Can I Program My Own Car Fob? Here’s the Deal

My mom recently lost the spare set of keys for her 2006 Subaru. The dealer wanted more than $300 to replace the key fob and make a new key. That seemed outrageous, so we started digging into DIY alternatives. We discovered that we weren’t alone in our concerns.

“I started Tom’s Key Company out of frustration at the cost and difficulty in getting a spare key or remote programmed to my vehicle,” says Mike Wessman, who started Tom’s Key Company to help DIYers do just that. “Plus, over 50% of used cars are sold with a single key.”

The good news is that for most vehicle models, you can program your own fob and smart key. But the cost and complexity of the tools needed will depend on the age and model of your vehicle. Here’s what to know, plus resources for programming your own car fob.

How Do Key Fobs Work?

Key fobs — aka smart keys, remote keys and proximity keys — contain a digital fingerprint, or serial number, which your vehicle’s computer (ECU) recognizes. When you press a fob button and/or come into close proximity to your vehicle, the code is sent via radio frequency to activate specific systems, such as unlocking the doors, opening the rear hatch and sliding doors, triggering a panic alarm, or starting the engine.

Over the years, keys and fobs have evolved. “We used to just have keys, then keys and a separate fob, then keys with the fob built into the key head, and then the key went away, leaving just a fob and a push-to-start button,” says master certified technician Chris Pyle.

Programming Key Fobs For Older Vehicles (Pre-2010)

If you have a pre-2010 vehicle, chances are that programming your own key and fob will be an inexpensive and simple DIY task. You’ll need to purchase a generic key fob, which is widely available online as well as at some hardware stores. Next, programming it (aka onboard programming) typically involves cycling the key on and off rapidly for a set number of times, while pushing various fob buttons. It might also include sequences of opening doors and pushing brake pedals.

To find specifics on how to program your car’s fob, Wessman recommends programyourremote.com and programautokeys.com. You can also find procedures on YouTube, and sometimes in the car’s owner’s manual.

In the case of my mom’s car, even though hers was pre-2010, her ignition key also contained a smart chip. That complicated the process, putting it in the category of a more modern vehicle.

Programming Key Fobs For Modern Vehicles

Newer vehicles have more advanced security and technology systems; therefore, programming their fobs and keys requires more sophisticated equipment, including a scan tool. “The good news is that plenty of DIYers do have scan tools,” says Pyle. “The ones that have security access, though, are often very expensive, costing over $500.”

Companies like Tom’s Key Company can assist with the process by cutting a new key blade from a photo of your key and then mailing you a programming tool. “It’s an easy DIY project that take about 10 minutes and saves hundreds of dollars,” says Wessman. For most vehicles, it costs around $150.

Keep in mind, aftermarket alarms and remote starts can create complications. You’ll also need to visit a dealer if your car has had more than three keys/fobs programmed already.

Security and Legality Issues

There are no legal or security issues with programming car fobs yourself, say Wessman and Pyle. “It is your car, you can do as you please as long as you have the skills and tools to complete the job,” says Pyle.

However, on rare occasions, DIY programming can disable electrical features, illuminate dashboard warning lights or create problems with the ECU, which would then require a fix from a locksmith or dealer. “Nissan and Infiniti owners in particular should be aware that the first step in this manufacturer’s programming of a proximity key is to erase all existing keys,” says Wessman. “If instructions are not followed correctly, the vehicle will have no keys saved in the memory.”

Why Dealerships Charge High Fees for Key Fobs

“Because they can,” says auto industry expert Melanie Musson. “You need to have a key, or you can’t drive your car. Part of the cost is that the fobs contain advanced technology, but they’re still more expensive than they need to be.”

Can a Locksmith Program My Key Fob?

Yes, locksmiths can provide and program the fobs for most vehicles, plus they typically charge less than a dealership. To do the job, they will likely need all existing keys and fobs, plus the vehicle, says Pyle.

FAQ

My fob buttons work (locks/unlocks), but the car won’t start — why?

If you have a fob with a push-button start, it might be a failing fob or dead battery. It could also indicate problems with computers, brake lights, anti-theft systems or the starter, says Pyle.

Can a cheap aftermarket fob damage my car?

No. A more common problem is that an aftermarket fob won’t work with all of the features, or needs to be closer to the vehicle to operate. When buying an aftermarket FOB, Pyle also recommends choosing a higher-quality model, which will likely be more durable.

About the Experts

• Mike Wessman is owner of Tom’s Key Company, which helps customers DIY spare car keys and fobs. He also hosts the Tom’s Key Company DIY YouTube channel.
• Chris Pyle is a master-certified technician with 20-plus years of automotive experience. He has also worked as an expert for JustAnswer.com since 2006.
• Melanie Musson is an auto industry expert with Cleaersurance.com. https://clearsurance.com/

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What LEGO Can Teach Car Manufacturers About The Future of Tires

Why Buying A Plow Truck Could Be The Best or Worst Winter Investment You Make

Winter is coming, and with it come snowstorms that can leave paralyzing amounts of snow on the ground, depending on where you live. If that happens to be a region with occasional or frequent heavy snowfall, opening a snowplow business offers a reliable way to generate income while providing an essential community service. But before you invest money in equipment and start looking for clients, you need to know what you’re getting into.

It’s essential to start by analyzing the potential profitability of such a business in your area and developing a strategic business plan. After all, the equipment you’ll need to purchase isn’t cheap, and you’ll have significant operational costs as your business grows, so you’ll want to make sure you’ll be able to turn a profit. The insights we gained from urban engineer Ahmed Harhara, Ph.D. will help you decide whether or not it’s worth moving forward.

Understanding the Snow Plow Business

“Profitability of snow plowing services as a business versus just a side hustle often hinges on how local weather patterns affect community demand,” says Harhara. He grew up in Michigan, the same part of the country I’m from. And while heavy snow events aren’t as frequent as they were when I was a kid, they still happen frequently enough to warrant a snowplow business. The same isn’t necessarily true for regions to the South or far from the blizzard-prone Great Lakes.

Once you’ve decided that the number of snowy days in your region is sufficient to justify a full-fledged business, you need to identify your clientele because that will have a bearing on the equipment you purchase and your operating costs. Will you cater to residential clients, focusing on clearing driveways and walkways, or will you seek commercial clients, which will involve clearing large areas like parking lots? If the latter, you’ll be able to generate more revenue, but you’ll also need heavier equipment, and your operating costs will be higher.

Here are some other things to think about:

• Competition – Is there a genuine opportunity for a snowplow business in your area, or are the community’s needs already met by existing companies?
• Contract type – Will you charge per push, per snow event or per season? Charging on a per-push or per-event basis is preferable in regions with sporadic snowfall, but if you’re in an area with regular heavy snowfall, you’ll usually generate a more stable income over the winter months by charging a flat rate that covers the entire season.

Legal and Licensing Requirements

When you start any business, you have to fulfill a number of administrative requirements to operate legally. Some of these vary depending on your state and local regulations, but in general, these are the steps required for a snowplow business:

• Establish a business structure. You can operate as a sole proprietor, but if you want to protect your personal assets, it is better to register your business as a corporation or LLC.
• Register your company name. Choose a name for your business and register it with the appropriate government agencies.
• Obtain a business license from your state or local government.
• Determine if you need a contractor’s license. Some states require this if you offer other services, such as landscaping, you plan to hire employees or your business exceeds a certain dollar amount.
• Obtain required commercial licenses. Make sure each driver who operates the snowplow equipment has a commercial driver’s license.
• Get insurance. You’ll need liability insurance for the business itself, and you’ll need workers’ compensation insurance if you hire employees.

Equipment and Tools You’ll Need

“The primary tools you need include a sturdy truck with a heavy-duty plow attachment and spreaders for salt or brine application,” said Dr. Harhara.  You’ll probably also need a snow blower and shovels, especially if you’re serving residential customers.

Truck Considerations

The main consideration when choosing a truck is that it matches the size of the plow. A light-duty, four-wheel drive pickup can handle an 80-by-26-inch straight blade, which is suitable for most residential snow clearing. If you plan on doing commercial clearing, you’ll need a wider and taller blade (for example, 102 by 36 inches), and a heavy-duty pickup with a powerful engine and a high Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) that can handle it. Popular choices include the Ford F250/350 Super Duty, the Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 and the Ram 2500/3500.

Plow Attachment

Again, the size of the plow attachment depends on whether you plan to offer residential or commercial clearing. Straight plows and snow pushers are suitable for most light-duty residential jobs and are the cheapest options. For large commercial jobs, a pricier V-shaped plow is more efficient (and usually requires a larger truck). You can also opt for a top-of-the-line wing plow, which folds back to allow for plowing in tight spaces.

Startup Costs and Budget Planning

Assuming you already have a truck, Harhara estimates the start-up costs, which include the plow, spreading equipment and permitting and insurance fees to be between $15,000 and $25,000. If you also need to purchase a truck, add that cost, which can range from $10,000 to $80,000, depending on the size of the truck and whether you opt for a new or used model. Harhara adds the reminder that “ongoing expenses like maintenance, fuel and insurance can add several thousand more per season.”

What Comes Next? Growing a Snow Plow Business

Once you have your equipment, you have to advertise your business. You can take out ads in local publications, but according to Harhara, the most effective advertising “tends to be hyper-local; using yard signs, knocking on doors, and placing ads in HOA newsletters helps build trust within the community.”

After you have established a few satisfied clients, they usually offer the best advertising by providing references and recommending you to other potential customers. But people still need to know how to contact you, so don’t forget to establish a website that includes a booking form. You can also reach potential customers by creating a Facebook page and a Google business profile.

FAQ

When should I start marketing my services?

Don’t wait for the snow to fall. Get a jump on the competition by advertising in the late summer or early fall, and continue advertising throughout the snow season. Many potential customers won’t even think of snow clearing until they are socked in by a heavy snowfall.

Do I need to offer salting or de-icing services?

You can start a snowplow business without offering de-icing services, but if you do offer them, your business is more likely to be successful. They increase your revenue potential and improve safety for your clientele.

Note that rock salt (sodium chloride) can harm plants, contaminate waterways and cause other environmental problems, so it isn’t allowed everywhere. In some communities, you may need to use an alternative deicer, such as sand, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride or calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), which is a salt-free melting agent relatively new on the market.

About the Expert

• Ahmed Harhara, Ph.D. is an engineer and the Founder of HoustonHomeTools, a data platform that helps residents understand neighborhood-level environmental and housing risks.

Related

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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250,000+ Hondas Recalled Over Dangerous Glitch: Is Your Car On The List?

While some recalls only affect a few unlucky drivers, others prove to be bad news for thousands, if not millions, of people. The National Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recently announced that hundreds of thousands of Honda vehicles have dangerous electrical issues. If you own a Honda, play it safe and refrain from driving your vehicle as much as possible until it’s been repaired.

Why Is Honda Recalling These Vehicles?

According to the NHTSA brief, the electrical issues in question are manifesting in the cars’ computers. “Due to a software error,” it reads, “the integrated control module (ICM) central processing unit (CPU) may reset while driving.” When it does this, it will cause “a loss of drive power.”

The NHTSA warns that “a loss of drive power increases the risk of a crash or injury.” Losing drive power while driving can be a terrifying experience, so you should check whether or not your vehicle is on the recall list as soon as possible.

Which Honda Vehicles Have Electrical Issues?

Over 250,000 Honda vehicles are affected by this software issue. If your vehicle is one of the cars listed below, you’ll want to keep an eye on your mailbox for the owners letter explaining the problem. Honda will be mailing these out in early January 2026. If you want to know sooner, you can also search your VIN on the NHTSA website.

Impacted vehicles include the:

• 2023 Honda Accord Hybrid
• 2024 Honda Accord Hybrid
• 2025 Honda Accord Hybrid

Until you can confirm whether or not your car has this problem, play it safe. Avoid using your Honda as much as possible. Recalls like these are about issues that pose a risk to you, your passengers, and other drivers on the road.

How Will Honda Fix This Problem?

Per the brief, Honda “dealers will reprogram the ICM CPU software, free of charge.” Make an appointment for this fix as soon as possible; the risk of a crash due to a loss of drive power is not something to take lightly. Refrain from driving your Honda as

If you have further questions, you can reach out to Honda’s customer service at 1-888-234-2138. Honda’s number for this recall is TN2 and the NHTSA number for this recall is 25V785000.

Source

Loss of Drive Power from Software Error, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2025.

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A Beginner’s Guide To Turning Wooden Christmas Ornaments on a Lathe

Mount the blank

Start with a blank measuring 2-1/2-in. x 2-1/2-in. x 6-in. Find the center at one end and create a divot at that center point with a nail set. The more accurate the center point location, the less vibration you will have when starting up the lathe.

Mount the other end of your blank that does not have the center punch in it to the chuck threaded into the headstock spindle on the lathe. Slightly tighten the blank into the chuck so it is secure. However, do not tighten it tightly until you have placed the center-punched end into the center of the tail drive. Once both ends have been positioned, tighten the chuck around the mounted blank and turn tailstock drive to secure the blank between centers.

Balance the blank

Start the lathe at a low speed to ensure everything is secure and that the lathe doesn’t have excessive bounce with an unbalanced piece of wood. Slowly increase the speed. The most critical part of basic woodturning safely is to ensure that your blank is always secure, balanced, and centered.

Working from one end of the blank to the other, use a roughing gouge to slowly remove the square corners until you are left with a round cylinder. When roughing out a blank directly mounted to the chuck, be careful not to bring your gouge too close to the chuck, where your tool may get tangled and cause damage.

Create the profile of the ornament

Shape the now cylindrical blank to the desired profile using a combination of woodturning tools. A spindle gouge, a parting tool and a skew chisel are the three that I found worked best.

The secret to making Christmas ornaments beautiful lies in creating the beads and coves with crisp, definitive curves and edges. Depending on the profile, using a parting tool or a skew will help make this very easy. For example, when making a Christmas tree, use a skew chisel on its side to create and define the tiers of the tree.

Once you have shaped all the ornament, except for the pointed end, disconnect the tail stock and turn that final bit with the blank just mounted in the chuck.

Sand and finish

With your desired profile, start the sanding process with 150-grit sandpaper and work consecutively through grits: 220, 320 and 400. Sand the whole piece to remove any tool marks.  Never skip a grit. Tearing sandpaper into smaller pieces helps get into tight angles.  For safety, always hold onto the sandpaper from an under position so your arm isn’t hanging out over the top of the ornament. Never wrap the sandpaper around your fingers; you want to quickly release it should it get caught in the wood.

Once the ornament has been sanded, apply sealer (in this case, walnut oil) with a painter’s rag. Keep the lathe running while applying the oil. This will heat up the oil and help it penetrate the wood more effectively.

Part off the ornament

Once the ornament has been sanded and sealed, work with the spindle gouge to cut into the material around the end of the blank, which is attached to the chuck. Use a parting tool to cut the center 1/4-in. of material, and your ornament is cut off from the lathe.

Clean up the bottom

When you have parted off the ornament from the chuck and the lathe, you will find a small nub where you have parted and separated the ornament from the chuck. This area will need to be sanded and oiled to blend in with the rest of the piece.  Take your time, use a rotary tool to run through all the same grits of sandpaper you used on the rest of the ornament and apply a coat of oil.

Add an eye hook for hanging

Holding the ornament in your hand, slowly drill a small hole with a 1/16-in. drill bit at the top of your ornament.  Then, install a small eye screw in the hole to hang it from.  Feel free to use a drop or two of CA glue to secure the eye screw in the hole. Then, use a length of decorative Christmas ribbon or string to hang it with.

FAQ

How do you seal wooden ornaments?

How you seal your Christmas ornaments depends on the sheen you want with the end product. For a natural feel, use an oil.  Walnut oil, danish oil, or tung oil are suitable options. They come in both a can for an aerosol application or applied with a rag and rubbed on. For satin or semigloss sheen to your finish, use a finish designed for these applications, like a varnish or a polyurethane.

Can you put Christmas ornaments outside?

As with any wood, Christmas ornaments can be placed outdoors, but they must be sealed with an exterior-grade finish. Use spar varnish as it is designed for high moisture exposure and is applied just like most other clear coat products.

How can I display my Christmas ornaments without a tree?

You may be as creative as you wish when displaying your ornament. It doesn’t always have to hang on a Christmas tree.  These wooden Christmas ornaments can be hung in a window, from a mantle, or even displayed in a small hanging stand sitting on a table.  The possibilities are endless!

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Are Your Car’s Tires Built To Last — Or Fail Faster — in 2025?

Modern tires look mostly the same as tires have looked over the past 100 years— black and round. That’s where the similarity ends. With over 50 years in the auto service industry (47 as an ASE Master Technician), I witnessed the introduction of several new tire types and designs. As a “tire snob”, virtually every new tire design I saw was far superior to older models. This held true across the board, including tread design, speed, aspect ratio, temperature and wear ratings. Plus, they were long overdue, especially for cars whose brakes and tires couldn’t match the power output of the cars’ engines.

Today’s modern tires can have up to 200 unique compounds. This makes them less likely to experience a blowout, run smoother and quieter, making driving safer and more enjoyable. However, there is a belief that modern tires do not last as long as tires from 40 or 50 years ago. Due to tires (and brakes) being the most critical safety features on any vehicle, here’s what you need to know from a tire distributor and other knowledgeable tire experts.

How Are Tires Designed?

Modern tires are designed through a blend of precision engineering, chemistry, and rigorous testing, ensuring tires meet specific National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) for performance, safety, traction, temperature and durability.

“Tires begin as layers of synthetic and natural rubber that are molded, cured, and reinforced with steel belts or textile plies for strength. Unlike older bias-ply tires [from 50 years ago], most of today’s passenger tires use radial construction. Radial construction gives tires sidewall flexibility while maintaining tread rigidity, improving comfort, stability, and fuel efficiency,” explained Enrique Dent, of Dent Tire Distributors.

Additionally, tire manufacturers collaborate with automakers to establish performance goals for a specific vehicle. Then, each tire is custom-designed and built for that specific vehicle.

Why Modern Tires Are Considered Worse

In the past, tires were constructed using harder, denser rubber compounds. They offered better mileage, but sacrificed grip, handling and comfort. “Today’s modern tires favor performance, fuel efficiency, and ride quality,” said Den. “Softer compounds combined with more flexible materials increase traction and braking performance but wear faster, which can make consumers feel they are getting less value for their money,” explained Dent. This has led to the perception that modern tires are “worse, when really tire priorities have simply shifted.

Tread life

Modern tires are constructed with softer rubber that handles better in cold weather. The trade-off will be less durability—and a shorter tread lifespan—than a harder rubber that handles well in warm weather. A harder all-season tire could last 70,000 miles, while softer all-weather tires tailored for colder, snowy climates may only have a 50,000-mile lifespan.

Increased cost

Modern tires incorporate materials and manufacturing methods that didn’t exist in the past, such as advanced polymers, high-silica compounds, computer-enhanced tread patterns, and stronger but lighter internal belts.

“All these factors that improve handling, fuel economy, and safety on vehicles having increased power, heavier curb weights, and advanced suspension systems have greatly increased production costs,” said Den. “You’re paying not just for rubber, but for decades of engineering that allows your vehicle to stop faster, use fuel more efficiently— designing tires tailored to precise original equipment manufacturer specifications, and are compatible with advanced tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS).”

Additionally, tariffs, shipping costs, and raw material prices have risen worldwide, further increasing prices.

Thinner sidewalls

Most modern tires have thinner sidewalls for design and driveability reasons. Compared to older models, cars today use larger wheels with thinner (low-profile) sidewalls. “Thinner sidewalls decrease twisting when cornering, improve handling, stability, and aerodynamic performance, giving the driver more precise control,” said Dent. “Modern sidewalls use advanced multi-ply materials, synthetic cords, and bead reinforcements to withstand lateral loads that would have destroyed older tires.”

Run-flat tires (you can’t get any more modern than these) feature stiff, narrow, reinforced sidewalls that can support a vehicle’s weight without air pressure for short distances.

What Do Modern Tires Do Better?

Just about everything. Today’s modern tires deliver better braking control and steering stability, better handling, increased hydroplaning resistance, better heat tolerance, better shock absorption, run quieter, and offer lower rolling resistance than their 1970s counterparts. Modern tires are designed to work seamlessly with anti-lock brakes, traction control, and Advanced Driver Control Assistance (ADAS) systems.

“You’re paying not just for rubber, but for decades of engineering that allows your vehicle to stop faster and use fuel more efficiently,” said Dent.

Improved Gas Mileage

Yes. Modern tires offer improved fuel economy. Employing lower rolling resistance technology reduces the potential energy a tire consumes as it deforms against the road, minimizing energy loss. Dent explained, “Shifting to lower rolling resistance designs that utilize special tread patterns, silica-infused rubber, and shallower tread depths has made a measurable difference in fuel economy.”

So, Are They Really Worse?

No, modern tires are not really worse. The fact is that modern tires are significantly superior to older tires in terms of safety and traction. “In truth, said Dent, tire quality has improved, not declined. Precision manufacturing, balancing, and uniformity are at their best levels in history. They added, “What has changed is the trade-off of increased safety and performance at the cost of tire longevity.”

FAQ

Are tires for electric vehicles (EVs) different?

Yes. According to Jason Banys from Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company. “EV tires are equipped with features to handle an EV’s unique attributes, such as added weight and high electric motor torque [on acceleration].”

They also feature an aerodynamic sidewall with a specialized compound that can lower aerodynamic drag, decreasing rolling resistance for a longer range, something important to EV drivers. While many all-weather tires are now marketed as electric vehicle (EV) ready, do your homework before you buy. All-season tires have lower rolling resistance, but lack reinforced sidewalls and stiffer construction needed to handle an EV’s increased weight and mass, reducing their life span.

What’s the deal with “performance” and “eco” tires?

Performance tires usually come with V, W, Y or Z speed ratings (V-149 MPH; Z-186 MPH). They’re often constructed from much softer, high-grip rubber compounds. These materials maximize traction and cornering ability, making them ideal for sports cars and high-speed driving. The trade-off is a lifespan of 25,000–30,000 miles and lower fuel efficiency.

Eco-tires are designed for efficiency, sustainability and are manufactured in a more environmentally friendly way. Using more eco-friendly materials such as natural rubber, rice husk silica, and recycled polymers will cost you slightly more than a standard tire. They offer low rolling resistance to improve fuel economy or EV range. Optimized tread designs help increase tire longevity, providing a smooth, quieter ride and lower emissions.

About the Experts

• Enrique Dent of Dent Tire Distributors is the Founder of Dent Tires, LLC in Lithia Springs GA., and Co-Founders of Wood’s Tire Center at Dent Tire LLC and Wood’s Tire Center. Enrique has over half a century of expertise in the tire industry, logistics, inventory management, and business operations, including working with major companies such as Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company. (Electronic communication, Nov. 4, 2025)
• Howard Boylan Jr. is a Co-Founder of Wood’s Tire Center and Dent Tire Distributors.
• Jason Banys is the assistant district manager for Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company.
• Jim DeLeo is the Northeast Division Manager for Hunter Engineering Company.
• Melanie Musson is an auto industry expert with AutoInsurance.org.

References

• § 575.104 Uniform tire quality grading standards, Code of Federal Regulations, Oct 29, 2025.
• Bias Ply vs. Radial Tires: Understanding the Differences, Counteract, Sep 18, 2024.
• Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards; Tires, Federal Register, Oct 29, 2025.
• How to convert from bias-ply tire measurements to modern metric tire measurements without using a chart, Hemmings, July 3, 2025.
• Spectroscopy of Polymers, pg. 420, J.L. Koenig, Science Direct, 2nd Ed.
• How a Tire Is Made, U.S. Tire Manufacturers Association, Nov 4, 2025.

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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Everything DIYers Should Buy at Costco, Plus a Few Things to Avoid

Many of us covet Costco for bulk deals on food, but neglect to explore the other half of the store. Over there, the aisles are packed with home-improvement supplies, tools and other items which make Costco great for DIYers.

“There are few retailers out there who can sell smart, allow you to stock up, and still let you save real money,” says roofer and remodeler Aaron Jakel. “Costco is one of those stores.”

Also, given the retailer’s lenient return policy and seasonal deals, “Costco offers robust value to both DIY-ers in need of occasional use items or professionals that need to stock up their garages,” adds real estate investor Zack Moorin.

But, while the combo of food and home improvement supplies makes for an easy one-stop shop, there are also a few DIY items to avoid. We asked 10 home-improvement experts to share their favorite items at Costco for DIYers, as well as which ones to avoid. Here’s what they said.

Tools and Hardware

Costco excels with tools like drills, screwdrivers, wrenches and socket sets. Look for Costco, DeWalt and Craftsman brands, says Jakel. “They carry durable steel, offer sufficient torque and come in complete sets without an excessive markup on the name brand.”

Home remodeler Danny Niemela also likes Costco’s bundled tool kits. “It’s a no-brainer for a garage setup,” he says. “You get a lot of tools, all with good-enough quality. It’s exactly what the average homeowner needs for weekend projects.”

Stick to tool brands you’ve heard of, says contractor Lewis Johnson, and keep receipts in case you need a warranty. Also, look for deep discounts on periodic overstock items, like shop vacs and snow blowers, says homebuilder and renovator Tyson Parker.

Workshop Essentials

Our experts recommend Costco for toolboxes, rolling tool carts, workbenches, folding tables, heavy-duty shelving, storage cabinets, air compressors, shop vacs and ladders. “Their LED shop lights are some of the most bang-for-your-buck,” says Niemela. “For about $25, you get a bank of shop lights that will illuminate a two-car garage without a single flicker.”

Costco also excels with essentials like extension cords, tape measures, utility knives, levels and batteries. Cleaner Andriy Neborak chooses Costco for Shark and Dyson vacuum cleaners, plus Rubbermaid mop and wringer systems, while landscaper Steve Corcoran appreciates their spades, rakes, pruners and lawn aerators.

Home Improvement Supplies in Bulk

Especially if you’re undertaking a big project, deals from Costco for DIYers include disposables like sanding disks, shop towels, tape, caulk, sponges, adhesives, wood filler, fertilizer, grass seed and WD-40. “We burn through items like this quickly, so buying reputable brands at a low cost per unit is ideal,” says contractor Lewis Johnson.

Jakel estimates that bulk buying drops his costs by 25 to 30 percent. “It also allows you to complete projects without running out halfway through, which really does save money and time in the long run.”

Plumber and HVAC specialist Megan Doser also likes Costco for basic bulk items. “Even if they are not of perfect quality, it rarely turns into a real problem.” But, she recommends buying from specialty suppliers for complex, precision and heavy-duty items.

Niemela also warns against buying paint, patching compounds and fasteners at Costco. “Chances are, you will end up sacrificing quality or mismatching, costing you double in remedial work,” he says.

Safety and Maintenance Items

Costco offers an excellent selection of safety gear, says Niemela. “They absolutely crush it on N95 masks, hearing protection, nitrile gloves and even disposable coveralls.”

Jakel agrees, adding fire extinguishers and first-aid kits to the list. “Safety gear only works if you have it on hand, so having spares does make a difference.”

Other deals from Costco for DIYers include smoke and CO detectors, work gloves and disinfectants and cleaners, like Simple Green and Clorox.

But “if you need boots or safety glasses, call it a hard pass,” says Niemela. “If comfort and OSHA-grade dependability matter to you, buy these from a professional supply house.”

FAQ

Are Costco tools the same quality as those sold at home improvement stores?

Sometimes. Costco sells many reliable brands, including DeWalt, Craftsman, Bosch and Milwaukee. But just because they’re the same name brand doesn’t always mean they’re the same quality, says Niemela. “Costco often works with brands to create an exclusive or private label that hits their price point,” he says. “You may not get as much steel in the chassis, fewer features, or a pared-down warranty. But it is a good value for the average DIYer, just not the full-time pro.”

Are Costco’s prices on hardware and tools always cheaper?

Nope. “Their pricing is strong, but it’s not always cheaper than Lowe’s or Home Depot, plus Costco rotates its stock, so tools might not always be available year-round,” says Tucker. “Still, the return policy alone makes Costco worth it on the big ticket items.”

Also, keep in mind that buying in bulk does have pitfalls, says Niemela. “Sure, you think you are saving big bucks, but unless you are renovating five bathrooms or rewiring an entire basement, you don’t need 200 feet of PEX tubing or six gallons of floor epoxy.”

About the Experts

• Danny Niemela is a contractor and vice president and CFO at ArDan Construction, a luxury home remodeling company in Scottsdale, Arizona.
• Megan Doser is a plumbing and HVAC expert, and owner and CEO at Doctor Fix It Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric in Denver.
• Andriy Neborak is founder and CEO of Luxury Cleaning NY, an elite cleaning service for Manhattan residents and corporations.
• Aaron Jakel is owner of Bubblegum Roofing and remodeling, which serves the greater Milwaukee area.
• Tyson Parker is owner of Craft Homes, a custom home builder and renovation company in Toronto, Ontario.
• Lewis Johnson is director of Cheshire Home Improvements and a home-improvement contractor with 20-plus years of hands-on experience.
• Zack Moorin is founder of Zack Buys Houses, a real estate solutions company based in Charlotte, North Carolina.
• Marion Tucker is a master plumber and owner of MET Plumbing in Katy, Texas. He has over 20 years of experience in plumbing and home improvement.
• Steve Corcoran is CEO of Lawn Love, a company that connects commercial and residential customers with local lawn care professionals.

Sources

• Amanda Groebner is co-owner of TimeWorn Wood, a Minnesota-based company specializing in reclaimed lumber and historic building restoration.

Related

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling

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Can an EV Really Power an Entire House? Here’s the Deal

I live in a neighborhood where it’s quite common to lose power for days at a time. With my wife working from home and Superstorm Sandy causing a week-long blackout, I purchased a 7,500-watt generator. An electrician installed a transfer switch, upgraded to a 200-amp service, and because my stove and clothes dryer are gas-fired, my generator easily powers my entire house, including the HVAC.

However, a relative recently purchased two new electric vehicles (EVs), and I began to wonder— could it be possible to use an EV battery as a generator to power my house during a blackout? Read along as an ASE Master Technician and other experts in efficient, intelligent home energy solutions explain what you need to know before safely using an EV generator (battery) to power your home during a blackout.

How EV Battery Power Works

First, lithium-ion batteries that power the vast majority of EVs do not produce electricity; they only store it. Similar to the lithium-ion batteries in our phones, laptops, and other devices, EV batteries are simply larger and contain several hundred to thousands of cells.

Each cell has a positive (+) cathode and a negative (-) anode separated by an electrolytic solution. When charging an EV battery from an external source (i.e., a battery charging station), an electrochemical reaction occurs. Lithium-ion ions flow from positive (+) to negative (-) through electrolysis, storing the charge in the battery as direct current (DC). When driving, the exact opposite takes place: “An inverter converts DC to alternating current (AC) to power an EV’s electric motors,” said Christopher Maiwald, Founder and CEO of Lectron, an EV charging provider.

ASE Master Technician Tom Diamond explained that electrolyte is often overlooked in the charging process. “Electrolyte maintains chemical stability that helps extend the lifespan of a Lithium-ion battery,” while improving their ability to hold a charge longer, said Diamond. “Current EV batteries commonly use three types of electrolytes, usually a liquid, solid-state, or gel/polymer (a gel-filled fluid in a plastic type state). New battery technology will extend the life, range, and an EV’s ability to maintain a charge longer in different operating and weather circumstances, at a lower price.”

What is Bidirectional Charging?

Bidirectional charging allows electricity to flow in both directions on the same circuit. “Bidirectional charging can be used to charge your EVs battery, as well as sending electricity [using UL certified attachments] back to power your home, or sending electricity back to the power grid, or provide power to other devices (power tools, camping gear, smart phones, air compressor),” explained Maiwald.

“A unidirectional (non-bidirectional) EV charging system stores energy for driving, while bidirectional chargers can reverse the power flow from the EV battery back to your home, or even the power grid,” said Daniel Fletcher, co-founder of DCBEL, a company that develops EV bidirectional charging systems.

Which Models Can Power A Home?

Select models from Ford, GM, Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, Tesla, Volkswagen, and Volvo currently offer some form of bidirectional charging capability. But check your owners or the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) to determine exactly the type of bidirectional charging system your vehicle has:

• Vehicle-to-Load (V2L) only powers external devices.
• Vehicle-to-Home (V2H) can power your home during service outages.
• Vehicle-to-Grid (V2G) sends energy back to the grid.

Maiwald believes, “These capabilities will increase across EV lineups once automakers adopt a single EV charging standard.”

Ford Intelligent Backup Power

Ford’s Intelligent Backup Power system, available on the F-150 Lightning, can provide up to 9.6 kilowatts (kW) of power, which, depending on usage, can power a home for two or three days. Ford’s backup system “enables the truck to automatically send stored battery energy to a home during an outage through a bidirectional charger (sold separately), effectively functioning as a backup [battery] generator,” said Maiwald.

Hyundai’s Vehicle-to-Load system

Hyundai’s Vehicle-to-Load (V2L) system allows drivers to power small appliances, tools, or electronics directly from their EV’s battery via an onboard outlet, “essentially turning the vehicle into a portable power source,” explained Maiwald. “Special V2L adapters designed for specific bidirectional vehicles are required to utilize this feature.”

Everything You Need to Power Your Home

Always consult your vehicle’s OEM, an electrician, home power service professionals and most importantly, your utility company before attempting to power your home using a V2H or H2G charger.

“A compatible integrated bidirectional inverter is needed to safely isolate any bidirectional EV from the grid (V2G) when powering your home,” explained Fletcher. Installing an automatic transfer switch (ATS) is essential. An ATS isolates your EV from the grid, but more importantly, it can sense when the power has come back on, “automatically switching” from EV to grid power.

Fletcher added that, to allow the grid to stabilize, “some utility companies and local municipalities require an ATS to modulate, or wait up to 15 seconds, before switching back to grid power.”

This is not a DIY installation. To eliminate safety concerns such as fire, GFCI, surge protection, and hard failsafe isolation (preventing current from feeding back into the grid that can electrocute powerline workers) always have a certified electrician, knowledgeable in V2G, while following all local code requirements, installs the bidirectional inverter to your homes electrical service. Depending on your home’s wiring, electrical service, and location where the inverter will be installed, installation can cost thousands of dollars.

Performance, Limitations and Challenges

A typical EV battery (60–100 kilowatt hours-kWh) can power an average home using about 30 kWh per day, for one to three days. This is assuming that your EV battery was fully charged before using it to power your home. For an additional cost, many V2G inverter system manufacturers incorporate solar panels and backup batteries as a way to lower energy costs, produce clean energy, help keep your lights on longer during a blackout, or even sell excess power back to your utility company.

When connecting an EV to the grid, “The [inverter] system must precisely match the grid’s waveform and voltage output,” said Fletcher. “It is critical—no matter which inverter [or system] you install—it meets International Organization for Standardization (ISO) Standard 15118. This ensures any V2G system matches and manages electron flow from the grid, ensuring safe and effective charging.”

FAQ

Can I just plug my EV into a wall outlet to power my house?

NO, absolutely NOT! “Backfeeding [plugging an extension cord directly from an EV, or home generator, into a receptacle in your home] is dangerous as well as illegal,” said certified electrician and Family Handyman contributing editor Ally Childress.

Is it safe to use an EV as a generator?

Yes, if your EV has bidirectional capability, and you have the appropriate hardware and software that are compatible with your EVs electronics. However, technically, an EV does not “generate” or produce electricity; it’s a battery that simply stores power until it’s needed.

Can I charge my EV from a gasoline or propane-powered generator?

Yes, but only in a desperate situation. First, check your generator’s specifications. EVs have sensitive electronics. Generators producing more than six percent low Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) can quickly damage those sensitive, expensive electronics. A Level 1 charger requires 1000 to 2000 watts to operate. A Level 2 charger requires 9600 watts, plus a 240 volt 40 amp output to function properly—plus the cost of the fuel to run the generator.

About the Experts

• Christopher Maiwald is the Founder and CEO of Lectron.
• Daniel Fletcher is Co-Founder and Head of Ecosystems and a seasoned leader in software and energy technology. Dan has deep expertise across renewable energy, EVs, and more. As head of Ecosystem for DCBEL Energy, Dan and his team are focused on making distributed energy work for everyone through strategic partnerships
• Tom Diamond has over 35 years of experience in the automotive repair industry as a technician and certified (Mazda) trainer. He has been an ASE Master Technician for over 25 years, is a PennDoT certified state safety inspector and is currently the Automotive Technology instructor at Father Judge High School in Philadelphia, PA. Interview Oct 29, 2025.

Resources

• ANSI: “ISO 15118-1:2019 Road vehicles – Vehicle to grid communication interface – Part 1: General information and use-case definition“
• ANSI: “UL 1741 Ed. 3-202, Standard for Inverters, Converters, Controllers and Interconnection System Equipment for Use With Distributed Energy Resources“
• Camille Cater, Sunrun Team at Antenna Group
• Edmunds: “What Is Bidirectional Charging and How Does It Work?”
• Ethan Heine, President and CEO of Suntrek Solar
• EVBattery: “Electrolytes and EV Range“
• Greg Field, Owner and Senior Energy Consultant with PGT Home Energy Solutions
• Joseph Vellone, CEO of ChargeScape
• Large Custom Batter: “Why Electrolytes Are Essential for Lithium Battery Function“
• Mark Halberg, Service Generator Estimator with Prairie Electric
• MIT Review: “How does an EV battery actually work?“
• U.S. News and Report: “NACS vs. CCS: What EV Shoppers Need to Know in 2025“

Related

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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Honda Recalls 400,000 Cars Because the Wheels Might Fall Off

DIYer’s Guide To Sealing Baseboards: Stop Drafts in 6 Steps

Remove old caulk

If your baseboards are caulked and the caulk has dried up and failed, it is essential to remove the old caulk before re-caulking the gap between the top of the baseboard and the wall. Depending on the caulks makeup and condition, this can be a headache of a process. For our situation, it was easiest to just remove the baseboard and clean the surface of both the wall and the back of the baseboard of old caulk using a putty knife.

Here’s how to get the baseboard off the wall. First, score the seam with a knife to facilitate easier removal of the baseboard. Start at one end of the baseboard piece and use a hammer to drive the trim puller into the gap between the wall and the baseboard. Move along the baseboard until it separates completely from the wall.

Remove any old nails from the baseboard with pliers before reattaching it to the wall. To reattach the baseboard, use a nail gun with 18-gauge Brad nails. Be sure to nail it to the studs or the bottom plate of the wall.

No quarter round?

Our drafty baseboard already had quarter-round molding installed on it from when we installed the new flooring. If you don’t have quarter-round or shoe molding, this can be the sole cause of drafty baseboards. Add it, and insert backer rod before installing the quarter-round if there are any gaps between the bottom of the baseboard and the floor.

Mask off drafty seams

Apply painters’ tape along the seams we’re sealing to keep your caulk beads in check and minimize painting touch-ups later on in the project.

Our focus is on two seams: the seam between the top edge of the baseboard and the wall, and the seam between the top edge of the quarter round and the face of the baseboard. Tape along the floor as well if you do not want caulk or paint on it, especially if it’s carpet.

Caulk the seams

Cut the tip of the caulk at a 45-degree angle for a smooth, controlled application. Start caulking the trim in a corner. Apply a thin bead of caulk to the gap between the top edge of the baseboard and the wall. If your trim is painted, apply a bead of caulk to the seam between the top edge of the quarter-round and the baseboard as well.  Use your finger to smooth out the bead of caulk and wipe away any excess with a damp rag.

Peel off the tape

While the caulk is still wet, peel the tape off. Clean up excess caulk with a wet rag before it dries. For the leftover caulk in the tube, cover the tip with tape or a caulk cap.

Fill and paint

If you removed and reinstalled your baseboard, fill your nail holes with wood filler to hide them. Then, lightly sand the holes smooth with 220-grit sandpaper. Clean up the dust afterwards to make sure everything is ready for painting.

Touch up the nail holes with paint while the caulk dries. After the caulk has dried, touch up the paint over the baseboard. You may need to re-mask off the areas you don’t want to paint before touching up.

There you have it! A finished, sealed baseboard that will save you money and keep your home cozy all through the year.

FAQ

Is it better to use caulk or wood filler to seal baseboard drafts?

Caulk is better for sealing baseboard drafts because it remains flexible and can accommodate the natural movement between the baseboards and the walls.

What is the best caulk for trim boards?

I found that the best caulk to use is acrylic latex or siliconized acrylic caulk, as they are flexible, durable, and easier to clean up.

Should a quarter-round be caulked?

Yes, all quarter-rounds should be caulked. Not caulking can let dust, pests, and drafts into your home.

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Drooping Ceiling Fan Blades? Here’s Why It Happens & How to Fix It

When we returned to our house after a hurricane, every fan blade inside was drooping. That wasn’t surprising. It had taken two weeks for the power to be restored, and without air conditioning for that long, the blades had become saturated by humidity. However, even without extreme weather, fan blades can be prone to sagging.

“Fan blades might droop for any number of reasons, and it is not something to ignore because it may be a hazard if the blades come loose,” says Jordan Benjamin of Done Rite Services. “It can also increase wear and tear on the fan.”

Luckily, the fix is often as easy as tightening a few screws or replacing the blades. Here’s how to figure out why your ceiling fan blades are drooping and whether it’s worth swapping them out or if it’s time to buy a new fan.

What Causes Fans to Droop?

Humidity is one of the most common causes of ceiling fan blades drooping or warping, especially if the blades are made from cheap materials. Other culprits include loose screws, physical damage, like from kids pulling on them, and old age. Over time, the rotational force of the spinning fan can take its toll, especially if the fan is located in a damp environment, such as a kitchen or basement.

“A common misconception is that the blades are drooping due to the motor dying, but this isn’t true,” says Scott Kegerreis of Kura Home Services.

Can I Fix the Droop?

Sometimes. If the screws that hold the blades in place are loose, the fix can be as easy as tightening them. Also, ensure that you wipe off dust buildup, as it can weigh down the blades.

If that doesn’t work, replacement blades are an option. “Check prices, though. Depending on the blades you’re purchasing, it may be more economical to just replace the whole fan,” says Tim Alagushov of IRBIS Air, Plumbing & Electrical.

When replacing blades, it’s also a good idea to address the cause of their damage in the first place. “For example, if you’ve got excess humidity in your home to the degree that it’s impacting your appliances, you would be well-served to speak with an HVAC tech to see what options you have,” says Alagushov.

When To Replace Fan Blades

Replace blades when they are visibly warped, cracked, damaged, worn, unbalanced or causing the fan to vibrate. “Warped blades can strain the motor, while peeling paint or cracking can make a mess and negatively impact your air quality,” says Alagushov. Also, “If a blade is falling apart, it may unexpectedly fly off the fan when it’s in motion, potentially hurting someone or damaging your home.”

When To Replace the Whole Fan

If your ceiling fan is making noise, wobbling, shaking or struggling to maintain speed, it’s probably time to replace it. “If your blades were warped for a long time, they likely put excess stress on the fan, causing the motor to wear down faster,” says Alagushov. “But compare prices and really get to the root cause of the issue before spending money on a solution.”

Ceiling Fan Maintenance

Dust the blades monthly, at a minimum, to prevent debris buildup. Kegerreis recommends using a microfiber cloth to keep dust from scattering everywhere. Then, while you’re up there, inspect the screws for looseness and make sure the mounting box is secure.

“My pro tip: reverse the fan direction twice a year,” says Kegerreis. “A clockwise direction in winter will push warm air down and a counterclockwise direction in the warmer months will provide a cool breeze.”

FAQ

Is replacing a ceiling fan difficult?

It depends. Replacing the blades is generally pretty easy. If you’re handy, replacing the whole ceiling fan also shouldn’t be too difficult to do by yourself. But keep in mind, it can be dangerous. “Since you are dealing with live voltage, I recommend leaving it to a licensed contractor or electrician,” says Benjamin. “Definitely turn the breaker off if you are ever going to attempt it yourself.”

How much should I expect to spend on a ceiling fan?

Basic fans range from around $75 to $250, with prices increasing from there depending on style, size, quality, energy efficiency and features such as lighting and smart controls. “Some high-end, designer ceiling fans can cost thousands, but the average fan shouldn’t run you more than $500,” says Alagushov.

If you opt not to DIY the task, professional installation typically runs between $200 to $300, but varies depending on where you live, plus your ceiling height, electrical access and the complexity of the model you choose.

About the Experts

• Jordan Benjamin is owner of Done Rite Services, an HVAC, plumbing and electrical company in Tucson, Arizona, which routinely handles fan replacements and installations.
• Tim Alagushov is COO of IRBIS Air, Plumbing & Electrical, a San Jose-based HVAC company.
• Scott Kegerreis is owner of Kura Home Services, a company specializing in home maintenance, based along Colorado’s Front Range.

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Is Driving Barefoot Illegal? Footwear Laws Every Driver Should Know

Plenty of daily drivers throw on whatever is by the door and get rolling, only to realize halfway down the street that their shoes aren’t helping. “Driving footwear” sounds trivial, but it affects pedal feel, reaction time, and comfort on long stretches.

The law in the United States mostly cares about control of the vehicle, while your feet care about support and stability. The goal is a setup that keeps both happy and keeps the ride drama-free.

Discover if it’s safe (and legal) to wear heels, sandals, and barefoot driving, plus practical guidance on popular shoe styles and research-backed considerations to pick sensible driving footwear.

Is It Legal To Drive In High Heels?

Yes. It is legal in the United States to drive in high heels. No state lists a specific shoe style as illegal; enforcement focuses on whether the driver maintains safe control of the vehicle, and unsafe operation can still be cited under general rules.

Practical comfort is a different question. Elevated heels can change ankle position and dull pedal feedback.

Is It Legal To Drive In Sandals?

Yes. Sandals, including flip-flops, are legal to wear while driving across the United States. What matters is safe control. That said, loose and backless styles can slip, fold, or catch on a pedal, which is why many road safety pros caution against them for everyday driving.

Flip-flops are often seen as a poor choice because their thin soles and straps can snag or slip when you need steady pressure.

Is It Legal To Drive Barefoot?

Yes, it’s legal to drive barefoot in all 50 states. Despite common myths, no state bans it. The key is maintaining control of your vehicle, since you can still be cited if a loss of control causes an accident.

Bare feet offer good pedal feel but can slip easily, especially when wet. Keep a small towel in your car to dry your feet and a secure pair of shoes nearby for quick stops or hot pavement.

Other Common Footwear Options, From Practical To Problematic

Snug, Low-Profile Sneakers Or Flat Boots

Often, the best everyday driving footwear. Thin, flexible soles deliver good feedback, a closed heel keeps the shoe planted, and a modest tread grips the pedal. If feet feel cramped, move the seat to set the ankle in a neutral position so the heel rests comfortably on the floor.

Work Boots And Heavy Hikers

Legal and protective, but thick, stiff soles can blunt pedal sensitivity. Adjust the seat and test a few gentle brake and accelerator presses before heading out to recalibrate the feel.

Platform Shoes And Thick Clogs

The extra sole thickness reduces finesse and can catch on pedal edges. If platforms are part of the day’s plan, stash a slimmer pair for the actual drive and switch in the parking lot.

Mules, Slides, And Backless Loafers

Easy to wear, yet easy to slip. With no heel counter, these styles can migrate off a pedal at the worst moment. They are legal, but they are not confidence builders for quick transitions.

Rain Boots And Bulky Weather Gear

Oversized shafts and thick soles can limit ankle mobility and dull feel.

Motorcycle Footwear Note

Passenger vehicles do not mandate shoes, but riders face separate requirements and recommendations. Sturdy boots remain the norm for bikes, and local rules should be checked before riding.

Practical Tips For Safer Pedal Control

• Keep a dedicated pair of slim, secure driving footwear in the trunk or under the seat.
• Before pulling away, tap each pedal and sweep the foot side to side to confirm nothing snags.
• If footwear feels slippery or vague on the pedal, stop and switch instead of trying to adapt mid-drive.
• After rain, the beach, or a pool stop, dry both feet and pedal pads to prevent slipping.

SOURCES

• “A Comparison of Gait Biomechanics of Flip-Flops, Sandals, Barefoot and Shoes.” PubMed Central
• “The Effects of Wearing High Heels While Pressing a Car Accelerator Pedal on Lower Extremity Muscle Activation.” Journal of Physical Therapy Science via PubMed Central

RELATED:

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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Why Your Tire Pressure Light Won’t Turn Off (And How to Fix It)

My Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid has an impressive array of warning lights that illuminate at startup, and fortunately, most of them go off after a few seconds. Except for one. It’s amber, and it looks like an underlined exclamation mark surrounded by brackets. Brock Bowman, the sales manager at a tire retailer, informed me that the symbol is supposed to resemble a flat tire (OK…) and that it serves as the indicator for the tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). In other words, it’s the tire pressure light.

I’ve tried to turn the light off, but it won’t, even after verifying that the pressure in all four tires is correct. After researching the issue, I figure it’s probably time to take the car to the shop. Why do most contemporary vehicles have this light? What does it mean when it comes on, and what should you do when it won’t go off? Here’s what to know.

What Is a Tire Pressure Indicator Light?

The tire pressure light is part of the TPMS, and it comes on when the pressure in one or more tires falls below a threshold amount from the recommended pressure, usually between 10 and 25 percent, depending on the vehicle model. For most models (except some Hondas), the sensors that monitor pressure are located on the wheel rims behind the air valve stems, which puts them inside the tires. Besides activating the dashboard light, they can also send an alert to the dealer’s repair network if you subscribe to this service.

What Causes the Light to Turn On?

Bowman explains that the tire pressure light illuminates when the TPMS “detects a significant pressure discrepancy in one or more tires.” Even the spare tire can trigger the system. A tire can lose pressure for any of the following reasons:

• A puncture or slow leak;
• seasonal temperature drops;
• natural loss of pressure over time.

The tire pressure light can also illuminate when you install the spare tire, says Bowman. “Many temporary spares lack TPMS sensors, or if they have one, they might not be properly integrated or inflated to the correct pressure for the main system.” The TPMS can also get confused when you rotate the tires, he continues, and if that isn’t the reason the light went on, it may be because of a malfunctioning sensor. Sensors have batteries, and a dead battery can send incorrect readings or no signal at all.

How To Check Your Tire Pressure

Some vehicles, including my Crosstrek, have an onboard monitoring system that displays the pressure in each tire. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work when the TPMS light is on, which means you have to manually check the pressure in each tire with a pressure gauge.

Using a Gauge

You can use a manual pressure gauge, which resembles a pen light and features a spring-loaded, graduated bar that allows you to read the tire pressure. I prefer, however, to use the gauge on a battery-powered compressor I keep in the car, because the digital display is more accurate. Either way, the procedure is simple:

1. Unscrew the valve cap from each tire.
2. Engage the head of the gauge with each tire valve in turn. If you’re using a handheld gauge, press the head onto the valve until the scale bar pops out from the other end. If you’re using a compressor, screw the hose onto the valve.
3. Check the reading. If you’re using a handheld tester, the pressure corresponds to the last gradation that appears. If you’re using a compressor, the pressure will be displayed on its LED screen. Both readings are typically in PSI.
4. Replace the valve cap after making each reading and inflating the tire as needed.

Where To Find Recommended PSI Levels

The manufacturer’s tire pressure recommendations are displayed on a label attached to the chassis inside the driver’s door. Open the door, look down, and you’ll see it. Failing that, you can also find tire pressure specs in the vehicle’s owner’s manual.

• Pro tip: Check the label carefullybecause the recommendations for the front and back tires are often different. For example, on my vehicle, the front tires should be inflated to 36 psi and the rear tires to 35 psi.

Recalibrate the System

If the TPMS was triggered by a drop in tire pressure, it has to reset after you inflate the tires. The tire pressure light will stay on until you do one of the following:

Drive It Off

Bowman advises driving the car for 10 to 20 minutes at speeds above 15 mph. That may be enough to make the light go off.

Use the Reset Button

Some vehicles have a reset button for the TPMS located under the steering column, in the glove box or on the dashboard. If you can’t find it in your vehicle, check the owner’s manual to verify that there is one. After you press it, you may still have to drive the car for a while to make the light go off.

Use the Dashboard Menu

In lieu of a reset button, some vehicles may have a reset function in the infotainment system. Scroll through the menu to find it.

What To Do If Your Light Won’t Go Off

“If the tires are properly inflated and the light remains on, it indicates a system issue,” says Bowman. His advice:

• Inspect for slow leaks: Even a small, non-obvious puncture can cause gradual pressure loss that triggers the light.
• Visit a mechanic or tire shop to assess the TPMS sensors for battery or signal failure or to reprogram or replace faulty sensors.

FAQ

Why is tire pressure important?

Maintaining the correct tire pressure is important for at least three reasons:

• Safety – Properly inflated tires maintain contact with the road at all times, helping prevent skids as well as steering and braking issues.
• Fuel mileage – Your car has to work harder when the tires are underinflated, and it consumes more fuel.
• Tire wear – Tires wear out more quickly when they aren’t inflated properly.

Can I drive with the tire pressure light on?

The tire pressure light is simply a warning indicator and doesn’t affect the car’s operation. If you verify all tires are properly inflated, and the light stays on, it’s safe to continue driving until you have time to bring the car in for service. While it’s on, you can always check the tires the old-fashioned way by getting out of the car and using a pressure gauge.

About the Expert

• Brock Bowman is the Senior Vice President of Business Development at Tires Easy, an online tire retailer.

RELATED

• Do You Know What That Little Button on Your Seat Belt Is For?
• What Those Lines on Your Backup Camera Really Tell You
• Here’s What The Small Panel On Your Car’s Front Bumper Is For

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