Can You Wash ‘Dry Clean Only’ Clothes at Home?

There are many reasons I like to avoid dry cleaning. It’s expensive, and the last time I dropped off a sweater, they told me the turnaround would be almost a week. I definitely don’t have that level of pre-planning skills. Plus, there are other downsides.

“Traditional dry cleaning often uses harsh chemicals that can harm the environment and linger on your garments, so it should be done sparingly,” says Frej Lewenhaupt, a textile expert with Steamery. “There’s also a common misconception that dry cleaning is more gentle than other washing methods, but frequent dry cleaning can actually wear garments out faster.”

Given all of this, it’s tempting to try to wash clothes labeled “dry clean only” at home. Here’s when you can get away with it, and when you should stick with the professionals.

What Is Dry Cleaning?

Dry cleaning is a method of cleaning clothes using powerful solvents, such as perchloroethylene (aka Perc), or modern alternatives like liquid silicone or hydrocarbon, which loosen dirt and oils from fabric fibers. Dry cleaning is ideal for fabrics that can be damaged by liquids or the rough mechanical actions of home washing machines.

Can You Clean “Dry Clean Only” Clothes at Home?

Sometimes. Even though a garment’s care tag might state “dry clean only,” in some cases, those fabrics can be hand-washed. The best candidates are silk, wool and synthetics, like rayon and viscose, says Ira Lysa, founder of Imperial Alterations. But if the clothing is lined or has other multiple layers, is tailored or has decorations like beadwork, don’t risk a DIY clean.

“‘Dry clean only’ tends to be a conservative label,” says Lysa. “A plain silk camisole? Probably fine. A silk jacket with shoulder pads or lining? Best left to the pros.”

Even with fabrics that are handwashing candidates, it’s best to use caution because silk, wool, cashmere, velvet and acetate have delicate weaves and natural oils and finishes that can be damaged by water and friction, says J. Michael Jackson of CD One Price Cleaners. With handwashing, it’s common for them to shrink or the feel of the fabric to be changed.

“Also, structured pieces like tailored suits, lined jackets and padded shoulders all rely on crisp shapes set by interfacing and stitching,” says Jackson. “Water can collapse these inner supports, leaving you with misshapen blazers or droopy collars.”

Note that if a care tag reads “dry clean” vs. “dry clean only,” that means dry cleaning is a recommendation, not a mandate, says Jackson. “Always perform a spot test on an inconspicuous seam to check for colorfastness before washing the entire piece,” he says.

How To Clean “Dry Clean Only” Clothes at Home

If you want to attempt to handwash clothing labeled as “dry clean only”:

• Blot test a small area with cold water and a gentle detergent or baby shampoo.
• Handwash in cold water, swishing gently back and forth. Do not wring the fabric.
• Lay knits, silks and delicates flat on a towel to dry, to avoid stretching them out of shape.

It is sometimes also possible to spot clean a “dry clean only” garment. Using mild soap, gently blot the stain with a soft, wet cloth, or scrub gently with a toothbrush, and rinse under running water, says Taylor Sutherland, president of Charlie’s Soap. Both Steamery and Charlie’s Soap make mild detergents for just such a task.

To extend the life of wool, cashmere and silk, Lewenhaupt recommends airing them out to refresh them, which will remove odors and prolong the time between washes. Steaming can also remove odors and kill surface bacteria.

FAQ

What makes clothes “dry clean only”?

Delicate fabrics that can be damaged by water, clothes with intricate details like embroidery and beads and those with linings or which are tailored are typically labeled “dry clean only.”

What happens if you wash “dry clean only” clothes in the washer?

It can ruin your clothing by causing it to shrink, change the feel of the fabric or bleed the colors.

“Maybe you can pull it off once, or wreck the piece completely,” says Lysa. “Anticipate shrinkage, color dislocation or mis-formed seams. And don’t even get me started on the dryer.”

Is handwashing safe for “dry clean only” clothes?

Sometimes, but ask your local dry cleaners for their recommendation. “Certain delicate fabrics like silk and wool can benefit from being handwashed over dry cleaning,” says Lewenhaupt. “When handwashing, I recommend using a laundry detergent specially developed for these fabrics.”

What fabrics should never be handwashed?

Never handwash suede and leather because they’ll warp, get stained or stiffen irreparably. “Overly ornamental or structured pieces like beaded gowns, interfaced blazers and lined jackets are also risky, since water can damage the shape, or cause glue and backing materials to dissolve or loosen,” says Lysa.

About the Experts

• Ira Lysa is a fashion designer and founder of Imperial Alterations in Hoboken, New Jersey. She has more than 15 years of experience working hands-on with delicate fabrics and intricate designs including couture bridal wear and high-end tailoring.
• Frej Lewenhaupt is a textile expert and the co-founder of Steamery, a Scandinavian clothing care brand offering steamers, fabric shavers and other laundry products aimed to better the ways we treat our clothes. He holds a degree in textile engineering from the University of Borås in Sweden.
• J. Michael Jackson is a field consultant for CD One Price Cleaners, a franchise serving the Chicago area and beyond. He has more 15 years of experience in the dry-cleaning industry. https://cdonepricecleaners.com/
• Taylor Sutherland is president of Charlie’s Soap natural cleaning projects and scent-free laundry powder. He represents the third generation behind the company, and has headed it for more than 20 years.

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