Step Up Your Game With a DIY Folding Step Stool

Cut your pieces

On the miter saw and/or table saw, cut the top step (A), all four legs (B), the guides (C), ad the bottom crossbrace (E). Set aside everything but the legs (B) until later.

Shape the ends of the legs

Using a compass with a pencil, draw 1-1/2-inch diameter half-circles at the bottom of each leg (B) to match the 1/2-inch width of the leg.

Use a disc or belt sander with a coarse-grit sandpaper (80 or 100-grit) to shape the ends of the legs by sanding up to the marked pencil lines for your arch. Once you have sanded to the line, work your way up to 220-grit sandpaper for a smoother finish.

Drill holes in the legs and Guide rails

Use a drill press to drill:

• Hole 1: Drill a 1/4-inch hole through each leg, in the middle of the 14-inch-long leg, and centered from side to side in all four legs (B).
• Hole 2: With the first hole drilled, separate the legs (B) into two inside and two outside legs. On the outside legs, use a Forstner bit to drill 5/8-inch x 1/2-inch-deep holes, centered 3/4-inch from the top, on the side of the legs that will face inward. Then, drill a 1/4-inch hole all the way through the leg from the center of the 5/8-inch hole. The 5/8-inch x 1/2-inch-deep holes countersink the nylon lock nut and allow the legs to collapse into each other without obstruction.
• Hole 3: On the inside legs (B), use a Forstner bit to drill a 3/4-inch wide holes through the legs. Center these 1-1/2-inch down from the top of the leg and centered side-to-side.
• Hole 4: On the inside legs (B), use a Forstner bit to drill a 1/2-inch wide hole through the legs. Center these 2-3/4-inch up from the bottom of the leg and centered side-to-side.
• Hole 5: On the guide rails (C), drill a 1/4-inch hole through the guide rail, 1-inch in from the side and centered top-to-bottom.

Round over the edges

Using a router table or a router equipped with a 1/4-inch round-over bit, round over all the edges of the step (A) and all four legs (B). Be sure to use clamps to hold the pieces while making your passes with the router.

With all the parts machined, sand all the components to 220 grit and apply a couple of coats of a wood finish of your choice. Allow the finish to dry before moving on to assembly.

Connect the inside legs

Spread wood glue in hole 3 at the top of each inside leg (B). Insert the ends of the 3/4-in. dowel cross brace (D) and tap the legs on with a rubber mallet until D is fully seated.

Set the 1-1/4-in.-square cross brace (E) between the bottoms of the legs, with its bottom edge 2-1/8 in. up from the bottom of the legs. To keep the legs parallel while you drill, clamp a scrap the same length as the cross brace (E) between them at mid-height. Check for square.

Using hole 4 in each leg as a guide, drill a 1/2-in. hole about 1 in. deep into the center of each end of the cross brace (E). Glue 1/2-in. dowels, cut longer than the holes are deep, and drive them through the legs with a mallet until they bottom out in the cross brace (E).

Lock each of the four joints with a single brad nail through the leg into the dowel. Trim the protruding ends of all the dowels flush with a pull saw.

Attach the guide rails

Flip the top step (A) upside down. Position the guide rails (C) 1/2-in. in from each side and centered front to back, leaving 1-1/2-in. at the front and back. Trace around each rail.

Drill two 1/4-in. holes, 3/4-in. deep, centered on each outline. Keep the bit plumb when drilling (or drill at the drill press).

Insert dowel centers in the holes. Align each rail with its outline and press down to mark the hole locations. Drill matching 1/4-in. holes in the rails, about 7/8-in. deep. That’s slightly deeper than the dowel needs, which leaves room for glue.

Glue and insert 1/4-in x 1-1/2-in. dowels and secure the guide rails (C) to the step (A).

Connect the outside and inside legs

Thread 1/4-inch x 3-1/2-inch carriage bolts through hole 1 in the center of the legs to connect an outside leg to the outside of each of the connected inside legs. Put a washer between each pair of legs and secure with a nylon lock nut on the inside of the inside legs.

Connect the legs and step

Connect the two outside legs (B) to the sides of the guide rails (C) by threading 1/4-inch x 2-1/2-inch pan head screws through hole 5 in the guide rails and through hole 2 on the outside legs. Use a washer on the outside of the guide rails and pliers to hold the nylon lock nuts while you tighten them into the 5/8-inch countersunk holes.

Attach upholstery strap

The strap acts as a stop, limiting how far the legs can open. Wrap one end of an upholstery strap around the middle of the top cross brace (D) and staple it in place with a narrow-crown stapler. Open the stool until the seat sits level, then pull the strap snug and staple the other end centered on the underside of the top step (A). Use several 1/2-in. staples at each end so the strap holds securely.

FAQ

How wide should a step stool be?

A step stool should be about 11 to 16-in. wide to fit both feet comfortably side by side. For a portable or compact version, stay toward the narrow end of that range.

How tall should a step stool be?

A single-step stool should be 6 to 9-in. tall. That’s a good height for reaching into a truck bed, helping kids reach a tall bathroom sink, or getting to the top pantry shelves.

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