A Beginner’s Guide to Handmade Ceramic Tiles

Section off a workable piece

Purchase mid-range stoneware clay for your tile project. Ceramics expert Codey recommends avoiding earthenware clay: “These clays are fired to only Cone 05 or 06 for both bisque and glaze firings. The problem with earthenware for this type of project is that earthenware is not vitrified when glazed and fired, meaning it will hold and retain water. This would wreak havoc with a table or tile backsplash if that is what you are using it for.”

Open the bag of clay and cut a slice 3/4-in. to 1-in. thick off the block using a clay cutting wire or tool.

Knead and compress the clay to remove air bubbles before rolling it to tile thickness. Air pockets left in the tile may cause damage to the tiles when they are placed in the kiln.

Roll out the clay

Roll out the wet clay into a 3/8-inch slab using a slab roller or a rolling pin with 3/8-in. thick pieces of wood as guides to ensure an even thickness. Use a canvas cloth to protect the clay from getting all over the rolling pin or slab roller.

Cut the tile

Cut the rolled clay slab into your preferred shape using a tile plunge cutter. Plunge cutters for clay come in all shapes and sizes.  They work very similarly to a cookie-cutter.  Press the metal edges through the clay slab, then release the shape from the cutter by pressing down on the plunger.

Clean up the edges

Once the clay has been popped out of the plunge cutter, you may find some imperfections from the edges sticking or curling to the side of the cutter.  This is inevitable, but very easy to fix.

Use a small wood scrap to help straighten and reshape any sides of the tile. Rub your finger along the edges to smooth and round over any rolled-up edges.  Clay is very forgiving. Work the shape until you are satisfied with it.

How you leave the tile is how it will dry. Expect the clay to shrink, curl, and contract as it dries. This is one of the characteristics of clay you can’t fully control. When it comes to drying, clay has a mind of its own.

Note: Tiles from smaller plunge cutters, such as two-inch squares or diamonds, have a higher tendency to deform when being cut by the cutter.

Add texture or a pattern (optional)

Add texture or a pattern to your tile using a stencil, silicone mat or a wood roller.

Texture with a stencil or silicone mat: When rolling out the tile with a rolling pin or slab roller, place the stencil or silicone mat directly on the clay, lay the canvas over it and roll it out again.  You will need to test the first few passes to determine the optimal pressure it takes to imprint the design of your stencil or silicone mat.  Clean the stencil or silicone mat between each roll to prevent it from becoming clogged with wet clay and to keep your pattern crisp.

Texture with a wood roller:  When using a wood roller to imprint a tile with texture, first roll the clay through the slab roller to get an even thickness.  Use a plunge cutter for the desired shape. Then roll the texture into your tile. It is very important to keep even pressure as you roll it over the wet clay. You will find your clay tiles may distort slightly as you roll the texture on. To refine the shape, use the plunge cutter again, being careful not to press down too hard on the plunger and potentially flatten the texture/pattern.  Do a few test rolls until you find the right balance between pressure and reforming the tile.

Allow the tiles to dry

Allow the tiles to dry for five to seven days until they are “bone dry” and the clay has lost all its moisture through air drying. This process can take shorter or longer based on the humidity levels in your region. Bone dry tiles will lighten in color, weigh less, and will feel room temperature- not cold and damp to the touch.

Clay tiles also tend to curl as they dry.  To prevent this from happening, place a flat surface on top of the wet tiles with some weight or pressure.  Not too much weight that it squishes and flattens the tiles. But enough to keep them from curling as they dry. Ensure air can circulate around them as they dry. Because clay shrinks as it dries, it may result in imperfections or uneven shapes, which is to be expected.

Finding a kiln

If you don’t have a kiln, fear not. Most pottery studios offer kiln sessions for a reasonable cost. Contact your nearest pottery studio to inquire about fees and schedule times.  The ceramic pottery community is very helpful and encouraging of those just getting started.

Ceramics expert Codey emphasizes the welcoming nature of the pottery community: “Ask questions, start slow, and do tests. There are numerous Facebook groups, pottery shops, high school teachers, and college professors who would be happy to help with any project. As someone in the ceramics field, we are a welcoming group who love to help others.” He recommends starting with small test batches rather than immediately firing tons of tiles for a major project: “It’s better to do a few small batch firings before you fill the kiln. With time and a couple of firings under your belt, you will be confident knowing what you put in will come out how you want it to.”

The bisque firing

Your tiles will need to go through two firings in the kiln, and the first is the bisque firing. Bisque firing is the initial, lower-temperature firing that essentially bakes out all the water in the clay, leaving it permanent and durable for handling, but still porous for glazing. Each firing takes about 24 hours to complete and then return to a working temperature.

Our mid-range stoneware recommended a cone range of 04-06, so we bisque-fired at cone 05.

Apply the glaze

Once tiles have gone through the first kiln bisque firing, apply the glaze.  Brush or spray the glaze onto each tile face and edges, building up layers of glaze to ensure solid coverage.

When the glaze has set, wipe away any drips that have dried on the bottom of the tiles with a wet sponge before placing them back in the kiln. This will prevent the glaze from adhering to the tiles in the interior of your kiln.

The glaze firing

Place glazed tiles in the kiln with the temperature/cone according to the glaze being used, rather than the clay, as in the bisque firing. In our case, we fired to cone 06.

Allow the tiles to fully cool and remove them from the kiln. Be aware that some of the glazed edges may be very sharp on the finished tiles and may require a light sanding or filing to smooth and dull them. The handmade tiles are now ready to be used for whichever tiling project you made them for.

FAQ

What is clay with Grog?

Grog is a finely ground, previously fired, ceramic material that is purposely added to raw clay to give it strength, making it more stable during air drying and the firing process. It also helps prevent cracking and reduces shrinkage in your clay. Grog increases porosity, which helps clay dry faster.  The added strength of grog helps make this type of clay ideal for hand-building, including creating large sculptures and tiles.

How to clean ceramic tile?

Ceramic tiles are easily cleaned with water and a mild soap. Avoid using bleaches and harsh chemicals on tiles and grout. Be sure to wipe fully dry, as grout can absorb moisture and eventually ruin the substrate or invite molds to develop.

What is the difference between ceramic and porcelain tile?

Ceramic tiles are made from less refined clay, which allows for firing at a lower temperature. Clay tiles are then softer, more porous, and better suited for indoor walls/light use. Porcelain is a denser, harder type of ceramic clay.  Finer clay, such as porcelain, requires firing at higher temperatures.  Higher-temperature firings create superior water resistance, durability, and suitability for floors, high-traffic areas, and outdoor use.

Can you make ceramic tiles without a kiln?

Yes, ceramic tiles can be made without a kiln.  Air-dry clay, commonly used for simple crafts, can be used to make tiles. This type of clay, however, is not food-safe or waterproof. You may also use traditional clay and fire it in an exterior homemade setup, such as a wood stove, fire pit, or fireplace.  The downfall of homemade firing is that it is very difficult to consistently control temperatures, and they also usually don’t reach temperatures to create true ceramic hardness, also known as “vitrification.” Traditional clay requires intense heat (1800°F+) that home ovens can’t reach.

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