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Thursday, February 29, 2024

10 Expert Tips for How to Use a Wood Router

Biscuit Joinery Without A Biscuit Joiner Fh06nov 473 50 044

Biscuit Joinery Without a Biscuit Joiner

If you want to make biscuit joints, you don’t have to buy a biscuit joiner. In most cases, a wood router with a 5/32-in. slot bit can cut perfect slots to fit the biscuits. Here’s how to do it:

Mark the biscuit positions on both adjoining boards as you would with a biscuit joiner. Then cut a slot that’s about 1/2-in. longer than the biscuit. On thick boards, you don’t even have to mark out anything; just cut one quick, continuous slot on each board. Add glue and biscuits, then clamp it to create a strong joint.

There are two situations where a router can’t substitute for a biscuit joiner. A wood router can cut slots only along the edges of a board, not across its face. And it can only cut along square edges, not beveled ones.

Most slot cutters cut about 1/2-in. deep, which suits No. 20 biscuits. If you want to use smaller biscuits, buy a kit that includes three bearing sizes for No. 0, No. 10 and No. 20 biscuits.



Article source here: 10 Expert Tips for How to Use a Wood Router

How To Stain Furniture

Choose a stain

You have four general options for staining furniture, each with certain benefits:

  • Water-based stain: This kind is beginner-friendly because it cleans up easily with water, dries in two to four hours and creates fewer fumes. Consider this for low-traffic pieces (i.e., things that won’t be touched a lot).
  • Oil-based stain: Best for high-traffic areas, like table tops and cabinet fronts, because it offers thicker, stronger coverage. It requires mineral spirits for clean-up and takes four to six hours to dry.
  • Oil-based gel stain: This is an intensely pigmented stain, recommended for hard-to-stain woods like maple, poplar and veneers. Requires mineral spirits for clean-up and six to eight hours of dry time.
  • Hard wax oil stain: A new, slightly higher-priced stain that allows the wood to more fully absorb the finish in just one coat, with no topcoat required. Kreps swears by it, Rubio Monocoat in particular. It’s best on finer woods like walnut and mahogany to let the natural beauty of the wood show through. Mineral spirits clean-up with a 24-hour dry time.

Stain tins placed on a wooden table



Article source here: How To Stain Furniture

Cool New Shrubs To Grow in Your Yard

Hibisqs Tropical Hibiscus

HibisQs Tropical Hibiscus

New from Costa Farms, this line features something hibiscus are not known for: long-lasting flowers.

While a typical hibiscus flower lasts a day, those on HibisQs persist for two, three or even four days, depending on the variety and the climate. Plants also have better branching for a fuller, lusher look that offers more flowers over the growing season.

“In frost-free regions, HibisQs varieties are excellent flowering hedges, foundation plants and as evergreen, year-round-flowering shrubs in mixed beds and borders,” says Hancock.

“In colder zones, they stay much smaller since they have just the one growing season, and can be effectively used as annuals in beds and borders, or as container plants to beautify balconies, decks, patios and porches.”

Selections in the series include:

  • Adonicus Pink, with five-inch-wide rich-pink flowers;
  • Apollo Garden, a stunner with five- to six-inch-wide orange flowers edged in golden yellow;
  • Constellation Ursa, producing a bounty of five-inch-wide flowers, up to twice as many as older varieties;
  • Grace, which shows off six-inch-wide pink flowers edged in white and bearing rich, reddish-pink centers.

HibisQs Tropical Hibiscus (H. rosa-sinensis) is from the Malvaceae family and grows two to four feet tall and wide, depending on variety. It likes full sun and moist, well-drained soil with slightly acid pH. Plants, which flower all summer if given enough light, come in a range of colors (see above). Hardy in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 10 and 11, they can be grown as an annual or overwintered indoors in cold climates.

“Their tropical nature even makes them suitable as houseplants if you have a high-light spot for them inside,” Hancock says. “High light levels will ensure the plants stay healthy, don’t get too stretched over winter and produce occasional blooms.”



Article source here: Cool New Shrubs To Grow in Your Yard

9 Clamp Storage Ideas to Declutter Your Workshop

Clamp Storage Ideas Pipe Clamp Cradle

Pipe Clamp Cradle

This handy undermount rack keeps your clamps right where you need them. Simply cut a series of 1-1/4-in.-dia. holes along the center line of a 2×6, then rip the 2×6 in half to create the half-circle slots.

Next, screw 1×4 sides and top to the cradle and screw it to the bottom of your workbench.



Article source here: 9 Clamp Storage Ideas to Declutter Your Workshop

Tuesday, February 27, 2024

Yeti’s New Stackable Cups Are the Perfect Camp Coffee Accessory

I didn’t start drinking coffee until my late 20s. To be frank, I didn’t need the added energy, nor did I enjoy the taste. However, as I got older, I soon realized that I simply hadn’t found the type of coffee that suited me. Finding my perfect roast was similar to Goldilocks finding the perfect porridge. It had to be just right. Once I found my brew, I started adding to my coffee collection by way of coffee makers, frothers and other accessories.

And one of my favorite accessories is the coffee mug. In my kitchen, you’ll find cutesy mugs personalized with movie quotes from a throwback era or popular lyrics from a ’90s earworm. Adding a new mug to my collection has become somewhat of a pastime. So, when Yeti released a line of stackable mugs, I knew they needed to be the new staples under my coffee machine. After sipping on the Yeti Rambler Stackable Mugs I can safely say they fit perfectly inside my Goldilocks Zone.

What are the Yeti Stackable Cups?

Yetis New Stackable Cups under coffee machine

The Yeti stackable cup is a mug you didn’t know you needed. Brought to you by the brand known for its ramblers and coolerstwo of the best Yeti products aroundthe stackable mugs are much smaller but still ideal for a morning brew at home or on the go. Alongside tumblers, bottles and travel mugs, these cups are the latest editions in the Yeti coffee lineup.

Choose between a 4- or 6-ounce pair that you can stack for easy storage in your Yeti Loadout GoBox. The 4-ounce mugs are handle-free, while the 6-ounce versions feature a firm-grip handle for easy toting. Both options come in eight colorways, including rescue red and camp green.

Moreover, the mugs utilize the DuraSlip ceramic lining that the brand is known for, adding to the durability of the insulated stainless steel. Basically, these mugs don’t just look goodthey’re tough, too. Additionally, the interior features a nonstick coating that keeps coffee stains at bay. But the stackable mugs are also dishwasher-safe, so you can spend less time cleaning up.

Their small capacity is intentional, as the barista-friendly mugs fit under most espresso machines. Whether sitting at your kitchen island or in the back of your camper with your Yeti Roadie, these mugs are the perfect warm-beverage companions.

Pros

  • Fits under most espresso machines
  • Stackable for easy storage
  • Dishwasher-safe
  • DuraSlip ceramic lining
  • Firm-grip handle
  • Kitchen-grade stainless steel
  • Puncture- and rust-resistant
  • BPA-free
  • 5-year warranty
  • Available in six core colors and two limited-edition colors
  • Available in two sizes: 4 ounce and 6 ounce

Cons

  • Cups don’t come with lids (but the 6-ounce mug is compatible with the 10-ounce MagSlider Lid, sold separately)
  • Mugs don’t keep coffee as hot as larger tumblers

Editor's Pick

Yeti Stackable Cups

This pack of two ultra-durable mugs is sized for strong brews and perfect pours.

Why I Love the Yeti Stackable Cups

Coffee filling in Yetis New Stackable Cups

I simply can’t get enough of these perfectly sized mugs. In the morning, I brew a 12-ounce macchiato or cappuccino in my regular coffee cup. By the afternoon, I need a pick-me-up, but I don’t want to overload on caffeine. That’s where these mugs shine. I place my Yeti stackable cup under the machine and make an espresso that powers me through the rest of the evening.

Furthermore, when I want to have some fun on the weekends, I opt for a creamy affogato with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and a hefty pouring of espresso. I make enough for two so that both my partner and I can enjoy this dessert straight out of our Yeti mugs.

These won’t hold as much coffee as their larger tumbler counterparts, like the leakproof BruMate Era. However, what the Yeti stackable cups lack in size, they make up for in convenience. Pack these mugs for your next outdoor adventure with grab-and-go ease. Since they come as a pair, you have 12 usable ounces to brew an Americano in one and a Ristretto in another.

As it’s not a large size, I don’t have to worry about my coffee getting cold before I can finish drinking it. Plus, the insulation keeps my beverage hot just as long as I need it to, and I can always add a compatible lid to the 6-ounce mug to maximize heat retention. If you fancy cozying up with the warmth of your mug, then consider the 4-ounce option that’s handle-free.

But Don’t Take My Word for It!

Holding Yetis New Stackable Cup in forest area

Overall, reviewers on both the Yeti website and Amazon are taken with the Yeti stackable cups for their coffee and tea.

“Absolutely LOVE these small mugs. They are made so well (of course) and are just the right size for our nightly tea before bed,” writes Sanaz S. on the Yeti website. “Totally different vibe than our rough and ready Yeti products, but still tough and durable, yet cute!”

Chrissy Ann writes, “These are the perfect size for a double espresso and cream. Bought these for my husband for Valentines Day not realizing the package came with two mugs so very happy.”

And Joyce Dem shares in her five-star review, “These are too cute and functional. The coffee stays hot way longer and the handle design is comfortable. We bought them for camping but now use them every day.”

“Very nice. I really just love them. I was so excited to get them. They were much cuter and nicer than I imagined. Very pleased,” writes a verified Amazon purchaser. “I hope Yeti continues to make more coffee, bar and camping-style items. Huge fan of compact, efficient and durable on-the-go items.”

Where to Buy Yeti Stackable Cups

Editor's Pick

Yeti Stackable Cups

The Yeti Rambler 6-ounce stackable mugs are just the right size for an Americano in the kitchen and a Cortado at the campsite.

Find the Yeti stackable cup on the brand’s website and start sipping your favorite flat white or doppio. The mugs are also available on Amazon, Public Lands, Scheels and Dick’s Sporting Goods for $35 per pair. These mugs aren’t too big or too smallthey’re just right for an at-home espresso or cortado on the go, so get into your Goldilocks era!



Article source here: Yeti’s New Stackable Cups Are the Perfect Camp Coffee Accessory

Monday, February 26, 2024

Why Higher OSHA Fines Are Coming In 2024

Bad news is coming for safety violators: The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has increased the maximum penalty for violations.

But what do these higher OSHA fines mean, and how much are they? Here’s a quick breakdown on these job site changes.

Why Is OSHA Increasing Fines?

As the cost of living has increased, businesses have increased their rates and prices to keep up. The result: A gap between what the businesses are now making, and what OSHA can collect in fines. At the same time, the government’s operation costs are increasing, so it must raise fees and penalties to make up the difference.

The fine increases should improve safety for workers. While companies should focus on the safety in any conditions, the smaller the fine, the less incentive there is for them to keep their workers safe. While the amount is truly marginal compared to the value of life, the increases should discourage corner-cutting on safe work environments.

But it’s important to remember these increases are the result of occupational safety and health laws violations. Companies with a keen eye for safety should be largely unaffected by the policy, though accidents do happen. And these are fines for violations, not accidents, which means they’re primarily a pre-emptive measure to keep workers safe.

How Much Are OSHA Fines Increasing?

On the whole, OSHA fines are increasing 3.2% from 2023 to 2024. This rate hardly keeps up with inflation and the cost of living. But it may prevent companies from losing their focus on safety while helping the government cope with increasing operational costs.

Also, the 3.2% bump is much smaller than the 7.7% increase OSHA imposed from 2022 to 2023.

The fee increases depending on the type of occurrence:

  • The maximum amount for a violation will increase from $15,625 to $16,131 per occurrence.

  • The maximum amount for a willful or repeated violation will increase from $156,259 to $161,323 per violation.

When Will the New Fees Go Into Effect?

They already have.

Under the Federal Civil Penalties Inflation Adjustment Act (FCPIAA), any agency increasing fees is required to publish rules and make annual adjustments for inflation no later than January 15 each year.

This year, because January 15 was a federal holiday (Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Day) and government offices were closed, the new penalties went into effect the next day.

The Top 10 OSHA Violations for 2023

OSHA keeps track of all cited violations each year. In the fiscal year ending September 30, 2023, the following violation types were most common:

  1. Fall protection violations general requirements: 7,271;

  2. Hazard communication violations: 3,213;

  3. Ladder violations: 2,978;

  4. Scaffolding violations: 2,859;

  5. Powered industrial truck violations: 2,561;

  6. Lockout/tagout violations: 2,554;

  7. Respiratory protection violations: 2,481;

  8. Fall protection violations training requirement: 2,112;

  9. Personal protective and lifesaving equipment violations eye and face protection: 2,074;

  10. Machine guarding violations: 1,644.

What Can Companies Do?

Companies should continue to make workplace safety a top priority for their employees. Violations and citations are overwhelmingly avoidable with the right training, equipment and safety personnel.



Article source here: Why Higher OSHA Fines Are Coming In 2024

What Is Anti-Seize Compound and Why Should I Use It on My Car?

Corroded, frozen or seized parts and hardware can quickly turn an inexpensive 10-minute fix into an all-day, really costly repair.

When working as a technician for a Pontiac dealership many years ago, I cringed every time I worked on a Trans Am. Fabulous cars, yes. But their honeycomb wheels were made from cast aluminum.

As Don Sutliff, product specialist at Permatex, explained to me, when water and road salts got behind those wheels, corrosion buildup would “mechanically weld” the wheels to the steel and cast-iron axle hub. That made the wheels, as well as brake drums, impossible to remove.

This is when I first learned about anti-seize compounds, and how they keep rust and corrosion at bay. That’s why I always have some in my toolbox. As auto repair specialist John Alcaro told me, “Using anti-seize makes any suspension fasteners exposed to the elements easier to remove.”

About the Experts

Don Sutliff, is the senior product specialist at Permatex Inc., in Solon, Ohio, one of the world’s leaders in automotive chemicals, sealants and adhesives. He has firsthand experience with anti-seize compounds from working in the specialty chemical industry.

John Alcaro has been an Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) master technician for 43 years. He serves as the senior automotive technology instructor at North Montco Technical Career Center in Lansdale, Pennsylvania.

What Is Anti-Seize Compound?

Anti-seize compound is a product that seals and protects metal fasteners and other parts when exposed to high temperatures, pressures, acids, alkalis and harsh caustic chemicals. Made from base and synthetic lubricants, it contains highly refined graphite and micro-metals.

Anti-seize compound is used in automobiles, marine and industry applications to protect metal parts and fittings from corrosion and pitting, wear, galling or seizing together.

What Does Anti-Seize Lubricant Do?

It coats metal parts and components to seal out moisture, road salts and dirt. This prevents metal assemblies especially two unlike metals from seizing together.

“Applying anti-seize compound helps reduce frustration when disassembling parts where threads are susceptible to corrosion,” Alcaro says.

This also applies to frequently removed fasteners. Anti-seize compound provides consistent thread torquing, decreasing part and component failure, reducing overall maintenance and repair costs.

How Does Anti-Seize Compound Work?

By preventing electrolysis, a chemical reaction generating an electrical current that passes between metal parts via rain, salt air or salt water.

The current causes the metal parts to release corrosion-causing oxides. The oxides made metals swell (think of rusted rebar cracking through concrete), corrode, rust and mechanically lock onto each other.

“Using anti-seize on parts and fasteners that experience extreme heating and cooling periods [aka thermal cycling], such as exhaust flanges, helps increase their lifespan,” Sutliff says. Alcaro also recommends using anti-seize on engine head bolts.

Types of Anti-Seize Compound

Different types of anti-seize compounds are used for specific applications.

  • Aluminum: Recommended by Alcaro, anti-seize compound is most often used on aluminum. It allows for easy part disassembly and assembly, including engine, exhaust, steering and suspension components. Don’t use with carbon steel.
  • Copper: Prevents seizing in high temperature conditions while providing good electrical conduction. Best used on exhaust bolts and flanges, oxygen sensors and fuel filter connectors. Don’t use with stainless steel.
  • Nickel: Recommended for use with stainless steel, titanium, nickel and other alloys. It protects metals under high pressure and temperatures, and where copper contamination should be avoided.
  • Molybdenum disulfide(aka moly): Contains no copper or aluminum, so it’s used under extreme pressure and temperature applications.

Is Brake Grease an Anti-Seize Compound?

No. Brake grease lacks the protective materials found in anti-seize compounds. Although anti-seize compound is commonly applied to contact areas between the brake caliber and the steering knuckle, don’t use anti-seize in place of brake grease.

Can I Use WD-40 Instead of Anti-Seize Compound?

No. WD-40 is different from anti-seize compound. WD-40 is a water-dispersant and lubricant that can remove rust, but it’s not intended to withstand high temperatures or pressures. Also, it can attract dirt and dust which can hold onto moisture, resulting in unwelcome corrosion and wear.

Can You Use Too Much Anti-Seize Compound?

Yes! Don’t slather anti-seize compound all over the place.

“Use anti-seize sparingly,” Alcaro says. “Apply a thin coat, just enough to fill the threads at the end of a bolt [not the entire length of the bolt] and especially under the bolt head.”

How Long Does Anti-Seize Compound Last?

Sutliff says seven years. I’ve seen it last even longer.

To extend the life of anti-seize products:

  • Clean the brush, glove (I like to use my finger to control the amount I’m applying) or tool before dipping it into a jar to prevent dirt or debris from contaminating the compound.
  • Tightly seal the cover to keep dust and moisture out and store in a cool, dry place.

Pro Tips for Using Anti-Seize Compound

  • Follow manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Wear eye protection and disposable gloves.
  • Choose the correct type anti-seize for your project.
  • Clean or repair nut, bolt and internal threads with a wire brush. Use a thread restorer if the threads are damaged. And clean with a degreaser to remove dirt and oil.
  • Compensate for anti-seize compound’s lubricating qualities by reducing torque 20% to 25%.
  • Carefully remove all corrosion and debris from mating surfaces to avoid part misalignment.
  • Wipe excess anti-seize compound to stop gunk build up.
  • According to NGH Spark Plugs, spark plugs plated with nickel or zinc offer protection against corrosion should be installed dry, without anti-seize compound. “Dabbing a small amount of copper anti-seize on spark plugs with black oxide threads [is fine],” Alcaro says.
  • Sutliff says Permatex doesn’t recommend using anti-seize on lug nuts due to its extremely low coefficient of friction.


Article source here: What Is Anti-Seize Compound and Why Should I Use It on My Car?

Saturday, February 24, 2024

Why Are Your Dishwasher Pods Not Dissolving?

Consumers love convenience. Is it smaller, easier, more efficient? Sign us up.

Doing the dishes got three seconds faster once we compacted detergent into a pod, because pods take the guesswork out of it. No mess, no measuring. But there’s one drawback: Sometimes dishwasher detergent pods don’t dissolve all the way.

If you eagerly embraced pods only to find gunky plastic film stuck in your detergent compartment, or a sad puddle of undissolved detergent in the bottom of your machine, we can help.

“Several factors can contribute to dishwasher pods not dissolving properly during a wash cycle,” says Alicia Sokolowski, president and co-CEO of AspenClean, which sells dishwasher detergent pods.

We talked to Sokolowski and dishwasher expert Haven Polich to learn why pods don’t dissolve, and what you can do about it.

About the Experts

Haven Polichis a product manager at Asko Appliances, a Scandinavian-inspired luxury kitchen and laundry appliance maker.

Alicia Sokolowski is the president and co-CEO of AspenClean, a maker of environmentally conscious and cruelty-free cleaning products, including dishwasher detergent pods.

7 Reasons Why Your Dishwasher Pods Are Not Dissolving

Pods are convenient, but if they don’t work, what’s the point? Here are some potential culprits:

Water temperature

“Dishwasher pods are designed to dissolve efficiently in hot water,” Sokolowski says.

Water coming into your dishwasher from the hot water supply is likely around 120 degrees, which prevents corrosion but isn’t hot enough to scald. Polich says dishwashers use a heating element to bump up that temperature as high as 160 degrees. So if that’s not happening due to a faulty heating element, thermostat or even your home’s water heater the pod may not dissolve.

Too-short cycle

Quick and eco-friendly cycles save water and time. Unfortunately, they could also be why your pods aren’t dissolving, Sokolowski says.

Though detergent pods can be used in all cycles, you might find there isn’t enough time for the pod to fully dissolve, depending on the specific quirks of your machine or water conditions.

Some short cycles use lower water temperatures, too, and may not provide enough heat to dissolve the pod completely, Sokolowski says a double whammy.

Water flow

So, we know pods need heat to dissolve. They also need water. “Insufficient water flow or pressure in the dishwasher can prevent the pod from dissolving properly,” Sokolowski says.

If you’ve loaded your dishwasher the right way and nothing’s blocking water from reaching your detergent pod, it might be a mechanical problem. If water’s not circulating, Polich says, “it could be anything from a broken spray arm to a failing circulation pump.” Get it checked out by a certified technician. Or fix it yourself, if you’re handy.

Pod placement

If you’re still finding half-dissolved pods when the cycle’s over, make sure you’re putting the pod in the right place.

“Pods are typically designed to be placed in the detergent dispenser, or a designated compartment in the dishwasher,” Sokolowski says. Put the pod where you normally put the powder and liquid detergent, at least to start (we’ll troubleshoot more later).

Newer dishwasher? Look for a separate compartment specifically for pods. Follow the directions in your use and care manual for best results.

Hard water

Even the best dishwashers struggle against hard water. Polich says it’s important to keep your dishwasher clean and free of mineral buildup by running a self-clean or sanitize cycle periodically. Add a cup of vinegar to the bottom rack, or use a commercial descaler, especially in hard water areas.

Sokolowski says pods themselves can react with minerals in hard water, too, forming a film or buildup that prevents the pod from completely dissolving. Descaling your dishwasher makes pods dissolve better, Sokolowski says.

Detergent age or storage conditions

Dish detergent is shelf stable, but it’s important to use and store it correctly. “Dishwasher pods can lose effectiveness if they are old, or have been stored improperly,” Sokolowski says.

Close the box or inner sleeve to keep them dry between dishwasher cycles. Moisture can reduce the efficacy of the detergent, and cause the film or the detergent to dissolve too soon. If the pods fuse together, they’re staying that way.

Blocking the detergent compartment

Make sure you’re not blocking the detergent compartment by loading your dishwasher wrong, Polich says.

Cookie sheets, cutting boards and casseroles should go along the sides, tilting slightly inward and down toward the spray. Make sure the spray arm can freely spin. If larger items block the spray or movement of the arm, remove and wash by hand.

Don’t jam in every dish, either. “Always leave enough space for water to circulate freely around the dishes and detergent dispenser,” Sokolowski says.

What To Do When Your Dishwasher Pods Aren’t Dissolving

It’s often trial and error, depending on what’s going on. Here are some solutions to try:

  • Clean your dishwasher:Vinegar, citric acid and commercial descalers are good options.
  • Turn up the temperature:Change cycle settings from low to high heat.
  • Choose a longer cycle:Eco-friendly cycles may be too short for pods.
  • Fix broken parts: If you suspect water isn’t getting hot, or the dishwasher is malfunctioning, have it checked out.
  • Keep pods and compartment dry:Sticky pods or wet spots can gunk up the compartment, preventing full release.

FAQs

Is it better to use dishwasher pods, powder or liquid detergent?

It’s really up to you, according to the experts. “Dishwasher pods, powder and liquid detergent all have their own advantages and disadvantages,” Sokolowski says.

Pods are convenient.There’s no measuring, and no mess. Powder often has earth-friendly cardboard packaging, while liquid is easy to pour.

Can you throw dishwasher pods into the bottom of the dishwasher?

Yes, but read your use and care manual to see what’s recommended. Polich says this may be a solution if your pod’s not dissolving. But if you notice your dishes aren’t getting clean, you may have to investigate another option.



Article source here: Why Are Your Dishwasher Pods Not Dissolving?

Friday, February 23, 2024

11 Pro Tips for How To Paint Trim

Walls, windows, floors and doors have a few things in common. First, they’re all surrounded by trim. And they’re also subject to daily wear and tear that can take a real toll on your home’s appearance. Think of trim as the framework that lets the rest of your home shine, almost like a framed piece of art.

“Trim borders everything and makes the whole space look cleaner,” says Todd Berry, a pro painting project coordinator. That’s why homeowners should take care of trim showing obvious signs of damage.

Luckily, painting trim is something almost every homeowner can handle, according to Steve Hester, a painting company vice president. As long as the homeowner follows directions and takes their time to complete the task properly, he says, they’re more than capable of painting trim. Those who feel unsure of their ability and patience should reach out to a professional.

If you’re ready to take on a DIY trim painting project, read these 11 pro tips first.

About the Experts

Todd Berry is project coordinator at Emerald Paintingin Kaneohe, Hawaii.

Steve Hesteris the vice president of Hester Painting & Decorating, servicing the Chicago metropolitan area.

Nick Slavic is the owner ofNick Slavik Painting and Restoration Co. in New Prague, Minnesota. He has more than 25 years experience as a professional painter.

Take Proper Safety Precautions

If you’re not sure if the paint currently on your trim is lead-free, test it. “If the home was built prior to 1978,” Hester says, “you should follow the Environmental Protection Agency’s rules for lead paint safety.”

Once you know your trim paint is lead-free, you can paint it without worry.

Start By Washing the Trim

After basic floor and furniture protection and site prep to contain dust and odors, Slavic says, “We typically wash trim before sanding. Grease and grime on the trim can gum up sandpaper.”

Next, Sand the Trim

A person using sandpaper on a pipe

Berry says most homeowners can stick to 220-grit sandpaper. But if your trim is in really rough shape, start with 80-grit before moving on to 100-grit for smoothing and blending in the areas with layered paint. Then go over all the wood with 120 grit.

“Giving it a proper sanding will make sure the surface is smooth,” Berry says. That makes it easier to apply the paint evenly, which can cut down on the time to finish the project.

Properly Prime the Trim

“I’m a firm believer that trim should be primed first, then caulked,” Slavik says.

Hester says you should always prime raw surfaces before caulking or patching. Berry agrees, adding oil primer is the best choice for raw wood trim you’re likely to find in new builds.

“We prime everything, or do an adhesion test to determine if priming is needed,” Slavik says. “When trim painting fails, it usually fails with adhesion.” He also recommends oil-based primer.

Fill Any Holes and Dents

A person applying wood filler to fill holes in a pipe

To repair large dents or gouges on edges vulnerable to abuse, use a hardening-type two-part wood filler. You can purchase wood filler online, buy it at a home improvement or hardware store, or take a stab at making your own.

Fill smaller dents and holes with spackling compound. Because spackling compound shrinks as it dries, you’ll need a second and possibly a third coat.

After each coat, shine a light across the woodwork to highlight depressions and ensure you didn’t miss any spots. Once you’re satisfied, let the filler dry and sand it smooth.

Caulk to Avoid Gaps and Cracks

A person using caulk to fill gaps and cracks in a window

“If there are any cracks or nail holes, that’s when you’ll want to start caulking,” Berry says. “Sealing those cracks can protect your trim from things like water damage in the future and make the paint job last longer.”

Use latex (acrylic) caulk or a paintable latex/silicone blend. Make sure to cut the caulk tube tip carefully to create a tiny hole. Fill all the small cracks first. Then, if you have wider cracks, recut the tip to make a larger hole.

Move the gun swiftly along the cracks to avoid excess caulk buildup. If necessary, smooth the caulk with your fingertip. Keep a damp rag in your pocket to clean caulk from your finger and keep the tube tip from gumming up. If caulk piles up in corners, remove the excess with a flexible putty knife.

If you’ve never caulked before, follow these expert-approved tips.

Choose the Right Paint

Most pros prefer oil-based paint on trim for two reasons.

First, it doesn’t dry as fast as water-based paint, which gives you more time to brush. And oil-based paint levels out better than most water-based paints, leaving a smoother surface with few visible brush marks. But because water-based paint is more environmentally friendly, less stinky and easier to clean, it’s often a better choice for DIYers.

Berry says most homeowners he works with choose a gloss finish for their trim because it’s easier to clean. Hester recommends higher end products with a satin enamel or semi-gloss finish, particularly from Benjamin Moore or Sherwin-Williams. Slavik notes he and his painters prefer water-based enamel because oil-based enamel isn’t readily available.

Paint From a Separate Bucket or Pail

Handy Paint Pail

Berry says it’s essential to work out of a different bucket or pail so you can easily bump or slap the brush against the side to remove excess paint. Paint gallon cans straight from the store are filled so close to the brim that it’s nearly impossible to do that.

Placing a small amount of paint in a pail also lets you easily load the bristles of the brush by dipping them about one inch into the paint. The extra control is essential when painting smaller areas like trim.

Use the Proper Brushstrokes to Paint Precisely

After years in the painting industry, Hester has one main suggestion for homeowners: Paint with precision.

“To keep paint from dripping or running on your trim, you need to put on an even coat of paint,” he says. “Don’t overload the brush with material. If there is a need for another coat, then add a second coat. Don’t try to make it cover in one coat because that can lead to runs.”

Start with cutting-in the edges

A peron painting edges of the wall

Cutting-in is a skill that takes practice to master, but its worth the effort.

To cut in, first load the brush. Then wipe off most of the excess paint by gently scraping the bristles on the edge of the paint bucket or pail.

Start by pulling the brush along the edge, but keep the bristles about 1/4-in. away from the wall or ceiling to deposit some paint on the wood. Now return with another brushstroke, this time a little closer. Sneaking up to the line like this is easier than trying to get it perfect on the first try.

At the end of the stroke, arc the brush away from the cut-in line. Cut in a few feet, then fill the middle using the lay-on, lay-off technique described in the next section.

Lay-on, lay-off technique

Painting a wall at home with a brush

To avoid visible brushstrokes, load your brush with paint, then quickly unload on the surface with a few back-and-forth brushstrokes. This is called laying on the paint. Repeat until youve covered a few feet of trim with paint. Dont worry about how it looks yet.

Now, without reloading the brush, drag the tips of the bristles over the wet paint in one long stroke to lay off the paint.

Start in the unpainted area and drag into the previously painted trim. Sweep your brush up off the surface at the end of each stroke. Areas wider than your brush will require several parallel laying-off strokes to finish.

When youre done laying off a section, move on and repeat the process, always working quickly to avoid brushing over partially dried paint. Try to complete shorter pieces of trim with a continuous laying-off brushstroke.

Dont Brush Across an Edge

A person paints a the edges of a wall with a brush

Brushing across an edge wipes paint from the bristles and creates a heavy buildup that will run or drip. Avoid this by brushing toward edges whenever possible.

If you must start a brushstroke at an edge, align the bristles carefully as if youre cutting-in, instead of wiping them against the edge. If you accidentally get a buildup of paint that could cause a run, spread it out right away with a dry paintbrush, or wipe it off with a damp rag or your finger.

Air Out the Area

Try to air out the space you’re painting between coats and when you’re finished. “If everything is closed up your home will smell like paint,” Berry says. “People with breathing issues or respiratory illnesses could be affected.”



Article source here: 11 Pro Tips for How To Paint Trim

Thursday, February 22, 2024

8 Stylish DIY Loft Bedroom Ideas

8 Stylish Diy Loft Bedroom Ideas Studio Loft Bedroom Courtesy @cartographh

Studio Loft Bedroom

This loft bedroom built by @cartographh and his wife Sarah was the perfect solution to the space limitations in their 500-square-foot studio. This DIY project maximizes the vertical space under the tall ceilings and complements their eclectic style.

Underneath the loft: A dresser, pegboard and hanging clothes rails provide even more clever space-saving storage solutions.



Article source here: 8 Stylish DIY Loft Bedroom Ideas

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

I Tried Anker’s Solix F3800 Portable Power Station with 240V Power

Portable power stations have become integral to my partner’s and my life. We use them while working off-grid to run tools and charge batteries. We rely on them, coupled with solar panels, to power our camping van conversion. And when a recent storm knocked out our home electricity, we plugged in our fridge to save hundreds of dollars in groceries. But until now, there was one thing our power stations couldn’t do for us: run our 240V welding machine. So when we heard that the Anker power station was coming out, we eagerly anticipated its arrival.

But that wasn’t the only treat this beast of a portable power station had in store. We soon learned many of its other strengths, including its capabilities as an affordable route to home power backup, which is one of the main chores Anker had in mind when they designed it.

“The frequency of power outages has surged by 64% over the past two decades, prompting individuals to seek more dependable energy solutions,” an Anker spokesperson told Family Handyman. “The F3800 can serve as a backup for homes that draw on AC power or solar. Just as importantly, it can also be used by apartment residents and home renters who cannot install a full solar solution, but still want peace of mind when the power goes out.”

If you’re considering portable power for home backup, work or recreationand especially if you’re looking to replace your noisy gas or diesel-powered generatorhere’s our take on whether the Anker Solix F3800 portable power station with 240V power is up for the job.

What is the Anker Solix F3800?

Anker's Solix F3800 Portable Power Station

The Solix F3800 is Anker’s newest high-capacity portable power station, featuring 3,840 watt-hours (Wh) plus 120V, 240V and 30-amp outlets. It’s designed to power tools, work trailers and RVs at off-grid sites, plus functions as a home backup system. It recharges via a standard wall outlet, portable or fixed solar panels, and a DC-DC converter installed in a vehicle.

Over the last year, we’ve tested at least a dozen portable power stations from various manufacturers, and Anker is consistently among our top brand picks, as the company is usually ahead of the game with its technology-to-cost ratio. For a while, our tried-and-true setup has been Anker’s Solix F2000 (formerly model 767), coupled with portable solar panels and, when necessary, an expansion battery. So when the dorm-fridge-sized box containing the F3800 arrived, we were anxious to find out if the new model would replace our current beloved arrangement.

Something Old

Off the bat, the Solix F3800 has many of the same hallmark features of other Anker power stations, like:

  • An anodized aluminum frame for durability if you happen to drop it
  • LFP (LiPo) lithium-based batteries protect against thermal runaways and provide many times the charge-cycle lifespan over some other manufacturers’ NMC batteries
  • Built-in fast-charging module, so there’s no bulky box on the power cord and it can draw in enough juice to charge it up in record time
  • A convenient, pleasantly warm-colored work light on the front panel

Something New

The Solix F3800 also incorporates some features new to Anker power stations:

  • 240V split-phase current, which can run power tools and appliances up to 25 amps
  • EV charging capabilities
  • Plug-and-play backup capabilities in case of a grid failure, with their add-on Home Power Panel and transfer switch accessory
  • Massive expansion capabilities: add up to six 3840Wh expansion batteries (or double that, if you link it together with a second F3800 and six more batteries), which all together is enough to power a typical 2,000-square-foot home, including lights, appliances and HVAC, for a couple of days (or to give an electric car another 87 miles of range)

It also looks a bit different than other Anker models, with a vertical (vs. horizontal) configuration. The look reminds me of a piece of carry-on luggage with four bottom wheels and a pull handle. Also, it stows away unobtrusively in the corner of the room, which is notable because even though it has similar watt-hours to our current setup, the F3800 takes up less room.

Knowing all of this, we had high expectations when we set out to test the Anker power station. Here’s what happened.

We Tried It

Anker Portable Power Station

Reliable and long-lasting, the Anker Solix F3800 can power several appliances simultaneously and is portable to take that power anywhere.

Solix F3800 Features

Ankers Solix F3800 Portable Power Station features

  • 3,840 Wh (3.8kWh) of built-in LFP battery capacity (expandable up to 53.8kWh)
  • 6,000-watt built-in power inverter for continuous use (12,000-watt capacity available by connecting two F3800 units)
  • Surge power peak of 9,000 watts
  • 240V split-phase current socket
  • Full uninterrupted power supply (UPS) capability (two 120V sockets in UPs mode)
  • Outlet sockets: 30-amp 120V, six 120V, USB-A, USB-C and 12V (auto-style)
  • 1,800W max input from AC charging
  • 2,400W max input from solar charging (up to 80% charge in 1.5 hours)
  • Solar inputs ports: XT 90 ports for portable panels, (two ports, 1,200W each)
  • 3,000-charge-cycle life
  • 5-year warranty, 10-year life expectancy
  • App (Bluetooth and Wi-Fi) for advanced feature controls
  • Home backup power integration system available (starting March 2024)
  • Equipped with NEMA 14-50 and L14-30 EV and RV charge outlets
  • Built-in solar charge controller
  • Four wheels, plus two stow-able pull handles so that it can be conveniently team-carried
  • 132 pounds

How We Tested It

Ankers Solix F3800 Portable Power Station tested

We didn’t ease into our testing with the Solix F3800. Instead, we went straight for the welder to see if it could run for a reasonable amount of time. We ran our Miller 180 aluminum welding machine (which draws 240V and requires 21 amps) straight for two minutes. During that time, it ate up a little less than 300 watt-hours. That means the F3800 could run the Miller continuously for more than 30 minutes. That’s ample time to complete minor field repairs. Pretty impressive!

Tools and Appliances

We then ran the F3800 through its paces on a series of other tool and appliance tests, including:

  • A power drill and chop saw, with which we built a scaffolding so we could reach our stairwell ceiling to paint it
  • Our electric lawnmower and weed whacker to clear our quarter-acre lot
  • A reciprocating saw to cut up firewood for a few nights of camping
  • Our clothes washer and dryer (it did a full cycle with both on less than a single charge)
  • Various other household items, including a hair dryer, microwave, cell phones and laptops

We also timed how long it took to recharge the unit to ensure the claims of superfast charging were accurate. They were. At our house, it recharged from dead in less than three hours, at 1800 watts per hour, from a standard wall outlet. However, we’ve learned that if your grid charging outlet is 20 amps, charging will be limited to 1440 watts per hour.

There are still two tests we would have loved to perform: using it to charge an EV and using it in conjunction with the home power panel accessory. We don’t yet have an EV, but we fully plan to test the home power panel once it’s available. So, stay tuned for the results on those, plus how the Anker power station performs on our upcoming 4,000-mile camping trek down the Baja California peninsula!

Ankers Solix F3800 Portable Power Station wheels closeup

Pros

  • Versatile and pro-capable, thanks to 120V and 240V outlets
  • Constant discharge rate regardless of the unit’s charge level
  • Highly intuitive and informative display
  • Sturdy, compact vertical design
  • Very mobile for its size with ample wheels and moving handles
  • Superfast AC charging at 1800 watt-hours, full charge in under three hours
  • Excellent company customer service
  • Affordable compared to other types of home backup systems

Cons

  • Expansion battery cables use a lot of space as they do not have 90-degree plugs
  • Only two 120V receptacles work when the unit is in UPS mode
  • Heavy for moving on and off of a work truck all day (though it’s still on the lighter side for a unit with this many watt-hours)

FAQ

Ankers Solix F3800 Portable Power Station ports

What is the difference between a portable power station and a power bank?

The term portable power bank generally refers to small devices that hold enough power to charge a smartphone, laptop or other personal electronic equipment through USB ports. On the other hand, portable power stations contain larger batteries, plus inverters, which (depending on the model) are capable of running appliances, power tools, CPAP machines, home lighting and more. Most portable power stations also integrate solar charge controllers so they can be recharged with solar panels.

How long does the F3800 last?

The Anker portable power station’s longevity depends on what you’re powering with it and how long. The Solix F3800 contains 3,800 watt-hours, which means if you’re using an 800-watt coffee maker, it will last for 4.75 hours (800 watt-hours x 4.75 hours = 3,800 watt-hours). However, if that coffee maker only needs to run for five minutes to brew a pot of coffee, that means you could brew 57 cups of coffee with those 3,800 watt-hours.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Dung B., a verified Anker buyer, writes, “Bought this a few weeks before the flood, and without it, I would be in the dark using candles. Instead, I was brewing specialty coffee gaming on my PS5.”

Five-star Amazon reviewer, Ronald Rivet, writes, “We bought ours and we love it because it powers our entire cabin! Its whisper quiet…My bathroom fan is like 10 times louder. I get over an entire day with the F3800/expansion battery and we plan on adding one more expansion battery.”

Product Comparison

So far, Anker makes the only portable power station in this class available in the U.S. By “in this class,” I mean a truly portable station with 240V and a powerhouse 6,000W inverter. The closest other options are:

  • Bluetti, which makes a 240V model that’s only available in Europe
  • EcoFlow’s Delta Pro advertises that it can support 240V, but to do that, you have to buy two of them, then hook them together using a “double voltage hub” (a phase converter, which will also boost the system to 7.2kWh with the equivalent of a 7,400W inverter). Otherwise, the Delta Pro features 3.6kWh and a 3,600W inverter, compared with the F3800’s 3.8kWh and 6,000W inverter.
  • A few other companies make power stations that support 240V, but they’re meant solely for use as home backup systems, not to double as portable power stations for work and recreation.

This isn’t surprising. Anker has been at the forefront of power station innovations for years, including being one of the first companies to use the safer LFP battery technology and to integrate features like built-in fast chargers.

Final Verdict

Ankers Solix F3800 Portable Power Station easy to carry

The Anker Solix F3800 portable power station with 240V capabilities is a cutting-edge, pro-level, versatile piece of equipment. It can power anything you need during a home electrical outage while remaining nimble enough to carry to remote sites to run tools, portable refrigerators, RVs and even give a boost to EVs. It’s durable, reliable, aesthetically charming and intuitive to use.

Another aspect we appreciate is Anker’s upfront advertisement of its features. There are no hidden accessories required to get it to charge at the speeds they promise or otherwise perform to top specs. Plus, Anker has truly helpful customer service and is the real deal when it comes to product research and development. That’s increasingly rare these days in this rapidly emerging technology sector, rife with pop-up companies eager to slap their brand on inferior products.

Where to Buy the Anker Power Station

We Tried It

Anker Portable Power Station

The Anker Solix F3800 is a power station with high AC output power and capacity and 120V/240V dual-voltage support to provide power for your entire home.

Currently, the F3800 is available on the brand’s website where it retails for $3,999. You can also find it on Amazon and Shop Solar.



Article source here: I Tried Anker’s Solix F3800 Portable Power Station with 240V Power

How To Get Rid of Maggots In Your Home

For those of us who stumbled upon a cache of maggots, it’s an unforgettable sight. There’s something particularly disgusting about them. Maybe it’s because they signal spoiled food or dead animals. Or maybe we just don’t see them often enough to normalize them as a regular process of nature.

Regardless, they make poor home companions, especially when they turn into flies. And because houseflies breed in just a few hours, maggots can perpetuate a cycle, leading to generations of infuriating, buzzing pests.

We asked two experts how to rid your home of maggots and stop the ensuing cycle of flies.

About the Experts

Eric Braun, a board-certified entomologist, has worked as a technical service manager for Terminix for nearly three decades.

Frank Meek is also a board-certified entomologist and 30-year veteran of the pest-control industry. He’s a technical services manager for Orkin.

What Are Maggots?

Maggots are baby flies, aka fly larvae. Legless, plump and white, they resembling tiny worms. You can usually see a black spot or two on one end. Those are their breathing holes.

If you look at them through a microscope, maggots actually look a little like walruses, with two hooks protruding from their toothless mouths.

“Some maggots are large enough to see, or they end up in visible areas of your house, but most don’t,” says Braun. “The most common ones we see come from houseflies.”

It’s typical to find up to a couple of hundred maggots at a time. After molting several times, they become pupae, their final life stage before becoming a fly.

Here’s the timeline of a maggot’s lifecycle:

  • A fly lays its eggs.
  • Eight to 20 hours later, the eggs hatch into maggots.
  • In three to seven days, maggots become pupae.
  • Three days to four weeks after that, pupae emerge as flies.

What Causes Maggots in the House?

Flies lay eggs in rotting meat and other spoiled organic matter, because those provide ample food for maggots. That means you’re most likely to find maggots in a garbage can, old cat food can or even a plate of food lost in a teenager’s bedroom for a few days.

In your yard, you might also find maggots in dog poo, a dead animal or the compost bin.

Will Maggots Eventually Go Away?

Technically, yes. If you ignore them long enough, a few things can happen:

  • They will turn into pupae, then into flies.
  • They will eat all their food source, so flies can no longer lay eggs there.
  • They will die if the weather changes and it gets too cold or dry for them to survive.

Still, you should get them out of your house ASAP. What they’re eating is unsanitary to have in your living space. Plus, they won’t remain maggots for long.

“Once they turn into adult flies, they will find a suitable food source, lay eggs and continue the cycle,” says Meek. “So while the maggots will go away, they might stay a nuisance as an adult fly.”

How To Kill Maggots Immediately

Meek and Braun recommend removing them with a vacuum or a paper towel. If they’re contained in something that’s easy to move, you can also relocate them away from the house. Outside, they’ll make a protein-packed meal for wildlife, including birds.

If you’re squeamish or if you can’t reach them with a vacuum, you can also kill maggots with:

  • A large dose of salt, which will dry them out;
  • White vinegar (three parts water, one part vinegar);
  • Boiling water;
  • Most pesticides. Use these as a last resort, to minimize chemicals in your home and prevent harm to wildlife that might eat the poisoned maggots.

If the situation feels more complicated, Meek recommends calling a pest control expert who can “comprehensively assess your unique situation and determine how the adult flies got into the structure.”

How To Prevent Maggots

Clean. Clean. Clean. To prevent maggots, and especially after you’ve removed them, cleaning is the key success. Get rid of anything that attracts flies. “Make sure there is no material for them to breed in and limit access to open food sources,” says Braun.

FAQs

Are maggots harmful to humans?

Not typically, but the decaying materials they’re eating could contain bacteria and pathogens. In some cases, flies can also transmit disease.

How long does it take for maggots to turn into flies?

It depends on the species, plus temperature and moisture conditions. In the fastest-case scenario, it’s about seven to 10 days, but it can take up to two months.

What are maggots attracted to?

Rotting organic matter, especially meat and other high-protein items like dead animals, feces and garbage.



Article source here: How To Get Rid of Maggots In Your Home

Here’s an Easy Hack To Prevent Your Windshield From Fogging Up

When you’re in a rush to get around in the morning, the last thing you want to deal with it a foggy car window. Sure, maybe you have a remot...