Would You Turn Off Your Lights for Migrating Birds?

On any night in the fall and spring, there might be thousands, if not millions, of birds flying unseen overhead. But unfortunately, each year between 350 million to one billion of them die due to man-made lights. The good news is that we are learning how to help, with just the flip of a switch.

How Do Lights Affect Migrating Birds?

Bright lights and big cities attract birds, similar to how porch lights attract moths. Except the lights disorient them in flight.  Some crash into windows and die; more than 270 species of North American birds are known to collide with buildings due to light pollution. Others are thrown off their migration paths and never make it to their destinations. Nocturnal search lights can cause birds to circle for hours, calling out in confusion.

“Not only do artificial lights disrupt and confuse nocturnal migrants, such as many types of songbirds and waterfowl, they also cause birds to alter their feeding and reproductive behaviors,” says independent wildlife biologist Amy Sugeno, who specializes in songbirds and waterfowl.

How Can Homeowners Help Nocturnal Migrating Birds?

• Turn off exterior house lights and downshield exterior lighting to eliminate lights that can be seen from above.
• Turn off spotlights and floodlights.
• Turn off or minimize interior, lobby and atrium lights.
• Close curtains in the morning before leaving for work.
• Install window coverings on rooms where nighttime light is needed.
• Install automatic controls and sensors to turn off lights not in use.
• Use newer technology to avoid over-lighting areas.
• Join the Audubon Lights Out Pledge.
• Encourage your city and work place to sign up for Audubon’s Lights Out Program.

Keeping lights low or off also helps the wildlife and insects in your yard and saves money on your power bill.

“Artificial lights don’t just affect birds,” says Sugeno. “They have been shown to negatively affect many other animal species, including nesting sea turtles, moths, bats, frogs and even humans.”

Why Do Birds Migrate at Night?

Cooler temperatures prevent them from overheating. Darkness keeps them safe from hawks, falcons and other daytime predators. Night air is less turbulent so it takes less effort to navigate.

What Birds Migrate at Night?

Most land birds migrate at night, among them sparrows, thrushes, orioles, cuckoos, flycatchers, warblers and vireos. Daytime fliers include swifts, swallows, pelicans, most hummingbirds and birds of prey.

Cities Turning Off Lights for Migrating Birds

Cities and towns like Chicago, Dallas and Philadelphia are helping migrating birds to varying degrees. Landmarks like the 9/11 Memorial in New York City and the Gateway Arch in St. Louis dim their lights as well.

Raleigh, North Carolina, is one of the most recent to announce it will turn off all non-essential lighting in city facilities between 11 p.m. and 6 a.m. from Sept. 10 to Nov. 30. According to a statement from the city: “Migratory bird populations are in serious decline, and such collisions are significant contributors to these losses. Turning off lights is a simple way to make a positive impact!”

Are Birds in Decline?

Yes. There are nearly three billion fewer birds in North America now than in 1970. That’s more than one in four of all birds. More than 90 percent of those losses come from just 12 families, among them warblers, finches, sparrows and blackbirds. Building collisions from light pollution are one of the largest causes of bird mortality, second only to cats.

Can I See Birds Migrating at Night?

Yes, but it takes work. First, check BirdCast’s migrating bird maps and alerts. You can watch birds on radar, or use a spotting scope or binoculars to see them flying across the lighted face of the moon. Listen for their short flight noises as well. A microphone makes it easier to catch the more subtle calls.

Will Turning Off My Few Lights Really Make a Difference?

Yes. Each household adds to the strength of collective community efforts.

Article source here: Would You Turn Off Your Lights for Migrating Birds?

Tips for Planting Grass Seed in Fall

How many plants are in your yard? If you have a lawn, the answer is: Too many to count. The average quarter-acre lawn contains millions of grass plants.

Fortunately, these plants start easily from seed. Grass is one of the most common plants on the planet, and one of the easiest to germinate. Still, timing and technique are important. Read on to learn more about sowing grass seed in the fall.

Should You Plant Grass Seed in Fall or Spring?

Yes to both! Fall is best for starting lawns in the North, while spring is better in the South. However, fall is the time for overseeding Southern lawns with a cool-season grass variety so they stay green in winter. So fall seeding has its place in both regions.

When Is the Best Time To Plant Grass Seed?

That depends on where you live and what kind of grass you’re growing. Cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass) thrive in the cooler temperatures of fall, while warm-season grasses (Bermudagrass, centipede grass, bahiagrass and zoysia grass) peak in late spring and early summer.

Those are optimum times for growth, and consequently the optimum times to sow grass seed for the respective cool- or warm-season grass. If sowing in fall, do it at least 45 days before your expected first frost date. That could be late September in Minnesota, or early November in Oklahoma.

Planting Grass Seeds in the Fall

Here’s how to ensure your fall grass seed sprouts easily and effectively.

Soil preparation

As with any garden bed, the time to improve the soil is before planting. It’s especially important for compacted soils or those with primarily heavy clay.

Compacted soils should be loosened; you can do small patches with a spade fork or an entire bed with a tiller. If the soil is poor (say, impervious clay or sieve-like sand), spread a couple of inches of compost and mix it in. Compost helps clay soil drain better and sandy soil retain moisture and nutrients. Plus it adds nutrients and beneficial microbes.

Choosing grass seed

Choose a seed mix suited to your climate and conditions. Many bagged grass seeds include more than one grass species, or a blend of more than one variety. This helps ensure resistance to environmental factors like drought or heavy foot traffic, and promotes genetic diversity.

To make it easier for the consumer, manufacturers label some grass seed mixes specifically for problem situations, such as shade or heavy traffic. These mixes contain the varieties best suited to the situation.

A popular mix might include Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue and perennial ryegrass. Each brings something different to the table. Kentucky bluegrass forms a thick, lush carpet, fine fescue takes shade, and perennial ryegrass withstands heavy foot traffic, so together they make a formidable team. Moreover, quick-sprouting fine fescue gives protective cover to the slow-out-of-the-gate Kentucky bluegrass.

Planting grass seed

Once the soil is prepared, spread the grass seed. Small batches can be sown by hand, but a handheld spreader will distribute the seed more evenly. Larger areas can be done with a drop spreader, which deposits the seed beneath it, or a broadcast spreader, which fans the seed out in a circular motion.

Once you’ve spread the seed, use a garden rake to lightly work the seed no more than 1/4-inch into the soil. If sowing an entire lawn, consider renting a lawn roller, which will flatten the soil and ensure better seed-to-soil contact.

After that, mulch with straw or a biodegradable seed-starter made with paper, an adhering agent and seed-starting fertilizer. Mulch helps discourage bird browsing while keeping seeds moist for germination.

Watering grass seed

Although mulch helps prevent the sun from baking the seedbed, you still need to water. The key is to keep seeds (and later tender seedlings) moist but not soggy. A mulched bed needs daily watering in the morning. An unmulched bed needs two or three light waterings each day.

Grass seed germination: What to do when grass sprouts

Grass seed germination takes from five days to three weeks, depending on the species. After grass seedlings begin to grow, you can taper off watering. Transition gradually, going from daily to every other day to every three or four days and finally to weekly.

Grass can take a couple of months to become established, and an entire growing season to be ready for extended foot traffic. When seedlings are up about an inch, check to see if there are any bare spots that need to be re-seeded. You can begin mowing when new grass is about three inches tall — a milestone that might not be met until spring.

Article source here: Tips for Planting Grass Seed in Fall

What Happens To Grass During the Winter?

Yay! Cold mornings and raked leaves means lawn chores are finally over!

Or not.

If you’ve got scraggly turf or bare spots in your lawn, dormant seeding might be the ticket to producing a lush lawn next year, while reducing the headache of fighting spring weeds.

Does Grass Grow in Winter?

It depends on where you live. If temperatures drop below 40 F, grass becomes dormant and doesn’t grow much, if at all. That means no mowing until spring.

Even if you live in a place that rarely experiences a hard frost — say, much of Florida — your grass will probably go into some degree of dormancy. It will grow, but more slowly, and it might not look as vibrant as it does when it’s warmer.

Can Grass Seed Survive Winter?

Yes, it often does. Spreading seed in late fall or early winter is called dormant seeding because it will not sprout until spring, especially if it’s covered with snow.

“Adding grass seed to the ground in late fall is best for when you want to reseed bare soil areas or thicken up a thin lawn,” says TurfMutt Foundation President Kris Kiser. “[But] if your lawn is already lush and dense, the grass seed you add has no way to get into the soil to germinate and grow in the spring.”

There’s one downside to dormant seeding: If the weather warms long enough for the grass to germinate, then freezes again, the new sprouts may not survive. Typically, grass needs a consistent soil temperature in the mid-50s F to germinate and grow, or daytime air temperatures in the 60s F and 70s F. If it does sprout and freeze, you will need to reseed the area.

If you live in an especially warm climate, like South Florida, regular seeding in spring and early summer often is a better option.

Which Grass Seed to Pick for Winter Seeding

Temperature, rainfall, humidity, sunlight, shade, soil composition and maintenance expectations all factor in when choosing which grass to plant. So it’s good to contact your local county extension office for the best advice for your locale. Also, check your U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone map to determine what kinds of grass and other plants grow best in your area.

In general, there are cool-season grasses for Northern and higher-elevation climates, and warm-season grasses for Southern and other warmer climates.

Common cool-season grasses include:

• Kentucky bluegrass;
• Fine fescue;
• Tall fescue;
• Perennial ryegrass.

These grasses will germinate earlier in cold soils, so they’ll develop faster than seeds sown in spring. That is particularly helpful for thickening lawns before weeds start to grow. It also gives grass an advantage in densely shaded areas, because it can get established before spring foliage emerges.

Common warm-season grasses include:

• Bermudagrass (which also has high salt tolerance);
• Buffalograss;
• Blue grama;
• Zoysiagrass.

If you live in a middle climate, Kiser suggests a blend of warm and cold-season grasses.

Dormant Seeding Tips

Dormant seeding is typically done once temperatures are low enough to prevent germination until spring. In cooler regions, this means sometime in October or November, after the last of the leaves have been raked up. Ideally, the ground will not be frozen, just cold enough to prevent sprouting.

• Think about moisture. “Check the weather forecast and try to sow seeds shortly before a snowstorm or heavy rain,” says Kiser.
• Remove excess yard waste. “The most important thing to keep in mind is that you are trying to achieve soil to seed contact,” he says. “So if you are adding seed to a lawn with heavy thatch, this needs to be raked away.”
• Spread the seeds evenly by hand. If you have a large area to cover, try a seeder or spreader. “Try not to place the seeds to close together so seedlings do not have to fight for resources,” Kiser says.
• Follow the instructions on the seed bag.

Over the winter, freezing and thawing will help the seeds work into the soil. You’ll know if it worked by mid- to late-spring. At that point, if it’s looking a little thin, add more seed.

Winter Lawn Care Tips

Mostly, from here on out it’s all about sitting back and enjoying the winter season. Just two more bits of advice:

• Avoid putting snow melting and rock salt products on the lawn. Instead, opt for plant-friendly de-icing products.
• Avoid walking on your lawn too much in the winter, which can damage frozen grass. “Usually only the top part of the grass blade will snap off and the rest of the grass will be fine,” says Kiser. “But steps on a brittle lawn can leave an unsightly look.”

Article source here: What Happens To Grass During the Winter?

Tips for Measuring a Chainsaw Bar and Chain

Chainsaws are versatile tools, great for light pruning, cutting up firewood and more. With all that use, eventually you’ll need to replace your chainsaw bar or chain. But before you buy, know the exact size of each. “Using the wrong size bar or chain can damage the chainsaw and injure the chainsaw operator,” says Vince Christofora of Woodstock Hardware.

Read on to learn how to measure your chainsaw’s bar and chain. It’s not hard to do and saves time at the hardware store. “Don’t bring the dirty, sawdust- and oil-clumped, gas exhaust-smelling chainsaw into the store and put it up on the counter and ask for help,” Chirstofora says. “Not a good way to start things off!”

How To Measure a Chainsaw Bar

Chainsaws are sold in even-numbered lengths, based the length of the chainsaw bar. Sometimes called a chainsaw blade, the chainsaw bar is the metal “arm” that holds and supports the chain during cutting. So when you’re buying a 16-inch chainsaw, you’re buying one with a 16-inch bar.

You can measure a chainsaw bar two ways. The most common, Christofora says, is the effective cutting length. That’s the distance from the tip of the bar to the front of the chainsaw body, where the bar disappears into the saw.

To measure a chainsaw’s effective cutting length (or simply, “length”):

1. Place a tape measure at the very tip of the bar.
2. Measure straight back to the point where the bar enters the chainsaw body.
3. Round that measurement up to the nearest even number.

Because chainsaws are only sold in even numbers, you’ll need to round up odd numbers and fractions. A saw with a 15-inch effective cutting length is a 16-inch chainsaw. If you measure 18-3/4-in., it’s a 20-inch saw.

The true bar length is a second, less commonly used measurement. If you need this to get a perfect fit for your replacement bar, here’s how to do it:

1. Loosen the bolts that hold the bar to the chainsaw body.
2. Remove the bar and place it on a flat surface.
3. Measure the bar, end to end.

The chainsaw true bar length is a precise measurement. Don’t round this number up.

How to determine a chainsaw bar groove gauge

If you’re buying a new chainsaw bar, Christofora says you may also need to know the gauge of the bar groove. Here’s how to find it:

1. Gather a penny, dime and quarter.
2. Insert the coins into the bar groove one at a time.
3. Determine which coin best fits into the groove.

“For close approximations, you can use a quarter for .063 inch, a dime for .058 inch and a penny for .043 inch,” Christofora says. Another option: Purchase an inexpensive gauge, which helps you measure chain pitch, chain gauge and file size, too.

How To Measure a Chainsaw Chain

Your best bet when purchasing a new chainsaw chain? Search for a replacement based on your chainsaw’s manufacturer and model number.

It pays to be precise here, Christofora says. “Most times when a customer comes into the store they just try to buy a chain the same length.” he says. “But chains, even the same length, vary by chainsaw manufacturer.” If you know the manufacturer and model number, you can cross-reference it with the information listed on the chainsaw chain packaging.

It doesn’t hurt to write or engrave the numbers on the chain saw bar, near the saw’s body, too. They reflect the chain pitch, the number of driver links and the chain link gauge. If you need these numbers and can’t locate them, or if they’ve worn off, you can measure each ofto determine its size.

How to measure the chain pitch

The chain pitch refers to the distance between the chain’s links. Here’s how to measure it.

1. Using a ruler or measuring tape, measure the distance between three of the rivets on your chain.
2. Divide that measurement by two. The resulting figure is your chain pitch.

Common chain pitches include 1/4-in., .325-in., 3/8-in. and .404-in.

How to measure the driver links

Determining the number of driver links is as easy as counting the links on your chain.

1. Identify the driver chain links. They’re small bumps on the inside of the chain.
2. Count the number of links on the chain.

How to measure the chain link gauge

Chain link gauge is the thickness of the drive links. When your chain link gauge matches the gauge of your chainsaw bar, the chain fits snugly. You can use a caliper or an inexpensive multi-purpose gauge to measure this.

1. Place your caliper or gauge along the groove where the chain fits into the bar.
2. Write down the reading on your caliper or gauge.

Common drive link gauges are .043-in., .050-in., .058-in. and .063-in.

Chainsaw Sizing Guide

Having the right size chainsaw for the job makes cutting easier and safer.

Sizes often vary according to the type of chainsaw, each good for different jobs. The most common chainsaw bar sizes are 12 to 20 inches, but they come in sizes as large as 72 inches, typically for professionals. The longer the bar, the heavier the chainsaw.

When choosing the right chainsaw size for the job, it’s best to have a chainsaw bar at least two inches longer than the thickness of the item that you’re cutting. Certain chainsaw sizes are best suited for different types of activities:

• Gas-powered chainsaws start at 16 to 18 inches, and go up to as large as 72 inches. The 16- to 18-inch chainsaws are best for felling medium trees, while chainsaws with a 20-inch or larger bar are suitable for large trees or cutting firewood.
• Electric chainsaws tend to be smaller, usually 14 to 16 inches. Use the 14-inch saws for felling small trees, and 16-inchers for medium trees.
• Battery-operated saws are 16 to 18 inches, good for bringing down medium trees.
• Small battery-operated six- to nine-inch chainsaws also exist, including the Milwaukee M12 Fuel Hatchet Six-Inch Pruning Saw. Use these for pruning small limbs.

Article source here: Tips for Measuring a Chainsaw Bar and Chain

10 Best Toilet Seats of 2021

Best Overall: American Standard Slow-Close

No more slammed toilet seats. The slow-close “no slam” hinge of the American Standard 5321A65CT.020 makes it a great replacement option. It is 18.69-in. long by 14.06 in.-wide and fits most conventional elongated toilets. There are several reasons why it’s one of the most popular options on Amazon.

“This seat is perfect,” one Amazon reviewer writes. “I was getting tired of the slamming of the seat that came with the new toilet. This works perfect. Goes down nice and slow. No more slamming. Love it!”

Shop Now

Article source here: 10 Best Toilet Seats of 2021

When to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses

Miscanthus grass

It’s easy to know when to cut back ornamental grass once you know the basics. It’s far more simple than the mowing, watering and fertilizing that may come to mind when thinking about traditional lawns. With ornamental grass, maintenance is far less intensive. Still, you can take actions to make sure your ornamental grasses sail into fall and make it through winter looking sharp.

Watering and Fertilizing Ornamental Grasses

“Many homeowners like ornamental grasses because they are drought tolerant and are rarely bothered by pests,” says Iowa landscape designer Dori Hein. “They seldom need fertilizing either. Fertilizing ornamental grasses may actually cause them to flop over.”

But low maintenance does not equate to no maintenance. “Summer is the best time to keep an eye on watering needs, especially during the plant’s first year while it’s establishing roots,” Dori says. “I like to put down a natural mulch, too, because it mimics natural conditions and feeds the plants as it breaks down. Just don’t put the mulch up against the plant’s base because it can cause the crown to rot.”

When to Cut Back and Divide Ornamental Grasses

Once established, ornamental grasses have few needs. “The big thing with grasses is cutting them back once a year and dividing them once every four or five years,” Dori says.

Most gardeners leave their native grasses in place for winter interest and to provide food for birds. The time when you should cut back ornamental grasses is in late winter or early spring. Cut them back to within a few inches of the ground. “Cut back before the new shoots grow up through the old,” Dori adds, “or you’ll wind up cutting off the new growth, too.” In areas where wildfires are a seasonal concern, cut back grasses in fall to lessen the threat of fire.

You’ll know it’s time to divide grasses when a ring of living grass surrounds a dead center. “It’s easier to divide most grasses when they are still short from their post-winter haircut so there’s no foliage to get in the way,” Dori says. This is also the best time to divide grasses that flower in late summer and fall. Use a sharp spade or root saw and separate the living portion of the grass into smaller sections. Aim for sections that are a little bit bigger than a softball. Replant the sections, water well and enjoy through the seasons.

Ornamental Grass Benefits

Don’t miss out on these ornamental grass perks for your landscape.

• Screen unsightly utilities and other items around the yard.
• Add some privacy by rimming a patio with tall ornamental grasses.
• Soften the harsher look of a structure, fence or corner.
• Create a stage for plants to pop against the grassy backdrop.
• Offer ambiance with the relaxing sights and sounds of grasses swaying in the wind.

Article source here: When to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses

If You See a Little Door in an Old House, This is What it is For

For those of us that live in old houses—from before the 1950s—there are design quirks that act as conversation starters. Even though we’re scratching our heads at some old home features, they were perfectly functional 75 years ago. But those details don’t make the most sense now. There’s no need to have a coal door or an icebox door today, right?

If you have a small door next to your closet, it had a purpose in the ’50s and ’60s. Here’s what those little doors in old houses were for!

What People Think the Doors For

If you have a mini door next to a closet in the hallways, you can rest easy, because it isn’t for someone to hide in. The doors are usually narrow, about 12 inches in width and less than half the height of a standard closet. They’ve got some depth to them, too, usually about three feet.

Often, most people assume this door conceals a luggage closet. Keeping it next to a closet would be logical. But the space seems a little tight for a large suitcase, especially since old suitcases didn’t have wheels. Other popular guesses include linen storage, or space for an ironing board.

If you’re about to tackle reorganizing your closet, here are some storage solutions for small spaces.

The Real Purpose of Little Doors

In some old houses, the little doors are designated storage space for a card table! These small spaces were meant to keep card tables—which almost everyone had in the 1950s—tucked away neat and tidy until you had company over.

As with some of the household designs mentioned before, this might not make much sense to us now, especially when those of us in the Midwest have basements that are perfect for storage. Keep in mind that card games were a prime source of entertainment and socializing in the ’50s, and it would’ve made since to be able to stow a card table in a hall closet.

Article source here: If You See a Little Door in an Old House, This is What it is For