This Incredible DIY Arcade Cabinet Is a Gamer’s Dream Come True

Determine the size of your arcade cabinet

Every dimension in this build comes from your monitor, so pick it and have it in hand before cutting any wood.

• Choose a 27-in. to 32-in. flat-screen monitor. Skip curved or tube-style panels unless you’re building extra cabinet depth to accommodate them.
• Match the resolution to what you’ll play: 1080p or higher for modern/emulated titles, lower resolution for classic arcade-era games (it can even look more period-accurate).
• Measure the width and height of the monitor. Add 1/2-in. to the width measurement — this becomes the interior width of your cabinet, giving the monitor clearance to slide in without binding.
• Flip the monitor face down on a towel or blanket, and measure where the mounting holes land in relation to the rest of the monitor. This spacing determines where you’ll drill matching holes into the monitor mount (M), which holds the monitor inside the cabinet.

Make the side panels

The side panels (A) are the most time-consuming part of this build to lay out and cut, since they combine straight angled cuts with a large curved arc:

• Use the factory edge of the plywood sheet as your baseline, and draw out the side panels (A) according to the drawing above. You’ll need a protractor or speed square for the angles. Stop when you reach the arc.
• At the arc, connect the end of the 5-1/4-in. vertical line at the top of the side (A) to the 9-1/2-in. line near the bottom of the arc.
• From the center of this roughly 24-1/16-in. long line, draw a 2-1/2-in. line perpendicular to it, toward the 32-in.  back edge of the side (A). Connect the two ends of the 24-1/16-in. line with the top point of the perpendicular line to form the arc.
• Cut the sides out, starting with the arc. A jigsaw is the easiest method, but a router with a circle-cutting jig gives the best results. Set the jig for a 30-1/4-in radius and rout the arc in three or four passes, stopping before you reach the 9-1/2-in. line at the bottom of the arc. Elevate the workpiece above the workbench so you don’t route into it.
• For the remaining straight cuts, clamp a track saw guide to the workpiece and cut.
• Use your first cut side as a template for the second. Or, if you have scrap sheet goods on hand, make a template from the scrap first and transfer it onto the project plywood.

Cut the remaining components

With the side panels done, the rest of the cabinet pieces are cut at the table saw and miter saw:

• Cut the logo panel (B), top panel (G), top door panel (H), door (Q), door panel nailing blocks (J), lower back panel (K), monitor mount (M), floorboard (L), and long and short inner braces (N and P) from 3/4-in. plywood, according to the cut list above.
• Cut the monitor frame (C), button panel (D), front panel (E), and speaker panel (F) from 3/4-in MDF.
• On the table saw, you’ll need to rip some bevels in a few of the pieces for everything to come together. All the bevels are ripped along the 28-1/2-in. long edges of the panels mentioned below.  They are:
  • A 24° bevel along one edge of the button panel (D).
  • A 12° bevel along one edge, and a 3° bevel along the other of the front panel (E).
  • A 15-1/2° bevel along one edge of the speaker panel (F).
  • A 45° bevel along both edges of the top door panel (H).
  • A 24° bevel along one edge of the floorboard (L).

Cut the monitor opening

The opening in the monitor frame panel (C) should frame only the visible screen, not the monitor’s outer plastic bezel. Our 32-in. monitor measured 16-1/2-in. × 28-in. overall, with a true screen size of 15-3/4-in. × 27-15/16-in.; we cut a 15-5/8-in. × 26-3/8-in. opening centered on panel (C), losing an inch or less of screen per side, a trade you can recover entirely by adjusting the display’s overscan / screen-size setting.

• Measure your monitor’s overall size and true screen size (excluding the bezel), then center an opening on panel (C) that’s slightly smaller than the screen — enough to frame the display while leaving structural material around the cutout.
• Elevate the frame panel (C) and clamp it to the bench. Using the track saw, make a cut plunge-cutting just ahead of your starting corner line and stopping right at the far corner.
• Reposition and clamp the track to repeat the cuts on the remaining sides.
• Finish cutting the corners by inserting the jigsaw blade into the track saw kerf channels and cutting straight into each corner until the center waste piece drops free.

Drill holes for the buttons

Joystick and button kits usually come with a paper layout template. We went with a simple single-player layout — five holes total: two action buttons, two start/select buttons, and one for the joystick — since our game list didn’t need more than that, but if you’re planning on titles with heavier input demands, plan your button count accordingly before you drill.

• Position the paper button template over button panel (D) where the joystick and buttons feel most comfortable for gaming.
• Use a center punch, or the spur of a Forstner bit, to mark a center point through the template and onto button panel (D) at each hole location.
• Clamp button panel (D) securely to the drill press. Use a 1-1/8-in. Forstner bit to drill through button panel (D), aligning the bit to each center mark. Place a sacrificial board underneath the panel to prevent tear-out on the back side.

Cut holes for ventilation fans

Even small electronics like the monitor and Raspberry Pi run better with airflow, so we installed two four-inch cooling fans. One on the door (Q) and one on the lower back panel (K).

• The fans include a small, clear plastic gasket that works well as a template for laying out the holes. Use it to mark the hole location centered left-to-right and top-to-bottom on each panel.
• Using a jigsaw or router with a straightedge, cut the square holes for the fans to sit in. These don’t need to be perfect — the fans have a bezel that sits over the edge of the hole, hiding any rough cuts.

Drill the power cord opening

To route the power strip’s cord out of the cabinet, we drilled a dedicated grommet hole in the bottom corner of the lower back panel (K).

• In the bottom left corner of lower back panel (K), measure 2-1/2-in. from the left edge and 1-1/2-in. up from the bottom edge. Mark the center point.
• At the drill press, chuck a 1-1/2-in. Forstner bit. Clamp the panel to the table, center the bit’s spur on your mark, and bore the hole for the grommet.

Cut the speaker opening

For audio, we used an inexpensive soundbar with a built-in subwoofer, mounted directly above the screen in speaker panel (F).

• Trace the soundbar centered on the face of speaker panel (F). Square out the lines with a ruler and speed square.
• Drill 3/8-in. holes through each corner of the square, then use a jigsaw to cut from hole to hole to rough out the opening.
• Use a router with a straight bit and a guide rail to clean up the four sides of the opening.
• On the backside of the speaker panel (F), rout a 1/4-in. wide × 1/2-in. deep rabbet all the way around the opening by stepping back your track saw track/rail adapter setup. Clean up the corners with a chisel.
• Make the soundbar grille from gutter guard mesh, cut to the soundbar’s dimensions plus 1/2-in. larger in each direction. Bend and shape the mesh to fit snugly into the opening against the rabbet.

Apply Edge Banding

Apply iron-on edgebanding to conceal the plywood edge on side panels (A) and the top and bottom edges of logo panel (B).

• Secure the panels with scrap 2x4s and clamps so the edge to be banded faces up.
• Turn on the iron and set it aside to heat up. I prefer a hotter iron, which means moving faster to avoid burning the edgebanding, but also means the adhesive on the back of the edgebanding sets quicker.
• Cut a length of edgebanding from the roll an inch or two longer than the edge you’re covering.
• Center the edgebanding on the edge and iron it on, keeping the iron moving to avoid burning it. Don’t worry about aligning the ends yet. Trim those later. You’ll see the adhesive melt along the edges where the banding overlaps the plywood. Iron the entire length, then let it cool for a few minutes.
• Use an edgebanding trimmer to trim the banding flush with the plywood veneer. Flush up the ends with a sharp chisel and a sanding block.
• Install and trim edgebanding one visible edge at a time, rotating around the panel. Leave the bottom of side panels (A) and the short sides of logo panel (B) bare as they won’t be visible after assembly.

Paint and stain

This project is much easier to paint and stain with the pieces apart than with them assembled.

• Use a palm sander to lightly sand all the plywood with 150-grit. Sanding oak plywood any smoother than this before staining will actually polish the pores shut, preventing the stain from absorbing evenly.
• Sand any kerf marks on the edges of the MDF components smooth as well.
• Apply stain to all visible sides and edges of the plywood components. Let dry.
• Apply two coats of paint to all visible sides and edges of the MDF components, giving ample drying time between coats.
• After the paint is dry, tack the speaker grill in place with a staple or two into the exposed MDF edge at the rabbet, just enough to keep it from rattling loose when moving the cabinet.

Burn the logo

To make the logo for the arcade cabinet, we decided to burn it into the plywood using a pryography pen.

• Use a 11-in. X 17-in. legal size printer to print out the design/letters in the size that fits well on your logo panel (B). You may have to print the image over two sheets of paper and seam them together.
• Use transfer paper and a metal or wood stylus to transfer the outline of your design onto the logo panel. Gently lift the image to ensure the carbon is transferring strongly enough to be visible as you work.
• Choose a pyrography tip with a thin point to trace over the transfer paper outlines and burn in your letter.
• Change to the wider rounded or chisel tip of the pyrography pen. Burn the space between the outlines to fill in the design.
• Once all have been burned in lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper
• Touch up any areas you would like to darken
• Wipe the whole pyrography with alcohol swabs. This will remove and excess char and make the design look crisp. Alcohol also cleans up the wood without bloating the wood fibers.
• Seal with oil-based poly and let dry.

Assemble the cabinet

With all the pieces cut, edgebanded, and finished, it’s time to glue the cabinet together. Dry-fit everything with clamps first — this is a unique enough shape that a test run is worth it — then assemble with wood glue and 1-1/2-in. 18-gauge brad nails.

• Glue and nail the lower back panel (K), floorboard (L), and top panel (G) between the two side panels (A), flush with the outer edges of the sides as shown in the drawing.
• Install the logo panel (B), front panel (E), and button panel (D) between the sides, recessed 5/16-in. from the front edge of the side panels (A), and secure them with glue and nails.
• Glue and brad-nail the nailing blocks (J) to the sides (A). The top door panel (H) is left off for now to allow access for wiring and electronics mounting. Once that’s complete, pin it on with 23-gauge pin nails.
• Position the monitor frame (C) and speaker panel (F) so they align with the panels already installed, then glue and nail.
• Let the glue fully cure before moving on to the next step.

Install the door

With the cabinet assembled, it’s time to hang the door (Q), which provides ongoing access to the interior.

• Flat-mount a piano hinge along the bottom edge of the door (Q). You may need to cut the hinge around the fan, depending on the size of your hinge leaves. Use a punch to mark the screw placement, then secure the hinge to the door (Q) and the lower back panel (K) using 1/2-in. screws
• Install the strike plate for the magnetic door catch on the inside of the door (Q), about two inches from the top and flush to the side edge, and screw it into place. Snap the magnet onto the strike plate, close the door to mark the magnet’s landing spot on the side panel (A), then screw the magnet into place at that mark.
• Install the knob at the top of the door (Q). Drill a 3/16-in. hole through the door, 2-in. down from the top edge and centered side-to-side, then insert the bolt through the hole and screw on the knob.

Finishing touches

A little touch-up work and a few coats of polyurethane will get the cabinet ready for the long haul. This is how we did it.

• Fill all the nail holes with stainable wood filler, wipe away any excess, and touch up those areas with paint or stain.
• Use painter’s tape and plastic sheeting to mask off all the painted MDF components.
• With a clean brush, apply a thin coat of polyurethane to the exposed sides of the plywood components and edge banding.
• Let dry for a few hours, then lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth any raised grain. Wipe clean with a tack cloth and apply a second coat.

Mount the monitor

Getting the monitor securely and safely seated takes a simple custom-built mounting system with a little patience for alignment.

• Stick foam insulation tape around the inside edge of the monitor bezel to cushion it and prevent scratching.
• Transfer your monitor’s VESA mounting pattern (typically 100mm x 100mm) onto the monitor mount (M), mark the four hole locations, and drill them.
• Attach the cross bracket (M) to the back of the monitor using machine screws sized for your monitor’s VESA inserts. You’ll need to buy these separately, as they aren’t included with the monitor — make sure they aren’t too long.
• Hold the monitor with the cross bracket (M) attached against the monitor frame (C) at the desired position (use an assistant if needed). Mark on the sides (A) where the back edge and bottom of the cross bracket (M) sit when the monitor is in its ideal position.
• Use wood glue and brad nails to attach the long braces (N) and short braces (P) to the sides (A), forming L-shaped cleats for the cross bracket (M) to sit in. Attach the long brace (N) along the back-edge mark, and the short brace (P) along the bottom mark, on each side (A).
• To mount the monitor, slowly lower the cross bracket (M) onto the L-shaped cleats, being careful not to peel the foam insulation. Wiggle it in if needed.

Electronics installation

With the top door panel left off for access, this is where the Raspberry Pi, controller board, and audio/power components all go in before the cabinet gets buttoned up.

• Center the pre-programmed Raspberry Pi and the controller USB encoder board inside the cabinet to minimize wire strain on the joystick and buttons.
• Connect the power supply, microHDMI, USB gaming stick, encoder board, and an aux cable to the soundbar to the Pi.
• Wire the buttons and joystick directly to the encoder board per the instruction manual.
• Route and secure both fans to their designated locations: the fan on the lower back panel (K) should draw air into the cabinet, and the fan on the door (Q) should blow air out.
• Place the power strip on the left side towards the back, positioning the power switch near the grommet hole for easy reach. Feed the power cord through the hole, then secure the plastic grommet with CA glue.
• Set the soundbar in its basin on the inside of the speaker panel.
• Connect the monitor, fans, Pi, and soundbar to the power strip. Plug in the main power strip and flip the switch to on. Verify power is reaching all components, then turn off the system.

Cable Management

With the electronics wired and powered, take a pass through the cabinet to route and secure all the cabling before closing everything up.

• Start at the joystick and buttons. Group and secure the button wiring with velcro cable ties as one section, then repeat for the joystick wiring.
• Apply adhesive tie mounts near the speaker to zip-tie the speaker cables. Place additional tie mounts down the side panel for securing monitor and speaker lines.
• Separate the main power cords from the monitor cables coming down. Route the power connections to the Raspberry Pi, fans, monitor, and speaker. Secure them with tie mounts and zip ties along a path that makes sense for your layout.
• Route the fan cable on the door (Q) with enough slack to prevent strain when the door opens and closes. Anchor it down with tie mounts and zip ties.
• Nail on the top door panel (H) to the nailing blocks (J) using 23-gauge pin nails, being sure to leave enough room between it and the top of the door (Q) for the door to close without hitting it.

Test and play!

With everything wired and wrapped up, it’s time to power on the cabinet and confirm everything actually works.

• Flip the switch on the power strip inside the cabinet. Use the remote to turn on the soundbar.
• Boot up the Raspberry Pi and check the monitor to see if it shows.
• Move the joystick and hit a button to test if it works. To make troubleshooting easier, connect an actual console controller to the Raspberry Pi, if you have one, so you can navigate the settings and system without relying on the arcade controls yet.
• With working controls, launch a game and verify that each button and joystick works as configured.

FAQ

Is it illegal to emulate arcade games?

Using an emulator to play arcade games is legal. Downloading game files (ROMs), disc images (ISOs), or console startup files (BIOS) that you don’t own the rights to is not; that’s copyright infringement. If you own the original hardware or games, making and playing your own backup copies is fine.

What’s better, Raspberry Pi or PC for Arcade Cabinet?

PC is going to be the superior choice for arcade cabinets – the processing power, graphics, and the use of an actual hard drive rather than an SD card make gaming easier with old and newer games. Raspberry Pi has its uses and is great for smaller cabinets that can’t hold a PC, but not great for newer games.

Is a 32-in. Monitor too big for a cabinet?

No. Personally, I like the bigger picture, and the game experience is much more enjoyable. The overall size of the monitor for your cabinet is based on your preference and the size of the cabinet you want to build. There are many out there with 40-in. + monitors.

The post This Incredible DIY Arcade Cabinet Is a Gamer’s Dream Come True appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: This Incredible DIY Arcade Cabinet Is a Gamer’s Dream Come True

Repair or Demolish? The $250M Kennedy Center Saga Has Lessons for Every Homeowner

After showcasing American culture for more than 50 years, the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts was recently shuttered for renovations. However, now the presidential administration is floating the idea of demolishing it instead. Some see this as a case study in just how expensive and involved a major building overhaul can get. And this sort of dilemma isn’t confined to large-scale projects — it’s one that many homeowners have to wade through as well.

“I sit with homeowners regularly who’ve already gotten two or three contractor opinions and still don’t know whether to fix what they have or start over,” says contractor Dylan Milroy. “That uncertainty is expensive.”

Ahead, structural engineers and contractors explain how professionals — and homeowners — decide when to repair buildings, large and small, and when it’s time to demolish.

The Scope of Kennedy Center Renovations

The full list of planned renovations hasn’t been publicly disclosed, but President Trump has stated his intent for a “complete rebuilding.” An internal email obtained by NPR listed tasks including upgrades to HVAC, safety and electrical systems, new seating and carpeting, “strategic painting,” reflooring the Concert Hall stage and other cosmetic changes. The renovations are expected to last two years, and so far congress has allocated $257 million for the job.

Repair or Demolish: How Experts Decide

Whether a building is worth renovating or tearing down and starting from scratch largely depends on the condition of the foundation and structural framing, as well as whether major systems can be brought up to code.

And it’s not always an all-or-nothing decision, says architectural engineer Andy Gibbs. “Unless you are buying a $2 million Malibu ‘teardown’ to build a $5 million house overlooking the ocean, rebuilding only the failed or obsolete portions usually makes more financial sense than demolishing everything,” he says.

One benchmark that contractors sometimes use is the “50% rule,” where demolition is the most rational path if the cost to repair a structure exceeds 50% of its replacement value.

“Professionals don’t guess when it comes to repair versus demolish decisions,” says contractor Kameron Khan. “That number gives you a clear line in the sand, and it applies whether you’re looking at a family home or a building the size of the Kennedy Center.”

Warning Signs It May Be Time to Demolish

A building may be too far gone to justify repairs if you have:

• deep or widespread foundation cracks,
• heaving or shifting soil around the foundation (signs of sinking or shifting),
• sagging rooflines or floors,
• floors that slope more than 1 inch per 8 feet,
• rotting load-bearing timbers,
• widespread mold,
• large-scale plumbing corrosion,
• severe or persistent water damage, and
• major recurring repairs.

“Those are not maintenance issues,” says Khan. “Those are the building telling you it’s losing the fight. That’s exactly the kind of compounding deterioration that triggers the 50% conversation at a professional level.”

Another major consideration is whether the building will need to be brought up to code. Many jurisdictions require homes undergoing renovations to meet current International Building Code (IBC) standards. That can include dozens of mandatory and cost-prohibitive retrofits, from higher insulation ratings to ADA compliance and even seismic retrofitting.

“When a building’s major systems are so outdated that updates trigger a cascade of mandatory code overhauls, you end up throwing good money after bad,” says general contractor Mikko Pasanen.

When Repairs Still Make Sense

If the foundation, load-bearing walls and roof framing are still sound — aka the building’s bones — then it’s often worth the effort to undertake renovations, including cosmetic work, new windows and doors and fixes to systems like plumbing, electrical and HVAC.

And if the building is historic, as in the case of the Kennedy Center, the 50% rule is often bent in favor of preservation. “Historic buildings possess the unique qualities of excellent craftsmanship and rich history,” says home renovator Herman Hartanto. “Even though costly to repair, it is worth it to preserve the character of a structure that cannot be replicated.”

How Does This Apply at Home Scale?

In general, single-family houses fall under the same rules as larger buildings: as long as the bones are strong, then they’re often worth saving. A structural engineer can help you assess this.

But even if the bones are in good shape, a detailed budget is still key for deciding whether to renovate or demolish. This is especially true in older homes, where walls and ceilings need to be removed to replace aging systems. In these cases, Gibbs says, “Gutting to the studs can be the smartest form of renovation because it exposes hidden problems and lets every trade work faster and correctly.”

The Takeaway

When deciding whether it’s best to renovate or demolish a home and start fresh, it usually comes down to whether the foundation and structural supports are in decent condition.

“Age alone does not condemn a structure,” says Gibbs. “A 100-year-old building with a sound foundation and dry, well-built framing may be a better repair candidate than a 30-year-old building with widespread water intrusion and structural deterioration.”

About the Experts

• Andy Gibbs is an architectural engineer, builder, inventor and remodeler with more than 50 years of hands-on design and construction experience. He is president of RemodX.com and author of Rebo’s Remodeling Rules: Remodel with Confidence & Authority.
• Dylan Milroy is a licensed contractor with experience in residential and commercial construction, and co-owner of Better Basements & Waterproofing in Oregon City, Oregon.
• Mikko Pasanen is a general contractor who works on residential, commercial and government projects through his company, Miko LLC, based in Phoenix, AZ.
• Herman Hartanto is founder of Tampa Fast Home Buyer, a company that fixes homes to resell, sometimes even when they have structural damage.  https://tampafasthomebuyer.com
• Kameron Khan works onsite with homeowners to asses what’s worth saving and what’s past the point of no return, and is founder and managing director of SilverWater Plumbing.

The post Repair or Demolish? The $250M Kennedy Center Saga Has Lessons for Every Homeowner appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Repair or Demolish? The $250M Kennedy Center Saga Has Lessons for Every Homeowner

Why I’m Adding a “95% Day” to Every DIY Project From Now On

“I’ll get to that eventually.”

If I had a dollar for every time I said that, or “that won’t take long to fix,” or “I’ll get to that tomorrow,” I would have no issues figuring out how I’d fund my next renovation project.

If you’re anything like me, and every other DIYer I’ve talked to, you’re probably guilty of procrastinating when it comes to actually completing a project. Not major things, but small things that would make a project truly finished.

Well, enough is enough. I’m finally making a plan to tackle these annoying final steps. Learn what a 95% day is, why, if you’re a DIYer like me, you should consider doing it as well, and other tips to stop putting off those end-of-project steps.

What Is a 95% Day?

Simply put, a 95% day should be used exclusively to go around and finish the things in your house you’ve been putting off. That doesn’t mean starting a new renovation, or even making more progress on one you recently started or are still far from finishing. Instead, it means tackling those small, annoying things on projects that were never “fully” completed. You know, things that are 95% done.

One of the best examples, and the one I’m most guilty of, is installing trim. I’m currently sitting in my living room, writing this essay about self-discipline while 25 feet away I can see a small gap where, months later, I still haven’t added trim for my “finished” kitchen remodel.

Replacing outlet covers, painting new drywall, filling nail holes, and installing cabinet hardware are other small fixes that would have taken a project from 95% done to actually done done, but for some reason took months to do.

Why Is It So Hard to Finish Those Final Details?

Neglecting that final 5% of a project can be explained, or rather, justified to yourself, in a few ways. My favorite excuse is typically something like, “It’s basically done anyway.” I tell myself, “No one really notices X, Y, Z that needs to be done, so why stress it?”

So instead of doing those little things that bother me a lot more than I will admit to myself or anyone else, I put them off and start a new massive project in my fixer upper home.

As I’m writing this, I’m realizing part of that reasoning is that doing a new renovation rather than tackling those last little steps feels like a better ROI on my time. Getting the bathroom gutted while the kitchen looks finished to the untrained eye gets me closer to having this house in the state I want it to be in.

But that’s not the right way to go about projects, and now I’m going to take the proper steps to address it.

Why You Should Add a 95% Day to Your DIY Routine

I’d be lying if I said this is the first time I’ve done a 95% day. The last was when my wife and I were in the process of listing our home for sale, and we finally did all those annoying little things that the next homeowners would get to enjoy longer than we ever did.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Emma Shoemaker | DIY & Home (@shoemakesnew)

A quarterly 95% day has officially been added to the calendar. By putting the event into written, or typed, form, I now have a digital reminder to hold myself accountable.

That trim in the kitchen is getting added. The light bulb in the bathroom vanity that burned out is getting replaced. The drawer slide that sticks and needs to be yanked open with the force of 1,000 Hulks? Yep, that’s on the list too.

So if you’re a typical DIYer who feels personally attacked by this essay, know you’re not alone. Consider adding a 95% day to your DIY routine, and finally give yourself the satisfaction of calling those almost-finished projects actually finished.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

The post Why I’m Adding a “95% Day” to Every DIY Project From Now On appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Why I’m Adding a “95% Day” to Every DIY Project From Now On

Why Do Some Cars Skip the Grab Handle Above the Driver’s Seat?

Most drivers are familiar with vehicle grab handles, also known as “assist grips.” They’re typically mounted on the vehicle’s headliner or ceiling above the side seats.

They don’t get a lot of use in my car, which is why it took more than a year of owning the vehicle for me to notice that there isn’t one located above the driver’s seat. Every other seat has one, but the driver’s has a divot where one would go but no handle.

No, it’s not a manufacturing oversight. After a little research, I discovered this is far from an anomaly. Learn why some cars leave out the driver-side handle and what the handles are actually for.

Why Some Cars Don’t Have a Grab Handle Above the Driver’s Seat

There isn’t one rule that determines whether a car gets a driver-side grab handle. Automakers decide where to place assist grips based on the vehicle’s interior and how each seat is used.

Mazda says its assist grips help support a person while seated and while the vehicle is moving. Toyota describes them in a similar way, saying assist grips “can be used to support your body while sitting on the seat.”

Because manufacturers describe the grip as a support for a seated occupant, that intended use may help explain why some models don’t include one above the driver. There isn’t a universal rule, and some vehicles do provide a driver-side grip.

What the Grab Handles Above Car Doors Are Actually Designed to Do

Overhead grab handles are meant to support someone who is already seated. They aren’t designed to hold a person’s full body weight.

Mazda warns against using the assist grips when getting into or out of the vehicle or rising from a seat. “An assist grip could break under a heavy load resulting in injury,” according to the automaker.

Toyota gives similar guidance. Its owner’s manual warns against using an assist grip when entering or exiting the vehicle and instead says the grips “can be used to support your body while sitting on the seat.”

A missing grab handle doesn’t mean the steering wheel should take its place. Drivers should avoid pulling on the steering wheel while getting into or out of a vehicle as the steering system isn’t designed to take force in that direction.

Curtain airbags aren’t a simple explanation for why some cars leave out the driver-side handle. Many vehicles have assist grips and curtain airbags in the same general area.

Mazda warns against hanging certain items from the grips because they could become dangerous during an airbag deployment.

“Hanging heavy or sharp-ended objects such as a coat hanger from the assist grips or coat hooks is dangerous as they can fly off and hit an occupant in the cabin if a curtain air bag was to deploy, which could result in serious injury or death,” according to Mazda.

Sources

• Family Handyman, “Here’s What the Grab Handles On Your Car Are Actually For”
• Mazda, 2026 CX-30 Owner’s Manual, “Assist Grip”
• Toyota, Aurion Owner’s Manual, “Assist Grips”

The post Why Do Some Cars Skip the Grab Handle Above the Driver’s Seat? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Why Do Some Cars Skip the Grab Handle Above the Driver’s Seat?

Why People Are Bringing Empty Milk Gallons to the Gas Station

It feels like no matter where you look, it’s impossible to escape shrinkflation. In order to lessen the blow of rising prices, many companies have been accused of reducing the volume of the product they sell. Smaller food portions, fewer ounces in packaged goods, thinner paper products, and smaller household-product quantities.

People already question whether gas stations are selling watered down gasoline, but are you really getting a gallon when the pump says you are?

Because drivers can’t see the gasoline entering a vehicle’s tank, the pump display provides the main measure of how much fuel is bought. A new social media trend shows drivers pumping what the dispenser says is one gallon into an empty milk jug, then pointing to a fill line that appears too low.

Learn why a milk jug isn’t a reliable test, how officials check pumps, and what drivers should do instead.

Why Milk Jugs Can’t Accurately Test a Gas Pump

The viral test looks simple: Pump one gallon of gasoline into an empty milk jug and compare the amount in the jug with the pump reading.

The problem is that a milk jug isn’t a measuring device. Its shape, handle, and empty space near the top make it difficult to judge an exact gallon by sight. A social media video also may not show every part of the test.

If a pump appears to dispense too little, officials need to test it with proper measuring equipment.

How Officials Test Gas Pumps for Accuracy

Gas pumps are checked by state or local inspectors using containers made to measure fuel accurately. They pump a set amount of gasoline into the container and compare it with the amount shown on the pump. That’s much more precise than judging the level inside a milk jug.

Drivers who think a pump gave them too little fuel can keep the receipt, write down the pump number and fuel grade, and report the station to the state or local office that handles weights and measures.

Why Putting Gasoline in a Milk Jug Is Dangerous

Milk jugs aren’t made to hold gasoline. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) warns against putting gasoline in inappropriate containers, including household containers that aren’t meant to hold fuel. Traditional fuel canisters might not always be accurate either.

Gasoline emits flammable vapors, and a milk jug lacks the construction and safety features of an approved fuel container. The National Park Service also warns that a milk jug may not safely contain gasoline or its vapors.

Anyone transporting gasoline should use a proper fuel container and place it on the ground while filling it.

Sources

• National Institute of Standards and Technology, “How Do You Measure Fuel at the Gas Pump?”
• National Institute of Standards and Technology, “Everything You Want to Know About Commercial Retail Motor Fuel Dispensers”
• U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, “Fuel Container, Gasoline and Other Liquid Fuel Safety”
• National Park Service, “Fire Prevention 52: Gas Cans”

The post Why People Are Bringing Empty Milk Gallons to the Gas Station appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Why People Are Bringing Empty Milk Gallons to the Gas Station

What This Year’s Super El Niño Actually Means for Your Home — and How to Prepare Before It Hits

Powerful storms, intense flooding and extreme heat are predicted to be hallmarks of this winter — but a little preparation could save a lot of damage to your home.

Extreme weather is set to intensify, at least through early 2027, thanks to an El Niño system that’s developing over the Pacific. Depending on where you live, that could mean floods and intense storms or drought or extreme heat.

“For homeowners, the biggest takeaway isn’t necessarily that we’re going to have a crazy winter,” says meteorologist Crystal Egger. “It’s that the potential for bigger swings in weather and more impactful storms deserves some attention now, before those storms arrive.”

Ahead, experts and home pros share what this winter’s El Niño could mean for your house — and the fixes worth making now, before the first storm hits.

What Is El Niño?

El Niño is a weather pattern that occurs when the Pacific Ocean is warmer than normal. That extra heat shifts atmospheric circulation, creating atypical weather around the world.

“As a result, some areas of the U.S. are drier than usual, and others are wetter,” says risk expert Melanie Musson. “So, you can expect huge winter storms in some places, and drought in others.”

How Are El Niños and Super El Niños Different?

They both represent the same weather pattern. However, super El Niños, like the one developing this year, have a stronger influence on large-scale weather patterns.

Why This Winter’s El Niño Is a Bigger Deal Than Usual

This year, the Pacific became much warmer than usual and earlier than usual, prompting scientists to predict that it could become the strongest El Niño ever. While El Niño is a natural cycle, scientists agree that this year’s event is likely intensified by climate change.

How El Niño Could Affect Your Region

Southwest

In general, meteorologists are predicting a wetter winter for Southern California and parts of the Southwest, with greater potential for heavy rain, flooding, mudslides and debris flows.

Pacific Northwest

Here, El Niño could mean a warmer and drier winter overall, says Egger, although individual storms cold still bring significant rain, wind and mountain snow.

Rocky Mountains

While the southern and central Rockies may receive above average snowfall, El Niño often means lower snowpack in the Northern Rockies (though some meteorologists are predicting heavy snowpack in Montana).

The South

Winter could be wetter in the southern tier of the U.S., with increased potential for heavy rain, flooding and severe thunderstorms. “When cold air is in place, some storms can also bring ice, freezing rain or snow, creating travel problems, power outages and property damage,” says Egger.

Northeast and Midwest

El Niño’s influence is less consistent here, says Egger. “Some areas can experience warmer-than-average temperatures and changes in snowfall, but local outcomes depend heavily on the individual storm track and other atmospheric patterns.”

The Home Risks to Watch For

It depends on where you live. In drier areas, wildfires are an obvious risk. Otherwise, the most significant concern is severe storms, bringing flooding, mudslides, power outages, fallen trees and frozen pipes.

“One of the most overlooked risks is water,” says Egger. “A home doesn’t have to be in a flood zone to experience water damage. Heavy rainfall can overwhelm drainage systems, expose weak points around roofs and foundations, and create localized flooding.”

The condition of a house also plays a large part in how well it will fare. “Two homes can experience exactly the same storm and have completely different outcomes, because one has good drainage and maintenance while the other has years of deferred repairs,” says real estate professional Lisa Martinez.

How to Prepare Your Home Now

Start now, before the weather turns bad. “Five minutes of preparation on a sunny day can prevent hours of headaches during a storm,” says Egger.

Maintenance tasks to catch up on include:

• Clean gutters and add downspout extensions to direct water away from the house.
• Inspect the roof for damaged shingles and flashing. “If shingles appear shiny or have lost their granules, it may be time for a closer inspection or replacement,” says Andrea Bessling with Allstate.
• Check drainage around the property. Make sure you understand where water is likely to go, and redirect it away from your home through grading, French drains, etc.
• Trim potentially hazardous branches away from the roof.
• Seal exterior cracks around windows and doors, and inspect weather stripping.
• Fix poorly closing doors and windows.
• Keep materials and tools on-hand for boarding up windows and clearing post-storm debris.
• Know how to shut off your utilities.
• Test the sump pump and backup generator.
• Add smart water sensors near water heaters, sinks and basement corners.
• Re-examine your insurance policy to ensure your coverage matches your weather risks. Remember, flooding isn’t typically covered by standard policies.
• Buy a whole home or portable battery backup system to keep essentials running (like the Anker SOLIX E10 or S2000).

Also, have a plan of action in place, for when a storm does arrive, including:

• An evacuation plan and way for your family to stay in touch if cell service goes out (like this emergency communications kit from Midland).
• An emergency kit, with essentials including water, non-perishable food, a first-aid kit, valuable documents, and more.
• Documentation of what’s in your home, like a room-by-room cellphone video, to help with insurance claims.

Should You Be Worried, or Just Prepared?

Just be prepared.“Don’t go into the rabbit hole of dread,” says Musson. “If you’ve done what you can to protect yourself, you should enjoy your fall, winter and spring without ruining them with stress.”

Egger agrees. “A strong El Niño doesn’t mean every homeowner is going to experience a disaster,” she says. “The best approach is to understand your local risks and take simple steps before the weather becomes a problem. You can’t control the weather, but you can control how prepared your property is for it.”

About the Experts

• Crystal Egger is an Emmy-winning meteorologist and founder of Monarch Weather + Climate Intelligence.
• Andrea Bessling is Claims Field Director of the National Catastrophe Team for Allstate.
• Lisa Martinez is a real estate investor with TX Cash Homebuyers, based in Houston.
• Melanie Musson is an insurance and risk expert at quote.com and an insurance and finance expert at Clearsurance.com.

Sources

• National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration: ENSO: Recent Evolution, Current Status and Predictions; September 14, 2026.
• World Meteorological Organization: El Niño set to become very strong, raising risks of extreme weather into 2027; September 3, 2027.

The post What This Year’s Super El Niño Actually Means for Your Home — and How to Prepare Before It Hits appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: What This Year’s Super El Niño Actually Means for Your Home — and How to Prepare Before It Hits

10 Ways to Make a Small Bathroom Feel Bigger

Frameless Shower Door

Shower curtains and framed doors can act like an extra wall, making a small bathroom feel even more enclosed. New York City–based interior designer Alyssa Alon recommends a frameless glass door to maintain uninterrupted sight lines. Clear glass keeps the space feeling open, while textured or frosted options can block light.

Large Mirror

Don’t be afraid to go big. “One of the best ways to make a bathroom feel more open is to install a large mirror above the sink,” says Daniel Jensen of NYC Interior Design. In rooms with low ceilings, mounting the mirror higher on the wall can create the illusion of extra height.

Floating Vanity

Exposing more floor creates the illusion of added square footage. “Vanities often take up a lot of room under sinks,” says Jensen. “If you’re willing to compromise on storage, a floating vanity will open up floor space.”

Wall-Hung Toilet

Like a floating vanity, a wall-hung toilet reveals more floor. “Being able to see tile instead of a bulky porcelain throne creates the illusion of space,” says Alon.

Large-Format Tile

Larger tiles mean fewer grout lines, making walls and floors look less busy. Alon recommends large-format tiles in soft tones, paired with matching grout for the most seamless appearance.

Right-Size Fixtures

Oversized vanities, sinks and toilets can overwhelm a small room. “Select fixtures that are the right scale for the space,” says Jensen. Before buying, sketch your layout or use painter’s tape on the floor to visualize how everything will fit.

Continuous Flooring

“Sectioning off the bathroom with different patterns and tones can make a small space feel crowded,” says Alon. Use the same flooring throughout the bathroom—and into the shower—to create a seamless look.

Light Colors

Light colors reflect more light and make walls appear to recede. “Light, soft and neutral colors open up any small room,” says Alon. Extending the color onto the ceiling minimizes visual breaks.

Minimal Clutter

“Keeping surfaces clean and storing away bottles makes your bathroom feel bigger,” says Alon. Store everyday items in dedicated drawers or cabinets, or move backup supplies to a nearby linen closet or other storage area to keep visual clutter to a minimum.

Strategic Stripes

Horizontal stripes make walls appear wider, while vertical stripes draw the eye upward, making ceilings seem taller. Whether they’re created with paint, wallpaper or tile, keep the contrast subtle so the pattern enhances the space instead of overpowering it.

The post 10 Ways to Make a Small Bathroom Feel Bigger appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: 10 Ways to Make a Small Bathroom Feel Bigger