I’m a New Homeowner—Here’s What I’m Shopping During The Home Depot’s Spring Black Friday Sale

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Power Tools

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Itching to learn a new skill or finally check off those bigger projects on your to-do list? The right tools make any home improvement task easier. Find basics, like drills and sanders, as well as specialized items. I have my eye on cordless tools that let you work anywhere—no outlet required.

Top Gear:

• Milwaukee 18-volt cordless combo kit: Starting from scratch? This 9-piece tool set has nearly everything you need to tackle numerous home projects. Get a drill, impact driver, impact wrench, multi-tool, blower, grinder, reciprocal saw, circular saw and work light, plus two batteries, a charger and a tool bag. Whew! It’s on sale for just $599, saving you 45%.
• Dewalt ATOMIC 20-volt cordless compact hammer drill: This heavy-duty hammer drill makes tough projects a breeze, as it’s designed to punch into hard surfaces like concrete and brick. Save $50 on this all-in-one set, which includes a drill, battery, charger and carrying bag. The short head lets you work in tight spaces, while smart features like an LED work light make any task easier.
• RYOBI 18-volt cordless planer: If you’re getting into woodworking, a planer is a must-have tool for creating even boards. This cordless option is 42% off and comes with a dust bag.

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Lawn Mowers

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A lush, green summer lawn starts in the spring. Now is the time to think about aerating, fertilizing, watering and—once the grass gets green—mowing. If your old mower has seen better days or you want a snazzy new tool with timesaving features, there’s no better time to buy. Find riding mowers, self-propelled options and top-of-the-line electric cutters.

Top Gear:

• RYOBI 40-volt cordless self-propelled lawn mower: Skip the hassle of gas with this all-electric mower. On sale for $349, this machine is ideal for small yards and provides up to 40 minutes of run time on a single charge.
• Milwaukee M18 cordless 21-inch self-propelled mower: This electric mower has many of the same features as gas-powered cutters—without the headache. The amply sized deck makes cutting up to 1/2 an acre easy. It runs on two batteries for superior power and includes seven height adjustment options. Save $100 on a bundle that includes the mower, batteries and charger.
• Cub Cadet Ultima 42-inch gas zero-turn riding lawn mower: Our lawn care expert named this the best zero-turn mower for good reason. It has a powerful Kawasaki engine, adjustable steering and large cutting deck that makes it a great pick for large yards. And, during spring Black Friday, it’s $200 off.

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Garden Tools

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I’ll admit: I fell behind on fall cleanup this year. If your gardens are also a mess of wet leaves, twigs and spent perennials, you’ll want to stock up on tools that make an unpleasant task a little easier. And, if your gardens are already in tip-top shape, think ahead to summer ailments by stocking up on things like weed pullers or hoses.

Top Gear:

• Husky poly wheelbarrow: A wheelbarrow was one of the most essential tools we bought after closing on our house. And this Husky option is a sturdy, no-fuss solution for transporting soil, mulch, yard debris, logs—you name it. While the $10 savings isn’t overly significant, this tool will definitely ease wear and tear on your body!
• Milwaukee 18-volt cordless handheld blower: Minimize yard debris quickly and quietly. This battery-powered blower is $50 off, and it’s the ultimate yard cleanup companion. Reach full throttle in just one second—leaves and twigs don’t stand a chance.
• Vigoro 20-inch wine barrel planters: While not technically a tool, these rustic pots will take your flower game to the next level. Fill them with seasonal annuals for a patio showstopper you can enjoy all summer long. Right now they’re buy-one-get-one free.

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Patio Furniture

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You work hard in your yard—carve out time to enjoy it, too! Select patio furniture is on sale for the spring Black Friday sale, and I’m stocking up on all the essentials for entertaining and lounging.

Top Gear:

• Laurel Oaks 7-piece patio dining set: Gather ’round with friends and family. This patio dining set features four stationary chairs, two swivel chairs and a five-foot table, providing plenty of space for hosting moderately sized gatherings. It’s on sale for just $499, saving you nearly 200 bucks.
• Laurel Oaks 4-piece patio conversation set: Want to match your dining table? This seating set comes with a loveseat, two lounge chairs and a coffee table. There’s nothing better than enjoying a coffee outside in the morning or noshing on a midnight snack under the stars, and this set gives you the perfect spot to relax. Plus, it’s available for a whopping 60% off.
• Hampton Bay 11-foot solar LED offset patio umbrella: Enjoy your outdoor space 24/7. This extra-large patio umbrella provides plenty of coverage during the day, while solar LED lights kick in once the sun goes down. Plus, right now, you’ll save $100 off the list price.

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Appliances

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If you missed out on Presidents Day appliance sales, you’re in luck. Spring Black Friday has equally deep discounts on refrigerators, washers and dryers, dishwashers, ranges and other major appliances.

Top Gear:

• Frigidaire 5-burner electric range: Take over 30% off this top-rated electric range. It’s loaded with almost every cooking mode you could want, including air-frying.
• GE Front Control tall tub dishwasher: A tall tub dishwasher has a larger internal capacity without taking up more external space. This makes it a great option for big families or frequent hosts—and right now, you can save over $420 on this GE model.
• Samsung French door refrigerator: We’ve been eyeing a fridge replacement since the day we moved in, and this French door option is too good of a deal to pass up. Take over $900 off the list price, then enjoy smart features like a 26-cubic foot capacity, ice and water dispensers and energy use monitoring.

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Storage and Organization

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There’s a reason it’s called spring cleaning. The change in seasons brings a fresh opportunity to get organized before the busy summer months. I’m eyeing gear for outdoor spaces, like a garage and shed.

Top Gear:

• Gorilla 3-step compact steel step stool: You’ll use this handy step stool to change lightbulbs, reach the back crevices of cabinets and dust off ceiling fans. This slim Gorilla option automatically locks into place and supports up to 225 pounds. It’s on sale for just under $20, saving you over 50%.
• Husky freestanding garage cabinet: Out of sight, out of mind and still organized. Banish visual clutter with this smart storage cabinet that safely stows all your garage essentials, like charcoal, seasonal toys and birdseed. Each adjustable shelf holds a whopping 150 pounds. Snag one (or a few!) for 25% off.
• HDX 27-gallon tough storage tote: When we moved, everything we owned went into a storage tote. They’re more durable than moving boxes and, while an initial investment, are easy to repurpose for storage once you’re settled. These totes are only $1 off, but the 27-gallon capacity holds a lot and the clear design lets you see everything inside.

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Plants and Landscaping

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Beautify your yard on a budget. You’ll want to head to your local Home Depot store for many of these deals, but they’re too good to miss!

• Miracle Gro garden soil: If you’re planting annuals or assembling your own hanging baskets, don’t sleep on this epic soil deal. Snag five .75-cubic-foot bags for just $10!
• Scott’s EarthGro wood mulch: Mulch deteriorates over time. So, if your garden beds are looking a little sad, replenish them with red, black or brown mulch. These 1.5-cubic-foot bags are also on sale five for $10.
• Holland Pavers: Whether you’re putting in a new patio or repairing an old one, these versatile pavers are a steal. They’re on sale for 4/$1—saving you 63%!

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What Is Passive Solar Design?

Passive solar design is nothing new — it has probably been around as long as people have been building houses — and it has nothing to do with solar panels. It’s all about creating a comfortable space by optimizing the use of the sun’s energy.

As solar installer Ben Zook explains: “Any system that uses a mechanical pump, an inverter, or other electrical conversion device is not truly ‘passive.’ That means that the only remaining way to have a truly passive solar system is by using the greenhouse effect… the same as an actual greenhouse!”

The transparent walls of a greenhouse allow radiation from the sun to provide indoor climate control, and while that’s a well-known example of passive solar design, it isn’t the only one. I sought help from a panel of home efficiency experts to get a clear idea of what defines passive solar design and how to use it effectively to stay comfortable and save energy.

What Is Passive Solar?

According to environmentalist Aidan Charron: “Passive solar refers to the use of natural sunlight to heat and light your home without using solar panels or arrays or anything mechanical. Instead, you use natural sunlight and exposure to the sun itself to organically capture heat and light inside your home. It’s achieved through clever design features and pre-planning.”

Elements of Passive Solar Design

We all use passive solar already, says Zook. “Imagine living without any sunlight, and you might understand how we ALL use sunlight. Most of it is passive, in one form or another.” When it comes to optimizing the use of solar energy in construction, builders use five strategies:

Orientation

The main wall of the building should be facing in the direction of the sun to maximize heat absorption. In the Northern Hemisphere, this means that it should face in a southerly direction and avoid, as much as possible, trees and landforms that block the sun.

Thermal mass

The materials you use to construct the building should be able to absorb heat and sunlight. Materials such as concrete, brick and stone — and even water stored in barrels — are very effective. They can absorb a lot of heat during the day and release it at night to help keep the building warm. “How well thermal mass works depends on its bulk, thickness, and where it is placed,” advises underfloor heating expert Gordon Chalk. “For it to work best, it needs to be either connected to a warm place or put in full sunlight.”

Windows/glazing

Windows that face south help maximize solar exposure. High-performance windows with low-E treatments and gas fills are best, says Chalk, because they help retain heat. As he says: “Picking windows is important! For windows facing south, choose SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) numbers that are high to get the most heat from the sun. To help keep your home cooler in the summer, think about lowering the SHGC of windows that face east and west.”

Insulation

Insulation is a no-brainer. It helps maximize heat retention during the day and minimize heat loss at night. “Focus on continuous insulation to cut down on thermal bridging, which are spots where heat can easily leave,” says Chalk. “Because they often have weak spots, pay extra attention to the areas around doors and windows.”

Shade and ventilation

You need to optimize the use of shade and ventilation if you want your house to stay cool in the summer. Chalk advises using overhangs, awnings, trees, and even well-planned planting to help block the sun. Adjustable shade is best. “When curtains are pulled back in the winter, they let more light in. In the winter, deciduous trees lose their leaves, and in the summer, they provide shade, which lets the sun shine on the building.” It’s also advantageous to deploy fans throughout the house to keep air circulating.

Types of Passive Solar

Builders can approach passive solar design in four ways:

Direct gain

This is the most popular passive solar technique. The most obvious example is orienting windows toward the sun, thereby allowing the sun’s radiation to enter the living space directly and heat up the thermal mass in the walls and floor. The downside is that direct gain techniques, when not used correctly, cause glare and burning, so they need to be used in conjunction with shading solutions.

Indirect gain

The most common indirect gain mechanism is called a trombe wall, which is a dark-glazed wall, usually eight to 16 inches thick, placed behind a glass barrier with a 3/4-inch separation. “The wall that gets hot from the sun moves the heat into the sitting area,” explains Chalk. “The more controlled way that trombone walls let heat out is not possible with direct gain systems. On top of that, they protect against pretty big changes in temperature.”

Isolated gain

Charron explains: “Isolated gain is when the heat hits a sun room or even a greenhouse and then radiates into any adjoining rooms through vents or internal windows.” One of the advantages of this technique is that you can use it on an existing structure that hasn’t already been optimized for solar gain.

Roofing

So far, we’ve focused on walls, but roofer Brian Davis adds this: “Roofing is a key element of passive solar design, playing a crucial role in regulating heat absorption and reflection…Lighter-colored roofs reflect sunlight, reducing heat absorption and keeping homes cooler, while darker roofs retain warmth to help with heating.”

Does Passive Solar Really Save Money on Utilities?

Yes. All the experts I interviewed would agree with this assessment from Zook: “It can and usually does. Especially when done right, passive solar design will save you money on utilities.” According to Davis, even installing a new roof can cut energy costs by 10 to 15 percent.

Passive Solar Pros and Cons

Pros

• Energy savings
• Low maintenance
• Eco-friendly
• Improved comfort

Cons

• Dependent on climate
• Temperature fluctuations that can be difficult to control
• Design complexity leading to high up-front costs
• Usually requires additional active heating

FAQ

What is the difference between passive and active solar energy?

Passive solar design relies on building placement, materials and the surrounding landscape while active solar is concerned with techniques for converting sunlight into energy. Chalk puts it this way: “Active solar is more about technology, while passive solar is more about how it is set up.” Solar panels passively collect sunlight, but because they convert it to electricity, they are part of an active energy system.

Is passive solar heating efficient?

“It can be if you design your home to maximize sunlight capture and have a system to block the sunlight when it gets too warm,” says Charron. “It’s a smart way to naturally make our homes more energy smart.” All panel members agreed.

Is passive solar better for heating or cooling?

Generally, passive solar is better for heating, but if you use shade and ventilation properly, it can also help keep your house cool. One effective cooling technique, according to Chalk, is to open windows at night to reduce thermal mass.

About the Experts

• Ben Zook is the owner and NABCEP Certified Master Electrician at Belmont Solar. He specializes in solar installation, including grid-tied, off-grid, and solar battery backup systems.
• Brian Davis is the AIA, LEED AP, GRP, and Technical Support Director at Brava Roof Tile.
• Gordon Chalk is the managing director at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions LTD, based in the UK.
• Aidan Charron is the Associate Director of Earthday.org and is a global leader of the Planet vs Plastics campaign.

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Take Your Lawn to the Next Level With the Coolest New Shrubs

Fire Ball Seedless® Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

Everyone loves the fiery red intensity of the foliage in fall, but burning bush is considered a pest in some areas. Enter Fire Ball Seedless, a new cultivar that is seedless, sterile and, most importantly, non-invasive. Developed by the Mountain Horticultural Crops Research Station in North Carolina, this burning bush cultivar is part of the Proven Winners® ColorChoice® collection. It has the durability and infernal-red autumnal foliage of burning bush without the risk of it spreading into wild areas and out-competing native plants.

Named 2025 Professional’s Choice Green Thumb award winner, Fireball grows 5 to 6 feet tall and wide and makes a fine screen or backdrop for a mixed border. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Paisley Pup® Doghobble (Leucothoe fontanesiana)

This underappreciated species goes by several names, including drooping leucothoe, fetterbush and mountain doghobble. Whatever you call it, you’ll appreciate this broadleaf evergreen for its handsome foliage and the array of green, cream, white, bronze and yellow hues. And as if that weren’t enough, it also features arching stems holding racemes of fragrant white flowers to delight both people and pollinators alike.

Paisley Pup is a low-growing cultivar, just 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, so it can be used as a midrange plant in a mixed bed. It is shade-tolerant and deer-resistant. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Oso Easy En Fuego® Rose (Rosa spp.)

Oso Easy landscape roses have a reputation for living up to their name, for they are oh-so-easy to grow! En Fuego keeps the proud lineage going with its beauty, plus its adaptability to cold and hot climates and built-in disease resistance to black spot and powdery mildew. The large, intensely colorful flowers, set off against glossy dark green foliage, start out yellow and red before opening fully to an electric orange.

Part of Proven Winners® ColorChoice® collection, En Fuego matures at 3 to 4 feet tall, 18 in. wide and makes an excellent addition to a perennial garden or dwarf conifer bed. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Kodiak® Jet Black™ Diervilla (Diervilla x ‘SMNDSN’)

The Kodiak Diervilla line of Proven Winners ColorChoice shrubs has gained fans for its easygoing nature and ability to accept different lighting conditions. Homeowners also like the fall foliage and the bright flower clusters, although the latter are sometimes hard to see against the summer foliage.

Enter Kodiak Jet Black Diervilla, which features contrasting burgundy-black foliage that remains strikingly dark all season long, helping the small yellow flowers stand out. Kodiak Jet Black Diervilla grows 3 to 4 feet tall and wide and makes an excellent addition to shrub borders or to surround a deck. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-7. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Autumn Moonstruck® Azalea (Rhododendron hybrid ‘Roblezf’)

A repeat bloomer is always appreciated, but one with eye-catching foliage as well. It seems Encore® Azalea has hit another home run with Autumn Moonstruck, the first in this popular series of reblooming azaleas to offer variegated foliage. The emerald and chartreuse variegation has enough charm to carry the show all season—with or without the double white blooms, which appear in spring and then sporadically after that in summer and fall.

This azalea likes the sun, too, so it can be massed as a colorful hedge. It grows to 5 feet tall, 4 feet wide or kept smaller and grown in a pot. USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10. Photo courtesy of Encore Azaleas.

Golden Child® Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Mirjam’)

This is one arborvitae that refuses to blend into the background. This Monrovia introduction not only grows in the garden, but it also glows in the garden with finely cut foliage in bright hues of yellow and yellow-green that resist scorching in the sun. In winter, the foliage takes on a light bronze cast for even more variety. With a slow growth rate and compact mature size of 18 to 24 in. tall and wide, this globe-shaped evergreen makes a well-behaved addition to the garden. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Chateau® de Saumur Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus ‘Minsyanlav02’)

Like its other rose of Sharon brethren, this shrub is fast-growing and full of colorful flowers in late summer. However, there is one major difference: this is the first in Monrovia’s popular Chateau series to feature fluffy, peony-like blooms with frilly center petals. The large violet-pink flowers cover stems from top to bottom for a long blooming season into fall.

Chateau de Saumur grows 5 to 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide and makes an excellent informal hedge or backdrop for shorter plants. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Seaside Serenade® Pebble Beach Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘SC-04-20’)

The newest member of Monrovia’s Seaside Serenade hydrangea collection, Pebble Beach boasts large mophead flowers—purple in acidic soil, raspberry pink in alkaline—spring through summer. Blooms, which have a hint of bright green color for an intriguing twist, are held on sturdy, dark red stems to resist weather.

Like others in the Seaside Serenade series, Pebble Beach has a compact, bushy growth habit, growing 3 to 4 feet tall and wide. It works well as a focal point in the garden, massed as an informal border or even grown in a container as an accent plant. Also, the blooms make excellent cut flowers in a vase. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Violet Mist® Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus)

With a mature size of just 3 to 4 feet in height and width, Violet Mist from First Editions® is more compact than other varieties and can fit neatly into many smaller landscapes. It also reacts well to pruning and, since it blooms on new wood, can be trimmed back in spring to keep an even tighter habit—without jeopardizing the season’s floral show.

Speaking of which, the flowers on Violet Mist are a pollinator magnet, appearing in profusion in early summer and showing off their attractive blue-purple hues. Deadheading encourages reblooming. USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9. Photo courtesy of First Editions.

Bloombux® Blush Rhododendron (Rhododendron hybrid)

Here’s a colorful alternative to boring boxwood—and one less prone to winter damage, too. Growing just 18 to 24 in. tall, it’s a perfect option for an elegant low hedge. But rather than settling for a long season of greenery, Bloombux Blush offers something extra with a floral show worthy of rhododendrons.

The large, 3 to 4-in. wide blooms on this Bloomin’ Easy® introduction have a blush-pink hue when they appear in spring and are sure to please the eye while satisfying pollinators. USDA Hardiness Zone 5-9. Photo courtesy of Bloomin’ Easy.

Spice Cowboy™ Snowball Bush (Viburnum carlesii ‘SMNVCST’)

Spice Cowboy Snowball Bush combines visual appeal with fragrant blooms and seasonal color changes. This versatile shrub, available through Jackson & Perkins®, grows 6 to 10 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide, so it can be shaped into a small tree or grown as a dense hedge.

Large clusters of snowball-like flowers boast a spicy-sweet scent in spring, so consider placing the shrub near a patio, deck or other spot in the garden where you can appreciate this feature. Come fall, you can look forward to seeing the foliage turn fiery orange-red as a final act. Spice Cowboy is highly adaptable, thriving in most moist, well-drained soils. It is also deer-resistant. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Li’l Annie Oakleaf™ Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Oakann1588’)

Here’s a downsized version of the classic oakleaf hydrangea that’s a great fit for gardens of all sizes. While the North American native species grows 6 to 8 feet tall and wide, Li’l Annie oakleaf hydrangea has a more compact reach of 3 to 4 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide, making it more suitable for use as a foundation plant or midrange addition to a mixed bed.

Available from Star® Roses and Plants, the shrub has large, white flowers that age to pink and host many beneficial pollinators. As a bonus, the green foliage eventually turns burgundy for added drama in the fall garden. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9.

Suntastic™ Pink Abelia (Abelia hybrid ‘Pink’)

This new and improved abelia from the Southern Living® Plant Collection is a compact shrub that adds oodles of color and texture without making a gardener raise a sweat. The brightly variegated foliage is a treat throughout the year, and the plant itself matures at just 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide, so it’s perfect for borders, foundations or even containers. Moreover, this water-wise beauty is heat tolerant and thrives in full sun. USDA Hardiness Zones 6-10. Photo courtesy of PlantHaven International, planthaven.com

Mop Top™ Butterfly Bush (Buddleia alternifolia)

With its weeping branches and compact growth habit, Mop Top brings a touch of elegance and grace to a garden. It’s not lacking in color, either, as this new shrub is full of fragrant lavender flowers from mid-spring to mid-summer, much to the delight of bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Mop Top stays manageable at 3 to 5 feet tall and wide, offering versatility for small garden spaces. This low-maintenance shrub, available through Jackson & Perkins®, has excellent drought tolerance and enhanced cold hardiness. It’s also sterile, so it won’t cause concern over self-seeding. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

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Traffic Cameras and Road Sensors Every Driver Should Know

Like it or not, traffic cameras are a fixture on North American roadways, and they aren’t going away anytime soon. Before you get upset about living in a surveillance state, you should know not all of them are there to keep you in line. Some are there to monitor traffic flow for the purpose of timing traffic lights and planning road improvements. Some keep track of road conditions in bad weather so that authorities can issue traffic updates, and some charge tolls on bridges and toll roads.

“Then, there are traffic enforcement cameras,” says insurance expert Melanie Musson. “They operate by capturing a picture of an infraction, gathering information about the car and license plate, and issuing an automatic citation.” If you’re worried about surveillance, these are the cameras you want to watch out for, but how do you tell the difference?

I sought answers from Musson, Ben Michael, an attorney at Michael & Associates, and Gary Goble, a retired police chief who now works for an automated enforcement company. Here’s what they told me.

What Are Traffic Cameras?

They’re just what you think: Traffic cameras are cameras that monitor traffic. Most of them are video cameras, but there are quite a few that take still images. To do its job, a traffic camera has to be mounted above the roadway, either sharing a pole with a traffic light, mounted on its own pole or affixed to an overpass or a toll collection station.

Traffic cameras are nothing new. I had my first encounter with an enforcement camera while driving on a Japanese freeway in the 1990s. The speed limit was an unrealistic 80 km/hour (about 50 mph), and the camera flashed when your speed exceeded 100 km/hour. Because it was stationary, most drivers knew it was there and slowed down as they approached, but since I was new to the country, I maintained my speed and got the flash as I passed by. Two weeks later, I received an image in the mail of myself at the wheel accompanied by a ¥20,000 (about $200 at the time) ticket.

Types of Traffic Cameras

“There are actually quite a few different kinds of traffic cameras, and not all are used for the purpose of catching people breaking the law,” says Michael. Here’s a rundown of the ones you’ll likely spot on North American roadways (assuming you’re keeping a sharp eye out for them).

Traffic monitoring cameras

Traffic monitoring cameras are the benign ones. They are about the size and shape of a home security camera, and they are usually mounted next to traffic lights, on bridges and overpasses, or on their own poles next to roadways. They often incorporate sensors that monitor traffic flow and road conditions, and they don’t flash.

Red light cameras

Did you just see a flash as you sped toward a yellow light, only to have it turn red just before you got to the intersection? A red light camera has nabbed you. This type of camera, which you’ll find mounted on its own pole at a busy intersection, is fairly bulky, consisting of a large camera box and one or two external flashes. It’s connected to an automated ticket issuing system, and it usually sends out the ticket a few weeks after the violation.

Flashing can be distracting to drivers, so modern red light cameras use a different method. “At Verra Mobility,” says Goble, referring to the company for which he works, “a majority of our red light and speed safety cameras are mounted adjacent to a street and on separate poles so that the camera can capture the back of a vehicle and record the license plate (this also helps to reduce privacy concerns as the camera is not looking into vehicles).”

Goble says these cameras are harder to spot than the ones that flash, so they have signage that alerts drivers to the automated enforcement in the region. If you don’t want one to catch you, look for the signs.

Speed cameras

You’ll find fixed versions of these on highways, less-populated back roads and residential streets. They are usually mounted on their own poles on the side of the road or on overpasses, they are smaller than red light cameras, and they don’t always flash. If they do flash, the flash “is brief and only reaches the short distance to the vehicle as to not distract drivers,” says Goble. There are also mobile versions that are attached to police vehicles, but obviously, you won’t be able to spot these until it’s too late.

ANPR cameras

ANPR stands for Automated Number Plate Recognition. You’ll see these cameras at automated toll booths and above expressway toll lanes. If you’re worried about surveillance, these are the cameras you especially want to avoid — unless you’re paying a toll. That can be difficult, because many highway patrol officers and state troopers have them mounted on their vehicles. They can tell the officers much about you and your driving history, and you could get pulled over for an outstanding parking ticket or some other violation even if you’re not doing anything wrong.

ANPR cameras operate in the infrared, and they are usually equipped with an LED cluster to help them see at night. This cluster is a dead giveaway that the camera you see mounted above the roadway or to the side of it is an ANPR one.

How To Avoid Traffic Cameras

The simplest way to avoid traffic cameras is to obey traffic laws! Many evasion techniques, like covering your license plate or tinting your windows to make yourself invisible, are illegal in many states, including California.

One way you can be more aware of traffic cameras in your area that’s not against the law is using GPS. “GPS systems alert drivers to red light cameras. So, even if you’re driving, and you know the way, it can be helpful to plug your destination into GPS, so you can find out about red light cameras before you cut your yellow light coast-through too close,” advises Musson.

I don’t recommend speeding at all, but if you have a heavy foot, your best bet it to keep an eye out for cameras, and if you spot one — no matter what kind it is — slow down.

FAQ

Do all traffic lights have cameras?

No, that would be a nightmare both for drivers and for law enforcement. Cameras are typically deployed only at busy intersections where red light violations are common. In the county in which I live, only one intersection has a camera, although more may be coming in the future.

Do the cameras on traffic lights give tickets?

Yes, traffic cameras can automatically issue tickets, and the accompanying imagery is “strong evidence that is very difficult to dispute in court,” according to Michael. However, Musson states that, because these tickets are not in the same category as a ticket given at the discretion of a human law enforcement officer, they usually do not affect insurance.

Do traffic cameras flash?

Some do, but not all of them, because there’s not always a need. “This can be based on location, the equipment, or the times a program may be enforced,” says Goble.

About the Experts

• Melanie Musson is a published insurance and finance expert. She specializes in car insurance and works with InsuranceProviders.com.
• Gary Goble is a retired police chief turned client success manager at Verra Mobility. He helps support communities that implement automated enforcement programs across the country.
• Ben Michael is an attorney with Michael & Associates, based in Dallas TX.

Sources

• Improv: People Are Outsmarting Traffic Cameras, but Is It Worth the Risk?; (2025)
• Radenso: What’s the difference between traffic cameras, red light cameras, and speed cameras?; (2018)

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The Truth About Using Salt to Eliminate Weeds

When I lived in Florida, my yard was made from pea rock, so keeping up with weeding was a hassle. However, since I lived next to a waterway, I didn’t want to use chemicals that could harm aquatic life, so I considered killing the weeds with salt. That’s when a friend pointed out that historically, conquerors have used salt on their opponents’ agricultural fields to keep crops from growing. That made me wonder if it was truly something I should be doing to my own land.

“It is a myth that salt is a safe, natural alternative to chemical herbicides,” says turf specialist Bennett Barrier. “It’s a cheap shortcut, but in the long run, it will cause long-lasting damage to the soil and plants growing nearby, impacting biodiversity.”

Here’s what you need to know about killing weeds with salt and when, if ever, it’s a good solution.

Does Salt Kill Weeds?

Yes, high concentrations of salt kills weeds by drawing moisture out of their cells and interfering with their ability to uptake water and nutrients.

Does Salt Kill Weeds Permanently?

It depends on the amount of salt and what kind of plants you’re trying to kill, but in general, small amounts of salt tend to kill only the above-ground parts of the plant, not necessarily the roots. Because of that, salt works best on smaller, shallow-rooted weeds versus perennials like dandelions and thistles that have deeper roots, says lawn care expert Eduard Negodenko.

Can I Use Salt to Kill Weeds on My Lawn?

Yes, but it’s not a good idea since salt also kills beneficial plants and can damage your lawn, making it uneven and sickly looking, says home renovation expert Keith Sant. Salt also changes the chemistry of your soil and harms microbes that are important for maintaining soil health. If you have excess salt in your soil, nothing will be able to grow there again until rainwater gradually washes it away, which will also make it harder to renovate or re-sod the lawn.

If you do decide to use salt anyway, lawn care expert Rob Palmer recommends adding ingredients such as baking soda, vinegar and dish soap to make the mixture more effective. “Since salt is the main ingredient in baking soda, it can help control weeds when applied correctly,” he says. Vinegar’s acidity can further help dry out the target weeds, while dish soap helps the mixture stick to the leaves.

Can I Use Salt To Kill Weeds in My Driveway?

Yes, but use it sparingly. “Since you are dealing with hard, compacted surfaces like concrete, the salt will be more effective here without doing too much damage to surrounding plant life,” says Barrier. “But it will, nonetheless, still affect the soil beneath the driveway, especially if the salt is washed into any cracks or crevices, leading to future growth problems in those areas.”

Negodenko recommends pouring a 3:1 water-to-salt mixture into cracks in driveways. Only apply it during a dry time to avoid runoff into areas where plants are to be grown.

Also, beware of using excess de-icing salts in the winter, as the salt and other additives in those pose a significant threat to your lawn, soil and greater ecosystem health.

“Over time, it can build up in the soil, creating an inhospitable environment for plant growth,” says Palmer. “Certain turfgrasses, like tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, have a higher tolerance to salt exposure, while more sensitive varieties, such as Kentucky bluegrass, may suffer greater damage.”

As an alternative, Palmer recommends de-icers, including calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), sand, kitty litter, beet juice or brine solutions.

What’s the Best Alternative To Salt for Killing Weeds?

Some more sustainable alternatives to killing weeds with salt include:

• Horticultural-grade vinegar, which is especially effective on tender and sprouting plants. “It’s great for killing weeds in no time, and is the fastest way to kill those plants,” says Negodenko.
• Boiling water, which is best for weeds growing within cracks and gravel paths. “It is simple and straight to the point,” says Negodenko.
• Pulling weeds by hand or with a weeding tool, which is best for plants with deeper roots.
• Flame weeding with a propane torch, which won’t damage the surrounding soil.
• Wood chips or straw mulch, which blocks sunlight and thus suppresses weed germination.
• Organic weed barriers (refrain from plastic-based products, which also damage soil health).

“In severe cases, one could use something more preventive like a pre-emergent,” says Negodenko. For that, he recommends aerating the soil, over-seeding, then applying corn gluten meal. “It’s a great way to kill weeds and preserve a healthy lawn,” he says.

About the Experts

• Rob Palmer is Brand President at the lawn care franchise Lawn Squad, and has been in the lawn care business for more than 30-years.
• Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently work at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
• Bennett Barrier has years of experience with lawn care, and is currently a turf specialist and CEO at DFW Turf Solutions.
• Keith Sant is Founder and CEO of Kind House Buyers, based in Tacoma, Washington, and specializes in buying, renovating and selling highly damaged houses.

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10 DIY Pond, Fountain and Waterfall Projects That Will Transform Your Yard

Peaceful Pond and Deck

Are you in need of a little serenity now? A reflecting pond is just the place to rest your gaze after a trying day. This pond and deck are unique, not only in appearance but also in building technique. Most ponds are free-form, informal shapes that have either soft or hard plastic liners dug into the ground. But for this homemade pond, we used simple wood walls to frame it and form the base for the surrounding deck. A single-piece rubber liner keeps the water in. And the garden berm that surrounds one end is practical and has a nice landscaping feature. We simply mounded the soil dug from the pond hole so we wouldn’t have to haul it away.

This homemade pond isn’t exactly a weekend project. In fact, even if you’re in great shape, you should expect to spend the better part of a long day just digging the hole and laying in the gravel footings. The good news is that the construction is simple and doesn’t require a bunch of expensive tools.

One-Day Mini Pond and Fountain

Build this compact, charming, inexpensive little pond and fountain in one day using simple off-the-shelf materials. This homemade water fountain will spruce up your yard and provide a pleasant place for you to sit and for neighborhood birds to get a drink and splash around a bit.

Pond in a Box

Build this simple, above-ground pond with a trellis and fountain on a weekend. The advantages of an above-ground patio waterfall are:

• With this design, there’s practically none of the worst part of pond building — gut-busting digging. And that also means there’s no huge pile of dirt to get rid of.
• Talk about instant gratification! Build the walls and trellis in the morning, assemble the pond in the afternoon, add the trim the next day, and then go buy goldfish!
• Traditional in-ground ponds can be a drowning hazard for toddlers and pets, but this above-ground design reduces the risk.

Low-Maintenance Backyard Pond

A backyard pond with running water, floating plants and darting fish can make a bland space breathtaking. Keeping a patio waterfall attractive and trouble-free takes work, but with a little extra care at the planning and building stages, you can create a pond that’s almost maintenance-free.

Patio Pond

This freestanding pond-in-a-box features a place for water plants and planters for in-ground plants. Construction is easy for this homemade pond, and a brush-on rubber lining keeps the container watertight.

Pond with Waterfall

Add the magic of moving water to your backyard with a waterfall and pond. Preformed shells, rubber liners and off-the-shelf pumps and filters put the project’s costs and skill requirements within easy reach of any do-it-yourselfer to build a homemade water fountain. You’ll put in your share of sweat equity, busting sod and hauling stone for a patio waterfall. But when you’re done, you’ll have a landscape feature to enjoy for years.

Private Pond and Waterfall

A backyard pond doesn’t have to be big to have a big impact. This private pond is less than 6 feet long and just over 4 feet across. But with its striking stone surround and sparkling waterfall, it can become the centerpiece of any landscape. Build this small pond in as little as one weekend! This design is versatile, too. You can make the pond twice as large as this one or half the size. You can locate it on flat terrain or tuck the stone waterfall wall into a slope. Unlike most ponds, this one won’t leave you with a small mountain of soil to deal with—you can simply use the excavated soil to form a berm behind the waterfall wall.

Bamboo Waterfall

You don’t have to settle for some kitschy plastic-resin waterfall if you’re looking for a unique water feature. There’s a simple and elegant way to add a soothing waterfall to your backyard, and you don’t have to be particularly handy or have a shop full of tools. Follow these simple steps to build this bamboo sluice (in a single day) and a small pond to catch the water, complete with a pump and water plants.

Natural-Looking Artesian Fountain

If you’re looking for an eye-catching feature for your patio, deck or even front entry, this natural-looking fountain will do the trick. Designed around a special stone with a 1-in. hole drilled through it, water from the pump gurgles up through the hole and overflows the stone. To reduce maintenance, we eliminated the collection pond. A gravel-filled reservoir below collects the overflow for recirculation. Since no sunlight can reach the water in the reservoir and support algae growth, the water stays pristine.

Cast Concrete Fountain

Enjoy the splash and sparkle of water indoors or out—with minimal maintenance and expense. Learn how to build this fountain out of concrete. You’ll save several hundred dollars building this fountain yourself instead of buying it. So make a trip to your local home center to pick up the supplies, then follow these how-to steps to cast the fountain.

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Make Your House More Comfortable with These Insulation Tips

Cut Fiberglass Batts to Exact Widths

It’s easy to insulate your walls with fiberglass insulation (at least when they’re open!), but the job still requires attention to detail to get the maximum benefit. Every gap and compressed batt leaves a path for heat or cold to escape.

Measure and cut the fiberglass batt for an exact fit. Add about 1/4 in. to the measurement to ensure a snug fit. Use a 4- to 6-in.-wide board or strip of plywood as a straightedge to guide your utility knife. Line up the edge of the board at the proper width, compress the insulation and cut it with a sharp utility knife. A scrap of plywood under the batt will protect finished floors and keep the blade from dulling on concrete.

Avoid Stuffing

Don’t stuff full-width batts into spaces that are too narrow. Crumpling batts to fit narrow spaces creates uninsulated air pockets. And packed insulation has a lower R-value.

Wear Protective Equipment

Protect your skin, eyes and lungs when you’re working with fiberglass. If you’re installing a lot of it, consider wearing a disposable coverall (inexpensive at paint stores and home centers).

Goggles, gloves, a dust mask, a cap and long-sleeved coverings protect you from fiberglass irritation.

Seal Narrow Gaps with Foam

Seal around window and door jambs with expanding spray foam. The main purpose of the spray foam is to seal the space around the window to prevent air infiltration. Use foam that’s labeled for window and door insulating. This ‘minimal-expanding’ type reduces the chance of warping the jamb. If there’s still space around the window after the foam cures, lightly stuff the remaining space with strips of fiberglass insulation.

Notch Batts Around Electrical Boxes

Cut notches in batts to fit snuggly around electrical boxes. Airtight boxes have gaskets that seal against the drywall.

Put the batt in place, and use scissors to snip around the box. Tuck the snipped-out plug of insulation behind the box. Don’t wrap fiberglass batts around electrical boxes or stuff full batts behind them. That creates gaps and air convection routes around the box.

Split Batts Around Cables and Pipes

Split apart the batts to fit around wires and pipes to get the full value of the insulation. Fiberglass batts have a vertical weave that allow you to easily tear it open for insulating around electrical cables.

Avoid Stuffing Batts Behind Pipes and Cables

Don’t tuck full-thickness batts behind pipes and cables. Compressing the fiberglass decreases its insulating value and creates voids between the insulation and the drywall.

Plug Holes in Top and Bottom Plates

Plug holes in the top and bottom plates with expanding spray foam. Even small holes can let a lot of air escape. Don’t leave gaps around wires, pipes or ducts unplugged. These gaps create pathways for warm interior air to leak into the attic, wasting energy and causing attic condensation or even ice dams in cold climates.

Avoid Paper-Faced Insulation Where Possible

Don’t buy paper-faced insulation for standard wall insulating jobs. The paper facing makes cutting the batts difficult. And it’s hard to create a tight vapor retarder with paper-faced batts.

Buy Friction-Fit Batts

Buy unfaced friction-fit batts and seal the walls with a 4-mil poly vapor retarder. Seal the gap between the bottom plate of the wall and the floor with acoustical sealant or caulk. Press the poly into the sealant. Use special airtight electrical boxes (see photo, Tip 5) or seal the poly to the electrical box with acoustical sealant. Tape the seams in the poly with sheathing tape.

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