A Guide to Repairing and Maintaining Weather Stripping on Your Car

Weather stripping on our cars is an unsung hero. We rarely notice it, but if we didn’t have it, driving around would be a noisy, wet and miserable experience.

“Weather stripping, like the spare tire, or sway bar links, are totally ignored until they go bad or are damaged,” says master technician, author and instructor Bob Lacivita. “But they are important to your driving experience, comfort and health.”

Weather strip on cars (aka gasket) is apt to get damaged if it freezes to the door frame or glass, then tears when you open the door or trunk. Ultraviolet rays from the sun can also break down, or dry rot, the rubber, causing it to leak, lose shape or get folded.

“Although weather stripping is resilient, normal wear and tear, such as dragging your feet getting into and out of your car, or moving items in and out of the trunk, can quickly damage the rubber seal,” says Lacivita.

If that happens, it’s usually a DIY job, but you might want to call a pro if:

• It’s glued in (vs. held in with clips, channel or friction), in which case cleaning the channel the stripping sits in can be frustrating and time-consuming;
• There is tricky interior trim to take off, which you’re worried about breaking;
• The strip being replaced is specific to your vehicle, and the part is difficult to locate.

What Is Car Weather Stripping and What Does It Do?

Car weather stripping is the rubbery lining that seals the gaps between the vehicle body and the doors, windows, trunk, hood and windshield. Weather stripping on a car serves various purposes:

• Keeps out rain, snow, air and critters
• Helps prevent interior mold and mildew
• Helps maintain air quality
• Insulates passengers from hot and cold outside temperatures
• Protects vehicle from damage
• Enhances driving comfort
• Maintains vehicle appearance and resale value

“To test weather stripping fit, place a dollar bill between the weather strip and the part being sealed,” says Lacivita. “Feeling resistance when pulling the bill out signifies a good seal.”

If you suspect you have a weather stripping issue, here’s how to repair, replace and maintain weather stripping on a car.

When to Replace Weather Stripping

If you see dry rot or chunks missing, it’s time to replace your weather stripping. Also, if you have wind noise or water leaking near the door frames, check them for damage.

“It does get damaged by dry rot, or exposure to the heat of the sun and the cold of the winter,” says Thomas Patterson, Director of New Product Development and Technical Training at Glass Doctor. “Expanding and contracting causes fatigue in the EPDM [rubber] and causes it to loosen.”

How to Repair Weather Stripping on a Car

Tools

• Flathead screwdriver
• 90-degree picks (to clean out channel retainer tracks)
• Sandpaper
• Clean, dust free rags
• Microfiber towels
• Utility knife (optional)

Materials

• Replacement weather stripping
• Adhesive remover
• Weather strip adhesive
• Silicone spray
• Silicone gel (optional)
• Low adhesion paper tape or clamps (optional)
• Foam backer rod (optional, for repairs)

Time: 20 minutes to several hours

Cost: varies

Complexity: beginner

Step 1: Assess the damage

If you only have small tears or cuts, you can probably patch those with weather strip adhesive (be careful, it’s really sticky). Make sure to promptly wipe off any excess glue using a cloth and solvent-based liquid cleaner.

Similarly, if your weather strip is just falling or popping out a little, use a few drops of weather strip adhesive to hold it in place.

If your weather strip has lost shape or gotten folded over, you may also be able to repair it by cutting a small opening with a utility knife and inserting a piece of foam backer rod (lubricate it with silicone first). Use a metal rod or coat hanger to push it in.

Step 2: Remove the old strip

If you can’t repair your weather stripping, you’ll need to replace it.

• Gently peel the old weather stripping from the door or opening.
• Be careful to avoid damaging the paint.

Step 3: Clean the area

• Spray the area where the old weather stripping was with an adhesive remover.
• Use the cloth and picks to wipe away adhesive residue and other debris. “The channel or mounting surface must be absolutely spotless of any glue, residue or old weather stripping,” says Lacivita.
• Let all areas dry completely.

Step 4: Apply new adhesive

• Test (or dry fit) the weather stripping to ensure it fits into the area and matches the original strip’s size and shape. If it doesn’t, trim it accordingly.
• If your new weather stripping doesn’t come with a pre-coated adhesive attached, apply a thin and even strip of adhesive to the vehicle surface where the new strip will be attached.
• Adhere to any manufacturer instructions for adhesive application and drying recommendations.

Pro-tip: “I recommend 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive,” says Lacivita. “I am not a fan of 3M Yellow Weather Strip adhesive. Once it fully cures, it’s worse than contact cement to remove.”

Step 5: Install the weather stripping.

• Carefully position the new weather stripping onto the adhesive.
• Press it firmly in place.
• Use tape or clamps to hold the strip in place until the adhesive dries. If you’re not using low-adhesion tape, apply a little silicone underneath so it doesn’t rip out the new weather stripping when you go to remove it.

“It’s vital to allow the adhesive to cure and bond to the surface of the door!” says Patterson. “During this time, do not close the door before it’s done curing as it can cause the strip to shift.”

Step 6: Test and clean up.

• When the adhesive is set up, test it by gently opening and closing the door.
• Inspect for gaps in the adhesion.
• Use a clean cloth to remove excess adhesive.

How to Maintain Car Weather Stripping

Maintaining weather stripping on a car will help keep it soft and flexible. From time to time, or when you find dust and debris on the weather stripping:

• Use car wash soap and soft brush to clean it especially the back side of weather stripping where dirt, grit and debris easily can build up plus any vehicle doors or other parts that come into contact with it.
• Dry it completely using a microfiber towel.
• Apply silicone-based rubber protectant or silicone paste (use paste sparingly), until the rubber looks slightly wet. Lacivita recommends using a spray-pump protectant vs. an aerosol-based one because some propellants in aerosols can harm rubber.
• Apply a second coat of protectant, if the weather stripping is old and dry.

“A good coating of any silicone-based protectant can always extend the life of the weatherstrip,” says Patterson. “When detailing the inside of the car, use the same protectant on the seals you used on the leather or vinyl trim.”

How Much Does It Cost to Replace Weather Stripping?

It depends. A roll of generic self-stick or friction weather stripping costs less than $25. “On the other hand, a vehicle-specific weather strip that requires removing trim, or removing the sunroof, can run up to $800,” Lacivita says.

FAQs

Can you drive without weather stripping?

Yes, but why? says Lacivita. “Besides being open to the elements and annoyed with road noise and parts slamming into each other, driving without weather stripping would be uncomfortable since the HVAC system has to work harder to compensate for temperature changes.”

How long does weather stripping last?

If cared for properly, it should last the lifetime of your vehicle. “I would highly doubt that any normal vehicle owner will ever need to replace such items on their car,” says Patterson.

How do you know what kind of weather stripping to use for your car?

If your weather stripping is vehicle or part specific, you’ll need to order it from a dealer or an aftermarket supplier. You can also try to carefully remove a small piece to determine what type you need, such as if it fits into a channel, attaches with clips or is glued to the vehicle’s body. If you’re lucky, you can save money by ordering a generic roll.

About the Experts

Bob Lacivita was an award-winning General Motors master technician for 27 years and has been an ASE master technician since 1978. For 25 years, he also worked as an automotive technical educator and administrator. Today he writes about DIY car repairs and vehicle maintenance for Family Handyman, Reader’s Digest and other outlets.

Thomas Patterson is Director of New Product Development and Technical Training at Glass Doctor. He has been in the glass business for 45 years and worked on thousands of vehicles. Glass Doctor is a Neighborly Company, with more than 300 retail locations.

Article source here: A Guide to Repairing and Maintaining Weather Stripping on Your Car

5 Best Mini Chainsaws, Tested and Reviewed

PAMELA BONDURANT/FAMILY HANDYMAN

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Best Overall Mini Chainsaw

Dewalt Cordless Battery Powered Chainsaw

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Pros:

• High-quality brand
• Lightweight
• 3-year warranty
• Ships with oil
• Versatile battery packs

Cons:

• Pricey

The Dewalt Mini Chainsaw was one of two that shipped with bar and chain oil. This was one of the first things I noticed upon unpackaging it, and it was indeed a welcome accessory. As with most of the saws, it required virtually nothing to get up and running. The device has the usual black and yellow Dewalt styling and uses 20v batteries that are common across many Dewalt tools such as drills, drivers, and saws.

It shipped with a 20V three-amp-hour battery, which was plenty of power to cut through everything I planned to trim in my yard (which is about an acre). Had I planned on taking down all the invasive Austrian pines to a length that my fire pit could handle, I definitely would have run out of juice. Still, overall, the three-amp-hour battery did the trick, and the 20V was plenty of power to cut through four- to six-inch diameter fruit and pine trees.

The brushless motor ran quietly, and the device, which weighed about 5 pounds with the battery attached, was light enough to work with for extended periods. A tool is required to adjust the chain tension, but the tool is included and stored on the device.

Article source here: 5 Best Mini Chainsaws, Tested and Reviewed

5 Tips for Moving Large Rocks, Stones and Concrete Blocks

Use a Dolly

The nice thing about a dolly is that you don’t have to hoist a heavy object as high as you would with a wheelbarrow. And with the dolly’s two wheels and lower center of gravity, the load is much more stable. We used a dolly for moving a 250-lb. plate compactor from the truck to the excavation, for transporting large flagstones across lawns and for hauling stacks of brick and block to their destination.

For heavy outdoor uses like these, rent a dolly that has large pneumatic tires. They roll more easily over surfaces that are rough or soft (grass). Make sure the tires are correctly inflated or you’ll get a flat!

Walk backward and pull the loaded dolly up a hill or stairs.You’ll have more leverage and better control. And rest the handle on your thigh to support the weight when you have to take a quick break. That way you won’t need to tip the dolly upright and then tip the load down again.

Use Your Head Before Your Back

As a landscape contractor, I move a lot of stone, brick and concrete blocks by hand. I have one basic rule: Use your head before your back. Whenever you face a heavy rock, timber or pile of bricks, stop and consider the various options you have for moving it.

Reject any technique that might cause a serious strain, especially to your back. The safe method may require you to make more trips, rent better equipment, ruin more of the lawn or spend a bit more, but don’t take chances with your health.

Article source here: 5 Tips for Moving Large Rocks, Stones and Concrete Blocks

Level Up With KILZ

Article source here: Level Up With KILZ

Ditch Plastic Landscape Edging for Natural Mulch

Trench landscape edging looks great in informal garden settings. Use trench edging as a border around spreading evergreens or groundcovers or in areas where vinyl or other permanent landscape edging material would look too formal and unnatural. You can easily shift it if plants outgrow the bed.

An open trench holds back the adjacent grass better than a trench filled with mulch. But if you prefer a more finished look, fill it with mulch. You’ll have to redig the trench once in a while to keep it neat and to hold back the lawn, but it doesn’t take long and you can add the trimmings to your compost pile.

Digging a Planter Edging Trench

Dig a trench 4 to 6 in. deep and about 4 in. wide with a straight spade. Angle the sides outward at the top. Next, fill theplanter edging trench with wood chips or other organic mulch for a more finished look and to deter weeds.

Benefits of Landscape Edging

Landscape edging not only makes your yard look sharp with neat lines around garden beds and pathways, but it also keeps everything in place, preventing soil erosion and stopping pesky plants from taking over where they shouldn’t. Plus, it makes yard work like mowing and weeding a whole lot easier, giving you more time to kick back and enjoy your outdoor space.

Article source here: Ditch Plastic Landscape Edging for Natural Mulch

How To Use a Broadcast Spreader the Right Way

Maintaining an attractive lawn takes lots of hard work, knowledge, timing and good weather. It also takes the precise (and seemingly endless) application of grass seed, soil builder and fertilizer. Each product you apply requires a different spread rate. Too much is wasteful and could kill your lawn; too little wont do the job.

A goodbroadcastspreader can apply just the right amount of product. The key is to choose a model that has an adjustable spread rate setting to deliver the product uniformly and in accurate amounts to the left, center and right while applying the recommended volume for your lawn size.

Broadcast spreaders are reasonably priced and widely available from garden and home centers. Here, well show you how to use your grass seed spreader more effectively to save time and make your lawn more attractive.

What Is a Broadcast Spreader?

Also called a broadcaster, these devices use a spinning wheel to spread grass seed, lawn fertilizer, salt, etc. over a wide area. They work best for covering large areas, yards larger than 4,000 sq. ft.

How Does a Broadcast Spreader Work?

One of their wheels is geared so that as you push the broadcaster, the drive wheel turns a whirling impeller plate with several fins on it under the hopper that catches and throws the payload. When the shutoff plate is open, the impeller broadcasts the material in a 180-degree arc 7 ft. to 11 ft. wide (depending on the products granular size and your walking speed).

Broadcast Spreaders vs. Drop Spreaders

What’s a drop spreader?

Drop spreaders lay a trail of material the width of their hopper (less than 24 in.). They work best on small lawns and in yards with numerous flowerbeds, sidewalks or patios where you need to control the spread pattern carefully. Unless youre meticulous about lining up adjacent passes, the payload either is laid too thick or misses portions of the grass, resulting in visible striping.

Broadcaster spreaders and drop spreaders are push-powered workhorses that share many features in common. At the heart of both is a hopper with adjustable holes in the bottom. A gauge mounted on the spreaders handlebar allows you to accurately set the size of these holes (following the recommended setting listed on many bags of lawn products), allowing the proper volume of material to uniformly exit the hopper. Alongside the gauge, a flow lever controls when the material drops onto the lawn by opening and closing a plate under the hopper holes.

How to Use a Broadcast Spreader

Whether you’re reseeding your lawn or just maintaining it, the key to operating a broadcaster spreader is to achieve even dispersal at the right concentration.

Find the right setting and test the dispersal pattern

Dial in the product manufacturers recommended setting on the spread rate gauge, and test and measure the products dispersal pattern through the spreader.

Conduct the dispersal pattern test in your driveway or another flat, clear area. Be sure to sweep dirt and debris away if you are using your driveway.

With a broadcast spreader, the right side of the dispersal pattern will be a foot or two wider than the left. Use this test information to establish the pattern youll use to push the spreader across your yard for total coverage with 6 in. to 1 ft. of overlap. Write this wide side, narrow side measurement information on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the back of the hopper so you dont forget the broadcast pattern for each side.

Important:Dont sweep, blow or wash this test material into the street. Sweep it up and dump it back in the hopper.

If the product doesnt list a recommended setting for your spreader, consult your owners manual for generic equivalents of each product. Otherwise, youll have to resort to trial and error. Set the spreader to a light coverage (try a 1/4-in. to 3/16-in. hole in the hopper), apply the product over the recommended square footage, and check how much product you have left in the hopper. Adjust the dial to spread the remaining material over the same area, going perpendicular to the first pattern.

Start spreading product on your lawn

Begin your yard pattern by spreading across hills first. This way, youll have enough lawn product in the hopper to reduce skipping over the uneven terrain.

Keep a steady pace

Maintain the pace youd use to take a middle-aged, midsized dog for a walk (about 3 mph). Your walking speed affects how wide and how much product the broadcaster throws. Walking too slow reduces the throw width and increases product density; walking too fast thins out the coverage.

Stopping and turning

Each time youre ready to stop or make a turn, close the flow lever to stop dispersing the product and continue one more stride. This reduces waste and avoids damaging the lawn from saturated product coverage. Avoid pulling the spreader backward when the flow lever is open; youll release more of the product.

Keep the spreader level

Operate the spreader, keeping the impeller plate close to level. Tilting the handlebar up or down from level throws the product too high or low, resulting in uneven coverage.

Don’t overdo it!

Dont over-apply fertilizer and weed killer. Follow the recommended coverage rate for each product. Overuse and overapplication can lead to lawn runoff that contaminates lakes and streams. Protect yourself by wearing gloves and a nuisance dust mask when handling chemical lawn products that contain pesticides and herbicides.

Optimal Broadcast Spreader Pattern

Follow this optimal pattern for running your broadcaster spreader. Apply a header strip by circling the spreader once around the yard’s perimeter. Avoid throwing the material payload into adjacent flowerbeds by running the spreader back from those areas the distance your driveway test showed.

Complete the pattern by pushing the spreader on a serpentine route back and forth in the longest direction on the lawn while overlapping the throw patterns about a foot.

Shut off the flow lever as you near the end of a row when the spreader is within 5 ft. of the header strip. Keep the lever off during the turn and open it to begin the new row.

Article source here: How To Use a Broadcast Spreader the Right Way

Why Is My Garbage Disposal Humming?

Garbage disposals are one of the unsung heroes in the kitchen. Performing the thankless job of grinding up food scraps daily and sending them down the drain, they’re easy to take for granted. But if your garbage disposal stops working, it can disrupt the entire workflow of your kitchen.

If your garbage disposal is humming but not spinning, read on for expert troubleshooting tips and guidance from two licensed plumbers Liam Hogan from Hogan Mechanical Incorporated and Armand Lamour, a master plumber from Smith Vocational and Agricultural High School.

Why Is My Garbage Disposal Humming, but Not Spinning?

Your garbage disposal may be humming, but not spinning, for various reasons, like:

The garbage disposal is jammed

Most likely, it’s stuck. “Usually it’s some sort of particle jammed in the impeller,” Hogan says, which prevents the blades from turning. Lamour agrees. “A portion of the inner disposal workings is likely jammed,” he says. This can happen if a piece of food, a plastic bag or utensil becomes wedged into the blade impeller and stops it from rotating. “You’ll still hear the hum as it powers on, but nothing will happen,” Hogan says.

The garbage disposal motor has failed

Besides an obstruction, the motor or other mechanical components may be failing or faulty. “It could be a bearing wearing out or the motor dying,” Hogan says. According to Lamour, a damaged or broken motor can stop spinning the impeller despite having power.

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal That’s Humming

Immediately turn off a garbage disposal that is humming but not spinning to prevent damaging the unit. You can try a few things before calling in a pro, depending on your skill and comfort level.

Safety Precautions

Before attempting to troubleshoot, always turn off the power to the garbage disposal. Especially when jammed, the blade could suddenly move when freed. Keep fingers away from the blade at all times.

Steps or methods to troubleshoot

If the unit is humming, there’s still power going to the disposal. “If that’s the case, you can rule out an electrical issue,” Hogan says. Here are some troubleshooting steps if your garbage disposal is humming, but not spinning.

1. Turn off the power: Shut the power off at the disposal and the breaker and unplug the disposal if applicable.
2. Visually inspect for obstructions: Use a flashlight to look into the disposal chamber. Use long-handled pliers or tongs to remove any food or utensils you find carefully. “Never put your hand or fingers in the opening of the disposal,” Lamour says. Run the water and test the disposal.
3. Manually rotate the blades: If there are no obstructions, or the unit is still not working, insert an Allen key or disposal wrench (it comes with the unit) into the hex-shaped hole found at the bottom of the unit. Rotate the blade back and forth to help remove any remaining or unseen blockage. Turn the disposal flywheel only, do not try to move the blade directly with a tool or your fingers. Run the water and test the disposal.
4. Smell and listen: If the disposal is still not working, it’s likely not a blockage, but a bad mechanical part. Failing motors can give off a burning smell. “You might also hear a grinding noise coming from the motor,” Hogan says, so listen for any unusual sounds when operating the disposal. These point to a failing disposal that requires replacement.

When to Call a Pro

“If you are unable to see and remove an object causing a blockage in the disposal, you can not get the disposal to spin manually using the Allen key in the bottom, or the disposal is leaking into the motor windings, it is time to call in a professional,” Lamour says.

However, replacing a garbage disposal can be a straightforward DIY project if you are comfortable with the required skills and have the necessary tools.

FAQs

Do Garbage Disposals Go Bad?

“Anything mechanical can fail,” Hogan says, “However, you should expect 15 years of average use for a garbage disposal.”

How Do You Make a Garbage Disposal Last?

“Be mindful of what you put down them,” Hogan says. “In my home, we scrape plates into the garbage first, then rinse in the sink.” Lamour advises always to run the water when the disposal is turned on to keep the inside lubricated.

Regular cleaning can help extend the life of your disposal as well. “Grinding up lemon chunks every three weeks or so [keeps] the disposal smelling fresh and the acidity in the lemon juice will help free up stuck food particles,” Lamour says.

When Should You Replace Your Garbage Disposal?

If it goes bad and stops working, it’s definitely time to replace it. Hogan points out that if you’re doing a kitchen remodel, it’s a great time to put in a new disposal. “Tackle replacement then,” he says. Also, replacement makes sense if your disposal is starting to make loud noises, or if you’re looking for a quieter option.

About the Experts

• Liam Hogan is the owner of Hogan Mechanical Incorporated a full-service residential and commercial plumbing company in Springfield, Massachusetts. He has a Journeymans Plumbing License.
• Armand Lamour is a Plumbing Instructor at Smith Vocational and Agricultural High School in Northampton, Massachusetts. He holds a Master Plumbers license in Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island. Mr. Lamour has over twenty years experience in the field.

Article source here: Why Is My Garbage Disposal Humming?

How You Can Mount Lights on Vinyl Siding

Vinyl siding is durable, attractive, and relatively inexpensive compared to other siding choices, such as brick and wood. It lasts, too. Once it’s up on your house, it’s staying there for about 30 years. But what if you want to add lighting on your porch or above the garage? Do you have to rip off a section of siding? That sounds like a major hassle.

Luckily, no large-scale demolition is necessary. All you need to do is drill a hole and use a handy mounting block specifically made for vinyl siding. I’m a licensed electrician, and I’ve spent many hours on punch lists and change orders. Returning to a project to add stuff that wasn’t on the original prints can be frustrating, but vinyl siding mounting blocks make the process much easier.

Below, I’ll introduce you to the concept, and give helpful tips so you can tackle the project yourself.

What Is a Vinyl Mounting Block?

A vinyl mounting block provides a flat surface on which to mount a light fixture. Vinyl siding, just like wood clapboard and aluminum siding, is attached to your home in “laps,” or long horizontal boards that overlap each other to keep out the elements. This uneven surface makes it difficult to install a light fixture without leaving gaps or causing the siding to buckle. Vinyl mounting blocks are available for almost any lap and securely hold lights upright.

When Do You Need a Vinyl Mounting Block?

A mounting block is needed anytime a light needs to be attached to the uneven lap of the siding. Here are two likely situations, the only difference being whether the electrical wiring is ready and waiting for you or you have to pull it later.

In an ideal scenario, when your house was being built, an electrician would pull wire or run pipe through the walls to every place you’d like a light and mount an accessible electrical box on a stud behind the siding. The siding installer would work around the box so that a light could be installed later. The electrician would come back after the siding was up and install the block and light.

There is another scenario (perhaps one you’re facing now) where you won’t have the existing wiring or box. Don’t worry. It’s more labor-intensive than just mounting a light, but it’s still a doable DIY project. Once you know where you want the light, you’ll bring a cable from a nearby electrical source to the location, poke it through to the outside, and mount the block and light.

How To Install a Vinyl Mounting Block

First, ensure you buy a block with the same lap size as your siding. Mounting blocks come in multiple lap sizes and colors to match your existing siding. According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), lights have to be secured to an electrical box. So if you don’t have one at your new location, make sure to buy a mounting block with an integrated box.

If you already have a light or wires at the location, say, you’re replacing an old mount that’s cracked or an ugly color, rejoice. All you have to do is turn off the electricity to the circuit (always test with a non-contact voltage tester to be sure), remove the light and block, and replace it by threading the wire through the new block, seating it on the siding, and making the connections.

If you’re starting from scratch, decide where you’ll get power first. A single light fixture uses very little juice half an amp with a 60-watt bulb so the easiest way is to tap into an existing lighting circuit. See if you can access a garage light or other nearby light fixture, turn off the power, and bring a same-sized Romex cable from the light to your new location. Fishing wires can be a little dicey, but believe me, there’s always a way.

Drill a small (half-inch or so) hole through your siding, and pull the cable through. Protect the cable by installing a connector in the block, and feed the wire through. Attach the block to the stud, if present, or the wood sheathing behind the siding, adding a bead of sealant to prevent water intrusion. Make the electrical connections at the light, attach the light to the block, and turn on the power.

FAQ

How do I maintain the light fixture after it’s installed?

Periodically inspect the light. If you see sagging, gaps or loose caulk, turn off the power before attempting to re-seat the fixture. If you experience flickering, buzzing, weird smells or sparks, turn off the power and call a licensed electrician.

Article source here: How You Can Mount Lights on Vinyl Siding

How To Drill Into a Stud

Two benefits come with building or remodeling with wood studs. The studs provide the strength and framework for the structure, and the empty spaces between the studs serve an important function, too: If you know how to drill into a stud safely, they provide the perfect place a veritable vertical freeway to run pipes, vents, drains, wires and ductwork.

The drawback? When you have to run pipes, ducts or wires horizontally, you often have to notch or drill holes sometimes big ones into a stud to get them to their destination. But you can’t just drill and saw away. There are rules you have to follow for drilling and notching studs. Some rules help ensure the structural integrity of a wall. Others are aimed at protecting pipes and wires that could be damaged by screws, nails and other fasteners driven into a wall.

Rules for Notching and Boring Studs

There are LOTS of building codes dictating just how large a hole or notch you can cut, and building codes allow you to drill bigger holes and cut bigger notches in non-load-bearing walls than in load-bearing walls.

The technical yet important rules are:

• Holes in bearing wall studs (exterior and interior walls that bear the weight of the roof and/or other stories above) may not exceed 40 percent of the width of the stud.
• Notches in bearing wall studs may not exceed 25 percent of the stud’s width.
• Holes in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 60 percent of their width.
• Notches in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 40 percent of their width.
• The edge of a hole must be at least 5/8 in. from the edge of a stud.

To appease the plumbing gods, building codes have made at least one notable exception: In bearing walls, you can bore 60 percent size holesas long as you double up the studs and don’t drill into more than two successive pairs of these doubled-up studs. This allows you to run a short section of drain, waste, vent (DWV) pipe through a 2×4 wall without beefing up the whole wall to 2×6 dimensions.

There are other, less specific guidelines:

• When possible, notch a stud near the top, rather than the bottom.
• Don’t locate holes and notches near large or loose knots.
• Don’t group too many in the same area of the stud.
• Finally, notch only when necessary; holes weaken it less than notches.

In areas subject to high winds, earthquakes or tornadoes, maintaining wall strength is particularly important. Furthermore, studs with too much meat removed tend to bow and warp. Your building inspector will be on the lookout for overzealous notching and boring, so follow the rules.

In reality, few walls ever out-and-out collapse during everyday duty from being riddled with too many holes and notches. But there are LOTS of cases in which unprotected or inadequately protected pipes and wires have been nicked and punctured by screws and nails. Any plumber or electrician will tell you that’s what you REALLY need to watch out for!

Protect Wires and Pipes

The National Electrical Code requires holes containing non-metallic cable (often called Romex) or flexible metal-clad cable (the type you buy with the wires already in it) be set back 1-1/4 in. or more from the edge of a studto protect the wires from nails and screws. (The 1-1/4-in. screws and nails used to secure 1/2-in. drywall penetrate the studs about 3/4 in.)

Most electricians keep their inspector happy by drilling 3/4-in. holes dead center on a 3-1/2 in. wide stud. This gives them a hole large enough to run two electrical cables and leave 1-3/8 in. of protective wood on each side. If they need to run more wires, they’ll drill more holes directly above the others. If a hole comes any closer than 1-1/4 in., your inspector will make you install a 1/16-in. thick protective metal plate.

The mechanical codes for plumbing and heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems also dictate that holes containing pipes be set back 1-1/4 in. from the edge of a stud to protect the pipes from fasteners. Those that come closer need to be covered by metal plates; for big pipes, use a long protective plate.

Electricians and plumbers spend lots of time drilling big holes, so they know a few tricks to make the job easier (or avoid it altogether).

Tips for Less Drilling and Notching

1. Before beginning any project, plot out exactly where large pipes and ducts will run and determine how you’ll get them there.
2. Wherever possible, run large pipes and ducts vertically into unfinished attics or basements. Then, install elbows and run the pipe or duct horizontally below the floor joists or above the ceiling joists.
3. Build 2×6 stud walls where DWV pipes and holes exceed the limits described above.
4. Rent a right-angle drill and use Selfeed or hole saw bits for boring large holes. The right angle drill allows you to drill holes square to the stud face. Holes drilled at an angle will wind up oval and therefore larger.
5. Keep the holes centered on the studs and a consistent height off the floor.
6. Drill holes into a stud at least 1/4 in. oversize, especially for hot water pipes. If you don’t, they’ll make annoying sounds as they expand, contract and rub along studs.
7. Joist hanger manufacturers sell wrap-around, stud reinforcer plates. Ask your inspector if they are permissible in special situations.
8. When boring electrical holes, keep them square to the stud for easier wire installation or pulling. This may seem trivial, but angled holes catch the wire and keep you from pulling wire through more than two or three studs at a time. Holes in a linelet you pull wire through an entire wall length of studs at one time.

Article source here: How To Drill Into a Stud

Inline Exhaust Fans: How to Use Them to Vent Multiple Bathrooms

If you have two bathrooms that are close together and one has an exhaust fan and the other doesn’t, you might be wondering if you can tie a new exhaust duct into the existing one. Well, you can’t! You’d often blow air from one bathroom into the other, and local building inspectors wouldn’t approve it.

But while you can’t have two fans with one vent, you can make one fan and one vent serve two bathrooms. This setup requires an in-line exhaust fan.

Read on to learn about installation costs, how to buy the right size and how to know if an inline exhaust fan is the right solution for your venting needs. Three industry pros, Matthew Labrecque from All Air HVAC, Jay Ryan from Boulanger’s Plumbing and Heating and Peter Glover from Glover’s Plumbing offer pro tips and insights on this versatile exhaust fan option.

What Is an Inline Exhaust Fan?

An inline or remote exhaust fan is a type of home ventilation fan installed within the ductwork. These fan types are typically mounted in the attic, rather than in the room it ventilates.

A common use for inline exhaust fans is to vent two bathrooms. A plastic exhaust grille in each bathroom (usually in the ceiling) attaches to ducts, which then fasten to a “Y” connector at the fan. From the fan, a single exhaust duct exits through the roof. Each bathroom has its own switch and operates independently.

Inline exhaust fans can also be used to move warm air throughout a home, like from a wood stove to a garage or basement, remove radon gas or vent a range hood in the kitchen.

Inline Exhaust Fans vs. Standard Bathroom Exhaust Fans

While both fans remove humidity and odors from your bathroom, each system has pros and cons.

Inline exhaust pros and cons

Pros

• An inline vent system is quiet. Because the fan is in the attic, you’ll hardly hear it. They are also available in larger, more powerful options than any standard bath fan.
• The inline fans perform better over longer duct lines because of the extra power.
• They maintain their advertised cubic feet per minute (CFM) air extraction rating over longer distances.
• Less ductwork and holes in the roof for hood vents with an inline system.

Cons

• Applications can be limited, as you’ll need accessible attic space to install an inline fan.
• Material and installation costs are also much higher than a standard exhaust fan.
• Ryan points to a lack of customization options and added features as a drawback of inline fans. “An inline fan is just a fan,” he says. “It doesn’t have all the added features of a bathroom fan.”

Standard bathroom exhaust fan pros and cons

Pros

• A standard bathroom exhaust fan is less expensive than an inline system.
• They are easier to install yourself or cost less if hiring a pro.
• They come with a lot of optional features, too. “You can get one with a room light, a night light, a motion sensor or humidity sensor,” Ryan says.

Cons

• A standard bathroom exhaust fan is louder when operating than an inline fan.
• They tend to have weaker motors and poorer suction than inline fans.
• Each unit requires independent ductwork and an outside vent hood, which can be problematic in a home with lots of bathrooms.

How to Use an Inline Exhaust Fan to Vent More Than One Bathroom

First, install plastic exhaust grills in each bathroom ceiling. Run 4-in. flexible ductwork from the grills to the inline fan. Connect each duct to a “Y” connector, then secure it to the inline fan. A single 6-in. duct runs from the fan to the vent hood through the roof.

Some inline fans have plugs and others are hard-wired. Each bathroom is also wired to operate independent power switches.

How to Calculate the Size of the Inline Exhaust Fan You Need

For a standard two-bathroom application, first measure each bathroom’s square footage (length X width) and add these numbers for the total square footage.

When shopping for an inline fan, look for a model with a CFM air extraction rate that is slightly more than the bathrooms’ square footage. For example, if the total is 130 sq. ft., look for a fan with a 140 to 160 CFM rating.

“You’re trying to come up with a CFM that will keep the humidity down,” Ryan says. He adds that some models come with a range of CFM that can be adjusted to suit your bathroom ventilation needs.

FAQs

Can you vent a bathroom and a range hood together?

No. “A kitchen vent is considered combustible, so it needs to be on its own exhaust system,” Glover says.

How much does it cost to install an inline exhaust fan?

Expect to pay at least $2,500 to $3,000 for an inline exhaust fan installation.

Can inline exhaust fans be too big?

Yes. Oversized fans can incur higher operational costs, expel warm air from your living space, and potentially induce a vacuum effect by expelling an excessive amount of air that needs replacing.

About the Experts

• Matthew Labrecque is the owner of All Air HVAC located in South Hadley, Massachusetts. The company specializes in heating and cooling installation and repairs, ductwork and air purification systems in new and existing homes. He has over 18 years of industry experience.
• Peter Glover is the owner of Glover’s Plumbing in Kenner, Louisiana, a residential plumbing company. He is a Master Plumber with over fifteen years of experience.
• Jay Ryan is HVAC project manager for Boulanger’s Plumbing and Heating in Easthampton, Massachusetts. He’s been with Boulanger’s since 2001 and holds a Master Plumber License in the State of Massachusetts.

Article source here: Inline Exhaust Fans: How to Use Them to Vent Multiple Bathrooms

Installing a New Sink: 11 Things to Watch Out For

Measure the Tailpiece First

When installing a new sink, you can choose one with a deeper basin than the existing one, but if it hangs down too low, it won’t drain properly, and you’ll have to lower the sanitary tee connection in the drain line inside the wall. You’ll definitely want to avoid this task if the connection is metal and ends up being behind base cabinets. Plastic pipe is easierif you can get to it easily. The actual tee connection may be several studs over from where the waste arm enters the wall.

Measure the sink tailpiece between the basket strainer and the tee. That measurement is the extra depth that can be added to the sink bowl without lowering the drainpipe going into the wall. Also, be aware that a new disposer may have a lower drainpipe than your existing onebut it can’t be lower than the tee. If the disposer drainpipe will be too low, consider a sink with different depth bowls. You’ll have a deep bowl for dishes and a shallow one for the disposer.

Article source here: Installing a New Sink: 11 Things to Watch Out For

Midea Dehumidifier Review: A Game Changer in North Carolina Humidity

There are two big things I’m still getting used to after moving from New York to North Carolina: A lack of good bagels (I said what I said) and the humidity. I’m writing this in mid-April, and I’m already drenched in sweat the second I walk out the door. Sure, the air conditioner feels nice once I walk back in, but that’s not doing much, if anything, to eliminate excess moisture that can create mold and aggravate certain respiratory conditions (not to mention it causes everything to feel sticky).

That’s where my Midea dehumidifier comes in handy. I’m not exaggerating when I say this thing has become a lifesaver in recent weeks, and I intend to keep it running until Mother Nature decides to bless me with a cool, crisp breeze again.

In my Midea dehumidifier review, I’ll explain why this machine impressed me so much, the features that separate it from other dehumidifiers and who should consider one for their living space or crawl space.

What is the Midea dehumidifier?

Midea may not be a household name like GE or Samsung, but the Chinese-based company is one of the largest appliance manufacturers in the world. They make everything from refrigerators to air fryers, though they’re best known for their air conditioners and dehumidifiers.

The Energy Star-certified Midea dehumidifier I’m talking about today comes in three sizes based on your living space 1,500, 3,000 and 4,500 square feet options. Like other dehumidifiers out there, it sucks excess moisture out of the air and collects the water in a tank located at the bottom of the machine on the front side panel.

But unlike similar machines, it comes with premium features such as adjustable humidity, wheels and a quiet noise level despite being on the larger side. It can also be connected to the Midea Air app to monitor its performance and your room’s air quality.

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Midea Dehumidifier

An Energy Star-certified dehumidifier that covers up to 4,500 square feet

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Midea Dehumidifier Features

I’ve tested and used more than ten dehumidifiers, so let me tell you why the Midea Energy Star-certified dehumidifier is the only one I’ve kept and continue to use.

Side venting

The Midea dehumidifier uses side air venting, unlike most dehumidifiers that vent from the top or the back. Honestly, I don’t think this made much of a difference in performance. If anything, they probably went with side venting because you’re less likely to block the airflow that way.

For example, if you had a dehumidifier with a vent in the back, you couldn’t place it flush against a wall because the vents would be blocked. I also think the air feels much cooler coming out of the sides than from the back or top, and though I have no way of proving that it was other online reviewers mentioned, I’m not the only one who thinks it.

Although dehumidifiers don’t cool rooms, I have to say that my room does feel considerably cooler when this thing is running.

Adjustable humidity

While excess moisture can be a problem it can lead to mold and other hazardous conditions having an area that’s too dry can also be an issue. Remember, humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. Low humidity can lead to dry skin, coughing, and damage to wood and paint.

The Midea dehumidifier has an adjustable humidity feature, allowing you to set the humidity anywhere from 35 to 80 percent. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency says indoor humidity should be kept to 30 to 50 percent, though that number may change depending on what rooms your dehumidifier is in.

I kept mine at around 50 percent, which gave me the best relief from the humid weather without turning my house into the Sahara. I played with this feature and found the machine responsive to changes. I could see this being useful for collectors who need to keep rooms at a precise humidity level to protect their goods, whether comic books or anything else that can be ruined by moisture or dryness.

Large Tank Capacity

The Midea dehumidifiers’ water tank capacity depends on which size you buy. The smallest model holds up to 22 pints of water, while the largest holds up to 50. That’s an impressive amount of moisture that can easily be used to water plants, thanks to the convenient carrying handle on the reservoir.

I read multiple customer reviews stating the 50-pint tank was enough to hold a day’s moisture in some of the most humid climates, including New Orleans and southern Florida. Depending on the weather, I can go two to four days without emptying mine (outside Charlotte, NC).

Auto Shut-Off

Nothing is worse than waking up or returning from work and finding a large puddle under your dehumidifier. Luckily, the Midea dehumidifier has an auto shut-off function to prevent overfills. The dehumidifier makes a beeping noise that will wake you up if it goes off in the middle of the night, so it’s a good idea to empty it before you sleep if you live in a very humid area.

Wheels

The Midea dehumidifier weighs 33.5 pounds, so it’s not something you’d particularly want to carry from room to room. That’s why it comes with four high-quality caster wheels for easy portability.

The wheels move smoothly on most surfaces, though like any set of wheels, they don’t do well on carpet.

Continuous Use

My one big knock against the Midea dehumidifier is that it doesn’t come with a drainage hose despite having an optional continuous draining function. Drainage hoses don’t cost much, so I’m wondering why the company decided not to include them. Sure, it’s easy enough to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get one, but I’m a fan of getting everything in one place, and if Midea is going to give you the option, they should provide everything to take advantage of it.

It’s one reason I still haven’t tested the continuous drainage option on this dehumidifier (well, that and North Carolina never gets that humid). Customer reviews, however, say the continuous drain function works just fine if you use it as a basement dehumidifier or live in a highly humid area.

Their one complaint is that only one model comes with a pump (it works for spaces up to 4,500 square feet). Without the pump, you’ll have to drain into a floor drain or something close to the ground.

Noise Level

For a machine of its size, the Midea dehumidifier is pretty quiet. You can definitely hear it, but it sounds more like a white noise machine than a water vacuum (hey, that’s basically what it is).

The Midea is two feet tall and 16 inches wide, so it’s not the smallest or largest dehumidifier out there, but it’s still on the bigger side. Dehumidifiers get louder as they get larger, so I was expecting a noisier dehumidifier when I first pulled this thing out of the box.

Washable Filter

The Midea dehumidifier has a built-in filter that can be washed when needed. Most experts recommend cleaning your dehumidifiers every two to three weeks and replacing built-in filters annually. Midea, however, says their washable filter is meant to reduce the need for “expensive replacement parts,” so it seems like they’re claiming that there’s no need to replace the filter.

How We Tested It

As stated, I live outside Charlotte, NC, where it can feel humid from early April to October. Why do you think Charlotteans brag about being close to the beach and mountains? It’s because we’re trying to escape the humidity!

I’ve been using dehumidifiers since moving here in August 2022, and I’ve had the Midea dehumidifier in my girlfriend’s roughly 2,000-square-foot house since September 2023 (I’m writing this review in April 2024). During that time, I tested its performance in making the house feel more comfortable and used its many features, including the adjustable humidity settings and 24-hour timer. I also moved it from room to room, noted how loud it was and monitored its performance as the months went on.

Pros

• Energy efficient
• Adjustable humidity settings
• Quiet, especially for its size
• Comes with wheels for easy portability
• No assembly required
• Large tank capacity
• Optional continuous operation mode
• Connects to Midea Air app
• 24-hour timer
• Washable filter

Cons

• It’s still quite large despite being portable
• No drainage hose included

FAQ

What is the best setting for a Midea dehumidifier?

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency says indoor humidity should be 35 to 50 percent, so the best setting is the one that gets you in that range (you can monitor this with a hygrometer). For people in Florida or Louisiana, that might be on the Midea dehumidifier’s highest setting, whereas Northerners may need to put it on low.

What does the Smart button do on Midea dehumidifier?

The Smart button on Midea dehumidifiers measures the room’s humidity and adjusts the power setting to achieve the ideal humidity level, which is 35 to 50 percent. This feature isn’t available on all Midea models.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

We’re not the only ones impressed with the Midea dehumidifier. As of this writing, it has a 4.3 average rating on Amazon and more than 9,500 five-star reviews.

“It has been running 24 hours a day, seven days a week for the past three years,” writes five-star Amazon reviewer R. Smith. “That is almost 26,000 running hours without any issues so far.”

Midea Dehumidifier vs. GE Dehumidifier

GE is a much bigger name in home electronics, but do they make a better dehumidifier than the Midea dehumidifier? Although I haven’t tested GE’s, I dare to say that the Midea is a better deal because the 50-pint option without the pump is about $60 cheaper than GE’s. The Midea dehumidifier with the pump is the same price as the GE without a pump, and the GE model with a pump is more than $300.

Hot take, but I think the price difference is mainly due to GE’s brand recognition. Let’s compare the Midea and GE dehumidifiers without the pump.

Both can cover up to 4,500 square feet of space, hold up to 50 pints of water, have a removable tank, an auto shut-off function, and wheels. Additionally, they’re almost the same size. The GE has two things that Midea doesn’t, the first being a smart function that adjusts the power settings to the room’s humidity level to optimize energy usage.

Do I think this is worth an extra $60? Not really. The Midea dehumidifier is Energy Star-certified, so we know it’s an energy-efficient appliance.

The second thing is that it comes with a drainage hose and (technically a third thing) the option to automatically or manually drain the tank. Do I think this is worth an extra $60? Again, not really, because the Midea also has a continuous drainage option, though you need to buy your own hose (Midea dehumidifier hoses cost anywhere from $12 to $20, depending on your model).

You may get a better deal on the GE dehumidifier during dehumidifier sales, though the Midea is also likely to be discounted during those times.

Final Verdict

Humidity not only feels bad, but it can be bad for our homes and lungs. The Midea dehumidifier is one of the highest-performing dehumidifiers I’ve used, and it’s the only thing that keeps the living room comfortable during the humid summer months. Its features separate it from similar models: adjustable humidity settings, smooth-rolling wheels, a surprisingly quiet noise level and a large 50-pint tank capacity.

If your house or apartment is 1,000 square feet or larger, I highly recommend buying this product before your living room starts feeling like a swamp.

Where to Buy the Midea Dehumidifier

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A dehumidifier with a reusable air filter for basements and large rooms

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The Midea Energy Star-certified dehumidifier is available on Amazon in three sizes. It costs about $180 for a dehumidifier that covers up to 1,500 square feet, $220 for one that covers 3,000 square feet and $240 for one that covers up to 4,500 square feet. Those models don’t come with a pump, so if you want to use the continuous drainage function, you’ll have to put it near a floor drain or a container close to the ground. The model with a pump covers up to 4,500 square feet and costs about $270.

Article source here: Midea Dehumidifier Review: A Game Changer in North Carolina Humidity

What Should You Do If Your Basement Carpet Gets Wet?

To decide what to do if yourbasementis flooded, go by these rules: If the floodwater was clean (think broken pipes, a burst washing machine supply hose or a foundation leak), you can probably dry out and save the carpet, but youve got to act fast. If the carpet isnt dry within 72 hours, itllstart to grow mold.

However, if the floodwater is dirty (we’re talking a sewer backup or washing machine drain water), you need to call inthe pros.

For this scenario, well assume the basementwas floodedwith clean water, the wateris now shut offand the carpet costis less than your insurance deductible (or you simply want to do it yourself to avoid a claim).

Turn Off Power

Before you set one boot on that squishy carpet, turn off the power to the basement. If youre unsurewhich breakers power the basement receptacles, flip the main circuit breaker in the garage panel. If your electrical panel is in the basement, call an electrician to turn off the power.

Next, remove any extension cords and power strips from the floor and unplug or switch off all electrical appliances (washer, dryer, HVAC). Ask the electrician (if you hired one) to repower the upstairs (to keep the fridge going) and inspect the basement receptacles to determine whether its safe to repower them. If not, you mustbuy several GFCI-equipped extension cords and run power from upstairs receptacles.

Getting Water Out Of Your Basement

Once the risk of electrical shock hasbeen eliminated, its time toextract the water from the carpet. Dont waste your time trying to dry out the carpet with a wet/dry shop vacuumit simply doesnt have enough power.Instead, rent an extractor (if available) or carpet cleaner, an air mover fanor twoandalargecommercialdehumidifier.Rent the largest dehumidifier available. The big ones can remove up to 30 gallons per day, compared with 4 gallons for thelargesthome units.

Tips for Using a Water Extractor

Extraction is 1,200 times more effective than dehumidification. Youll want to move the extractor slowly across the carpet to suck up as much water as possible. Dont rush this step!

Removing Water-Logged Carpet

Once the water is out, peel back the carpeting (watch out for those rusted sharp nails on the tackless stripping) and remove the wet pad. Cut the pad into strips, roll it upandhaul it outside. If the weather is hot, dryandsunny, you can try drying it yourself by rolling it out on your driveway. If that works, you can reinstall it by taping it back together. Just be aware that a new carpet pad is cheap, so dont wastea lot oftime trying to dry the old stuff.

Lay the carpet back on the floor and fireupthe air movers and rental dehumidifier. Keep the basement temperature at or below 75 degrees F. You might think hotter is better because it will dry out everything faster. But a higher temp will accelerate bacterial growth and turn your basement into a petri dish.

While the carpet is drying, check the condition of thewall insulation. If you dont have insulation andyoudry out the basement quickly, you dont have to replace the drywall. But if the insulation is wet, it has to go (wetinsulation cannotbe saved). Snap a chalk line, cut the drywall with a recip sawandtoss the wet stuff. Replace the insulation and install new drywall.

When To Call a Pro

If youhada sewer backup,washing machine drain water spillor river flood, you need professional help.Pros are the only ones with the proper equipment to dry and disinfect your basementin the shortest possible time.

To find a certified water restoration professional, search online for Water Damage Restoration.Look for IICRC (Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification) credentials in the company information (Servicemaster is onecompany that is fully certified).Or, go toiicrc.organd click on Locate a Pro.

Be aware that pros can give you a rough price estimate (the average cost of a basement cleanup is $2,500), but the final cost depends on how long it takes them to dry out your basement. There arejusttoo many variables beyond their control (inside and outside temperature and humidity levels) to give you a set price upfront. Be wary of any company thatgivesyou a set price over the phone.

Article source here: What Should You Do If Your Basement Carpet Gets Wet?