding to it where needed.”

He and Engle “did all of the new framing work, insulating work (with rock wool), putting a new roof on, adding skylights, a new full glass door, new hickory flooring, drywall, restoring the original windows, and painting.” McDermott brought in professionals for one step: “I hired an electrician to re-wire the structure, add a ceiling fan, new pendant lights, and bring it up to code.”

Did you run into any setbacks?

When you’re starting with an old structure, you’re bound to run into some setbacks. Given that this shed was built sometime in the 1940s, “nothing was straight anymore,” McDermott says, “and the roof had a slight lean to it, so when we went to do anything, it was a challenge because nothing was square.” This means pretty much “everything had to be custom-cut – the flooring, the roof, even the insulation didn’t fit into the old studs, so I had to cut each piece.” The other major setback was “permitting and waiting for permits to clear in between the various stages of the project.”

Was there an aspect of this shed transformation that intimidated you until you tried it?

McDermott says that framing was initially intimidating, but Engle taught him how to do it. “You just have to make the right measurements, follow the right spacing, and it’s not that hard,” he says, “especially when you have a good chop saw and a framing nailer.”

Did you use any budgeting hacks on this project?

McDermott was clever with the project’s budget. “[I] used Facebook Marketplace to find some really nice Hickory flooring, which someone had leftover from a larger project,” he shares. He also used the marketplace “to furnish the space with all second-hand furniture.” When it came to other materials, he looked through the remnants of the original shed and “opted to save anything that I could from the original structure, including the original ceiling, original windows (which I restored), original siding, and one of the original doors.”

But perhaps “one of the biggest cost savings was the insulation.” Initially, McDermott was going to go with spray foam, but that would have cost $5,000-6,000. “Instead, I was able to insulate the entire space with rock wool for just over a thousand,” he shares.

Was there a specific moment where you felt most proud?

“The first time I was able to light a fire in my new office, and actually work out there was pretty special,” McDermott says. “Knowing that I had built it all myself was all the more rewarding.”

If you could have a do-over on this, what’s one thing you’d change?

McDermott’s main “do-over” concerns timing. “If I could go back in time, I would have started this project years ago! I didn’t realize how much use I was going to get out of it.”

Advice to Aspiring DIYers

What’s one piece of advice you’d give to someone before they start a similar project?

“If there’s one piece of advice I can give, it’s take it slow and do it right,” McDermott begins. “I didn’t rush this project, and as a result, I have no regrets.”

If you’re looking for inspiration or to learn, he recommends YouTube. “It’s amazing how much you can learn by watching a few short videos.” If talking directly to people is more your speed, you can follow in the footsteps of his uncle, who “used to stand in the aisle at Home Depot and just ask the people working there a million questions.” He says that “those people have a lot of built-up knowledge.”

What’s next for you?

Next up for McDermott? “Installing cobblestones in my driveway.”

Do you have a DIY project you’d like featured on Family Handyman? Email us your project at fhmfranchises@tmbi.com.

The post This DIYer Transformed a Crumbling 1940s Shed Into a Dream Home Office appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: This DIYer Transformed a Crumbling 1940s Shed Into a Dream Home Office

I Built This Guitar Hook Out Of Only Offcuts— Here’s How It Turned Out

Cut and glue

If you’re buying lumber for this project, cut three pieces of 1-1/2-in. x 1-1/2-in. stock to 18-in. long—two walnut and one maple. That single glued-up panel yields all three pieces you’ll need later.

A guitar hook is a small project, though, which makes it perfect for using wood scraps. We built ours from scraps and offcuts, and because our pieces were only 12 inches long, we glued up two shorter panels instead of one to get enough yield.

Glue the strips together into a panel (or two) with alternating wood species: Walnut, Maple, Walnut. Make sure there is enough glue to see it squeeze out of the seams when the clamps are applied. Clamp the panels together and let them dry overnight. Placing a piece of plastic drop cloth under the glued-up panels will keep your worktable clean and make it easy to remove when the glue is dry.

Cut angled pieces

Cut the panel(s) into three pieces as laid out in the drawing below:

• A top section (A) that’s 5-1/4-in. long with a 22-1/2-degree angle on one end and a 45-degree angle on the other. Cut it long and trim (or dog ear) the top of the 45-degree angle to give yourself a 1/2-in. flatspot and get it to length.
• A middle section (B) that is 6-in. long and has 22-1/2-degree angles cut on both ends.
• A bottom section (C) that’s 5-1/4-inch long with a 22-1/2-degree angle on both ends. Again, cut it long and trim (or dog ear) the top of the 22-1/2-degree angles to give yourself a 1/2-in. flatspot and get it to length.

Drill the holes

At the drill press, use a 2-1/8-in. Forstner bit to drill holes in the top (A) and bottom (C) pieces. Drill the hole in the top (A) and bottom pieces with the Forstner bit centered 1-15/16-in. from the dog-eared ends, in the center of the glued-up.

Cut “U” shape openings

Use a bandsaw with a fence (or a board clamped as a fence) to cut straight lines from the dog-eared ends toward the sides of the 2-1/8-in. holes just drilled in the top (A) and bottom (C) pieces. This will create the “U” to accommodate the guitar neck.

Clean up any saw or drilling marks with a spindle sander.

Glue the pieces together

Use dowel centers to join the top (A), middle (B) and bottom (C) pieces with glue and dowels. Drill and use dowel centers to align the dowels and glue them in place with CA glue. Make the holes slightly larger than the dowels to give you some wiggle room and hold the exact angle needed for a seamless joint.

Tip: Using CA activator will make the glue set up very quickly.

Smooth out the back

This will soften the corners on the top and bottom of the hook, for a nice profile as it hangs on the wall.

Use a compass to draw a radius at the back of the joint between the top (A) and middle (B) pieces, and another at the lower point of the bottom piece (C). Use the inside of the joint as the pivot point for your curve.

Cut the two radii at the back of the joints using a bandsaw. Clean up the curves with a belt sander or spindle sander.

Finishing touches

With the hook assembled, a handful of small steps get it ready for the wall:

• Final sand. Give the whole piece a final pass with a detail sander to remove any remaining saw marks and round over all the edges. Start with 150-grit and work your way up to 320-grit.
• Pre-drill the hanging holes. Using a countersink drill bit, center the first hole 1-1/2-in. down from the seam at the top of the middle section (B), then place a second hole 1-1/2-in. below that.
• Make the plugs. While you’re at the drill press, use a 3/8-in. plug cutter to cut two plugs from maple. Move the stock to the bandsaw, cut the plugs from the back, and sand the fronts.
• Oil everything. Generously oil the hook and the plugs with two to three coats of walnut oil. Walnut oil won’t raise the grain, but if you use tung oil or another hardening finish, sand lightly between coats to knock it down. Set the plugs aside until you’re ready to hang.

Hanging the guitar hook

Before driving any screws, check the wall for a stud. If there isn’t one where you want the hook, install a drywall anchor first. Pre-drill your hole, drive the screw, and use a six-inch level to make sure the hook hangs level and plumb. Once it’s mounted, tap the maple plugs into the countersunk holes to cover the screws.

FAQ

Are wall hangers bad for guitars?

Hanging a guitar from a wall hook will not damage the neck. The neck is thick enough to withstand the tension of the strings and not lose its form. Therefore, also strong enough to hang on a guitar hook. A guitar, as with all wood items, will shrink and contract with exposure to sun and moisture. Whether hung on a wall or stored in a case, a guitar in a controlled environment will always be best preserved.

Is drywall strong enough to hold a guitar?

Drywall is strong enough to hold a guitar if you use an anchor to secure the screw.

How high should a guitar be hung on a wall?

If you’re hanging a guitar to play it, most people like the headstock five or six feet off the floor. I’d hang it a little higher if it’s purely decorative. Just be conscious of placement — keep it out of walkways, not so low that people brush against it or knock it around, and not too high or near HVAC ducts where it’ll be exposed to extreme temperature and humidity swings.

The post I Built This Guitar Hook Out Of Only Offcuts— Here’s How It Turned Out appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: I Built This Guitar Hook Out Of Only Offcuts— Here’s How It Turned Out

The Simple Loan Payment Trick That Could Save You Thousands in Interest

A mortgage payment is one of the largest, if not the largest, monthly expenses for most U.S. households. It’s become even more of a financial burden recently, with a 30 percent increase in homeowners behind on paying their mortgage in 2026 compared to 2025 and Google search inquiries skyrocketing for what to do if you can’t make your mortgage payment.

More homeowners are looking for alternative ways to cut down on these expenses, both in the short and long term. One popular strategy is to make weekly mortgage payments instead of monthly. The idea is simple: smaller, more frequent payments can feel easier to manage than one larger monthly payment.

Depending on the loan setup, it reduces the principal balance faster, dramatically cutting the total interest paid over the lifetime of the loan. But the actual benefits depend entirely on how the loan servicer handles those extra payments.

Learn how weekly payments work, where they can help, and what homeowners should ask their lender before changing their payment routine.

@cinotokenofficial Paying your mortgage weekly instead of monthly can slash years off your loan. Imagine saving that much interest! #MortgageTips #FinancialFreedom #SmartMoney #Homeowner #SaveMoney ♬ original sound – CINO Token

EMBED: https://www.tiktok.com/@cinotokenofficial/video/7639578824283278605?_r=1&_t=ZP-96ZoSMr9Fhm

How Weekly Loan Payments Can Help

Most mortgage repayment setups are based on 12 payments a year, sometimes on the first of the month or another default day. A weekly or biweekly payment strategy moves extra money toward the loan balance. And rather than making large lump sum payments or waiting until the end of the year or bonus time, this strategy allows households to more easily budget for it as a regular expense.

This is also beneficial for homeowners who budget weekly and/or are paid weekly,

“Making payments weekly equates to 1 extra monthly payment, resulting in 13 vs. 12 payments in a year,” says Adam Saab, EVP of Servicing at loanDepot. “Since interest is based on your principal balance, the amount charged will be less. Aside from the interest savings, the extra payments can reduce years off of a 30-year mortgage.”

Do Weekly Mortgage Payments Work For Everyone?

Weekly payments only work if the servicer applies them properly.

“Some mortgage servicers don’t have the technology to accept/apply weekly (or biweekly) payments, so the money is placed in a suspense account until a full contractual payment is received before being applied,” Saab says. “In these cases, the impact wouldn’t be as great.”

Extra paid toward the principal has a compounding effect since mortgage interest gets calculated from that balance, and a lower balance can reduce future interest charges. Extra mortgage payments need to go toward the principal, not prepaid interest, to have the biggest effect.

Extra payment calculators can help you understand just how much money you can save on your loan repayment.

Homeowners should also ask their loan provider about fees and prepayment penalties, according to Saab.

“Since some lenders don’t have the ability to process these types of transactions, some may limit the frequency of payments a homeowner is allowed to make,” Saab says. “You should contact your servicer to fully understand their ability/willingness to support.”

What To Ask Before Switching To Weekly Payments

Before changing a payment schedule, call your loan provider and find out the following:

• Do they accept weekly or biweekly payments and are they applied immediately?
• Will extra money go toward principal, not interest?
• Are there fees for this payment setup or does the loan include any prepayment penalty?
• Can the homeowner cancel or change the schedule later?

Alternatively, an extra principal payment annually instead of switching to weekly payments may feel simpler if the mortgage provider doesn’t support weekly or bi-weekly repayments.

About The Expert

Adam Saab is the Executive Vice President of Servicing at loanDepot. He has more than 25 years of experience in mortgage servicing and previously held leadership roles at CitiMortgage, PNC Bank, LoanCare, and Cenlar, where he oversaw large loan portfolios and servicing operations.

Resources

• Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, “What Is A Prepayment Penalty?”
• Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, “Your Mortgage Servicer Must Comply With Federal Rules”
• Fannie Mae, “Should I Make Extra Payments On My Mortgage?”
• Freddie Mac, “Extra Payments Calculator”

The post The Simple Loan Payment Trick That Could Save You Thousands in Interest appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: The Simple Loan Payment Trick That Could Save You Thousands in Interest

The Best Early Prime Day Deals for Homeowners and DIYers

VIA MERCHANT

Thermacell Fuel-ZoneGuard Mosquito Repeller

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 33% off

The Thermacell ZoneGuard creates a 15-foot mosquito-free bubble around you with no sprays, no smoke and nothing sticky involved. It’s either magic or chemistry, but either way, it works. Our editors have given multiple Thermacell models our stamp of approval.

VIA MERCHANT

Wise Owl Outfitters 4-in-1 Camping Hammock

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 53% off

Built for the outdoorsy type who can’t commit to packing light, the Wise Owl 4-in-1 hammock pulls triple (okay, quadruple) duty as a hammock, poncho, ground cloth, and more, all without weighing you down.

VIA MERCHANT

Blink Wired Floodlight Camera

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 70% off

The Blink floodlight camera hits a massive 70% off before Prime Day even starts, which feels like the right time to finally stop pretending your porch light is a security system. Your purchase secures HD video, two-way audio and 2,500 lumens of motion-triggered deterrence.

VIA MERCHANT

Retractable Garden Hose Reel

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 45% off

Say goodbye to the hose-pile-of-shame in your garage. The retractable garden hose reel auto-rewinds 100 feet of hose, so you’re not spending ten minutes wrestling with a tangle every time you want to water the tomatoes.

VIA MERCHANT

Offset Ratcheting Wrench Set

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 50% off

When the bolt is in an awkward spot, and your regular wrench is useless, this ratcheting wrench set steps in. Score double-offset design, reversible ratchet heads and enough leverage to actually get the job done.

VIA MERCHANT

Cordless Car Buffer Polisher Kit

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 39% off

The cordless buffer polisher makes your car look like you paid a professional to detail it. Two 21V batteries mean you can finish the whole job without stopping to hunt for an extension cord.

VIA MERCHANT

LED Flashlight 2 Pack

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 38% off

This flashlight 2-pack is the kind of thing you buy, throw in a drawer, then feel extremely smug about when the power goes out. Five modes, zoomable beam, waterproof (and you get two of them).

VIA MERCHANT

Digital Laser Tape Measure

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 38% off

Tape measures are fine, but the Fanttik A10 Apex does laser measurements up to 165 feet with a color display that actually shows you what you’re looking at. It’s the upgrade your tape measure doesn’t want you to know about.

VIA MERCHANT

Solar Outdoor Lights

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 38% off

The solar outdoor lights require zero wiring, zero electricians and zero excuses for not finally lighting up the back fence. Motion sensing, adjustable heads and remote control, all powered by the sun.

VIA MERCHANT

Smart Light Bulbs

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 37% off

Smart bulbs shouldn’t require a PhD to set up. The Linkind smart bulbs create anything from warm candlelight to crisp daylight via voice or app, and they work without fuss.

VIA MERCHANT

Narwal Freo X10 Pro Robot Vacuum and Mop

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 21% off

The Narwal Freo X10 Pro is built specifically for houses where pet hair is a never-ending struggle. It features tangle-free brushes, a mop arm that extends under furniture and smart navigation that actually maps your space rather than bumbling around.

VIA MERCHANT

Ceiling Fan with Lights

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 34% off

Low ceilings are annoying enough without having to sacrifice a decent fan. This ceiling fan fits flush, looks sharp, dims on command (and yes, there’s an app for it).

VIA MERCHANT

Paint Sprayer

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 33% off

Rolling on a fresh coat of paint by hand is deeply unglamorous. This paint sprayer speeds up fences, furniture, and any other project you’ve been putting off, with swappable nozzles so you’re not fighting the coverage pattern.

VIA MERCHANT

Outdoor Bluetooth Speaker with Lights

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 30% off

Turns out one outdoor Bluetooth speaker with lights is fun, but you can sync up to 100 of them for a full-on backyard party. And when they’re 30% off? Why not!

VIA MERCHANT

Ring Outdoor Cam

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 50% off

The Ring outdoor cam does color night vision now, giving you a better sense of what’s going on at night. Motion alerts, two-way talk, super useful.

VIA MERCHANT

Shark Rocket Ultra-Light Corded Stick Vacuum

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 45% off

The Shark Rocket is the vacuum you grab when you don’t have time for the full-size one. Lightweight, converts to a handheld in seconds and handles stairs without making you want to give up and just close the door.

VIA MERCHANT

Coleman Classic Rechargeable LED Lantern

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 35% off

The Coleman rechargeable lantern puts out up to 800 lumens for up to 75 hours, which covers basically any camping trip or power outage you’re likely to encounter. Adjustable brightness, rechargeable, no AA batteries required at 2 a.m.

VIA MERCHANT

4-Tier Revolving Shoe Tree

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 27% off

Your entryway floor is not a shoe museum, even if it currently looks like one. This shoe tree holds 16 pairs, spins for easy access and takes up surprisingly little space.

VIA MERCHANT

Shark WANDVAC Cordless Hand Vac

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 27% off

The Shark WANDVAC is the grab-and-go vacuum that lives on the counter for a reason. Crumbs, pet hair, car mess, done in 90 seconds without digging out the full vacuum.

VIA MERCHANT

TIKI BiteFighter Mosquito Repellent String Lights

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 39% off

String lights that also repel mosquitoes sound like something you’d invent after one too many ruined patio nights. The TIKI BiteFighter string lights are exactly that, and they actually work.

VIA MERCHANT

31-Gallon Outdoor Storage Box

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 38% off

This storage box holds 31 gallons of outdoor clutter: cushions, pool toys, garden tools, and it doubles as extra seating when you need it. An outdoor organization solution that earns its square footage.

VIA MERCHANT

8x4 Oval Galvanized Raised Garden Bed

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 33% off

Galvanized steel means this oval raised garden bed isn’t rotting in three seasons. The 8×4 oval gives you plenty of planting room for vegetables, herbs and anything else you’re growing this year.

VIA MERCHANT

9-Foot Patio Umbrella with Tilt and Crank

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 25% off

This patio umbrella is the kind of backyard upgrade that makes you wonder why you waited so long. Nine feet of UV-blocking shade, easy crank, push-button tilt—set it up once and use it all summer.

VIA MERCHANT

CRAFTSMAN Brad Nailer

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 32% off

The CRAFTSMAN brad nailer is a trim carpenter’s best friend and a weekend DIYer’s secret weapon. Reliable, precise and makes finishing work look more professional.

VIA MERCHANT

Beatbot Sora 30 Robotic Pool Cleaner

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 31% off

The Beatbot Sora 30 handles pool cleaning the way it should be handled: automatically. Floors, walls, waterline, all of it, while you do literally anything else. Read our full Beatbot review.

VIA MERCHANT

BLACK+DECKER 12V MAX Cordless Drill/Driver

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 30% off

Compact drills have a bad reputation for being underpowered, but the BLACK+DECKER 12V MAX drill earns its place in the toolbox. Eleven clutch settings, built-in LED, light enough to actually use one-handed.

VIA MERCHANT

Dreame H12 Pro Wet-Dry Vacuum

Shop on Amazon

Discount: 26% off

The Dreame H12 Pro is the wet-dry vacuum that cleans your floors and then cleans itself, which is the kind of product philosophy more things should adopt. Our editors also tested and loved a similar version of the Dreame H12.

The post The Best Early Prime Day Deals for Homeowners and DIYers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: The Best Early Prime Day Deals for Homeowners and DIYers

Jumping Worms Are Invading Gardens— Here’s How to Stop Them

If you’re a gardener, you know worms are good for the soil — at least in most normal situations. They’re an important part of the ecosystem; that is, when they’re in their native ecosystem. Recently, an invasive worm known as a ‘jumping worm’ has been identified. Much like the spotted lantern flies that have garnered attention in the past few years, this jumping worm invasion is spreading across the country. Unfortunately, that doesn’t bode well for the habitats it’s affecting.

What Are Jumping Worms?

According to information put out by Michigan State University (MSU), jumping worms are a type of earthworm indigenous to Japan. As they’ve moved into more and more of the United States, they’ve picked up several names, including “jumping worms, Alabama jumpers, disco worms, Jersey wrigglers, crazy worms, snake worms and even wood eels for species found inside rotting logs.”

According to MSU, these worms have several distinguishing features, including:

• snake-like movements with thrashing when disturbed
• mature length ranging from 1.5-8 inches (4-20 centimeters)
• smooth, glossy skin with a pale, whitish ring (the clitellum) that completely encircles the body
• large mouths that can be readily seen

MSU notes that a key difference between a jumping worm clitellum and that of a “naturalized worm” is that a jumping worm’s is “usually flat against the skin, rather than raised, occurring 14 to 15 segments after the worm’s head, versus 23 to 32 for naturalized worms.”

The MSU information also warns that “they can lose the ends of their tails when grabbed to escape capture.” So be prepared if you’re trying to catch one to study, or round them up to remove them.

Why Are Jumping Worms Bad?

If other earthworms are helpful for the environment, what makes jumping worms so dangerous? MSU explains that “activities of jumping worms change characteristics of the soil and alter the soil surface, destroying habitat that is important for native insects, ground nesting birds, and other small animals.” The key way this happens is through worm manure known as castings.

According to the MSU post, jumping worms “immediately begin feeding on leaves and decaying matter on the ground, disrupting plant roots and soil mycelium, which is an important part of healthy soil.” When they do this, they convert all of that matter into castings.

Unlike naturalized earthworm castings, which typically stay underground, jumping worm castings are more commonly found on the surface. This means that “the nutrients in the castings are not available for plants to use.” Instead, it “may be carried away in runoff after it rains.” MSU warns that “without a protective layer of mulch, the nutrients are eventually lost.”

This leaves behind “soil that is less fertile, less able to retain water and more susceptible to erosion.” As a result, “these conditions make it difficult or even impossible for some native plants and local wildlife to survive.” They also “make the land more prone to colonization by other invasive species that are tolerant of poor soil conditions.”

Additionally, while naturalized earthworms have factors that keep their population in check, jumping worms do not have “significant predators or other population controls on this continent.” Add this to their “voracious appetite and rapid reproduction without the need to mate,” and you’ve got a recipe for a takeover.

How to Tell if You Have a Jumping Worm Infestation

MSU says that “if your mulch is disappearing at a faster-than-normal rate, and the soil looks crumbly like used coffee grounds, jumping worms may be present.” According to their post, the best way to check for an infestation is to “look in damp, shady areas and scratch around the leaf litter and soil or look under logs and rocks.”

If you want a faster approach, the university also suggests that you “mix 1/3 cup of ground yellow mustard powder with 1 gallon (3.5 L) of water and pour it over a 1-foot (30 centimeters) square of soil.” The post explains that the mustard is an irritant to the worms, and they’ll come up to the surface to escape it. If you do find jumping worms, it’s crucial that you report them to your state or regional invasive species network right away. This way, their spread can be tracked.

How to Remove Jumping Worms from Your Yard

If you know that you have an infestation, MSU recommends a couple of different strategies to help. You can try to kill the eggs with a process called solarization. To do this, wait for a stretch of warm and sunny weather. Then, “spread 2-6 mil, clear plastic sheets over the soil and bury the edges to keep them in place.” MSU says that “studies indicate that cocoons will die in three to four days if the weather is sufficiently warm and dry.”

Another option is tilling your soil. You’ll want to do this in May, “when it is warming and worms have hatched, but before they are old enough to produce cocoons.” As you till, you’ll likely kill some of the worms and unearth others. The ones you find, you can destroy by “putting them into a plastic bag and leaving it in the sun for several days. You can also drop them into a container filled with vinegar or alcohol.”

Source

Invasive jumping worms: Background, identification and control, Michigan State University, 2025.

RELATED:

• 7 Reasons Why Your Houseplants Might Stink
• 8 Must-Know Tips to Drought-Proof Your Lawn
• Tired of Raking Leaves? Plant These Trees Instead

The post Jumping Worms Are Invading Gardens— Here’s How to Stop Them appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Jumping Worms Are Invading Gardens— Here’s How to Stop Them

Save Money By Tinting Your Own Car Windows Like a Pro

Clean the window and door from the outside

• Clean the entire window and door with tinting slip solution made from 1/4-teaspoon of blue Dawn dish soap mixed into 1-quart of distilled water. Squeegee the window clean.
• Spray tinting slip in the window seams —the narrow gaps along the edges of the window where the glass meets the frame or rubber gasket. Take the triangle hard card and wrap a microfiber towel around it. Use the point of the tool to get into the window seam to clean any dirt.
• Roll down the window. Spray tinting slip in the rubber gasket channels. Switch to the straight edge of the triangle hard card, wrap it with the microfiber towel and clean out the rubber channels. Wipe back any solution and dirt.

Cut and measure the tint

• Measure the car window. Tint comes in different-sized rolls, so choose a roll that is wider than your tallest window.
• Make sure the window is in the up position. Spray tinting slip solution on the outside of the window.’
• Unroll the tint from the box, enough to cover the window you are tinting. If you are doing a rear door with two window panes next to each other like us, measure the entire door span and add four inches to your measured length for two extra inches of overhang on each side. Cut the tint to length along the box edge to keep it straight, using a snap-blade utility knife with only one blade segment exposed for cleaner, more controlled cuts.
• Position the factory edge of the tint along the bottom of the window — not a side you cut. Roughly cut any excess off at the top to follow the window’s contour, leaving about an inch of excess. If your door has two panes, split the tint between them now. Lightly secure the tint film to the window with the hard card.
• Starting from the top left corner, cut down the left side to the bottom of the window. Remove the excess.
• Before cutting the right side, carefully slide the tint to the left, overlapping about 1/4 inch onto the door frame. Make sure the bottom edge is still lined up with the bottom of the window.
• Cut the right side along the window edge and remove the excess.
• Reposition the tint back to center with equal overhang on both the left and right sides. Peel the bottom of the tint off the window and drop it about 1/4 inch below the bottom edge of the glass so it overhangs onto the frame. Then roll the window down a few inches — this drops the top edge of the glass below the frame and gives you room to make a clean cut along the top.
• Line your knife along the top of the window and cut along the top edge for a clean, straight cut.
• Use the hard card and blade to straighten the tint at all four corners, then cut the corner points off at a slight angle. Sharp corners have very little adhesive contact and are the first spot to catch and peel up over time.

Heat-shrink the tint

Car windows are curved, but the tint film is flat. Before you install the tint on the inside of the glass, you need to heat-shrink it on the outside so it conforms to the window’s curvature. Skipping this step means wrinkles and bubbles that won’t come out.

• Position the tint on the outside of the window so the bottom edge sits about 1 inch above the window seam. Anchor it into position with the hard card. You’ll see the excess tint material bunch up into wrinkles along the bottom curved edge — these are called “fingers.”
• Use the heat gun to apply heat directly to the fingers. As the heat hits them, the wrinkles will tighten into small zigzag creases — that means the film is starting to shrink. Immediately scrape them down with the hard card to lay them flat against the glass.
• Continue working across the bottom until the tint lays flat and conforms to the curvature of the window.
• Peel the tint up and spray the window again. Reposition the tint so the top edge sits about 1 inch below the top of the window frame. Anchor it and repeat the same process — heat the fingers that form along the top and scrape upward to flatten them.
• Once the tint is fully shrunk to the shape of the glass, spray the side of the door panel with tinting slip. Peel the tint off the window and place it on the wet door panel to hold it in place while you prep the inside of the glass for installation.

Prep the inside of the window

The inside of the glass needs to be perfectly clean before you apply the tint. Any dust, residue, or debris left on the surface will be permanently trapped under the film. To do this:

• Apply double-sided tape to a piece of plastic sheeting and attach it to the door panel just below the window. This catches the dirty solution runoff and keeps it from dripping into the door panel and onto your interior trim.
• Spray the window with tinting slip and squeegee it clean.
• Spray the window again, then use your razor blade scraper to scrape the entire glass surface. This removes any sticky residue, adhesive, or contamination that the squeegee alone won’t pick up. Spray and squeegee clean one more time.
• Roll the window down about a third of the way. Spray and flush down the sides and bottom window seam to clear out any contaminants left behind from scraping.
• Use a clean microfiber towel to wipe the top edge of the window where the squeegee can’t reach.

Install the tint

• Spray the inside of the window with tinting slip so the tint can slide into position during application.
• Move to the outside of the car where the tint is parked on the door panel. Starting at the top corner, peel the backing liner (the clear plastic protecting the adhesive side) down about halfway, then spray the exposed adhesive side with tinting slip to keep it wet and workable.
• Peel the tint off the door panel from the top corner. Orient it so the adhesive side faces the window, and pinch both sides just below the top edge to hold it in place.
• Move to the inside of the car and gently place the top half of the tint onto the wet window.
• Slide the top edge of the tint up between the rubber weather seal and the glass, tucking it just below the rounded top of the window frame. Stop when you reach the backing liner that’s still attached to the bottom half.
• Use the hard card to squeegee the top half of the tint, pushing the tinting slip solution out from the center toward the edges to set it against the glass.
• Peel the backing liner off the bottom half of the tint and spray both the exposed adhesive and the window with tinting slip.
• Tuck the bottom and side edges into the window seams the same way you did the top. Use the hard card to squeegee the bottom half into position.
• Take the triangle hard card and slide it along the edges and bottom window seam to flatten the tint into the seams for a clean, tight finish.

Fix any remaining wrinkles

If you heat-shrunk the tint before application, it should already conform to the window’s curvature, and you can skip this step. If you didn’t heat-shrink or if wrinkles appear after installation, here’s how to fix them.

• If fingers appear along the top or bottom edges after application, use the heat gun to apply heat. When the wrinkles tighten into zigzag creases, use the hard card to push them flat — scrape downward for bottom fingers, upward for top fingers.
• Repeat until the tint lies flat along both the top and bottom edges.
• Never heat-shrink fingers that appear on the sides of the window. Instead, use the hard card to push them toward the top or bottom edge and shrink them there. Heat shrinking on the sides will distort the tint and prevent it from conforming correctly to the glass.

Installing tint on a fixed window

Fixed windows like quarter windows don’t roll down, so the process is simpler — there’s no heat shrinking and no tucking the tint under weather seals. The cutting, cleaning, and application steps are the same as the roll-down window, with a few differences:

• When cutting on the exterior, align the factory edge along the bottom and overhang the left side onto the divider between the windows by about 1/8 inch. Use the hard card to press the tint flat against the full surface before cutting.
• Carefully cut along the outside edge of the dot matrix border — the band of small printed dots along the window’s edge. Make sure the dots end up underneath the tint, not exposed. Tint doesn’t adhere as well to the dot-matrix area because the dots’ textured, raised surface prevents full contact with the adhesive. You may notice a slightly hazy or lighter appearance along this border — that’s normal and unavoidable on most vehicles.
• Since the window doesn’t move, you don’t need to roll it down to cut the top edge. Just cut, clean the inside, and apply using the same peel, spray, and hard card technique from the previous step.

Checking your work

• Inspect both windows from the inside and outside. Look for any fingers, bubbles, or debris trapped under the film.
• Use a flashlight to shine around the edges of the tint, checking for any gaps where light sneaks through. If you see light, the tint isn’t fully tucked into the seam — use the triangle hard card to press it back in.
• Once everything looks good, spray the window with tinting slip and wipe clean with a microfiber towel.
• Avoid rolling the window down for at least two to three days to give the adhesive time to fully cure.

FAQ

Can cops pull you over for tint?

Yes, they can. They have the right to pull you over if they see that your tint is darker than it should be, and it can be a costly offense if you receive a citation. Every state has different laws regarding the darkness of your tint, so look up the tint laws in your state to know how dark you can tint your windows before tinting your windows.

How to clean car windows with tint?

A mild soap-and-water mixture with a microfiber towel or a soft sponge will do the trick. You can also use ammonia-free products like Invisible Glass to help clean. Avoid using brushes, rough sponges, and cleaning materials used for the outside of the glass.

How long does window tint last?

Tint can usually last 5 – 10 years, but it really comes down to maintenance, sun exposure and how it was applied. Given those different factors, the lifespan of your tint can be shorter or longer. To make it last 5-10 years or longer, keep up maintenance and be sure to go to people you trust. If applying yourself, take the time to do it properly.

The post Save Money By Tinting Your Own Car Windows Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Save Money By Tinting Your Own Car Windows Like a Pro