Improving indoor air quality is a hot topic these days. Whether you’re concerned about smoke from wildfires or how to keep your family safe from allergens and viruses floating in the atmosphere, air ionizers may provide a breath of fresh air.
An air ionizer uses an innovative technology in which negatively charged ions are expelled into the air. The ions attach themselves to small particles moving through the room. Once bonded, the contaminants get so heavy they fall to the floor or stick to surfaces. Then they can be wiped or vacuumed away.
“The benefit of using ionizers vs. HEPA air filters,” says Michael Clark, founder of Pulled.com, “is that they can attack finer particles, all the way down to 0.1 microns.”
These are the factors to consider when buying an air ionizer:
Does it meet recommended Clean Air Delivery Rate (CADR) for that sized room?
What is its noise level?
Does it feature any smart technology?
Does it emit zero or only trace amounts of ozone?
How much does it cost?
Some ionizers have fans, while others come with UV lights or filters. With all this in mind, here’s a list of air ionizers to help you achieve better air.
When you’re ordering soil in bulk, getting the right amount is crucial. One or two bags of potting soil should be fine for a small number of flower pots,. But a new raised garden bed or a similar landscaping project will take a lot more than a few bags of Miracle Gro.
You might be wondering, “How much soil do I need?” Unlike the bulk section at the grocery store, ordering soil is not about weight. The answer is all about volume.
Measuring and Estimating Soil Volume
Soil is sold by cubit feet and yards, not pounds or ounces. Joe Raboine, director of residential hardscapes at Belgard describes one cubic yard as a 3-ft. x 3-ft. x 3-ft cube.
Most of the time, you won’t be working with a perfect cubic yard. To estimate soil volume for any area, all you need is a tape measure.
“The basic formula is simple: Length x Width x Height = Volume,” says Michael Dean, co-founder of Pool Research. Then divide the number of cubic feet by 27. So one cubic yard = 27 cubic feet = 1,728 cubic inches.
How To Estimate Soil Volume: Two Examples
Let’s start with a larger example from Raboine, for a 40-foot by 50-foot yard that requires six inches of soil. First, he says, calculate the volume at a depth of one foot. “To convert to six-inch depth, simply divide in half,” he says.
Dimensions
Cubic Feet
Cubic Yards
40 feet long x 50 feet wide x 1 foot deep
1,000
37
40 feet long x 50 feet wide x 6 inches deep
500
18.5
Here’s a smaller example: For this raised garden bed, with dimensions of 84 inches long x 36 inches wide x 28.25 inches deep, there are two ways to run the formula. Raboine first finds the number of cubic inches, then divides down to cubic yards.
Dimensions
Cubic Inches
Cubic Feet
Cubic Yards
84 inches long x 36 inches wide x 28.25 inches deep
85,428
49.4
1.8
Dean first converts the initial dimensions from inches to feet, then runs the formula.
Dimensions
Cubic Feet
Cubic Yards
7 feet long x 3 feet wide x 2.3 feet deep
48.3
1.8
The numbers have been rounded to the nearest tenth.
Finally, these examples are for estimating a simple rectangle. For an L-shaped raised garden bed or other unique area, divide it into rectangles or squares and find the volume of each.
Soil Calculator Tools
If math isn’t your thing, there are even easier ways to find how much soil you need. Plenty of free soil calculators can be found online. Some soil and landscape retailers build calculators into their websites.
Dean recommends the Omni Calculator. You type in your dimensions in centimeters, inches, feet or several other units of measurement. It will also give you a cost estimate if you enter a price per unit.
Soil can settle over time, so you may need to add more after a year or two. This is where bags from the garden center again come in handy. A bag of garden soil from The Home Depot is usually between one and two cubic feet.
Mulching isn’t only important in the spring. There are plenty of reasons to apply mulch in other seasons, including the winter.
Why Mulch in the Winter?
Winter mulching is a critical tool for gardeners to protect plants against frigid conditions. Soil under the mulch doesn’t freeze, and that allows the plants to absorb more water.
“By putting mulch down at this time, you will help stabilize the temperature of the soil right around freezing,” wrote Gillman, an associate professor of horticulture at the University of Minnesota.
“Applying mulch too soon may delay freezing and encourage heaving and thawing. Applying it too late may cause the roots of plants to experience temperatures below that which they can handle.”
What Can You Use to Mulch in the Winter?
“Great mulches for winter include bark chips, shredded bark, straw, evergreen boughs and other loose, coarse-textured organic materials,” according to OregonLive.
How much you use is more important than what you use. Perry suggests applying a two- or three-inch layer.
Removing Winter Mulch
Know when to remove winter mulch depends on the climate of your region and the start and end frost dates. However, there are some telltale signs.
“When the air is warmer and the threat of severe cold is behind you, this is the perfect time to remove that mulch from your perennials. Leaving the winter blanket in place is likely to smother them or encourage the growth of harmful mold — removing the mulch will allow your perennials to grow and thrive.”
After surviving Hurricane Ida’s 150-mile-per-hour winds and historic rainfall, people in Louisiana and Mississippi faced electrical failures as well as food and fuel shortages. The hurricane also pummeled the New York City metro area, causing tornadoes and flash flooding that shut down the world’s largest public transit system.
Renters and owners in different regions faced the same problem: How do you clean up after so much water?
It’s daunting to see signs of flooding in your home, like active water on the floor or water stains up the walls. The clean-up process begins by accepting your landscape has changed and knowing it can be fixed. Start with these tips to help you clean up following a flood from a hurricane or other natural disaster, no matter where you live.
Safety note: After a flood, if standing water remains in your home, turn off the electricity and gas before doing anything else.
The EPA also recommends long pants, sleeves and gloves to avoid touching mold. Wear rubber boots to help avoid shocks and keep your feet dry. If you have asthma, allergies or other breathing problems, it’s important to discuss your clean-up plans with your doctors.
Remove the Water
After flooding, it’s important to remove as much of the water as possible as quickly as possible while still remaining safe.
You can use a bucket or other container to carry water out. When there’s only a small amount left, a wet/dry shop vacuum cleaner is helpful. Shovel out mud and debris while it’s wet or it will create a crust in your home.
Because a home needs to dry from the inside out, you may also need to tear down wet drywall or plaster. Remove wall coverings like paneling and wallpaper, as well as insulation, up to at least the highest visible water line. All should be removed up to the highest point the water reached, so be sure to check for any signs of rise beyond that line, too.
Toss and Sanitize
If something sat in flood waters and can’t be cleaned, it’s got to go. Flood waters can bring in contaminated sewer water, and items that sat in water for longer than 48 hours can produce mold. This typically means things like books or other soft surfaces that can’t be sanitized.
Contamination is another worry. Put furniture, rugs, carpets or anything that possibly came in contact with sewer water in plastic bags, not just directly in a trash can or on the sidewalk.
Take photos of things before your throw them away, for insurance purposes and your peace of mind.
Avoid sweeping because it can turn up dust. Instead, spray down areas. Then wipe up the dust with a cloth, or use a shop vac.
Use Fans
Flooding can also contaminate the air in your house or apartment, bringing germs, bugs or other pests into your home.
During the clean-up process, run your kitchen and bathroom fans and ventilators to keep the air moving and discourage mold growth. Mount box fans in the windows and set them to blow air out to help extract dirt, dust and mold spores. Depending on your level of flooding, you might need professional cleaning help.
Moisture absorbers like DampRid help draw out the moisture and odors in rooms and smaller areas where air isn’t easily circulated. DampRid moisture absorbers can be placed anywhere around the house. Just keep them away from children and pets.
Get Help (and Keep Your Receipts)
The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) approves tax-free assistance and grants that do not need to be repaid for disaster-related expenses.
When announcing more than $17 million in aid after Hurricane Sally tore through Alabama in 2020, FEMA recommended keeping receipts for reimbursement for disaster-related expenses for at least three years. Reimbursable expenses include professional cleaners and home repairs.
One last thing: When flood damage is more than one DIYer can handle, it’s OK to admit it and ask for help.
There are a lot of important maintenance steps to take before leaving your cabin for the season, including what to do with your refrigerator. Your fridge is one of your largest and most important appliances, so make sure you’re doing everything you can to prolong its life. You’ll save money on your energy bill as well.
Should You Unplug the Fridge When You Leave?
Yes. Unplugging a refrigerator significantly lowers your energy expenses when your cabin isn’t in use. However, there’s more to it than just disconnecting the fridge from the outlet.
Dispose of any uneaten foods and give the fridge a thorough cleaning. Wait at least 15 minutes after unplugging the refrigerator to clean it — longer if it has a freezer, which needs to be fully thawed before you begin.
After cleaning, wipe all areas with a dry rag so there’s no remaining moisture. Before you leave the cabin, prop open the fridge doors to prevent mold or foul odors from forming. If your refrigerator has an ice maker, disconnect the water supply.
Does Unplugging a Fridge Hurt its Lifespan?
No. Whether you’re moving, leaving for vacation or turning it off at the end of the cabin season, you can unplug your fridge without causing damage, according to Maytag. Make sure to clean the fridge and follow the aforementioned maintenance steps to prevent mold buildup.
How to Store a Fridge
Besides leaving the fridge doors open, leave it upright, according to publicstorage.com. The site also recommends adding dryer sheets to trap odors.
Turning the Fridge Back On
Once you return to your cabin in the spring and plug the fridge back in, it will take awhile before it’s cooled enough to store food. “Most refrigerator manuals advise you to wait at least 8 to 12 hours before it’s safe to use again,” according to KitchenSeer. And check your fridge for leaks or unusual odors.
Soil is a lot more than just dirt. Soil gives plants the nutrients and water they need to survive and thrive. It also helps them breathe, and provides an anchor for their roots to grow deeply.
If your soil is lacking in any way, your plants could suffer. Knowing what kind of soil works best with different species of plants is the key to growing a healthy garden. Here’s a look at the six main types of soil and the gardening applications best suited for each.
Loamy soil
Three main components make up soil: sand, silt, and clay. Loamy soil includes all three in equal amounts. That means that it drains well, retains a lot of moisture, and breathes enough for air to reach the roots of a plant. Those factors make it an ideal all-around choice for gardening.
Sandy soil
The gritty texture of sandy soil makes it naturally dry and crumbly. It’s typically not highly nutritious; its nutrients can be easily washed away during wet periods. But as long as it’s supplemented with organic fertilizer or similar additives, sandy soil makes a great bed for root vegetables (carrots, etc.) and bulbs (tulips, etc.).
Silty soil
The high silt concentration of this soil allows it to retain large amounts of moisture and nutrients. That makes it a fantastic choice for gardening, provided your garden drains adequately. Mix in a little organic compost and your silty soil will be perfectly suited for fruits and vegetables.
Peaty soil
“Peat,” a spongy natural material made of partially decomposed organic matter, typically forms in wetlands and bogs. The peat makes this soil acidic and less nutritional. To grow healthy plants in peaty soil, mix in nutrient-rich organic matter, plus additives like lime to lower the acidity.
Chalky soil
The high levels of chalk make this soil alkaline, the opposite of acidic. Some plants, like lilacs and Boston ivy, thrive in alkaline soils. Others will suffer nutrient deficiencies, resulting in yellowing leaves and stunted growth.
Gardeners with chalky soil face two options: Stick with plants that grow best in an alkaline environment, or cultivate and correct your soil’s pH balance with organic compost materials.
Clay soil
It’s easy to spot clay soil — usually grayish and wet, with a tendency to stick together in clumps. Clay soil is great for shrubs like hostas. It can even serve as a base for fruit trees.
These covers protect vegetable gardens planted in rows against frost and insects. This long Agfabric cover can protect an entire row of crops. It also works as a wrap for shrubs. It comes in multiple sizes and you can cut it to your desired length. Install it over garden hoops to create an insulated space around your plants.
