The Truth Behind Why Some Coins Have Grooves And Others Don’t

Digital currency is becoming increasingly important as apps, digital wallets, and access to debit and credit card readers evolve. However, physical currency still plays an important role in our lives.

Still, coins pass through our hands all the time with not so much as a second thought. One design you might not have even noticed to this point. But anyone who has sorted loose change or rolled coins for a bank has likely felt the difference between a smooth edge and a ridged one.

This isn’t a minting mistake or some small detail. Ridged coins date back centuries and are important to modern U.S. currency. Learn why some coins have ridges and others don’t, how coin design has evolved, and modern use of ridged coins.

Why Do Some Coins Have Ridges?

Coin ridges, more commonly referred to as “reeding,” are small grooves along the edge of coins. They’re added during the minting process, originally to prevent metal thieves from tampering with coins.

Early designed coins were made of expensive metals like gold and silver, making them targets for “shaving.” Tiny amounts of metal were scraped from the edges of the coins. Thieves would keep the material they shaved off and still spend the smaller coin at full value.

But with reeding, it would be obvious if a coin was tampered with, as shaving even a small portion of a ridged coin would make it immediately apparent if it had been tampered with. No ridges, no good.

Coins are no longer made of extremely valuable metals like gold and silver. However, the U.S. Mint continues reeding on some coins.

Quarters and dimes, which are more valuable, have ridges. Lower-value coins, like pennies and nickels, do not. Why?

Historically, less valuable coins used less valuable materials. Makes sense, right? Because these coins were made of cheaper material, shaving was less appealing to thieves. The cost and effort outweighed the potential gain, so the ridges weren’t added.

How The U.S. Mint Adds Ridges To Coins

Ridges are added to coins during the striking stage of mint production when large metal coils are cut into flat discs, called “blanks.” Heat softens the blanks, then they are cleaned and prepped for shaping, passing through an “upsetting mill” to raise a rim around the edge.

The blank becomes a planchet, and ridges are formed during the final striking stage. The planchet is placed into a press to imprint the coin’s front and back designs, and ridged edge via a collar that gives it the shape.

Dimes have 118 reeds, and quarters have 119.

Do Ridges Still Serve A Purpose Today?

Yes, ridges, or reeding, still are valuable. Ridges help identify coins by touch, so someone, or something, sorting change without looking can quickly tell a dime from a penny or a quarter from a nickel based on the edge alone.

The most obvious benefit is for individuals with visual impairments and anyone handling coins quickly. Cashiers, collectors, and everyday users benefit from the ability to distinguish coins without relying on visual inspection.

Consistency is also important as coins carry historical elements. Reeding maintains continuity and trust in the system and keeps coin design familiar across generations.

Sources

• United States Mint, “Coin Specifications,” official U.S. Mint website
• United States Mint, “How Coins Are Made,” official U.S. Mint website

RELATED:

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling

The post The Truth Behind Why Some Coins Have Grooves And Others Don’t appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: The Truth Behind Why Some Coins Have Grooves And Others Don’t

Faulty Air Bags Found in Hyundai and Chevrolet Cars Banned After Deadly Explosions

If you’ve been in a bad accident, you know firsthand that airbags can save lives. However, this is only true when they’re functioning properly. Unfortunately, there have been several fatal crashes recently in which a specific type of airbag malfunctioned. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) put out a statement warning drivers. The organization has also said that they’re looking to ban these airbags.

Why Does the NHTSA Want to Ban These Air Bags?

According to the most recent brief, the NHTSA reports 12 crashes where “substandard Chinese air bag inflators” played a role. Per the report, “all 12 crashes involved Chinese frontal driver air bag inflators manufactured by Jilin Province Detiannuo Safety Technology Co., Ltd. (DTN) that ruptured during a crash.” The accidents resulted in ten fatalities and two severe injuries.

Typically, if you’re in an accident bad enough that it triggers your airbags, they inflate to protect you. However, in these crashes, the “inflators exploded, sending large metal fragments into drivers’ chests, necks, eyes and faces.”

How to Know If Your Vehicle Is Safe?

Thus far, “all known crashes have occurred in Chevrolet Malibu and Hyundai Sonata vehicles.” However, the NHTSA “does not have information to confirm the risk is limited to these makes and models.”

In order to protect yourself, the NHTSA “urges used vehicle owners and buyers to learn their vehicle’s history and ensure the vehicle has genuine air bag inflators.” If you don’t know your vehicle’s history, the organization says you should get a history report.

Additionally, your vehicle “should be inspected if it was in a previous crash with an air bag deployment since 2020 and was not repaired by one of the manufacturer’s dealerships.” Take your vehicle to a “reputable mechanic immediately to ensure the air bag is a legitimate replacement equivalent to the original.”

Is There a Fix Yet?

Per the NHTSA, “if a vehicle is found to have one of these DTN inflators, it should not be driven until the inflator is replaced with genuine parts.” The organization also says that owners who have “a vehicle with one of these suspect inflators…should contact their local Homeland Security Investigations office or FBI field office to report it or submit an online complaint to the National Intellectual Property Rights Coordination Center.”

When it comes to the big picture, the “NHTSA is still investigating how many of these inflators have illegally entered the United States.” Based on those findings, the organization “will determine whether a permanent ban on U.S. sales of the inflator is required.”

Source

Trump’s Transportation Department Weighs Permanent Ban on U.S. Sale of Chinese Air Bag Inflators Involved in Fatal Crashes, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2026.

The post Faulty Air Bags Found in Hyundai and Chevrolet Cars Banned After Deadly Explosions appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Faulty Air Bags Found in Hyundai and Chevrolet Cars Banned After Deadly Explosions

All the Auto Maintenance Tasks You Can & Should DIY

Check Fluid Levels

The attendant at a full-service gas station might check your oil, but if you mostly go to self-serve stations, that’s something you can and should do yourself. Besides that, it’s not a bad idea to check the transmission fluid if your vehicle has automatic transmission. Look under the hood, and you’ll find clearly marked dipsticks for each fluid.

It’s best to do these inspections when the engine is cool and the car is parked on a level surface. Pull the dipstick, clean it with a rag, re-insert it all the way and pull it out again. If the level is below the bottom notch, or the fluid has a strange color (unusually dark or light), it’s time for a fluid change and/or a possible date with a mechanic to diagnose malfunctions.

Change the Oil

“Changing your own oil sounds intimidating,” says long-time mechanic Steve Haney. “But it’s really just a few tools and an hour of your time. Using good oil and a quality filter, you can skip the shop’s labor charge and keep your engine healthy for less.”

This job does require you to get under the vehicle to access the oil drain plug and, on older models, the oil filter (on newer models, the filter is in the engine compartment). If there isn’t enough clearance, you may have to block up the front wheels, and for this, Haney advises using a jack from a reputable manufacturer or drive-on ramps that are rated for the weight of your vehicle, plus a “chock block” for the rear wheels once the vehicle is on the ramps. Always replace the filter when you change the oil (you’ll need a filter wrench to unscrew it), and collect the old oil so you can take it to a disposal station.

Check Tire Pressure and Inflate the Tires

Every car should carry a gauge for checking tire pressure, but if yours doesn’t, you can use the gauge on the air dispenser at any gas station. You’ll find the recommended tire pressure on a label affixed to the side of the driver’s side door. “Properly inflated tires improve fuel economy, extend tire life, and help the car drive better,” says Haney.

If the pressure is low, you can inflate the tires at the gas station, but an even better idea is to carry a portable inflator that plugs into the vehicle’s lighter socket. That way, you won’t get stuck if your tires lose pressure while you’re driving out in the country.

Check Tire Tread Depth

Tread depth is just as important as air pressure to a tire’s performance, and while you can buy a tool to measure this accurately, the spare change in your pocket can tell you all you need to know. Take out a penny and insert it into the tread with Lincoln’s head upside down. The top of his head is 2/32″ from the edge of the coin, so if the tread covers that, you’re fine. If you can see the top of his head, however, it’s time for new tires.

You might not even need to do the penny test, and in a few years, you might not be able to, since penny production has been discontinued. Many tires have wear indicators that are small raised strips inserted inside the treads. When the surface of the tire aligns with the strip, the tire is worn out.

Replace Wiper Blades

Wiper blades wear out more quickly than you’d expect, especially during the summer when sun and heat degrade the rubber. The best time to replace them is in the fall, before the snow starts to fly and the roads become slushy, but if you see streaks on your windshield when the wipers are working, don’t wait. Do it now.

You don’t need tools to change the wiper blades; most have a self-release lever that you can depress with your fingers. The most important thing is to make sure you purchase the right replacement blades, which is why I usually take an old blade with me to the auto parts store to make sure I get an identical match.

Replace Air Filters

“Air filters play a very important role in keeping our engines and our lungs healthy,” advises Haney. “If you’ve seen your filters get replaced before, you know how dirty they can get. Cabin air filters are very easy and straightforward to replace. It’s a task anyone can do in about five to 10 minutes.”

The most challenging part of this task is knowing where the filters are and how to access them, and that information is in your owner’s manual. You’ll also have to buy new filters, but they cost a fraction of what it does to have a service pro do this job.

Diagnose “Check Engine” Light Faults

When the dreaded Check Engine light comes on, do you immediately have to take the car in for service? Maybe not. It may have come on because of something small and easily repaired, says Haney, but that doesn’t mean you can ignore it, or he warns that it could turn into something much bigger and more expensive. On the other hand, the light could signal a condition that will result in serious damage if you keep driving the car.

Rather than taking chances, consider purchasing an inexpensive OBD-II reader (about $25). Plug it into the port located behind the dashboard under the steering wheel with the engine running, and it will display a code that will tell you what the problem is. If it’s a small issue like a plug misfire or a sensor failure, you can take the car in when you have time, rather than having to drop everything and drive directly to the service center.

Replace Brake Pads

This maintenance task isn’t quite as simple as the others, but it can save you hundreds. Ryan Salata, who markets specialty auto parts, says: “One customer cut the cost of brake pads on three cars to under $300 through a combination of YouTube tutorials.” The normal service charge would have been $350 to $500 for each vehicle, he says.

Depending on the vehicle and your skill level, this job will take two to four hours. You need to jack up each wheel in turn, remove the wheel and release the brake caliper so you can lift it. For this last part, you may need to consult YouTube or your owner’s manual for the location of the bolt that holds it. Once you’ve lifted the caliper, simply pop out the old pads, spread anti-squeal paste on the new ones and install them. Retract the caliper piston so you can lower the caliper (I use a C-clamp for this), and put everything back together.

About the Experts

• Steve Haney is the corporate technical sales trainer at Bosch Mobility Aftermarket. He has more than 35 years of hands-on automotive repair experience.
• Ryan Salata is the marketing director at Proform Parts (Specialty Auto Parts USA, Inc.), a company that manufactures high-performance automotive aftermarket components.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

The post All the Auto Maintenance Tasks You Can & Should DIY appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: All the Auto Maintenance Tasks You Can & Should DIY

Clean Your Saw Blades and Router Bits Like a Pro: A Guide

Disassemble the router bits

Before cleaning your router bits, it is very important to remove and separate all moving parts. Router bits with bearings require you to unscrew and remove bearings, screws, and collars. Set these small parts aside in a safe place where they won’t get lost. Buildup often accumulates around bearings and screw threads, so separating these components allows for thorough cleaning and helps prevent rust.

Note: Not all router bits have removable parts. Solid carbide bits can be cleaned as a single piece.

Prepare the cleaning solution

In a shallow plastic container large enough to lay your saw blades flat, prepare one of the following cleaning solutions:

• Option 1: Mix one part Simple Green with three parts water. Do not use Simple Green at full strength, as it can be too harsh on some blade coatings.
• Option 2: Mix one teaspoon dish soap to one quart of water.

Stir to mix well.

Submerge in the cleaning solution

Place the saw blades and/or router bits into the cleaning solution, so they are fully submerged. Let them soak for about 15 minutes to allow the solution to break down the dirt, pitch, sap, and gunk buildup.

Remove buildup

While still in the solution, scrub the saw blades and/or router bits with a nylon or brass stiff-bristle brush to remove buildup. If that’s not enough, switch to a steel scouring pad or a Scotch-Brite pad to remove stubborn buildup. For extremely tough pitch, use a small putty knife to carefully scrape it away, taking care not to damage the carbide tips.

Avoid steel brushes or harsh abrasives as they can damage the cutting edges.

If the buildup of sawdust and pitch is tough to remove, feel free to give it a few sprays of full-strength Simple Green, then scrub with a brass bristle brush or a Scotch-Brite pad.

Rinse and dry well

Remove the blades and/or router bits from the cleaning solution. Rinse them well with water to ensure all residual cleaning solution has been removed. Pat dry with a paper towel or shop rag. To ensure all moisture has been removed, use a hair dryer to fully dry all surfaces of the saw blades and router bits. Pay special attention to router bit bearing holes and threaded areas where moisture can hide.

All parts must be thoroughly dried before reassembly or storage to prevent rust.

Lubricate

When putting router bits back together, apply a drop of lubricating oil to the bearing hole before reinserting the bearing, and to the screw threads before reassembling. This will give your router bit and moving pieces longer life and prevent binding in the future. Wipe away any excess oil with a clean cloth to prevent dust buildup during storage.

Store cleaned and lubricated blades and router bits in a dry place to prevent rust.

FAQ

How often should I clean a saw blade or router bit?

How often you clean your saw blade and router bit depends on how much you use it. Blades and router bits will give you visual cues in the form of dark burn marks on the teeth and the blade plate.

How to know when a saw blade is dull vs dirty?

Dull saw blades require more force to feed, burn/smoke as they cut, and make loud noises. Dirty blades, on the other hand, have visible, sticky pitch buildup on teeth that causes burning. If cleaning the blade doesn’t restore performance, it’s likely the carbide tips are worn or chipped and need sharpening.

What does carbide-tipped mean?

Carbide tips are small, durable tungsten carbide pieces attached to the cutting edges of saw blades and router bits to enhance strength, heat resistance, and sharpness.

The post Clean Your Saw Blades and Router Bits Like a Pro: A Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Clean Your Saw Blades and Router Bits Like a Pro: A Guide

The Only Toilet Broke on the Artemis II Spaceship— Here’s How They Fixed It

We’ve all been there. A friend’s house party. Dinner with the in-laws. A busy gas station. You go to use the toilet, and it just… doesn’t… flush. This level of dread can only be described as a nightmare scenario—one that would instantly have me breaking out in a cold sweat and racing to my phone to panic-search Google for “what to do if your toilet won’t flush” quicker than you could say, “We have lift off!”

Now imagine the same situation happening when you’re hundreds of thousands of miles away from not only the nearest plumber, but the nearest human being. That’s exactly what happened to the astronauts on the Artemis II during their historic lunar flyby this past weekend.

Here at Family Handyman, we’ve seen our fair share of plumbing mishaps, but this is truly out of this world.

What Happened to the Toilet on Artemis II?

On Day 3 onboard the Artemis II’s Orion space capsule, mission specialist Christina Koch reported “a kind of burning heater smell” emitting from the ship’s toilet. As a precaution, ground control asked the crew to limit their toilet use while the cause was investigated. Yes, that meant the crew had to go back to using an old-school method of relieving themselves while they waited for a fix, which involved a diaper/waste bag contraption I would rather not describe in detail.

Artemis II flight director Judd Frieling told reporters on Saturday that there was an issue with dumping waste from the toilet. He stated, “It appears to me that we probably have some frozen urine in the vent line.”

Similar to plumbing in our own homes, frozen pipes can be no joke and cause a myriad of plumbing issues. With the temperature of outer space hovering around -455 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s easy to see how this could happen.

When you find out that you blocked the toilets 200000km away from the nearest plumber pic.twitter.com/8vQDFsVMXJ

— G_Sithole (@GJIVANI) April 4, 2026

How Did They Fix It?

By Day 4 of the flight, mission control devised a somewhat brilliant solution. They proposed rotating the capsule so that the frozen urine faced the sun—much like when I’m too lazy to scrape frost off my car in the morning, so I park it in a sunny spot and wait for it to melt.

This fix appeared to work, partially unclogging the pipe and allowing the toilet to expel some of the stuck urine from the system into space. Ground control and the crew onboard worked together to fully clear the system.

Around midnight, Houston called with a much-anticipated update. “Breaking news—you are go for all types of uses of the toilet,” announced Artemis II’s chief training officer Jacki Mahaffey. Koch replied in excitement, “And the crew rejoices!”

“I’m proud to call myself the space plumber,” Koch joked in a live interview with Fox. Koch added that it may have been an issue with the toilet simply sitting idle for too long and needing some time to warm up.

What Can We Learn

I, for one, am totally inspired by NASA’s response to this issue and the crew’s ability to stay calm and cool under pressure. While I hope to never experience a toilet failure in outer space, it’s a good reminder for what to check if you have toilet issues of your own here on Earth:

• Check for any clogs—something a simple plunger may help fix
• Adjust the float arm in the tank to ensure it doesn’t prematurely cut off the fill valve
• Double-check that the chain hasn’t disconnected and is properly adjusted
• See if the flapper is making a solid connection and isn’t leaking or forming any air bubbles.

And I think we can all agree that keeping calm under pressure when something around the house breaks is key. As Koch put it, “It’s probably the most important piece of equipment onboard, so we were all breathing a sigh of relief when it turned out to be just fine.”

Because at the end of the day, whether you’re in your own bathroom or orbiting the moon—sh*t happens.

RELATED:

• If You See a Blue Stop Sign, Here’s What It Means
• If You Spot This Yellow Device on Your Windshield, You’ve Been Barnacled
• What Do Shoes on Power Lines Mean?

The post The Only Toilet Broke on the Artemis II Spaceship— Here’s How They Fixed It appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: The Only Toilet Broke on the Artemis II Spaceship— Here’s How They Fixed It

Air Fryer Die? How to Know If A Broken Air Fryer Is Salvageable

If you rely on your air fryer often, it can really wreck your day if it stops working. While it’s not a good idea to try to fix it yourself, there are ways to troubleshoot and possibly get it back up and running. Ahead, learn how to do just that, with expert advice from Caleb Caviness of AryCo.

Why Did My Air Fryer Stop Heating Up?

“There are multiple failure points that could happen in an air fryer,” Caviness says. Common issues include an improperly seated basket, dirty heating coils or a blown thermal fuse. Less common, but still possible problems are a broken fan motor, faulty safety sensor or electrical issues.

What to Do If Your Air Fryer Dies

Don’t panic, and follow these troubleshooting steps:

Check the outlet

“Before you blame your fryer, make sure that the outlet itself is working, as kitchen GFCIs are notorious for tripping under the load of an air fryer,” Caviness says. Fix any flipped breakers or press the reset button on a GFCI outlet to fix this problem.

Reseat the basket

Reseat the basket firmly and make sure there’s no food or debris blocking the safety switch from engaging. Make sure you hear or feel the basket click into place, which activates the safety feature and allows the unit to heat up.

Thoroughly clean

Regular cleaning prevents grease or oil from building up on the heating coils. “Grease splatter can bake onto the coil, which creates hot spots that eventually snap the heating element,” Caviness says. To clean, unplug the appliance and use a soft brush to remove any carbonized grease and oil from the heating coil.

Unplug for 30 minutes

Most air fryers have a safety feature that powers the appliance down if overheating. This can happen during extended use or with high temperature settings. Caviness suggests unplugging it for 30 minutes to let the overheat sensors reset.

Investigate the fan

Air fryers rely on fans to circulate hot air and properly cook food. If the fan is failing, you’ll hear a rattling, labored sound, and if it stops working altogether, the unit will be very quiet during use, and food will fail to cook. Buy a new air fryer if this is the case.

Check the plug

“Run your hand down the power cord, and if you feel a soft spot or see browning around the plug area, the internal wires probably melted from high amperage,” Caviness says. It’s time for a replacement if you find this electrical issue.

Consider age

Most air fryers last between two and five years, depending on the quality and frequency of use. High-priced models may last a bit longer, but if your air fryer falls within this time frame, it might be time for a new one.

Can You Get an Air Fryer Repaired?

While you can get an air fryer repaired, it doesn’t make much practical sense. “Most air fryers cost between $60 and $150 and professional electrical labor is usually $80-$120 per hour,” Caviness says. “So, unless it’s a high-end commercial-grade fryer, you’re probably better off just getting a high-quality replacement than paying for labor.”

Trying to repair an air fryer yourself is also not recommended, as it involves high-voltage parts (even when unplugged) and voids the warranty.

How to Tell If an Air Fryer Is Good Quality

Higher prices will generally reflect a higher quality, but look for other features as well, like sturdy, heavy-duty power cords. “Thin cords overheat and can lead to internal failure,” Caviness says.

Also, look for mechanical dials instead of cheap touchscreen interfaces, as these can often withstand heat exposure longer.

Finally, “look for fryers with stainless steel interiors because they hold heat better and are easier to clean than thin non-stick coatings that chip and flake over time,” Caviness says.

About the Expert

• Caleb Caviness is general manager at AryCo, a family‑owned HVAC, electrical and plumbing company in Decatur, Texas.

RELATED:

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling

The post Air Fryer Die? How to Know If A Broken Air Fryer Is Salvageable appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Air Fryer Die? How to Know If A Broken Air Fryer Is Salvageable

EPA To Allow Gas Stations To Dilute Your Gas More… Will It Save You Money or Cost You?

Starting on May 1, E15 gasoline will be more widely available, thanks to a waiver issued by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), which will temporarily halt seasonal restrictions on the use of the higher-ethanol containing fuel.

The move is aimed at lowering gasoline prices, which have escalated since the U.S. began its attacks on Iran earlier this year. But the waiver also comes with some downsides. E15 can damage some engines, plus worsen summer smog— both reasons why it’s currently banned in many places during warmer months.

“Also, E15 can degrade faster than E10, due to the higher ethanol content,” says automotive expert Steve Haney. “It may not be a good idea to fill up with E15 if you do not drive frequently, or if you are going to put your vehicle into storage.”

Here’s what to know about E15 gas, and how it will affect your car, motorcycle, lawn-care equipment and off-road vehicles.

What Is E15 Gas?

E15 is a blend of gasoline that contains 15% ethanol and 85% gasoline. It’s most commonly marketed as Unleaded 88, Regular 88, Clean 88, eBlend and Unleaded 15. While many gas stations sell E15, it’s typically restricted in the summer.

Ethanol is most commonly made from fermenting corn grain. When added to gasoline, it decreases oil consumption and oxygenates fuel, which in some cases can reduce air pollution. According to the US Department of Energy, more than 98% of US gasoline contains ethanol.

How E15 Differs from Regular E10 Gasoline

Standard gasoline in the US is E10, which contains 10% ethanol, whereas E15 contains 15% ethanol.

Why the EPA Is Allowing E15 Gas?

According to the EPA, the waiver is aimed at “fortifying the domestic gasoline supply chain and providing Americans relief at the pumps ahead of the summer driving season.” The waiver starts on May 1 and ends on May 20, though those dates may be extended.

Is E15 Gas Safe for Your Car?

It depends on your vehicle. The majority of cars made after 2000 can handle E15 gasoline, but check your owner’s manual to be sure. Older cars that are designated as “flex-fuel” can also run safely on E85.

Cars and Engines That Should Avoid E15

E15 shouldn’t be used in most pre-2001 vehicles, as it can damage gaskets and create fuel leaks and other mechanical problems. You should also avoid using it with small engines, such as motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles, boats and lawn-care equipment.

Does E15 Affect Fuel Economy?

Yes, it decreases gas mileage by a little less than 2%. “Doing the math here, if the average fuel economy for a modern vehicle is 27 miles per gallon, with E15 gasoline, you can expect to get about 26.5 MPG instead,” says Haney.

Does E15 Damage Your Engine?

It can, if your vehicle was made before 2001. E15 is also damaging to small engines, such as those in motorcycles, ATVs, boats, generators, leaf blowers, chainsaws and lawn mowers — especially if they go several weeks at a time without being used. “This will cause a small engine to run and perform poorly, possibly damaging it beyond repair,” says Haney.

One reason E15 can cause damage is because it’s hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, which causes fuel to separate. Ultimately, that can damage the plastic and rubber parts, like fuel lines, hoses and O-rings, plus corrode and clog carburetors and other parts of the fuel system.

“Ethanol is also hard on aluminum, which many small engines are made out of,” says Haney. “Manufacturers state very clearly in their manuals that using fuels with more than 10% ethanol will void the product’s warranty, so make sure to double check before filling up!”

How Much Money Will E15 Save at the Pump?

It depends on where you live, but in a recent interview, the president of the American Farm Bureau Federation and the Iowa Farm Bureau stated consumers can expect to save around 10 to 30 cents per gallon.

However, other experts aren’t convinced. As University of Minnesota professor Jason Hill recently told PBS, savings at the pump could be negated by higher grocery prices. For example, corn crops reappropriated from animal feed to ethanol production are likely to increase the cost of beef.

There are also indirect costs, such as higher ozone levels during the summer, which can cause heart attacks, respiratory issues and other health problems.

How To Tell If a Gas Pump Is Dispensing E15

Pumps dispensing E15 gasoline are federally required to have a yellow label disclosing its use. Also look for E15’s more common names: Unleaded 88, Regular 88, Clean 88, eBlend and Unleaded 15. E85Prices.com also shows which gas stations offer E15.

What To Do If You Accidentally Put E15 in an Incompatible Car

If you accidentally put E15 gasoline into an older, or otherwise incompatible car, it’s still okay to drive. But once your tank is halfway empty, fill it back up with standard E10 gas. “If you put E15 into a small engine like a motorcycle, you should play it on the safe side and drain the tank, then refill with E10 gasoline,” says Haney.

About the Experts

Steve Haney is a corporate technical trainer at Bosch Mobility Aftermarket, and has more than 35 years of hands-on automotive repair experience.

Sources:

EPA, “EPA Fortifies Domestic Fuel Supply” 2026

U.S. Department of Energy, “Ethanol Fuel Basics” 2026

PBS, “EPA approves sale of a higher-ethanol fuel to try to lower gas prices” 2026

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

The post EPA To Allow Gas Stations To Dilute Your Gas More… Will It Save You Money or Cost You? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: EPA To Allow Gas Stations To Dilute Your Gas More… Will It Save You Money or Cost You?

3 Ways to Cut Tile Every DIYer Can Master

Manual snap cutter

The manual snap cutter is the most user-friendly tool, though it is not meant for every tile type. Manual snap cutters work best on ceramic, porcelain tiles up to a 1/2-inch thick, and sometimes glass or mosaic. While it excels at straight cuts and shapes like triangles or rectangles, curves and circles are out of the picture. Using a snap cutter is about finesse, not brute force. “Muscling” it leads to jagged edges and wasted tile.

• Using a square, mark your tile to size. Wear safety glasses—tile fragments can fly when snapping. Pull the lever to the bottom of the rail and place the tile tightly against the fence, aligning your mark with the center mark on the fence.
• Line up the blade at the bottom of your mark. Apply firm pressure—enough to hear a scratching sound and see a visible score line—and score the tile from bottom to top. Two passes are usually enough; do not exceed three, or the tile may chip. Check that you have a continuous score line across the entire tile before proceeding to the next step.
• Place the “foot” of the lever (the padded fork) slightly below the top of the tile. Push down with just enough pressure to break the tile from the top, moving down the tile until it is completely broken. If the tile doesn’t break cleanly, rescore the line with one additional pass and try breaking again.
• Take your cut piece and smooth out the edges with a rubbing stone before installation.

Angle Grinder with Diamond Blade

When you need cuts beyond straight lines, the angle grinder is the tool for the job. While it can cut straight lines, it is ideal for curves and complex shapes such as around plumbing valves or toilet flanges. Always equip it with a diamond blade specifically made for tile to ensure cleaner cuts and minimize chipping. Before starting, always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and a respirator. Clamp a piece of plywood or other suitable substrate to your workbench to protect it from accidental cuts.

• Mark your cut line and mark an X on the waste side. Clamp your tile onto the substrate.
• Grip the grinder with both hands, one on the main handle of the grinder near the trigger and one on the secondary handle for maximum control.
• Use a spray bottle with water to spritz on the tile and the blade. This helps keep the dust down.
• Turn the angle grinder on, and slowly, steadily make your first pass along your cut line. Move the grinder at a walking pace—too fast causes chipping, too slow can overheat the blade. Turn off the angle grinder and rewet your tile and blade for the second and final pass. Finish your cut.
• Turn off the angle grinder, wait until the blade stops, then set it down and take your cut tile. Smooth with a rubbing stone before installing.

Wet Tile Saw

The wet tile saw is your powerhouse for dense materials like marble, thick porcelain or stone. It uses a water-cooled system to prevent the diamond blade from overheating, enabling smoother cuts and reducing airborne dust. While it may be the best tool for precision cuts, you will get wet. Wearing a garbage bag or a plastic poncho is best to avoid getting soaked. Safety glasses and hearing protection are required; a face shield is optional but highly recommended, as you may get water sprayed back at your face depending on the amount of water in the reservoir. Keep electrical connections dry and away from water spray during operation.

• Mark your cut line with a speed square and note the waste.
• Fill the water reservoir to the fill line marked on the saw. If there’s no marked line, fill until the water is just above the bottom of the blade. This ensures the blade stays wet during cutting, preventing dust and overheating.
• Place your tile on the saw’s table, lining up your cut line with the blade. Bring in the rip fence to align your tile for a straight pass. Lock the fence.
• Turn on the wet tile saw to make sure it works properly. If all works, begin tile cutting.
• With steady, consistent pressure, slide the tile into the blade at a moderate pace (about 1-2 inches per second), allowing the blade to do the work until the cut is complete. Don’t force the tile into the blade—doing so can cause it to kick back, resulting in chipping and potential blade damage.
• Turn off the saw, wait until the blade stops and remove your cut tile. Smooth out the edge with a rubbing stone before installation.

Tip: Always clean and dry the wet tile saw after each use to prevent rusting and clogging. Replace the blade when cuts become slower or rougher

FAQ

How do you cut peel-and-stick tile?

Peel-and-stick tiles are easy to cut with a sharp razor blade and a straight edge, such as a speed square or a ruler. Use a speed square to mark where you will be cutting, and, with a sharp utility knife, score along the edge of the speed square, marking your line with a few passes. Set the tile at the edge of a table and apply a bit of downward force to snap the tile at the scored line.

How to cut a hole in tile?

You can cut a hole in a tile with a diamond hole saw attachment, an angle grinder, or a Dremel tool. When using an angle grinder, cut a hole by cutting in a circular motion or by cutting straight lines inside the hole and breaking it through the center. Touch up inside the hole with a Dremel tool or grind off the broken pieces by going in a circular motion or tile snippers. Make sure to use water when cutting to cool the blade and prevent dust.

How do you cut tile that is already installed?

To cut tile that is already installed, apply painter’s tape where you will be cutting. Mark your cut line on the tape. Using an angle grinder with a continuous or turbo rim diamond blade, score the tile along your marked line with multiple passes until the tile is fully cut. Apply some water to the blade and tile to prevent overheating and dust accumulation. Using a small chisel, remove the tile section and clean the area.

The post 3 Ways to Cut Tile Every DIYer Can Master appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: 3 Ways to Cut Tile Every DIYer Can Master

Your Car Could Soon Become a Federal Surveillance Device — What to Know

Starting in 2027, federally mandated safety technology will begin rolling out in new cars that monitor eye and steering movements and use passive breathalyzers to detect whether a driver is drunk, fatigued or otherwise impaired.

“Yes, you read that right,” says cybersecurity expert Rafay Baloch. “A new active driver alertness system is coming to a car near you in the next three years. But who will actually want it?”

Here is what to know about this new vehicle surveillance tech, from its history, to what it means for road safety, personal privacy and cost.

History of the Laws Leading Here

The push for preemptive surveillance tech began in 2008, with a project called DADSS, or Driver Alcohol Detection System for Safety. The effort was a collaboration between the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) and automakers. Back in 2015, the advocacy group MADD (Mothers Against Drunk Driving) also began lobbying for the tech.

Their efforts came to fruition with the bipartisan Infrastructure Investment and Jobs Act of 2021, which directed NHTSA to require “advanced drunk and impaired driving prevention technology” to be used in all new passenger vehicles.

Originally, the new tech was supposed to be implemented by the 2026 to 2027 model year window, but as of yet, the tech isn’t ready. So while a few brands are launching preview options, it will probably be another few years before it’s fully in place.

What the Surveillance Tech Does

The system uses passive breath sensors to detect the driver’s blood alcohol concentration. It also uses infrared cameras to monitor eye movement, head position and steering behavior. If it detects impairment from drugs, alcohol, fatigue or health events, the system can lock the ignition or restrict the vehicle’s speed.

Pros of Impairment Surveillance Tech

Saving lives by keeping impaired drivers off the road, and having cars that pull over by themselves if a driver has a major health event, brings obvious safety benefits.

“Drunk driving kills about 13,000 people a year in the US, and that number has held steady for decades, so the passive prevention style could move a needle that has stalled in that regard,” says Heimlich.

Cons of Impairment Surveillance Tech

On the downside, these systems are constantly gathering biometric data, such as eye tracking, steering micro movements and breath composition. How that data might be used concerns civil liberties groups. For example, says Baloch, what is the car learning about the driver, and what will that be used for? Could it lead to greater surveillance? Could it be passed on to insurance companies, who will increase rates?

“The privacy issue is a huge problem,” says Julie Bausch Lent, managing editor of Car Talk. “For many, a car that is listening to everything and recording your every move is a little weird, and a privacy breach.”

Another concern is whether that data can be subpoenaed in proceedings that aren’t about impairment, says Heimlich. “Come to think of it, any connected vehicle that has over-the-air update capability means the pipeline between your dashboard and a cloud server is one firmware patch away from being live,” he says.

Other Concerns of Impairment Surveillance Tech

A major holdup for the technology’s implementation is false positives. Even a 1% failure rate means that tens of thousands of people could be locked out of their cars, even though they are not impaired.

“Imagine being a doctor in an emergency, and the car doesn’t start because you used too much alcohol-based hand sanitizer and tripped the sensor,” says charter rental CEO Anton Geier.

Another concern is how much adopting the technology will raise the price of new cars and subsequent repairs. It’s also unclear how it will affect insurance prices, says Bausch Lent. “There is concern that an older car that does not have this passive monitoring safety technology will be more expensive to insure,” she says.

Can This Tech Be Avoided?

Yes, for a while. You can still buy a car built before the law takes effect. There are also bills in Congress that could repeal this mandate. “However, as with everything else in the tech world, once things like this are out of the box, it is really hard to stuff them back in,” says Bausch Lent. “My guess is this type of tech will be in all new cars in the near future.”

FAQ

Will it be illegal to remove technology like this from your car?

Federal law already prohibits removing or disabling safety equipment. “That said, enforcement at the individual owner level has been next to none for equipment such as air bags or emissions hardware, outside of the inspection states,” says Heimlich. “Practical risk depends upon whether or not states adopt inspection protocols that check for active impairment monitoring.”

Is this tech coming to old cars?

At the moment, no. There is no talk about retrofitting old cars with this technology. It would also be mechanically impractical and prohibitively expensive to do so, especially for pre-2020 vehicles, says Heimlich.

About the Experts

• Julie Bausch Lent is managing editor of Car Talk, the digital content iteration of the long-running NPR show about all things automotive.
• Alan Heimlich is president and attorney at Heimlich Law, an intellectual property law firm in Silicone Valley, California. He also has 20 years of experiences as a hardware and software engineer.
• Rafay Baloch is CEO and founder of REDSECLABS, a security consulting and training services company. He was recognized among the “Top 5 Ethical Hackers of 2014” by Checkmarx.
• Anton Geier is CEO of BCS Bus, a European bus and minibus charter rental company.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

The post Your Car Could Soon Become a Federal Surveillance Device — What to Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Your Car Could Soon Become a Federal Surveillance Device — What to Know

Hit A Gnarly Pothole? Signs Your Car Might Be Damaged

Living in a climate as I do that gets lots of snow and constant freezing and thawing temperatures, the roads in Pennsylvania develop nasty, teeth-chattering, wheel-busting, tire-bursting potholes. While physical damage can be easily spotted, the real danger lies in hidden damage to steering, suspension, bearings and axles. A clunking noise after hitting a pothole is a straight-up warning telling you something is wrong.

In my over 50-year career as a master ASE and General Motors auto technician, I replaced hundreds, if not thousands of tires, drive axles, constant velocity joints and just about every steering and suspension part on a car due to drivers hitting a pothole.  In fact, in 2022, 44 million drivers paid for damage caused by potholes.

Read along while a master technician and an auto parts recycler explain what noises to listen for, and offer simple, practical checks you can make yourself to increase safety and lower the risk of catastrophic—expensive—mechanical failures due to damage caused by driving over potholes.

Damaging Effects Of Winter Potholes

When water penetrates porous asphalt, it expands and contracts during winter’s icy freeze-and-thaw cycles. This causes asphalt to heave and contract, deform and break apart, leaving behind potholes.

Driving over a pothole can push steering parts, suspension components or CV axles past their expected tolerances. A jolt that bends a control arm—even a fraction of an inch—can throw your car’s alignment angles out of whack. This places additional stress not only on tires and axles, but wheel bearings as well.

Compounding the problem, rubber stiffens in cold temperatures decreasing a tire’s ability to absorb the energy of hitting a pothole, transferring more impact to the suspension. “Rubber shrinks when cold and can place excess pressure on metal parts they are trying to isolate from other metal parts,” said ASE and Toyota Master Technician Joe Simes. Add in mud, dirt and corrosive road salt that will worsen any existing weaknesses, especially a torn CV boot, creating the perfect storm for part failure.

Car Noises And Signs You Should Never Ignore

Cars make lots of noises, especially in the deep freeze of January and February. Most are from normal operation and go away as your car warms up while driving. But there are several noises you must never disregard, particularly after hitting a pothole, including:

• Clunking when driving straight over bumps or into a raised driveway could mean damaged, worn or bent bushings (your car has dozens of bushings), ball joints, tie-rod ends, MacPherson struts or shock absorbers.
• Metallic knock or slapping on wheel rebound could signal a bad MacPherson strut mount, cracked or broken coil spring or coil spring insulator, bent sway arm or stabilizer links or cracked anti-roll, sway arm or leaking hydraulic damper.
• Deep thud with steering pull indicates a bent wheel, or loose or shifted sub-frame.
• Clicking, grinding or popping when turning usually signifies a damaged or worn-out CV joint that has probably lost all its grease from a torn CV boot. A worn or failing wheel bearing can also cause these noises while turning.
• Rhythmic thumping can be caused by a broken tire belt or a bad wheel bearing. A continuous humming, whining or droning coming from your wheels while driving, cornering that increases with speed, is usually caused by a bad wheel bearing,” said Simes.

What “Clunking” Can Actually Mean

Clunking indicates one of two things. Either two parts in close proximity that should be isolated from each other are touching, or a single component with too much free play is shifting or moving excessively while driving.

For example, a worn or missing sway arm bushing will permit the sway arm to “clunk” against its mounting bracket and car chassis when accelerating, stopping or going over a bump. As my colleague Karuna Eberl puts it, “One thing’s for sure, if you have a suspension noise that suddenly disappears, there’s a good chance the component is broken and disconnected from the rest of your car.”

Why Ignoring Noise Leads To Axle Or Bearing Hub Failure

As Simes mentioned, a humming or whining noise means some part or component on or in your car is loose, sloppy, weak or damaged. Axle bearing, hubs, and CV joints are designed to spin and should have “zero” side-to-side movement. On modern front- and four-wheel-drive cars, wheel bearings are sets of precisely machined, hardened steel ball bearings or straight roller bearings (shaped like a can of soda). The balls, or rollers, are encased in a “cage” that supports the bearings, allowing them to spin freely.

A sharp impact from hitting a pothole can dent or crack the bearing race or flatten a bearing roller. As the wheel rotates, the roller repeatedly hits the dent or crack, or the flat spot rubs against the race, causing the parts to wear. With every rotation, tiny flakes or chips of metal break off the surface of the race or roller, intensifying bearing play. This creates rhythmic growls or hums. The increased play (movement) results in excess hub bearing wobble and vibration, and the axle splines wear abnormally.

Once a bearing develops play, the hub will no longer hold the axle perfectly centered. This causes your car’s steering and braking to become unstable or pull to one side. Temperatures will increase as the bearing continues failing. This can lead to axle or CV joint grease leaking or breaking down. Increased temperatures can also warp the hub, damage the CV joint, possibly creating a second part failure, that is, of course, if the hub bearing doesn’t completely come apart first, causing the wheel to come off while driving.

Quick Checks You Can Do

Kazimieras Urbonas, automotive expert at automotive part recycler Ovoko, suggests, “Go over a speed bump with the radio off. Hearing a dull ‘thud’ is normal, but a sharp, metallic ‘clunk’ or a rattle can be the first sign of pothole damage.”

Test for your shocks and MacPherson struts by pushing down hard (jounce) on the bumper two or three times. Your vehicle should come to rest after one rebound. Replace them if your car keeps bouncing, you hear knocking, or you see fluid leaking from a shock. Defective shocks/struts increase stopping distance and make your car dangerous to handle on icy roads. Wheel bearing noise can also mimic engine noise,” said Simes.

Simes adds that, if your car has a tachometer/RPM gauge, “Watch the RPM gauge as it increases when accelerating. Take your foot off the accelerator and listen as RPMs drop. If the noise is still there, it’s coming from a wheel, axle, hub or bearing, not the engine.” Look under your car around source of the noise. Look for shiny or other wear marks, rust stains, or worn paint from loose, damaged, bent or worn-out parts rubbing against each other.

When It’s Safe To Drive, And When To Pullover

After hitting a pothole, find a straight, flat road, and when safe, loosen your grip on the steering wheel slightly for a second, then step on the brake pedal. “Pullover and call for a tow of your car immediately if the steering wheel is no longer ‘centered,’ pulls or drifts [especially if erratically] to one side while moving or braking. Something is likely to have been bent or damaged from the impact,” said Urbonas. “It’s not safe to drive.”

Preventing Pothole Damage

Slowing down before hitting, staying away from the curb, or safely driving around a pothole are the best defenses against damage from them. If you see what looks like standing water, treat it as if it were a pothole; it could very well be an eight-inch crater (which I have driven into on more than one occasion) that can easily cause suspension parts to brutally strike each other.

Simes says maintaining proper tire pressure can help prevent pothole damage. “Visually inspect your tires for abnormal wear or squeak when turning, and don’t ignore noises that weren’t there before hitting a pothole,” he says. If you cannot avoid a pothole, slamming on  the brakes during the impact transfers vehicle weight to the front wheels, increasing the possibility of damage.

After the winter, have your car’s suspension aligned, wheels balanced and undercarriage visually inspected by your mechanic. “Taking your car in for repairs before things get worse is the best thing you can do to help keep a simple repair from turning into a major expense,” said Urbonas.

FAQs

How much does it cost to replace an axle or bearing hub?

The average cost to replace a sealed wheel hub bearing is around $350 per wheel. However, depending on the make and model, the shop labor rate ($47 to $215 per hour, according to AAA) and any additional damage could easily push the cost per wheel beyond $1,000.

However, on some vehicles, it can be less than $100 per wheel. And you can save hundreds on labor if you DIY. If you don’t have the tools, most auto parts stores will lend you the specialty tools and equipment needed.

What other damage can hitting a pothole cause?

Besides tire, wheel, steering, suspension and frame/chassis damage, hitting a pothole can damage brake dust shields, twist a brake caliper, causing brakes to pull or lock up, overheat or wear prematurely. Other issues include damage to sensitive electronics, as well as ABS, ride height, stability or TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) sensors. All of which will trigger a dashboard warning light if damaged.

Experts

• Joe Simes has over 25 years’ experience in the automotive industry as an ASE and Toyota Master Technician, a Pennsylvania Department of Education certified automotive technology instructor, as well as a PA certified emissions and safety inspection instructor and inspector. He is currently an automotive technology instructor at North Montco Technical Career Center in Lansdale, PA. Joe was also the former deputy fire chief and training officer for Montgomery County, PA (retired). (Interview Mar 6, 2026)
• Kazimieras Urbonas is a motoring expert and Supplier Excellence Manager at Ovoko, one of the world’s largest digital marketplaces for used (recycled) auto parts. He specializes in vehicle mechanics and wear-and-tear, helping drivers understand damage caused by harsh road conditions and identify reliable replacement components. (Electronic communications Mar 6, 2026)

Sources

• AAA: “Car Repair Labor Rates Explained” Mar 5, 2026
• AAA: “Drivers, Beware: Potholes Pop Up Early This Year”  Mar 3, 2026
• FOX Weather: ”Spring pothole season is here: Steps to avoid that tiring annual headache” Mar 5, 2026
• Jim DeLeo, Northeast Division Manager for Hunter Engineering Company Interview Mar 6, 2026
• Look Up A Plate: “8 Alarming Pothole Statistics Every American Needs to Know” Jan 15, 2026
• State Farm: “When potholes become costly” Mar 5, 2026
• The Hartford: “Potholes: The Sneaky Road Hazards That Can Really Leave a Dent in Your Day” Mar 5, 2026

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

The post Hit A Gnarly Pothole? Signs Your Car Might Be Damaged appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Hit A Gnarly Pothole? Signs Your Car Might Be Damaged

Land Rover Recalls 500 Vehicles Over Dangerous Faulty Seat Belts

Bad news for people who like to take their cars out on adventures. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) just announced that certain Land Rovers have faulty seat belts. Without properly functioning seat belts, your next off-road adventure or exciting road trip could leave you severely injured or worse. We broke down the NHTSA brief so you can find out which Land Rovers have this issue and how to fix it so that you can return to your regularly scheduled trips as soon as possible.

Why Is Jaguar Land Rover Recalling Vehicles?

According to the NHTSA brief, in the impacted Land Rovers, “the third-row lower seat belt anchorage bracket may have an insufficient weld stud.” The weld is what helps to anchor your seat belt. Without it, you’re in much more danger during a crash. The NHTSA warns that “a seat belt assembly with an insufficient weld may not properly restrain an occupant during a crash, increasing the risk of injury.” It doesn’t matter how safe a driver you may be. There’s always the possibility of a freak accident occurring, so it’s imperative that you take this recall seriously.

Which Land Rovers Have Faulty Seat Belts?

Per the recall brief, almost 500 2026 Land Rover Defender vehicles have this problem. If you own one, restrict your use of the third row until you have had a chance to confirm whether or not yours has this issue. You can search your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on the NHTSA website to see if your vehicle is included in this recall, or you can wait until you’ve received communication materials directly from Jaguar Land Rover. Either way, it’s best to treat your vehicle as though it does have faulty seat belts until you know for sure. Gambling with the safety of your passengers is not a good idea.

Is There a Fix?

According to the company, “dealers will replace the third-row lower seat belt anchorage bracket, free of charge.” They will be mailing out owner notification letters in mid-May 2026, so if you own a Land Rover Defender, keep an eye on your mailbox. Until you know for certain that your third-row seat belts are properly welded, refrain from having any passengers in those seats.

If you have further questions, you can reach Land Rover’s customer service at 800-637-6837. Land Rover’s number for this recall is D098, and the NHTSA number for this recall is 26V163000.

Source

Insufficiently Welded Seat Belt Anchorage Bracket, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2026.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

The post Land Rover Recalls 500 Vehicles Over Dangerous Faulty Seat Belts appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: Land Rover Recalls 500 Vehicles Over Dangerous Faulty Seat Belts

This Homemade Slime Actually Cleans Your Car — Here’s How to Make It

Prepare the mixture

In a medium glass mixing bowl, pour:

• An entire 4-oz. bottle of Elmer’s white glue.
• 2-tsp of baking soda.
• A few drops of food coloring (If you wish to color it).
• 1-2 tbsp of contact lens solution

Using a glass bowl ensures easy cleanup and prevents the mixture from sticking to the container. Use a plastic spoon to stir the mixture thoroughly after adding each component. Ensure all clumps are eliminated, and the mixture is smooth and consistent before adding the contact lens solution.

Note: Use a contact lens solution that contains boric acid or sodium borate—these ingredients are what activate the car cleaning gel.

Mix and knead

The contact lens solution is what transforms the liquid into a gel or slime consistency. The mixture will immediately begin to thicken on contact. Use the spoon to fold the slime over itself (like bread dough) in the bowl to incorporate all ingredients.

Once the mixture has thickened into a cohesive ball of gel, remove the spoon and begin kneading it by hand. You may have excess contact solution at the bottom of the bowl when mixing, and that is normal. Once you start kneading and stretching the gel over it, the gel will soak up the excess. At first, the gel may stick to your hands and fingers, but after a few minutes of kneading, folding and stretching, the gel will become smooth and elastic. That means it’s ready to use.

Note: Some people may be sensitive to glue or boric acid. Wash your hands thoroughly after mixing or handling the slime.

Use the car cleaning gel

Before you do a full cleaning of your car, test a small, inconspicuous area first. Use the car cleaning gel on hard plastic surfaces such as cup holders, air vents, buttons, etc. Avoid using it on upholstery or other porous surfaces, as it could leave residue or get stuck. If the gel leaves some residue or is too soft, add a little more contact solution to firm it up.

To use, push it onto the hard plastic surfaces to pick up any hair, crumbs or debris. When you need to pick up more, fold the car cleaning gel over to reveal a new, clean side and repeat.

To store it, put it into a small glass container or a zip-lock bag in a cool location. Don’t leave it in your car! Depending on where you live, the heat will melt it.

FAQ

Is car cleaning gel reusable?

Car cleaning slime/gel is totally reusable. Fold over the used parts of your slime/gel and bring forth a nice, clean side to continue cleaning.

How long does car cleaning gel last?

Once your gel stops picking up dirt and debris, it is time to replace it. Meaning, it could last one use if your car is extremely dirty, or four or more uses. The frequency with which you clean your car and how dirty it is will determine how long it lasts. What’s great is that it is so simple to make in so little time.

How often should I clean my car interior?

Every two to four weeks, when you wash the exterior of your vehicle, it is a good idea to pick up all the trash and debris and shake out the floor mats. Deep cleaning of your vehicle’s interior only needs to be done every 3 to 4 months.

The post This Homemade Slime Actually Cleans Your Car — Here’s How to Make It appeared first on Family Handyman.

Article source here: This Homemade Slime Actually Cleans Your Car — Here’s How to Make It