Do No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets Actually Work?

They look simple, but conventional curtain rods that attach to drywall can be surprisingly difficult to install correctly. Trust me on thisI’ve done this installation many times in clients’ houses and my own. No-drill curtain rod brackets are potentially a great labor-saving alternative, and they help avoid the need to patch holes in drywall when you change the window covering or move out of a rental property.

But do they actually work?

No problem there, says interior designer Jodi Peterman. “They are a great solution for lightweight to medium-weight curtains.” Real estate investor Robert Shepard agrees, but he cautions to choose wisely. Several different types are available, and they can’t all handle the same weight. And when it comes to super-heavy soundproofing or blackout curtains, you’re probably better off with conventional brackets.

Here’s a rundown of the types of no-drill curtain rod brackets available and when to use them.

What Are No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets?

The name says it all. No-drill curtain rod brackets can support curtains without the help of fasteners driven into the drywall. “How do they do that?” you ask. Well, that depends on the type of brackets you choose.

Types of No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets

Some no-drill curtain rod hangers hook onto the window casing or onto blinds already mounted in the window, some stick to the drywall or window casing and some are spring-loaded and anchor themselves to the inside of the window frame by tension.

Tap Brackets

These metal brackets fit around the corners of the window casing and have support pins that you tap into the casing with a hammer. For long windows, there’s a center bracket with pinned wings on either side.

The best-known (and maybe only) brand is Kwik-Hang. “They work with any wooden window frame that’s at least 1/2 inch wide and can hold up to 20 lbs, making them both sturdy and renter-friendly,” says Peterman.

• How they work: You set the bracket in place on the corner or center of the window casing and tap the pins into the wood with a hammer. It’s simpleit takes just a few minutes. When it’s time to remove them, you simply pry them up with a screwdriver.

Self-Adhesive Hangers

These hangers are treated with a strong adhesive that instantly bonds to any flat surface. The most common brand is Command, but there are others. Shepherd says they can hold lightweight curtain rods and are “particularly popular among renters who want to avoid wall damage.”

• How they work: Remove the backing from the hanger, set it on a clean, flat surface and press down, and the hanger remains in place until you remove it.

Magnetic Hangers

If you have metal windows or window casings, magnetic hangers may be just what you need. “They are extendable and can be adjusted to fit various window sizes,” says Shepherd.

• How they work: Magnetic hangers attach themselves automatically to any metal surface, and the magnetic attraction is strong enough to support lightweight curtains.

Tension Rods

You’ve probably seen these used for shower curtains, and you may already be using them in your own bathroom. They also work to hang curtains in your windows.

• How they work: Tension rods consist of two separate rods, one inserted inside the other and connected by a spring. When you adjust a tension rod to the proper length, you can compress it, fit it inside the window frame, and it will lock against the sides of the frame when you release it.

Mini-Blind Curtain Rods

If you have an existing mini-blind, you can install metal brackets on the header and hang curtains from there. Nono Brackets is a leading brand.

• How they work: The metal brackets have a U-shaped clamp that affixes to the header of the blind. Once secured, you set the curtain rod in the brackets, and the curtain is supported by the blind.

No-Drill Curtain Rod Bracket Pros and Cons

Pros

• Time-saving: Conventional curtain rod brackets in drywall can be installed in 30 minutes, but no-drill brackets usually take less than five minutes.
• Labor-saving: No need to drill, locate wall studs or install screw anchors when you can’t find a stud.
• Inexpensive: You shouldn’t have to pay more than about $20 for each curtain you want to hang.
• Leave no trace: In most cases, you can remove no-drill curtain rods without having to patch the wall.

Cons

• Limited strength: No-drill curtain rods generally can’t support heavy curtains. Tap brackets can support heavier curtains than the others, but they depend on the stability of the window casing.
• Possibility of failure: Adhesive and magnetic rods, as well as tension rods, can fail over time, and the curtains can fall. In particular, adhesive hangers won’t hold well on rough surfaces, such as textured drywall.
• Possible wall damage: When you remove adhesive brackets, they may pull off paint, and tension rods can make indentations in drywall-framed window frames.

Do No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets Really Work?

Yes, they work, but Shepherd cautions that their effectiveness can vary based on the type of wall or window frame and the weight of the curtains. Tap brackets can support the most weight, but they only work if the window is framed with wood casing.

• Pro tip: Because tap brackets attach directly to the casing, the curtains won’t be level if the casing isn’t level, and you’ll notice a difference in the gap between the bottom of the curtains and the floor.

Are No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets Right for My Project?

As long as your curtains weigh less than 20 pounds and your windows have wood casing, tap brackets are a no-brainer. They’re easy to install and painless to remove. If your window has no casing but a blind, mini-blind curtain rod brackets are also a good alternative to fixed brackets. On a scale of 1 to 10, I’d give these options 9 or 10.

On the other hand, adhesive brackets and tension rods probably wouldn’t rate higher than 6 or 7. These hangers work, but they aren’t as reliable, and a good tug by one of your kids or pets could bring your curtains crashing down. When it’s time to remove them, the possibility of having to touch up the paint is about fifty-fifty if you aren’t really careful.

No-Drill Curtain Rod Bracket Tips & Tricks

• Affix your window casing securely if you’re going to use tap brackets. If your curtains are on the heavy side, consider adding a few extra nails or, better yet, trim screws.
• Check the level of the top window casing before using tap brackets. If the casing is tilted, shim up the bracket on the low side with cardboard to make the curtain rod level.
• When using a tension rod on a window with a drywall frame, prevent dents by inserting small cardboard squares between the ends of the rod and the frame.
• Before affixing adhesive brackets to a wall or window frame, clean the surface first with alcohol to remove oils and help the brackets adhere better.
• Don’t use adhesive brackets on textured drywall. They adhere best to flat surfaces.

About the Experts

• Robert Shepherd is the founder of Peak & Home Partners, a real estate investment company based in Maryland.
• Jodi Peterman is the CEO of Elizabeth Erin Designs, a premier full-service residential, commercial, and vacation rental interior design firm.

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