WiFi is a hot commodity. Especially now, when remote work and school are critical to everyday life and people are spending hours online when many outside attractions are closed.
If you’re lucky enough to enjoy good, working Internet during this time, that’s great. But could someone else be taking advantage of your connection? Here’s how to know if someone is stealing your WiFi, and what to do about it. Plus, check out these WiFi extenders and boosters that will quicken your connection.
Realizing you’ve locked keys in your car is never fun, especially when you’re running late. Luckily, newer cars make it much more difficult for you to do this. But if you find yourself standing outside your locked car with your keys sitting in the cupholder, these tricks will come in handy.
Here’s a tip for the next time you have to send the dreaded “locked keys in car” text: Keep a roll of string around, and you’ll never have to cash out for a locksmith again. The video below shows you how to unlock a car door without your keys.
Just tie a slip knot in the string per the video’s instructions, creating a loop the size of your index finger at the end. Then, wiggle the string with the loop into the upper right corner of the driver’s window. Now, holding the string with both hands, move it gently in a back-and-forth motion (like you’re flossing a giant tooth). Doing so will shift the string further down the window and toward the inside lock.
This is where things can get tricky. Carefully maneuver the loop over the lock, pulling the ends of the string to tighten the loop at the same time. When you think you have a solid grip around the lock, gently pull up on it to unlock the car door. Voilà! You’re back in action — and back on the road. Before shifting into gear, be sure to never do these crazy things when you drive.
Try a Coat Hanger
The coat hanger trick is a classic; you’ve probably seen it in a few movies. All you need is a coat hanger and pliers.
“Use the pliers to unravel the coat hanger so you have one side hooked and one that’s straight,” says Laura Gonzales, marketing manager at Audi Bellevue in Washington state. “You’re going to slide the coat hanger between the window and the weather stripping. Once the hook is below the window, you can start fishing around for the control arm. Once you find it, pull onto it and your door will open.”
This method can be a little tricky, warns Bill Evans, manager of J&E Auto Body in Clark, N.J. Find a thin but strong tool you can use as a wedge. Pull the top of the door frame out with a pry tool and push the wedge in to hold the door frame out. Then, using a long, skinny rod (it could even be a coat hanger), push the unlock button.
“Triple A drivers and tow truck drivers usually do it this way, and that is how we do it also,” says Evans. “However, even the experienced people will scratch the paint or tear the weather stripping during this process, and you may need to see a body shop to realign the top of the door frame since sometimes they remain bent out away from the body after the wedge is used.”
So make sure the repair costs are really worth it before using a wedge to get yourself out of your “locked keys in car” debacle. If you’re nervous about damaging your car, you can always leave it to the professionals and call someone to help.
Viruses and other germs can linger on surfaces long after someone touches them. The length of time germs remain can range from a few hours to several days. (Yikes!)
Viruses and germs typically live longer on hard surfaces like plastic and stainless steel than porous surfaces like fabric and paper. That’s because porous materials are better at absorbing and trapping pathogens, making it harder to spread germs through touch. Viruses also live longer in lower temperatures, low humidity and low sunlight.
Knowing how long germs live on different kinds of surfaces and how to properly disinfect those surfaces goes a long way toward keeping you and your family safe. Here are nine not-so-common surfaces worth knowing about.
Soles of Shoes
A recent study confirmed that viruses can live on the soles of shoes. Keep germs at bay by removing your shoes before entering your home and regularly cleaning your shoes, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Another option is to use antibacterial alcohol-based wipes to disinfect soles.
Dog Leashes
Most dog leashes are made of cotton or nylon and contain a metal clip. Plastic may also be a part of the mix, especially if you have a retractable dog leash. Germs can live up to five days on metal, three days on plastic and several hours on fabric. Your best bet is to avoid touching your face while using the leash and to follow the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) guidelines to wash your hands with warm water and soap for 20 seconds after taking your dog for a walk. You can also hand-wash most dog leashes in a basin of hot water mixed with one tablespoon of dog shampoo. Let the leash soak for 10 minutes, rinse and air dry.
Dogs Themselves
Good news: There’s no evidence that dogs can give you a virus or other infection. So there’s no need to bathe them obsessively. Also, skip outfitting them with a face mask — besides looking funny, it could create breathing difficulties for your pup. That said, the CDC does recommend washing your hands before and after touching your pet. Those looking to play it extra safe can clean their dogs‘ paws with water and dog shampoo or with paw wipes like Pogi’s Grooming Wipes.
Reusable Grocery Bags
Besides harboring viruses for several hours, reusable grocery bags can also play host to bacteria such as E. Coli, yeast and mold. For that reason, it’s recommended you clean your reusable grocery bags after every use. (If you’re immunocompromised or especially worried about getting sick, you might consider switching to disposable grocery bags.)
Steering Wheels
Sorry to break it to you, but your car steering wheel is most likely teeming with germs. A British researcher revealed that a steering wheel can contain up to nine times the amount of germs that are found on a public toilet! Steering wheel surfaces tend to be made of less porous materials, so viruses could potentially live on them for several days. Most steering wheels can be disinfected with an EPA-approved disinfectant and a soft cloth. (Avoid paper towels, which can scratch a car’s interior.) Leather and more delicate materials are best cleaned with mild soap and water.
Car Door Handles
Cars and their door handles are made of metal, one of the surfaces where viruses live the longest — up to five days. So it’s a good idea to regularly disinfect car door handles with rubbing alcohol or disinfectant wipes.
Gas Pumps
Hundreds of people touch a gas pump every day, and viruses on the gas pump handle can live for up to 72 hours. Keep yourself safe by running an antibacterial alcohol-based wipe over the handle before using it. You might also consider slipping on disposable latex or nitrile gloves before pumping and tossing them when you’re done. Finally, it’s always a good idea to wash your hands or use a hand sanitizer when you’re done fueling.
Eyeglasses
Eyeglass frames are made of plastic, which viruses can live on for up to three days. What’s more, they can live for up to five days on the glass lens. That’s troubling when you consider your spectacles sit so close to your eyes, nose and mouth where pathogens typically invade. Your best bet is to avoid touching your glasses as much as possible and to clean them often. Start by running them under lukewarm water, then use a dish detergent to thoroughly clean every part of the lens and frame. Finish up by drying them with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth.
Credit Cards
Viruses can attach themselves to your plastic payment cards for up to three days, so keep them germ-free by disinfecting after every use. Clean them for 20 seconds with good old soap and water or use an EPA-approved disinfectant for killing viruses. Just make sure your signature is still visible. If not, sign the card again after it dries. It’s a good idea to clean your wallet in general once you’re done with the payment cards.
You can experience the awesomeness of VR gaming with an Oculus Rift and a powerful enough PC. Or you can try the Oculus Quest, which bills itself as “the world’s first all-in-one gaming system built for virtual reality.” No PC needed. Just put on the VR headset, grab the controllers, and commence battle in whichever universe you choose to immerse yourself. Find an affordable smart home option with these devices all under $50.
Hand sanitizers can come in handy during cold and flu season and in extremely germy places like hospitals, medical clinics and doctors’ offices. And while dermatologists caution against overusing the gel on your hands — it can really dry them out — there are plenty of other uses that you may never have thought of. Pandemic or not, keeping hand sanitizer around the house is a great idea.
Smart thermostats do so much more than let you change the temperature through your smartphone. Different models can detect when you’re home, target temperatures to the room you’re in, adjust to your schedule and more. Here are three of our favorites, based on professional reviews and each thermostat’s features.
The Nest Learning Thermostat (3rd Generation)‘s biggest draw is its ability to learn your schedule. It will adjust over time so your house is at your preferred temperature throughout the day. You can buy optional Nest sensors to place in different rooms so you can target the temperature to the sensor you prioritize at different times, although they lack motion sensors to automatically tell where you are. The Nest is consistently one of the top picks on review sites and gets higher than four stars in customer reviews across multiple retailers. Check out these other smart home devices you’ll love.
The ecobee 4 Smart Thermostat includes a built-in, fully-functioning Alexa. The thermostat comes with a temperature sensor with motion detector so the thermostat can target occupied rooms; additional sensors cost $79 per two-pack. A combination of geofencing (in other words, where your phone is) and the motion sensors let the thermostat know whether you’re home. It won’t learn your schedule like the Nest, but you can program home, away and sleep events. This thermostat is consistently a top pick among professional reviewers. Learn more about the history of smart home technology.
The Honeywell Home T9 Smart Thermostat with Sensor comes with one motion-sensing temperature sensor so you can target the temperature to occupied rooms; you can buy additional sensors for $40, or $75 for a two-pack. It uses geofencing, but only to tell when you’re not home, and you can set a schedule, but this thermostat won’t learn your schedule like the Nest. This model, and the older Honeywell Lyric T5, are frequent budget picks on review sites.
Before you pick a smart thermostat, evaluate your home’s setup to make sure a specific thermostat will work for you.
Mind the C-wire: Most smart thermostats require a C-wire, or common wire, connected to the HVAC system to provide a return path for power to the thermostat. An existing C-wire isn’t always in the wall, especially in older homes. You can install a C-wire or adapt your setup if you want to install a thermostat that requires a C-wire. Will it work with your HVAC?: Check the types of heating and cooling systems a thermostat is compatible with before you buy. If you have dual zones in your home, or separate heating and cooling systems, see whether you’ll need multiple thermostats.
Other integrations: If you already use smart home devices, see whether your chosen thermostat integrates with your ecosystem, or if it will require additional setup.
In the beginning, a smart home was reserved for early adopters and the wealthy. That’s certainly not the case anymore! Read on to learn the history of smart home technology.
First Smart Home Technology
The modern beginning of smart home technology can be traced back to 1975 with the release of X10, a home automation platform that sends digital information through radio frequency bursts onto a home’s existing electrical wiring. Early adopters of this technology could remotely control devices in their homes using a command console and modules.
Cutting More of the Cord
Also employing radio frequency for smart home technology, the Z-Wave platform was introduced in 2005. It operates in the sub-1GHz band, which is not affected by interference from Wi-Fi and other wireless technologies such as Bluetooth. Products with Z-Wave built in form a mesh network and can remotely communicate from device to device. Homeowners can also add non-Z-Wave products to their network by plugging them into Z-Wave accessory modules.
Smart Home Technology That Learns
The Nest Learning Thermostat, developed by former Apple engineers, was introduced in 2010. It changed the game for smart home technology by making at-home wireless Internet the channel of choice for remotely controlling devices. It also introduced the power of data collection with its ability to track activity in a home and automatically program the smart thermostat settings based on that data. In 2014 Google purchased Nest Labs, putting the search engine giant at the forefront of the smart home tech race.
One App for All
Apple threw its hat in the smart home technology ring when it introduced the Apple HomeKit in 2014. With it, homeowners can remotely control compatible devices such as locks, lights, the thermostat, smart plugs, security cameras and much more through the Apple Home app.
Smart Speaker that Speaks
It wasn’t until after the first Amazon Echo smart speaker was on the market in 2014 that the mega online retailer realized the product’s potential in the smart home space. Alexa, the virtual assistant for Amazon’s smart home products, is now a household name—literally. And homeowners can control upwards of 28,000 Alexa-enabled devices using simple voice commands. Plus: Is the Echo or the Dot right for you?
Playing catchup, Google released its first Google Home smart speaker in 2016. Designed to compete with the Amazon Echo, Google Home does a lot more than play music. It, too, features a voice-activated virtual assistant that can control multiple smart devices throughout a home. According to Google, there are more than 5,000 Google Home-compatible smart home devices available and counting.
Where will smart home technology go next? The possibilities seem endless.
The life expectancy of your roof really depends on where you live, along with building design, materials and how much work you put into maintaining it. According to the National Association of Home Builders, a tile, copper or slate roof can last more than 50 years. Wood shake roofs should last about 30 years, while you’ll get about 25 years out of fiber cement.Asphalt shingles will give you about 20 years of reliable service.
A sump pump is one of the most important (and most ignored) disaster prevention devices in a home. When this simple system fails, the results can be catastrophic, leading to thousands of dollars in damage, daily disruptions caused by major repair work and higher insurance premiums for years to come. So spending some time and money on avoiding failure makes a lot of sense.
Some homeowners keep a replacement pump on hand in case their pump dies. That’s a good idea (home centers often sell out of pumps during storms or floods). But having a replacement handy won’t help you if you’re on vacation during a power outage or if your pump dies while you’re slumbering through a stormy night. That’s the beauty of sump pump backup systems: No matter what the reason for the pump failure, a backup system will save the day. In this article we’ll show you the options.
What causes primary pumps to fail?
The most common reason for pump failure is a power outage, not some problem with the pump itself. Common events besides power outages can also cut off the supply of electricity. For example, lightning can trip GFCI outlets, or someone can unplug the pump and forget to plug it back in.
Assuming the power stays on, sometimes the pump itself fails. Many inexpensive sump pumps are simply too small to handle the flow from a major downpour or rapid snowmelt. And because inexpensive pumps are built with less durable materials, they lose pumping efficiency. So the pump runs more often and burns out early. Or the motor runs but the pump doesn’t eject water.
Float switches are also a frequent cause of pump failure. “Wide angle” tethered float switches, the kind that free-float around the sump basket, are the biggest troublemakers. They swirl around the sump basket, making them far more likely to get trapped against the pump, discharge pipe or power cord. Once trapped, they can’t switch on the pump. Inexpensive switches can also simply wear out or cause motor burnout.
Sizing a Pump
Whether you’re buying a replacement pump or a backup system, you’ll have to determine the pump capacity. Here’s how: Disconnect your existing pump, pull it out of the basket, and check the GPH rating on the label or check the pump’s specifications on the manufacturer’s Web site. Buy a new pump with at least that much capacity. If your existing pump sometimes can’t keep up with the incoming water, select a model with a higher GPH rating.
Battery backup sump pump systems
Battery system components
A sump pump battery backup consists of a battery, a battery-powered pump, a charger and additional piping.
Manufacturers of battery backup systems usually sell three models: good, better and best, with “best” costing three times as much as “good”. The “best” units come with a larger battery and a more sophisticated battery charger. The larger battery gives you a longer run-time, and the better charger prolongs the life of the battery.
So how long will a battery backup system keep your basement dry? That depends on how much water is entering your sump basket (which determines how often the pump will run). Here’s an example: one manufacturer’s system comes with a 40-amp/hour battery that’s projected to last up to 53 hours (pumping at the rate of 2,300 GPH once every five minutes). But, if you have serious water problems such that the pump runs once a minute, that same battery will last only 12 hours. That’s hardly enough battery capacity to get you through an extended power outage. In that case, buy a system with a larger battery, or a system with a charger large enough to keep two batteries fully charged.
If you have minor seepage and rarely experience power outages, you’re probably safe buying a less expensive battery backup system. Then again, that savings could cost you big-time if just one 100-year storm knocks out your power and turns a sump trickle into a flood.
Advantages of battery backup systems
Simple installation—connect to existing discharge pipe or run a separate pipe
Unlike water-powered systems, battery backup systems work when there’s no water supply
Disadvantages
Battery may run down before power comes back on
Battery water levels must be checked every few months
Battery terminals must be cleaned twice a year
Battery must be replaced every five years (and costs about $100).
Figure A: Battery Backup Pump
If the primary pump fails, the battery-powered pump takes over and ejects water. A maintainer keeps the battery at full charge.
Water-powered backup
Above-sump backup pump
An above-sump backup unit has less chance of drinking water contamination and uses a less expensive type of backflow preventer.
In-sump backup pump
An in-sump water-powered pump always has water in it, and requires a more expensive type of back-flow preventer.
A water-powered backup pump uses water pressure to siphon water out of your sump. Most use 1 gallon of city water for every 2 gallons of sump water they remove. So a pump that’s capable of removing 1,500 GPH will use 750 GPH of city water. And that’s created a lot of controversy. In fact, a few municipalities prohibit their use due to already severe water shortages. So check with local ordinances before buying a water-powered sump pump. In an area with high water costs, the water bill can run as high as $170 a day. But keep that in perspective. If your power goes out for a couple of days, you’d happily pay a $300 water bill to avoid a flood.
Water-powered pumps require at least 40 psi and a 3/4-in. feed line to achieve maximum pumping rates. And they require a separate drain line and some type of backflow prevention to prevent cross-contamination with potable water.
Water-powered pumps come in two styles: in-sump and above-sump. An in-sump pump (one choice is the Liberty No. SJ10 SumpJet pump, available through our affiliation with Amazon.com) is always immersed in drain water, which raises the risk that drain water could contaminate the drinking water supply. To prevent that, most local codes require the installation of an expensive reduced pressure zone (RPZ) backflow prevention valve. RPZ valves must be professionally installed and tested annually by a licensed plumber. That adds an annual cost to the system. So check with your local building inspection department before you buy an in-sump system.
An above-sump unit mounts well above the sump, which reduces the risk of drinking water contamination (one choice is the Basepump RB750-EZ; sold at Amazon.com). Therefore, many plumbing inspectors require only a less expensive atmospheric vacuum breaker (AVB).
Advantages
No limit to run-time; works as long as you have water pressure
No battery replacement costs
No routine maintenance
Disadvantages
If you have a well, this setup won’t work during a power outage
More difficult installation because it requires a new water line, backflow preventer and new drain line
Annual fee for RPZ valve testing (if required by local code)
May be expensive to run in areas with high water costs
Figure B: Above-Sump Water-Powered Pump
This pump operates like an in-sump unit, using city water to pump sump water. Both kinds of water powered systems require a separate discharge line.
Figure C: In-Sump Water Powered Backup
When the primary pump fails, a water-powered pump uses city water pressure to siphon water out of the sump. With an in-sump version, your local inspector may require an RPZ valve to prevent contamination of drinking water.
Generator-powered sump pump
During a power outage, a generator can pay for itself in a dozen ways. One of those ways is powering a sump pump. A typical sump pump draws about 9 amps, so it won’t add much load to the generator. But a generator isn’t a perfect substitute for a backup system. A battery- or water-powered system kicks in automatically, whether you’re home or not and no matter what the failure. A portable generator works only if you’re around to connect it. And a generator (standby or portable) won’t help if your primary sump pump is kaput.
Figure D: Power Pump With a Portable Generator
Run a heavy-duty extension cord from the sump pump to the generator.
Know when your pump is dead
Too often, homeowners don’t discover a sump pump failure until they see the damage. But there are ways to avoid that:
If you buy a new AC sump pump run by a controller, it’ll have some type of alarm to let you know if the pump fails or the power goes out. The same holds true for most new battery-powered systems.
Local Alarm. Detects water at the top of the sump basket using either a probe or a float and sounds an audible alarm (such as the BWD-HWA Basement Watchdog Water Sensor and Alarm; available through our affiliation with Amazon.com). Local alarms are great if someone is home at the time of the failure.
Verbal Message Via Landline. Detects water at the sump and dials a preprogrammed phone number and plays a recorded message (one choice is the Control Products WA-700 WaterAlarm Dialer; from Amazon.com). Also sounds an audible alarm. Must have a landline.
Text Messaging. Detects water at the sump and sends a text to three different cell phones. Search “high water text notification” for companies that provide this service.
How to Buy a Primary Sump Pump
Home centers sell a confusing array of sump pumps that range from $50 to $250. But don’t despair. We’ve reviewed all the specs, talked to the engineers and boiled it down to five simple buying tips:
1. Horsepower means nothing. It’s the pumping volume in gallons per hour (GPH) that counts. Check the capacity of your current pump. If your current pump keeps up with the flow during the heaviest rainstorms, buy that capacity again. If not, buy a pump with a higher GPH rating. To find your current pump’s rating, locate its make and model number on the label and find the specs on the manufacturer’s Web site.
2. Check the “head” on the manufacturer’s GPH rating. Head is the height that water has to be lifted from the pump to the horizontal discharge pipe. More height means harder work for the pump. The GPH rating on most good-quality pumps includes the head (typically 10 ft.). But some manufacturers rate pump capacity without head (“3200 GPH at 0 head” for example). That gives an unrealistic—and misleading—estimate of pump capacity.
3. Spend the money to get a quality sump pump. Look for a caged or vertical float switch, a motor with a UL and a CSA rating, and a pump made with a stainless steel, cast aluminum or cast iron impeller and pump body. Avoid pumps made from epoxy-coated parts.
4. Buy an energy-efficient pump. Once you find a pump with the correct GPH rating, look for a model that consumes the fewest amps. This isn’t about saving electricity; high-amp pumps run hotter and burn out the float switch faster.
5. If your sump accumulates gravel or sand, buy a “top suction” pump that’s “solid passing” to prevent a stall/burnout caused by trapped gravel. Or raise a “bottom suction”-style pump on a few bricks to keep it off the bottom of the sump.
While you’re at the home center, buy a new male fitting to fit the pump outlet; pipe primer and cement; a new check valve and rubber couplers
Ever try to open your shades and wonder if you’re pulling the right string? Or worse, try to lower your blinds and realize you aren’t quite tall enough to get the cord at the proper angle? If you find your window treatments just aren’t treating you the right way, it might be time to invest in smart blinds. Whether you want to DIY or have them professionally installed, there are lots of different smart window blinds out there to fit both your budget and lifestyle.
If you do your own tree trimming, check out this pole saw. It features a bucking spike that allows you to rest the saw on the limb and let the chain do the work for you. It also functions as a limb hook, letting you pull those stubborn branches from the tree.
The pole comes in three sections that are easy to swap in and out on the spot, and extends from about six feet long up to about ten feet long. Altogether, you can reach limbs 15 feet up without a ladder. The kit with a 4.0ah battery and charger runs $200, or you can get the bare tool for $150. Next, check out a few other tools that are excellent for leaf cleanup.
If you’re still using a corded hedge trimmer, it might finally be time to leave the cord hassles behind. Many manufacturers make battery-powered hedge trimmers, but Worx has one with an intriguing feature: a rotating handle so you can cut vertically without contorting your torso. It takes just a few seconds to twist it the other way for horizontal trimming. This 24-in. trimmer includes two 20V batteries and a double charging station. Available for $150.
This leaf blower is compact and light AND packs a punch. The Ego 56-volt cordless blower boasts 530 CFM (cubic feet per minute) with a convenient variable speed dial. It also features a turbo button, so if you’ve found a sweet spot in the speed dial but need an extra push, it delivers the power you need. It comes with a 2.5ah battery offering up to 75 minutes of run time. You can get all that plus a charger for $200. Plus: Here are some other tools you need this fall.
If you own a boat or are thinking about getting one, you likely associate it with fun-filled days on the water in the company of family and friends. But your boat is also an investment and a liability. You need to protect it — and yourself — from damage, theft and accidents. That’s where boat insurance comes in.
Boat insurance, often referred to as a marine insurance policy, provides peace of mind, knowing you’re covered should the unfortunate or unforeseen occur. Let’s take a closer look at boat insurance, and whether you need to speak to your insurance agent about coverage.
Depending on the level of coverage you choose, a boat insurance policy serves two main purposes. It pays for loss or damage to the boat, and for damages or injuries to others related to boat usage.
Do You Need Boat Insurance?
If you have any kind of motorized watercraft, whether it’s a small fishing boat or an expensive ocean-going vessel, you almost certainly need boat insurance.
“If it has a motor, you need to consider at least liability coverage. The larger the motor, the more risk you will take on legally,” Wallace & Turner Insurance Producer Ben Galbreath says. “If you are financing a new boat, your lender will require that it be insured.”
Galbreath also notes that if the boat is stored in a marina or other privately owned location, the owners will almost certainly require the boat be insured.
These requirements are in place to cover damages to your boat, but the other important reason is liability. If someone is injured on or adjacent to your boat, a marine insurance policy covers some or all expenses that could otherwise be devastating for the boat owner.
“Carrying boat or yacht insurance is a smart decision that can help protect your financial well-being,” says Todd Shasha, managing director of personal insurance product management for Travelers.
And while non-motorized boats such as canoes and kayaks usually don’t require an insurance policy, Galbreath adds, they should at least be added to an existing homeowner’s policy. That’s especially true if you keep the boat at a cabin or holiday home. “If you are loaning out the canoe or kayak to someone,” he says, “you’ll need liability coverage, at a minimum.”
How Does Boat Insurance Protect You?
Boat insurance coverage depends on your state, your insurance company and the coverage options you choose, Shasha explains. Standard options typically include:
Physical damage. This includes damage caused by collisions with another boat or a submerged object.
Liability. If you cause an accident with your boat or someone is injured while aboard, the bodily injury or damage to the property of others is covered.
Personal property. If the boat sinks, your items, such as phones, cameras and fishing gear may be covered.
Towing and assistance. Per Shasha, this includes “reimbursement for emergency transportation of your boat to the closest repair facility when it’s inoperable, gas delivery (but not the cost of the gas) and roadside assistance reimbursement.”
Theft. Most boat insurance policies cover theft of the boat itself, but might not cover theft of items onboard.
Two areas that may or may not be covered, but are definitely worth asking about:
Uninsured boater. “If you get hit by another boater that doesn’t have enough insurance or any insurance,” says Galbreath, “uninsured boater coverage will kick in to pay for damage or injuries.” Shasha adds, “If you cause an accident, or get into one, with an uninsured operator, you may be held responsible to cover related expenses, such as repairs, property damage, medical bills, lost wages, legal fees and more.”
Hurricane coverage. If you live in the eastern/southeastern U.S. or anywhere with the possibility of hurricanes, ask if your boat is covered for storm-related loss or damage.
Types of Boat Insurance
Damage reimbursement and liability are two sides of the same coin with boat insurance. Galbreath says liability requirements depend on state laws, as well as lender requirements if you have a mortgage or loan on the boat.
“Another variable for coverage,” he says, “is if the boat will be out on a private lake, on a state lake or reservoir, a river or tributary, or on open water or the ocean.” The greater the risks of adverse weather, theft or unfortunate encounters with other boaters, the more detailed the policy will be.
Average Cost Ranges of Boat Insurance
Boat insurance premiums range from low to costly, Galbreath says, and some small motorboats may be endorsed (added) onto an existing homeowner’s policy for little extra cost. However, he says there are limits in the policy for the boat’s length, motor horsepower and maximum speed.
“You should consider separate coverage if you have a large, fast boat,” he says. “And the faster and larger you go, the higher the cost.”
So depending on the size, speed and location of your boat, your policy may cost as little as $100 a year up into the thousands. Most rough estimates we found were less than $1,000 per year.
When you meet with an insurance agent to discuss what level of boat insurance coverage you need, Shasha says to be sure you discuss the following factors, all of which influence the cost of your policy:
Your level of boating education;
The boat’s safety and security features;
If the boat is a hybrid or electric;
If you’re insuring more than one boat with the same company;
If you have another policy, such as auto or homeowner’s, with the insurer.
“Working with an insurance representative to create a marine insurance policy that fits your individual needs and budget can help protect you, your loved ones, and your assets in the event there is a boating accident,” Shasha says.
Enough 1/2-in.-diameter sisal twisted rope to cover tire
Precut oak circle or circular piece of plywood (to cover bottom hole of tire)
4 short wooden table legs
Screws for attaching wood circle and table legs 32-in.-diameter round glass tabletop (or size that will it on top of tire)
Craft moss (see note)
Artificial succulent plants Adhesive caulk
Glue gun
Power drill
Wood stain and staining supplies, optional
Directions
If desired, stain wood pieces. Let dry. Turn tire upside down. Using adhesive caulk, adhere wood circle to bottom of tire, covering the center hole.
To reinforce the wood circle, drill screws through wood into tire.
Drill four evenly spaced holes into wood circle for legs. Screw legs into holes.
With tire still upside down, use the glue gun to adhere one end of rope around edge of wood circle. Continue winding and adhering rope around tire, turning tire when needed, until completely covered.
Fill opening on top of tire with craft moss and decorative succulents. Lay round glass tabletop over tire table.
NOTE: To save money on craft moss, fill tire with bubble wrap, packing peanuts or polyester fiberfill and layer moss on top.
Did you really need another disposable pen, or did you just grab it from the display table because it was free? Seriously, toss broken chip clips and logo-laden promo items like street fair jar openers and summer concert drink cozies. Then donate festival and arcade prizes, like that oversize teddy bear that’s about to turn into a dust collector—find out where you can donate almost anything. Keep the plush toys you can’t part with fresh and clean by laundering them in the OTraki large mesh washing bag.
If you have an old mattress and box springs in good condition, consider selling it or giving it away for free on a website such as Freecycle Network, Nextdoor or craiglist. If you purchased a new mattress, see if the store will take your old mattress for recycling. You can also check with your local recycling center or garbage disposal service to see what their rules are with old mattresses and box springs. Yet another option is a junk removal company, like 1-800-Got-Junk?
Each year, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reports approximately 30,000 cases of Lyme disease in the U.S. They estimate that up to 10 times as many cases go unreported in the same time period. Lyme disease is serious business, causing joint pain and inflammation, loss of movement in parts of the face, severe headaches, shooting pains in the limbs and occasionally heart palpitations.
What causes Lyme disease? A 3-millimeter arachnid called ixodes scapularis, also known as the deer tick, is the main carrier and spreader of Lyme disease in North America. A 2018 study discovered that of 1,633 captured ticks of various species on Long Island, N.Y., more than half the deer ticks carried Lyme disease. That’s why learning to avoid deer ticks is so important.
Know Where Ticks Live
According to the CDC, deer ticks and other tick species are most commonly found in grassy or brush covered areas and forests. So do your best to avoid areas with long grass and fallen leaves. If you’re spending time in a forest, try to keep to the paths and avoid thick brush. The CDC publishes maps showing tick hot spots in the U.S., but ticks are so ubiquitous you could be bitten nearly anywhere. Many people report it happening in their backyards. Deer ticks are generally most prevalent in the Eastern half of the country.
Check for Ticks Regularly
According to the Mayo Clinic, removing an infected tick less than 36 hours after being bitten drastically reduces your chances of getting Lyme disease. That’s why doing thorough tick checks is a must if you’ve been in a tick-infested area. Check your and your children’s clothing, hair and entire body carefully. If you find a tick, remove it with a pair of needle-tip tweezers. Carefully grip the tick’s head and pull straight up, gently and steadily, until the head and mandibles slide out of your skin.
Start by trimming back any long grass near your home and keep it short. Rake up dead leaves in your yard and burn them, if that’s allowed, or take them to a compost site. Shower as soon as possible after coming in from anywhere ticks might be.
If you live in a rural area where your pet may run loose in possible tick hot spots, consider keeping it on a leash away from these areas.
To minimize your chances of getting Lyme disease, use insect repellent containing DEET, or a product designed to kill all ticks in a certain area, such as these tick control tubes from Thermacell. You can also buy clothes specially designed to repel insects from companies such as L.L. Bean.
Attracting hummingbirds is easier when you know how to tell the truth from the fiction. We took a closer look at some common hummingbird myths, and we’ve got the answers.
Myth: Hummingbirds hitch rides on the backs of geese as they migrate south. Fact: This legend is entertaining, but untrue. Hummingbirds and Canada geese migrate at different times and to different destinations. Follow these expert tips for attracting hummingbirds.
Myth: Leaving hummingbird feeders up late into fall delays migration south. Fact: You won’t interfere with hummingbirds’ migration. They know to fly south as the days get shorter. Here’s why you should leave feeders up for late migrating hummingbirds.
Do Hummingbirds Sip Nectar?
Myth: Hummingbirds sip nectar through their bills like a straw. Fact: Hummingbirds use their tongues to lap up nectar and sugar water at about 13 licks per second. Learn how to clean hummingbird feeders.
Should Sugar Water be Red?
Myth: Adding red dye to sugar water will attract more hummingbirds. Fact: It isn’t necessary to add dye to sugar water. Feeders with red parts do the trick to attract their attention. Learn the basics of feeding hummingbirds with Sugar Water 101.
Hummingbird Myth: Hummingbirds eat only nectar and sugar water. Hummingbird Fact: Insects and small spiders are also an important part of a hummingbird’s diet. Learn more about the foods that hummingbirds eat.
Myth: Hummingbirds feed only from red flowers. Fact: While red blooms draw them in, these tiny fliers will gladly feed from any color flower that produces nectar. Check out the colorful flower hummingbirds love.
If you’re tossing around the idea of building a home, to live in full time or use as your family’s regular vacation spot, you’re probably also wondering about the best way to finance the project. Is a traditional construction loan, with a high interest rate and a hefty down payment, the only way to go?
Not at all! While a construction loan is certainly a reasonable choice in many situations, there are other ways to foot the bill. Here are four alternative ways to finance the construction of your dream abode, in case you don’t want a construction loan or don’t meet the qualifications.
Hard Money Loans
Rather than your income, credit score and the amount of cash you have on hand for a down payment, a hard money loan is all about assets, says Denver mortgage broker Chris Roberts. With this type of loan, the real estate you are purchasing serves as collateral. If you default, the land/structure goes to the lender.
“The lender is comfortable lending you the money because they know that if something happens, (the property) will cover it,” Roberts says. This option, Roberts says, is particularly appealing to retirees, who often have minimal income but plenty of other financial resources. If you own no significant assets, you are not going to qualify for a hard money loan, Roberts says.
And don’t head to your bank for a hard money loan. They are only available through private lenders, usually business entities but sometimes individuals. Also, be aware that interest rates on hard money loans are high and repayment terms short.
“Hard money loans are probably the highest (rates) … out there,” says Roberts. “We see them from seven percent to as high as 10 percent.”
Another downside: You usually can’t just use the money willy-nilly. Expenses generally must be pre-approved, and funds are transferred directly from the lender to vendor, supplier, contractor, etc.
On the plus side, hard money loans offer a quick turnaround. “You can get a hard money loan approved in five days, and they cut you a check right away,” Roberts says.
FHA One-Time Close Construction Loans
OK, but what if you have no assets, let alone decent credit? This doesn’t necessarily mean a loan to finance the building of your bungalow is off the table. It’s possible you’ll qualify for an FHA-backed one-time close construction loan, which is a loan insured by the Federal Housing Authority. You apply for and obtain these loans through the mortgage lender of your choice.
Similar to a traditional construction loan, an FHA-backed one-time close construction loan allows you to finance the entire project, from purchasing the land to paying the builder, buying materials and covering your lender’s fees. When construction wraps up and you move in, the loan automatically becomes your permanent mortgage, hence the term “one-time close.”
The main difference between this loan and conventional construction loans? Folks with less-than-stellar credit (a score below 600) can get one. You’ll also need a minimum down payment of 3.5 percent and an acceptable debt-to-income ratio.
Recipients are also automatically on the hook for private mortgage insurance (PMI). With non-FHA loans, the need for PMI depends on your down payment.
Getting a VA construction loan does require you to jump through a few hoops. You’ll have to submit forms your builder fills out specifying all your plans, along with your blueprints, to the VA. Your builder is also required to register with the VA. And everyone involved has to follow procedures regarding appraisals, funding, warranties and more.
Despite the extra steps involved, the plus side is you won’t need to come up with a down payment, which could be appealing if you want to build your home but haven’t had an opportunity to save. It’s important to note that with a VA loan, the home build has to be your primary residence. So if you want to use it to build that cabin in the woods, you’re out of luck.
Like FHA construction loans, these loans are one-time close. And like VA construction loans, they have numerous requirements attached, including credit score (640 is the minimum), who can build your house and certain administrative details. However, you can get a USDA construction loan with no money down, and interest rates are low.
Final Thoughts
The loan process can be confusing because lenders offer different types of loans. If you are seeking an FHA, VA or USDA loan, you can apply through a mortgage broker. Some banks and credit unions service these loans as well.
