How to Install Electrical Outlets in the Kitchen

Getting Started

Outlet Amps and Wiring

We tracked down an electrician who, not surprisingly, adds kitchen outlets all the time. He showed us how he adds an outlet to a kitchen backsplash by running conduit through the back of the cabinets. This method is fast, inexpensive, super simple, and best of all, doesn’t require a whole bunch of wall repairs or painting. This article shows how to install one new outlet, but you can add several by following similar steps. Kitchens need to be on a dedicated 20-amp circuit and require 12-gauge wire. Today, 12-gauge wire is wrapped in a yellow sheath, but your old cable may be white. New circuits in kitchens need both arc fault and ground fault circuit interruption (AFCI, GFCI) protection. In this story, we’re adding an outlet to a kitchen that already has GFCI protection, which has been required for many years. If your kitchen is not on a 20-amp circuit, or doesn’t have GFCI protection, you’ll have to install a new circuit or circuit breaker. For more information, check out Breaker Box Safety: How to Connect a New Circuit. Also, discuss your project with your local electrical inspector when you apply for a permit. If adding a circuit still seems above your pay grade, then call an electrician.

The first step is to shut off the power. If your breaker panel is poorly labeled, plug a radio into the outlet you plan to pull power from, and start shutting down breakers until the music stops. There may also be wires from other circuits in the junction box, so probe the box with a noncontact voltage tester (try the Klein-NCVT-1) before you disconnect any wires. Cover the ends of the existing wires with wire nuts as an additional precaution.

Caution: If you discover aluminum wiring, call in a licensed electrician who is certified to work with it. This wiring is dull gray, not the dull orange that is characteristic of copper wire.

Remove the existing box

It’s easier to fish the new cable if you remove the existing box in the wall. Fiberglass boxes can be busted out with a hammer and a chisel or sturdy screwdriver. It’s best to cut the nails on plastic boxes with a hacksaw. Start by probing with a screwdriver to find which side of the box the stud is on. Then pry the screwdriver between the stud and the box to make room for the saw blade.

Note: Metal boxes are difficult to remove without creating some drywall repairs. Before you attempt it, see if you can fish the cable down through the existing metal box into the hole in the cabinet.

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