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Wednesday, December 13, 2023

What Does Asbestos Insulation Look Like?

For centuries, asbestos was considered a magic material. This fibrous silicate mineral is abundant, it won’t burn, and it’s unaffected by corrosive chemicals.

In ancient times, the Greeks spun it into cloth and the Romans used it to make candle wicks. Because the fibers are strong and add reinforcement, potters incorporated it into clay goods. When large deposits were discovered in parts of Canada and the Northern U.S. in the 1800s, manufacturers used it for construction materials, including insulation.

But in the 20th century, asbestos was recognized as a health hazard. Since then, it’s been mostly banned. Houses built prior to the 1980s may still contain asbestos insulation in walls and attics, around pipes and in other places.

“Asbestos-containing insulation cannot be identified visually,” says Michelle Whitmer, an asbestos expert with The Mesothelioma Center. “Homeowners should hire professionals to test suspicious materials instead of using DIY testing kits.”

But Reuben Saltzman, CEO of Structure Tech, disagrees. He says the most common materials with asbestos vermiculite loose-fill and pipe insulation aren’t that difficult to identify.

When Was Asbestos Insulation Banned?

Researchers linked asbestos to disease in the early 1900s. Efforts by the U.S. government to regulate its use began in the 1930s, despite opposition by various manufacturers. Congress passed laws in the 1970s that empowered federal agencies to impose restrictions.

Acting under the auspices of one such law, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) declared asbestos to be carcinogenic in 1975.

Similarly, after passage of the Toxic Substances Control Act of 1976, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) made efforts to ban asbestos from building materials. While neither constituted an outright ban, they marked the beginning of the end for asbestos insulation.

Asbestos use continued into the 1980s, however, until the EPA issued a ban and phase-out rule in 1989 to prohibit the manufacture, importation, processing and sale of asbestos-containing products. The U.S. Court of Appeals for the Fifth Circuit overturned the rule in 1991, however. as a result, asbestos continues to be allowed in certain products, like automobile brake linings and gaskets.

New legislation increased the EPA’s authority, and it issued a final rule in 2019 banning asbestos in new construction materials.

What Does Asbestos Insulation Look Like?

“Asbestos insulation may look like wrapping material or loose-fill material that is fluffy or stony in appearance,” says Whitmer.

“The types of insulation in homes most likely to contain asbestos include loose-fill vermiculite insulation and wrap insulation commonly found around pipes and A/C units. Some homes may have spray-on or block insulation containing asbestos, but these materials were most common in commercial buildings.”

Asbestos pipe insulation

Asbestos pipe insulation is often white and may be taped in place, says Whitmer. She notes many types of wrap insulation don’t contain asbestos, so this material needs testing the most.

Adds Saltzman: “If you look at a cross-section of the pipe, it’s going to look like cardboard. When you see that, it’s almost a guarantee that it contains asbestos.”

Fibrous loose-fill insulation

Your chances of coming across fibrous loose-fill insulation containing asbestos is slim, according to Saltzman. However, Whitmer says small amounts of loose-fill containing asbestos fibers may still be out there. “Some loose-fill asbestos insulation appears whitish or gray and fluffy,” she says.

Fiberglass, on the other hand, is usually yellow or pink, while cellulose looks like little pieces of paper.

Whitmer adds whitish insulation is mainly composed of amphibole asbestos varieties like chrysotile and tremolite, which can also appear greenish. The grayish loose-fill contains crocidolite, a serpentine asbestos with a bluish tinge. Other types of asbestos that may be in loose-fill, like amosite and anthophyllite, may turn it brown.

Vermiculite

“The one big type of insulation that contains asbestos is vermiculite,” says Saltzman. He describes it as light, fluffy stuff that looks like little rocks but weighs about as much as Styrofoam. Vermiculite derived from a mine in Libby, Montana and marketed under the brand name Zonolite is the main offender.

If you find this in your walls or attic, says Saltzman don’t just send it to a lab for testing, because the asbestos content is below the EPA’s threshold level of one percent. “This particular material is still very, very dangerous,” he says.

The best course of action? Contact the Zonolite Attic Insulation Trust for a test kit. And after you collect a sample and mail it back, they’ll determine whether it came from the Libby mine. “My advice is to treat is like it does contain asbestos until proven otherwise,” he says.

Asbestos block insulation

Block insulation isn’t actual blocks, but rather rectangular batts, or panels, from one to four inches thick. They’re usually made from a combination of foam, fiberglass and asbestos. The asbestos is often visible as small, hairlike fibers extending from the surface.

Asbestos foam insulation

Asbestos spray foam, often found in basements of older homes, resembles polyurethane foam, except it’s gray instead of yellowish with a bumpy, fibrous texture. If it’s in good condition, Saltzman recommends leaving it alone. If some of it has frayed, encapsulate it with an elastomeric or plastic coating.

How To Tell the Difference Between Cellulose and Asbestos Insulation

After 1976, cellulose became the most common substitute for loose-fill asbestos. In some really old homes, the two might be mixed together in wall or attic cavities.

Cellulose isn’t fibrous like asbestos. “If it looks like fiberglass or cellulose, it will not contain asbestos,” Saltzman says.

The best way to distinguish one from the other is by color. Cellulose is typically a pastel white, yellow or gray. Asbestos loose-fill may be also white or gray, but it often has tinges of blue, brown or black.

What To Do if You Find Asbestos Insulation

If you suspect the presence of asbestos insulation, get it tested ASAP. You can buy kits that let you collect a sample and send it to a lab. Or, if you follow Whitmer’s advice, have pros come into your home to do the testing. That’s probably safer, although considerably more expensive.

Kits cost from $10 to $35 with postage included. The cost for an in-home evaluation runs from $200 and $800, depending on the size of the home and how much asbestos may be present.

If the insulation tests positive for asbestos, you don’t necessarily need to remove it. If it’s in a sealed cavity, or locked into a solid form so the fibers can’t become airborne, it’s safe to leave it in place.

However, when you’re remodeling, disturbing the insulation and filling the air with asbestos fibers is unavoidable. In that case, you should test it and remove it.

No federal law prohibits you from removing asbestos insulation yourself, but some state regulations do. The task is extremely dangerous because microscopic fibers that you inhale can settle in your lungs and cause a serious form of cancer called mesothelioma.

No matter where you live, it’s best to call an asbestos abatement company and have the insulation professionally removed.

About the Experts

  • Michelle Whitmer is a writer and asbestos expert at The Mesothelioma Center at Asbestos.com. She has more than 14 years of experience covering medical and environmental issues.
  • Reuben Saltzman is CEO of the Minnesota-based home inspection service Structure Tech. He teaches home inspection seminars across the country.


Article source here: What Does Asbestos Insulation Look Like?

Learn the Basics of Home Insulation

You wouldn’t think of going outside in freezing weather without the proper gear. But when you come home and switch into lighter clothing, what’s protecting you from the elements? That’s right … your home’s insulation.

It’s no secret home insulation keeps you comfortable while reducing your heating and cooling bills. That’s why it’s a must when building a new home or renovating an existing one. In most cases, installing insulation is a DIY job.

But Reuben Saltzman, CEO of the Minnesota-based home inspection service Structure Tech, says insulation by itself won’t work if you have gaps in your building envelope where air can pass through. “Air leaks are the cause of 70% of problems in attics, and are more important to address than insulation,” he says.

Once you’ve taken care of the gaps, it’s time to decide which type of insulation to use, how much you need and where to put it. Here’s a primer to get you headed in the right direction.

Types of Insulation

As counterintuitive as it seems, air is one of the best insulators there is, as long as it remains static and isolated. That’s why most insulation products are lightweight, porous and even fluffy. They hold small cells of air, separated from each other so heat can’t pass from one cell to another.

Here are six common insulation options you’ll find at building centers:

  • Fiberglass: Available in pre-cut batts, rolls or loose fill, fiberglass insulation is spun from ultra-thin glass fibers. Faced batts and rolls come covered with a fire-resistant Kraft paper backing, which acts as a moisture barrier; unfaced batts lack this backing. Batts are cut to fit standard stud spacing (16 inches) and joist/rafter spacing (24 inches).
  • Cellulose: Available only as loose fill, cellulose is manufactured from bits of recycled newsprint and other paper and treated with boric acid to resist insects and fires. You need special equipment to blow it, which is usually available to rent.
  • Mineral wool: Also known as rock wool, mineral wool comes only in unfaced batts. It’s fire- and mold-resistant, insulates as well as fiberglass and installs easier, but it’s heavier. It’s a good choice for basements, especially furnace rooms and subfloors.
  • Rigid foam: Made of polystyrene, this comes in four-by-eight-foot sheets of thicknesses ranging from one-half to two inches. A reflective foil coating on both sides prevents heat from radiating through. It’s most often used to insulate cement walls in basements.
  • Polyurethane spray foam: Inch-for-inch, this is the best insulator of all. It’s available in open-cell or denser closed-cell formulas and acts as its own moisture barrier. Installation requires special equipment, and it’s messy, so it’s best left to pros.
  • Pipe insulation: This consists of foam-rubber tubing with a split along its length that lets you easily fit the insulation around the pipes.

What to use where

  • Attics: You can use pretty much any type of insulation in an attic except for rigid foam, but Saltzman recommends blown cellulose. “It’s the most cost-effective for new construction in Minnesota,” he says. That’s no doubt true in other states as well.
  • Walls: Fiberglass batts are sized to fit exactly between wall studs, so installing them is easy. The paper backing of faced batts extends an inch beyond the insulation, making it easy to staple to stud faces. Saltzman, however, has two reasons for recommending the unfaced variety and covering it with a plastic moisture barrier: The moisture barrier will be tight and continuous, and you’re more likely to fill the entire cavity and leave no gaps.
  • Basements:Basement insulation needs to be moisture-resistant, so mineral wool and rigid foam are the best choices. Use mineral wool to fill wall cavities, rigid foam to insulate bare concrete walls and pipe insulation to cover exposed water pipes.

How Much Insulation Do I Need?

The R-value of an insulation product measures its resistance to heat transfer, and it’s usually measured per inch. The R-value for cellulose is roughly 3.5 per inch, so you’ll need four inches of material to achieve a total R-value of 14.

The R-values you need for your walls and attic depend on your climate. Energy.gov publishes a chart that details recommended wall and attic R-values for every climate zone in the U.S.

It’s best to stick to these numbers and not overdo it. Adding more insulation than you need can lock in moisture by preventing air flow and do more harm than good.

Installation Tips

Seal gaps

Before you add any insulation, be sure to seal gaps with caulk or spray foam from a can. It’s especially important to seal gaps in attic floors, especially near walls and around lighting fixtures.

In the basement, be sure to seal the ends of floor joists where they meet the rim joists.

Cut batts to fit tightly

Batts are pre-cut to fit exactly between studs with standard spacing, but you may have to squeeze them into smaller spaces in corners and around windows and doors. The insulation works best if it fits without being compressed and stuffed. You can cut batts with a utility knife.

Install attic baffles

When you blow insulation into the attic, avoid covering the soffit vents or the attic won’t breathe, causing mold and moisture problems. Baffles are simple cardboard or plastic barriers stapled to the rafters above each vent to keep insulation away.

Don’t Cover Attic Insulation

You need a moisture barrier (typically plastic sheeting) between attic insulation and the ceiling drywall, but you should never cover the insulation from the top. If you do, it won’t breathe and condensation will form, causing it to clump and become moldy.

About the Expert

Reuben Saltzman is CEO of Structure Tech, a home inspection company serving Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota and surrounding areas. He’s been remodeling homes for most of his life.



Article source here: Learn the Basics of Home Insulation

The Mr. Heater Garage Heater Allows You to Use Your Workshop All Year Long

If youre lucky enough to have natural gas or propane, youll love having a Mr. Heater garage heater. The Big Maxx model is a popular option for heating large open spaces because of its efficient performance, quiet operation, compact design and powerful, even airflow. Another thing to love? This best garage heater can be controlled by a Wi-Fi-compatible smart thermostat. Imagine warming up the garage on your device without getting out of bed!

Wondering if a gas heater is right for you? Our digital editor, Ethan ODonnell, says, I have found that gas heaters are more efficient at heating up a cold space, are less expensive to operate and require less maintenance and repair than electric garage heaters.

What is a Mr. Heater garage heater?

The Mr. Heater garage heater is a powerful 50,000-British thermal unit (BTU) natural gas heater, which includes an liquified petroleum (LP) gas conversion kit. It has an impressive 82% thermal efficiency rating, and it’s designed to heat a 1,250- to 1,667-square-foot space. In other words, the Big Maxx (model#MHU50NG) will easily heat your three-car garage. The unit is 15 inches deep by 29 inches wide by 26 inches tall, with a black finish and three adjustable air louvers.

If the 50,000-BTU unit isnt right for your space, the Mr. Heater Big Maxx series is also available in 80,000 BTU and 125,000 BTU models. All three models have LP conversion kits, spark ignition, high-velocity fans and aluminized tubular heat exchangers included.

Before deciding on the size you need, ODonnell offers a tip. You should assess the level of insulation in your garage. If your garage will lose a substantial amount of heat through its ceiling, walls and garage door, it somewhat defeats the purpose of heating it and, therefore, requires a much larger heater,” he says.

Mr. Heater offers a three-year warranty on parts and burners, and a 10-year warranty on the heat exchanger.

Pros

  • 50,000 BTUs
  • 120-volt power source
  • High-velocity fan
  • Affordable
  • 82% operating efficiency
  • Horizontal or vertical venting
  • Includes an LP conversion kit
  • Includes a ceiling mount
  • Compatible with digital and smart thermostats
  • Three-year warranty on parts and burner
  • 10-year warranty on heat exchanger

Cons

  • Some buyers reported receiving dented units

Product Spotlight

Mr. Heater Big Maxx Garage Heater

Grab this 50,000-BTU garage heater for your shop, barn or warehouse. Add a smart thermostat and control the heat from anywhere.

How to Install and Use a Mr. Heater Garage Heater

Once the unit is installed, operation is as easy as adjusting the thermostat. Users have reported that set-up is relatively simple because the connectors are located on the outside of the unit.

If you love the idea of a warm garage and plan to install a garage heater, ODonnell offers some advice. Though it is possible to DIY, gas garage heaters are difficult to install due to venting and plumbing requirements,” he explains. “A professional will know all the building codes, permits and regulations applicable to different types of garage heating systems. Professionals will also test the heater for functionality and provide optimal operational instructions, ensuring that the garage is heated safely and efficiently as the system is used.

The Mr. Heater Big Maxx is designed to be mounted from the ceiling and includes two angle brackets. To add to its versatility, the exhaust can be vented vertically or horizontally. If youre tight on space, this gas-forced air heater only needs 1-inch of clearance from the ceiling and requires a standard 120-volt power outlet. However, be aware that it needs to have at least 8 feet of clearance from the floor to the base of the unit. Another thing to consider is that the venting is not included with the unit, since venting will need to be customized depending on the space and building codes. Again, we recommend calling in a professional when it comes to installation.

Once the unit is installed, pair it with a smart thermostat or simply choose the bundle with the analog thermostat included. Easy as pie!

The Best Amazon User Reviews

The Mr. Heater garage heater has plenty of happy, warm users. Here’s what they’re saying:

This was a great purchase for the money. Works good. Operates quietly. As a professional HVAC service tech, this is as good as major name brand products,” says Derek, a five-star reviewer.

Verified purchaser, Joe Peacock, writes, Well worth my money. This unit heater fits my needs quite well. It is well built and works great. It is a bit heavy to install by one person, but a strong back and careful planning can get it done safely. The venting and fuel supply is well placed. The instructions are easy to read and follow. I converted this unit to LP gas with the included kit and have it supplied with a 500 gallon LP tank outside my wood shop. The initial start-up went flawlessly. It worked exactly as the instructions stated.

I love having a heated three-car garage, and this heater is just the right size,” writes G. Preston, another verified buyer. “The packaged thermostat is a plus, although it is old-fashioned analog instead of digital. For a few more bucks a digital option would have been nice. The heater itself is reasonably quiet and very efficient. Installation is standard and requires a full day or a professional installer. At this price point, you won’t find a better heater.

FAQ

What size Mr. Heater do I need for my garage?

To give you a rough idea of the best BTU output needed for your garage, grab your laser tape measuring tool to calculate the cubic feet of the space.

  • First, multiply the length and width of the garage to calculate the square footage. Then, measure the ceiling height and multiply it by the square footage number to determine the total cubic feet.
  • Next, calculate the temperature rise by subtracting the coldest average low winter temperature in your region from the temperature youd like to keep in the garage. For instance, if you want to keep the temperature at 70 degrees Fahrenheit and the average low temperature is 10 degrees Fahrenheit, your temperature rise rate is 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Finally, to calculate the BTUs needed to heat a garage, multiply the cubic feet by 0.133. Multiply that number by the temperature rise.

However, this is where you need to consider how well your space is insulated and adjust accordingly. An HVAC professional can better advise you on sizing, building code regulations and venting requirements.

Does Mr. Heater need to be vented?

Yes, since the Mr. Heater garage heater is a natural gas and LP-burning heater, venting is necessary to avoid deadly fumes and gasses, like carbon monoxide, from being released into the space. So make sure the placement is convenient to an outside wall (or ceiling, if local code allows) that can accommodate proper venting.

Product Comparison

The 50,000 BTU Big Maxx gas heater is currently priced at around $430, compared to the popular Hot Dawg 45,000-BTU heater by Modine which is around $1,000. Both units are low-profile, ceiling-mounted units and require outside venting. The Hot Dawg doesn’t include an LP conversion kit, but one can be bought separately. Modine offers a 10-year manufacturer’s warranty on the Hot Dawg, similar to the 10-year heat exchanger warranty and three-year warranty on parts and burner like the Mr. Heater Big Maxx.

Where to Buy a Mr. Heater Garage Heater

Product Spotlight

Mr. Heater Big Maxx Garage Heater

Enjoy trouble-free warmth with a three-year warranty on parts and burners, and 10-year warranty on the heat exchanger.

Don’t let the cold keep you out of your garage. Once you grab the Mr. Heater garage heater you’ll wish you would have made the decision long ago. You can snag this life-changing workshop addition on Amazon, Walmart, The Home Depot, Tractor Supply Co. and Farm & Fleet.



Article source here: The Mr. Heater Garage Heater Allows You to Use Your Workshop All Year Long

5 Best Outdoor Fireplace Kits, According to a Contractor

Sunjoy Outdoor Fireplace With Wood Storage

Best Overall Outdoor Fireplace Kit

Sunjoy Outdoor Fireplace with Wood Storage

If you’re looking for an absolute stunner of a fireplace that you can install on your own, this large Sunjoy outdoor fireplace kit is worth a look. We’ve deemed it the best overall outdoor fireplace kit due to its appealing design, integrated storage for firewood and decor and attractive price point.

But what we love about this fireplace is that it looks as sleek as a permanent outdoor installation, but it’s notthough heavy at nearly 400 pounds total, it could be disassembled and moved if necessary. Speaking of the product weight, this is a DIY kit, but you may consider professional moving and assembly assistance if you’re not confident in your ability to lift and move the heavy pieces.

Once assembled, the Sunjoy fireplace heats an area of up to 10 square feet and, like all good fireplaces, the chimney funnels the smoke up and away from your gathering area. Locking mesh doors keep sparks from going rogue, and the included fire poker makes it easy to tend to your burn.

Another one of our favorite features about is the integrated storage. There are two cubby holes for storing extra firewood, plus two shelves lateral to the chimney for decor or other items.

Pros

  • Built-in storage for firewood
  • Great value for a large, sturdy outdoor fireplace
  • Not a permanent installation, but looks like one
  • Fire poker included

Cons

  • Pieces are heavy

Shop Now



Article source here: 5 Best Outdoor Fireplace Kits, According to a Contractor

Tuesday, December 12, 2023

5 Types of Furnaces

Hot water heater and furnace in basement

Gas Furnace

Gas furnaces generate heat by burning natural gas. They’re available in varying sizes and energy efficiencies and produce a hot, dry heat. While still the most widely used furnaces, they’re starting to lose market share to electric models due to utility costs, environmental concerns and tax incentives.

Mitchell says gas furnaces are an excellent choice in regions with harsh winters due to their powerful heating capacity. He suggests looking at more than just the initial price when selecting a furnace. “Gas furnaces might have higher installation costs,” he says, “but they generally offer lower monthly running costs.”

Gervais agrees. Gas furnaces, he says, are “a smart choice in regions with cold climates and affordable natural gas.” He adds they “require a connection to the gas supply and regular maintenance to ensure safety and efficiency.”

How to identify a gas furnace

It’s easy: You’ll see a gas supply line and exhaust flues. Low-efficiency gas furnaces will vent to the roof, while higher efficiency models vent out to an exterior wall.



Article source here: 5 Types of Furnaces

Monday, December 11, 2023

Can You Put a Hot Tub on a Deck?

If you’re thinking of getting a hot tub, your deck can seem like the perfect place to put it. The good news is, you can put one on a deck. But you’ll need thoughtful planning and the help of a contractor or structural engineer to do it safely.

If this project is on your wish list, read on for expert tips from four industry pros: Dusty Walters, owner of a hot tub sales and service company; Chris Hoppe, a structural engineer; Chris Jacobs, a licensed contractor; and Dennis Moore, a hot tub installer.

How To Tell If Your Hot Tub Is Deck Friendly

When purchasing a hot tub for your deck, carefully consider its weight and size.

Weight

Hot tubs are heavy. Even when empty, they can weigh 400 to 1,000 pounds. Filled with water and people, that number can soar to more than 10,000 pounds for larger models. “A hot tub full of water can weigh as much as a car,” Hoppe says. Most decks can’t support a load that large.

However, most decks can handle smaller to medium-sized tubs that hold three to six people and less than 600 gallons of water. These usually weigh 4,000 to 6,000 pounds when occupied a more manageable number. “A lot of tubs can fit on a residential deck, unless it’s a monster,” Jacobs says.

Size

Hot tubs have standard size ranges for small, medium and large models.

To determine what size hot tub will fit on your deck, use painter’s tape to mark these dimensions on the deck floor. See which size leaves enough room for walking, furniture and maintenance access. You’ll need 24 to 36 inches of clearance around all four sides.

Deck Considerations for a Hot Tub

Strength

“Decks must be properly supported and built to support the weight of a spa,” Moore says.

Most decks are built with 2- by 8-inch joists (floor supports) spaced 16 inches apart from the center of one board to the center of the next. Decks built this way can support 50 pounds per square foot (pps).

“What this means is, if you take a 12- by 12-inch bag of sand that weighs fifty pounds and laid it on every square foot on the deck, that is what it can hold,” Jacobs says. Put another way: A 100-sq.-ft. deck built to code could hold 5,000 pounds.

So how much weight can your deck handle? Whatever your structural engineer or contractor says it can. “We always recommend having an engineer check the deck to make sure it can handle the weight of the spa,” Walters says.

In the early planning stages, you can do some measuring and basic math to get a rough estimate. Go underneath the deck and measure the width of your joists and their distance apart. If they’re eight inches wide and spaced 16 inches apart, multiply your deck’s square footage by 50 for a rough idea of how much weight it can hold.

If your deck’s joists are a different measurement, consult with a pro to determine its weight limits.

Height

If your deck is really high off the ground, installation is still possible, but it will be more complex and expensive.

Walters doesn’t recommend carrying hot tubs on stairs, because it can damage the deck or spa. Instead, he uses a crane for installations higher than four or five feet off the ground. Make sure to factor in this cost to your project total.

Proximity to utilities

You’ll need a properly rated receptacle installed near your hot tub. The longer the distance between the hot tub and the main breaker box, the more expensive this will be. So consider this cost when determining if your deck is the best location.

Access to water will be necessary as well. A hose should reach the hot tub for filling and occasional topping off. Check the proximity of an outside spigot to your deck, or hire a plumber to add one closer to the tub.

Age

An aging deck may not be the best candidate for a hot tub. Exposure to the elements and ultraviolet rays can weaken deck boards over time. Also, older decks may not be built to today’s code requirements and could pose a safety risk.

If your deck is showing signs of decay weathered or split boards, rotting posts or loose railings consult with a contractor to assess its safety.

Reinforce the Deck

If your deck can’t hold the weight of the hot tub you want, structural reinforcements can be installed to increase its strength. Your engineer or contractor may suggest adding wider joists more closely spaced to support the additional weight.

They also may want to add or widen the deck’s footings. Footings are the structural support posts of a deck that evenly transfer the load to the ground. “Without stronger footings, [the deck] could start to sink under its own weight,” Jacobs says.

Sink the Hot Tub Into the Deck Instead

Another option is installing a recessed hot tub. Instead of resting on top of the deck, the tub sits on a poured concrete slab under it, so the top edge is flush or just above the deck floor. This eliminates the need to climb over the walls to enter and exit.

This setup has deck height requirements and must allow for maintenance access as well. “There are very specific things that need to be done to create service access on all four sides of the spa if you sink the spa into the deck,” Moore says. This can include decking and lattice skirting which can be removed to allow service workers to complete maintenance tasks.

About the Experts

Dusty Walters owns Colorado Springs Hot Tub Sales and Service in Colorado Springs, Colorado. He has 20 years of industry experience.

Chris Hoppe is a structural engineer in Philmont, New York with degrees in civil engineering and architecture from State University of New York at Buffalo. He has more than 30 years experience.

Chris Jacobs runs Barron and Jacobs, a remodeling construction company in Leeds, Massachusetts. He is a licensed construction supervisor with 36 years of construction experience.

Dennis Moore has been a delivery administration team member at New England Spas in Auburn, Massachusetts since 2020.



Article source here: Can You Put a Hot Tub on a Deck?

How To Build an Outdoor Dining Cart

Cutting List

KEY QTY. PART DIMENSIONS
A 1 Butcher Block Top 28″ x 16″ x 1-1/2″
B 4 Leg Post 26″ x 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″
C 4 Leg Foot 4″ x 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″
D 2 Crossmember 10″ x 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″
E 6 Cladding – Side 13″ x 5-1/2″ x 3/4″
F 6 Cladding – Back/Drawer Face 22-1/4″ x 5-1/2″ x 3/4″
G 4 Drawer Support 13″ x 2″ x 3/4″
H 2 Drawer Side – Upper 13″ x 3″ x 3/4″
J 2 Drawer Front/Back – Upper 16-1/4″ x 3″ x 3/4″
K 2 Drawer Side – Lower 13″ x 4 3/4″ x 3/4″
L 2 Drawer Front/Back – Lower 16-1/4″ x 4 3/4″ x 3/4″
M 4 Drawer Bottom A 17-3/4″ x 5-1/2″ x 3/4″
N 2 Drawer Bottom B 17-3/4″ x 2″ x 3/4″
P 2 Drawer Stop 3″ x 3/4″ x 3/4″

Cut the parts

  • Most parts need to be cut to length on the miter saw.
  • Cut the drawer parts to width on the table saw.


Article source here: How To Build an Outdoor Dining Cart

Smart Ways to Use Citric Acid Around the Home

Citric acid is a surprisingly powerful natural cleaner. Popular in Europe, this versatile product is great for removing limescale, hard wate...