What’s Hot in Home Colors: A DIYers Guide to the Latest Sherwin Williams Report

Much like the heavily anticipated colors of the year, the Sherwin-Williams bi-annual color report is a great way to get a feel for the upcoming color trends. Whether you’re a designer or a DIYer with an upcoming painting project, this report is a great way to get some inspiration for your next redesign. The predicted color trends for 2026 came out recently; find out what color families are likely going to take the spotlight next year.

What Is the Sherwin-Williams Bi-Annual Color Report?

In short, the Sherwin-Williams bi-annual color report is the brand’s announcement regarding color trends. The Trendsight Team looks at trends in design and puts together a packet detailing the hues that are getting traction. The brief also includes several shades in each color family to get you started.

What Are the Predicted Color Trends for 2026?

Sherwin-Williams identified four color families that it says are going to be big in 2026: frosted tints, sunbaked hues, restorative darks, and foundational neutrals. Across these four families, there are a lot of similar hues, but each family has its own colors as well.

Frosted tints

First on Sherwin-Williams’ list is frosted tints. The company describes this color family as “cool, analogous tones of icy tinted pastels in whispers of blue, green, and purple—a palette of weightless and wondrous colors destined to complement each other in any combination.” It’s certainly the coolest-toned of the four families. The hues bring to mind a winter wonderland setting and cozy nights curled up under a blanket.

Sunbaked hues

If the frosted tints felt like winter, the sunbaked hues sprint to the other end of the calendar. These warm tones evoke the feeling of warm summer days in a desert. Sherwin-Williams says that “the warmth of natural clay, buttery yellow, and intensely enriched red…ignites a nostalgic reverie, dramatic potential, and the confidence to play with color.”

Restorative darks

The restorative darks feel almost academic in nature. The official description of this palette explains that you can “find sanctuary within a sophisticated palette of deep, nocturnal colors chosen to inspire restfulness, release, and a harmonious richness that makes a quietly compelling impact.”

Foundational neutrals

Last but not least are the foundational neutrals. These feel like the lighthearted younger sister of the restorative darks. While there are common colors across the palettes, the foundational neutrals tend to the lighter end of the spectrum. Sherwin-Williams describes them as “the most essential neutrals of the moment [which] expand on the concept of black and white with a gradient of strongly saturated near-black, silvery gray, extraordinary tans and taupes, and sparkling white.”

Source

2026 COLORMIX® Forecast, Anthology: Volume Two, Sherwin-Williams.

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Can a Phone Replace Your Toolbox? How Apps Compare to the Real Thing

The other day, I was hanging a picture on my wall when I realized I’d neglected to grab a level. I was too lazy to go to the shop, so instead, I used the level app on my phone. The picture looked straight, so that got me thinking: Our phones are all-in-one solutions for managing our personal lives, so can they also replace a bag of tools?

We decided to test some hardware apps. Here’s what we discovered in side-by-side comparisons of their effectiveness and accuracy with their physical tool counterparts.

Cell Phone Apps vs. The Real Thing

Ruler Apps

Ruler apps, like Rul3r, are among the most basic hardware and tool apps. They add a ruler along the edge of your smartphone screen, which works mostly like a regular ruler: Just line it up with whatever you want to measure. They are typically free, and they work… kind of.

“Ruler apps have limits,” says electronics manufacturing expert Hommer Zhao. “The screen is too small, and if you move even a little, the measurement can be off. They’re fine for estimating something small like a screw or bolt, but not for detailed work.”

Our testing reinforced this conclusion. Measuring bolts and cabinet hardware was mostly accurate, though just like with an actual ruler, it’s difficult to be precise with finer measurements. They are also limited to measuring items smaller than your cell phone screen, and the rounded edges of the screen add to the challenge.

Tape Measure Apps

Most tape measure apps, like My Measure, are based on augmented reality (AR) technology. They overlay a virtual tape measure onto your phone’s camera. You then click where you want the tape measure to start and stop, and the app tells you the distance between the two points. Some of them also work in 3D.

We tested five different apps. Some were intuitive to use, but not all. More importantly, none were very accurate.

My Measure is one of the most popular, and it measured a piece of 8.5″ x 11″ office paper at 8-5/8″ x 10-1/8″. That inaccuracy threw me for a loop, so I tried it many more times, from different angles and in varying light levels, and never could get it to recognize the correct size. I also tested it on the shop door, which it determined to be 32″ wide, though the door is actually 36″.

Some of the apps also require you to be six or more feet away from the object, which can be tricky if you’re trying to measure something in a smaller space, for example, a dishwasher in a kitchen.

To add to the mess, all of the AR measuring apps I could find required in-app purchases to do all but the most basic functions (and some wouldn’t even calculate a measurement without a subscription). Those averaged about $30 a year; not worth it for DIY or serious construction in my book, especially when accuracy isn’t these apps’ strong suit.

Leveling Apps

Leveling apps come in bubble and laser form, and use the gyroscope and accelerometer in your phone to determine if a surface is level. Most of the apps are free, though some charge a fee for advanced features.

“Some apps can be impressively precise for the casual need of hanging a shelf or figuring out if a surface is level,” says app and electronics expert Nikolay Petrov. “I’ve used them in comparison tests, with digital spirit levels, on job sites, and the difference is often less than 1°, which is plenty good enough for most DIYers.”

Indeed, in our tests, the level apps gave similar results to both our physical bubble and laser levels. However, there was a hiccup with using my iPhone 12. It has buttons on both sides, so it doesn’t sit flat. I ended up placing it vertically, which gave similar readings to horizontal, despite the buttons. With the bubble app, the angle meter also drifted a few tenths of a degree while the phone was sitting on the surface without anyone touching it. Conclusion: These are great for smaller DIY projects, but I definitely wouldn’t build a house with them.

Caliper Apps

Caliper apps are similar to ruler apps, but instead of the ruler being at the edge of the screen, it’s in the middle, along with a virtual, slidable caliper. This theoretically makes a more accurate measurement for smaller items, like screw heads.

“But of course, there are limits,” says Petrov. “I once tested a caliper app when restoring a vintage amplifier. Even with a high-res screen and stylus, it couldn’t go anywhere near my analog dial calipers for ease of use and precision. The app had to be calibrated each time, and screen parallax made fine measurement nearly impossible.”

It’s also tricky to line up the edges perfectly without the physical barriers of the caliper.

Protractor Apps

Like hand-held protractors, protractor apps can help you measure angles. In our tests, the apps proved to be decently accurate for that application, though under certain circumstances, it was difficult to hold the phone steady enough to precisely line up the angles. One task they don’t help well with is drawing a specific angle. So for that, there’s no substitution for an actual protractor or carpenter’s speed square.

Magnifying Glass Alternative

One task in which digital tools can actually top the real McCoy is using your smartphone camera in lieu of a magnifying glass (assuming you have a decent-quality smartphone, and particularly if your phone features a dedicated macro lens for extreme close-ups). This can be handy if you need to read tiny print or if you’re inspecting or soldering small electronics and other micro items. The better-lit an area is, the better this will work.

Thermal Camera Apps

Thermal cameras and their corresponding apps use infrared radiation to display differences in temperature. They are game changers for home inspection and maintenance, helping find everything from faulty wiring and plumbing leaks in the wall, to figuring out where you have air leaking in through windows and doors or are lacking insulation. They are also fun for spying on little mammals in your garden at night.

We put our handheld Ampbank H128 to the test against our Flir One Edge Pro, which connects onto a smartphone. Both gave identical temperature readings in multiple situations, and both offer an array of light spectrum options. The app-based camera takes slightly longer to activate, but has better resolution, since the cellphone screen is larger than the handheld monitor. The app also had the option to outline objects on the screen, to make it more obvious where the temperature gradations are (granted, this particular Flir is higher-end than the handheld model, so perhaps other handheld models offer that option). On the flip side, the handheld felt more rugged, and the battery tends to last longer.

Are Cell Phone Hardware Tool Apps as Good as the Real Thing?

Usually not. If all you need is a quick level for hanging a picture or a ruler to get a rough measurement, apps can be more convenient than having to go find or buy a tool. They’re also good for in-the-field backups. But if exactness matters, then you can’t beat an actual tool in your hand.

“My takeaway here is that apps are great for ballpark and on the go, but they can’t replace the tactile, application-specific tools needed for professional-grade consistency,” says Petrov. “If you’re serious about precision, such as when working on electronics or mechanical items, save the fundamental tools for your kit.”

Zhao agrees. “I do think apps are getting better, and they’re great in a pinch, when the real thing isn’t around, but I wouldn’t trust them as a full replacement.”

About the Experts

• Hommer Zhao is an electronics manufacturing expert and director at OurPCB, where he works closely with digital tools and smart devices in real manufacturing environments.
• Nikolay Petrov is founder and Chief Technology Officer at ZontSound. He has more than a decade of expertise with apps and electronics, including comparing app-based and hardware versions of tools.

Related

• See a Green Dot on Your Android Phone? Here’s What It Means 
• If You Get a USPS Scam Text, You Need To Do This Immediately 
• This Is How Often You Should Restart Your Phone 

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If You See a Purple Parking Space, Here’s What It Means

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Prevent Frozen Pipes This Winter With This Fall Checklist

If you can prevent pipes from freezing in the winter, you’ll save yourself a lot of trouble, and I speak from experience. A cabin I bought in the Colorado Rockies, where nighttime temperature can dip to 30 below, had pipes running through the attic. They burst before I even took possession of the property, and the cleanup was a huge chore that had to be addressed before I could even start remodeling.

The purpose of this post is to help you avoid that kind of trouble, and we’ve enlisted a panel of plumbing experts to help. When it comes to frozen pipes, an ounce of prevention is definitely worth a pound of cure. So here are nine tips to help you prevent pipes from freezing and avoid the messy cleanup — not to mention the expensive plumbing repairs and the waste of precious water.

What Causes Pipes to Freeze?

The obvious answer is cold temperatures, but that’s really only a partial answer, because it doesn’t explain why all the pipes in a house don’t freeze during a cold snap. What usually happens is that some pipes freeze while others don’t. For example, the pipes feeding the kitchen and bathroom in my Colorado cabin remained intact during the cold winter while those in the attic froze.

To answer the question more accurately, one reason pipes freeze in the winter is because of exposure to cold temperatures. Burst pipes are more common outdoors or in the basement or attic because these areas are usually unheated and not well insulated. Another reason pipes freeze is because the water inside them isn’t moving. When water flows — even if the flow rate is slow — it’s less likely to freeze than if it’s standing still. Both offer clues on how to prevent pipes from freezing.

How to Prevent Pipes From Freezing Before Winter Comes

These tips come from Elizabeth Shavers, who manages an online HVAC and plumbing educational site, as well as Joe Haycock, Justin Cornforth, Joseph Wade and TJ Laury, who all manage plumbing and/or HVAC service companies.

Insulate exposed pipes

“You need to insulate a pipe if these two things are true: it’s in an unheated place like a basement, garage, or crawl space, and you can see the pipe,” advises Cornforth. Outdoor unburied pipes, like the ones that rise to feed spigots, also qualify for insulation. Foam pipe sleeves provide the best long-term insulation, but you can use an old towel and duct tape for temporary first-aid.

Drain pipes that aren’t in use in the winter

“One of the best things you can to do prevent pipes from freezing is to shut off the water supply in those pipes and drain them,” says Wade. “Disconnect hoses from the pipes and leave the outside valve open in case there’s water left in the lines.” If you plan to abandon a cabin or home for the winter, shut off the main water supply and drain all the pipes, using an outdoor faucet. If you have an irrigation system, don’t forget to shut off the water and drain it.

Allow heat to circulate

During an intense cold snap, the pipes under your kitchen and bathroom sinks could freeze, especially if they are attached to an exterior wall. Laury recommends keeping the cabinet doors open to allow warm air into the sink cabinet. It’s also a good idea, says Shavers, to keep interior doors open to allow heat to circulate freely through the house.

Keep a space heater handy, says Haycock. “In extreme cold, you can use it in places where the pipes run.”

Seal cold air leaks

This tip comes from Cornforth: “Put your hand near basement windows, crawl space vents, or where pipes come through a wall — if you feel a draft, all nearby pipes are at high risk of freezing. Cardboard or rags will buy you time, but you need to caulk or foam it as soon as possible.”

Maintain consistent water pressure

“Excessively high pressure can weaken pipes and fittings over time,” warns Shavers, and that makes them more vulnerable to bursting. Check the pressure gauge on your water system, and if it’s greater than about 50 psi, adjust the pressure downward using the valve on the pressure regulator.

Check your shut-off valves

Before winter sets in, make sure you know where all your shut-off valves are, and test each one to verify that it isn’t stuck. “In case of a pipe burst, the best thing you can do is turn off the shut-off valve quickly, says Cornforth. “Every second missed is around a gallon of water pouring into your home. It’s important not only to do things to prevent the problem but also to be ready for it — because once a pipe bursts, your only defense is how fast you can stop the water.”

Let faucets drip

This is a tried and true method to prevent pipes from freezing, and it’s something you should do if you expect a particularly cold night. “During extreme cold weather,” says Laury, “two simple things will help prevent frozen pipes: opening the cabinets under the sinks and letting the faucets drip. Keeping the cabinet door open will let warm air in, and letting the faucets drip will keep water moving. Both reduce the risk of freezing.”

Put together an anti-freeze kit

Despite your best preparations to prevent the pipes from freezing, you may need extra resources during extremely cold weather, so Cornforth suggests putting together an emergency kit. It should include a small space heater, a roll of UL-listed heat tape or a self-regulating heating cable, a couple of foam faucet covers, and even a few old towels you can wrap around a pipe in a pinch.

Consider smart technology

“Nowadays,” says Wade, “smart home technology has become a reliable source for homeowners looking to apply another line of defense. Smart sensors and automatic shut-off valves installed by professional plumbers are great tools that can detect drastic temperature changes, as well as detect water in the home where it shouldn’t be. If the sensors detect a problem, it will notify you through the app and shut off the water to prevent water damage.”

How to Prevent Pipes Freezing When You Have No Heat

It depends on how long you expect to be without heat. If it’s just a few hours or a couple of days, let the faucets drip to keep water moving in the pipes, insulate vulnerable pipes and, if necessary, use electric or propane space heaters to supply heat to those that are most vulnerable.

If you’re going to be without heat for an extended period, our experts agreed that the most effective strategy is to shut off the water and drain the pipes.

How To Prevent Water Leaks Before Winter Comes

Our experts were also in agreement on Haycock’s advice: “Address small leaks and corrosion well before winter. The tiniest leaks can become huge problems if they freeze. Make sure all fittings are tight, and water pressure is at an appropriate level.”

FAQs

At what temperature do pipes freeze?

Water freezes at 32 F, but it has to be much colder than that for pipes to freeze. Here again our experts agree that the temperature has to reach 20 F and stay there for several hours for that to happen.

What’s the minimum temperature to keep pipes from freezing?

Cornforth’s advice: “If your house is well insulated, keeping the temperature at a minimum of 55 degrees should prevent pipes from freezing. If you live in an older house with poor insulation, aim for 60.”

About the Experts

• Elizabeth Shavers is the General Manager for HVAC and Plumbing at Oncourse Home Solutions.
• Joe Haycock is Vice President at Fresh Air Concepts, LLC, a company specializing in HVAC and plumbing services.
• Justin Cornforth is the owner of Ace Home Co, a family-owned company founded in 2017.
• Joseph Wade is the Vice President of Operations at Benjamin Franklin Plumbing, which more than 300 locations across North America.
• TJ Laury is a co-owner and President of Ben’s ProServ, founded with his father, Ben, and brother-in-law, Stan.

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The Essential Guide to Home Warranty Programs: Are They Really Worth It?

While owning a home is part of the American dream, repair costs can be a nightmare. Even minor fixes add up, and major system failures can cost thousands. A recent Bankrate report found that 60 percent of U.S. households couldn’t cover a $1,000 unexpected expense without relying on a credit card. To help ease the financial pain of surprise home repairs, some homeowners turn to home warranty programs. But are they worth it? Here’s what you need to know, with insights from real estate broker Beatrice de Jong and Lindsay LaBonte of Applied Mortgage.

What Are Home Warranty Programs?

A home warranty is a service contract that homeowners purchase annually to help cover the repair or replacement costs of major home systems and appliances, such as HVAC systems and major appliances.

How Much Do Home Warranty Programs Cost?

Home warranty premium costs range from $480 to $1080 annually, depending on the company and level of coverage. In addition to the premium, you’ll pay a service fee each time a contractor visits for a repair or diagnosis. Expect to pay between $75 to $150 per visit, depending on the company, your location, and service tier.

Home Warranty Subscription Tiers, Explained

Most home warranty companies offer three coverage tiers.

• The base tier often covers appliances or HVAC, electrical and plumbing systems for $480 to $540 per year.
• Mid-level plans typically cover systems and appliances for $600 to $780 annually.
• Top-tier policies, which cost $840 to $1,080 per year, include systems, appliances and extras, like minor roof repairs.

Many companies also offer add-ons for items like central vacuums, instant hot water dispensers, pool equipment or septic systems, says DeJong.

Home Warranty Programs Pros & Cons

Pros

• Peace of mind: Home warranty programs offer protection against costly repairs, making them ideal for first-time buyers or homes with aging systems.
• Simplified repair process: File a claim, and the warranty company dispatches contractors to diagnose and fix issues.
• Assist in real estate deals: “In many cases, the seller may cover the cost of the home warranty as part of the negotiation,” de Jong says, offering buyers peace of mind.

Cons

• Delayed repair process: “Experiences with home warranty providers can differ significantly,” de Jong says. “Some companies have been criticized for slow response times or disputes over coverage eligibility.”
• Plan exclusions: Fine print can lead to your claim being denied by the company.

Are Home Warranty Programs Worth It?

“In my experience, these products rarely live up to the marketing,” LaBonte says. “Premiums tend to be high, coverage is narrow, and the fine print often excludes the very issues that arise.” Home warranty programs often don’t cover cosmetic damage, rust, corrosion and non-critical parts like shelves or knobs. Claims are also likely denied if failure results from improper installation, misuse or poor maintenance.

FAQ

When should I subscribe to a home warranty program?

You can buy a home warranty policy anytime of the year, but most have a 30-day wait period for new claims. If your appliances and systems are new, a warranty program may not be necessary. However, if they’re older and nearing the end of their lifespan, it could be a smart investment.

What is the best home warranty program?

The best home warranty program will offer what matters most to you in coverage and service. Choice Home Warranty and Select Home Warranty offer budget-friendly policies, while First American Home Warranty provides higher coverage limits ideal for luxury appliances and systems. ARW Home and American Home Shield stand out by allowing you to choose your own contractor while Cinch Home Services and Liberty Home Guard have high customer satisfaction rates.

Should I pay for a home warranty program if my appliances are under warranty?

There’s no need to have home warranty coverage for appliances still under the manufacturer’s warranty.

About the Experts

• Beatrice de Jong is a real estate broker with Beverly Hills Estates in Los Angeles, California. Ms. de Jong previously worked for Open Listings as the Director of Residential Sales and OpenDoor as a Consumer Trends Analyst. She has over ten years experience in the real estate industry.
• Lindsay LaBonte is a Loan Originator at Applied Mortgage in Northampton, Massachusetts. She has over 18 years of industry experience.

Source

• Bankrate Annual Emergency Savings Report (2025)

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Put Down the Rake: The Surprising Benefits of Leaving Your Leaves

While I’m a big fan of the fall season, there’s one part I could happily do without: raking leaves. So last year, I hung up my rake and skipped this dreaded annual tradition, which, living in New England, felt like breaking some sort of unwritten law. But guess what? My lawn didn’t die, I had more time for fall activities and the world kept turning. Beyond saving time and energy, there are plenty of other benefits when you don’t rake your leaves that really make this choice a no-brainer. Read on to learn more about why you should stop raking your leaves in the fall with insights from Julie Dellinger of Garden for Wildlife.

Maybe the Leaves Aren’t the Problem

While evidence of humans using rakes dates back thousands of years, it wasn’t until turfgrass lawns appeared in suburban neighborhoods in the 1950s that leaf removal became a staple of American lawn care. Manicured yards became the new status symbol, and leaves were not an acceptable part of the “perfect” lawn.

But, like many mid-century ideas, the belief that every leaf needs to be removed from your lawn has not aged well and deserves a modern update. The truth is, if you don’t rake your leaves, you won’t ruin your yard; in fact, you might even improve it.

Why Raking is the Worst

Raking leaves into piles, putting them in bags and driving them to the dump only to do it all over again next year? No, thank you. This is an act of futility I just cannot get behind. Not to mention it’s a dusty and dirty job.

It’s also surprisingly strenuous, with lots of repetitive motions and heavy lifting. This can lead to back strains, pulled muscles and cardiac events, not to mention allergy attacks from the dust and debris.

Raking leaves also disrupts important insect habitats and reduces biodiversity. “Insects overwinter in the leaf litter and some of them become a food source for birds when other sources of food become scarce,” Dellinger says. “It’s a critically important part of the ecosystem! Unfortunately, many homeowners rake up the leaves and throw them away to make their yards look neat and tidy.”

In this pursuit, we’re filling up our landfills, with American homeowners sending over 10 million tons of yard trimmings to local municipal sold waste centers in 2018 alone.

Why Leaving Leaves is a Better Alternative

When you don’t rake your leaves, you not only free up your valuable time, avoid injury, improve native biodiversity and reduce landfill fodder, you potentially benefit your lawn. Decomposed leaves add useful organic material and nutrients to the soil, which improves its health and structure. Leaf litter can also reduce erosion on hillsides by acting as a protective barrier for the soil. Instead of hurting your lawn, you’re actually helping it when you don’t rake your leaves.

When You Can’t Leave All the Leaves

While I am fully subscribed to the idea of not raking my leaves at all, I do need to note that if the majority of your lawn is covered in a thick layer of leaves, you’re going to have to do something about it. Thick leaf cover will kill your grass if left to decompose over the winter and can encourage snow mold to develop.

If this is the case, consider a middle-ground approach instead of removing every leaf from your yard. Try raking most of your leaves and leaving any late-season stragglers behind, for example.

Another option is to rake leaves onto garden beds to spare your grass, suppress weeds and create a winter habitat for beneficial insects. “If you can’t leave all of the leaves, designating a specific section of your yard to keep them can make a big difference,” Dellinger says. “We’ve even heard from customers who dump the leaves in their garden to form a natural mulch and preserve the benefits to wildlife without upsetting the HOA or their nearby neighbors.”

About the Expert

• Julie Dellinger is a marketing director and content creator at Garden for Wildlife, a National Wildlife Federation program that promotes native gardening education.

Sources

United States Environmental Protection Agency. Nation Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling. (2024)

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Simple Steps to Insulate Your Storm Door Before Winter

I’m always looking for ways to get my gas and electric bills down, so I finally got a thermal camera to see where hot and cold air was getting in. The main culprits were my doors, and that’s true for most of us.

Doors are some of the draftiest places our homes, letting in cold air in the winter and hot air in the summer. Storm doors can really help seal up those cracks. And insulating them takes that savings to the next level.

Here’s more about how storm doors work, how to make them more efficient and ways to add insulation to both front and cellar storm doors.

What Is a Storm Door?

There are two main types of storm doors: front/back storm doors and cellar storm doors. Both are designed to protect against weather and heat loss. That protection can also extend the life of the doors behind them, plus help keep out rodents, insects and other pests.

“Most people think of the full-view glass front variety slapped on over the main entry, but that’s just one flavor,” says home remodeler and contractor Danny Niemela. “There are also mid-rail storm doors with screens and rear-entry types that don’t match the trim, but still count.”

Cellar storm doors cover cellar stairs and basement access points, and usually open outward. They are an often overlooked major source of heat loss, since they’re exposed to wind and usually uninsulated.

How Storm Doors Impact Your Home’s Temperature

Storm doors create an air pocket between themselves and the inner door, insulating the air between. They also help stop drafts.

“Storm doors actually impact temperature a lot more than people think,” says Niemela. “Without that buffer layer, you are exposing your front door to direct wind and moisture, which means the inner door has to do all the work. And if you leave that old steel cellar door unchecked in the winter, you are basically running an open freezer under your house.”

Why Insulate Storm Doors?

When you insulate storm doors, it makes them even more effective at regulating inside temperatures, resulting in money and energy savings.

“It also prevents cold spots near entryways, making them more comfortable for people and pets,” says home inspector Reuben Saltzman.

Some storm doors do come with built-in insulation, but it’s often a good idea to insulate them further, says Niemela. “The hardware store version always promises ‘insulation,’ but usually that just means thin glass and a few vinyl strips,” he says. “A little extra work, or a smarter upgrade, and you can squeeze out a few extra degrees, plus avoid the shock of a $300 utility bill.”

How To Insulate Your Front Storm Door

Weatherstripping

For newer doors, start by filling perimeter gaps with self-adhesive foam weatherstripping. A 30-foot roll is plenty to cover a 36″ x 80″ door. For older doors, especially those with warped frames, Niemela suggests stacking high-density foam tape or adding a magnetic vinyl strip to improve the seal.

“Nothing fancy, just solid contact between the door and frame,” he says. “Pro tip: the fastest way to ruin a storm door’s efficiency is to skip cleaning and degreasing the frame before sticking anything down. If that tape lifts, the air comes right back.”

For a longer-lasting seal, Saltzman recommends rubber or vinyl strips. Again, clean the surface before applying, and avoid stretching the material, since it will shrink over time.

Shrink-Film

For glass inserts, clear shrink-film insulation adds another thermal layer. It’s inexpensive and can be installed in about 20 minutes with help from a hair dryer. “Window film kits can make a glass storm door almost as good as a triple-pane window, at least for a season or two,” says Niemela.

Door Sweeps and Caulking

In most situations, it’s also wise to install a door sweep at the bottom to block drafts. “Adjustable aluminum sweeps with a rubber seal are more durable than stick-on versions,” says Saltzman. “Measure twice before cutting to size.”

Also, If there are gaps where the frame meets the exterior siding, use exterior-grade caulk to fill them. Work on a dry day above 40°F for best adhesion.

Foam Batting

For doors you almost never open, such as a defunct side door, the simplest solution is to throw some foam batting insulation between the two doors, says builder Jonathan Palley.

How To Insulate Your Cellar Storm Door

Add Panels Or a Secondary Door

A good solution is to attach rigid foam insulation panels to the inside of a cellar storm door. Alternatively, you can build a simple insulated panel from 2″ foam board wrapped in plywood.

If your interior cellar has stairs leading up, a secondary interior door is often the best option, says Niemela. “Even a basic wood slab mounted inside the frame can cut down airflow by half,” he says.

Add Weatherstripping

Just like on front doors, foam weatherstripping around the lip can help seal up gaps. “Just watch for water pooling,” says Niemela. “If it is a Bilco-style metal double door, those things are ice chutes in winter.”

Replace the Door

If the storm door rattles or the hardware is shot, swap it for an insulated unit (often that task can be DIY-able, or you can hire a contractor). “Sometimes a full replacement is the way to go,” says Niemela. “Decent ones start at $250, but it is money well spent if your original is pre-1990 and feels like tinfoil.”

Create a Temporary Fix

A quick, temporary solution is to just hang a thick blanket, like a moving blanket, over the entryway. “If you’re stuck in a pinch, an old quilt over a cellar entrance for a few weeks of hard freeze can keep pipes from bursting and block enough cold air to matter,” says Niemela. “No shame in a low-tech fix if it works.”

About the Experts

• Danny Niemela is a professional home remodeler, contractor, and vice president and CFO at ArDan Construction, a luxury home remodeling company in Scottsdale, Arizona. He also serves as the Chairman of the Board of the Greater Phoenix Chapter of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI).
• Reuben Saltzman is CEO and home inspector at Structure Tech Home Inspections in Minnesota. He has more than 25 years of experience in the trades and inspection industry.
• Jonathan Palley is CEO of Clever Tiny Homes, where he uses new technology to design and build quality, affordable tiny homes to help make a dent in the housing crisis.

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Don’t Let Your Fire Pit Get Rusty: A Guide to Getting It Clean

We have several wood-burning fire pits at our home. One we built in our backyard using heat-resistant bricks and rocks. Another is one of those shiny, smokeless numbers that have become so popular in recent years. Then we have our camping fire pit, which is simply an old canning pot with holes drilled around the base for air flow. Needless to say, that’s a lot of fire pits to keep clean.

Luckily, it’s not too hard if you stay on top of it. Here’s how to clean fire pits and extend their life, plus what to do if your fire pit starts to rust.

What Happens If You Don’t Clean Your Fire Pit?

If you don’t clean a fire pit regularly, it will build up with ash, soot and creosote, which creates a mess and leads to rust.

“Also, if it gets wet, that will create a caustic solution that is quite corrosive to steel and eats away at it quickly,” says fire pit manufacturer Eric Tamminga. “We recommend cleaning out fire pits every month or so, but it is even more important to keep them covered to keep water out, which will prevent this corrosion to begin with.”

How To Clean a Fire Pit

Wood-Burning Fire Pits

• Remove any unburned wood chunks.
• Use a metal shovel to scoop ash and other debris into a box or bag. If you’ve only burned natural wood (which is all you should ever burn in a fire pit), you can use the ash as fertilizer.
• Brush or shop-vac out any remaining fine dust.
• Wash the interior. “For metal pits, you can scrub well with a stiff-bristle brush using warm soapy water,” says cleaning expert Scott Schrader. “For stone, use some mild detergent as you want to avoid acidic cleaners.”
• Rinse and dry as thoroughly as possible to avoid rust.

Safety precautions:

• Before cleaning, allow the fire pit to cool down completely; 24 hours is a good rule.
• Wear gloves and a dust mask when handling ash, as it can be harmful.
• To prevent fires, dispose of ash in a metal container (or repurpose it for something else). Embers can smolder and reignite hours or days later.

Gas-Burning Fire Pits

To clean a gas-burning fire pit, your goal is to remove soot from essential components and surfaces, says outdoor home expert Ben Aston. Be sure to consult your owner’s manual for safety precautions and warranty instructions.

• Turn off and/or disconnect the gas line from your fire pit.
• Disassemble it. “The key is to expose the gas line, valve and lighter assemblies,” says Aston.
• With a clean cloth and a clean solvent, like rubbing alcohol or a dedicated fireplace cleaner, wipe the soot from these components.
• Reassemble the fire pit and check for any leaks before lighting.

Tips for Making Fire Pit Cleanup Easier

To help make the future task of cleaning your fire pit hassle-free, keep your fire pit covered, only burn seasoned wood and empty the ash regularly.

“The best way to minimize cleanup is to reduce the amount of ash you are creating,” says Tamminga. “Burn hardwoods instead of softwood, and make sure to have good airflow for a clean-burning fire. A grate can help with this.”

FAQ

Why is my fire pit rusty?

If your fire pit is made from steel, it will eventually rust. This usually happens when the rust-preventing paint wears out from the heat or if it has cracked or been scratched by firewood. The problem will escalate if wet ash is left in it.

“To avoid rust entirely, purchase a fire pit made from stainless steel,” says Tamminga. “Or to lean into the rusty look, purchase a fire pit made from a weathering steel such as Corten, which will appear rusty but does not impact the integrity of the metal.”

How do you clean rust off of a fire pit?

• Scrub the fire pit with steel wool, a wire brush or a wire wheel on a drill. Make sure to wear protective gear, including eye protection, work gloves and a respirator, as this can be a dusty task.
• Rinse the fire pit and let it dry completely.
• Clean it with mineral spirits, then let it dry again.
• Re-coat the fire pit with high-temperature paint, or at least protective oil to slow new rust formation.

“The best way to clean rust off a fire pit is actually by sandblasting it, but that’s not available to most DIY-ers,” says Tamminga.

About the Experts

• Eric Tamminga is founder of Iron Embers, a premium fire pit manufacturing business based in Ontario, Canada.
• Scott Schrader is a cleaning expert at CottageCare, a leading home cleaning company with over 41 locations nationwide. He’s worked there for two decades.
• Ben Aston is CEO of Rocky Mountain Turf, where he specializes in making outdoor spaces more livable and low-maintenance.

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Over 23,000 Chevys Recalled Over Fuel Leak Fire Hazard

Car fires are high on the list of a driver’s worst nightmare. You likely do everything you can to prevent such a disaster. You know not to smoke at gas stations and you probably keep your car in good shape. But if you’re a Chevy owner, that might not be enough. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) reports that tens of thousands of Chevy vehicles pose a fire hazard, and the company is recalling them as a result. Read on to find out which Chevy vehicles have this issue and what to do if you own one of them.

Why Is Chevy Recalling So Many Vehicles?

According to the NHTSA brief, Chevy is recalling these vehicles because of a potential fuel leak. In the affected vehicles, “excess fuel may spill into the vehicle fuel-filler pocket during refueling and leak onto an ignition source.” This isn’t something caused by user error; it’s a fault with the vehicle itself.

You’re right to be nervous about the idea of a fuel leak with access to the engine. The NHTSA warns that “a fuel leak in the presence of an ignition source, such as a hot engine or exhaust components, can increase the risk of a fire.” Car fires can be deadly, so minimize your use of these vehicles as much as possible.

Which Chevy Vehicles Pose a Fire Hazard?

Per the NHTSA brief, General Motors, LLC (GM) is recalling nearly 24,000 vehicles including the:

• 2023 Chevrolet Corvette
• 2024 Chevrolet Corvette
• 2025 Chevrolet Corvette
• 2026 Chevrolet Corvette

The affected vehicles are all “equipped with a left-side radiator/fan combination. ” If you own one of the aforementioned cars, keep an eye on your mailbox. Chevy will be mailing out a first round of owner letters in early October 2025. These letters simply notify owners of the dangers. There will be a second round of owner letters sent out “once the remedy is available.”

How Will Chevy Fix This Issue?

Chevy says that “dealers will install a shield to divert spilled fuel, free of charge.” You should refrain from driving your Corvette until you’ve gotten it back from the dealer. Car fires can be deadly and you don’t want to be caught in one if you can avoid it.

If you have further questions or concerns, you can reach out to Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-222-1020. The NHTSA number for this recall is 25V536000.

Source

Fire Risk When Refueling, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2025.

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Why It May Be Time to Ditch Your Black Plastic Kitchen Utensils

I often research and write about plastics in the home, and the net result has been me ditching my plastic cutting board and storage containers. I also use mostly wooden and metal utensils, but up until this week, I did have a lingering black plastic spatula in my kitchen drawer. It was sentimental, because my mom gave it to me, and since it was from a high-end cooking store, I figured it had to be safe enough.

Sorry Mom, it’s gone. While most people who use black plastic don’t automatically develop cancer, there is mounting research that it can lead to an array of serious health problems, including ones that aren’t so obvious, like brain fog, immune system suppression and reduced fertility. Plus, since many of the chemicals and their reactions have yet to be fully studied, I see no reason to risk it.

Here is more about black plastic, what it’s made from, and its potential health effects.

What is Black Plastic?

Any type of plastic can be colored black, but black plastic kitchen utensils are often made from polypropylene or polystyrene, plus an additive called “carbon black,” which gives them that deep, dark or charcoal color.

How Is Black Plastic Made?

Some plastic kitchen utensils, especially black plastic ones, are made from melted-down electronics, such as computers, cell phones and TVs, mixed with food-grade plastics.

“They often have flame retardants like bromine added to them as well, plus a ton of other nasty things like cadmium and mercury, none of which you want to ingest,” says Aminah Taariq-Sidibe, a plastic expert at EarthDay.org. “And carbon black is made from burning petrochemicals; basically, it is a form of soot.”

Why is black plastic so common?

Black plastic is so common because it’s cheap to make and convenient to mold into many shapes. The black color also helps hide imperfections.

The Health Risks of Black Plastic

Modern Research and Health Findings

Scientists and health professionals warn about the potential health issues that black plastic utensils can cause. Specifically, recycled electronic waste and other components in plastic, including carbon black, can contain and release harmful chemicals, including brominated flame retardants (BFRs), BPAs, PFAS (forever chemicals) and phthalates.

“These substances leach into your food, especially when exposed to heat,” says toxin expert Dr. Paul Savage. “Cooking with black plastic utensils in hot pans or stirring acidic foods increases the likelihood of these toxins migrating into your meals.”

Exposure to these substances is collectively linked to neurological problems, reduced brain development, endocrine system disruption (hormones, fertility and reproductive systems), certain cancers, immune system suppression, liver toxicity and thyroid dysfunction.

“Plus, the heavy metals, cadmium and lead used in these utensils come with a yet more potential health risks, such as cancer, kidney dysfunction, brain development in children and the list goes on,” says Taariq-Sidibe.

There are further potential health risks from using any color of plastic utensil, as they can all shed tiny particles of plastic into your food. “These microplastics are not just an environmental concern, they’re also a health hazard,” says Savage. “Once ingested, they can accumulate in your body, leading to inflammation, oxidative stress and potential long-term health risks.”

A recent study in the New England Journal of Medicine also linked inflammation and oxidative stress in carotid arteries directly to microplastics. “What is most fascinating is that [this] suggests that these particles can contribute to cardiovascular disease progression,” says heart surgeon and founder of Taki2Go, a food and to-go industry sustainability startup, Ravyn Williams.

Health Conclusions

While there is a growing body of research about the potential detrimental effects of plastics in cooking, there has been some confusion about the actual harmful effects of black plastic. That’s mainly due to one scientific paper in the journal Chemosphere, conducted by a group called Toxic-Free Future, published in early 2024, which sounded the alarm. Later that year, the authors announced they’d made a mistake in their calculations, and toxin levels in black plastics were not as high as they had previously concluded. However, they also stated that it did not change their conclusion about black plastics being harmful.

It’s also important to understand that the health effects of the thousands of chemicals in plastics is emerging research, most of which we still know very little about. As such, many health professionals and scientists suggest that even though research hasn’t specifically proven something harmful, it’s best to be cautious and avoid plastics in general.

Alternatives to black plastic

There are many worthy alternatives to black plastic utensils, including wood, bamboo, stainless steel, ceramic and silicon.

How To Dispose of Black Plastic Tools

If you’ve decided to make the swap away from black plastic utensils, it’s best to just throw them away, even though they will continue to be toxic as they break down in the landfill. Because they’re difficult to recycle, even if you put them in the recycling bin, there’s a good chance they’ll still end up in the landfill, says Taariq-Sidibe. Just don’t donate them, says Williams. Doing that exposes others to their potential harm.

Other Potential Contaminants To Avoid While Cooking

• Old aluminum cookware;
• Cheap melamine utensils;
• Painted ceramics, which could contain lead in the glaze;
• Plastic cutting boards; and
• Pots and plans labeled nonstick, especially if the surface is scratched, or if they’re made with PFOA (Perfluorooctanoic acid) or PFAS;

Also, “Never, ever, ever heat food in plastic and avoid putting aluminum foil directly over any food that is considered acidic,” says Williams.

FAQ

Why do some black plastic utensils get sticky over time?

Sticky utensils mean the polymers used to make the plastic are deteriorating. That’s typically caused by wear and tear, plus exposure to high heat both from cooking and the dishwasher. If that happens, throw them out immediately. “This significantly increases the risk of harmful toxins leaching into our food,” says Williams.

How long do black plastic kitchen tools typically last?

It depends on the quality of the utensil, how scuffed it gets and how much it is exposed to high heat during cooking and washing, but typically a few months to a few years.

“The unfortunate thing is that these are labeled as ‘reusable,’ but if you ever notice that your utensils or cookware or discolored or sticky or warped, that’s your sign to throw it out,” says Williams.

About the Experts

• Aminah Taariq-Sidibe is a plastic expert and manager of the End Plastics Initiatives at EarthDay.org.
• Ravyn Williams is a Stanford-educated heart surgeon and founder of the food and to-go industry sustainability startup, Taki2Go.
• Dr. Paul Savage is a toxin expert, chief medical officer and founder of MDLifespan, a physician-led health-tech startup focused on eliminating toxins from the body.

Sources

• NPR: “Clarifying the results of a study on black plastics”

Related

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side 
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong 
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling 

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Level Up Your Kitchen

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Essential Gardening Tools Every Homeowner Needs (And How to Use Them)

Pruning shears

Pruning shears (also called hand pruners) are designed to trim and prune thin plant branches or stems. The cutting capacity varies depending on the shears, but it’s usually around 5/8-to 1-inch. You cut by squeezing the handles just like scissors. Always wear safety glasses and gloves when pruning, and ensure your shears are sharp and clean before use.

1. Open the shears and place them at the collar (just above where the branch joins the main trunk) of the branch you want to cut.
2. With one hand, squeeze the shear handles together to cut the branch while holding the branch in the other hand.
3. Once a clean cut has been made, remove the branch and dispose of cuttings properly.

Hand trowel

A hand trowel serves multiple purposes, including digging, planting, weeding, and mixing. It is a small tool with a sharp blade designed to penetrate the soil, allowing you to loosen it and create small holes for planting bulbs and seeds. Keep the blade clean and sharp for best results.

1. To remove weeds, use the tip of the trowel to loosen the soil and uproot weeds completely.
2. To dig a hole, firmly insert the trowel blade into the soil and pull it back to scoop out the soil. Repeat this process to enlarge the hole as needed.

Round point shovel/spade

This tool is effective for digging holes in the soil and moving material. To avoid injury, use proper body mechanics by bending your knees and keeping your back straight.

1. To use it, insert the blade tip into the soil where you want to create a hole.
2. Step on the back of the blade with one foot to use your body weight for driving it deeper into the ground.
3. Once the blade is firmly in place, use the shovel’s handle to lift the soil and remove it. Avoid lifting more than you can handle comfortably.

Loppers

If you notice dense plant growth in your bushes, trees, etc., you will want to use loppers to remove it. Loppers can cut wood up to around two inches thick, depending on the model. Wear safety glasses and gloves, and check that the blades are sharp before starting.

1. Choose which branches you want to remove.
2. Open the blades and place them at the collar of the branch.
3. In a single motion with firm pressure, use both hands to close the blades together to cut off the branch.

Bow rake

A bow rake is a versatile tool useful for leveling soil, breaking it up, spreading mulch, and removing unwanted weeds or rocks. Keep the metal tines clean and check for bent or broken tines before use.

1. To level the ground, use the metal tines to crush and break down clumps of dirt.
2. Turn the rake over and use the flat side to evenly push and pull the dirt around to make it level.
3. To remove rocks from the soil, drag the tines through the dirt using a pushing and pulling motion.

Pruning saw

A pruning saw is a good tool for removing branches that are too big for loppers. Always wear safety glasses and gloves, and ensure the saw blade is sharp for clean cuts that promote plant health.

1. Select the branch that needs to be cut, and make the cut at the collar.
2. Grip the branch with one hand while you start sawing with the other hand.
3. To cut the branch, move the blade in a back-and-forth motion, making sure to use full strokes.
4. Continue sawing until you have made a clean cut.

Hedge trimmer

A hedge trimmer is an excellent tool for trimming and shaping hedges and bushes. However, it should not be used for cutting thick branches. There are manual hedge trimmers, battery-powered, gas-powered, and corded hedge trimmers. Cordless ones are typically less powerful than corded and petrol-powered models. Regardless of the option you choose, you must wear eye protection, gloves, long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt to safeguard your skin. Always inspect the tool for damage before use.

1. Start cutting from the ground and work your way up the side of the bush. Use a slow gliding motion while keeping the hedge trimmer vertical.
2. When trimming, be sure to cut in the opposite direction to remove any branches you may have missed.
3. After trimming the sides, you can proceed to trim the tops of the bushes.

Square nose shovel

Unlike the round-point shovel, the square nose shovel does not specialize in digging but in moving material like dirt, gravel, sand, and mulch. You may hear people refer to it as the transfer shovel. Use proper lifting techniques to protect your back.

1. To move the material, position the flat blade against a solid surface, such as pavement, and scoop up the material in one motion.
2. Use the handle to leverage the shovel with the material, especially if the material is heavy.
3. Use the flat blade to shape or level the material as needed.

Leaf rake

A leaf rake is a lightweight rake in the shape of a fan designed to glide over the grass without damaging it while removing unwanted leaves. A leaf rake can also be used to rake dead grass or thatch.

1. When you’re raking, keep the rake close to your body to avoid back strain.
2. Use small, dragging-raking movements instead of reaching out too far with your arms.
3. Work in smaller, manageable piles of leaves/grass around your yard. This way, you won’t end up with one large pile that’s difficult to handle.

Drain spade

This distinctive-looking spade has a long, narrow blade and a pointed tip, designed for digging narrow holes in the ground. It makes it easier to penetrate hard dirt or rocky ground, particularly for digging post holes for items like fences, plants, mailboxes, or basketball hoops. Wear gloves and use proper body mechanics to prevent injury.

1. To dig a hole with a drain spade, insert the blade tip into the dirt where you want to create a hole.
2. Step on the back of the blade with one foot, using your body weight to drive it deeper into the ground.
3. Once the blade is firmly in place, rock the spade back and forth to loosen up the dirt.
4. Use the shovel’s handle to lift the soil and remove it carefully. Repeat the process as needed.

FAQ

When is the best time to prune trees in my yard?

Pruning trees is most effective when they are in a dormant state, which typically occurs during the winter months, from November to March. During this period, the trees conserve energy and channel their nutrients, making it easier to trim branches without causing undue stress.

What time of year should you prune shrubs and bushes?

Prune shrubs and bushes in late winter or early spring to reduce stress on the plants during pruning.

When is the best time to plant grass seed in the Midwest?

For optimal results, it is best to plant grass seeds in late summer or early fall. During this time, temperatures are generally mild, and there is often sufficient moisture in the soil and air, which helps the seeds germinate and establish strong roots. Planting at this time allows the grass to develop before the colder winter months, ensuring a healthy lawn that can withstand the challenges of winter weather.

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