How To Prune a Tree for Maximum Health and Growth

Tools to prune tree branches

The size of the branch you are cutting should reflect the tool used to cut it. Here are a few tree trimming tools that make sense to have in your arsenal before you start pruning your tree:

• Pruning Shears: Good for branches up to 3/4-in. Thick
• Loppers: Are good for branches up to 2-1/2-in. Thick
• Pruning Saw: Use for branches from 1-1/2- to 5-in. thick
• Battery-operated pruning shears: These shears also come with extendable pole attachments for higher and harder-to-reach areas. They are surprisingly strong and can handle 1-in. – 1-1/2-in. branches.
• Long Pole Pruner (not pictured): Can handle 1-in. – 2-in. branches. Good for reaching dead and broken branches.  Eliminates the use of a ladder.  Most have two cutting options and an adjustable height handle.

Identify the trunk and skeleton of the tree

The trunk, also known as the central branch, is the most important part of a tree. It runs water up and down to all branches and is the core strength of the whole tree. If you must cut from the trunk, never cut more than 25% off the top.

Next, look at what is attached to the trunk.  You will see bigger, thicker branches, this is considered the skeleton of the tree. Try to remove as little as possible from the skeleton attached to the trunk.  Keep in mind you want to maintain a flow and nice shape to the tree.  Never just lop off the top without regard to the look of the tree. Professional tree trimmers often think of a semi-circle or pyramid shape where the tree tapers up and maintains its shape as it grows.

Prune from the ground up

Using pruning shears, start by cutting small waterspouts coming up from the base of the tree and any small suckers coming out of the trunk. Waterspouts may look like they are coming up from the ground, but are attached to the root ball. Suckers are the start of branches if they are left uncut. Identify them as small and thin new growth. Suckers start as small leaves, attaching to the central trunk and larger branches.

Both waterspouts and suckers absorb water before it can travel up the trunk to reach where it needs it. By trimming these you are focusing the water flow further up the tree to reach other branches.

Cut dead, diseased and broken branches

As you work your way up the trunk, identify all branches that “must go.”  These are non-negotiable branches that are obviously dead, broken or diseased and must be cut.  Work your way from the bottom up as high as you can go comfortably and safely without a ladder. This is where a battery-operated shear with an extendable pole truly comes in handy.

Thin out the canopy

Thin out the canopy by cutting branches that cross over each other and block light. These branches smother other branches, preventing light from filtering through to the rest of the tree. Never cut more than 25% of the total height of the tree. For an easy estimate, cut one out of every four to five branches. You want to create room for growth, which happens through light exposure. Loppers, battery-operated shears or a hand saw will all work well for this step.

Cut larger branches above the branch collar

When identifying larger and more mature branches to be cut, look for a slightly swollen bulge where the branch connects to the trunk, this is called the branch collar, and cut one inch above it, leaving the branch collar intact. Never cut the branch collar off and never cut the branch flush to the trunk. I like to think of the branch collar as a protective turtleneck that protect the tree.

Branch collars have healing components that protect against damage and loss. These healing chemicals are concentrated near a branch collar. By cutting an inch away from the branch collar, healing chemicals in the tree seal the cut or wound to prevent infection or the spread of decay. A branch collar is also a good sign that this is a strong and healthy part of the tree and is more likely to defend itself from the cut.

FAQ

Should I use pruning sealer?

No, if cut correctly and in the right place, a sealer is not needed because the tree has a built-in mechanism to protect itself and heal naturally. Using pruning sealers is controversial among gardeners. Some believe sealers are helpful, while others believe if the tree is healthy, it can naturally heal itself without a sealer.

How often should I prune a tree?

Light pruning can be done at the beginning of Spring to help shape the tree for the new season.  More aggressive pruning is best done before winter or the colder months.  You may find a need to trim back overgrowth, waterspouts and suckers about mid-summer.

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