What Is Biophilic Design and How Can You Incorporate It?

We all like nature, even if we don’t necessarily think about it. We give flowers as gifts, have dog and cat friends, and tend to vacation in scenic places like the mountains and the beach. Intuitively, being in nature is calming and restorative for humans. That’s one reason for the buzz around biophilic design.

“It has taken off in the last few years, like almost nothing I’ve seen,” says Jim Mumford, owner of Good Earth Plant Company in San Diego. “I’ve seen these things kind of come and go, but this one is really sticking.”

And it makes sense. Our attraction to nature makes us sit and look at the waves, or stare at the night sky. So why not add nature-inspired elements into our homes?

Here’s what to know about biophilic design, with some advice from Mumford on how to incorporate it into your home.

What Is Biophilic Design?

Biophilia describes our love of nature, innate connection to it and ultimate desire to emulate it. Biophilic design applies those concepts to our homes and other buildings through interior design, landscaping and architectural creations.

Biologist and naturalist E.O. Wilson first popularized the term in his 1984 book Biophilia. The late Stephen R. Kellert, Ph.D., of Yale University is largely credited for bringing it into today’s mainstream architecture and design. The consulting group Terrapin Bright Green continues this work today.

Here are the three tenets of biophilic design:

• Nature in the space: This includes adding features like plants, aquariums, fireplaces and outside views of greenery. If they include movement, all the better, Mumford says. “I’m still waiting for the project where get to make grasses blowing in the wind inside,” he says.
• Natural analogues: Man-made elements that invoke a feeling of nature. These include using fabrics with patterns and earth tones, incorporating natural materials like bamboo and stone and furniture with curved designs.
• Nature of the space: How a space affects our emotions. This is usually done through artful architectural emulations that suggest a natural landscape, like a wide-open savannah that invokes a feeling of refuge or mystery. “That’s harder for a homeowner to incorporate unless they’re talking to their architect early on, because it has do to with how you lay out your house and landscape,” says Mumford.

Where and When Is Biophilic Design Most Often Used?

Biophilic design first took off in commercial settings, but now it’s becoming popular in homes as well. It’s really gaining steam in office buildings, where Mumford says managers use it to entice people back from their home offices.

Hospitals are also increasingly embracing biophilic design. Studies have shown patients with a view of nature out their window recover more quickly, use less pain medication and complain less.

Mumford is also starting to see biophilic design incorporated more into retail. Stores are including elements like plants and living walls, with restaurants hanging plants from the ceiling.

Examples of Biophilc Design

Singapore has become famous as a biophilic city, with an abundance of green walls and roofs. The Jewel Changi Airport, with the world’s tallest indoor waterfall and a hedge maze, offers one of the city’s most famous biophilic designs.

In Seattle, the retailer Amazon took the idea of a biophilic workspace to the max with its Amazon Spheres. The three glass domes, each 80 to 95 feet high, house 40,000 plants, employee lounge areas, meeting spaces and retail stores.

Then there’s the world’s greenest apartment complex, the Bosco Verticale in Milan, Italy. It’s comprised of two forested skyscrapers with 2,000 tree species on their facades. Besides being biophilic, that project aims to promote plant and animal biodiversity, along with other environmental benefits.

How To Integrate Biophilic Design in Your Home

“People in their homes have been doing biophilic design all along, they just didn’t necessarily have a name for it,” says Mumford. “You pick wallpaper with flowers on it. You pick an earth tone paint for your dining room. You put a vase of flowers on the table.”

So you probably already have some biophilic elements in your home. The easiest way to add more? Get some houseplants, says Mumford.

“They change the whole atmosphere, bringing in oxygen and changing the feel of a space,” he says. “And the thrill of watching a new leaf come out, that’s pretty exciting for us plant nerds.”

Other elements of biophilic design to add to your home include:

• Floral patterns and earth tones;
• Natural materials like wood and wool;
• A solar tube to bring in natural light through the ceiling;
• A living wall or moss wall;
• Water features like a small fountain or aquarium;
• Fresh air;
• A fireplace (or even just a YouTube of a crackling fire);
• Paintings, photographs and other art depicting nature;
• Organic shapes, like furniture with soft curves.

If you’re building a home, consider designing in elements like:

• Large windows, to let in natural light and scenery;
• Built-in planters;
• A built-in waterfall or other water feature;
• Big trees on the patio or even indoors;
• A living roof;
• Organic architectural shapes like arched entryways and curvy countertops.

“And at the end of the day, remember we are nature,” says Mumford. “We just happen to separate ourselves out from it so we’re comfortable, but we’re animals like the rest of them.”

About the Expert

Jim Mumford is the owner of Good Earth Plant Company, which he founded in 1977. A passionate advocate for biophilic design, he’s dedicated to creating and innovating sustainable, nature-centric built environments using plants, moss and natural materials. These promote wellness, environmental consciousness and natural beauty.

Article source here: What Is Biophilic Design and How Can You Incorporate It?

Garage Door Keypad Not Working? Here’s How To Fix It

Test the other elements

Always begin by testing the rest of the system to determine if the issue lies with the keypad itself or some other component of the opener.

• A typical garage door opener system will have a number of distinct parts. They include:
  • The opener itself (attached to the ceiling);
  • A wall-mounted button (usually close to an entry door);
  • Wireless remotes (the ‘clickers’ usually kept in a car);
  • The rails that the door rides as it’s lifted up;
  • Safety sensors located near the bottom of the door;
  • And of course, the keypad that you’re troubleshooting.
• If both the wireless remotes and the wall-mounted button are having issues, look for a problem with the opener itself or the door track.
• • • One common issue is leaves or other debris blocking the safety sensors at the bottom of the door frame. Simply clearing that debris may solve the issue.

If multiple wireless remotes are malfunctioning but the wall-mounted button is working fine, you may want to jump to Step 5: Reset the App/Clear the Opener. If the only element not working is the keypad, continue with the rest of the troubleshooting steps.

Article source here: Garage Door Keypad Not Working? Here’s How To Fix It

Solo Stove’s New Mesa Heat Deflector Increases Your Fire Pit’s Heating Radius

Want patio warmth but dont have room for a large outdoor heater on your precious patio space? The new Solo Stove Mesa heat deflector is here to transform your Solo Stove Mesa (aka your mini fire pit) into the ultimate mini outdoor heater.

The Mesa heat deflector doubles the heating radius of your Mesa to ensure that everyone is cozy and warm around the outdoor dining table. It merges functionality and style to create the ideal patio centerpiece. (If you don’t have the Mesa yet and you’re curious, scope out my full Mesa review.)

Heres what you need to know about the all-new Mesa heat deflector.

What is the Solo Stove Mesa heat deflector?

The Mesa heat deflector is a must-have Solo Stove accessory for your existing Mesa or Mesa XL tabletop fire pit. It sits directly on top of your Mesa to push heat outward and increase its heating radius by up to 2 feet. Logs and/or pellets can be added while the heat deflector is in place to keep the fire going throughout the night.

Constructed from Solo Stoves famous 304 stainless steel, the Mesa heat deflector is built to last a just as long as your other Solo Stove gear for a lifetime of warm moments alongside your fire pit.

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We Tried It

Solo Stove Mesa Heat Deflector

You need this heat deflector that extends the warming radius of your Solo Stove Mesa or Mesa XL.

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Solo Stove Mesa Heat Deflector Features

The round, angled shape of the Mesa heat deflector redirects warm air out while the perforated grates in the center allow the fire to breathe. The deflector sits high enough above the Mesa that you can add fuel via any of the three easy-access windows without removing the deflector. It weighs less than one pound and comes with a carrying bag. Its only 5 inches tall and has a diameter of less than 8 inches, so it takes up virtually no extra space on top of your Mesa.

How We Tested It

The Solo Stove Mesa heat deflector arrived in a small box with the new metallic Mesa fire pit. (Yes, I couldnt help myself and had to get my hands on one of the latest metallic colors from Solo Stove.) Both the deflector and the Mesa are incredibly lightweight and require little to no assembly to setup.

The Mesa is good to go out of the box once the base is popped on the bottom, and the Mesa heat deflector takes just a couple of minutes to snap into place. All you have to do is slide three legs onto the included base ring and secure them to the underside of the deflector. After that, your heat deflector is ready to sit on top of your Mesa fire pit. It’s recommended that you start a fire using pellets or mini logs and allow the fire to burn for five to 10 minutes before placing the heat deflector on top. Youll want to use high-heat gloves or tools to gently place the deflectors base ring inside the outer lip of the Mesa.

Once your fire is roaring and the deflector is placed on top of the Mesa, you should notice heat radiating from the fire pit. With secure and spaced posts, you can add additional fuel while the heat deflector is in place and enjoy the warmth and coziness of your Mesa for as long as you desire.

I was surprised by the amount of heat the Mesa put out with the added heat deflector. My partner and I gathered around the fire pit on a chilly evening and noticed significant warmth radiating from it while it sat in between us (about 1.5 feet away from each of us). Plus, the new metallic finish added a festive holiday hue and a dose of cheer to our patio. I can’t wait to use it when we have family and friends over this holiday season.

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Weighs less than one pound
• Durable
• Easy to assemble
• Easy to use
• Takes up little space
• Includes carrying bag
• Free shipping and returns
• Lifetime warranty

Cons

• Doesnt disassemble for flat storage, but assembled deflector fits into carrying case

Final Verdict

If you own or youre thinking about buying a Mesa or Mesa XL, the Mesa heat deflector is a must-have accessory during the colder months that’ll help you enjoy tabletop warmth and s’mores all year long.

Our Favorite Mesa Accessories

If you want to up your Mesa game, there are a few other Solo Stove accessories that I also recommend. In addition to the new Mesa heat deflector, I love theMesa accessory pack, which includes a pellet scoop, Mesa lid, mini sticks and stick rests for roasting s’mores over your small fire. Another winner is the mini oak firewood, which is cut to give you the perfect size flame in your Mesa. With zero additives or chemicals, the firewood is curated for quick ignition and a savory wood-fired flavor thats safe for cooking.

Where to Buy the Solo Stove Mesa Heat Deflector

VIA MERCHANT

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We Tried It

Solo Stove Mesa Heat Deflector

Planning to spend time outside this season? This is the must-have winter accessory for your Solo Stove Mesa or Mesa XL.

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You can shop the Mesa heat deflector now at Solo Stove for just $35. It looks like I’ll be spending more time outdoors this winter!

Article source here: Solo Stove’s New Mesa Heat Deflector Increases Your Fire Pit’s Heating Radius

How To Wash Shoes in a Washing Machine

Remove laces and insoles

• Pull the laces and insoles out of your runners or other washable shoes.
  • Laces tangle and prevent free movement in the washer.

• • Insoles can get waterlogged and misshapen.
• Knock out dried mud or other debris from bottom of soles.

Article source here: How To Wash Shoes in a Washing Machine

How To Measure Windows for Blinds

Adding blinds to windows can create subtle and delicate light, eliminate light altogether and give you some privacy. Your needs will inform what type of blinds you want and the best place to mount them.

Typically, if your windows have curtains, you should mount the blinds inside the windowsill. For windows without curtains, mount them outside of the window frame. Each type of blind is measured and mounted differently.

Check out this step-by-step guide to learn how to measure for inside and outside mounting window treatments. But first, some tips:

• Dont round down measure to the nearest 1/8-inch;
• Measure the window itself, not the existing blinds (if any);
• When writing your measurements, it’s width, then height (W x H);
• Use a metal measuring tape rather than a cloth one for the most accurate results;
• Once you’ve measured the window frames and chosen the blinds, review the mounting requirements before attempting to install the blinds.

How To Measure For Inside Mount Blinds

Measure the width

For width, measure across the top, through the middle and across the bottom of the frame. Go with narrowest measurement. Since the window might not be perfectly straight, measuring in three locations ensures the blinds fit.

Article source here: How To Measure Windows for Blinds

How to Build a Painting Bench

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	1	Top	11-1/4″ x 33″ x 3/4″
B	2	Leg	11-1/4″ x 13-1/2″ x 3/4″
D	2	Stretcher	4-1/2″ x 29-3/4″ x 3/4″
D	2	Foot	2″ x 14″ x 3/4″

Cut the parts

• Follow the cutting list and cut the parts to size.
• Cut the leg parts slightly longer. You’ll cut them to final length later.

Article source here: How to Build a Painting Bench

Does the Color of Windshield Wiper Fluid Matter?

As a General Motors master technician for 27 years, an ASE master technician since 1978 and an automotive technology teacher currently preparing the next generation of automotive service professionals, car fluid service is a topic I know inside and out.

Running out of windshield wiper fluid (aka washer fluid) is a major annoyance, especially if you’re trying to see through dirt and snow while driving.

Like its distant cousin anti-freeze, windshield wiper fluid comes in assorted colors. The color of anti-freeze is used to indicate its type and the additives the original equipment manufacturers specify to protect engines from overheating and corrosion. But no color standards currently exist for windshield wiper fluid the colors are mostly cosmetic.

Windshield Wiper Fluid Colors

Different color windshield wiper fluids are usually dyed for marketing purposes, and, depending on the brand can indicate different things:

• Blue: Standard year-round fluid, effective for dust and road dirt.
• Green: Summer driving, effective bug remover.
• Orange: All-season with deicer, effective against ice and road salt.
• Yellow: Winter with deicer, effective melting ice off the windshield with freeze protection up to -34 degrees.
• Purple: Concentrated wiper fluid mix for summer.

Regardless of the color, read the label to determine if the windshield wiper fluid you plan to purchase meets your vehicle’s specific needs. If your vehicle has a rain-sensing wiper system, choose washer fluid that doesn’t leave streaks and thoroughly cleans the windshield. Residue left on the windshield can confuse the rain-sensing infrared sensor located next to the rearview mirror, keeping the wipers on even if it is not raining.

Does It Matter What Windshield Wiper Fluid I Use?

It depends. Blue washer fluid works fine for most applications. It’s important to use a wiper fluid containing deicer during the winter if you live in colder climates with frequent snow. Look for bug remover windshield wiper fluid if you spend a signification amount of time driving on highways.

What Is Windshield Wiper Fluid Made Of?

There are no standards for windshield wiper fluid ingredients. The fluid is mostly water and may include additives such as methanol, ethanol, isopropyl or denatured alcohol, ammonia, dyes, mild degreasers, detergents and ethylene glycol (anti-freeze). Most washer fluids contain surfactants, which are chemicals that help the wiper squeegees evenly spread the washer fluid to better clean the windshield. Some manufacturers no longer use methanol (because it is a hazardous liquid) or denatured alcohol because it can ruin a vehicle’s paint.

Windshield wiper fluids free of harsh solvents

• Prestone Bug Wash windshield wiper fluid (which is green) contains no harsh chemicals or volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and is for summer use.
• Rite-Kem Bio-Clean windshield wiper fluid concentrate (which comes in several colors) is biodegradable and contains no ammonia, VOCs, solvents or other caustic ingredients or agents. However, you’ll need to add ethanol or isopropyl alcohol for winter use.

Safety First: Alcohol and methanol are flammable. Always use a funnel when pouring these fluids into the windshield wiper fluid reservoir and clean spills with plenty of fresh water.

Can You Put Water in Windshield Wiper Fluid?

Yes, but you shouldn’t. Water will dilute windshield wiper fluid’s cleaning ability and make it more like to leave streaks on your windshield. More importantly, the washer fluid reservoir, hoses, nozzles and washer pump can freeze and crack if you forget to empty the water before the temperature drops below freezing.

Can You Make Your Own Windshield Wiper Fluid?

Yes, there are many homemade windshield wiper fluid recipes people can try out. Most are affordable, and usually very eco-friendly. Here’s a basic recipe:

• 32 ounces white vinegar(other types of vinegar can stain your paint or windshield glass).
• 96 ounces water (preferably distilled).
• Three or four drops Dawn dish detergent.
• Clean one gallon jug.
• Mix all the ingredients, then pour into the washer fluid reservoir.
• Cut the vinegar to 16 ounces and replace with 16 ounces isopropyl alcohol for winter weather.
• Mix the solution well and use as needed.

Pay attention to the ingredients when concocting homemade windshield wiper washer fluid. Here’s a true story: It was snowing. My washer reservoir was empty, and the dealership where I worked was out of washer fluid. I needed something for the long ride home. Someone suggested using alcohol from the body shop. Mix it 50/50 with water, they said. “It’ll be fine.” Unfortunately, what I grabbed was denatured alcohol. The following week I found the denatured alcohol had completely stained the paint on the roof and hood, resulting in an expensive paint job.

Can I Mix Different Color Windshield Wiper Fluid?

Yes, if you must, but it’s not recommended. Mixing different types or color washer fluids isn’t dangerous. However, mixing washer fluids reduces the benefits of each, often making the resulting fluid less effective.

Pro Tip: The best windshield wiper fluid will not make up for worn or damaged wiper squeegees.

In my experience, the windshield washer fluid reservoir is one of the most overlooked maintenance items in our vehicles. Replace it if there is scum, muck or rust build up that can clog or damage the washer fluid pump.

Article source here: Does the Color of Windshield Wiper Fluid Matter?

Our Turf Expert Put a John Deere Lawn Tractor to the Test

Full transparency here: I’m in the professional turf business. I got my start as a teenager many years ago working at my hometown golf course. For about 10 years, I sold commercial turf equipment to golf courses, sports turf managers, professional sports teams and lawn care companies. This is all to say that I know a quality mowing machine when I see one.

So, when I got my hands on a John Deere lawn tractor, I was well prepared for the task. And if you weren’t already convinced of my prowess around a lawn mower, know this: I rigorously tested this mower for multiple months so I could give you the 4-1-1. How’s that for thorough testing?

What is a John Deere lawn tractor?

Founded in 1804, John Deere is a storied brand that’s been around for literal centuries. However, it wasn’t until 1963 that the brand produced its first lawn tractor (around the same time Cub Cadet did). The initial zero-turn mower followed in the late ’90s. OK, back to the type of mower I tested.

I received a conventional, belly-mounted lawn tractor from John Deere to test out, and let me say: It is one sweet ride. Upon ignition, I could sense the power and torque this machine was about to deliver. After the novelty of making a few laps around my lawn under the watchful eye of envious neighbors had withered, I began to pay closer attention to the experience.

As I said before, this is a lawn tractor. It’s not a zero-turn riding moweralthough John Deere still makes those, as well. Zero-turn mowers typically take up a lot of floor space in big-box stores and power equipment dealers. They also receive high marks in terms of maneuverability and productivity. However, they’re not for everyone. There’s a lengthy learning curve associated with developing the skill set to operate one. That’s not so with the lawn tractors from John Deere. If you can drive a car, you can operate this tractor.

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John Deere Lawn Tractor Features

When taking a look at my John Deere Tractor, the first thing I noticed was that the display dash is well designed and easy to read. It features a fuel gauge, tachometer, voltmeter and hour meter. My unit didn’t come with available power steering, which at first, I thought may be an issue. Not so. Guiding the mower around obstacles was effortless. I’m not sure why you would even need it, to be honest. The tractor also comes with automotive-style cruise control in case you’re mowing larger, unobstructed areas. Once engaged, simply tap the brake, and it disengages. The seat is adjustable and adds to the overall comfort of the operator’s station. There’s also a small storage compartment and cup holder.

The easy-start electronic ignition delivers a quick engine start every time. As expected, there are many safety features and integrated proximity switches that protect the operator from personal injury or property damage. The engine won’t start unless the parking brake is on. And, when mowing, the blades will automatically disengage when attempting to go in reverse. Pushing the PTO button down and then re-engaging is a bit cumbersome, but there’s a switch to intentionally override this safety feature. Otherwise, to re-engage the mower blades, you need to push down the PTO button and pull it up again. To dismount the mower with the engine running, you must have the blades disengaged and the parking brake activated.

I love the infinitely variable hydrostatic transmission. Travel speed in both forward and reverse can be increased or decreased by how far down you press the Twin Touch pedals with your right foot. It’s that easy. The hydrostatic transmission provides dynamic braking, meaning when you take your foot off the forward/reverse pedals, the mower automatically comes to a stop without using the brake pedal. The mower won’t coast when the hydrostatic transmission is in the neutral position.

The mower design offers good maneuverability, meaning it hugs sharp corners, trees and garden edging very well. Its well-designed steering and geometric configuration help keep the uncut circle to about 18 inches. This is impressive for a conventional belly-mount lawn tractor style. The mower comes equipped with large turf tires that provide a good grip, however, I did find it to be a bit underpowered when turning sharply uphill. I may be asking for a lot in this situation, but I did notice the mower had to work extra hard and seemed to stall a bit during this maneuver.

How We Tested It

My lawn is not large, and it’s littered with several trees, gardens, bird feeders and other obstacles tucked in numerous nooks and crannies. Add in a couple of small hills and it creates a potentially challenging proving ground for a lawn tractor. I was up for the task. The only remaining question: was the mower?

After a couple of mowings to determine the best angle of approach when navigating around these obstacles, I was very surprised at how maneuverable the lawn tractor was and how little extra trimming I had to do to finish the job. Yet, if your lawn is on the small side, a standard belly-mount lawn mower may not be the best choice.

My goal was to determine ease of operation and cutting performance, both in terms of the quality of cut and its maneuverability and production. I am pleased to say that I checked most of the boxes reckoning the John Deere X Series as a high performer when it comes to mowing lawns of various sizes, shapes or configurations.

Pros

• Nicely designed operator’s station
• Smooth two-pedal hydrostatic transmission
• Superior cutting performance
• Very versatile with many available attachments for year-round use
• Easy to service
• Powerful horsepower (HP) engine

Cons

• Somewhat underpowered when climbing hills with the mower deck engaged
• Manual PTO re-engagement after backing up is cumbersome

Product Comparison

John Deere produces various lawn mower types, including zero-turn, lawn, commercial and golf- and turf-specific options. Here are the following lawn tractor types to be on the lookout for and what differences you can expect between models. For reference, we tested a lawn tractor within the X300 line, but the John Deere quality is present in all the series.

• John Deere 100 Series: This is the most affordable line, which offers a two-year warranty on all mowers and decks up to 54 inches.
• John Deere 200 Series: Units in this line have a three-year warranty, cruise control and the smallest deck sizes.
• John Deere X300 Series: Twin Touch foot pedals are offered on these models along with a deck leveling system.
• John Deere X500 Series: This is the priciest lawn tractor line that features a longer warranty of 500 hours (or four years), the strongest HP motors and a larger 21-inch seat.

Final Verdict

I grew up on a small farm in Southeastern Minnesota and my dad was a John Deere guy. Having declared that, I will tell you I have no bias toward a John Deere. In fact, I used to sell against John Deere in the golf and sports turf markets. John Deere isn’t the only good riding lawn mower out therethere are others, like Cub Cadet, Husqvarna and Kubota, to name a few. Yet, there is something about a John Deere lawn tractor that quickly transports me to my happy place. It gives me a better sense of comfort and assurance knowing I’m buying quality.

A lawn tractor from John Deere will set you back a few bucks, but there’s a reason for that. John Deere has been making quality lawn tractors finished in that classic green paint since 1963. It’s the genuine article when it comes to lawn tractors, the one all other manufacturers try to mimic. As Benjamin Franklin once said, “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.”

John Deere lawn tractors aren’t perfect, as there’s no such thing. But after spending some quality time with one and focusing on the sum of its parts, I’d say it’s at the top of the lawn tractor food chain.

Where to Buy a John Deere Lawn Tractor

Like many equipment manufacturers, John Deere offers a good-better-best product selection. You can buy them at big box stores, like The Home Depot and Lowe’s, where light-duty options may better fit your price point. Or you can buy the beefier X300 and X500 series lawn mowers at authorized John Deere dealers.

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Article source here: Our Turf Expert Put a John Deere Lawn Tractor to the Test

How To Reseal Driveway Expansion Joints

Clean driveway

• Use a leaf blower or broom to clear any debris off the driveway.
• You’re trying to prevent loose debris from falling into the caulk as you’re working.
  • I once made the mistake of working on a windy autumn day and spent a fair amount of time plucking leaves out of not-yet-cured caulk.
• You don’t need to power wash or otherwise scrub the surface, though many people combine expansion joint filling with cleaning and sealing their driveway.

Article source here: How To Reseal Driveway Expansion Joints

8 Clutter-Free Laundry Room Cabinet Ideas

Ample Storage

If I had this gorgeous laundry room from @mmmillworksoflouisiana, you’d never hear me complain about washing or folding again!

The upper and lower cabinets wrap around the entire space. So there’s room for laundry and cleaning supplies, plus non-laundry things like gift wrapping and essential pet items. You can never have too many cabinets.

Article source here: 8 Clutter-Free Laundry Room Cabinet Ideas

10 Laundry Room Countertop Ideas You’ll Love

Timeless Marble

Elegant may be the last word that comes to mind when you think of laundry rooms, but this setup from @ourfrenchcountryfarm may change that.

The Carrara-honed marble countertop goes with various palettes and aesthetics and adds a touch of sophistication to the space without being overly busy. Because marble is durable and easy to clean, it’s a practical (though pricey) choice for laundry rooms. There’s no denying how great it looks.

Article source here: 10 Laundry Room Countertop Ideas You’ll Love

5 Best Pet Hair Removers for a Fur-Free Home

Best Overall Pet Hair Remover

Black+Decker Furbuster Handheld Vacuum

Dog and cat fur clings to many different surfaces, so the best pet hair removers should work well on more than a single surface. I have an off-white carpet on my stairs that’s nearly impossible to clean, even with my pet hair vacuum. Fur collects on both the horizontal steps and vertical facings. The Furbuster handheld vacuum comes in the ideal sizenot too heavy or bulkyto easily glide across all surfaces and collect fur deposits. I didn’t realize so much fur had been collected until I tested this product! The clear collection bin gathers the debris, and it was easy to empty it into my trash.

Plus, I loved the cordless design. My upright vacuum has attachments for this, but the cord hampers maneuverability. Once charged, the Furbuster goes anywhereon the stairs, in the car, on the furniture and on the bedspread. If you have awkward areas (under small tables) or deep furniture crevasses, it also cleans up in spots when it’s too difficult to move large furniture pieces. This product gets my best-in-show vote.

Pros

• Works on various surfaces
• Has two speeds and deep crevice tool
• Only weighs 2.6 pounds
• Easy-to-clean dirt/fur reservoir
• Cordless
• Battery lasts about 20 minutes

Cons

• Pricey
• Very loud

Shop Now

Article source here: 5 Best Pet Hair Removers for a Fur-Free Home

How Long Do Shocks Last?

I’ve replaced thousands of shocks and struts in my career as an auto technician, so I’ve definitely seen it all

A customer once complained about the sound of a bell ringing and sloppy steering, especially on turns. During a road test, I heard and felt the same things. During a visual inspection, I found the top covers of both front shocks had rusted! They clanged against and scored the shocks’ pistons, causing all the oil to leak out. Four new shocks later, the car drove and felt like new.

Shock absorbers are often overlooked. They keep our teeth from rattling while driving, of course, but also serve a much more important purpose. Driving with bad shocks can be dangerous and adversely affect driving stability, tire wear and braking. Here’s what you need to know.

How Long Do Shocks Last?

It depends.

Unless you drive recklessly, go off-roading, drive mostly on rough, uneven or bumpy roads or do lots of hard stop-and-go driving, shock absorbers should last about 50,000 miles, or four to five years.

If you drive cautiously and mostly on level pavement, it’s not unusual for shocks to last longer than 50,000 miles. But if you live in areas that promote rust and corrosion, or in climates with extreme temperature fluctuations, it can damage your shocks’ inner seals and shorten their life.

MacPherson struts, which are similar to shocks, provide a smoother ride and absorb vibrations. They can last up to 100,000 miles. But do not confuse one with the other. Shocks and struts differ in their construction, how they function and operate.

How To Tell if Shocks Are Bad

Failed or failing shock absorbers have a “tell” your vehicle will regularly bob up-and-down after a hard stop.

Here’s a test for your shocks: Push down hard on the bumper two or three times. Your vehicle should come to rest after one bounce. If it keeps bouncing, you hear knocking or you see fluid leaking from a shock, replace them.

Other indications your shocks need replacing include:

Longer stopping distances

Weak shocks cause the tire/wheel assembly to “hop” up and down, causing the tread to lose full contact with the pavement.

Remember, the section of tire touching the road isn’t much larger than the palm of your hand. This makes bringing your vehicle to a stop more difficult, especially at high speeds, because less friction will be generated due to less tire contact with the road surface.

Abnormal tire wear

The same tire/wheel hop can also lead to uneven tire wear. Called cupping or scalloping, that results in worn patchy sections around the outer edge of a tire.

Poor handling

Your vehicle will not ride smoothly or handle as well as the shocks wear out. Even hitting a small bump, pothole or ripple in the road can cause the steering wheel to shake, making it difficult to control the vehicle.

Strange noises

Weak, worn, broken or loose shocks and brittle or missing mounting bushings can cause sharp snapping or cracking when driving over a pothole, up a driveway incline or turning.

Mounting bushings are made from rubber, silicone or polyurethane. They act like cushions, absorbing vibrations and preventing the metal parts of the shock from rubbing against the vehicle frame or shock absorber mounting holes.

Excessive vibration

When driving over bumps or rough roads, the oil in shocks converts the vibrations into heat energy, then dissipates that energy. This reduces road vibrations. A shock with weak seals or low oil cannot dampen vibrations.

Can You Replace Shocks Yourself?

Again, it depends.

A shock absorber’s companion coil spring holds, or stores, tremendous potential energy. Think of it like a windup car. You tighten the spring until it compresses. Then as the spring unwinds, it releases that energy to propel the car across the room.

To safely remove a shock, its coil spring needs to stay compressed. Use a floor jack to lift the vehicle, then lower the suspension onto jack stands.

Some shocks are easy to reach and replace. Others aren’t, and shouldn’t be replaced by a beginner.

Check the vehicle’s service manual to locate your shocks. If you can see and reach all the nuts, bolts and other fasteners, and you have the right tools, then go for it. If the shocks are buried under other car parts, or the fasteners are rusted or missing, let your mechanic to replace the shocks.

If you decide to DIY it, you’ll need these tools:

• A 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch socket set with extensions;
• Box or combination wrenches;
• Hammer;
• Hydraulic floor jack;
• Jack stands;
• Rust penetrating oil;
• Safety glasses;
• Torque wrench;
• Wheel chocks;
• Work gloves;
• Impact wrench (optional).

Pro tip: Never overtighten fasteners when installing new shocks. You may not find a specific torque specification for the mounting bushing nuts.

Only tighten hardware until the outside diameter of the bushing lines up with the outside edge of the mounting washer. Tightening the nut until the bushing flattens or squeezes out past the mounting washer reduces a shock’s ability to absorb road bumps and reduce vibrations.

Cost Estimate To Have a Pro Replace Shocks

The cost depends on labor costs where you live, year, make and model, plus the quality of the shocks and the difficulty to remove and replace them.

Virtually every car on the road has only one shock per wheel, or two per axle. Always replace shocks on the same axle (front or rear) in pairs at the same time. Labor can run from $100 to $300 per axle.

Expect to pay $50 per axle for a basic or conventional shocks, or $100 to $300 for per axle for shocks that offer improved load capacity or handling, such as:

• Heavy-duty;
• Air-adjustable;
• Coilover (not to be confused with a MacPherson strut);
• Gas-filled;
• Adjustable, which controls how a vehicle rides and handles.

Before you buy anything, do your research. Replacement shocks should meet your driving needs. If your shocks are simply worn out and you liked the way your car drove when it was new, then install the same type of shock.

Article source here: How Long Do Shocks Last?

What Is a Vault Toilet and How Does It Work?

Two common waterless toilet solutions are outhouses (aka pit toilets) and composting toilets. Neither is suitable for remote locations visited by large numbers of people, like state and national parks, wilderness areas and freeway rest stops.

Large-scale composting toilets require regular maintenance, and staff may be put off by the unpleasant task of raking the compost. Moreover, composting toilets only work in moderate climates. Pit toilets must be relocated when they fill up, which makes them impractical in the long term for busy locations.

Vault toilets present a third solution, the one favored by the U.S. Forest Service, according to a 2009 analysis by sanitary engineer Brenda Land. Unlike pit toilets, vault toilets don’t release toxins into the ground. The only maintenance they require is occasional pumping, which she says the Forest Service typically contracts to local septic pumping companies.

What works for the Forest Service could potentially work for homesteaders in remote locations with access to a septic pumping service. But installing one can be expensive.

What Is a Vault Toilet?

A vault toilet is pretty much what it sounds like: A buried, rectangular concrete vault that holds human waste. It’s a holding tank, much like a septic tank, but without input or output pipes, so no water flows through it. Instead, waste continues to accumulate until it’s pumped out.

To keep pumping to a minimum, the vault must be large. According to Land, the typical vault installed by the Forest Service holds from 500 to 1,500 gallons. A vault for an individual homestead could be smaller, but a minimum capacity probably wouldn’t be much less than 500 gallons. That ensures adequate ventilation and separation between the toilet seat and the bottom of the vault.

The structure above the vault includes a riser, i.e. a pedestal or bench with an opening fitted with a toilet seat. The seat is enclosed in a shelter, which may be lit and insulated, depending on the climate and availability of electricity. To control odors, a ventilation system exhausts gases from the vault into the surrounding atmosphere.

What Is a Vault Toilet vs. a Pit Toilet?

Landowners looking for a waterless toilet system typically install a pit toilet. They can dig the pit themselves with shovels and other manual tools and construct a wooden structure above it for privacy.

The larger the pit, the longer the toilet can stay in service. But eventually, it fills up. When that happens, the only remedy is digging a new pit, moving the structure and backfilling the old pit.

Because a vault toilet can be pumped out, it never needs to be moved. But installing one isn’t something most people could do themselves. You’ll need an excavator and a crane, driving up the cost. The shelters for Forest Service vault toilets are often large, with concrete floors and walls.

A key difference between pit toilets and vault toilets is the way they manage waste.

A vault toilet isolates the waste from the rest of the environment. But a pit toilet allows it to mix with the surrounding soil, allowing liquids containing pathogens to potentially leach into the groundwater and contaminate it. This isn’t a major problem for a toilet used by a single family. But for one servicing the public, it’s a major environmental concern.

How Do Vault Toilets Work?

Conceptually, vault toilets are simple: Waste remains in the vault until it’s pumped out, and a vent system exhausts gases outdoors to keep the shelter relatively odor-free.

In a 2003 Forest Service publication, Land discusses design tips to avoid potential problems:

• Location: The critical airflow zone around a vault toilet is a circle with a radius of 20 feet. Ideally, the zone is free of trees and other vegetation to allow odors to dissipate. When that isn’t possible, selective pruning of tree branches, with an eye toward the direction of the prevailing wind, may be necessary.
• Venting: Most vault toilets are passively vented through a pipe that extends at least three feet above the roof of the shelter. Air enters the vault through the riser or a wall vent and exits through the roof vent, creating a draft that keeps air circulating. In heavily forested areas with restricted airflow, Land recommends installing a fan to assist circulation. It’s important to cover the vent openings with screens to prevent birds and small animals from falling in.
• Drainage: The floor of the shelter should be sloped toward the door to prevent water from seeping under the riser and into the vault. The manhole for pumping outside the shelter needs to be covered, with the rim of the opening raised a few inches from the ground to keep out water. Land cautions against putting the manhole under the edge of the roof, to prevent falling rainwater from seeping under the cover and getting into the vault.

About the Expert

• Brenda Land is a sanitary engineer with the San Dimas Technology and Development Center in San Dimas, California. Over the last 30 years she’s written multiple articles on waste management for the U.S. Forest Service.

Article source here: What Is a Vault Toilet and How Does It Work?