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Friday, May 9, 2025

Choosing the Right Drywall Anchor: A Complete Guide

Types Of Drywall Anchors Plastic Expansion Anchors

Plastic Expansion Anchors

Cylindrical in shape with fluted ends, plastic anchors come in different sizes with varying load capacities from 5 to 25 pounds in 1/2-in. drywall.

What It Does: Plastic expansion anchors are inserted into pre-drilled holes, then expand when a screw is tightened to create a friction fit in the drywall.

What Makes It Different: Plastic expansion anchors are lightweight, inexpensive and best suited for non-structural, light-duty applications.

Pros and Cons: Plastic anchors are easy to install and don’t require a large hole in the drywall. However, they have limited holding power and may crack if over-tightened.

Types Of Drywall Anchors Molly Bolts

Molly Bolts

Molly bolts consist of a plastic or metal sleeve with strategic expansion cutouts. Available in plastic or metal options, they have weight capacities of 25 to 50 pounds in 1/2-in. drywall for medium-duty hanging projects.

What It Does: Molly bolts are first pressed into a pre-drilled hole in the drywall until flush with the surface. When a screw is inserted and tightened, the sleeve cutouts expand and fold up against the drywall for a secure hold.

What Makes It Different: Molly bolts are easy to use and hold more weight than basic plastic anchors due to their unique folding design that distributes the load over a larger area against the inside of the drywall. The screw can also be removed and replaced within the same anchor.

Pros and Cons: A great feature of molly bolts is that you can remove and reinsert the screw without losing the anchor inside the wall. These also don’t require a large hole to be drilled in the drywall. However, if installed too close to a stud or pipe, the anchor may not fully expand, which limits its applications.

Types Of Drywall Anchors Threaded Drywall Anchors

Threaded Drywall Anchors

Instead of requiring a pre-drilled hole, threaded drywall anchors are designed to screw directly into the drywall. Available in plastic and metal options, these have weight capacities of 25 to 75 pounds in 1/2-in. drywall.

What It Does: Shaped like oversized screws, threaded drywall anchors have a pointed, threaded body that bites into the drywall as it’s turned with a screwdriver. Once the anchor is flush with the wall, a separate screw is inserted into the center and tightened to secure your object in place.

What Makes It Different: The self-tapping, threaded design makes this anchor type unique among drywall anchors.

Pros and Cons: I love how easy it is to install threaded anchors, and they create less mess without the pre-drilled hole. However, one downside is that if they’re not placed correctly the first time, adjusting their position can be tricky. They’re also only suitable for drywall, and will break if installed in plaster.

Types Of Drywall Anchors Toggle Bolts

Toggle Bolts

These are my go-to drywall anchors for hanging televisions, heavy mirrors and large artwork, with weight capacities of 200 to 300 lbs. in 1/2-in. drywall. Traditional toggle bolts consists of a machine screw and a spring-loaded, winged toggle, while more modern versions have a flat metal toggle attached to plastic straps.

What It Does: Toggle bolts are inserted in pre-drilled holes, then secured with a machine screw. Whether winged or flat, toggle bolts pull snug against the inside surface of the drywall when fully tightened.

What Makes It Different: Toggle bolts offer some of the highest holding strength among drywall anchors and are one of the few types suitable for ceiling installations. The machine screw must match the toggle for proper threading, but different screw lengths can be used.

Pros and Cons: Toggle bolts offer excellent weight support for heavy-duty applications. They also allow for slight adjustments within the hole due to the smaller screw diameter. However, they need to secure something directly to the wall since the screw head alone won’t cover the hole. Traditional toggles fall behind the wall and cannot be reused, but flat toggles are re-usable. However, flat toggles are more expensive and the plastic components can sometimes break.

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Thursday, May 8, 2025

Master the Miter Saw in Days with These 13 Tips

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Wait for the Blade to Reach Full Speed

Be prepared for a startling experience the first time you squeeze the switch on a power miter saw. The saw will jerk and whine as the miter saw blade gets up to speed. Listen for the blade to reach top speed before starting your cut. Then lower the blade slowly and steadily through the board until the cut is complete. Hold the saw carriage down in this position and release the switch, allowing the blade to come to a complete stop before raising it. Maintain a firm grip on the workpiece until the blade stops spinning.

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Mark Danger Zones

Power tool safety is essential, especially with saws. Draw red lines on the bed and fence of your saw to indicate the “no hands” zone. Draw the lines 7 in. from 10-in. blades and 8 in. from 12-in. blades.

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Use Stop Blocks for Repeat Cuts

Screw two blocks of wood to the miter saw stand to act as a stop for repetitive cutting to the same length. Set the lower block back about 1/2 in. so that if sawdust or wood chips pile up against it, they won’t affect the cutting length.

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Build a Jig to Hold Crowns and Coves

Construct a jig to hold crown moldings at the correct angle. Set a scrap of your molding upside down in the jig and mark the position of the stop. Screw the stop to the jig. Place all fasteners away from the path of the blade. Attach the jig with 3/4-in. screws through holes in the miter saw fence. Cut miters with the crown molding upside down.

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Use Shims to Shave Miters

Close a gap on the top of a miter by placing a skinny (1/16-in. or less) shim against the portion of the fence farthest from the blade. Slide the molding tight to the shim and against the fence near the blade. Hold it in this position while you make the cut. Caution: Keep your fingers at least 6 in. from the path of the blade. Trim the other half of the miter using the same technique. Use the same shim and place it the same distance from the blade. Drop the blade slowly through the wood to shave thin slices.

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Make a Miter Saw Stand

Use 8-ft. 2x4s for the base. Cut a piece of plywood about 16 in. wide and the length of the miter saw and screw it to the 2x4s. Rip 2×4 blocks so they’ll support the 1×8 top flush with the bed of the saw. Screw the blocks to the long 2x4s. Then screw the 1×8 bed extensions to the blocks.

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Retrofit a Miter Saw With a Laser

If you’ve seen those laser cutting guides on miter saws and wonder if you can add one to your old saw, take heart. It’s possible, and not terribly expensive. The guide fits alongside the blade, replacing the outer washer. When the saw starts running, the guide shoots a laser beam that shows exactly where the blade will cut.

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Add a Wood Fence for Cutting Small Pieces

Cutting off small pieces is one of the most challenging and dangerous operations on a power miter saw. You’re never sure where the piece will end up. It usually becomes a high-speed projectile when it falls into the spinning blade. But there is a way to avoid this problem. The auxiliary fence helps keep the cutoff from falling back, and stopping the blade keeps the teeth from catching it.

What if you need to cut a piece that’s shorter than the 7- or 8-in. hands-free area? The best solution is to cut short lengths from longer boards whenever possible. However, when you have to trim a short piece of molding, use clamps to hold it in place. The auxiliary fence comes in handy for this task by providing a better clamping surface. You’ll get better quality miters because the molding can’t slide away from the blade. And you’ll be assured safer, hands-free cutting.

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Fine-Tune Cuts

Adjust the blade angle slightly to fine-tune miter cuts for a tight fit. Nudge the blade adjuster and hold it in position until you tighten the locking handle.

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Allow the Blade to Stop Before Raising It

Complete the cut and release the switch. Now here’s the key. For safety, let the blade come to a complete stop before you raise it.

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Cope Baseboard Faster

Coped joints for baseboard look great but can be time-consuming. Instead of using a coping saw, learn to cope baseboard with a miter saw. It’s faster and works great for common baseboard profiles. Click here to learn how to do it.

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Back Up Small, Delicate Pieces

Back up small pieces with a sacrificial board to prevent the cutoff from being thrown by the blade. Hold the saw down at the end of the cut until the blade comes to a complete stop.

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Line Up the Blade with the Mark

Lift the blade guard with your thumb and sight down one edge of the blade to align your cut.

Caution: Remove your fingers from the switch while you’re aligning the cut. Firmly hold or clamp the workpiece. Then gradually release the blade guard and return your hand to the switch to make your cut.

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Is KN a New Car Brand? The Viral Misunderstanding Behind This Car Logo

If you’ve found yourself Googling “What is a KN car?” you’re not alone. Since Kia unveiled its redesigned logo in 2021, countless people have been puzzled by the sleek, stylized lettering that looks more like “KN” than “KIA.” The confusion has become so widespread that thousands of monthly searches now ask about the mysterious “KN car.” So what’s really going on?

It’s Not KN—It’s Kia

The short answer: there is no such thing as a KN car. What people are actually seeing is the modernized Kia logo. The South Korean automaker rebranded in early 2021, introducing a futuristic, minimalist logo as part of its larger effort to redefine its image—from an affordable, practical brand to one focused on innovation, electric vehicles, and bold design.

The new logo features connected, stylized letters that eliminate the horizontal line in the “A” and join the “K” and “I” in a way that’s easy to misread at a glance. To the untrained eye, it often looks like the letters “K” and “N,” hence the confusion.

As more drivers spot the updated logo on newer models like the Kia EV6, Telluride, and Sportage, many are left scratching their heads. This has led to a spike in online searches such as:

  • “What is KN car?”
  • “Is KN a new car brand?”
  • “KN logo on car meaning”

The misinterpretation is so common that even AI tools and voice assistants occasionally misread the logo. Some people have assumed KN is a luxury sub-brand or a new electric vehicle manufacturer, further fueling the misconception.

Will Kia Change the Logo Again?

As of now, Kia has no plans to revise the logo, which has had three iterations in the last 30 years. Instead, the company seems to be leaning into the buzz. And as more people become familiar with the branding, the confusion is likely to fade over time. Still, “What is a KN car?” remains a fun example of how branding decisions can have unintended consequences.

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12 Things People Who Always Have Clean Cars Do

12 Things People Who Always Have Clean Cars Do Gettyimages 1267591935

Avoid Eating or Drinking in the Car

“This is one of the biggest habits that separates clean car owners from the rest,” advises car detailer Parham Koukia. Crumbs, wrappers, and sticky spills don’t just make a car messy, but they also attract pests and create long-term odors.

My particular weakness is almonds, which often end up on the floor or between the seats, where they are difficult to retrieve. On a hot day, consumables like potato chips and cookies can easily get out of control. “Crumbs are evil,” warns Alex Black, a longtime car expert who maintains a website that reports used car histories. “Once eating’s permitted, game over.”

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Wipe Up Spills as Soon as They Happen

Koukia calls this the golden rule. “While the ‘No Eating or Drinking in the car’ rule might not be possible for everyone, wiping out the spills immediately is always possible! Most people with clean cars don’t let the spill sit and become sticky.”

Cars have drink holders for a reason (because who among us hasn’t packed a take-out cup of coffee or a soft drink for a long trip)? When they hit a bump, and some of the drink spills out, people with clean cars wipe the spills as soon as it’s safe to do so.

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Keep Cleaning Supplies in the Car

When a drink spills, a crumb settles into the crevice on the console, or you drive down a dusty road with the window open, you’re at a loss if you don’t have anything around to use to wipe up. Here’s a clean car tip from locksmith Tomer Ruderman: “Keep a microfiber cloth in the glove box, ready to tackle dust before it settles. A quick wipe-down of the dash, console, and door handles once a week keeps grimy build-up at bay. Even little five-minute touch-ups make a huge difference over time.”

Car Needs Cleaning

Manage Trash

What will you do with that paper waste, apple core and other trash that tends to pile up in a car? According to cleaning expert Scott Schrader, drivers with clean cars “remove trash, receipts, and wrappers after every drive to keep the car from getting cluttered up.”

Schrader and Black both also suggest tossing trash every time you gas up. Still, Koukia maintains that clean car drivers often go even further: “Instead of accumulating wrappers, receipts, and empty bottles inside the car, they have a trash can or a bin for everything that needs to be thrown out.”

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Vacuum the Car Interior Weekly

Here’s another clean car tip from Schrader: “Vacuum the interior, seats, and floor mats at least once a week to combat dirt and crumbs.” If you have floor mats—which you should if you want a clean car—remove them before vacuuming, because debris has a habit of collecting around the edges of the mats and getting ground into the fibrous floor carpeting.

If you heed this tip, Koukia adds, “As a professional, I would recommend doing it at home instead of using self-serve vacuums. Self-serve vacuums are more contaminated!”

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Use Floor Mats

“If you see someone with a clean car in areas with rain, snow, or dirt roads,” says Koukia, “it’s probably because they use all-weather floor mats. Using floor mats traps sand, mud, and water, which can be easily hosed down.” This habit alone, he maintains, can save hours of scrubbing and extend the life of the car’s interior.

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Avoid Clutter

“Clean car people treat their interiors like their living rooms. No eating (or very careful eating at least), no mess, and definitely no clutter,” says Ruderman. Of course, storage space is limited in a car, but you can always do as Harper suggests and make sure that keys, pens, receipts, lighters, etc. get stowed in the glove box or other compartments prior to picking up passengers.

As a handyman, I have a habit of keeping my tools in the back of the car, so they are there when I need them, but according to Black, that’s a bad way to keep a car clean. “Clean car drivers don’t overpack. The trunk and back seat are not closets,” he comments. “Less is more.”

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Use Idling Time Proactively

Stuck in a long line at a red light where you’ll be for several cycles of the light? That’s a perfect time to proactively clean things up. Clean car drivers clean the dash as they are waiting, says Black. “Parked in a parking lot? Quick cleaning.”

Schrader suggests that idling time also provides a great opportunity to wipe down the windows to maintain good visibility and keep the fogged streaks away. Ruderman adds, “A quick wipe-down of the dash, console, and door handles once a week keeps grimy build-up at bay. Even little five-minute touch-ups make a huge difference over time.”

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Watch What Passengers Bring Into the Car

“If you want to keep your car clean, I think it’s OK to be aware of what is getting into your car space,” says Koukia. “It’s not about being rude, but just a quick check for excess dirt on shoes, messy bags or containers won’t hurt!”

While you’re at it, make sure your passengers take everything they brought into the car with them when they leave. “A good rule of thumb is if it comes in with you, it leaves with you,” says Ruderman. “That fast food bag or coffee cup should leave the car the same day it enters.” Of course, this is one of those clean car tips that applies to drivers as well as passengers.

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Avoid Smoking

“Don’t smoke!” warns Harper. “Or at least don’t smoke in your car. If someone has smoked in your car, there are a number of quality air fresheners on the market that you can keep in your glove box.”

I used to violate this rule before I stopped smoking, and I learned the hard way that it negatively impacts a car’s trade-in or resale value. According to Harper, professional detailers have the right equipment and chemicals to get your car back smelling like new, but having to resort to them is a hassle you’re better off avoiding.

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Clean the Exterior Too

Drivers with clean cars don’t just observe the above tips for the interior; they also focus on the exterior. “Wash the car regularly to keep it looking clean and to protect your paint from dirt and other contaminants,” says Shrader. How regularly? Every two to three weeks, says Black. “Even a drive-through wash prevents the dirt from building up.”

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Maintain a Cleaning Routine

Koukia advises that keeping your car clean becomes much less onerous if you do it regularly. “As a detailer, I have some repeating customers who have a fixed cleaning schedule once every two to three months. They say that they don’t have a cheat day for car cleaning! And I agree to it because routine maintenance makes the process much easier for me, too.”

“Essentially, clean car people do a little bit of maintenance on a routine basis. No magic, just habits,” adds Black.

About the Experts

  • Tomer Ruderman has been an automotive, residential, and commercial locksmith for six years, working on small—to large-scale projects across Canada. He is the founder and owner of Car Keys Ottawa.
  • Parham Koukia has been detailing cars for nearly 15 years. He is the lead detailer and operations manager of Panda Hub, located in Toronto, ON.
  • Robert Harper is the Director of product development and technical support at Ziebart International Corporation.
  • Alex Black is the chief marketing officer EpicVIN, a company that provides vehicle history reports. A car expert for more than 15 years, he has worked at car auctions, vehicle history providers and more.
  • Scott Schrader is the Chief Marketing Officer at CottageCare, a home cleaning company with over 41 locations across the U.S.

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Winning the Unlucky Lottery? Ford Recalls Exactly 3 Cars Over Battery Defect

Ford owners have some bad news to grapple with. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has released a brief about several Ford vehicles that have a battery issue. This recall only affects a small number of vehicles so far, but the issue at hand is quite dangerous. Do your due diligence to ensure that your vehicle is not one of the ones with this battery issue so that you don’t put yourself, your passengers or other drivers at risk on the road.

Why Is Ford Recalling Vehicles This Time?

The NHTSA brief explains that “the fasteners that secure the junction box bus bars inside the high-voltage battery pack may not have been tightened securely, which can cause electrical arcing at the busbars.” This is a problem for two reasons: first, “electrical arcing increases the risk of a fire.” Second, even if you don’t suffer a fire, “a loss of drive power may occur, which can increase the risk of a crash.” Either way your vehicle poses a danger to you; minimize your use of it until the problem has been remedied.

Which Ford Vehicles Have This Battery Issue?

So far, Ford has identified three 2023 F-150 Lightning vehicles with this battery issue. The company will be mailing out owner letters in mid May, so keep an eye on your mailbox in case you’re one of the unlucky few to have this problem.

If this problem sounds familiar, that’s because it is. Last year, Ford recalled over 200 2023 F-150 Lightning vehicles for this exact same battery issue. As it turns out, not all of those repairs were done correctly, hence this second recall. If your vehicle was not one of the original 200 or so that were recalled in February 2024, you probably won’t have to worry about this recall either.

How Is Ford Going to Fix the Problem?

Ford has said that “dealers will inspect and repair the busbar fasteners and replace any damaged components as necessary, free of charge.” Loose batteries are nothing to play around with. Get this problem remedied as quickly as possible.

If you have further questions, you can contact Ford Customer Service at 1-866-436-7332. Clarify that you’re calling about recall number 24S11. As a reminder, the NHTSA brief notes that “this recall expands previous recall number 24V-144.” You can also contact the NHTSA Vehicle Safety Hotline at 888-327-4236; their number for this recall is 25V272000.

Source

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Wednesday, May 7, 2025

Monstera Health Check: Signs Your Plant Is Sick

The monstera I’ve had for years is one of my favorite plant babies. I bought it as a small desktop plant from Trader Joe’s, and it’s now an impressive, large plant in the corner of our bedroom. I’ve had to re-pot it multiple times, I’ve given it a moss pole to climb, and I’ve been excited at the emergence of every gorgeously fenestrated leaf. Luckily, I’ve never had to ask, “Is my monstera sick?” but with the plant’s popularity, it’s a question many plant parents may be asking.

What Is a Monstera Plant?

The Monstera deliciosa is a tropical plant native to the rainforests of Central America. Monstera plants are characterized by glossy, heart-shaped leaves, which develop fenestrations (or splits) as they mature. A generally hardy houseplant, monsteras are still susceptible to damage caused by conditions that aren’t ideal. Ahead, signs to watch for to keep your monstera thriving, and what to do to keep it happy.

Signs Your Monstera Is Sick

If you’re asking the question, “Is my monstera sick?” you’ve probably noticed that something is wrong with it.

Plant expert and host of The History of Plants podcast Megan Brame says, “There are a few ways your monstera is signaling things aren’t going well. Yellowing or drooping leaves are usually the first sign, eventually leading to brown, crispy edges.”

Similarly, marketing communications coordinator for the National Garden Bureau Gail Pabst reminds plant owners, “You must take time to look at your plants frequently.” She, too, points out that yellowing leaves can be an indication your monstera is sick. Specifically, “If a leaf is higher on the plant or yellows from the tip inwards, that can indicate additional problems,” she says.

Leaf curling can also be a sign that your monstera is sick. No new leaf growth or a lack of fenestrations (leaf-splitting) could be a sign that your monstera isn’t happy, but isn’t always an indication that something is wrong. Ripping leaves could also be a sign that your monstera is too dry, making the leaves brittle and prone to ripping. A leggy monstera, though not a sign of sickness per se, indicates that your plant isn’t receiving enough light. You should consider moving it to keep it thriving.

Misconceptions About Monstera Healthla

But yellowing leaves aren’t always a sign of a problem. Horticulturist and marketing communications coordinator for the National Garden Bureau Gail Pabst. “Yellowing leaves are a good indication that something might be wrong with your monstera. If one lower leaf turns yellow from the inside out, it might not indicate a problem and might just be older, but if a leaf is higher on the plant or yellows from the tip inwards, that can indicate additional problems. You must take time to look at your plants frequently.”

Brame points out that many people take non-fenestrating leaves as a sign that their monstera is sick, but this is a common misunderstanding. “Some gardeners will expect fenestrations to show up right away on new leaves,” she says, but “fenestrations only begin once the plant has matured and is totally content in its environment.” She continues, “If you think about it, that makes sense: The plant is giving up valuable real estate that would’ve been used for accumulating the things it needs for photosynthesis.”

Leaves that aren’t fenestrated are not a sign that your monstera isn’t doing well, but fenestrated leaves are a sign that it’s happy. “It’s only when things are going really well that the plant ‘thinks’ it’s safe enough to give up parts of its leaves to fenestration. Consequently, new growth rarely gets more than one notch or two, so don’t take a solid leaf as a sign something is wrong. Look for the other more common tell-tale signs instead, like yellow, wilted leaves,” says Brame.

Common Monstera Problems & How to Fix Them

Knowing the common problems with monstera plants and recognizing them when they happen can fix issues before they turn into full-blown problems that have you asking if your monstera is sick. Here are a few problems monsteras tend to have, and how to deal with them so you can keep your plant happy.

Floppy leaves

Monsteras are climbing plants, and if they don’t have something to climb, they will become floppy and unsightly. Brame suggests, “Use a trellis, moss pole, or grid wall panel to help prop it up. Plant Velcro is a popular way to attach monstera stems to a support, but any hook-and-loop tape, twine, or twist ties will do. Just make sure it’s not too tight around the stem, restricting it.”

Too much light

Monsteras are native to tropical areas and grow under the forest canopy. (In nature, they climb tree trunks, which is why you need to give your houseplant monsteras something to climb.) Living under the forest canopy means that monsteras prefer indirect light rather than direct sunlight. As Brame puts it, “Think of how sunlight could hit them while they’re closer to the forest floor. It’s going to take a lot of effort for that light to break through the thick treetops so monsteras only get hit with dappled light at best.” Monsteras will indicate they’re getting too much light through leaves that are yellowing, curling at the tips, or browning at the edges.

It’s important to try to replicate this lighting situation at home. Brame suggests “plopping your potted monstera somewhere that doesn’t allow light to directly reach the leaves, but instead fills the room with light. Things like semi-sheer curtains on a window or placing your monstera off to the side instead of directly in front of a window will do wonders for its health.”

Overwatering

As with many other plants, monstera is vulnerable to overwatering. Signs of overwatering include wilting and yellowing of inner or lower leaves. You may also notice that the leaves begin to “sweat” if you’re watering too much. Soil that doesn’t dry out between watering sessions also indicates overwatering.

Overwatering restricts the plant’s access to oxygen and nutrients. Pabst explains, “People often water too much rather than too little. Overwatering can lead to a lack of oxygen in the soil, making the plant vulnerable to pests.” Eventually, overwatering can also lead to root rot, which could kill your plant.

The first step in fixing overwatering is noticing that it could be happening by being aware of the signs. Simply adjusting your watering schedule may be enough to fix the problem, but if signs of overwatering continue or get worse, you may need to check the roots. If roots are mushy or brown, remove the damaged portion and re-pot in clean, dry soil.

To prevent overwatering, water only when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure your plant has adequate drainage holes so that excess water can flow out of the pot. You may also want to consider watering from the bottom to ensure the plant soaks up what it needs.

Too dry

Because they are native to tropical environments, monstera plants thrive with the proper humidity. You’ll know your monstera needs more humidity if you notice its leaves curling at the edges. Brown edges can also indicate that your monstera craves more humid conditions. Leaves that rip easily, such as when you brush past your plant, also suggest that it is too dry. To increase humidity, mist the leaves, add a humidifier to the space, or set your monstera on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water.

Is It Too Late to Save My Monstera?

If you’re asking yourself, “Is my monstera sick?” you could be dealing with issues of varying severity. You may have just noticed that something is off, or you may be finally admitting that something is wrong after seeing your monstera deteriorate for a while. So, how do you know if your monstera is worth the effort of saving or if it’s just too far gone?

While Pabst emphasizes how personal it is to decide whether or not to invest time and energy into saving your monstera, Brame describes some concrete steps to take: “My best advice for knowing whether a monstera is savable depends on the roots and nodes. If you’ve got a completely dead leaf, cut the stem down as much as you need until you see green on the inside. This might mean going as far as cutting it down to the soil line. If every cut shows nothing but a brown and hollow inside, and the roots are brown and dry or mushy, then the monstera is a goner. However, if you see a green center and the roots are white with a little suppleness, there’s still hope.”

FAQ

Do monstera plants need a lot of light?

Monstera plants need bright but indirect light. If they don’t get enough light, they will grow leggy. Because their natural habitat is the forest floor, they thrive in conditions that mimic dappled sunlight. This can be achieved through placing monstera plants in a room that gets a lot of sunlight but placing it away from direct sun.

What is the best fertilizer for a monstera plant?

A balanced all-purpose houseplant fertilizer is perfect for a monstera plant. You should fertilize every two weeks during the growing season and once a month during winter.

How long do monstera plants live?

A monstera can live for 20 years or more as a houseplant, and lives for up to 50 years in the wild, making it one of the longest living houseplants.

About the Experts

  • Megan Brame is a plant expert, science writer, and host of the Plantrums + The History of Plants podcast. She interviews botanists, horticulturists, historians, and other plant enthusiasts, and dives deep into the history of how specific plants have evolved from wild to cultivated. She also has 247 of her own plants.
  • Gail Pabst is a horticulturist and the marketing communications coordinator for the National Garden Bureau. She has a degree in Agriculture, Ornamental Horticulture from the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign.

Sources

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Slim Jims vs. New Car Locks: Do They Still Work?

I first used a Slim Jim when I locked my keys inside my ’81 Subaru. I was 16, and some stranger in the parking lot happened to have the tool. But he didn’t know how to use it. Since I had seen many a car thief in ’80s action movies use them with success, I figured I’d give it a whirl. To my surprise, it actually worked as advertised.

“I’ve certainly employed a Slim Jim in my repo days, particularly with older units where keys would disappear halfway through transport,” says Alex Black, chief marketing officer at EpicVIN. “It was such a sort of coming-of-age experience for anyone working at repo lots or with tow trucks. Now, however, it’s a relic more than a tool.”

But if you have a 20th-century car or want some Miami Vice or Grand Theft Auto nostalgia, here’s how to use a Slim Jim and whether they are an option with newer vehicles.

What Is a Slim Jim?

A Slim Jim is a thin, flat strip of metal made to slide between a car window and the weatherstripping, where it pushes against the locking mechanism to unlock a car door. They are usually between one and two feet long and one to two inches wide and made from stainless steel or spring steel.

“Decades ago, cars were built with rods that went from the car’s interior door handle to the latch,” says master auto mechanic Chris “Moose” Pyle. “If you could grab that rod and pull it, the door would unlock. That’s why the Slim Jim was invented. On newer cars, give or take above 2000, this tool will not work.”

How To Use a Slim Jim to Open Your Car

Insert the Slim Jim between the window and weatherstripping, about two to three inches from the door lock.

  • Move it down to the door compartment, feeling for the locking rod or latch that activates the lock; a small flashlight can help with locating it.
  • Carefully hook the Slim Jim on the rod or latch. Depending on its set-up, either pull upwards to unlock the door, or pull or push the mechanism sideways to unlock the door.
  • You will encounter some resistance, so pull with strength, but not force.

“It takes a lot of practice to get the hang of it and develop the feel and technique,” says auto shop owner and mechanic Alan Gelfand. “What seems to be quite simple requires the knowledge of the inner workings of each vehicle model. I have been practicing the technique for years and still have to deal with difficult cases.”

Pro Tips for Using A Slim Jim

  • Use a light layer of WD-40 on the Slim Jim to help it slide more easily;
  • Pace yourself, moving slowly and steadily. “If you hurry, you will overlook the mechanism or break something,” says Black.
  • Hold the Slim Jim flat and parallel to the window, to avoid bending the tool and scratching the glass.
  • Test it on an unlocked car first, to get a feel for it.

Common Mistakes When Using a Slim Jim

  • Forcing the tool can cause weatherstripping damage, bend the Slim Jim, break door cables or deploy airbags.
  • Fishing around blindly. “It’s a waste of time and may result in damage to the components,” says Gelfand.
  • Using too much force, which may bend the Slim Jim or break some interior parts;
  • Not being familiar with the type of locking mechanism before trying to open it.
  • Using a Slim Jim on newer vehicles, most of which it won’t work on.

Also, some states and cities consider Slim Jims to be burglarious tools, so if you are not a locksmith, to use one or even possess one can be considered a crime.

“Having a Slim Jim near a car that is not your property will get you arrested in a hurry,” says Black. “Even at your car, a policeman witnessing you do this will think that the car is not owned by you. Always be prepared to provide proof of ownership.”

How To DIY a Slim Jim

To make a basic Slim Jim, you’ll need a thin piece of steel. You can buy it, or use a hacksaw blade, a metal ruler or, in some cases, even the steel from a broken windshield wiper.

  • Use a set of metal cutting tools and files to shape the curved hook end;
  • Sand down the sharp edges using sandpaper; and
  • Put electrical tape on the handle for a grip.

Do Slim Jims Work on Modern Cars?

Usually not, because most have side-impact protection bars that block access, more complex electronic locking systems or sensors and other security features designed to prevent Slim Jim entry. Some newer cars don’t even have a mechanical locking connection anymore.

“So the Slim Jim became obsolete,” says Pyle. “However, new tools have been invented, and they too have been named Slim Jim. Although not made by the original inventor, most people locked out of their cars still say they need a ‘Slim Jim tool.'”

Alternatives to Slim Jims

If you’ve locked yourself out of your car, there may be other ways to break in. If your unlock button is on top of the door armrest, you might be able to use a coat hanger or other long-reaching tool to depress the unlock button. Pyle recommends a V-shaped rod for this, which will slip beside the glass and then turn to get better leverage for pushing the button. For doors and windows with tight tolerances, locksmiths might use plastic and inflatable door wedges, which help pry the top rear corner of the driver door open to make room for a metal rod.

“With the right tools, you can get into a car in about three minutes,” says Pyle. “The tools are available online, and YouTube has videos showing how to use them on many vehicles.”

Also, some companies, including Ford and Tesla, offer a remote unlock program. But overall, if you have a newer car, usually your best course of action is to call a locksmith.

About the Experts

  • Chris “Moose” Pyle is a master-certified technician with 20-plus years of automotive experience. He has also worked as an expert for JustAnswer, the expert on-demand platform, since 2006.
  • Alan Gelfand has been the owner of German Car Depot for more than 30 years, which is an independent automotive service center in Hollywood, Florida specializing in the service and repair of German vehicles.
  • Alex Black is chief marketing officer at EpicVIN. He has been a car expert for more than 15 years, working at car auctions, vehicle history providers and more.

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Article source here: Slim Jims vs. New Car Locks: Do They Still Work?

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