8 Tips for Painting With a Textured Roller

A fresh lick of paint is an easy, economical way to give your tired walls a makeover. You can achieve a trendy, unique, textured finish while also economically covering imperfections in your older homes plastered walls. Fortunately, you don’t have to stock up on sponges or rely on pros using a trowel or sprayer to achieve the finish you want. You can DIY!

“Textured rollers can create visually interesting patterns and textures, adding depth and character to a surface,” Paige NeJame, owner of CertaPro Painters, South Shore and Boston, says. “They can mimic the look of materials like fabric and stone.”

NeJame explains that textured rollers can also help conceal imperfections on drywall or plaster surfaces and even help dampen sound.

We asked the experts for their tips for painting with a textured roller to achieve the look you want.

Choose the Right Roller

Textured rollers feature naps (fiber strands) with different lengths, structures and materials to help create particular looks, such as the popular bumpy orange peel effect.

“Textured rollers also come in different patterns, such as swirls, bricks and stucco,” Nick Lopez, Founder of LIME Painting, says.

Both Lopez and NeJame recommend textured rollers from popular brands Purdy and Wooster. However, there are many styles to choose from, and Lopez suggested trying out different patterns and styles to find the one that best creates your desired finish.

Wool

Textured paint roller covers with naps made from lambswool or other knit fabrics, such as polyester, hold paint well, apply evenly, fill crevices on rough walls and can produce a stippled, orange-peel texture. Lopez says some textured rollers can also create a natural wood grain or stone effect.

A nap length of at least three-quarters inch usually works best. However, a shorter nap can be better when using a paint mix containing a lot of additives (such as sand), otherwise, it’s tricky to roll out evenly.

Patterned rollers

“Patterned rollers can create more intricate patterns on the surface,” Lopez says.

Most people use a plain foam roller to quickly and evenly apply thin paint smoothly. However, try a foam decorative art roller with an embossed design to create an interesting feature wall.

Looped material

Looped plastic naps, like the one on the Wooster specialist roller, produce a decorative stucco effect when using thick, textured paints containing lots of compound additives, such as sand, joint compound or limestone. These rollers work best on rougher surfaces.

Choose the Right Paint

“Homeowners can get the textured finish they are looking for more easily if they use a paint specifically designed to leave behind texture,” NeJame says.

The best textured paint depends on the finish you’re looking to create and the porosity of the surface. There are lots to choose from, including grainy, clay, stone-like or chalky limewash paint formulations. You can also mix additives into standard paint. “We’ll mix drywall joint compound with a paint coating to create a heavier texture on walls and tint the substrate (the surface material being painted),” NeJame says. “The tint can minimize the need for additional coats of paint.” Her company also sometimes adds perlite to the coating to achieve a sandy texture.

Of course, you can also use standard paint with a textured roller. “If you are using a rough, knobble-textured roller, an oil-based paint will often work best because it can better penetrate the small crevices and create an even coverage,” Lopez says.

“However, if your textured roller is more subtle and smooth, you may find a water-based paint will do the job better,” he says. Lopez and NeJame agree that water-based paints are more versatile. They are easier to work with, clean up more easily, emit fewer fumes and dry quicker.

“However, drying quickly is not necessarily a benefit if you want to get the textured paint ‘just so’,” NeJame says.

Test the Texture

NeJame and Lopez recommend testing your textured roller and paint combo on a scrap of drywall or a large piece of cardboard. You want to ensure you can achieve the expected finish, and it can help you perfect your rolling technique.

“Adjust the roller pressure or switch to a different roller until you achieve the desired texture,” Lopez says.

Prep the Wall

While textured rollers and paints can help mask surface imperfections, the right paint prep work is still important for an even, long-lasting finish.

“Ensure the surface is clean, dry and free of debris before applying the textured roller,” Lopez says. NeJame recommends rolling on a primed or, at least, already painted surface.

Load the Roller Conservatively

“Textured rollers tend to absorb more paint than regular rollers, so you should be careful not to overload them,” Lopez says. “Apply a thin layer of paint first and build it up gradually to achieve the desired effect,” he says. NeJame says sometimes you may need to thin the paint for more even application.

Use Light Strokes

Don’t think pushing the roller hard against the surface will help create a more defined look. “Light and gentle strokes should be used when rolling,” Lopez says. “Allow the textured roller to do its job and let it create the desired texture.”

Try Reversing the Roller Direction

Lopez says that reversing the roller’s direction can add subtle variation, depending on the look you want to achieve. “This prevents a monotonous texture appearance on your wall,” he says.

Work Methodically

“Textured rollers can create an uneven surface if you cover a large area at once,” Lopez says. Depending on the roller, paint and surface type, you might need to work on small sections at a time and blend the edges with a soft-bristled brush to avoid visible seams. If you want a particularly rough texture, try using the roller dry on thick, partially dry paint.

Rollers can make painting large walls quicker and easier, but Lopez says you need more time when working with a textured roller. “You may need to apply several coats to get the desired effect,” he says. This is especially true if you want a very bumpy finish.

Article source here: 8 Tips for Painting With a Textured Roller

Guide To Growing Snowdrop Flowers

I love to see snowdrops blooming when there are still dots of snow on the ground. They’re usually one of the first flowers of the new year in my garden, often blooming as early as February.

What Are Snowdrops?

Common name: Snowdrop.

Botanical name: Galanthus sp.

Family: Amaryllidaceae.

Plant type: Perennial bulb.

Mature size: Six to 10 inches tall.

Bloom time: February and March. In warmer climates, they may bloom earlier.

Colors: White, occasionally tipped in green or yellow.

Best in: USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 3 through 8.

Toxicity: Toxic to humans, dogs and cats. Deer don’t eat them. Wear gloves when handling bulbs or plants to avoid possible skin irritation.

Varieties of Snowdrops

Two types are commonly planted in North American gardens.

Common snowdrops

The Common snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, does well Zones 3 through 7 and grows six to eight inches tall.

• ‘Viride-Apic’ features a green dot on the edge of each petal.
• ‘Flore Pleno’ has double white flowers.

Giant snowdrops

The Giant snowdrop, Galanthus elwesii, thrives in Zones 3 through 8 and grows eight to 10 inches tall.

• ‘Mount Everest’ grows quickly and is good for naturalizing (letting it spread to form a nice patch of flowers).
• ‘Polar Bear,’ with outward-facing flowers, grows four to eight inches tall.

How to Plant Snowdrops

Snowdrops are as easy to plant as any other bulb maybe easier because the bulbs are small.

When to plant snowdrops

In fall, plant as soon as you buy them. Snowdrops don’t like to be out of the ground for too long.

How deep to plant snowdrops

Plant about four inches deep. Space them about two to four inches apart and plant several together. They’re small flowers; a single one would get lost.

Can snowdrops be planted in pots?

Yes. I’ve had good success waiting until the foliage appears, then carefully digging up a few snowdrops and potting them up to bring inside to flower. This only works if the ground isn’t frozen. If the ground has frozen, enjoy your snowdrops when they bloom in the ground.

How to Care for Snowdrops

Light

Snowdrops prefer full sun. A spot under deciduous trees works well because the snowdrops will get sun during winter and early spring.

Soil

Choose loose, well-draining soil, enriched with organic matter.

Water

Snowdrops generally don’t need to be watered. Between snow melt and rain, they’ll get enough moisture for their needs.

Fertilizing

In most gardens, you don’t need to provide any special fertilizer. Adding compost when planting is often enough.

Pruning

Snowdrops don’t need to be pruned. Let the foliage die back naturally in spring. Of course, you can cut off a few snowdrop blooms to enjoy indoors.

Pests and diseases of snowdrops

Snowdrops are rarely bothered by pests and diseases in most gardens.

How To Get Snowdrops to Bloom

You don’t need to do anything to get snowdrops to bloom! However, if you notice fewer blooms than normal, it may be because the bulbs multiplied and are crowding each other out.

How To Divide Snowdrops

Snowdrops are easy to divide in spring while the foliage is still growing, after they’ve finished flowering.

Carefully dig up a section of snowdrops, divide it into individual bulbs, then replant each bulb. You may have enough to share with a friend.

Snowdrops FAQs

Are snowdrops invasive?

Snowdrops can naturalize in an area where the growing conditions are ideal, but aren’t generally considered invasive. The National Invasive Species Information Center is a great resource.

What do snowdrop flowers represent?

In her book Flowers and Their Meanings: The Secret Language and History of Over 600 Blooms, author Karen Azoulay says snowdrops traditionally represent hope. Their emergence is one of the first signs of spring.

Do snowdrops smell?

No.

Can you grow snowdrops from seeds?

Yes, but it’s tricky and probably best left to those trying to breed new varieties. It can take up to four years for a snowdrop grown from seed to bloom.

What are lovers of snowdrops called?

In many parts of the world, especially Great Britain, gardeners who go crazy for snowdrops are called galanthophiles. They collect as many varieties as they can and plan special trips in February to visit gardens known for their snowdrop displays.

Article source here: Guide To Growing Snowdrop Flowers

8 Best Dart Boards For Every Game Room

Best Overall Dart Board

Winmau Blade 6 Bristle Dart Board

Winmau is a brand you can find in most respectable Irish and/or British pubs (the ones here in the States and abroad) and has been the board of choice for countless amateur dart matches (it’s also regulation-sized). The Winmau Blade 6 Bristle Dartboard is made of a high-quality bristle that can “heal,” or self-repair the holes created by the darts.

The ultra-thin 60-degree angled wire ensures darts bounce into the scoring area, and the thin wiring prevents bounce back. The more than 7,000 5-star Amazon reviews say it’s easy to install and lasts for years. It’s a perfect addition for man caves or family rooms.

Pros

• Regulation-size dart board
• Under $100
• Durable bristle board
• Thin wiring

Cons

• No darts included

Shop Now

Article source here: 8 Best Dart Boards For Every Game Room

Can You Spray Paint Wood?

If it wasn’t possible to spray paint wood, I might have spent several years of my life unemployed, because that was my main job from my late-20s to mid-30s. During that time I worked at two furniture finishing companies before I ran my own spray booth operation.

So if you’re asking, “Can you spray paint wood?” the answer is a definite yes. But should you? That’s another story altogether.

While it’s almost always better to spray paint on wood than brush it on, a lot can go wrong. You can mix the paint too thin or too thick, resulting in drips or splotches. You can paint things you didn’t intend to paint, including yourself. And, depending on the paint and whether you protect yourself properly, you could inhale toxic fumes.

There’s also the issue of equipment. If you’re painting a small piece like a chair or small cabinet, aerosol cans work well. But if you’re painting large pieces or exterior woodwork, or doing production work, you’ll need to buy or rent a sprayer and keep it clean. You’ll also need masking supplies, dropcloths, protective clothing and personal protective equipment (PPE).

It’s all worth it if you’re after a top-notch paint job, and you may even save time on large jobs. It’s up to you to decide whether doing the job with a paint brush and roller might be more practical.

Considerations for Spray Painting Wood

Spray-painting projects aren’t all the same. Some call for controlled conditions like a spray booth, and some call for a particular type of sprayer.

Here are some of the main things to think about if you’re considering spray painting wood:

Type of sprayer

If you’re painting furniture, you’ll get best results with a fast-drying lacquer or enamel, and many are solvent based.

The best choice for these materials is a high-volume, low-pressure (HVLP) sprayer, which requires an air compressor. If you’re painting wood interior or exterior walls or woodwork with water-based latex paint, an airless sprayer that pumps paint at high pressure is a better call.

Consider a handheld airless sprayer. These offer a reasonable compromise between air sprayers and high-volume airless ones house painters use. They can spray pretty much any material. But the flow is more difficult to control, so they aren’t the best choice for a high-quality furniture finish.

Temperature and humidity

High-humidity and low-temperature conditions cause fast-drying furniture lacquers and enamels to retain moisture and turn cloudy, a condition called blushing. Latex paint dries more slowly in these conditions, and it may drip if you spray it in thick coats. High temperatures and low humidity are better for spraying.

Mixing

When you use a brush and roller, you can apply paint straight out of the can. But you usually need to thin paint before spraying, especially when using an HVLP sprayer.

You need to know which type of thinner to use and mix it in the right proportion. Because you often determine the proportion by trial and error, you need a test surface to practice on say. a piece of cardboard or plywood.

Overspray and fumes

Solvent-based furniture finishes are high in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), so you need to keep the room where you’re working well ventilated and wear a respirator, not just a dust mask.

Overspray isn’t a huge issue with these paints. Fast-drying finishes atomize when shot from an HVLP sprayer, and the material that doesn’t hit the spot you’re aiming for usually turns to dust.

Latex paint shot from an airless sprayer also creates fumes, although they aren’t quite as toxic. The overspray remains in liquid form and will stick to anything in the vicinity you haven’t covered.

Prepping Wood for Spraying

By itself, spraying goes quickly, but masking surrounding surfaces can be time-consuming. You’ll also need protective clothing, especially when spraying latex paint, which can get messy.

When spraying outdoors, be mindful of surrounding plants and walkways and be sure to cover them. The last thing you need is a rose bush that’s the same color as your house.

Before spraying any type of wood, make sure it’s clean and mold-free, and its finish is in good shape and won’t peel. Otherwise, you’ll need to strip the finish before spraying.

Sanding is a necessary prerequisite to spraying furniture or interior woodwork. The amount of sanding and the sandpaper grit you use depends on the quality of finish you’re after. Sanding to 120-grit is usually sufficient for shelves and woodwork. For tables, cabinets and other quality woodwork, it’s better to sand to 150- or even 220-grit.

Sealing Bare Wood

To get the quality of finish spraying makes possible, you’ll need to seal bare wood before adding topcoats.

For interior woodwork or furniture, a lacquer-based sanding sealer is best, because it contains soaps that make it easy to sand smooth. If you’re going to apply latex paint with an airless sprayer, a shellac-based primer provides the best undercoat, but water-based ones are also OK.

You’ll get the best furniture finish by spraying multiple coats and scuff-sanding between coats with 220-grit sandpaper. Solvent-based interior finishes dry quickly, so you can usually spray several coats in a single afternoon.

Article source here: Can You Spray Paint Wood?

How To Install Gutter Guards

Gutters are an essential part of any home, directing rainwater away from the foundation and preventing water damage. But what can you do about leaves, twigs and other debris that clog up your gutters?

Gutter guards are a great solution that aren’t that difficult to install. They’re fixed to the gutters, allowing rainwater to flow freely while keeping out leaves, pine needles and other potential blockages. Just make sure to do your gutter guard installation on a day that’s dry and warm.

Their primary benefit of gutter guards? Reduced maintenance. Without them, youll need to clean your gutters regularly to prevent blockages, which can lead to water damage. Gutter guards save you time and potentially money on professional gutter cleaning services.

There are several types of gutter guards; we’re using a fine mesh guard, or leaf filter. The mesh screen traps debris on top while letting rainwater pass through. The debris eventually dries up and the wind blows it away, or you can easily brush it off.

Mesh screens work well where leaves are the main problem, and they’re the easiest to install. They slide up under the shingles, which is ideal because the screen angles downward, allowing debris to slide off the roof.

Before you purchase gutter guards, make sure to measure your gutters so you buy the right size and amount of material.

Safety first

Make sure you have a good, sturdy, extendable ladder. Dress for the job. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, work pants and gloves.

Article source here: How To Install Gutter Guards

How To Make Acorn Baubles

Nothing’s better than a hike in the woods on a beautiful fall day with my family. On those outings, my kids love gathering acorns, pine cones and dried flower tops as they explore the trail. And of course, these items end up in my pockets or in little piles around the house.

So instead of feeling overwhelmed by these beautiful bits of nature surprising you everywhere you look, use them to decorate for fall!

Acorn baubles are an easy and inexpensive fall decoration that incorporates found nature items, a hot glue gun and a couple of things from the dollar store. So let your kids fill their pockets on your next hike, and make some beautiful fall decor that can be strung up with lights or hung with a branch over your mantel.

Is August too early to decorate for fall?

No. Some say the start of school is the unofficial start of fall, and I couldnt agree more. But if you want to pull decor from nature, you might have to wait a bit before going out foraging.

Gather materials

Grab a basket and go out into the woods or any natural area with oak or pine trees. Gather acorns, pine cones, dried tops from coneflowers and other items from nature that catch your eye.

Article source here: How To Make Acorn Baubles

How To Hang a Hammock for Maximum Relaxation

Choose a suitable location

Ideally, find a space between two objects that’s two to four feet wider than your favorite hammock is long. These can include any combination of trees, wooden or metal posts, beams, car racks or other stable structures you can wrap a strap around.

Pro tip: Get a set of adjustable hammock straps like these from Yellow Leaf, which take all the frustration out of tying knots and fine-tuning the hang height.

No matter what you hang your hammock from, proceed as follows:

• Check for insect nests or hazards above and below the hammock that could fall on you, or that you could fall onto if the hammock fails.
• Stay at least 200 feet away from any water source, as per outdoor courtesy and water contamination regulations in many camping areas.
• Make sure your site isn’t blocking the path of animals or people.
• For optimal comfort, anticipate how the sun and shade will progress during the day.

If you’re hanging your hammock from a tree:

• The trunk should be a minimum of six inches in diameter, to avoid snapping or over-stressing the tree.
• Avoid breaking branches or damaging other vegetation around the hammock site.
• Always use tree-friendly straps made of flat webbing, and avoid narrow-gauge rope that can cut into the bark.
• Don’t hang a hammock in a tree where birds are nesting, or there are broken or dead branches above you.
• Never hang a hammock from a dead tree.
• Never drill or nail into a tree.

If you’re hanging your hammock from wooden posts or beams:

• Make sure they are at least four inches by four inches and anchored at least three feet into the ground with concrete reinforcement.
• Steer clear of rotting wood.

If you’re hanging a hammock from pipes:

• Never hang a hammock from water or sewer lines, for obvious reasons.

If you’re hanging a hammock from a vehicle rack:

• Make sure the rack is solid and rated for your weight.
• Make sure the vehicle is in park.

If you have a hammock stand:

• You’re done. Skip to Step 4.

Article source here: How To Hang a Hammock for Maximum Relaxation

What Is Lasagna Gardening?

I have six raised beds for growing vegetables and flowers, all started without dragging out a shovel or firing up a rototiller. I used a simpler, less back-breaking process that’s been called many things, including no-till gardening, mulch gardening, sheet composting and my favorite lasagna gardening.

What Is Lasagna Gardening?

It’s a method of preparing an area for planting by layering different types of organic material. It all gradually breaks down to produce a good soil for planting.

No-till, mulch and lasagna gardening and sheet composting are all variations on a theme. Ruth Stout seems to have started it with her 1955 book, How to Have a Green Thumb Without an Aching Back: A New Method of Mulch Gardening.

Pat Lanza termed it “lasagna gardening” in her 1998 book, Lasagna Gardening: A New Layering System for Bountiful Gardens: No Digging, No Tilling, No Weeding, No Kidding! And this year, Kate Flood called it “sheet composting” in her book, The Compost Coach.

Is Lasagna Gardening the Same as Lasagna Planting?

No. Lasagna planting is a method of planting bulbs, primarily.

Does Lasagna Gardening Work?

Yes. Just look at a local wooded lot. Mother Nature layers on leaves and other organic matter every year. Then a variety of creatures, from microscopic fungi and bacteria to easily identifiable worms, break it down to create a compost-rich soil.

The same thing happens when you layer organic material in a garden bed. It breaks down over time to become good soil for planting.

Lasagna Gardening Layers

There are three basic types of layers:

1. Something to smother the grass and weeds: This is usually several sheets of plain or black-and-white white printed newspaper or cardboard. If you use cardboard, remove all tape, labels and staples, and only use the untreated kind. Avoid cardboard with a slick finish.
2. Green organic matter, aka the nitrogen layer: Examples include untreated grass clippings, any other green leafy clippings, chopped-up kitchen scraps (no meats!) and animal manures.
3. Brown organic matter, aka the carbon layer. Dried leaves, straw and, if available, shredded plain paper.

Starting a Lasagna Gardening Bed

Fall is the best time to prepare a garden bed using the lasagna method. It works in sunny and shady locations.

Once you’ve chosen the perfect spot, gather up material for your layers.

• If there’s grass growing in the area, set your mower to the lowest possible setting before cutting it. Remove any big weeds.
• Cover the area with cardboard or layers of newspaper, overlapping them so weeds don’t grow between them.
• Soak the cardboard or layers of newspapers thoroughly with water.
• Cover the cardboard/newspaper layer with an inch or so of green material (the nitrogen layer).
• Cover the nitrogen layer with brown material (the carbon layer), adding another inch or so. Moisten the bed again.
• Repeat, adding alternating layers of green and brown material.

For best decomposition, build up the layers to about 18 inches high. It may take several days or weeks to gather and spread each layer. Keep the bed moist, but not sopping wet.

How Long Does It Take for Lasagna Gardening to Decompose?

It can take up to six months before your bed is ready for planting, so you’ll need patience. You’ll know the bed is ready when you no longer see the different layers and it all looks like a good, rich compost, like on the ground in the woods.

Is Hugelkultur the Same Thing as Lasagna Gardening?

No, though hugelkultur and lasagna gardening create great soil from layers of organic matter.

Hugelkultur starts with a layer of wood, twigs and wood chips, topped with alternating layers of green and brown organic matter, then a few inches of topsoil. As the wood breaks down, it improves the soil. These types of beds tend to need less water.

Article source here: What Is Lasagna Gardening?

22 Extreme Pumpkin Ideas From AI To Wow Your Neighborhood

Magical Fall Pumpkin

It’s the perfect fall picture … in pumpkin form! We’re ready to snuggle up in a sweater, grab a steaming cup of hot cider and crunch through the leaves on a twilight stroll.

Article source here: 22 Extreme Pumpkin Ideas From AI To Wow Your Neighborhood

How To Build a DIY Patio Table

An outdoor table should be tough. After all, it stays out in the weather and needs to withstand summer BBQ spills, toy car races, rocks from the yard and all the things your family will place on it. This is a simple design that uses rugged, low-maintenance PVC, plus rot- and weather-resistant cedar.

Project Overview

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	4	Legs	4×4 x 29″
B	2	End apron	2×4 x 26-3/4″
C	2	Side apron	2×4 x 55″
D	4	Corner brace	2×4 x approx.6-7/8″(cut to fit)
E	4	Stretcher	2×4 x 28-1/4″
F	6	Table top	1×5-1/2″ x 64″

Cut the table base parts

It’s best to use a miter saw to cut all your parts, but a circular saw will be just fine if youre accurate with your cuts.

I set up a stop block on my miter saw to cut the legs, side and end aprons, and stretchers out of the deck lumber. With a stop block, I can make sure each part is cut to the same length.

Article source here: How To Build a DIY Patio Table

5 Most Reliable Washer Dryer Brands, According to Appliance Repair Techs

LG

LG was formed in the 1980s when plastics company Lucky and electronics manufacturer Goldstar merged to create the brand and name we know today. Goldstar was known as a pioneer in the electronics industry before the merger and has shown no signs of slowing down in recent years.

Washer and dryer sets like the LG WashTowerwhich features a center control panel to operate both machines, a rarity among stackable washers and dryersconnect to the LG ThinQ app. Among other things, the app can alert you to problems with your machines, find the best washing and drying cycles for special fabrics, and let you know when your laundry is done.

Pros

• High-tech machines
• Laundry can be monitored via ThinQ app
• Stackable and side-by-side washer and dryer sets
• Multiple color options

Cons

• Repairmen say machines often have draining issues

Shop Now

Article source here: 5 Most Reliable Washer Dryer Brands, According to Appliance Repair Techs

12 Tips for Sanding Wood Faster

Double Your Productivity

With two sanders, you can put both hands to work and, well, sand twice as fast. Keep the sanders close together and think of them as a single machine. If your hands wander apart into separate territories, you’ll over-sand some spots and miss others.

Article source here: 12 Tips for Sanding Wood Faster

11 Tips for Exterior Painting

Paint Stores Can Help With Colors and Quantities

The first step is picking colors. Choosing those that complement the architectural details of your house and fit the character of your neighborhood can be tricky. Check out bookstores and libraries for books on the subject.

You’ll find brochures at the paint store with collections of historic colors. Many paint stores have designers on staff who can help you choose colors, or you could hire a designer or architect.

Buy a quart of each color you’ve chosen and paint the entire color scheme on a small area of your house before committing to gallons. If you don’t like the results, change the colors and try again.

Next, take rough measurements of your house, noting the type of surface stucco, cedar shingles, smooth siding, etc. Count the doors and windows. With this information, paint store employees can calculate the amount of paint you’ll need. Let them know if you’re painting wood siding or something else. Plan on applying two coats of acrylic latex paint over the primer.

Buy the best paint you can afford. Good-quality paint is easier to apply, covers better and lasts longer. We recommend buying paint with a slight sheen, satin or eggshell. It’s more fade resistant and easier to clean than flat paint.

Article source here: 11 Tips for Exterior Painting

How to Protect Your Carved Pumpkins from Pests

While carved pumpkins, flowers and gourds might brighten up your front porch, they also pose a hidden threat. Fall pests and critters look at those festive furnishings and see an all-you-can-eat buffet, thereby putting you at risk for an infestation.

To help you avoid unwanted houseguests, we spoke with Meg Pearson, training manager at Critter Control and a wildlife expert. Here are her recommendations for keeping your fall decorations and home safe from pests.

Q: Which Fall Decorations Are Critters Most Attracted to?

A: Pumpkins and gourds. Jack-o-lanterns are especially appetizing to critters because the guts and seeds are readily available from the carvings and opening.

Additionally, [pests] will go after flint corn and corn stalks; dried twigs and plants, such as those found in natural wreaths; and decorative flowers, whether fresh or dried.

Q: Which Pests Are Attracted to Carved Pumpkins?

A: Nuisance wildlife most commonly attracted to pumpkins and gourds include, but are not limited to: mice, rats, chipmunks, opossums, groundhogs, raccoons, deer, birds, foxes and more.

Q: What Are the Best Ways to Deter Pests from Gnawing on Carved Pumpkins?

A: One option is to put your decor on elevated surfaces, which can act as a deterrent for some critters that would have to climb to reach it.

When carving jack-o-lanterns, make sure to get all the wet interior out by scraping the inside clean and drying it with a paper towel. For an additional step, you can spray your pumpkins and gourds with a solution of water and vinegar. This helps preserve the cut plant, while also safely deterring pests without any harmful chemicals.

Additional deterrent options could include a motion sensor light. This option may not be effective for all nuisance animals and would likely only be temporarily effective for any that it would deter.

Lastly, applying cayenne pepper to the pumpkin can help deter animals from gnawing/eating the pumpkins and gourds.

@sarashootingit Do your porch pumpkins always get nibbled into? Mine too. And they aint cheap! Keep thwm away with this natural spray. #rodentspray #pumpkinseason #porchpumpkins #keepsquirrelsout #lifehacks Circles – Instrumental – Post Malone

Q: What Are Some Other Preventative Measures to Stop Pests from Entering Your Home?

A: Remove shelter and as many food opportunities as possible. For your yard, this means raking leaves, removing debris or rock piles, and keeping it clean. Hardware cloth barriers can stop critters from getting into your garden.

For your home, you’ll also want to seal up any gaps in or around [it], such as areas under decks, any sort of visible gaps in the foundationor outside of your home. Critters seek shelter and warmth, and openings in your house provide that for them.

Finally, keeping trash tightly sealed, bringing in pets’ water and food dishes, and keeping areas where there are bird feeders clean will deter critters from your property.

Article source here: How to Protect Your Carved Pumpkins from Pests

10 Laundry Room Designs You’ll Be Obsessed With

Elegant Laundry Room Design

I’d never thought of a laundry room as sophisticated until I saw this beauty from @homesmithdesign.

Elevated finishes, like the green cabinetry (Avon Green by Benjamin Moore), gold hardware and beautiful wood accent wall, make this the perfect posh place to wash your cashmere sweaters. The vertical plank wall is the real star of the show, providing a stylish backdrop for the washer and dryer.

Article source here: 10 Laundry Room Designs You’ll Be Obsessed With

Skoolies: Living Out of Converted Buses

The first “skoolie,” aka a retired school bus, I ever toured in was built by a man named Rio.

When I met him, he lived in one on a remote beach in Baja California, in Mexico. The scene resembled a clich paradise movie plot: Each day when he finished kayaking with dolphins on the Sea of Cortez, he would build a fire in his wood stove and start making bracelets, which he would sell for a little extra cash. What a life!

Rio’s skoolie covered all his basic needs but was a little rough around the edges. Other skoolies I’ve been in are more refined, and some even resemble mini luxury apartments. But still, living in a skoolie is a minimalist lifestyle that isn’t for everyone.

If you’re imagining a carefree life on the open road and thinking about DIY building or buying a skoolie, here are some points to keep in mind.

What Is a Skoolie?

A skoolie is an old school bus that’s been converted into a mobile home. Some people choose skoolies over RVs or campers because of their structural integrity.

“School buses are designed to survive roll-overs, whereas RVs or campers have, in the past, completely burned to the ground or lost walls due to wind while on the highway,” says Sabrina Bosserman, owner of Phoenix Skool Busses in Mt. Pleasant, Texas.

People also like skoolies because they’re often cheaper than an RV and customizable. Plus, many buyers appreciate the environmental benefits of repurposing a vehicle that would otherwise be junked.

They also have excellent off-grid capabilities. You can add a large solar array to the roof, plus there’s plenty of room for extra water tanks and other accessories.

Conversely, here’s what people don’t like about skoolies:

• They’re usually not geared for highways;
• They get poor fuel mileage;
• They can be difficult to drive;
• Their previous use and age means they’re more prone to mechanical issues;
• They’re harder to insure;
• Some campgrounds and national parks won’t let them in.

How Much Does a Skoolie Cost?

It varies, but most people end up spending upwards of $25,000 for materials, appliances and tools, plus the price of the bus and any mechanical repairs. If you aren’t qualified to do electricity, plumbing or welding, count on more for hiring skilled labor.

“I would say that to buy a safe, well-done skoolie one can expect to pay anywhere from $30,000 to $100,000, depending on the amenities you’re looking for,” says Bosserman. Purchasing a complete one from a builder like Phoenix Skool Busses generally costs $50,000 or more. Base rates of some other companies start at $100,000.

How To Build a Skoolie?

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Choose your bus style

The main body types are a dog nose, where the engine is in the front under a hood, and a flat nose.

Pros and cons of dog-nose school buses:

• More widely available;
• Drive more like a car;
• Engine doesn’t take up floor space;
• More of a pain to paint;
• Look more like a school bus, which can be a problem getting into RV parks.

Pros and cons of flat-nose school buses:

• More powerful, if it’s a model with the engine in the back (aka a pusher);
• More in-demand and thus harder to find for sale;
• Two additional wheel wells to plan around;
• More difficult to drive.

Shop around for a bus

When looking at potential buses to buy, don’t just opt for the cheapest one, says Mitchell Rosko, owner of Paved to Pines. Instead, focus on ones in better shape even if they cost a bit more. Make sure you’re building your investment atop a decent foundation.

Before buying, it’s imperative to look at it in person and get it inspected by a licensed heavy-duty mechanic, not just a mechanical friend. Steer clear of rust, which often leads to a major money pit. Then, Rosko says, “Test drive the thing. Put it in reverse and back it up. Take it on the highway if you can. Do it all, because this is a large investment.”

Also, make sure it has a transmission geared for highway speeds. And if possible, choose a bus that mostly has screws vs. rivets. That will make life easier when it comes to gutting it.

Plan your layout

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You’ll find many design plans available online, so that’s a good place to start looking for ideas. Consider your priorities. Do you want a large bedroom, or extra desk/counter space for working from home? Because the tallest part of the bus is in the middle, that’s often where people put the shower.

Also, make sure to take the wheel wells and gas tanks into account, says Bosserman. It’s common for buyers to realize too late you can’t route plumbing in those areas.

Gut it

Remove just about everything from the inside, including the factory floor and ceiling, to ensure there are no leaks, rust or mold. Make sure to wear proper personal protective equipment (PPE). Recycle the metal to make a few bucks and avoid trips to the dump.

Build it

This takes anywhere from a few months to a few years, depending on how much time you can dedicate to it. “It’s very difficult to build these and many people give up,” says Bosserman. “Try to do at least one thing a day to stay motivated.”

Also:

• Use a service like Noah RDI to inspect and certify your build’s safety;
• If you aren’t skilled in plumbing and electrical, make sure to hire someone who is;
• When choosing materials like flooring, keep in mind it will likely need to function in many different climates.

Things To Consider for Living Your ‘Bus Life’

While you won’t be paying rent, you must account for other expenses including gas, parking, campgrounds, maintenance, repairs and insurance. That last one can be difficult to get for skoolies.

“To better your chances of getting insurance, avoid using tiny wood stoves, installing roof decks or raising the roof,” says Bosserman.

Another big hurdle can be finding a place to park since some RV parks don’t allow skoolies. Keeping the outside of your bus presentable can help with this.

Finally, living in tight quarters can be difficult for some people, physically and mentally. Before embarking on a skoolie build, rent an RV, camper or van to make sure you actually like the lifestyle.

Maintaining Your Skoolie

Budget extra for maintenance costs during the first year for problems traditional inspection cannot catch, like seals and air lines that break after you start using them. Then stay on top of keeping everything in working order.

“The best thing you can do for your skoolie is preventative maintenance,” says Bosserman. “Correctional maintenance can be extremely expensive.”

Have a mechanic look it over at least once or twice a year, and plan for at least $3,000 in yearly maintenance.

Also, if you stow it for an extended period, make sure to prep it first. Throw away old food, drain the plumbing systems, connect it to a trickle charger and removing lithium batteries (if part of the solar system) so they’re not exposed to extreme heat and cold.

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How Long Do Christmas Trees Last?

There’s nothing more disappointing than a Christmas tree that doesn’t make it through the season. Most last indoors for about a month before the actual holiday and two weeks after, but the exact length depends on a variety of factors.

We spoke with several Christmas tree experts who offered the following tips on increasing the longevity of your tree this holiday season.

Visit a Reputable Vendor

Where and how a Christmas tree is grown can affect how long it lasts. Purchase yours from a reputable business known for selling quality trees.

Greg Walsh of Greg’s Trees in New York City buys his trees directly from growers and visits all their farms. “Watch out for secondary markets because you don’t know how fresh the trees are and when they were cut,” he says. “It’s best to deal with a local place, not big box stores that typically cut trees early in October.”

He also looks for the greenest growers who don’t use pesticides. Don’t hesitate to ask the tree seller where the trees came from and when they were harvested.

Choose the Right Type of Tree

The tree species you pick can affect how long it lives.

Fraser firs last the longest, with some surviving up to two months, according to Walsh. They also have a lovely scent and strong branches to hold ornaments.

Douglas firs and balsam firs also offer good longevity due to their strong branches. On the other hand, white pine trees and scotch pine trees tend to shed their needles faster.

Choose the Freshest Tree

Going directly to the source is a great way to ensure you take home a long-lasting tree.

“If you have the ability to go visit a local Christmas tree farm, that will hands down be the freshest tree possible because you cut it yourself that day,” says Jesse Jimerson of Piper Mountain Christmas Tree Farm in Maine. “We operate a choose-and-cut tree farm where families get a saw and go hike amongst our 30-plus acres of Christmas tree fields to find their perfect tree.”

If you purchase a tree at a lot, you can still check the freshness. The needles should be dark green versus pale olive-colored, which indicates dryness.

Karen Musgrave of Hicks Nurseries in Westbury, New York, suggests running your hands over the branches and shaking the tree a bit. “If few needles fall off, the tree is likely fresh,” he says. “If many needles fall off, the tree may be too dry and won’t last.”

She also suggested lifting up the tree. If it feels light, it may already be dried out. Finally, Walsh says to look at the bottom of the tree and the stump to make sure it isn’t too dark. A fresh-cut tree will look lighter and fresh, but a dark, black stump is a bad sign.

Transport It Home Safely

Be careful on the ride home, because any damage can reduce the amount of time the tree lives.

“When transporting the tree, try not to expose it to heavy wind, like on the roof of a car or in the back of a pickup truck,” says Joseph Demkovich, Sr., a certified tree safety expert and director of franchise operations and safety at Monster Tree Service. “This can accelerate the drying process.”

If you must bring it home on a car roof or in a pickup truck bed, wrap it with a tarp or similar covering.

Prep the Tree Properly

After purchasing your tree, cut one to two inches off the bottom to open it up and trim away stray branches.

“If you’re not able to put the tree up right away, leave it in a cool, shaded area outdoors in a bucket of water,” Musgrave says. “Live trees are like cut flowers, they need to be kept in water to survive.”

Set It Up in a Safe Spot

Avoid setting up your tree near a heat source like a fireplace, heater, heating vents or radiator because that will quickly dry it out. Jimerson even recommends running a humidifier near your tree if you live in an extremely dry climate.

“Make sure your Christmas tree is properly installed in a sturdy stand that can hold plenty of water,” Musgrave says. And don’t put it in front of a window. Besides blocking natural light and heat from entering the home, it can dry out your tree prematurely.

Keep It Watered

A tree can’t survive without adequate water. Once you bring it home, place it in a tree stand with a large water capacity and water it immediately. Proper hydration maintains needle moisture and the freshness of your tree. A six-foot tree will need about one gallon of water every other day.

“The tree drinks a lot of water during the first day or two,” said Walsh. “If you forget about the water, it will dry up and the tree will close off.” He suggested using Christmas Tree Preserver, a product you pour into the water to turn it into a gel that lasts about a month. This keeps the tree well-hydrated.

Decorate It With Care

Your decorations can also affect how long your tree lasts. Walsh warns against decorating it too quickly. “Once the tree is in the stand,” he says, “leave it alone for a day and let it settle before decorating because the lights can pull on the branches if decorated too early.”

Also, it’s important to decorate the tree with lights rated for indoor use that don’t create too much heat. LED lights are best. If you have heavy ornaments, pick a tree with sturdy branches.

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