There are always those items you pull out year after year, but no longer love — and never wear. “Look at that raincoat — or all seven of those raincoats — and ask yourself, ‘Are they worthy of storage?’ ” says Michele Vig, founder and chief organizer of Neat Little Nest.
Paring down doesn’t take as long as you think if you do it each season, Vig says. The longer you wait, the more onerous the task becomes. All the more reason to keep up with it!
Can’t quite part with something yet? There’s a bonus to hanging on until next year: Consignment shops won’t usually buy out of season. Store the summer items you’re undecided about together, and maybe the money you could make will help you make the hard decision come spring.
Just like your car’s engine depends on oil to keep it running smoothly, your gas-powered chainsaw engine needs oil to operate at its best. Different chainsaws require different oils, and using the wrong oil or not enough oil can cause major problems.
Knowing the available chainsaw oil options, learning how to choose the right one and determining the right fuel/oil ratio can help ensure your chainsaw runs smoothly every time.
Why Is Chainsaw Oil Important?
According to Nancy Egelhoff of Egelhoff Lawnmower Service, Inc., oil keeps a gas-powered chainsaw engine’s parts moving smoothly. “If you don’t have oil, you could destroy the engine,” she says. “If there’s no oil in the cylinder and piston of the engine, it will heat up so badly that it will score the cylinder and piston, and you will ruin the saw.”
Egelhoff says the damage might not be immediate. Some customers have seen damage occur as much as six months after they’ve forgotten to put oil in their chainsaw.
Common Issues if Chainsaw Oil Is Bad
Chainsaw engine oil can go bad. Two-cycle oil is good for up to five years when sealed, and many manufacturers list the oil’s shelf life on the container. Once opened, that oil will only have a shelf life of two years.
When you open a container, record the date on the container so you can throw out the oil if it’s not used within two years. Exposing oil to drastic temperature changes and moisture can also make it go bad.
Deterioration of engine parts, including the carburetor, gasket and fuel line.
Overheating, stalling or shutting down.
Operation and performance problems including power loss.
Vapor lock and problems restarting.
Choosing Chainsaw Oil
When shopping for chainsaw engine oil, you may notice that some brands cost more than others. While this oil is all basically the same, Egelhoff highlights the importance of buying a product you can trust. If you see a real deal on engine oil that’s much less expensive than name-brand oil, it could be a lower quality product.
“If it’s an off-brand, you don’t know where it’s made, and the manufacturer might not back their product,” she says.
When choosing chainsaw engine oil, you’ll need to know if you have a two-cycle or four-cycle engine.
Four-cycle engine
With a four-cycle engine, you’ll put oil and gas into separate reservoirs. Four-stroke oil goes in four-cycle engines. It contains special additives and base oils that support the stages of the four-stroke engine (the intake, compression, power and exhaust stroke).
Two-cycle engine and the gas-to-oil ratio
For a two-cycle engine, you must mix gas and oil together in a specific ratio. Old chainsaws, manufactured prior to 2003, require a 32:1 ratio. Chainsaws manufactured after 2002 usually require a 40:1 or 50:1 ratio. Check the two-cycle engine housing to see if it specifies the appropriate ratio. If you can’t find it there, refer to the owner’s manual.
Vince Christofora, owner of Woodstock Hardware in Woodstock, New York offers this advice. “One thing we do for our customers who buy a chainsaw that requires an oil/gas mix is we have them buy a gas can and we write the formula right on the can with a big black Sharpie. Then, the next time they need to make the mixture, they can dump in the right amount of oil and take the can to the gas station and pump in the right amount of gas.”
Here’s what can go wrong if you don’t have the right gas-to-oil ratio:
Not enough oil in the gas mixture results in not enough lubrication inside the engine. The chainsaw will not run properly and you will damage the engine.
Too much oil in the gas mixture can produce a smoky exhaust, oil leaking out of the muffler and even loss of power. This can cause the chainsaw to shut down.
If it is an emergency and you do not know the proper gas-to-oil ratio, you are better off mixing too much oil than not enough.
To simplify things and avoid the whole gas-to-oil ratio issue, Egelhoff says many of her customers buy Stihl MotoMix, a premixed fuel/oil product.
“There are several things that make this a brilliant product,” she says. “There’s no ethanol, and that’s the worst thing for small engines since it deteriorates lines, loses its spark very quickly and can separate out so you’re introducing both water and gas into the engine.” Stihl MotoMix has a two-year shelf life.
How To Check Chainsaw Engine Oil
If your chainsaw has a two-cycle engine and you’ve properly mixed the gas and oil, checking your oil is as simple as verifying you have plenty of the gas mixture in the tank.
“Some chainsaws have a translucent tank so you can easily see the level of the gas mixture in the fuel tank,” Christofora says. “For those that do not, add some fuel and then check the fuel level by looking in the tank opening. If you are doing a small job a half a tank of fuel will be more than enough. If you have a big job or long day ahead of you, you may want to fill the tank right to the top.”
Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and reinsert it.
Pull out the dipstick again and look to see where it’s completely covered in oil. This indicates your oil level.
How To Change Chainsaw Engine Oil
The exact steps to take when changing your chainsaw fuel/oil will depend on the model, but the following steps outline the general process:
If the chainsaw won’t be used for more than 30 days, drain the fuel tank. You can drain the old fuel/oil mixture into a gas can. (Remember, the oil is mixed with gas and this mixture needs to be stored in a gas-appropriate container.) You can then dispose of the mixture at most local hazardous waste centers.
Once the fuel tank is drained, tighten the gas cap and let the chainsaw run until it stops.
The next time you use the chainsaw, prepare a fresh gas/oil mixture.
Add that mixture to the fuel tank and tighten the fuel cap.
If you’re working with a four-cycle engine, you will need to change the oil because it’s separate from the gas:
Place a container, like an oil pan or an old plastic storage container, underneath the oil tank and open the oil tank cap.
Wait for all the oil to drain into the container.
Refill with fresh oil and close the cap.
Wipe up any spilled oil.
It’s always wise to refer to your owner’s manual for details and directions specific to your chainsaw.
Bar-and-Chain Oil Basics
Besides chainsaw engine oil, you’ll also need to keep your chainsaw supplied with bar-and-chain oil. This helps keep the chain lubricated, makes it easier to cut and helps keep your chainsaw from wearing out quickly.
Bar-and-chain oil types
Bar-and-chain oil comes in two types: summer and winter. Egelhoff explains that summer and winter oils have different viscosity. Winter oil is thinner, allowing it to run smoothly even in cold temperatures and when stored for awhile. Summer oil is thicker, heavier and formulated to work in hot conditions.
How to check bar-and-chain oil
A chainsaw uses bar-and-chain oil as it runs, and you’ll need to add about one tank of this each time you go through a tank of fuel. It’s easiest to keep up with your bar-and -chain oil by filling the reservoir every time you fill up the fuel tank. Many chainsaws have a bar-and-chain oil reservoir with a level gauge that lets you see how much oil is in the reservoir.
Note: Biodegradable, biobased, chainsaw oils (bar-and-chain and engine oils) have become popular in recent years because of the environmental impact of petroleum-based oil products. Consider these more earth-friendly products when buying oil for your chainsaw.
As summer gives way to fall, it’s time to protect your outdoor furniture from the elements. If you have the storage space, consider moving patio furniture to a garage or shed. Or if you prefer, cover those items with a lightweight tarp.
Of course, if you live in an area with warmer fall temperatures, you may well want to leave your furniture out for a bit longer, especially if you enjoy spending time around a fire pit.
Almost all homes built in the U.S. have air conditioning of some type. Whether you’re considering central air for a new build, replacing an existing unit or retrofitting an existing home for the first time, here is some background and insight to help you understand the process.
Definitions
Before we start, let’s go over a few terms you need to know.
Central air conditioner
A central air conditioner cools air in one location, then uses the air handling capabilities of the furnace to distribute that cool air throughout the home. This distinguishes it from window or wall air conditioners or mini-split systems, all of which cool relatively small areas and rely on multiple units to cool the whole house.
In the U.S., most single-family homes with central air have a split system. This means the unit is split into two key components, an evaporator coil inside the home and a compressor outside.
Heat pumps are another form of central air conditioning. But for this article, we’re focusing on projects that connect central air to a furnace. If you are considering a heat pump, note the pricing and steps involved will be different.
Sizing
When discussing air conditioners, you’ll often hear “size” mentioned. This refers to cooling power of the air conditioning unit, not the physical dimensions.
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) professionals use a measure called a British thermal unit (Btu), the energy required to lower the temperature of a pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. In their vernacular, 12,000 Btu is described as a ton. So a 2.5 ton air conditioner equals 30,000 Btu.
Efficiency
Efficiency is measured as the seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). Higher SEER units are more efficient, usually by employing a two-stage compressor and variable-speed blower. In both instances, this means the air conditioner will consume less energy when the temperature is lower.
Central Air Installation: Can I DIY?
We’re big fans of the DIY ethos here at Family Handyman. But we also recognize that some projects should only be tackled by professionals or DIYers with extensive previous experience.
For the vast majority of homeowners, central air conditioning installation involves too many specialized skills and too high a risk of failure to attempt without professional help. This is due to the skills required, the bureaucratic wrangling of permits, licensing requirements and the potential voiding of warranties if you install the components incorrectly.
If you have your heart set on DIY, you can do most of the work yourself. But handling the refrigerant will require a licensed pro. And in some locations, only a licensed electrician can connect the electrical to the service panel.
Working With Professional HVAC Installers
When talking to contractors, ask questions to learn how they’ll approach the project. And pay attention to the questions they’re asking you! An installer should ask clarifying questions so your choices and preferences will be reflected in their estimate and the finished product.
Planning
Installing central air conditioning is a big project, and doing it right means investing some time in planning. Ask your contractor to review their process, and verify that they’ll be handling any required permits or other essential paperwork.
Talk to your contractor about how much you prioritize energy efficiency versus upfront cost. This is also a great time to go over the location of the condenser unit and what kind of thermostat you’d like.
Sizing
Your contractor will help identify the proper size central air conditioner for your home. This is essential because a unit that’s too small will run almost constantly, while a unit that’s too large will cool the house too fast and shut down before completing a full cycle.
In the latter scenario, the rapid on/off is rough on the system. It can cause the evaporator coil to freeze over, and a frozen coil won’t allow air to circulate. That means an oversized air conditioner can actually be less effective at cooling than an undersized unit.
To determine the right unit for your home, your HVAC installer will perform a calculation called a “Manual-J.” This will cover all the factors we’ve discussed and more, giving the most accurate sizing possible.
However, we know that many homeowners want a rough idea of what size they need in advance. So here’s a “back-of-the napkin” estimate of central air conditioner size: Multiply the square footage of your home’s conditioned space by 25 to give you the Btu required, then divide by 12,000 to get the tonnage.
Remember, though, this is only a rough estimate, and there are many variables. If the first floor of your home has 12-foot-tall ceilings, the air conditioner will have more air to cool. And if you have lots of southern-exposure windows, they’ll be more sun and natural heat to deal with.
Estimates
Once you’ve gone over the basic plan and discussed model options, the contractor should give you an estimate. As always, get estimates in writing from multiple vendors. The only exception would be if you’re putting air conditioning into a new build, since your builder likely will handle it.
Whether dealing with a builder or independent HVAC contractor, don’t be afraid to ask clarifying questions or request expense breakouts. Even if the contractor can’t itemize everything, they should be willing to communicate enough to make you more comfortable with the process.
The Central Air Installation Process
The installation should take about a day to complete. Below is a summary of the main steps.
For homes with existing furnaces or air conditioning, any duct work should be minimal, usually no more than an additional return line.
If you do need to have ducts installed, work with your contractor to find ways to hide them in closets or soffits to avoid extensive drywall repairs.
For new builds, duct work should be completed before the drywall is installed.
Interior unit
The evaporator coil fits inside the furnace plenum.
The plenum is the section of the furnace on either side of the air handler, where air is brought in and sent back out into the house.
The evaporator coil will go into the supply plenum, which can be thought of as the “outflow” of the furnace.
Exterior unit
The placement of the exterior unit is determined by a few factors, including:
The length of run to the interior unit and electrical service panel;
How level the ground is;
How close the noisy exterior unit will be to windows or doors;
Code-required distances from gas or water meters (refer to your local building department for specifics).
Connect the line set
The two halves of a split system are connected by a pair of copper pipes, which form the path the refrigerant will cycle through.
The path of the line set will largely be determined by the most direct route from the evaporator to the condenser.
If you have any concerns about the route, bring them up to the contractor as early in the process as possible.
The penetration to the exterior should be sealed to prevent water infiltration.
Connect the Electrical Supply
The condenser unit will need an exterior shutoff installed.
The electrical line will run from the condenser to the shutoff, and from the shutoff to the electrical service panel.
If your circuit panel is already maxed out, you may need to upgrade it to handle the additional load of the air conditioner.
If the project was planned properly, any work on the panel should already be included in the project estimate.
There will also be a low-voltage wire connecting the condensing unit to the furnace so it can be controlled by the thermostat.
Condensate Drain Line
All air conditioners generate condensation, much like the sides of a glass of ice water. That condensation needs to be drained.
Units located in a basement typically run to a floor drain.
Units located in attics may pipe water outside, or may use a drain pan that allows water to evaporate — the same way refrigerators allow condensation to evaporate.
Thermostat
If you’re installing central air conditioning in a new build, you’ll need to choose a thermostat.
If you’re installing central air conditioning into an existing home, you may need to upgrade the thermostat to one that can control cooling as well.
This is one step of the process that’s a great place for a little DIY effort.
Some homeowners purchase a bare-bones thermostat for the install, and then upgrade to a programmable or smart thermostat on their own.
How Much Does Central Air Installation Cost?
As with any large project, prices vary depending on local market and the specifications of the job. A typical split system central air installation using an existing furnace should cost between $3,000 and $5,500 for labor and materials. On average that cost will be split about 60/40, with the majority falling under labor.
It’s possible to purchase the AC system on your own and ask an HVAC pro to install it for you. But keep in mind you’ll likely be paying full retail instead of getting a commercial discount, so the overall cost of the job may not be any less than the contractor’s estimate. You’ll also have to do the sizing on your own, and you’ll bear the responsibility if there are any issues with the equipment.
If you’re replacing an existing central air conditioning system, expect an additional charge to remove and dispose of the old system and refrigerant, probably in the $150 to $200 range. If you’re installing a furnace and air conditioning, the cost of each component will usually be discounted, although the overall price of the job will be higher.
Conclusion
Installing a central air conditioner is a great way to boost the value of your home while maintaining a comfortable environment for you and your loved ones. It’s a complicated installation, but hopefully this overview helps you understand the process.
Don’t hesitate to ask questions of your installer along the way to make sure your central air conditioner installation goes as smoothly as possible!
Cooking is one of the most important considerations on any camping packing list. You need something to eat, something to cook with and something to eat with. The specifics depend on where you intend to camp and what you intend to cook.
A typical car camping site will usually feature a grill or fire pit ready for use. Backpackers will need to build a fire and carry lightweight supplies. A basic campfire cooking kit should include the following items.
If you’ve ever walked out on your deck or porch and noticed an intricate squiggle pattern on the wood, you may have wondered what caused it. Look closely, and you’ll notice the tiny zig-zags are actually quite beautiful. So who exactly is this miniature artist, and why are they leaving a mark on your porch railing?
What Causes This Pattern?
The pattern is caused by snails! But it’s not a mucus trail from their slimy movements, as you might assume. Those look more like thin silvery lines. The small winding pattern seen here is caused by their mouths.
A snail mouth is a flexible band containing thousands of microscopic teeth, called a radula. The radula scrapes up, or rasps food, leaving this squiggly path behind as the snail slowly feasts.
The Conditions
If you see snails or evidence of snails in your yard, you most likely live in a humid climate, or a place where it just rained. Moisture is a key requirement for snails. They often hide in dark, moist areas during the day, like underneath rocks or your deck. At night, they come out to feed. That’s why you might discover the mysterious pattern in the daytime, with nary a snail in sight.
So what exactly are they eating off your porch or deck railing? Algae or mold, most likely. Herbivorous snails eat many types of plant leaves, flowers and fruits, as well as fungi and algae. So when algae or mold grows on your deck, snails gather for a feast.
But you might even find snail-eating tracks on a clean, painted wood deck or porch. Snails need daily calcium in their diet to strengthen their shells, which they usually get from feeding on limestone. But if limestone isn’t available, they’ll sometimes eat the paint right off your deck, because many paints and coatings contain calcium carbonate.
The Culprits
The snails munching on your porch are most likely common garden snails. There are more than 500 species of land snails in North America, but the garden snail (cornu aspersum) is the most common.
Land snails take advantage of whatever food they find within crawling distance. So if they can reach algae or fungi growing on your porch, chances are they’ll stop for a snack.
The Remedy
If you want to rid your deck or porch of these slimy creatures, keep it clean and dry. Clear away dead leaves (another favorite snail snack) and pine needles, which can block the sunlight and create an ideal environment for algae, mold and mildew.
Give your deck or porch a deep cleaning at least once a year with a pressure washer and deck cleaner. When it rains, ensure everything drains properly so water doesn’t pool on the wood. You can also spread salt or other types of snail bait to rid your entire garden of snails and slugs.
Gutters can’t do their job if they aren’t properly installed. Fix them now, before water damages the roof, fascia boards or your home’s foundation.
If gutters are sagging, install gutter brackets to secure them at the proper angle — at least 1/4-inch of slope for every 10 feet of gutter. Then run water through them with a hose, looking for clogs and leaks. To repair leaking end caps, clean them thoroughly and apply a gutter seal product like Flex Seal Brite Liquid Rubber Sealant Coating.
Check your downspouts, too. Connections should be secure and water should drain away from the house. If necessary, install gutter extensions.
