Whether you’re a tradesman, a savvy DIYer, or beginner, finding exactly what you’re looking for in a hardware store can be overwhelming. That’s especially true in the paint aisle. A wall of paint cans can look nearly identical, but thankfully, one recent viral hardware-store paint cheat code revealed that some of those cans contain a much quicker visual cue. Shortcuts like this can make a crowded paint aisle easier to navigate, but they don’t work in all cases.
Learn how the viral paint-can code works, what each color means, and why shoppers should still read the label before heading to the register.
What Do the Colors on Do it Best Paint Cans Mean?
The trick comes from a T&M Hardware & Rental video showing colored sections on certain Do it Best paint cans.
A white band near the bottom identifies interior paint.
A black band near the bottom identifies exterior paint.
The colors give employees and shoppers a quick way to spot the right type of paint before reading the full label. Do it Best currently sells Best Look interior paint in flat, eggshell, satin, and semi-gloss finishes, as well as separate exterior paint products.
Do Paint Can Color Codes Work for Every Brand?
No. Paint can color codes aren’t universal.
Manufacturers use their own packaging systems, so a colored band on one brand may mean something different on another. Some brands use color to separate product lines rather than sheen.
That makes the viral T&M Hardware trick most useful for the same Do it Best paint line shown in the video. Shoppers should still check the sheen on the printed label and confirm whether the paint is intended for interior or exterior use.
Paint labels can also include tint-base terms such as white, neutral, or deep base. Those terms describe the paint base rather than its sheen. Anyone matching an old can should check the brand, product line, sheen, base, and color formula instead of relying on a colored band alone.
What Do Flat, Eggshell, Satin, and Semi-Gloss Mean?
Paint sheen affects how much light the finish reflects and where the paint usually works best.
Flat paint has very little shine and can make small wall flaws less noticeable. Eggshell has a slight sheen. Satin reflects more light and works well in many frequently used rooms. Semi-gloss has a shinier finish and often appears on trim or surfaces that need regular cleaning.
Paint brands don’t always use the same names or group their sheens in the same way. Sherwin-Williams and Behr, for example, list finishes including flat, matte, satin, and semi-gloss, and eggshell.
The color code can help narrow down a choice, but the printed sheen on the can remains the most reliable guide.
If you have ever stood at a gas pump and wondered whether your car really needs that expensive button marked “Premium,” you are not alone. Gasoline pumps offer a small menu of numbers ranging from 85 to 93 and then politely wait for you to make a decision that could cost anywhere from a few cents to a dollar or more per gallon.
Those numbers are octane ratings. They do not tell you how much energy is in the gasoline, how “powerful” the fuel is, or how clean it will make your engine. What they primarily tell you is how resistant the fuel is to knock, also called pre-detonation. And understanding that distinction can save you money.
Let’s dive into what the octane numbers actually stand for and why it’s important to know which one you should be using in your vehicle.
What Does “Octane” Actually Mean?
A gasoline-powered engine requires three things to operate: air, fuel, and spark. Air is all around us, so it’s easy to get. It enters the engine and is mixed with vaporized gasoline. A spark ignites the fuel and air mixture, and the resulting combustion presses a cylinder down to rotate a crankshaft, producing the power that makes the car go.
Under certain conditions, some of the unburned mixture ahead of the flame front can become hot and pressurized enough to ignite on its own. Instead of one controlled combustion event, the engine gets multiple combustion fronts colliding inside the cylinder. That creates the characteristic metallic knocking or pinging sound heard as the vehicle rus, especially when accelerating. Usually referred to as “knock.” This misfire causes the piston to move prematurely or not enough, depending on when it occurs, resulting in incorrect engine timing.
Modern engines are generally pretty good at detecting and managing knock, but that doesn’t mean you want it happening constantly. Persistent severe knock can damage pistons, bearings, spark plugs, and other critical engine components.
Octane rating essentially tells you how resistant gasoline is to this unwanted self-ignition. Higher octane fuel is more resistant to knock. The more resistant to knock a fuel is, the harder it is to get it to combust. That creates a careful balance in fuel requirements between knock resistance and ease of ignition.
In general, gasoline engines in the U.S. are made to use fuels between 85 and 93 octane. Some require a specific rating while others are largely indifferent. The reasons for this are a combination of air mixture and engine compression. Higher air pressure (through induction, turbocharging, and so forth) often coincides with higher pressure before ignition in the engine. Higher pressure before combustion increases the chance of pre-ignition knock. This is why many turbocharged engines require higher octane fuel.
Decoding the Octane Numbers At the Pump
When at the gasoline pump, you’ll see anywhere from two to four options for octane ratings. These numbers are standardized by ASTM International for North America and enforced in the U.S. by the Federal Trade Commission, with the octane rating listed on the pump given as the Anti-Knock Index (AKI) number. Below that number, you may have noticed some pumps add the label “(RON+MON)/2” or “(R+M)/2”.
That’s the formula used to calculate the AKI rating for the fuel. The “R” or “RON” is the Research Octane Number, while the “M” or “MON” is the Motor Octane Number. Adding those together and dividing by two to get an average returns the AKI.
That means 87-octane gasoline isn’t 87 percent octane. It is a rating based on the fuel’s resistance to knocking compared with standardized reference fuels. This is why the numbers can be confusing when comparing American gasoline with fuel ratings used in other countries. Many countries advertise RON rather than the AKI number used in the U.S.
The test procedure for getting those RON and MON results is very similar. The RON is achieved by running an engine at low revolutions per minute (RPM), with valve timing varied throughout the cycle to increase the likelihood of inducing knock. The MON is tested the same way, but at higher RPM and with variable ignition timing added to further raise the chance of knock. Generally, the MON will produce a lower average result than the RON. The results of the RON and MON are then compared to a baseline and given a rating. Those two ratings are then averaged.
Why Do Some Vehicles Require Premium Fuel?
Higher octane does not equate to more power. This is probably the biggest misconception surrounding premium gasoline. Putting 93-octane fuel into a Toyota Prius, which was designed for 87 octane, doesn’t magically turn it into a NASCAR winner. If the engine’s computer isn’t designed to take advantage of the higher octane, you may notice absolutely no difference other than your wallet becoming slightly lighter.
However, there is an important exception. Some engines are specifically calibrated to take advantage of higher-octane fuel.
Many high-performance, high-output, or highly efficient engines frequently use higher compression ratios, turbocharging, supercharging, aggressive ignition timing, or combinations of these. Those characteristics can increase cylinder pressures and temperatures, making knock more likely. Using higher-octane gasoline gives those engineers more room to operate without encountering destructive levels of knock.
In those engines, premium fuel can allow the engine to produce its intended power and efficiency. Many turbocharged, high-efficiency engines require higher octane fuel to operate. This is much more common now, as newer vehicles use smaller, more compact, and more efficient engines that employ turbocharging, higher compression ratios, etc. This is true of vehicles that are not performance or sports-oriented, like pickup trucks, sport utilities, and minivans.
Does Higher Octane Help a Car That Doesn’t Need It?
This depends on the vehicle, but for the most part, higher-octane fuels are unlikely to benefit engines not designed to use them. Some vehicles can use higher octane to improve performance. Mazda, for example, often lists horsepower ratings alongside fuel octane ratings because the SKYACTIV engine family can vary valve timing more or less based on the amount of knock sensed. More knock likely means a lower-octane fuel, so the engine’s computer will adjust timing less often to prevent knock, thus reducing potential power output. And vice versa.
Most modern engines are designed to do something similar, though how much adjustment will depend very much on the engine’s design. The majority of hybrid vehicles, for example, will not benefit from higher-octane fuels because they use a less varied timing cycle to improve efficiency at the lower rpm rates at which they are most often running.
Is It Worth Saving Money By Going With Lower-Octane Fuel?
For most vehicles and the way we drive them, the answer is yes. Most of the time, paying more for the premium fuel isn’t going to improve your efficiency or clean your engine better. Most of the “cleaning” of your engine during operation, including the carbon buildup that is often talked about, happens despite the fuel, not because of it. The obvious caveat being that if your vehicle’s owner’s manual or the manufacturer recommends or requires higher-octane fuel, that is what you should use.
An efficiently burning engine free of knock will also burn nearly everything that would otherwise coat the cylinders and cylinder heads. The cleansers in fuel at the pump do very little cleaning inside the engine. Fuel additives, however, can have a bigger effect on carbon buildup, but are still limited as to how much they can accomplish.
The Short After the Long of It
The octane rating of fuel does not equate to its power output or performance level. It is a measure of how resistant the fuel is to early combustion under pressure, or knock. If your engine requires higher-octane fuel, you should pump high-octane fuel. Most engines do not benefit from raising octane levels unless the manufacturer specifically lists a benefit.
For these reasons, you can save money at the pump by using minimum octane fuel (usually 85 or 87). There is very little benefit to using high octane fuels in a vehicle that cannot utilize it.
Living in Florida, backup power is a serious consideration. Hurricanes and severe storms can knock out electricity for hours or days, and I wanted a system that could keep my home running without relying entirely on stored battery power or sunshine.
That led me to the Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500, a tri-fuel generator designed to work both as a standalone portable generator and as part of Anker’s Solix home-energy ecosystem. I’ve spent over a month testing it with gasoline and propane, both on its own and connected directly to my Anker Solix E10 whole-home battery system.
The biggest surprise was how easy Anker made practically everything about using a gas-powered generator. Setup took around 20 minutes, the app controls are excellent, moving the 110-pound unit is surprisingly manageable, and when paired with my E10 system, the generator can essentially take care of itself.
There are some caveats, particularly the noise and the considerable cost of building out the complete Anker home-backup ecosystem. But as someone who wanted a generator that could complement solar and battery storage during an extended outage, this is an exceptionally well-thought-out setup.
PAUL RANKIN FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN
We Tried It
Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500
A tri-fuel inverter generator that delivers up to 3,600W of AC power and 4,500W of DC power, with smart app controls and seamless integration with Anker’s home-energy systems.
What Is the Anker Solix Tri-Fuel Generator?
The Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 is a 224cc, four-stroke portable generator that can run on gasoline, propane or natural gas. It produces up to 4,500 watts of DC output on gasoline or propane and 4,000 watts on natural gas. For conventional AC use, all three fuels provide up to 3,600 rated watts through one NEMA TT-30R and one NEMA 5-20R outlet.
That DC output is particularly important if you own compatible Anker equipment. Rather than converting the generator’s output to AC and then back to DC to charge the batteries, the generator can feed up to 4,500 watts directly into an E10 system. The E10 itself is designed to accept that full 4,500-watt DC generator input.
You don’t need an E10 to use the generator, but after testing the two together, I think that integration is the strongest argument for buying this particular model.
How I Tested It
I’ve been testing the Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 for just over one month at my Florida home. I tested gasoline and propane operation, manual and app-based starting, Eco and higher-output operating modes, portability, noise, controls and its integration with my whole-home Solix battery system.
My longest continuous test lasted about two hours. I also tracked generator output through the Anker system while my home was actively drawing power.
I have not yet tested the generator on natural gas. That requires a professionally installed connection to my home’s gas supply, which I plan to add in the future.
My Home Backup Setup
My house already has rooftop solar and an Anker Solix E10 whole-home battery system. The system includes two E10 power modules and three battery expansion modules, along with the equipment necessary to manage backup power for the home.
Electricians Arcenio Garcia of Firstline Electric & Energy and Oswin Fernandez of Future Electric Solutions performed the installation. The battery equipment itself cost me around $14,000, with the pro installation adding approximately $4,500.
That makes my complete setup much more expensive than the generator alone, and it’s an important distinction for anyone considering the same configuration.
During an outage, the batteries are responsible for powering my house. My rooftop solar can replenish those batteries during sunny daytime hours, while the generator serves as another charging source when solar isn’t sufficient, including at night.
This distinction matters because when I say the generator supported my entire house during testing, the generator wasn’t directly supplying every appliance. It was providing up to roughly 4.5 kW of DC charging power to the E10 system while the batteries handled the home’s actual electrical loads.
Testing Process
Getting the generator ready for its first run was super simple. It arrived in pristine condition inside a thick, sturdy box with dense packing foam protecting the unit.
There’s almost no assembly. I removed a side panel to connect the generator’s startup battery, added engine oil and was ready to go. The entire process took me about 20 minutes (not including the trip to Home Depot for the oil).
Starting it is just as straightforward. After selecting the desired fuel with the physical selector, I could hold the start button for three seconds and let the electric starter do the rest. I also started it remotely through the Anker app. Both methods worked flawlessly throughout testing. There’s also a traditional manual pull start on the side of the generator, which is a great backup in case there’s any issue with the app or the electric start.
For fuel, I alternated between gasoline and propane, and switching between them required little more than selecting the appropriate fuel setting and connecting the fuel source. I had no starting problems, overloads, connection failures or app glitches during my month of use.
Under DC charging, I saw output reach around 4.5 kW, which is right in line with Anker’s advertised maximum. That’s often more electricity than my home happens to be consuming at a given moment, allowing the system to run household loads from the batteries while putting excess generator power toward replenishing them.
Pros
Exceptionally easy setup and operation
Gasoline, propane and natural-gas compatibility
Up to 4,500W direct DC charging for compatible Anker batteries
Excellent app and remote controls
Automatic operation when paired with the Solix E10
Very thoughtful cable, fuel and connection design
Heavy-duty construction
Large handle and wheels make the 110-pound unit surprisingly easy to move around
Physical controls are simple and clearly labeled
Useful Eco and Quiet operating modes
Can still function as a conventional 120V generator outside the Solix ecosystem
Cons
Much louder than I expected at higher output
Expensive compared with many conventional portable generators
Its most compelling capabilities are tied to Anker’s battery ecosystem
Complete whole-home Solix systems can become very expensive
Natural-gas connection requires additional professional work
Only 3,600W of rated AC output, despite its higher 4,500W DC capability
Features
Tri-fuel operation: The Smart Generator 5500 runs on gasoline, propane and natural gas. I tested gasoline and propane with equally trouble-free results. Natural gas interests me most for long-term home backup because a permanent connection could eliminate much of the fuel-management headache during a prolonged outage.
4,500W DC output: On gasoline and propane, Anker rates the generator for up to 4,500W of DC output. Natural gas reduces that figure to 4,000W. In my testing with the E10, I saw the generator reach essentially that advertised 4.5kW ceiling.
3,600W AC output: If you’re not using compatible Anker batteries, the generator provides 120V AC power through a TT-30R outlet and a standard NEMA 5-20R outlet. Rated AC output is 3,600W regardless of fuel type.
Remote app controls: This is one of my favorite features. The Anker app lets me start and stop the generator remotely and monitor what’s happening without walking outside. Anker also provides Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, runtime and charging information, maintenance alerts and scheduling. I found the interface unusually clean and free from unnecessary options.
Automatic operation with Solix: When integrated with my E10, I can configure the generator to start when the battery reaches a chosen state of charge and stop again after it has replenished the system. This means the batteries can quietly run my home and call on the generator only when they actually need it.
Three operating modes: The generator offers Turbo, Eco and Quiet operating modes. It gets loud at higher output. During my own close-range measurements I saw readings around 90 to 100 dB, while Eco operation was closer to roughly 70 to 80 dB. Those numbers shouldn’t be compared directly with laboratory ratings because distance and load make a major difference. Anker rates Eco mode at 69 dB(A) from 23 feet. From my driveway, however, I couldn’t comfortably hear the generator from inside my house.
Excellent physical design: Some of my favorite details are tiny ones. Covers open to provide access to the large DC cable and then close around it neatly. The heavy power connector uses a locking lever that clicks securely into place. The propane connection feels similarly robust. Even the gasoline filler has a surrounding runoff channel that should help contain small spills.
Weather protection: Anker rates the generator NEMA 3R and includes waterproof covers, along with a water sensor designed to shut the unit down if standing water reaches 1.6 inches. That’s particularly relevant to me in Florida, although I would still always position a running generator according to the manufacturer’s safety requirements and away from flood risk.
Portability: At 110 pounds, this isn’t something you’re picking up and carrying around. Fortunately, you don’t need to. The oversized swing-out handle provides plenty of leverage, and the two wheels make it super easy to roll around a driveway.
Product Comparison
The closest alternative I’ve found is the EcoFlow Smart Generator 4000. Like the Anker, it’s designed not just to operate as a conventional generator but to communicate with and directly charge compatible battery systems.
EcoFlow’s model is less expensive at a current starting price of $1,259, compared with $1,999 for the Anker. It is also lighter at 83 pounds versus Anker’s 110 pounds.
But there are meaningful differences. The EcoFlow is dual-fuel, supporting gasoline and propane, whereas the Anker adds natural gas. EcoFlow provides up to 3,200W of DC charging output, while Anker reaches 4,500W on gasoline or propane.
If I were shopping primarily for an inexpensive standalone generator, I wouldn’t automatically spend $1,999 on the Anker. There are plenty of generators that produce considerably more AC wattage for less money.
This changes if you’re shopping for a hybrid battery-and-generator backup system. That’s where the Anker makes considerably more sense to me. The fast DC charging, automatic E10 integration, app controls and third fuel option are exactly the features I’m paying for.
A Closer Look at the Anker Solix Battery System
The generator is the focus of this review, but my experience with it is inseparable from the Solix E10 because that’s how I expect to use the generator during a real outage.
And the combination is much more interesting than either component on its own.
What My Anker Battery Setup Includes
My setup includes two E10 power modules and three expansion batteries, along with Anker’s whole-home power-management equipment. Arcenio Garcia of Firstline Electric & Energy and Oswin Fernandez of Future Electric Solutions installed the system.
The E10 is a modular platform. Anker says systems can scale from 6kWh up to 90kWh of battery capacity, while output can also be expanded by adding E10 units.
My own configuration cost around $14,000 for the equipment, plus another $4,500 for professional electrical installation. Add the $1,999 generator and you’re talking about approximately $20,500 for my particular setup. That’s clearly not cheap.
Still, one of the electricians working on my installation told me that he considers Anker one of the strongest brands he’s currently seeing in the home-energy space. I didn’t treat that as a substitute for testing, but it was reassuring to hear from someone who installs electrical equipment professionally. After living with the finished system, I understand where that enthusiasm comes from. The hardware feels extremely polished, and the individual components work together really well.
How the Battery and Generator Work Together
This is where the Smart Generator 5500 went from being a nice generator to one of my favorite parts of the system. The generator plugs into the E10 using a dedicated DC charging cable. Once connected, the E10 can monitor its battery level and automatically call on the generator when additional power is needed.
I can configure when I want the generator to start and when I want it to stop charging. That means I don’t necessarily need to keep a fuel-burning generator running continuously through an outage.
My batteries can quietly power the house. Solar panels replenish them when conditions allow. Then, if battery capacity falls too far, the generator can start automatically, feed as much as 4.5kW back into the batteries and shut itself down once the desired charge level is reached.
During testing, watching this work was a thing of beauty.
It’s also why I want to eventually connect the generator to my home’s natural-gas supply. In that configuration, the system could theoretically have access to three layers of backup: stored battery energy, rooftop solar and a generator connected to the home’s gas supply.
Is the Battery Worth Adding to the Generator?
If you’re considering spending roughly $2,000 specifically on this generator, I think the E10 compatibility is one of the biggest reasons to choose it over another portable model. But I wouldn’t suggest that everyone buying the generator should immediately go spend tens of thousands of dollars on batteries.
The E10 makes sense for someone who wants a much broader home-energy system, particularly if you already have or plan to install solar. It gives you silent battery backup, automatic switching and the ability to use generator power much more strategically.
The downside is obvious: cost. The generator itself feels reasonably priced to me for its feature set. The complete Solix ecosystem is a major home investment.
What an Electrician Says About Using a Generator for Home Backup
I also spoke with Matt Kovalik, a licensed electrician and founder of NailThePrice, who maintains 24 commercial Generac and Cummins generators as part of his day job.
Kovalik hasn’t personally worked with the Anker Smart Generator 5500, so I didn’t ask him to evaluate this particular model. Instead, I asked him about the broader considerations involved in using portable and tri-fuel generators for home backup.
The natural-gas option immediately stood out to him. “The most intriguing part to me is the natural gas hookup,” Kovalik says. Being able to connect a generator to an existing home gas supply means you aren’t solely dependent on stored gasoline or propane during a long outage. You need a pro to install it, though. “Just like an interlock kit on a panel, tapping into your home’s gas line is not a DIY job,” Kovalik says.
That’s something I’ll have to factor into my own setup when I add natural gas. A qualified professional will need to determine whether my existing gas supply is adequate and install the appropriate connection.
Kovalik also stressed that homeowners shouldn’t treat connecting a portable generator to household wiring as a DIY shortcut. “Back feeding power onto the grid can kill a lineman working your street and it’s a code violation,” he says.
If you’re planning to power household circuits from a portable generator rather than simply plugging equipment into its onboard outlets, Kovalik recommends having the proper interlock or transfer equipment professionally installed.
He also emphasizes sizing. A bigger generator isn’t automatically better. Homeowners who haven’t calculated their actual loads can end up paying for capacity they don’t need or buying a generator that can’t handle the loads they expect it to run.
That’s another reason I like my battery-based configuration. In my setup, the generator doesn’t have to independently handle every load or the startup surge of my central air conditioner. The E10 handles those household demands while the generator concentrates on charging up the battery.
Final Verdict
After a month of testing, the Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 has turned out to be one of those products where the mundane details have impressed me as much as the headline features.
Yes, tri-fuel operation is useful. And yes, reaching the advertised 4.5kW DC output during my testing matters. But what I appreciate most is how little effort the generator requires from me.
Setup took about 20 minutes. Gasoline and propane both worked without drama. The electric start has been flawless. The app is excellent. The controls make sense. Moving a 110-pound generator is surprisingly easy. The cables and connectors feel unusually well designed. And when I connect it to the E10, I can automate much of the process that would normally require someone to go outside and babysit a generator.
My biggest complaint is noise. For a relatively compact machine, it makes itself heard when it’s working hard. Fortunately, Eco mode helps, and I couldn’t hear it running on my driveway from inside the house.
I also think buyers should consider the $1,999 price in context. If you simply want maximum AC wattage per dollar, this wouldn’t be my first recommendation.
If you want a generator that can run gasoline, propane or natural gas while also serving as an intelligent range extender for an Anker battery system, that’s an entirely different story. That combination is what makes the Smart Generator 5500 special.
Where To Buy
PAULRANKIN FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN
We Tried It
Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500
A tri-fuel inverter generator that delivers up to 3,600W of AC power and 4,500W of DC power, with smart app controls and seamless integration with Anker’s home-energy systems.
At the time of writing, the Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 is available directly from Anker or Amazon. Anker also sells the generator bundled with various E10 configurations for buyers building a larger home-backup system.
FAQ
Can I run my house on a 5500 watt generator?
Probably not the entire home. A 5,500-watt generator can keep many of your home’s essentials running during an outage, but it usually won’t be able to power everything at once. The Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 provides 3,600 watts of continuous AC power, which is enough for necessities such as a refrigerator, lights, electronics and select small appliances, provided their combined demand stays within that limit.
Is Anker Solix a good generator?
Based on my testing, the Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 is a very capable generator, particularly if you already own or plan to purchase an Anker Solix backup battery system. I liked its gasoline, propane and natural gas compatibility, along with electric and app-based starting, remote monitoring and automatic operation when paired with the E10.
What can I plug into a 5500 watt generator?
A generator in this class can typically handle several household essentials at once, including refrigerators, freezers, lights, TVs, computers, fans, battery chargers and some microwaves or small air conditioners. You’ll need to add up the running watts of everything you plan to use and account for the higher starting wattage of appliances with motors or compressors.
The Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 has one standard NEMA 5-20R outlet and one 30-amp TT-30R outlet. Its AC output is rated at 3,600 continuous watts, so don’t assume the “5500” in the name means you can continuously plug in 5,500 watts worth of appliances.
How many hours will a 5500 watt generator run?
Generator runtime depends heavily on the load, fuel type and operating mode, so there isn’t one runtime that applies to every 5,500-watt generator. Anker says the Smart Generator 5500 can produce up to 17 kilowatt-hours of energy from its 10-liter (2.64-gallon) gasoline tank.
What should you not plug into a generator?
Don’t connect appliances that push the generator beyond its continuous or starting-watt limits. With the Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 specifically, you should also remember that its AC outlets supply 120-volt power, so it isn’t intended to directly run 240-volt appliances like many central air conditioners, electric dryers and electric water heaters.
You should also never plug a portable generator directly into a household wall outlet to power the home (which is called backfeeding and is very dangerous). Whole-home connections should use the appropriate transfer equipment and be professionally installed. Follow the manufacturer’s requirements for sensitive or critical equipment and always operate a fuel-burning generator outdoors, well away from doors, windows and other openings.
Why You Should Trust Us
I’ve spent several years testing and reviewing home improvement, power equipment and smart-home products for publications including Family Handyman and BobVila. For this review, I spent more than a month testing the Anker Solix Smart Generator 5500 at my Florida home, where backup power is an important consideration during hurricane season. I tested it with both gasoline and propane, ran it as a standalone generator and connected it directly to my existing Anker Solix E10 whole-home battery system. I evaluated setup, portability, controls, app connectivity, noise, power output and how well the generator integrates with solar and battery backup.
I also drew on the expertise of licensed electricians throughout the project. Arcenio Garcia of Firstline Electric & Energy and Oswin Fernandez of Future Electric Solutions professionally installed my Solix home-backup system and provided firsthand perspective on the equipment and installation. For additional generator-safety and home-backup guidance, I spoke with Matt Kovalik, a licensed electrician and founder of NailThePrice who maintains 24 commercial Generac and Cummins generators as part of his day job. His input helped inform our guidance on natural-gas connections, proper transfer equipment, generator sizing and the dangers of backfeeding a home.
Pretty much everyone has heard of a company called ACME. Whether it’s helping Wile E. Coyote’s attempts to capture an elusive Road Runner, or a much less sinister company in a small town, the name is familiar to many Americans. It appears on real U.S. businesses and has a history long before cartoons.
Learn what ACME means, why businesses liked (and continue to use) the name, and how cartoons popularized it for almost any company.
What Does ACME Mean?
Cartoon writers didn’t invent the word acme. The American Heritage Dictionary entry for “acme” traces it to the Greek word akmē, meaning the highest point of development or achievement.
That made it an appealing business name. Acme Tools’ company history says founder George Kuhlman chose it for his electric motor business because the word represented the highest level or peak.
ACME also isn’t an acronym for “A Company Making Everything.” That’s just one of those internet myths that caught on because it’s fun. In truth, Acme was already an English word derived from Greek long before the Road Runner cartoons.
Why ACME Worked Well in Phone Books
ACME also had one practical advantage: it appeared near the front of alphabetical business listings.
Before people searched online for a plumber, store, or repair shop, they often looked through printed directories. A business name starting with “AC” had a good chance of showing up near the top of its category.
That gave owners another reason to choose ACME. The name suggested quality and could also put the business in front of customers sooner.
How ACME Became a Cartoon Company
Warner Bros. eventually turned the familiar business name into Wile E. Coyote’s fictional supplier in the Road Runner cartoons.
The joke worked because “acme” meant something close to the highest or best, while many of the products Wile E. Coyote ordered failed to help him catch the Road Runner.
The cartoons gave ACME another identity as a company that could sell almost anything. The 2026 film Coyote vs. Acme continues that connection.
Why Companies Still Use the ACME Name
For some businesses, ACME simply became part of the company’s history. ACME Markets traces its name to the ACME Tea Company, while Acme Tools still uses the name chosen by its founder decades ago.
The alphabetical advantage matters far less today, but the name still carries its original meaning. Decades of cartoons have also made it instantly familiar to many Americans.
There are certainly many theories behind the history of this popular business name. And the next time you see it in use, you’ll have a better understanding of why it got that name.
Welcome to Domestic Disasters, where we take a look at some of your worst mess-ups and grossest finds. We take them to the experts to find out how big of a problem they are and how expensive they are to fix.
Last month, after filling the bathtub for his young daughter, Ethan discovered that the water wasn’t hot. When he opened the utility closet to investigate, he found a puddle covering most of the floor.
Being handy with household DIY tasks, he immediately knew what the problem was: the water heater tank had rusted out. The only fix was to install a new one.
What They Tried
Ethan’s first priority was to close the supply line valve to prevent the tank from refilling. Then, before heading to the home improvement store, he connected a hose to the spigot at the bottom of the tank to drain the remaining water.
He figured it would be empty by the time he got home, but when he returned, water was still draining out. That meant the supply line valve wasn’t closing, so the only solution was to shut off the main water to the house.
The next morning, Ethan successfully installed the new heater, then enlisted the help of his father-in-law to haul the old one up the stairs. Because it weighed more than 120 pounds, that ended up being the most challenging part of the ordeal, he says. It was also messy, with water leaking out along the way, despite their efforts to stem it with a plastic bag.
“If there’s a silver lining here, it’s that we were home when this happened,” he says.
Ethan is a confident DIYer, but did he actually approach the problem the right way? And could he have taken steps to prevent it?
A Pro Weighs In On What Went Wrong
Both gas and propane water heaters typically last 10 to 15 years before succumbing to corrosion. Since Ethan’s tank was 21 years old, the experts we talked to were not surprised that it had failed. Neither was Ethan. Also, the problem was likely compounded by geography. Ethan lives in Minnesota, and cold climates cause water heaters to work harder.
As for the faulty valve, it is usually caused by rotted gaskets or buildup in the line that prevents it from sealing. “It’s actually pretty common on water heaters that are older than ten years,” says plumber Travis Hargrave.
Did the Homeowners Get it Right?
Mostly. After realizing the supply line valve was faulty, he was correct in shutting of the main water to the house. “That’s your only move, and hesitating even 10 minutes can mean hundreds of gallons on the floor,” says plumber Brendan Tonks.
But Ethan also got lucky in that respect, says plumber Kolby Barnes. Ethan’s home is a 1940s bungalow, and many older homes like his use gate valves (rather than ball valves) for the main water shutoff. Similarly to supply line valves, they are vulnerable to buildup that prevents them from closing.
What Ethan didn’t get right, however, was neglecting to replace the aging water heater before it failed. It also would have been wise to install a smart device that can monitor for leaks and shut off the water in an emergency, says Barnes.
“The smart device isn’t necessarily a mistake on his part, since such devices are relatively new, but now that your readers know about them, it would be a mistake not to consider installing one to prevent both catastrophic leaks and slow, hidden ones,” says Barnes.
What Would a Pro Have Done Differently?
All of the pros we talked to pointed out one important step that Ethan missed — shutting off the gas or electricity to the water heater before touching anything, in order to prevent a safety hazard.
The Panic Meter
We rank Domestic Disasters on a four-point scale.
Do It Yourself: The easiest issues to fix. You can handle it all on your own.
Phone a Friend: This issue might require a little outside assistance.
Call a Pro: This situation warrants professional assistance.
SOS: Problems that are so dangerous, you’re directly at risk of injury or worse.
Whether to DIY a water heater replacement or call in a pro depends on your confidence level. “I don’t recommend a DIY fix because water heaters involve gas and electrical components that can be dangerous if not handled correctly,” says Tonks.
However, Ethan says it is a relatively easy task for DIYers, especially if they use shark bite connections. “As long as you have a helper who can help lug the old one out and the new one in, it should be a two or two-and-a-half-hour job,” he says. “And half of that is cleaning up.”
The Cost Differential
It is possible to extend the life of a water heater by replacing the internal anode rod, which helps prevent corrosion, every few years. As a DIY fix, this usually runs between $20 to $50, or $150 to $600 if you call a pro. Expect similar costs for replacing the valve.
If you have to replace the whole water heater, a DIY fix will run around $700, vs. $1,500 to $3,500 for a pro.
Keep in mind, too, that if you don’t catch and fix a leak promptly, the resulting flood damage could run into the thousands to tens of thousands of dollars for water damage and mold remediation.
How to Fix Water Heater Problems the Right Way
Before you enter the room, turn off the power or gas to the water heater, depending on its style. That will prevent electrocution and fire danger. In extreme cases, water heaters can also explode if the tank is empty but still heating up.
Then:
Turn off your home’s main water supply.
Drain the tank.
For valve issues, cut out the old one and install a new one. Leave it closed for now, and do not over-tighten, says Hargrave.
Replace the water heater.
If your heater is gas, test the gas line with soapy water to make sure it’s not leaking.
Turn the water back on to the home.
Confirm there are no leaks in the valve or other pipes.
Turn on the new valve at the water heater.
Fill the new tank with water. Use a pop-off emergency valve to release the air while filling, says Hargrave. “When water flows through, the tank is full and you can turn it back off.”
Run hot and cold faucets downstairs to remove air pockets and confirm the heater is completely full.
Check the water heater valve for leaks again.
Turn the gas or electricity back on. If you have a gas heater, pay special attention to the manufacturer’s safety instructions, which are usually posted on the heater.
How to Prevent Water Heater Problems
Open and close the supply line valve every six months to prevent buildup.
Replace the anode rod every three to five years.
Know where your main home water shutoff valve is located, and inspect the seals yearly.
If your main shutoff uses a gate valve, consider replacing it with a ball valve.
Replace your water heater every 10 to 15 years, especially if you have hard water or live in a cold climate.
Install a smart device that detects leaks and shuts off the water supply. Barnes recommends the Moen Flo unit. Adding one might also qualify you for a homeowner’s insurance discount.
If your home is older and doesn’t have a built-in water heater drain, set up a floor drain pan.
Ethan also warns about a mistake he nearly made: “A lot of the newer, more energy-efficient gas models also need an outlet, but I didn’t have that available in my space,” he says.
Finally, when it’s time to replace your water heater, if you’re considering switching from gas to electric, or to a tankless or heat-pump model, plan for that shift well before your old one fails, as you will likely have to address space, venting or electrical system upgrades.
What the Homeowner Learned
“It’s definitely a DIY job,” says Ethan. “You don’t need many tools, and it’s very approachable. But if there’s one takeaway, it’s to get a helper, not only for your back, but because you’re gonna put water on the floor, so you wanna move the old one out quickly.”
As for whether Ethan will preemptively replace this water heater in 10 or 15 years, he says, “probably not. I’m one of those people who doesn’t fix it until it’s broken. I just hope it doesn’t happen while I’m in Disney World or something like that.”
About the Experts
Kolby Barnes is a second-generation plumber, service technician and plumbing trainer manager at Service Force Plumbing in Maryland.
Travis Hargrave has more than 30 years of plumbing experience and runs Hargrave’s Plumbing in Louisiana.
Brendan Tonks is a licensed plumber and gasfitter, and director of Steve Bennett Plumbing in Australia.
Do you have a Domestic Disaster experience you’d like featured on Family Handyman? Email us your experience at fhmfranchises@tmbi.com.
Winter’s coming, and one of the most important winterization tasks you can do is to make sure your home has enough insulation. Even if it does, says Andre Kazimierski of HomeHero Roofing, you won’t stay warm if your house leaks air. “Sealing gaps goes a very long way with improving overall insulation,” he says, but sealing isn’t enough. If you want to stay warm, you have to reduce heat transfer through wood, metal and other materials from which your house is constructed, and that takes insulation.
Robust insulation doesn’t just keep your house warmer. It protects your water system from freezing and prevents your HVAC system from overworking and costing you money. It’s common for energy bills to go up in the winter — ours certainly do — but who needs the extra expense of an unreasonable spike, especially at a time when prices are rising across the board? You can prevent that by putting some effort into insulating all the parts of your house. Here’s how.
Attic and Roof Spaces
Attic and roof spaces should be a number-one priority, says Kazimierski. As your roof ages, it develops gaps that allow cold air into the attic, which can then leak into the home. He recommends hiring a roofer to do an inspection and seal the gaps as part of your winterization program, especially if the roof is old and weathered. He also recommends adding rigid foam or spray insulation to the underside of the roof deck.
Because most attics are vented, a certain amount of air circulation is normal, so it’s important to thermally separate it from the rest of the house by insulating the floor, either with fiberglass batt or blown-in insulation. If it’s already there, but you feel drafts through the ceiling, look for gaps and fill them in, or add an extra layer.
Exterior Walls
Because wood is a poor heat conductor, wood siding provides some insulation value, but not enough to keep you warm without insulation. Poorly insulated brick and concrete, says contractor Bob Cardwell of Cardwell HVAC, act like heat sinks, absorbing heat from inside and radiating it outdoors. What insulation to use? “Blown-in insulation is a good choice if the walls are already finished and you don’t want to open them up,” he says. “Spray foam is good for sealing gaps and air leaks in walls.”
Windows and Doors
“One of the best winterization tasks you can do before winter is to replace the rubber seals on windows and exterior doors,” says Cardwell. “Over time, those rubber seals shrink, get brittle, and that allows the heat to escape and the cold air to sneak inside.” You don’t have to do it every year, but you should definitely check in the fall to see if it’s necessary.
While you’re at it, check the weatherstripping around doors and windows, and replace it if necessary. Cardwell recommends installing a foam sweep under on the bottom of every exterior door as insurance against drafts.
Pipes and Plumbing
Winterization doesn’t mean insulating all your water pipes, but it’s important to protect the ones near exterior walls and running through unheated spaces, like the attic, basement or crawl space, to prevent them from freezing. Also, it’s a good idea to insulate hot water pipes to prevent heat loss and save energy.
“Use foam pipe sleeves if the pipes are exposed but the area stays somewhat protected, and use electric heat cables if the pipes are in places that regularly drop below 32-degrees,” advises Cardwell.
Basement and Crawl Space
Almost every home has air leaks around the rim joist, sill plate, and foundation penetrations for pipes and wires. Cardwell recommends filling gaps around the rim joist with closed-cell foam insulation, which provides better insulation than open-cell foam in the damp environment of a basement. Use expanding foam around pipes and wires and caulk for smaller foundation gaps and cracks.
“Pay special attention to the air leaks around the rim joist, because it runs around the entire perimeter of the house and is a common path for cold outdoor air to enter,” he advises.
Garage Walls and Ceilings
A garage generally doesn’t need to be fully insulated, but if it shares a wall with the house, that wall needs insulation. Cardwell recommends moisture-resistant insulation, like closed-cell spray foam or rigid foam board, because garages are typically damp in the winter.
If your garage has finished walls and you use it for purposes other than parking a car, treat it like the rest of your house. Seal gaps and insulate the walls and ceiling.
HVAC Ductwork
Leaks at joints and seams in ductwork become more likely as the ductwork ages, so it’s important to stay on top of them. “You can check if your ductwork is leaking by feeling for escaping air while the system is running,” says Cardwell. Leaks are most common from exposed ducts in the attic, crawl space and basement, and he recommends sealing those with mastic and UL-listed foil tape. “Ordinary duct tape dries out and doesn’t work well on HVAC ducts.”
Electrical Outlets and Other Small Air Leaks
A surprising amount of cold air passes through small gaps around electrical outlets and where pipes or wires enter home through walls. Cardwell recommends using foam outlet gaskets for outlets and caulk or spray foam for small gaps around pipes and wires.
FAQ
What should you insulate before winter?
All the experts I interviewed agreed with roofer Cody Purtle of Silver Ridge Roofing: “An obvious point that many overlook is that warm air rises. Due to inadequate attic insulation, a significant amount of heat can escape through the roof. That is precisely why I would start with the attic and the roof.”
Is fall a good time to add attic insulation?
Actually, the best time to insulate the attic is in the spring, according to Cardell. That prevents summer heat generated in the attic — which is the hottest part of the house — from reaching the living area. But, he says, if your main concern is keeping your house warm in the winter, early fall is a good time to insulate, because this is when you can often buy insulation materials cheaper and the attic is not too hot to work in.”
How can you tell where your home needs more insulation?
There are several indications:
You keep your thermostat at a normal setting, but your energy bills are higher than expected.
Some rooms are noticeably colder than others.
You feel drafts, which means your home has leaks that need patching and more insulation.
You notice condensation and black spots (mold) on your walls or ceilings, which almost always points to poor insulation.
It’s easiest to spot signs of poor insulation in summer, says Cardwell. “If your upstairs is much hotter than the downstairs, your attic is likely transferring heat into the living space.”
What areas of a home lose the most heat?
Rooms with exterior walls, those that face north and those next to unheated spaces typically need the most insulation, says Cardwell. North-facing rooms in particular get less sun exposure and are often exposed to cold winds. Moreover, rooms with a wall or floor that adjoins a garage, porch, basement or crawl space tend to lose heat to these spaces and need more winterization.
About the Experts
Andre Kazimierski is the Co-Owner and President of HomeHero Roofing, a fast-growing residential roofing company based in Downers Grove, IL.
Bob Cardwell is the owner of Cardwell HVAC and a seasoned heating, cooling, and plumbing expert. He has over a decade of hands-on experience serving South Jersey homeowners and businesses.
Cody Purtle is the owner of Silver Ridge Roofing, which is based in Houston, TX.
Crumbs, wrappers and sticky spills can quickly make a vehicle feel dirty. They also attract pests and create lingering odors.
Wipe Up Spills Quickly
If a no-food rule isn’t realistic for your family, clean up messes as soon as they happen. Fresh spills wipe up easily, but dried soda, coffee and sauces become sticky and much harder to remove.
Keep Cleaning Supplies Handy
Store a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick touch-ups. Wipe the dash, console and door handles once a week to prevent dust and grime from building up.
Manage Trash
Keep a small trash bag or bin in the vehicle and empty it regularly. A good reminder: Toss trash whenever you stop for gas. 10 Good Habits for a Cleaner Car How you treat your car between deep cleans can make all the difference in controlling mess, odors and everyday clutter
Vacuum Weekly
If you use your car daily, vacuum the seats, floor mats and carpeting at least once a week. Remove any floor mats before vacuuming— debris tends to collect around the edges of the mats and get ground into the fibrous floor carpeting.
Use All-Weather Mats
If you live in an area with dirt roads or frequent rain or snow, install all-weather floor mats. They trap sand, mud and water and can be easily hosed off.
Avoid Clutter
Stow pens, receipts and other small items in the glove box or designated compartments, and keep the passenger seat clear. Likewise, avoid turning your trunk into a storage closet—carry only the essentials so it stays functional.
Watch What Passengers
Bring In Before passengers climb in, check for muddy shoes, open containers or messy bags. A simple rule helps: If something comes in with a passenger, it leaves with them.
Don’t Smoke in the Car
Smoking leaves behind odors, ash and residue that are difficult to remove and can reduce a vehicle’s resale value. Professional detailers can help restore a fresh smell, but prevention is far easier.
Make Cleaning Part of Your Routine
A few minutes of maintenance each week prevents dirt buildup and makes deep cleanings faster. Wash the exterior every two to three weeks and give the interior a quick weekly clean to keep things looking their best.
