Winter’s coming, and one of the most important winterization tasks you can do is to make sure your home has enough insulation. Even if it does, says Andre Kazimierski of HomeHero Roofing, you won’t stay warm if your house leaks air. “Sealing gaps goes a very long way with improving overall insulation,” he says, but sealing isn’t enough. If you want to stay warm, you have to reduce heat transfer through wood, metal and other materials from which your house is constructed, and that takes insulation.
Robust insulation doesn’t just keep your house warmer. It protects your water system from freezing and prevents your HVAC system from overworking and costing you money. It’s common for energy bills to go up in the winter — ours certainly do — but who needs the extra expense of an unreasonable spike, especially at a time when prices are rising across the board? You can prevent that by putting some effort into insulating all the parts of your house. Here’s how.
Attic and Roof Spaces

Attic and roof spaces should be a number-one priority, says Kazimierski. As your roof ages, it develops gaps that allow cold air into the attic, which can then leak into the home. He recommends hiring a roofer to do an inspection and seal the gaps as part of your winterization program, especially if the roof is old and weathered. He also recommends adding rigid foam or spray insulation to the underside of the roof deck.
Because most attics are vented, a certain amount of air circulation is normal, so it’s important to thermally separate it from the rest of the house by insulating the floor, either with fiberglass batt or blown-in insulation. If it’s already there, but you feel drafts through the ceiling, look for gaps and fill them in, or add an extra layer.
Exterior Walls
Because wood is a poor heat conductor, wood siding provides some insulation value, but not enough to keep you warm without insulation. Poorly insulated brick and concrete, says contractor Bob Cardwell of Cardwell HVAC, act like heat sinks, absorbing heat from inside and radiating it outdoors. What insulation to use? “Blown-in insulation is a good choice if the walls are already finished and you don’t want to open them up,” he says. “Spray foam is good for sealing gaps and air leaks in walls.”
Windows and Doors

“One of the best winterization tasks you can do before winter is to replace the rubber seals on windows and exterior doors,” says Cardwell. “Over time, those rubber seals shrink, get brittle, and that allows the heat to escape and the cold air to sneak inside.” You don’t have to do it every year, but you should definitely check in the fall to see if it’s necessary.
While you’re at it, check the weatherstripping around doors and windows, and replace it if necessary. Cardwell recommends installing a foam sweep under on the bottom of every exterior door as insurance against drafts.
Pipes and Plumbing
Winterization doesn’t mean insulating all your water pipes, but it’s important to protect the ones near exterior walls and running through unheated spaces, like the attic, basement or crawl space, to prevent them from freezing. Also, it’s a good idea to insulate hot water pipes to prevent heat loss and save energy.
“Use foam pipe sleeves if the pipes are exposed but the area stays somewhat protected, and use electric heat cables if the pipes are in places that regularly drop below 32-degrees,” advises Cardwell.
Basement and Crawl Space
Almost every home has air leaks around the rim joist, sill plate, and foundation penetrations for pipes and wires. Cardwell recommends filling gaps around the rim joist with closed-cell foam insulation, which provides better insulation than open-cell foam in the damp environment of a basement. Use expanding foam around pipes and wires and caulk for smaller foundation gaps and cracks.
“Pay special attention to the air leaks around the rim joist, because it runs around the entire perimeter of the house and is a common path for cold outdoor air to enter,” he advises.
Garage Walls and Ceilings

A garage generally doesn’t need to be fully insulated, but if it shares a wall with the house, that wall needs insulation. Cardwell recommends moisture-resistant insulation, like closed-cell spray foam or rigid foam board, because garages are typically damp in the winter.
If your garage has finished walls and you use it for purposes other than parking a car, treat it like the rest of your house. Seal gaps and insulate the walls and ceiling.
HVAC Ductwork
Leaks at joints and seams in ductwork become more likely as the ductwork ages, so it’s important to stay on top of them. “You can check if your ductwork is leaking by feeling for escaping air while the system is running,” says Cardwell. Leaks are most common from exposed ducts in the attic, crawl space and basement, and he recommends sealing those with mastic and UL-listed foil tape. “Ordinary duct tape dries out and doesn’t work well on HVAC ducts.”
Electrical Outlets and Other Small Air Leaks
A surprising amount of cold air passes through small gaps around electrical outlets and where pipes or wires enter home through walls. Cardwell recommends using foam outlet gaskets for outlets and caulk or spray foam for small gaps around pipes and wires.
FAQ
What should you insulate before winter?
All the experts I interviewed agreed with roofer Cody Purtle of Silver Ridge Roofing: “An obvious point that many overlook is that warm air rises. Due to inadequate attic insulation, a significant amount of heat can escape through the roof. That is precisely why I would start with the attic and the roof.”
Is fall a good time to add attic insulation?
Actually, the best time to insulate the attic is in the spring, according to Cardell. That prevents summer heat generated in the attic — which is the hottest part of the house — from reaching the living area. But, he says, if your main concern is keeping your house warm in the winter, early fall is a good time to insulate, because this is when you can often buy insulation materials cheaper and the attic is not too hot to work in.”
How can you tell where your home needs more insulation?
There are several indications:
- You keep your thermostat at a normal setting, but your energy bills are higher than expected.
- Some rooms are noticeably colder than others.
- You feel drafts, which means your home has leaks that need patching and more insulation.
- You notice condensation and black spots (mold) on your walls or ceilings, which almost always points to poor insulation.
It’s easiest to spot signs of poor insulation in summer, says Cardwell. “If your upstairs is much hotter than the downstairs, your attic is likely transferring heat into the living space.”
What areas of a home lose the most heat?
Rooms with exterior walls, those that face north and those next to unheated spaces typically need the most insulation, says Cardwell. North-facing rooms in particular get less sun exposure and are often exposed to cold winds. Moreover, rooms with a wall or floor that adjoins a garage, porch, basement or crawl space tend to lose heat to these spaces and need more winterization.
About the Experts
- Andre Kazimierski is the Co-Owner and President of HomeHero Roofing, a fast-growing residential roofing company based in Downers Grove, IL.
- Bob Cardwell is the owner of Cardwell HVAC and a seasoned heating, cooling, and plumbing expert. He has over a decade of hands-on experience serving South Jersey homeowners and businesses.
- Cody Purtle is the owner of Silver Ridge Roofing, which is based in Houston, TX.
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