What’s Downshifting? The Trend That’s Helping Homeowners Do More With Less

Sometimes less IS more. At least, that’s what one home and lifestyle trend would have you believe.

A house can demand more time and money than homeowners expect. Spare bedrooms fill up with things nobody uses, the yard needs another afternoon of work, and there’s always something that needs fixing. Downshifting is one way homeowners are trying to change that.

Here’s what downshifting means, how it’s different from downsizing, and whether it can actually save money.

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What Downshifting Means and How to Get Started at Home

Downshifting is pretty much what it sounds like. It’s a decision to slow things down a bit, spend less, and get rid of some of the things that take up too much time or space around the house.

Permaculture writer David Holmgren covers the idea in his book RetroSuburbia, which describes downshifting as “a conscious choice and action to shift to a lifestyle with less consumption, complexity, stress and status seeking.” The idea is to make everyday life a little easier to manage, whether that’s by cutting expenses or having fewer responsibilities.

It sounds a lot like downsizing, but the two aren’t quite the same. Downsizing usually means moving to a smaller house or getting rid of belongings. Downshifting doesn’t necessarily involve moving at all.

One family might trade a large house for a smaller place that needs less maintenance. Another might stay right where they are, stop buying things they don’t need, or spend less time working on the house.

Homeowners can start by looking at what’s taking up the most time or money. Maybe that’s a garage full of things that haven’t been used in years, or a spare bedroom that’s become a storage room. Clearing out those spaces can mean less to clean and look after.

Other changes can be pretty small, too. Borrowing a tool instead of buying one, fixing furniture rather than replacing it, or starting a small vegetable garden are all examples. The Environmental Protection Agency also recommends buying less and reusing things to help reduce waste.

Even looking for ways to lower utility bills, like sealing drafty windows or keeping up with heating and cooling maintenance, can be part of downshifting.

How Downshifting Can Affect Household Expenses and Daily Life

One reason people consider downshifting is to save money. Buying fewer things and using less energy can certainly help, but moving to a smaller home doesn’t automatically mean smaller bills.

“New homeowners are often surprised by the costs of owning property,” according to the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau. The agency recommends putting together a budget that includes property taxes, insurance, repairs, and other expenses beyond the mortgage.

There are some practical things to consider, too. A smaller house might not have enough room for a growing family, and moving farther away could mean a longer commute. Even growing vegetables or repairing things around the house takes time.

Still, for some households, having fewer things to pay for and maintain can leave more time for family, hobbies, or just enjoying the house they already have.

And that’s really the point of downshifting. It doesn’t have to mean selling a house or getting rid of everything. Sometimes it’s as simple as deciding the house doesn’t need another project or another piece of furniture.

Sources

• David Holmgren, “RetroSuburbia: The Downshifter’s Guide to a Resilient Future, book overview and chapter resources”
• U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “What You Can Do About Climate Change: Waste”
• Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, “Figure Out How Much You Want to Spend”

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What Happened to Cheap, Basic Cars?

There was a time when buying a cheap new car was relatively simple. The answer might have involved crank windows, manual door locks, an AM/FM radio, and seats upholstered in something that looked suspiciously like industrial carpeting.

Today, the idea of a truly low-budget, no-frills vehicle is getting hard to find. Even the least expensive new cars come with touchscreens, driver-assistance systems, connectivity features, multiple airbags, and enough electronic wizardry to make a 1990s luxury car look like a farm tractor by comparison.

That raises a reasonable question: Can you still buy a genuinely inexpensive, basic vehicle in 2026? The short answer is yes, but “basic” no longer means what it used to.

The No-Frills Car Isn’t Really No-Frills Anymore

Before we talk about what no-frills, low-budget vehicles are available, it’s important that we set a baseline for what that kind of car is in today’s market. 

Modern safety and fuel economy technology are two of the biggest reasons today’s inexpensive vehicles don’t look anything like their ancestors. A new car sold in the United States must meet extensive federal safety requirements. That means airbags, stability control, rearview backup cameras, crash protection, and a long list of other requirements.

Consumers have also developed expectations. Try selling a new car without air conditioning today and see how quickly the internet catches fire. Nobody wants to return to the days when a buyer had to choose between air conditioning and an AM/FM radio. Budget buyers today expect power windows, remote locks, smartphone connectivity, and decent climate control.

The result is an interesting middle ground. Today’s cheapest cars aren’t truly bare-bones. Automakers have figured out how to put a surprising amount of technology into relatively inexpensive vehicles without necessarily making them luxury cars.

The $20,000 Car Is a Unicorn

For years, the sub-$20,000 new car was the entry point for budget-conscious buyers. Models like the Mitsubishi Mirage, Nissan Versa, Chevrolet Spark, and various tiny hatchbacks gave shoppers an inexpensive way into a new vehicle.

Many of those cars are gone now. The market has steadily moved toward larger vehicles, more equipment, higher prices, and greater complexity. That doesn’t mean inexpensive cars have disappeared. It means the definition of inexpensive has moved upward. A buyer looking for a new vehicle in the low-$20,000 range can still find options, but those vehicles aren’t exactly stripped-down A-to-B appliances anymore.

Even inexpensive cars now tend to have infotainment screens, Bluetooth, backup cameras, automatic emergency braking, lane-departure warnings, and other features that were once the exclusive territory of expensive luxury models. 

“More Expensive” Is Not Actually a Problem

The economy in the U.S. has changed significantly. Not just from COVID and various political changes, but also from the general mindset of most Americans. When we compare pricing from 30 or even just 15 years ago, we often mentally skew the results due to our perspective of that change. It’s important to remember that, thanks to inflation, a dollar from 2011 is not a dollar in 2026. That ‘11 dollar is now $1.49. Inflation compounds and that 15 years has meant a 49 percent decrease in value for our money. 

Knowing that, we can compare the average new vehicle purchase price (currently about $51,000) today with the average 15 years ago ($30,500). Then we can compare those values to the average household income from both eras: $50,000 in 2011 and $87,500 in 2026. Doing that, we find that things haven’t changed much. 

The average new vehicle price seems very high compared to 15 years ago, but it was about 60 percent of the average household income in 2011 and is still that for 2026. 

Are Used Cars Where the Real Bargains Live?

Yes and no. If your definition of low-budget means “I need reliable transportation and I don’t care whether it has the latest technology,” the used market is still where you’ll get a good deal. But a good deal doesn’t always mean good value. Shopping for a used vehicle is a whole discussion unto itself and countless books, videos, and articles have been made detailing the do’s and don’ts.

What’s important and relevant here is to realize that while a three- to seven-year-old compact car can provide much of the transportation value that new economy cars once offered, it will come with some downsides. The trick is to shop based on condition and ownership history rather than simply finding the cheapest four-door vehicle.

What’s more, the used car market has changed significantly since the COVID blip. Up until just before the shutdowns began, the used car market remained relatively steady in pricing versus the new car market, with long-term changes largely following inflation. During COVID, used car prices jumped by about 49 percent as demand for vehicles collided with a lack of new vehicles due to closures. Afterward, as new cars began to once again appear on dealership lots, the used car market eventually saw less demand and adjusted accordingly.

That adjustment, however, wasn’t back down to pre-COVID numbers. It’s still 17 percent higher than it was. And it seems to have decided to hold steady there. The reason used cars are much more expensive is, again, supply and demand. This time between used car availability and demand from buyers wanting them. There are fewer used cars being sold because owners are keeping their used cars longer. This disparity and its higher price result has been a big driver in new car sales for the past few years. 

So, Can You Still Buy One?

Yes, but you have to adjust your expectations. If your definition of “no-frills” is “nothing I don’t need,” the new-car market still has possibilities. If your definition is “give me an engine, four wheels, a steering wheel, and absolutely nothing else,” you’re probably shopping used or waiting on the upcoming Slate pickup truck.

For now, here are the five lowest-cost new vehicles you can buy in 2026, ranked by base model price tag and not including shipping and destination charges:

1. Hyundai Venue, $20,550 – the subcompact size and lower-cost interior materials are the primary reason for this car’s low price tag. 
2. Chevrolet Trax, $21,700 – as a subcompact SUV, the Trax has a long-lived engine that’s cheap to build and a lack of interior amenities to keep its price low.
3. Kia K4, $22,290 – previously the Forte, the K4 has long been Kia’s lowest-cost vehicle and has kept competitive through high volume global sales.
4. Nissan Kicks, $22,430 – the Kicks replaces the Versa as Nissan’s budget vehicle, but at a higher cost due to its SUV styling.
5. Nissan Sentra, $22,600 – a long-lived and well-accepted sedan, the Sentra is now the lowest-cost car in Nissan’s lineup.

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4 Common Tools With a Hidden Second Function Most People Never Use

Pliers Have Built-In Wire Cutters for Small Repairs

Some pliers have built-in wire cutters near the hinge, just behind the gripping jaws. These can trim soft wire without needing a separate pair of cutters. Not every pair has this feature, though. It’s also worth checking whether the tool has wire strippers, which remove insulation without cutting through the wire itself.

Wire Strippers Can Also Cut Screws to Length

Some wire strippers have small, threaded holes near the handles that allow users to shorten machine screws. The screw goes into the appropriately sized hole, and squeezing the handles cuts it to length. This feature can come in handy when installing electrical fixtures or other hardware that requires shorter screws.

Manual Can Openers May Have Built-In Bottle Openers

Some manual can openers have a bottle opener built into the handle or near the cutting mechanism. Depending on the design, it may look like a small notch or hook in the metal. Other models have magnets that help lift cut lids from cans without touching the sharp edges.

Nail Clippers Often Have Built-In Nail Files

Many nail clippers have a small metal file that folds out from beneath the lever or sits along the body. It helps smooth rough edges after trimming. Some models also have a pointed tip for cleaning beneath nails, although the design and placement of these extra features vary.

Sources

• Channellock, “528 8-inch Slip Joint Pliers“
• Klein Tools, “Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper/Cutter, 8-20 AWG“
• Milwaukee Tool, “FASTBACK 6-in-1 Folding Utility Knife“
• OXO, “Steel Can Opener“
• Zwilling, “Classic Manicure Pedicure Nail Clipper Set“

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How Old Is Too Old To Use a Chainsaw?

While you may take great pride in your ability to take care of things around the house, be careful when it comes to using a chainsaw as you age. Unlike other powered lawn equipment, chainsaws carry a significant risk of personal injury— and can be deadly in the wrong hands.

Ahead, learn how to evaluate when you may be too old to operate a chainsaw and should call in a pro instead, with help from physical therapist Dr. Ron Miller and manual therapist Doug Bertram.

Risks of Using a Chainsaw as You Age

Chainsaw injuries can happen in a fraction of a second and are often due to losing control of the saw during operation. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention reports roughly 36,000 chainsaw injuries each year, resulting in serious lacerations, traumatic brain injuries, limb loss or death. 

While chainsaws are dangerous to operate at any age, the risks are even higher for older adults. “As we grow older, our ability to control our balance, grip strength, reflex times, eyesight and physical stamina dramatically decreases,” Miller says. “This makes it difficult to operate chainsaws.” It’s crucial that you have the strength and stamina to handle a chainsaw in all conditions to avoid injury. 

Tips for Using a Chainsaw Safely as You Age

If you’re not ready to put down the saw yet, consider these tips to do it safely. 

Focus on small projects

Cut smaller logs and branches that are safely on the ground and avoid cutting while on a ladder or felling trees. Hire larger jobs out rather than tackling them yourself.   

Opt for a lighter saw

Consider using a lightweight, electric saw that is easier to control. Regardless of the saw, always make sure the chain is sharp and properly tightened before use. 

Follow safe practices:

Wear protective gear: Wearing eye and hearing protection, gloves and sturdy footwear is always sound advice, but don’t overlook chaps too, Miller says. Worn over pants and designed to stop a chainsaw chain, chaps can be the difference between a fatal injury and a superficial wound.

Never cut alone: Always have a cutting partner who remains nearby to help identify dangerous situations and call for help in the event of an accident. 

Avoid working to fatigue: “Take breaks to stay awake and alert while operating a chainsaw,” Miller says. Stay well hydrated and fueled to keep your mind sharp during operation and stop when you start to feel tired.

So…. How Old Is Too Old To Use a Chainsaw?

“There’s no age that makes you too old to use a chainsaw,” Bertram says. “[But] you need adequate grip strength, adequate balance and good mental acuity.” It’s less about a specific number and more about your general health and ability. Conduct these physical fitness tests at home to gauge your grip strength, balance, leg and back strength, coordination and endurance. How you perform on these tests will give you a good idea of your functional fitness levels and whether handling a chainsaw is a good idea or not.  When in doubt, hire a pro. 

FAQ

What are some safer alternatives to chainsaws?

For smaller limbs and logs up to 12-in. in diameter, a bow saw or reciprocating saw with a pruning blade are lower risk options.   

Is there an age limit for using a chainsaw?

Federal law prohibits anyone under the age of 18 from operating a chainsaw in a work setting, but there are no age limits for private chainsaw use on a residential property.

About the Experts

• Dr. Ron Miller is a doctor of physical therapy and the owner of Pursuit Physical Therapy in Orlando, Florida.
• Doug Bertram is a manual therapist, licensed acupuncturist and CEO of Structural Elements, a national franchise providing orthopedic wellness care. 

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We Tested Ryobi’s $129 Pressure Washer — Here’s What It Can (and Can’t) Do

Nothing sets you up for a better spring than taking some time for some seasonal cleaning in the fall, and one of the best tools for autumn home cleanup is a classic pressure washer. If you’ve got a surface or a screen you need sprayed, a pressure washer can deliver enough pressure for all kinds of scrubbing.

But even the most avid pressure washer advocates would tell you they’re also pretty cumbersome tools that require a lot of setup and garage storage space. That’s exactly why I wanted to try out this portable pressurized washer from Ryobi. The concept is intriguing, promising users a fraction of the size, cost and power of a standard pressure washer. I was very curious whether this tool would actually provide more cleaning power than a standard garden hose nozzle.

VIA MERCHANT

ONE+ 18V 700 PSI Cordless Cold Water Electric Power Cleaner

$129 at the Home Depot

The Tool

The first thing I noticed when unboxing the Ryobi One Plus Electric Power Cleaner was how substantial the tool felt. I was expecting it to feel a little flimsy, but the tool felt well-built in my hands. It all assembled easily in just a few clicks, taking only a small fraction of the time it would’ve taken to set up a full-size pressure washer. And if you’re worried about water ruining your battery, don’t be. The entire battery chamber is enclosed by a tightly sealed plastic housing.

How We Tested It

For this test, I decided to replicate a classic fall cleanup task: hosing down screens. I wanted a big surface to clean, so I pulled the screen door off the back door and set it up in the backyard. Then, I applied a light coating of flour to the middle of the screen and a light mist of water to lock the flour in place.

From there, I just had to finish setting up the Ryobi pressure washer. It comes with three different nozzles: two flat angled nozzles and one “turbo nozzle” that sprays the water in a speedy spiral. All I had to do was attach the pressure washer to a garden hose, and the tool was ready to go. Then I just set myself up in front of the screen with the pressure washer the recommended distance (1-2 feet) from the screen. ‘

All that was left to do was let it rip. The first thing that stands out when you use this portable pressure washer is that it feels a little underwhelming when you pull the trigger- especially if you’ve ever used a full-sized pressure washer. There’s not much kick, and the water leaves the nozzle at a steady but uninspiring speed. For a few seconds, I was worried the 700psi of pressure wouldn’t be enough to clean up the floury mess I’d created.

But my worries lessened the longer I used the tool. It was gentler than the pressure washers I’d used before, but it provided a consistent stream that quickly started knocking the flour loose from the screen. Things started going even better once I switched to the turbo nozzle. The spin action really helped compensate for the lack of PSI pressure. Within another minute, I had knocked off a ton of the sticky flour from the screen.

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The Verdict

So enough waffling… what’s the verdict? It’s pretty clear, as soon as you start using this tool, that the Ryobi tool isn’t going to fully replace a full-sized pressure washer… especially if you need to really blast something. But there are many use cases for a pressure washer where consistency is more important than power. And if you’ve ever accidentally damaged something with a pressure washer, the reduced power of this tool might even be something you consider a pro.

It took a while, but eventually the screen was sparkling clean- so clean, in fact, it was nearly invisible in the doorway. I should also point out that real-world conditions are rarely as messy as the sticky flour mess I created. If you just need to get dust off a screen or mud off a sidewalk, this tool is a significant upgrade over a simple stream from a garden hose. Ultimately, you’re trading power for portability, and whether that works for you will depend on the job you have to tackle. If it’s only needed for routine seasonal cleaning, this pressure washer could be perfect for you.

Just don’t expect it to peel paint off a pole.

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I Thought I Wanted a Single-Family Home. Turns Out, I Missed the Rental Income

I’ve always had benchmarks for knowing when I’ve “made it” in life: a car with power windows and locks, a refrigerator with a water dispenser and owning a single-family home. The last one stems from the fact that my wife and I always owned two-family homes. We lived in one unit and rented out the other for over a decade before we finally had the means to move into a single-family home.

But the funny thing was, when we finally got there, something was missing. Our single-family home didn’t feel as rewarding as I thought it would. Ahead, I share why this long-sought-after dream house didn’t quite feel like one and how a new Massachusetts law allowed us to add the missing piece to our family’s forever home.

Finding Financial Freedom in a Two-Family Home

After 10 years of renting, my wife and I wanted to buy a home. We decided on a two-family property because we were nervous about taking on too much financially. A single-family home seemed like a luxury that was out of reach, but the rental income from a two-family home made homeownership seem feasible and financially safe. Collecting that first rent check was an amazing feeling, and it cut our mortgage payment in half. We were hooked. Being landlords wasn’t always stress-free, but regular rental income gave us so much financial freedom. 

Chasing the Single-Family Dream

Seven years later, we moved into another two-family home that better suited our growing family and kept the first one, too. We continued to work and save for another five years. As we approached 40, buying a single-family home felt like the next logical step. It was the ultimate end goal, right? So we bought a single-family fixer-upper in a nice neighborhood and started making repairs. Our kids settled into a new school district, and we made friends with the neighbors.

At first, it all felt great, but living in a single-family home wasn’t everything we’d hoped it would be. Mostly, we found we really missed the rental income we were used to in our two-family homes. It felt foolish to have a house that only took money out of our bank account without putting any back in. We didn’t want to move, and soaring home prices made buying another property out of the question. To find ways to generate income from our property, I tried renting out our in-ground pool, second garage, and backyard to dog owners. None of those ideas panned out, leaving us without a way to recreate the two-family experience we missed.

A New Law, A New Opportunity

Then, in August 2024, Massachusetts enacted a new law to encourage homeowners to build accessory dwelling units (ADUs), or in-law apartments, to ease the state’s housing shortage. These secondary, self-contained living spaces, complete with kitchens and bathrooms, can house extended family members or paying tenants.

My wife and I immediately knew this could be the solution we’d been looking for. Instead of moving to a two-family home, we could add a small apartment to our existing home. We considered our options and decided that converting a portion of our house into a one-bedroom apartment was the most cost-effective. 

We researched town and state ordinances and building codes, then applied for a building permit and submitted plans for the proposed project. Because we weren’t changing the footprint of our home, the process went very smoothly. We started the work in August and had everything completed and inspected by December 2024. We received a certificate of occupancy from the town, and our first tenant moved in on January 1, 2025.

Nearly two years later, we have absolutely no regrets about our ADU conversion project. The rental income has been a fantastic addition to our monthly budget, and we’ve had amazing tenants from the start. It has been the missing piece of our dream home and is making a more secure financial future possible for our family.

Tips for Adding an ADU: Is It Worth It?

If you’re considering adding an ADU to your home or property, here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Check state and local laws: Start by researching your town or city’s ordinances and regulations to determine whether adding an ADU is allowed.
• Assess costs versus income: Our project cost around $55,000, and we currently collect $1,725 each month, or $20,700 per year, in rent. At that rate, it will take us about two and a half years to recoup the project’s cost. For us, it was well worth the investment.
• Consult an electrician early: I was surprised by the need to upgrade our electrical panel. If you’re considering a similar project, consult an electrician early in the process to assess your current electrical capacity and determine what upgrades might be necessary.
• Plan carefully: Consider your privacy and make it a priority when planning your ADU. Do you want to see your tenant every time you walk to your car or relax in your yard? Think about how your daily life and use of your property might change once the ADU is occupied.
• Make sure you’re ready to be a landlord: My wife and I had been landlords for 15 years when we began this project. We knew what we were getting into and how to make it a positive experience. There are plenty of stories about nightmare tenants and nasty evictions, and trust me, you don’t want to end up in a situation like that, especially in your own home.

A Better Investment

While we had been happy in a two-family home, we mistakenly thought we could do better. But after moving into what was supposed to be our perfect, single-family home, we realized we had made a mistake. Our “dream” house began to feel like a financial burden that only sucked up money and never gave anything back. Staying put and adding a small apartment has given us so much more breathing room and transformed our forever home from a burden into a boon. 

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Bonfire Dos and Don’ts Every Backyard Fire Builder Should Know This Fall

DO: Make Sure It’s Legal

Notify your local fire department of your plans and ask them for guidance concerning:

• Whether you need a permit,
• The minimum distance the bonfire can be from structures,
• Fire size restrictions,
• Whether brush can be burned, and
• If there are temporary burn bans in effect due to fire danger or air pollution.

“One phone call to the fire marshal’s office takes two minutes,” says fire and home safety expert Eugene Klimaszewski. “Otherwise, the consequence of burning without a permit on a restricted day is a fine, and if it gets away from you, it’s your liability.”

DO: Choose the Right Location

Look for a flat, open spot away from fences, barns, houses, trees and ground vegetation. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommends keeping bonfires at least 25 feet from the house and other structures.

“That number isn’t arbitrary,” says Klimaszewski. “Radiant heat and drifting embers are what ignite a deck railing, a vinyl fence or the mulch bed against the house. Every ember that lands on a roof or in a gutter full of dry leaves is a coin flip. Most go out. The one that doesn’t becomes a structure fire.”

DON’T: Forget About the Smoke

Build the fire downwind of your home and close all windows and doors on the fire side, to prevent smoke from getting in.

“Even a small amount of smoke reaching an indoor smoke detector is enough to set it off,” says Klimaszewski. If you have a monitoring system, that could trigger a call to the fire department. “At best that’s an embarrassing conversation with the engine company. In towns that charge for repeat false alarms, that’s a bill on top of the embarrassment,” he says.

Pro-tip: If you have an older home, which isn’t airtight, put your alarm system on test mode or notify your monitoring company about your bonfire plans.

DON’T: Burn on Windy Days

Wind can carry embers up to a mile, which means a bonfire on a windy day can easily end with a wildfire or house fire. If your planned bonfire day turns out to be windy, reschedule it. And even if there isn’t a breeze, plan for one by clearing all debris from around the fire pit and building rocks or bricks up higher on the windy side, which protects the fire from the wind plus radiates heat toward you for extra warmth.

DO: Choose Wood Wisely

Kiln-dried wood is the best. Seasoned hardwoods like oak, cedar and hickory are particularly good because they burn cleaner, longer and hotter than soft woods like pine and aspen (though a little soft wood kindling makes starting a fire a lot easier).

Woods to avoid include:

• Alder, poplar and willow;
• Rotten, damp or moldy wood, which will create excessive smoke and popping embers;
• Driftwood, painted wood and treated wood, as the fumes are poisonous.

DON’T: Use Accelerants

Steer clear of gasoline or other accelerants, as they too often lead to burn injuries, out-of-control fires and noxious fumes. (One year, my neighbor used so much gasoline to start a bonfire that the resulting shock wave from the explosion knocked pictures off of people’s walls three blocks away).

“A lot of people think they can use gas or lighter fluid to get the fire started or revive it, but please never do that because the vapors can flash back and get everyone nearby,” says Henrichson. “Gasoline is particularly dangerous and should never be used to start or revive a fire.”

Pro-tip: If you struggling to start a fire, build up a good kindling base and use a campfire starter or small bit of tightly twisted newspaper. Ample kindling will help you get a hot coal-bed established, which will burn larger logs more effectively plus lessen smoke.

DON’T: Burn Anything Other than Wood

Avoid newspaper, cardboard and other paper products, which tend to break down into large flying embers. Also, never burn anything with adhesives, plastics and other chemicals. The health risks of this are obvious, but plastics and chemicals are hiding in many items you might not realize, including: dryer lint, food packaging with shiny ink, glossy magazines, pressed woods including butcher block, varnished furniture and clothing made with synthetic fibers.

DO: Keep Water Within Arm’s Reach

Before lighting the fire, set up a water source in case embers become a problem. That will also make it easier to put it out completely when you’re done. NFPA actually requires a hose, bucket or extinguisher be on hand for all recreational fires, and for fires to be attended at all times.

“A fire that’s left alone for ten minutes while everyone goes inside for more drinks is the one that ends up on the local news,” says Klimaszewski. “And an unattended fire that spreads is the homeowner’s liability, full stop.”

DO: Designate a Fire Supervisor

Assign someone to supervise the flames at all times to prevent the fire from getting out of control, and to keep kids and pets from standing too close. Equip the supervisor with proper protective clothing, including a fire-resistant glove, long-handled poker tool, shovel, closed-toe shoes and eye protection.

“The most common injuries I’ve seen are from people falling into the fire, and young children are vulnerable to this because they may want to play in the area where everyone is hanging out by the fire,” says Henrichson. “There should be a no-enter zone that is explained to children every single time, and the person tending the fire should not have any alcohol.”

DO: Pay Attention and Have a Plan

Watch for loose sleeves, blankets, boots and other combustibles that are too close to the fire. “Those fun marshmallow-roasting memories are great to make, but shaking a burning marshmallow can cause trouble, and if you use metal skewers, they can burn you too,” says Henrichson.

Also, know what to do beforehand if something ends up catching fire. “The old advice that we were told years ago is still true: stop, drop, and roll if your clothes catch fire,” says Henrichson. “Repeat this as necessary every time kids approach, because they don’t always know to stay back.”

DO: Put It Out Cold When You’re Done

Embers can easily reignite hours or even days later, so the best practice for putting out a bonfire is to drown it, stir the ashes, and then drown it again until everything is cold to the touch. Don’t cover embers with dirt, as that actually insulates them, leaving open the possibility for them to reignite if they’re uncovered by a stiff wind.

Pro-tip: Put ashes in a metal container with a lid, on a non-combustible surface, away from the house, garage and deck for several days before they go in the trash, says Klimaszewski. Never put them in a plastic bin or next to the house.

About the Experts

• Kevin Henrichson is a board-certified attorney and partner at Byrd Davis Alden & Henrichson, LLP, where he handles burn injury cases.
• Eugene Klimaszewski is founder and president of Mammoth Security Inc., a Connecticut fire alarm and security company which installs, inspects and monitors fire alarm systems, plus fields the false-alarm calls that come with bonfire season.
• Experts at the National Fire Protection Association also contributed to this article.

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