What To Know About Exterior Wood Stain

Imagine you’ve just finished your deck with a traditional wood sealant. The surface is glossy and waterproof, and the wood grain is beautifully visible. Fast forward a year or two. Seasonal precipitation and sunshine have left that once-beautiful finish cracked and peeling. Now you’re doomed to hours of stripping, sanding and refinishing.

Wonder if there’s a better way? Yes! Exterior wood stain.

What is Exterior Wood Stain?

Stains, unlike film-forming finishes like paint and sealants, soak into a wood surface and impart color without forming a layer that can crack and peel. While stains may not be as wear-resistant as other exterior wood finishes, they’re unique in their ease of application and relatively trouble-free maintenance.

Traditionally, exterior wood stains are composed of an oil or water base, solvents and the all-important pigments that provide color and protect the wood from UV rays.

Types of Exterior Wood Stain

Oil-Based Wood Stain

Oil-based stains have been used on decks and other outdoor structures for decades. These stains soak into wood effectively and dry slowly, making it easy to create an even, professional finish. Oil-based stains last a long time if applied correctly, and maintenance is as simple as reapplying the product. They’re also generally the most economical option.

One drawbacks of oil-based stains: They contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that evaporate into the air and can be potentially harmful to the environment and people. That’s why it’s best to apply them in a well-ventilated area (outdoors is perfect), then follow the manufacturer safety recommendations on the product container. As long as ventilation is sufficient, a respirator probably won’t be necessary; I’ve never applied a stain where the manufacturer recommended one.

Further, oil-based stains can attract mildew over time, particularly if they’re applied too thickly or in a frequently damp environment.

Water-Based Wood Stain

Water-based stains are a comparatively new technology, and they offer some specific advantages. Some water-based product manufacturers claim their stains are more resistant to UV rays than their oil-based counterparts, and therefore last longer without maintenance. However, most water-based stains I’ve used in exterior applications don’t last as long as oil-based products.

Water-based stains will not attract any microorganisms, and some even contain zinc for extra mildew and rot resistance. Application of water-based wood stains is safe (no VOCs) and cleanup requires nothing more than soap and water.

However, applying water-based exterior wood stain is more complex than exterior oil-based wood stain. Water-based products do not soak as deeply into wood and dry more quickly, so application must be done carefully to ensure an even finish.

Hybrid Wood Stain

Blends of oil- and water-based wood stains are becoming more common. Hybrid stains incorporate the durability and low VOCs of the water-based component along with the superior visual appeal and ease of application seen in oil-based products.

Choosing the Right Exterior Wood Stain for Your Project

There’s no one wood stain that’s right for every project. The product you choose will depend on the project, your experience and your personal preferences. When choosing an exterior wood stain:

• Consider how much sun the wood will receive. Recall that water-based products offer the best UV resistance.
• Note the type of wood you’re finishing. Softwoods like pine and cedar are highly absorbent, so quick-drying water-based stains can look blotchy, especially if you’re a less experienced DIYer.
• Consider climate as well. Warm, humid weather makes your project more susceptible to rot and mildew, particularly if you use an oil-based product.
• Test the product before applying it to your entire deck, fence or lawn furniture set.

Staining Tools

It’s vital to prepare any wood surface before staining. Gather all the tools you’ll need for prep and application:

Pressure Washer: You can probably get away without one for many projects, but pressure washing as a first step can significantly reduce the time you spend sanding. A pressure washer is particularly useful removing an old finish.

Power Sander: A hand-held random orbit sander will work for most projects, although you may want to invest in or rent a walk-behind unit if you’re finishing a large deck or veranda. Experts and finish manufacturers agree that 60-grit sandpaper maximizes the absorbency of the surface and durability of the finish.

Applicators: The application method depends on the size of your project and the stain you’ve chosen. Always check the stain manufacturer’s recommendations. Rollers cover large areas like a deck more efficiently than brushes. Be sure to use a synthetic-fiber roller if you’re applying a water-based acrylic stain. Sprayers, in various forms and prices, can be purchased or rented for efficient and uniform application of sprayer-compatible stains.

Maintaining Exterior Wood Stain

One of the greatest advantages of stains over film-forming finishes is the easy maintenance. Depending on wear and exposure, oil-based and water-based stains need reapplication every few years. This may seem like a lot, but stains are so easy to reapply compared to film-forming finishes that the job of sprucing them up is often a breeze.

Because stains simply wear down instead of peeling, a simple wash is often enough preparation before reapplication with a brush, roller or rag.

Film-forming finishes, included stain and sealer hybrid products, need to be stripped away with a sander when they start looking ratty, then reapplied. Even with stains, after several repeated reapplications you’ll get the best results by sanding the surface before applying a fresh coat.

Most outdoor woodworking enthusiasts I know, myself included, don’t bother with sealers on top of stains or with stain-sealer combination products due to the increased difficulty of maintenance. Outdoor woodwork is inherently rougher and less refined that its indoor counterparts. That’s why a simple application of water or oil-based stain is often more than enough to get it looking good.

Common Wood Staining Pitfalls to Avoid

• Using water-based stain on highly absorbent wood like cedar or pine, creating a blotchy appearance.
• Rushed application of stain, particularly water-based products, leading to visible brush strokes and blotches.
• Neglecting to remove the old finish and sand the surface thoroughly before applying stain.

Exterior wood stain may not make your deck, fence or lawn furniture look like the lustrous deck of a luxury yacht. But for many, it’s the best balance between protection from the elements, a beautiful appearance and trouble-free maintenance.

Article source here: What To Know About Exterior Wood Stain

These 8 Houseplants Are Worth a Lot of Money!

Valuable Houseplants

Many people stuck at home during the pandemic discovered nurturing plants can be a relaxing, rewarding pastime. And it turns out, indoor gardening may be more rewarding than anyone imagined. A new study from Money.co.uk, a price comparison website, delves into the resale value of houseplants, and some of them are worth a lot of money!

The study found eight plants in particular had high resale value on sites like Facebook Marketplace, Etsy and Ebay. Depending on the time of year, certain plants are in high demand and sell out as quickly as they’re listed.

Let’s look at the profit you could make from selling the most valuable plant bulbs, cuttings and established plants. Don’t have any of these eight plants growing in your home? What are you waiting for?

Article source here: These 8 Houseplants Are Worth a Lot of Money!

6 Best Ceiling Paints

How To Paint a Ceiling

For many, the thought of painting a ceiling is intimidating. Truth be told, painting a ceiling is not all that different from painting walls — it just requires a few tricks of the trade. And choosing the right ceiling paint is just as important as learning how to paint a ceiling.

There are several paints on the market formulated especially for ceilings. If you’re unable to find such a product, here are some properties to look for in an interior house paint that can be used on ceilings.

• Viscosity: This refers to a paint’s thickness and structure. The higher the solid count, the more it tends to cost, but the less it drips and spatters.
• Slow-drying: This helps extend the wet edge for a smoother, lap-free finish.
• Matte/flat finish: A shiny sheen reflects ambient light which can underscore flaws and defects. (Exception: Use water-resistant satin or semi-gloss finishes for wood ceilings and high-moisture areas.)
• Latex/water-based: Dribbles and sags less than most oil-based paint.
• Stain-blockers/all-in-one paint and primers: A good choice for covering watermarks or dark colors in one step.

Expert Dos and Don’ts

• Do cover the floor from baseboard-to-baseboard with a drop cloth;
• Do cut in the edge of the ceiling (at least two inches) before you roll;
• Don’t load too much paint on the roller or it will drip;
• Don’t roll paint too quickly to avoid spatters;
• Do buy the best quality paint and roller covers you can afford.

Article source here: 6 Best Ceiling Paints

OSHA Makes Key Change to COVID-19 Vaccination Reporting

Last Friday, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) announced it will no longer require employers to record instances of COVID-19 vaccination side effects among their employees.

“OSHA does not wish to have any appearance of discouraging workers from receiving COVID-19 vaccination, and also does not wish to disincentivize employers’ vaccination efforts,” read the updated OSHA guidelines. “As a result, OSHA will not enforce 29 CFR 1904’s recording requirements to require any employers to record worker side effects from COVID-19 vaccination through May 2022.”

Typically, employers are required to keep a record of all work-related cases of injury or illness in what is called an OSHA 300 Log. Workplace data that must be recorded in an OSHA 300 log include:

• A death;
• Days away from work;
• Restricted work or transfer to another job;
• Medical treatment beyond first aid;
• Loss of consciousness;
• A significant injury or illness diagnosed by a physician or other licensed health care professional.

Previous guidance from OSHA mandated that any employers who require their employees get vaccinated keep a record of any adverse reactions to the vaccine, just like they would any other illness. The announcement of the change drew praise from construction industry representatives.

“ABC is pleased with this policy change and believes it is a positive development,” said Greg Sizemore of Associated Builders and Contractors.

Chris Cain, director of safety and health for the North American Building Trades Unit, voiced his organization’s support for the change and highlighted the benefits of the decision.

“We strongly support construction workers getting vaccinated and understand the concerns raised by employers,” he said. “Recording workers who have adverse reactions as being made ill by their jobs would erroneously flag such employers as having high injury and illness rates.”

Article source here: OSHA Makes Key Change to COVID-19 Vaccination Reporting

How Often Should You Replace Your Timing Belt?

Timing belts themselves are relatively inexpensive ($10 to $50) but can easily cause thousands of dollars of damage if they break while the engine is running.

Engines come in two configurations: Interference and non-interference. When a timing belt fails the camshaft(s) stops turning and the valves stop moving, but the crankshaft still rotates for a few seconds. An interference engine has insufficient clearance between the valves and pistons. Because the crankshaft keeps rotating, pistons will slam into any valves stuck in the open position, causing catastrophic engine damage. A timing belt failure in a non-interference engine will leave you inconveniently stranded.

Timing belts are a maintenance item; they can wear out and fail without warning. Check your owner’s manual. It pays to know which kind of engine you have and the recommended replacement intervals.

What Is a Timing Belt?

A timing belt is similar to an engine drive belt, except timing belts have teeth. In many engines, timing belts have replaced metal timing chains (similar to a bicycle chain) connecting the camshaft and crankshaft gears. The camshaft and crankshaft must work in perfect harmony, called valve timing, during the four-stroke combustion cycle (intake, compression, power, exhaust).

Engines using timing chains can also be interference or non-interference engines. Timing belts are usually molded from rubber or neoprene, have strong fibers or steel running the length of the belt (similar to a tire) and produce less noise than metal timing chains. This makes them strong and durable. But they don’t last forever.

How Can You Tell a Timing Belt Needs To Be Replaced?

Consult a repair manual to see if you can easily remove the timing belt cover. A repair manual is different from an owner’s manual because it lists step-by-step repair procedures. Most auto parts stores carry vehicle repair manuals, and many lend them to their customers at no cost.

Many timing belt covers are difficult reach, making visual access to the belt impossible. If you can’t get to the cover without taking half the engine compartment apart, leave it to the pros to determine if your vehicle’s timing belt needs to be replaced.

If you can get to the belt, it should be taut, with about a 1/4-in. to 1/2-in. deflection when pressed with your thumb along its longest run between gears. It should be smooth and flat (no rounded edges), not glossy or shiny, have no chunks missing, be free of large cracks or peeling and show no signs of fraying. Small surface cracks are okay, but spider cracking on the surface signals extreme wear.

Replace the belt if any teeth are missing or contaminated by an oil or coolant leak.

How Often Should a Timing Belt Be Replaced?

There is no simple answer. First, check your owner’s manual for the recommended maintenance schedule. Some manufacturers recommend replacing the timing belt every 30,000 miles, while others suggest 120,000 miles. Several other factors should be part of the equation when considering replacing a timing belt, including:

• Engine performance I: A poor running engine could indicate a loose timing belt skewing engine valve timing.
• Engine performance II: Engine misfire from a bad spark plug wire or coil places undo stress on a timing belt, shortening its life.
• Clicking or squealing noise from the front of the engine: Missing teeth can cause a timing belt to make a clicking noise. A weak or defective timing belt tensioner or glazed idler pulley will produce high-pitched squealing, rattling or squeaking noises.
• Driving conditions: Lots of city stop-and-go driving, heavy acceleration and extreme temperatures place additional stress on timing belts.
• Common sense: If you buy a used car with more than 50,000 miles and the seller cannot show proof the timing belt was ever replaced.

How Much Does DIY Timing Belt Replacement Cost?

Timing belt replacement should be left to the pros. It can be complicated to replace the timing belt on most engines, especially those with dual camshafts or lots of drive accessories that need to be removed.

In many cases, special tools are needed to correctly install a timing belt. Plus, other parts may need replacing. Timing gear indexing (precisely aligning the camshaft gears and crankshaft gear to the manufacturers specs) is critical. Even if one gear is one tooth “off” engine, valve timing will be out of sync, damaging your engine or causing it to run rough.

However, if you insist on replacing a timing belt yourself:

• Review a repair manual before starting and keep it handy.
• Ensure you have the correct tools, including any specialty tools needed to adjust the belt tension to eliminate belt deflection.
• Set aside an entire day.
• Plan to replace the drive belts ($25 to $75), change the motor oil and filter ($15 to $50) and, if replacing the water pump, flushing the cooling system ($10 to $45).

It pays to buy a timing belt kit rather than the individual items. Depending on the specific make and model, a typical timing belt kit ($100 to $500) includes a timing belt, timing belt tensioner, idler gears or pulleys, water pump, gaskets, O-rings and seals and other hardware.

Whether you or your mechanic replaces the timing belt, it’s always a good idea to replace these other components at the same time.

How Much Does Professional Timing Belt Replacement Cost?

The price the pros charge to replace a timing belt ($350 to $1,500) varies depending on the engine, make, model and year. It also matters whether an independent repair shop or dealer’s service department makes the repair.

Article source here: How Often Should You Replace Your Timing Belt?

How To Build a Swing-Out Countertop

Most workshops just don’t have enough horizontal work space. Sometimes the fix is as simple as adding another bench or table. But in a garage, cars take up all the floor space.

This swing-out butcher block counter is a great solution. It pivots from under your current countertop, giving you more space when you need it. You’ll have to modify cabinets, which is easy if you’re installing new cabinets. For existing cabinets, you’ll have to remove them first.

Secret Cabinet

This hidden door hides a small storage space that you access with a magnetic latch.

Article source here: How To Build a Swing-Out Countertop

How To Make a DIY BBQ Grill

Prepare a clear area for the BBQ

• Find an area of level ground about five to six feet in circumference. (The fire is much smaller than that, but you’ll want room to sit by it and move around while you cook.)
• Pick a spot that’s sheltered from the wind.
• Make sure there are no low-hanging tree branches or foliage near the area where you’ll build the fire.
• Sweep away any leaves or other debris.

Article source here: How To Make a DIY BBQ Grill

8 Bad Measuring Habits You Should Drop

Taking accurate measurements is a fundamental skill every woodworker or DIYer, whether amateur and professional, must master. Success in almost every other skill is dependent on this core proficiency.

Unfortunately, there are some common bad habits you may unconsciously develop that can lead to poor measurements and bad cuts. That means wasted time, wasted money and a whole lot of frustration!

Here are some of the most common bad measuring habits and how you can break them.

Bending the Tape for Inside-to-Inside Measurements

Inside-to-inside dimensions (like the inside of a window frame) can be challenging to accurately measure. The habit of bending the tape measure into the corner and “eyeballing” the measurement can lead to inaccuracies.

Instead, incorporate the width of the tape measure’s base into your measurement. Many tape measures have their base’s width printed on them, with three inches being the most common. Instead of rolling the tape into the corner, get into the habit of adding the width of the tape measure’s base to the measurement instead.

Trusting Factory Edges

Too many woodworkers assume the end of the board they’re cutting (AKA the factory edge) is perfectly square. Consequently, they measure for cuts without verifying that’s actually the case. Depending on the width of the lumber and how out of square the end is, measuring off the edge can lead to inaccurate measurements.

Correct this by routinely checking the factory edge with your speed square. If the edge is out of square, use a miter saw or circular saw to cut a square edge prior to measuring. Although this extra step isn’t essential for many rough-framing tasks, it can make a big difference in making precise measurements for finish carpentry projects.

Trusting a Tape Measure’s Hook

Using your tape measure before inspecting its metal hook can cause you to inadvertently take inaccurate measurements. A tape measure’s metal hook is naturally loose by about 1/16th of an inch. They’re designed this way to obtain accurate measurements regardless of whether it’s hooked onto or butted up against the material being measured. Unfortunately, this also makes it susceptible to damage, which can make it less accurate.

Get in the habit of inspecting the hook prior to use. Alternatively, consider “burning an inch” to skip the hook entirely. To do this, use the one-inch mark as the “0” point instead of the hook and add one inch to the final measurement.

Not Writing Measurements Down

Routinely attempting to memorize measurements instead of writing them down can waste a great deal of time and perfectly good lumber. Forgetting your measurements will force you to repeat them, and misremembering can result in a bad cut.

Consider placing a sticky note on the back of your tape measure to remind you to write down your measurements. You may also want to keep a small notebook in your toolbelt or pocket to make writing down your measurements easy and convenient. Or just grab the nearest piece of scrap wood. Another option is to point at the correct measurement and snap a picture.

Marking Measurements With a Straight Line

Although not technically a poor measurement habit, marking your measurements with a single straight line can skew the accuracy. After all, a measurement used for cutting is only as good as the mark the cut is made on. Replace your straight lines with a “V” mark instead, with the point being your mark location. This is called a “crow’s foot,” and is standard marking practice among professional carpenters.

Using a Dull Pencil

Again: Your measurements are only as good as the marks the cuts are made on. Habitually using a dull pencil can result in a mark that’s too wide for the fine measurement tasks of finish carpentry. This is especially true when using a carpentry pencil, but can also apply to standard pencils. To correct this, sharpen your pencil before you start any measuring and several times throughout the day. Or, stick with the mechanical version.

Holding the Tape Too Loose and Crooked

Holding a tape measure taut and straight against the surface you’re measuring is imperative for obtaining accurate measurements. Without realizing it, you may be holding the tape at a slight angle, or with some slack in the tape that could impair accuracy.

Only Measuring Once

The old adage “measure twice; cut once” may seem obvious, but only measuring once before a cut is one of the worst (and most common) habits contributing to inaccurate measurements. Make this your motto and watch your success in measuring accurately soar. As a sacrosanct principle among carpenters, measuring twice should be seen as the bare minimum.

Article source here: 8 Bad Measuring Habits You Should Drop

12 Things Real Estate Agents Avoid in Their Own Homes

Barn Doors on Bathrooms

“Country chic has its place,” says Rob South, an agent with RE/MAX Real Estate in Lansing, Michigan. “But barn doors need to stay on the barn.

“These plank-board slabs are hung from a pair of pulleys an inch or more off the wall. Because of that, they have a gap all the way around that can’t fully be closed. So they are pretty bad at providing some of the basic functions of an actual door, like privacy. Put one on your bathroom and everyone in the home will know your business.”

Article source here: 12 Things Real Estate Agents Avoid in Their Own Homes

A Guide To Evaporative Coolers

Evaporative coolers — commonly known as “swamp coolers” but also called evaporative air conditioners, desert coolers, wet air coolers and even swamp boxes — have been around in their modern form since the 1930s. But the basic concept can be traced to the ancient Egyptians, who discovered hot, dry breezes could be made pleasantly cool and moist when blown through damp reed mats, or past porous clay pots filled with water.

“Installing an evaporative cooler is a great way to keep indoor air fresh and cool, especially with the windows open,” says Scott Jenschke, an air circulation and accessories merchant for The Home Depot. Here’s what you need to know if you are considering this type of cooler for your home.

What Is an Evaporative Cooler?

An evaporative cooler uses an electric-powered fan to draw hot, dry air through a dampened pad and blow the cooled air out into the room. This relatively simple process consumes much less energy than a standard air conditioner and doesn’t require ozone-damaging refrigerants to work. Evaporative coolers are also less expensive to install and maintain than central air conditioning.

How do evaporative coolers work?

Jenschke explains evaporative coolers utilize evaporation to cool air temperature. “The liquid turns into gas when water evaporates, releasing the highest energy particles and causing the temperature to drop,” he says. “This is why your forehead feels cooler after you put a moist cloth on it on a hot day.” This same scientific principle can be applied to the evaporative cooling process for the air inside your home.

Evaporative coolers are made up of four essential parts: a fan, a water tank, filter pads (sometimes called media) and an internal motor. The motor pulls warm air through a wet internal filter pad, where the evaporation process quickly lowers its temperature before it is circulated back into the room. The internal pads also act as a filter, removing dust and allergens from the air.

“Evaporative coolers work best in arid climates, where you can see as much as a 30 degree reduction in temperature,” says Jenschke. “In less arid climates, they’re not as effective, but can still cool the surrounding air by five to 15 degrees.” Jenschke also recommends opening nearby windows to help renew the air and keep the breeze fresh.

How Is an Evaporative Cooler Different From an A/C Unit?

Evaporative coolers and A/C units work with different technologies.

“Air conditioners use chemical refrigerants in tubes and coils to remove hot air from your home and leave behind drier, cooler air,” Jenschke says. “In many situations, an air conditioner is connected to the outdoors because the tubes and coils absorb heat from indoors and release it outdoors. You can feel warm air coming from an air conditioner outside for this reason.”

Evaporative coolers, on the other hand, harness the power of evaporation to cool the air naturally. “The evaporative cooler is a more sustainable option as it uses one-fourth of the energy and costs about half as much to install than an air conditioner,” says Jenschke. “It also doesn’t require ductwork to move the cooler air throughout the house like a central air conditioning unit does.”

What Are the Different Types of Evaporative Coolers?

There are four main types:

1. Lightweight and easy to move around, portable coolers are best for cooling a single room, outdoor patio spaces, garages or even sports field sidelines. Larger models can cool spaces from 500 to up to 3,000 square feet, according to Jenschke.

2. Indoor evaporative coolers designed to fit a window or wall opening are ideal for cooling a single room, garage or open-plan living space.

3. Outdoor evaporative coolers called down discharge (or down draft) coolers are designed to be installed on the roof and can cool an entire home.

4. Side discharge (or side draft) coolers are designed to cool the whole house. They are typically installed on the side of a building, although some models can also be installed on the roof.

How Much Do Evaporative Coolers Cost?

Evaporative coolers can cost less than $100 for small portable models to around $1,500 for down or side discharge models powerful enough to cool an entire home. “Some municipalities offer rebates of up to $250 for the purchase of a whole-house unit through your utility provider,” Jenschke says.

What Size Evaporative Cooler Should I Buy?

To figure out how large an evaporative cooler you need, check the cubic feet per minute (CFM) rating. This is the cubic feet per minute the unit can cool. Calculate the minimum CFM you need by determining the cubic feet of space you want to cool (length in feet x width in feet x height in feet = cubic feet) and multiply that total by the number of times you want the air to turn over in an hour.

The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) suggests from five to nine air changes an hour for residential rooms. Then divide that total by 60 (minutes). The result tells you the CFM rating you need. Some models also list a square foot rating, which is less precise but still helpful when choosing the right cooler for your space.

Evaporative Cooler Accessories

Evaporative coolers generally come with all their necessary parts except possibly the motor (see below), but you’ll need to purchase replacement pads over time. You can buy these and other accessories from the same supplier from whom you purchased your cooler, or online stores like The Home Depot or Amazon.

• Fiber pads: “These pads are made from shredded Aspen fibers woven together and come in two thicknesses, one inch and two inches,” Jenschke says. “The thicker the pad, the more moisture it can hold, which improves cooling.” Fiber pads deteriorate over time and need to be changed annually.

• Synthetic pads: Synthetic pads last longer than fiber but don’t retain as much moisture, reducing their effectiveness.

• Brand-compatible pads: Some brands use custom pads, including the popular Mastercool line. Their type of pad is made from a sturdy honeycomb-shaped cardboard. It offers the best cooling ability and can last up to five years with proper care.

• Evaporative cooler covers: These protect outdoor evaporative cooler units from the elements when not in use.

• Motors: Some large down- or side-discharge units are sold separately from the motor. Most can accommodate a one-half, three-quarters or one horsepower motor, based on your cooling needs.

Article source here: A Guide To Evaporative Coolers

What To Know About Carpet Cleaning

Carpet has many advantages: It’s soft underfoot, comfy to sit on and helps absorb sound, to name a few. But the fibers are dirt magnets, and spills and splatters can definitely leave a permanent mark. Consequently, proper carpet cleaning helps prolong the life of your carpet (ground-in dirt can wear down the fibers) by keeping it looking, smelling and feeling its freshest.

“Cleaning your carpet plays a big role in the appearance and smell of your home and is essential to prevent the growth of bacteria, mold and fungi,” says Lauren Bowen, director of franchise operations for Two Maids & A Mop.

“A dirty carpet can hold on to odors and create an unpleasant stench throughout the entire room. Carpet fibers can host termites, other small bugs and allergens, so failing to keep them clean can cause a health hazard for the residents of your home.”

Homeowners have several options for carpet cleaning. A little bit of knowledge can help you get the job done right.

How Often Does Carpet Need to Be Cleaned?

In most cases, carpet cleaning should be done annually. How do you know it’s time for a cleaning? A dingy, matted appearance, odors, or a texture that feels a little icky are all signs your carpet is due for cleaning.

“Most carpets should be professionally cleaned at least once a year, and if you have pets or small children, the frequency usually increases due to the higher risk of messes and wear and tear,” Bowen says.

Moving into a new home or putting your home on the market are also good times to clean carpets. But tackle any stains and spills as they happen.

“The longer you wait, the more the stain has a chance to set,” Bowen says. “Letting the stain dry may be your first thought, but it will actually allow the stain to set and permanently damage your carpet.”

What Are My Carpet Cleaning Options?

Budget and time will influence which option you choose.

Hire a professional

Some professional carpet cleaning companies use hot water extraction for a thorough, deep clean. Their equipment is more powerful than any available to consumers. While relying on pros certainly frees up your time, it is the most expensive option; companies typically charge around $50 per room. This price will vary based on your local market, and space considerations like stairs and square footage.

Professionals also offer premium services that help tune up your carpet. “A professional carpet cleaner can also re-apply soil and stain protectants to help avoid future carpet stains,”  says Empire Today Senior Vice President of Marketing Gina Cielocha. “This makes maintenance easier, as well as providing you with additional peace of mind about your carpet’s longevity.”

Rent a machine

Your other option is to rent a carpet cleaning machine, available at many grocery and hardware stores and big box home improvement retailers. Renting a machine is more affordable than hiring a pro. A one-day rental typically costs around $30, plus the cost of any cleaning solutions, which run around $15 to $25.

The typical rental machine will not offer the powerful hot-water extraction of professional equipment. But it remains a good option if your carpets are not deeply soiled or if you just need to clean a few spots.

Buy a machine

You can also purchase a carpet cleaning machine. Some are upright machines, similar to a vacuum cleaner; others are more compact and handheld. Consider purchasing a carpet cleaning machine if you like to frequently refresh your carpets between deep cleans, or have pets and kids prone to messes. You will save money in the long run.

Do it by hand

It’s also possible to clean your carpet without a machine. Scrubbing and cleaning carpet by hand is time-intensive. But it’s a good option if you can’t get a rental or schedule a professional cleaning and don’t want to buy a machine.

How To Build Time Between Cleans

Help that freshly cleaned carpet last with a few tricks that keep it clean longer:

• Remove shoes at the door. No exceptions. “Beyond tracking dirt in, your shoes can cause wear and tear to your carpet’s material, so a no-shoe rule will keep your carpet clean and will extend its life,” Bowen says.
• Keep up with vacuuming. “Vacuum twice a week to get rid of surface dirt before it has a chance to become embedded,” says Rodney Lynch, associate instructor with Rainbow International, a Neighborly company. “A vacuum cleaner with strong suction and a HEPA filter removes the most dirt and prevents blowing it back into the room.”
• Change your HVAC filter. Yet another reason to keep up with this simple maintenance task. “By regularly changing out your HVAC filter, you ensure that these particles are caught through the filter and don’t end up settling on your carpet,” says Bowen.
• Treat stains when they happen. Lynch recommends looking for the Carpet and Rug Institute Certified Seal of Approval carpet-cleaning products, which have been lab tested by the Institute’s experts. Before treating a stain, read all the product’s instructions and spot-test it in an inconspicuous area. Then apply a small amount (more is not better, says Lynch) to a white cloth and work in the treatment gently. Blot the stain, don’t scrub and work from the edge to the center. You may need to repeat the process to remove the stain. Once the spot is gone, Lynch recommends blotting the area one more time with clean water to wash away any lingering cleaner.

Article source here: What To Know About Carpet Cleaning

How To Get Rid of Dandelions in Your Lawn

A dandelion‘s bright yellow flowers are certainly iconic, but the jagged fang-like leaves are what inspired its whimsical name, which comes from a French word meaning “lion’s tooth.” Learn your best bets for getting rid of dandelions in your yard.

What Is a Dandelion?

A dandelion is a wild broadleaf perennial herb found in all 50 states and southern Canada, as well as more than 60 other countries. In early spring, it produces yellow flowers. After that, their heads dry up and parachute-like seeds develop. These seeds are easily dispersed by the wind (and children!).

Are Dandelions a Weed?

“When growing in a pristine, well-kept lawn, a dandelion can be considered a weed,” says Dave Holmes of  The Grounds Guys. Keep in mind a weed is defined by Merriam-Webster as “a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth.” However, dandelions do have redeeming qualities.

Are Dandelions Good for Lawns?

“Believe it or not, the answer is yes,” Holmes said. Dandelions’ robust root systems, which can be up to three feet long, can actually loosen compacted soil. That aerates and allows water and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the ground.

Dandelions also draw in nutrients from the soil and return them to neighboring plants. Finally, they can reduce erosion by holding the soil in place.

Too many dandelions, however, can rob your lawn of the water and nutrients it needs to thrive. The trick is to maintain a sustainable balance and keep dandelion numbers in check with an effective management strategy.

Can You Eat Dandelions?

Again, the answer is yes! Dandelions have long been used for food, the flowers fermented for wine and various parts harvested for medicinal purposes.

“Dandelions have low toxicity and are likely safe for most people to eat,” says Holmes. “Yellow dandelion flower petals and greens can be eaten cooked or raw and serve as an excellent source of vitamins A, C and K.

“They also contain vitamin E, folate and small amounts of other B vitamins, iron, calcium, magnesium and potassium. They are a rich source of beta-carotene and polyphenolic compounds, both of which have strong antioxidant abilities that can prevent aging and certain diseases.”

Holmes adds dandelions can cause allergic reactions in some and may interact negatively with certain medications, particularly diuretics and antibiotics. Check with your doctor before ingesting. And never eat plants that have been treated with chemical fertilizers or herbicides.

When Do Dandelions Grow in Lawns?

Although dandelions are some of the first flowers to pop up in spring when the soil temperature warms above 50 F, the flower and seed heads can be spotted most of the year, typically in soil temperatures around 75 F. However, the plants go dormant in winter.

“Though the above-ground plant may disappear, the taproot will continue to survive and produce new shoots come spring,” says Drew Wagner of Sod Solutions.

Is It Bad To Pull Dandelions?

“It may be tempting to pull dandelions out of your lawn,” Holmes says, “but you are taking away the benefits they bring to the soil and surrounding plants.” In addition, dandelion flowers are an essential source of food for bees and other pollinators. So eradicating too many of these nectar-rich flowers can have long-term negative consequences for the environment.

What Are the Best Ways To Kill Dandelions?

When you have too many dandelions, or some growing where you don’t want them, these are your options.

Pull dandelions by hand

If the problem is isolated to a few individual plants, these tips from Wagner can help.

• Pull dandelions when they are still in flower, before they develop seed heads.

• Water your lawn or wait until after a heavy rain, so the soil is damp and the dandelions will be easier to pull out.

• Use a weeding tool or pointed garden trowel to help loosen the tap root in the soil, then gently pull the plant out. “If done correctly, the tap root should pull up from the soil with little tension, letting you know that you’re not breaking it,” Wagner says.

• Carefully pour a natural herbicide or vinegar into the hole to kill any remaining portion of the taproot. These solutions will kill surrounding grass or nearby plants, so be precise.

• Fill the hole with soil and top with turfgrass seeds, or wait to see if runners from the surrounding turfgrass plants naturally fill in the bald spot.

Pull dandelions with a weed puller

Using special dandelion pullers is a natural, selective method that can be quicker than hand-pulling and easier on your back.

• Use when soil is damp, so taproots come up easily.

• Position the serrated claws of the dandelion puller over the head of the flower and step down onto the foot platform to drive the tool into the ground. Pull back, letting the claws close around the plant and its taproot. Then pull it out of the ground.

• Dandelion pullers generally leave a much smaller hole in the ground than hand pulling, so use extra care if you decide to pour herbicide or vinegar into the hole.

• No need to fill the small hole with soil. The surrounding turfgrass will soon cover the area.

Apply chemical weed killer to dandelions

Lots of dandelions? Chemical control may be your best bet, Wagner says. Although these products are effective against dandelions and other broadleaf weeds — results can often be seen in just hours — they contain toxic chemicals that are harmful to humans and wildlife, as well as other plants. Chemical weed killers will eradicate your dandelions completely, so you’ll lose any benefits a manageable amount of plants would provide.

• “If you decide to use a chemical to stop your dandelion problem,” Wagner says, “make sure you read the label carefully to ensure that it will not cause any damage to your lawn and is compatible with your grass type.”

• Chemical weed killers should be applied when the plants are young and the soil is moist enough for the toxins to penetrate.

• If your dandelions are already blooming, opt for a post-emergent broadleaf herbicide. “Most broadleaf herbicides contain 2,4-D and/or Dicamba,” Holmes says. “These two products work great when used properly but can create problems if used incorrectly, especially near sensitive plants.”

Apply natural weed killer to dandelions

There are no selective organic herbicides on the market. If you choose a natural weed killer, you have to treat each weed individually or risk harming your turfgrass and nearby plants. You can also make a DIY natural weed killer, or simply use boiling water.

• Like chemical weed killers, natural herbicides should be applied on young dandelions and moist soil.

• Spray individual plants, taking care to avoid the surrounding grass and nearby plants.

• Once the plant has withered, loosen the soil around it with a hand trowel if needed and pull to remove the taproot.

Holmes suggests another non-toxic alternative. “You can also apply iron (Fe) to control dandelions, which works through iron oxidation, which causes plant necrosis that ultimately kills the weed,” he says. “This will not negatively affect the grass, and may actually have a positive effect on your lawn by turning the grass a darker shade of green.”

How To Prevent Dandelions From Coming Back

Getting rid of your dandelion plants is only half the battle. They will come back if the entire root system isn’t removed or killed. And because you’re dealing with a perennial, you can expect the same plants to pop up year after year until you use the correct lawn management strategy. Experts recommend this three-point dandelion-prevention strategy:

Fertilize

Fertilize your grass every six to eight weeks during the growing season. “Applying the right amount of nitrogen required by the grass type you have is important,” Holmes says. “A good fertility program will help grow a dense lawn that will create competition and crowd out weeds wanting to grow in the lawn.”

Mow High

This helps shade off the soil and keep weeds from germinating. “Mowing high also helps to develop a thicker and denser stand of grass that will crowd out any weeds trying to invade the lawn,” Holmes says.

Control Before Seeding

Don’t give those flowing white seed puffs the chance to take flight and land on your lawn, where they’ll germinate. “Controlling prior to the seed head stage will help to keep the dandelion population in a lawn minimal,” Holmes says.

Use corn gluten as a chemical-free pre-emergent herbicide before weed seeds germinate. Apply twenty pounds of corn gluten per 1,000 square feet of lawn, then lightly water it to aid absorption. Corn gluten will kill dandelion seeds and others as well, so use with caution. As an alternative, Wagner recommends a general broadleaf pre-emergent herbicide to stop germinating weed seeds before they start.

Article source here: How To Get Rid of Dandelions in Your Lawn

Next Generation Grills

Humans have been grilling food since the domestication of fire. This outdoor ritual eventually went indoors, evolving into the ease and predictability of the modern kitchen. Cooking went outdoors again with the post-war boom that brought us the “Weber” style charcoal grill. Today, there’s a renaissance of grilling, with grills becoming extensions of our kitchens.

Are you considering a new grill and want to get the most out of it? Knowing how your grill works is the foundation for great food. So in this article, you’ll learn about the operation and cooking characteristics of three popular grill types from a few modern grilling masters.

The Pellet Grill

A Smoking Oven

Pellet grills/smokers resulted from the 1973 oil crisis, as we searched for alternative fuel sources for furnaces. Joe Traeger figured out how to use compressed sawdust pellets to fuel a grill. Traeger held the patent on this grill until 2006. Then mass production brought a wave of innovation, transforming them into sophisticated appliances.

His original design shines through in today’s pellet grills. The pellets go in a hopper, where a motorized auger delivers them to a fire pot with an electric heating element. A fan then aids combustion and circulates the hot air.

Most modern pellet grills employ digital automation for app-based control. A thermostat in the cooking chamber automates the fan and auger operation. You can program your grill to cook at a specific temperature for a determined length of time. Some grills integrate leave-in meat probes to hold a temperature once the food reaches a set point.

“I think finally we’re at the point where the grill is an appliance and people aren’t going to just go get that poorly made $200 grill that happened to be at the corner hardware store. They want something that’s going to last and yields consistent results year-round.”

Diva Q

Traeger pellet grills are highly regarded and the choice of many celebrated outdoor chefs. Diva Q is one of those chefs, and I caught up with her to find out what makes her such a devotee.

“When I first started in competitive barbecue, lots of guys were put off by a woman with a pellet grill,” she says. “But once I proved myself, those same guys are now asking advice on how to use the pellet grill, wishing they’d listened when I said, ‘You know I’m working smarter, not harder, right?’ ”

For Diva Q, her pellet grill yields the “most consistent results with the easiest learning curve,” opening the door for grilling newbies and enabling veterans to experiment. While the new app-controlled pellet grills are easy to use, there are some essentials to learn.

“One of the key things is, not all pellets are created equal,” she says, adding the compression rate, moisture content and sourcing of the wood all play key parts in a quality pellet. Softwood is not great and is usually what’s in cheap pellets. All-natural hardwood gives the best fire and flavor. The flavor profiles of apple, cherry, hickory, and oak are all different.

Diva Q feels it’s best to establish a base flavor that’s softer, then mix in a harder one like mesquite. Also, the hotter a pellet grill gets, the less smoke it produces. This is good for baking and high-temperature dishes that don’t need smoke. But at temps less than 250 F, she says “they produce all kinds of beautiful mild smoke that brings that great flavor to the food.”

Most pellet grills don’t sear a steak as well as a gas or charcoal grill. But Diva Q says she’s learned a lot about the science of grilling, and she now knows that caramelization for the desired char from searing still happens with low, indirect heat. With a pellet grill, you can still get what’s called the “Maillard reaction,” which gives browned food its singular flavor, but not with the same high-heat char like on a direct heat charcoal or gas grill.

Diva Q says she can smell when the sugars are changing with low heat, and she doesn’t really need an app to cook. She will use the Traeger app if she leaves the grill unattended. She says the real benefit of the app is its library of recipes. They designate timing, temperature and serving size, all enabling anyone to execute exceptional grilled food.

Meet the Expert:

Diva Q lives, breathes, and eats barbecue all over the world. She has starred in countless barbecue competitions and can be found teaching, judging and tasting anywhere barbecue is served.

Kamado Grill

The Clay Pot Cooker

Other than the lid, a kamado grill has two moving parts: the lower draft door, and the top control or chimney cap. Chef Eric (you’ll meet him in a second) sees the draft door as a heat pump, sucking in ambient air to create convection. Closing that draft door is like putting on the brakes; this is where you execute big temperature changes.

The chimney cap regulates smaller changes in temperature. The cooking grate sits on the fire ring above the firebox, also ceramic. An optional heat deflector aids indirect cooking. All these ceramic components retain temperature for an even distribution of heat.

“It’s a primal way to cook, which is a beautiful thing these days. You’re in the moment, you’re interacting with the charcoal, you’re building that fire, you’re present. It’s about mindfulness and, hopefully, not thinking about your cell phone.”

Chef Eric

These grills have been around for thousands of years, but only since World War II has the Japanese kamado been grilling deliciousness in the United States. The kamado grill’s ceramic outer shell and inner parts retain heat far better than a steel grill. This results in a slower, more efficient and controlled burn.

Their popularity coincided with the rise of “foodie” culture, and they’re now available at most home centers and hardware stores. I spoke with kamado guru “Chef Eric” Gephart to glean some knowledge about this archaeologic treasure of a grill.

Many say a kamado heats up slower than other charcoal or gas grills. Chef Eric says that if you have quality lump charcoal and the right approach, you’ll have a usable fire in 10 to 15 minutes. Once you have flame, close the lid and adjust the draft door and control cap to find your desired temp.

This is a crucial point of control with a kamado. If you leave that cap and draft door open too long, the draft will stoke the coals and the temp can quickly climb as high as 750 F. A kamado is so efficient at holding heat that it’s difficult to drop temperature quickly. If you want a slow, low-temp cook, increase the temperature gradually.

The upside of the kamado’s quick flash heat is that you can slow-smoke food and then finish it with a quick sear by opening up both vents and even the lid for immediate, high heat.

The most popular kamado grills are 18 to 22 inches in diameter, but they come as large as 42 inches. Chef Eric said all grill sizes perform the same way. The only difference is what he calls “grill estate.” The more grill space you have, the greater the options for different cook zones, or “heat signatures,” as he referred to them.

Banking the charcoal to one side creates separate areas of direct and indirect heat, allowing you to cook different foods simultaneously. Larger grills often have secondary grates or racks for even more “grill estate.” Combine this with a rotisserie or other accessories and “you can have a culinary jungle gym,” says Chef Eric.

Chef Eric sees more and more culinary aspirants drawn to kamado grills. Chef Eric has used a kamado grill to execute everything from Bretagne-style apple cake to triple cream beer bratwurst and, yes, of course, some serious barbecue brisket.

Meet the Expert:

Chef Eric Gephart is the “Live Fire Culinary Expert” at Kamado Joe. He has taken his high-performance grilling adventures around the world, spreading his passion for food, sustainability and mindfulness to everyone he meets.

Gravity-Fed Charcoal

More Than Just Gravity

The basic design of gravity-fed charcoal cookers is simple: A tall charcoal hopper sits to one side of the cooker, gravity-feeding fuel into the firebox. An air inlet in the firebox regulates oxygen. Heat and smoke from the firebox flow through a transfer chute and hit the heat baffle that’s centered below the cooking zone.

Above the heat baffle sits a grease shield or drip pan with a cleanout tray. The cook chamber has a cooking grate directly over the heat baffle and two or more cooking racks above it. At the top of the chamber, a chimney vents heat and smoke from the firebox up around the cooking zone. There’s typically an ash cleanout below the fire grate.

“The design of this grill allows both the novice and the seasoned grill chef to execute more creative and adventurous recipes because their focus is on the food, not the flame.”

Daniel Mercer

Gravity-fed charcoal smokers came on the competitive barbecue scene in the 1990s. Their self-feeding mechanism put an end to staying up all night stoking smokers. Initially, these were custom DIY builds, made by a handful of boutique manufacturers. But their popularity quickly put them into the home consumer market.

Until recently, most gravity-fed units were for serious barbecue enthusiasts with big budgets. But design innovations have made these units more user-friendly and affordable. Adam Carter and Daniel Mercer from Masterbuilt have taken gravity-fed charcoal to a new level of “set it and forget it” with automation technology, bringing capabilities not previously seen on this grill type.

A fan stoking the firebox automatically adjusts to maintain temperature. It’s linked to your phone, so you can monitor your grill remotely. This adds convenience and pinpoint temperature control but also means fast temperature change — up to 700 F within 15 minutes. No fussing with fuel or airflow dampers. With this temperature control, you can sear a steak just as easily as slow-cook a rack of ribs.

Does all this convenience remove the art and craft from grilling? “The creativity with this grill comes in how you layer wood chips in with your fuel, or use the fast temperature control to cook several different things for a meal,” Daniel says. The ability to use technology to dial in that delicious charcoal flavor without tending a fire removes the barrier to having a great grilling experience every time.

Meet the Experts:

Daniel Mercer (left) and Adam Carter are the masterminds behind Masterbuilt’s gravity-fed charcoal grills. Their passion for engineering is as strong as their appetite for good Southern barbecue.

Article source here: Next Generation Grills