Is Your Toyota One of the 162,000 Cars Recalled for a Faulty Display?

Vehicle safety features have come a long way, even in just the past 30 years. My first vehicle was from the early 1990s, and its safety features were pretty limited. There wasn’t much beyond seat belts and airbags. Nowadays, however, many more safety features come standard. Multimedia displays that can show you the view from your rearview camera are a big one, and have been mandated in vehicles for several years now. While they’re a nice perk, the fact that they’re mandatory means that when they malfunction, it can trigger a recall. In Toyota’s case, that’s exactly what their faulty displays have done.

Why Is Toyota Recalling So Many Vehicles?

According to the Toyota press release, this voluntary recall concerns faulty multimedia displays. The brief explains that “under certain circumstances, the multimedia display may become stuck on a camera view or display a black image in the subject vehicles.” When this happens, “the rearview image may not be displayed while the vehicle is being reversed.”

In addition to being an annoyance, this problem means that the vehicles in question “may not meet a federal safety standard.” Additionally, the brief warns that this can result in “an increased risk of a crash with a person behind the vehicle.”

Which Toyota Vehicles Have Faulty Displays?

At least 162,000 Toyota vehicles in the U.S. have faulty displays, including the:

• 2024 Toyota Tundra
• 2025 Toyota Tundra
• 2024 Toyota Tundra Hybrid
• 2025 Toyota Tundra Hybrid

If you own one of the Toyota vehicles listed above, keep an eye out for anything coming from the company. They’ve said that they plan to notify customers about the problem by late March 2026.

If you want to catch updates sooner, you can check the Toyota recall page. Alternatively, you can enter your vehicle Identification Number (VIN) or license plate number on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) site.

How Will Toyota Fix This Problem?

Toyota says that in order to rectify the situation, “dealers will update the Parking Assist ECU software, free of charge.” Schedule this update as soon as it’s available to you; safety features exist for a reason and it’s unwise to leave them inoperable for an indefinite amount of time.

If you have further questions or want more information, you can reach Toyota customer support by calling the Toyota Brand Engagement Center at 1-800-331-4331.

Source

Toyota Recalls Certain Toyota Tundra and Tundra Hybrid Vehicles, Toyota Newsroom, 2026.

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Why You Should Think Twice Before Scanning That QR Code

QR codes are everywhere now. They track our packages, enable contactless payments and even eliminate printed restaurant menus. And their popularity is only growing. A recent study by Uniqode revealed that 59% of Americans scan QR codes daily.

But, according to cybersecurity company NordVPN, more than 20 million people have been tricked by fake QR codes, which lure them to malicious websites. “Scammers rely on your curiosity to fool you,” says digital security expert Marijus Briedis. So, “treat QR codes like you would links in emails from people you don’t know.”

Here’s how to spot QR code scams to keep yourself safe from them.

What Is a QR Code?

QR codes are a type of barcode designed to provide information to consumers. They look like black-and-white squares, and when you scan one with your smartphone camera, it typically takes you to a website.

“We really saw the rise of this with restaurant menus during the pandemic,” says cybersecurity expert John Wilson. “They also provide a great way to simply convey information, such as payment for parking or an email address for a business.”

Why are they so popular?

QR codes are quick and easy to use. For customers, that often means accessing information without the hassle of typing in a website URL. Businesses also like them because they encourage purchases and collect first-party data.

“With a quick scan, you get the information you need,” says Briedis. “However, scammers have noticed this and are now taking advantage of how comfortable we’ve become with scanning codes without much thought.”

What Is QR Code Brushing?

QR code brushing is a scam in which you receive a package, flyer or other piece of mail you didn’t order, which contains a QR code directing you to scan it — often under the guise of learning who sent it or claiming a prize. Once you scan it, it leads you to fake websites, aka phishing sites, which can steal your personal information and install malware on your phone.

“[It’s] not to steal money right away, but to confirm that a person or address is real, or to quietly collect basic data or engagement behind the scenes,” says QR code expert Sharat Potharaju.

Similarly, “quishing” scams, short for QR code phishing, send you to fake websites that look legitimate, like banks or delivery services, and trick you into entering your personal information. Potharaju warns this is an even bigger risk to consumers than QR code brushing.

Signs a QR Code Is a Scam

QR code warning signs include codes that:

• Are delivered with urgent messages to scan them immediately,
• Are affixed in odd places, such at the side of a parking meter,
• Look like they’ve been stuck over another code sticker,
• Are texted to you out of context or from an unknown source, or
• Are left on your doorstep in the form of a card or flyer.

How to Protect Yourself From QR Code Scams

When you scan a QR code using your phone’s camera, it usually shows you a preview of the website. Take a moment to check the URL, make sure it matches your intended destination and that the website looks legitimate. Also:

• Use caution with sites that lead directly to a login or payment page, or have numerous typos,
• Keep your phone’s software up to date,
• Use security tools, such as a VPN, to help spot and protect you from dangerous websites,
• Report suspicious packages to your local consumer protection agency,
• Use extra caution with QR bill payments, to make sure you haven’t been redirected, and
• Share scam potentials with family and friends, especially those not comfortable with technology.

If you run a business, Wilson also suggests using dynamic QR codes that expire, educating customers about safe QR code practices and considering moving toward NFC technology, direct URLs and app-based interactions.

“Always stay vigilant,” says tech expert Jason Wingate. “If you’re unsure if the QR code is legit, or where it came from, don’t use it and instead type in the URL yourself.”

About the Experts

• Marijus Briedis is a globally recognized digital security and privacy expert, and CTO of NordVPN cybersecurity solutions.
• John Wilson has been combatting email-based fraud and phishing since 2006, and is a senior fellow of threat research at the global cybersecurity company Fortra.
• Sharat Potharaju is co-founder and CEO of the QR code platform Uniqode.
• Jason Wingate, is CEO of Emerald Ocean Ltd., a holding and product development company with a 15-year history in tech.

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A Step-By-Step Guide to Building a Tile Coffee Table With Wood Legs

Calculate the table top dimensions

To get started, determine the size of your tabletop understructure by laying out your tiles with 1/4-in. tile spacers to measure this accurately. Your calculations will work from the tile layer in, so the size of your tile layout determines the size of the backer board layer, which in turn determines the size of the wood frame to which the backer board is adhered.

Keep in mind that if you are using handmade tiles, not all your tiles will be exactly the same size, shape, etc. If your goal is to achieve perfect grout lines and uniform tile, I suggest continuing to follow these steps but using tile from a home center.

Cut the backer board

Using a large T-square and a pencil, draw the measurements for the backer board top (A), the long side (B), and the short side (C). Use an angle grinder with a masonry blade to cut the pieces to size.

Cut and assemble the table top framing

The backer board top (A) is 1/2-in. wider and longer than the wood frame it is attached to. This is to ensure the backer board sides (B and C) tuck in under the top and leave a clean edge for the tile to attach to.

Cut the short (E) and long (D) framing components out of the 2x4s. Cut them to their length first at the miter saw, then rip them to 2-1/2 inches wide at the table saw. 2-1/2-inch-wide framing components accommodate the width of the side tiles while still leaving room for mastic and grout to create a clean edge. Screw the short (E) and long (D) frame components together using 2-1/2-in. screws.

Attach the backer board to the frame

Secure the top (A) and sides (B and C) of the backer board to the table top framing components (D and E). Start with the backerboard sides (B and C). Remember, there is a 1/4-in. overhang on each side of the top (A) to allow the side pieces (B and C) to finish flush to the outside edge.  Space the backer board screws six to nine inches apart. To prevent splintering, do not install screws within 3/4-inch of the edges of the backer board.

Attach tiles to the tabletop

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to evenly spread the mastic on the backer board. Be sure to hold the trowel at a consistent, steep angle (around 45 degrees) as you pull it across the surface to capture the notch’s peak.

Transfer your tile layout to the mastic-covered table top. Start on the top (A), using a long straight edge and 1/4-in. spacers to keep your layout as evenly spaced as possible. To ensure full contact between the mastic and the back of the tile, you want the tiles to settle into the mastic when you lay them. If your handmade tiles have a curve that prevents them from making full contact with the mastic, apply more mastic to the back of the tile to ensure complete support.  This is referred to as “back buttering” the tile.  The goal is to avoid voids between the tile, mastic and backer board.  Voids increase the likelihood that the tile will crack under stress or excess weight.

When the top is complete, stop and let it sit overnight and set up. If you have to back butter multiple tiles, give it two days to ensure the mastic has hardened. Move on to the sides (B and C) only after the top tiles are secure in case you need to use tape to hold the edge tiles in place while their mastic dries.

Once all the tiles are attached, allow the mastic to dry and harden for another 24 hours before proceeding to the grout stage. During this time, move on to making the legs.

Cut the wood for legs

Cut the wood for your table legs from the cut list above using the miter and table saw. Because all the leg components are cut from the same 1-3/4-in.-square stock, label them as you go to keep each upright (F), outrigger (G), crossbrace (H), and stretcher (J) in order for assembly.

Assemble the legs with dowels

The legs are assembled as in Fig. B above with doweled butt joints. To ensure the dowelled joints line up correctly, you will use dowel centers. This process is time-consuming and requires some prototyping and practice if you haven’t built with dowel joinery before.

To create a joint using dowel centers:

1. Drill two 1/4-in. holes, a little deeper than half the length of your dowels, on one of the two pieces you will be joining. If you are not confident in drilling these holes straight, drill them on the drill press.
2. Place the dowel centers in the drilled 1/4-in. holes.
3. Bring the second piece of wood you are joining into position so the sides are aligned and flush.
4. Tap the end of the second piece of wood with a rubber mallet, forcing the point of the dowel center to leave a divot, aligning the 1/4-in. holes on the second piece of wood.
5. Use the divots left by the dowel centers as center points to drill corresponding 1/4-in. holes, a little deeper than half the length of your fluted dowels, in the second piece of wood.
6. Dry-fit the joint together without glue to ensure it is square and that the sides of the pieces are flush.
7. If the pieces dry-fit together as you like, glue and clamp the joint with clamping squares to ensure it stays square while the wood glue cures.

Work joint by joint until you have two three-dimensional “L” legs made of the uprights (F), outriggers (G) and crossbraces (H). Leave the legs separate, not attaching the stretchers (J) until attaching the legs to the underside of the table.

Sand and seal the legs

Once the glue has fully dried on all the joints of the legs, sand the assembled legs and loose stretchers (J) smooth using a palm sander. Step through the grits, starting at 120-grit and finishing at 220-grit. Vacuum off the legs to remove any sanding dust once finished.

Use a paintbrush to apply a generous coat of tung oil to the sanded leg components. Allow the tung oil to absorb into the wood for a few minutes, then wipe away any excess with a shop rag.  Apply two to three coats and allow to dry in between. Tung oil will develop a sheen as the coats build up. To keep a matte or stain sheen, be sure to wipe back each coat with a painter’s rag.

Rout a reveal

Use a wood router equipped with a 1/2-in. straight-cut router bit or a router table to rout a 1/2-in.-wide x 1/2-in.-deep rabbet along each outside edge of the outriggers (G) and the top of the uprights (F) they are doweled to. Clamp a scrap piece of wood to serve as a guide for the router. You may also choose to use a router table to create the rabbets.

This rabbet will compensate for any curves or imperfections along the bottom edges of your side tiles, making the attached legs appear to float below the tile top.

Attach the legs

To connect the legs to the tabletop:

1. Lay the tiled top upside down on a furniture pad or blanket to protect the tiles while securing the legs.
2. Start at one end. Secure one “L” of the legs to the framing, holding it in 1/4-in. from the edge of the outside short framing (E) piece. Pre-drill countersunk holes through the leg outriggers (G) and crossbraces (H) into the framing components (D and E) of the table top. Use three-inch screws to secure it.
3. Bring together both sets of legs with the stretchers (J) at the top and bottom of the leg assembly.  Connect the stretchers (J) centered on the crossbraces (H) at the top and bottom with dowels and wood glue.
4. With the stretcher (J) dowel joints still wet, use clamps to hold together the leg assembly as you attach the second “L” of the legs to the framing at the other end of the tile table top, using three-inch screws. Have a damp rag handy to wipe away any glue drips and squeeze out.  This can be a stressful part of the build.  Allow yourself the time and don’t rush – wood glue does not dry instantly.
5. Allow the wood glue to fully dry.

Once legs have been secured and fully dried, get help to flip the table over – it will be heavy!!!

Apply grout to the tabletop

Remove all the 1/4-in. spacers from between the tiles. Mix the grout in small batches to prevent it from hardening before you can spread it. Using a rubber tile float, work the grout into the joints, forcing it all the way to the bottom of each crevice.

Allow the grout to set for a few minutes, then wipe away excess from the tile surfaces with a damp sponge, rinsing frequently. Work in stages—let the grout firm up between passes so you don’t pull it out of the joints. Grout is very forgiving, so take your time.

Clean the tile haze

Once you have wiped away the excess grout, you will notice a buildup of grout powder drying on the tiles’ surfaces. Allow it to dry and become chalky. Then, with a clean, dry painter’s rag, rub away the haze.  You will have to do this several times until the haze fully disappears.  For this to work well, the rag must be clean at the start of each wipe down.  If haze is not fully cleaned off within 24 hours, it will cure and become permanent.  This step is crucial to make the tiles project look crisp and clean. I usually do a bunch of passes with a clean rag, then do one final pass the next day to ensure all the haze is cleaned off.

Apply grout sealer

Once the grout has fully cured, use a grout sealer to prevent dirt and stains from building up on the grout between the tiles. Use a small artist paintbrush or applicator to apply the grout sealer directly to the grout, being careful not to let it build up and dry on the tiles. Grout sealer will yellow over time and become noticeable on the edges of the tiles. It is good practice to reseal grout once every 12  to 18 months.

FAQ

Do I have to use mastic to set my tiles in place?

You will find a choice between thinset and mastic.  It really depends on how much wear and tear the tiles will see. Thinset is most often used for tile jobs such as floors, wet areas, or large tiles.  Mastic is best for small ceramic/porcelain wall tiles in dry/damp areas, such as backsplashes or tabletops.

Should a coffee table be taller or shorter than a couch?

For ease of reaching and placing things on a coffee table, it is best for the coffee table height to be about the same height as the seat on your couch, plus or minus an inch or two.

Can you attach tile directly to wood?

When attaching tile directly to wood, you must use a flexible adhesive.  Wood expands and contracts at a different rate than tile, which could, over time, create cracks and weakness in your tile work.  This is often circumvented by placing cement backer board between the tiles and wood.

What is the 2/3 rule for coffee tables?

When calculating how big your coffee table should be relative to your couch, the 2/3 rule applies. The rule says a coffee table’s length should be about two-thirds the length of the sofa.  This will make the coffee table feel proportionally appropriate to the couch and won’t block movement or overwhelm the space.

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Amazon Sells Cars Now!?! Here’s the Fine Print Before You Click “Buy Now”

With online car sales exploding, it was only a matter of time before retail giant Amazon got into the car-selling business. Amazon’s goal is to streamline the car‑buying process through full transparency, then have you click their well-known “Buy Now” button to buy your new car. While you can buy cars on Amazon Autos, Amazon isn’t replacing dealerships—it’s an innovative digital storefront that gets you started on the car-buying process.

It sounds easy enough— especially if you’ve sat in a dealership showroom for hours hammering out the best deal. But delivery, bottom-line cost, and dealer involvement aren’t as simple as they look, and the fine print still matters. Read along as car sales experts and professionals walk through the steps and explain the pros and cons of buying a car on Amazon Autos.

How Buying a Car on Amazon Works

Using Amazon’s familiar shopping interface, you can shop for new, used, and certified pre-owned cars 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. When I went to the site, virtually all the dealers within 75 miles of my zip code (just north of Philadelphia, PA) were Hyundai, with Hyundai as the only new-car make listed. Amazon Auto’s site shows the “no-haggle” price, financing details, the vehicle identification number (VIN), plus all the vehicle’s features and specifications.

This allows you to “finalize the purchase before ever stepping into a dealership,” said Jack Carlson, Co-Founder of Carvia, a U.S. automotive data and consumer insights platform. “Participating dealers list their cars on Amazon Autos, and all purchase steps happen on the website. You pick up the vehicle at the dealership when it’s ready.”

Pros of Buying a Car on Amazon

Amazon Autos simplifies the car-buying problems that make people dislike dealerships and the car-buying process. “There’s no haggling over cost with the dealership at delivery, and a seven-day return keeps things stress-free,” said Ryan Salata, Marketing Director of Specialty Auto Parts USA, Inc. If you like, “You can even order your vehicle exactly the way you want,” added Salata. Other pros include:

• The convenience of anytime online browsing makes comparisons between vehicles easier.
• No haggling: detailed pricing that breaks down the Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP), dealer fees and charges, manufacturer- and dealer-added options, and manufacturer’s warranty coverage.
• Only Amazon Auto’s approved dealers are permitted to list and sell cars. All dealership information is provided, adding an additional level of trust.
• Amazon’s familiar, easy-to-navigate interface includes filters, categories, and a layout that make it feel like a normal Amazon shopping experience.
• You can estimate payments and secure financing using Amazon Auto’s built-in financing options.

Cons of Buying a Car on Amazon

• Limited manufacturer’s selection (Hyundai). The planned expansion will continue, but it is not widespread at the moment.
• Transparent pricing means fixed pricing and no negotiating. While nice for someone who isn’t into haggling, there are those who enjoy protracted back-and-forth wrangling with their salesperson.
• Transparent pricing does not mean you are getting the best price.
• Pricing does not include any state or local taxes.
• It is necessary to visit the dealership to inspect and test-drive the vehicle, and to finalize all required paperwork.
• Be prepared for the salesperson to “upsell” dealer-added options and extended mechanical, tire/wheel and paint protection warranties.
• Nationwide availability for all vehicle types at Amazon Autos varies by location.
• Amazon Autos does not offer auto insurance.

Ben Shoolin, an award-winning new, used and leasing vehicle salesperson, said, “Before buying any car online, always check the deposit refund policy, vehicle return policy, fees, financing costs, dealer reputation, warranty, trade‑in estimate, delivery plan, paperwork, and insurance.” If the deal sounds too good to be true, then it probably is.

Other Places to Buy Cars Online

Buying cars online is for educated buyers who are wary of old-school dealer tactics, tricks and methods. There are several reputable online platforms (companies) selling new and used cars, including (alphabetically):

• AutoTrader has an extensive list of new and used cars from dealerships as well as private sellers
• CarMax has a large inventory of quality used cars, offering no-haggle pricing and 24-hour test drives.
• Cars.com, TrueCar, and CarGurus are online automotive marketplaces that help shoppers find, compare, and evaluate used, new, and certified pre-owned vehicles from dealerships and private sellers.
• Carvana offers only buying online but has a seven-day return policy as well as pickup and delivery.
• DriveTime also has a large inventory of used cars and is geared toward buyers with a less-than-perfect credit history.
• Edmunds offers expert reviews and has a nationwide used car inventory database.

FAQ

Can I trade in my current vehicle if I buy a car online?

Amazon Autos willingly supports trade‑ins. They will supply an offer through a third‑party valuator, which can be applied toward your purchase or taken as cash. Beware, you will need to supply the VIN, mileage, service history and other information. Any trustworthy valuator (for example, Kelley Blue Book, Edmunds, or NADA Guides—National Automobile Dealers Association) will run your car through CARFAX or other databases to determine a trade-in estimate. While the estimate gives a solid starting point, “the amount can be lower, or higher, when the valuator actually sees your trade-in,” said Shoolin.

Who is online car buying best for?

Buying a car sight unseen isn’t for the faint of heart. “Online car buying works best for buyers who know what they want, value transparency in pricing, and would rather avoid dealership pressure,” said Carlson. It’s especially useful for those who are comfortable making large purchases, or who want to compare inventories without spending hours or days visiting multiple dealerships or used car lots.

What happens if I change my mind?

“Nothing is final,” said Shoolin. If you get to the dealership and decide the car, or deal, for whatever reason, isn’t right for you, you can walk away. Amazon Autos doesn’t force the sale or lock you into purchasing the car even if you finance through Amazon Autos. In other words, you’re not obligated to buy any car until the paperwork is signed.

Experts

• Jack Carlson is Co-Founder of Carvia, a U.S. automotive data and consumer insights platform.
• Ryan Salata is the Marketing Director of Specialty Auto Parts USA, Inc., a manufacturer of high-performance automotive aftermarket components for DIY mechanics, professional builders, and grassroots racers.
• Ben Shoolin has been a professional new vehicle General Motors salesperson for over 45 years and is a Buick/GMC Mark of Excellence Sales and Leasing Specialist at O’Neil GMC in Warminster, PA., a multiyear award-winning, General Motors Customer Satisfaction dealership.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

References

• Amazon Autos: FAQs “Buy or lease your next great car right here” (Jan 14, 2026)
• Investopedia: “Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP): Definition and How Is Determined” (July 29, 2025)
• Kelly Blue Book: “How to Buy a Car Online” (Oct 11, 2023)
• U.S. News and World Report: “How to Buy a Car Online” (Nov 14, 2024)
• Chad Watwood: Attorney at LawBike Motorcycle Injury Lawyers
• Melanie Musson, Insurance & Finance Expert at Clearsurance.com
• Vikas Mehta, COO ACV Auctions

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The One Spot You Forgot to Shovel—And Why It Could Be Deadly

Everybody knows that when snow starts falling, it’s time to bust out the shovels and get ready to keep your driveway clear. But there’s another spot outside your house that’s just as essential to keep snow off of, especially when snow really starts to pile up.

You might not even realize it, but your furnace vents are an essential part of your home’s ecosystem. The intake and outtake vents on the side of your home literally allow it to breathe. If they get clogged, it can quickly lead to all kinds of issues.

Typically, your furnace vents sit high enough above the ground that they’re unaffected by an average snowfall. But during a really big storm, when snow drifts into large banks and piles up over multiple feet, your vents suddenly find themselves in a much more vulnerable position.

Check out this video from TikToker The Copper Elm, where she showcases the importance of clearing out snow around your furnace vents during a big storm:

@thecopperelmStay warm and stay inside as much as possible, but be sure to check your vents. Carbon monoxide and natural gas buildup are not something to mess around with. 💙♬ original sound – The Copper Elm

The video highlights how even a little drift can quickly pile up snow on your home’s walls and clog your vents. If this happens, your furnace may shut down, and your home will get a lot chillier. Those vents also provide a way for carbon monoxide to escape from your home. So if they’re covered, that CO has nowhere to go but back into the house.  This can lead to even bigger problems and some severe health risks, like carbon monoxide poisoning.

So what’s the solution? Next time you’re hit by a big snowstorm, grab a small hand shovel. After you’re done shoveling your driveway, take that small shovel and go dig out the area around your furnace vents. This will ensure that snow accumulation doesn’t affect your furnace’s performance, keeping you safe and warm while the storm rages outside.

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Our Complete Guide to Home Security

Security in the Smart Home Era

What Your Smart Home Devices Are Really Listening To + How To Control What They Share

Your Smart Home Isn't That Smart — It's Just Less Private

Is Your Wi-Fi Making You Vulnerable? How to Lock Down Your Network

The Hidden Security Risks of Using Wi-Fi Baby Monitors

Is ChatGPT a Home Security Risk? Why You Shouldn't Get Too Comfy With AI

Outsmarting Burglers

8 Hidden Weak Spots Burglars Target (and How to Reinforce Them)

10 Renter-Friendly Ways to Make Your Apartment More Secure

Is Your Air Conditioner Putting Your Home Security at Risk?

How to Deter Burglars Using the Oldest Trick in the Book

How To Make a Stylish Shelf with a Secret Hideaway

Security Tips and Tricks

When Sharing Your Video Doorbell Footage Could Land You in Legal Trouble

8 Security Weak Spots That Car Jackers Exploit

Why Your Security Camera Keeps Randomly Disconnecting

Essential Security Tips For Locking Down Your Trailer

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A Step-By-Step Guide to Building a Tile Coffee Table With Wood Legs

Calculate the table top dimensions

To get started, determine the size of your tabletop understructure by laying out your tiles with 1/4-in. tile spacers to measure this accurately. Your calculations will work from the tile layer in, so the size of your tile layout determines the size of the backer board layer, which in turn determines the size of the wood frame to which the backer board is adhered.

Keep in mind that if you are using handmade tiles, not all your tiles will be exactly the same size, shape, etc. If your goal is to achieve perfect grout lines and uniform tile, I suggest continuing to follow these steps but using tile from a home center.

Cut the backer board

Using a large T-square and a pencil, draw the measurements for the backer board top (A), the long side (B), and the short side (C). Use an angle grinder with a masonry blade to cut the pieces to size.

Cut and assemble the table top framing

The backer board top (A) is 1/2-in. wider and longer than the wood frame it is attached to. This is to ensure the backer board sides (B and C) tuck in under the top and leave a clean edge for the tile to attach to.

Cut the short (E) and long (D) framing components out of the 2x4s. Cut them to their length first at the miter saw, then rip them to 2-1/2 inches wide at the table saw. 2-1/2-inch-wide framing components accommodate the width of the side tiles while still leaving room for mastic and grout to create a clean edge. Screw the short (E) and long (D) frame components together using 2-1/2-in. screws.

Attach the backer board to the frame

Secure the top (A) and sides (B and C) of the backer board to the table top framing components (D and E). Start with the backerboard sides (B and C). Remember, there is a 1/4-in. overhang on each side of the top (A) to allow the side pieces (B and C) to finish flush to the outside edge.  Space the backer board screws six to nine inches apart. To prevent splintering, do not install screws within 3/4-inch of the edges of the backer board.

Attach tiles to the tabletop

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to evenly spread the mastic on the backer board. Be sure to hold the trowel at a consistent, steep angle (around 45 degrees) as you pull it across the surface to capture the notch’s peak.

Transfer your tile layout to the mastic-covered table top. Start on the top (A), using a long straight edge and 1/4-in. spacers to keep your layout as evenly spaced as possible. To ensure full contact between the mastic and the back of the tile, you want the tiles to settle into the mastic when you lay them. If your handmade tiles have a curve that prevents them from making full contact with the mastic, apply more mastic to the back of the tile to ensure complete support.  This is referred to as “back buttering” the tile.  The goal is to avoid voids between the tile, mastic and backer board.  Voids increase the likelihood that the tile will crack under stress or excess weight.

When the top is complete, stop and let it sit overnight and set up. If you have to back butter multiple tiles, give it two days to ensure the mastic has hardened. Move on to the sides (B and C) only after the top tiles are secure in case you need to use tape to hold the edge tiles in place while their mastic dries.

Once all the tiles are attached, allow the mastic to dry and harden for another 24 hours before proceeding to the grout stage. During this time, move on to making the legs.

Cut the wood for legs

Cut the wood for your table legs from the cut list above using the miter and table saw. Because all the leg components are cut from the same 1-3/4-in.-square stock, label them as you go to keep each upright (F), outrigger (G), crossbrace (H), and stretcher (J) in order for assembly.

Assemble the legs with dowels

The legs are assembled as in Fig. B above with doweled butt joints. To ensure the dowelled joints line up correctly, you will use dowel centers. This process is time-consuming and requires some prototyping and practice if you haven’t built with dowel joinery before.

To create a joint using dowel centers:

1. Drill two 1/4-in. holes, a little deeper than half the length of your dowels, on one of the two pieces you will be joining. If you are not confident in drilling these holes straight, drill them on the drill press.
2. Place the dowel centers in the drilled 1/4-in. holes.
3. Bring the second piece of wood you are joining into position so the sides are aligned and flush.
4. Tap the end of the second piece of wood with a rubber mallet, forcing the point of the dowel center to leave a divot, aligning the 1/4-in. holes on the second piece of wood.
5. Use the divots left by the dowel centers as center points to drill corresponding 1/4-in. holes, a little deeper than half the length of your fluted dowels, in the second piece of wood.
6. Dry-fit the joint together without glue to ensure it is square and that the sides of the pieces are flush.
7. If the pieces dry-fit together as you like, glue and clamp the joint with clamping squares to ensure it stays square while the wood glue cures.

Work joint by joint until you have two three-dimensional “L” legs made of the uprights (F), outriggers (G) and crossbraces (H). Leave the legs separate, not attaching the stretchers (J) until attaching the legs to the underside of the table.

Sand and seal the legs

Once the glue has fully dried on all the joints of the legs, sand the assembled legs and loose stretchers (J) smooth using a palm sander. Step through the grits, starting at 120-grit and finishing at 220-grit. Vacuum off the legs to remove any sanding dust once finished.

Use a paintbrush to apply a generous coat of tung oil to the sanded leg components. Allow the tung oil to absorb into the wood for a few minutes, then wipe away any excess with a shop rag.  Apply two to three coats and allow to dry in between. Tung oil will develop a sheen as the coats build up. To keep a matte or stain sheen, be sure to wipe back each coat with a painter’s rag.

Rout a reveal

Use a wood router equipped with a 1/2-in. straight-cut router bit or a router table to rout a 1/2-in.-wide x 1/2-in.-deep rabbet along each outside edge of the outriggers (G) and the top of the uprights (F) they are doweled to. Clamp a scrap piece of wood to serve as a guide for the router. You may also choose to use a router table to create the rabbets.

This rabbet will compensate for any curves or imperfections along the bottom edges of your side tiles, making the attached legs appear to float below the tile top.

Attach the legs

To connect the legs to the tabletop:

1. Lay the tiled top upside down on a furniture pad or blanket to protect the tiles while securing the legs.
2. Start at one end. Secure one “L” of the legs to the framing, holding it in 1/4-in. from the edge of the outside short framing (E) piece. Pre-drill countersunk holes through the leg outriggers (G) and crossbraces (H) into the framing components (D and E) of the table top. Use three-inch screws to secure it.
3. Bring together both sets of legs with the stretchers (J) at the top and bottom of the leg assembly.  Connect the stretchers (J) centered on the crossbraces (H) at the top and bottom with dowels and wood glue.
4. With the stretcher (J) dowel joints still wet, use clamps to hold together the leg assembly as you attach the second “L” of the legs to the framing at the other end of the tile table top, using three-inch screws. Have a damp rag handy to wipe away any glue drips and squeeze out.  This can be a stressful part of the build.  Allow yourself the time and don’t rush – wood glue does not dry instantly.
5. Allow the wood glue to fully dry.

Once legs have been secured and fully dried, get help to flip the table over – it will be heavy!!!

Apply grout to the tabletop

Remove all the 1/4-in. spacers from between the tiles. Mix the grout in small batches to prevent it from hardening before you can spread it. Using a rubber tile float, work the grout into the joints, forcing it all the way to the bottom of each crevice.

Allow the grout to set for a few minutes, then wipe away excess from the tile surfaces with a damp sponge, rinsing frequently. Work in stages—let the grout firm up between passes so you don’t pull it out of the joints. Grout is very forgiving, so take your time.

Clean the tile haze

Once you have wiped away the excess grout, you will notice a buildup of grout powder drying on the tiles’ surfaces. Allow it to dry and become chalky. Then, with a clean, dry painter’s rag, rub away the haze.  You will have to do this several times until the haze fully disappears.  For this to work well, the rag must be clean at the start of each wipe down.  If haze is not fully cleaned off within 24 hours, it will cure and become permanent.  This step is crucial to make the tiles project look crisp and clean. I usually do a bunch of passes with a clean rag, then do one final pass the next day to ensure all the haze is cleaned off.

Apply grout sealer

Once the grout has fully cured, use a grout sealer to prevent dirt and stains from building up on the grout between the tiles. Use a small artist paintbrush or applicator to apply the grout sealer directly to the grout, being careful not to let it build up and dry on the tiles. Grout sealer will yellow over time and become noticeable on the edges of the tiles. It is good practice to reseal grout once every 12  to 18 months.

FAQ

Do I have to use mastic to set my tiles in place?

You will find a choice between thinset and mastic.  It really depends on how much wear and tear the tiles will see. Thinset is most often used for tile jobs such as floors, wet areas, or large tiles.  Mastic is best for small ceramic/porcelain wall tiles in dry/damp areas, such as backsplashes or tabletops.

Should a coffee table be taller or shorter than a couch?

For ease of reaching and placing things on a coffee table, it is best for the coffee table height to be about the same height as the seat on your couch, plus or minus an inch or two.

Can you attach tile directly to wood?

When attaching tile directly to wood, you must use a flexible adhesive.  Wood expands and contracts at a different rate than tile, which could, over time, create cracks and weakness in your tile work.  This is often circumvented by placing cement backer board between the tiles and wood.

What is the 2/3 rule for coffee tables?

When calculating how big your coffee table should be relative to your couch, the 2/3 rule applies. The rule says a coffee table’s length should be about two-thirds the length of the sofa.  This will make the coffee table feel proportionally appropriate to the couch and won’t block movement or overwhelm the space.

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