Build Your Own Round Storage Ottoman from Scratch

Cut the Circles and hoops

Use a router equipped with a circle cutting jig to cut the circles (A and B) and hoops (C and D) from the cut list above. Cut each circle in three to four passes to avoid overheating the router and the bit and keep the circles accurate and clean.

Then move on to cutting the 1×2 framing members for the storage section (E), lid (F), and toe (G) of the ottoman at the miter saw.

Nail together the sections

Use wood glue and a staple gun with 1-1/2-in. narrow crown staples to secure the toe, storage, and lid sections together, as shown in the drawing above. Ensure the framing members (E, F, G) are uniformly spaced and flush to the outside edge of the hoop (C, D) or circle (A, B) they correspond with. Don’t worry if any of your hoops end up narrower than the 1×2, like mine did. Just ensure that the outside edges are flush. Clean up any glue squeeze out with a damp shop rag.

Optional: Blocking was added to the toe section in the form of a scrap 1×2 “X”. The blocking pieces are the exact height of the small hop (D) when the toe is assembled and are placed there so when attaching the toe to the storage section, I don’t get wood glue squeeze-out all over the toe veneer.

Rip the bending plywood

On the table saw, rip four strips of bending plywood (aka bending plywood) to the finished widths of the stapled-together toe, storage (interior and exterior), and lid sections of your ottoman. Don’t worry about cutting the strips to length just yet.

Staple bending plywood to each section

Use clamps to dry-fit the bending plywood around the outside of the toe and lid sections of your ottoman. And, around both the outside and inside of the storage section.  As you clamp it around each form, mark and cut the bending plywood length at the miter saw. It may still be a little long when you get to securing the piece, but simply trim it with a pullsaw. Use glue and 1-1/2-in. narrow crown staples to secure the bending plywood to the framing.

Apply the walnut veneer

Sand the bending plywood to ensure it is smooth and flush with the top and bottom of the toe section of the ottoman, and clean it thoroughly to remove dust. Use contact cement to attach the walnut veneer to the base. Spray generously to both the back of the veneer and the bending plywood surface, and allow a few minutes for the contact cement to set up before attaching it.

Use a laminate roller or smooth wood block to apply even pressure to the veneer to ensure it is smooth and adheres. Then, trim any excess with a sharp utility knife or file so that it is flush with the edge of the small circle (B) and hoop (D) of the toe. Lightly sand the face of the veneer to remove any cement adhesive that may have found its way onto it.

Attach the toe to the storage section

Use a caliper or tape measure to center the toe section on the bottom of the storage section. Secure them together using wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails through the bottom circle (A) of the storage section into the small hoop (D) and blocking of the toe.

Attach foam to the lid

Trace the lid’s top circle (A) onto the foam with a permanent marker. Use a reciprocating electric meat carving knife to cut the foam. Attach the cut foam to the lid with spray adhesive. Spray the spray adhesive on both the bottom of the foam and the top of the lid. Be sure to allow the adhesive time to set up before attaching the foam.

Attach batting to lid and storage section

The batting should be folded over two to three inches on the underside of the lid. Dry fit it and cut it. Lightly spray the attached foam with spray adhesive, center the batting on it, and staple it into place with the narrow crown stapler and 1/2-in. staples. Cut excess batting as needed.

Move on to attaching the batting to the storage section. Once again, dry-fit the batting around the section and cut it. You should staple it around the large circle (A) at the bottom of the storage section, then fold it over the top and staple it into the storage cavity about two inches down the interior wall. Cut excess batting as needed. To close the middle section seam, create a neat fold and secure it in place with CA glue.

Cover with upholstery fabric

Cover the lid and the storage section with upholstery fabric. Cut the fabric slightly larger than the batting. Use the crown stapler to secure it, completely covering the batting on the underside of the lid and along the bottom of the storage section. The fabric inside the storage cavity should be stapled and treated with Fray Check or the edge folded over to prevent unraveling as you move items in and out over time.

To create the seam, cut the fabric so that it overlaps itself on the storage section cylinder by two or three inches. Fold it over tightly and use CA glue to hold the seam in place. When stapling around a circular item, be careful not to pull the fabric, as this can distort the pattern.

Make indexing circle for lid

For the lid to close properly and index with the storage section of the ottoman, rout a solid wood circle that will be attached to the underside of the lid. We chose walnut because it also functions as a tabletop in certain instances.

The walnut circle must fit snugly within the top hoop (C) of the storage section’s finished inner dimensions, including the bending plywood, batting, and fabric. Adjust the diameter of this circle according to the thickness of your materials. Our circle had a diameter of 16-5/8-in.

Glue and clamp a panel of 3/4-in. thick boards so that it is slightly wider than the diameter of the circle. Next, rout it using the router and the circle cutting jig as you did with all the other circles and hoops. Sand the face and edges so they are smooth and free of glue residue.

Use two-inch brad nails to secure the walnut circle to the underside of the lid. If the lid does not feel secure, add a 1-1/4-in. screw in the center divot made by the fastener used with the circle cutting jig.

Finishing touches

Fill any holes in the interior of the storage compartment and indexing circle with wood filler. Apply a wipe-on finish to the toe veneer and walnut indexing circle and let it dry.

FAQ

Can I sit on a storage ottoman?

Yes, you can sit on a storage ottoman. Make sure that you sit still, as some ottomans, such as this one, do not have attached lids.

How tall should an ottoman be compared to a couch?

The height of your ottoman should match or be slightly lower (by an inch or two) than the seat height of your couch.

What fabric is best for ottomans?

For this project, I suggest using upholstery-grade fabric without a pattern unless you have prior experience covering circular objects.

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