Cutting Baseboard Corners Made Simple

Verify the angle of each corner

Use a square or angle finder to determine if the corners are square. If not, determine if they are wider (obtuse) or tighter (acute) than 90 degrees. If the corner angle is wider, your miter angles will need to be greater than 45 degrees. If the angle is tighter, the miter angles will be less than 45 degrees.

Take detailed notes with measurements and specifically which way the miter cut will face. Careful documentation prevents costly mis-cuts during installation.

For baseboards with a square profile, consider using a butt joint

If you are using baseboards with a square, non-decorative profile, you may want to consider using a butt joint in the corner. This will greatly simplify the baseboard installation process. You can also use a butt joint with baseboards with decorative profiles, but it will require cutting cope joints in the profile on one of the inside corner pieces, which can be challenging for even experienced trim carpenters.

If a corner is not square, dial in the angle

Once the square helps you determine you do not have a 90-degree corner, use scrap baseboard pieces to cut test pieces for dry fitting. Measure each baseboard length carefully, accounting for the miter cuts at each end.

Adjust the angle on the miter saw a half of a degree (44-1/2-degrees for tight or 45-1/2-degrees for wide corners) and cut scrap baseboard chunks. Test fit these and continue to adjust until you have a tight fit. This process varies for every corner, so mark your scrap pieces with the angle you’ve cut them at for reference on the following corners.

When you find the correct angle for your corner, transfer and cut the angle to the actual baseboard pieces you’ll be installing.

When the angle is cut right, but it is not sitting well in the corner, shim it out

Use paint stirrers, popsicle sticks, or any other thin flat material that you can nail through to shim the baseboard against the wall and snug up the miter. Slide the popsicle stick behind the bottom of the baseboard at the floor to shim out the bottom or tuck it behind the top of the baseboard to bump the top forward.

If some of the popsicle stick peeks out above the baseboard, cut the excess off with a utility knife after it has been nailed in place. You may find you don’t need the popsicle stick behind both pieces coming into a corner. Play with the placement of the popsicle stick to determine which way best tightens the mitered corner.

Nail the baseboards in place

When you find the correct angle for your corner, transfer and cut the angle to the actual baseboard pieces you’ll be installing. Nail the baseboard pieces to the wall using two-inch brad nails, hitting every wall stud that they span.

For a professional finish, fill the nail holes with wood filler and sand it back with fine-grit sandpaper. Caulk any gaps along the top edge of the baseboard. Then do a quick touch-up with your topcoat paint or stain.

FAQ

Do tall baseboards make a room look bigger?

The addition of wall trim, including baseboards, adds dimension to a room and makes it appear larger. Furthermore, taller baseboards contribute to the illusion of taller walls by drawing the eye upward.

Should there be a gap between the baseboard and wall?

No, baseboard gaps are not only unsightly but also allow drafts into the home. A bead of caulk should be applied to the gaps at the top, where the baseboard meets the wall. Gaps at the bottom, where the baseboard meets the floor, should be covered with quarter-round or shoe molding.

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