10 Dollar Store Storage Solutions That Will Up Your Organization Game

Stackable Baskets for the Pantry

The dollar store has plenty of plastic baskets to choose from, but these are one of my favorites because they’re stackable; which helps utilize vertical space that would otherwise be wasted. They’re usually located in the premium aisle (where you’ll find products that cost more than the standard $1.25), but at $6 each, you won’t find a basket of this size or quality for a lower price anywhere else. Stack them at the bottom of your pantry for easy access to snacks, or under your sink for cleaning supplies. The open front makes reaching in for items super convenient.

Glass Jars for Bathroom Organization

The dollar store is most commonly known for affordable plastic products, but they have plenty of high-quality glass containers, too. These cute glass storage jars are in the food storage area, but are perfect for organizing small bathroom items like Q-tips, cotton balls, and hair ties. Spray paint the lids gold for a more designer aesthetic, then set them on a pretty tray to complete the look.

Trinket Box for Jewelry

I was surprised to see these glass trinket boxes at my local dollar store for only $5. The gold detailing and mirrored bottom give it a look that easily suggests it could have come from a high-end store. (This similar box from Michael’s is priced at $26!) Set one on your bedroom dresser or bathroom vanity to keep favorite jewelry pieces out on display and dust-free. No one will believe you got it from the dollar store!

Flat Food Containers for Games

I have a cabinet full of board games at my house, and with three kids, the cardboard game boxes started to break and fall part. So, I picked up several of these rectangular food containers from the dollar store that are just about the same size as a board game box. I transferred each game into a plastic container and labeled the side. Now all the games are stacked, organized, and help make clean-up time easy.

Woven Basket for the Entry Table

Sometimes the smallest storage solutions make the biggest difference. Keep this woven basket on your front entry table to contain keys, loose change, or a wallet. This keeps the entry tidy and avoids the dreaded search for your car keys when the family is in a rush to leave the house. The basket comes in three different neutral colors options, and the best part is, they look like they cost much more than $1.25 each!

Junk Drawer Organization

If you’re like me, you might be in a losing battle with your junk drawer. The right drawer organizers can make all the difference—and the dollar store has plenty of options. I recommend measuring the length and width of your drawer before heading to the store. That way, you can get the right-sized pieces to fill the drawer and maximize space. This three-compartment organizer is one of my favorites for both the kitchen junk drawer and my makeup drawer in the bathroom. The clear plastic looks like one of those high-end acrylic organizers from The Container Store, and it’s easy to wipe clean.

Versatile Hardware Storage Case

This handy hardware storage case has a lid that snaps close and separate compartments to keep little items separated. It’s great for its intended use, storing small hardware items like screws and bolts; but I also like to use one to keep different size batteries organized. You could also put it in the office for things like paper clips and thumb tacks, or in the craft room for all those tiny baubles and beads. I’ve even seen this used as a snack container for road trips!

Laundry Baskets for Sporting Equipment

My kids love to play all different sports, so my garage was becoming completely cluttered with sports equipment. Instead of an expensive garage organization system, I picked up a few dollar store laundry baskets like these. I placed them on a shelf and labeled each one with a different sport. Now my kids can easily grab their football flags or baseball glove before practice, and put everything back when they’re done.

Wall Hooks for Closet Organization

These wire wall hooks are nothing special to look at, and a little too flimsy for hanging towels; but they’re perfect for inside a closet. Mount them on the wall or the back of the closet door. Then use the seven hooks to hang small items like ties, scarves, purses or hats. It’s a great way to clear of up precious shelf or drawer space. I’ve also seen these mounted inside a kitchen cabinet to hang measuring cups and spoons!

Refrigerator Organization

I have a fairly small fridge, and items seem to always get lost in the back to expire without me noticing! I want to overhaul my fridge system with bins. Fridge organizing bins are a good idea in theory, but you need several to make a difference, so the cost adds up. This fridge bin from the dollar store is only $1.25, while this similarly sized bin from Target is $9! Use these for sorting produce or organizing kids’ snacks, like yogurt and string cheese. The handles make it easy to pull out and grab what you need.

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Are Your Seasonal Allergies Acting Up? Your Fake Christmas Tree May Be to Blame

Christmas trees have long been a symbol of the season, meant to bring light and warmth into the home. But what if they bring along other, less cheerful things like mold, allergens or chemical vapors? It can make you look at that trusted holiday tradition in a little different light.

Artificial trees, first introduced in the 1930s, have now passed real trees in popularity, with about 77 percent of U.S. homes putting up a fake tree each year. If you’re one of them, read on to learn about the possible health risks that come with fake Christmas trees, with expert insights from Mike Schade at Toxic Free Future, Michael Sacenti from American Healthy Homes and Michael Church from Crawl Space Ninja.

What Happens To a Christmas Tree In Storage?

While in storage, Christmas trees can gather dust and debris, especially if stored uncovered. When stored in sunlight or in warm temperatures, the materials used to manufacture fake Christmas trees break down, leaving the needles faded or brittle. They can also become infested with bugs or mice during their months in storage.

Potential Health Risks

While fake Christmas trees can pose various indoor air quality issues, they are also made with chemical-based materials that can expose you and your loved ones to potential health risks.

Mold and mildew

If a fake Christmas tree is stored in a humid space, it can develop mold or mildew on its needles or branches. “All mold needs moisture, darkness and organic material to grow,” Sacenti says. While the tree itself isn’t organic, being made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), mold can grow on dust, pet hair or dander that collects while it’s on display. If the tree is then packed away in a dark, damp place, mold can easily grow during the months it’s in storage. “It’s the perfect growing environment,” Sacenti adds.

Mold and mildew can trigger sneezing, itchy eyes or wheezing in people with mold allergies, and they can be especially risky for anyone who is immunocompromised or has a lung condition.

Pest contamination

Bugs and vermin can move into trees while they’re in storage, especially in damp basements. “Pests like bugs, termites, arachnids, mice and snakes all love moist spaces,” Church says. Spiders are the most common, but carpet beetles will also feed on layers of dust or pet hair, leading to an infestation. So, give the tree a thorough cleaning before storing it to reduce this risk.

Mice will nest in a fake Christmas tree, even when stored correctly, as it’s a quiet, dark hiding place with plenty of nearby materials to build a nest.

Allergens

If a fake Christmas tree isn’t properly covered during storage, it can collect dust, pollen, pet dander and other debris throughout the off-season. When you bring it back into your home at Christmas, all of those particles get stirred up into the air and may trigger allergy symptoms in anyone who’s sensitive to them. Always store Christmas trees in sealed bags or containers.

Chemical exposure

Most Christmas trees are made of PVC, which Schade refers to as “the poison plastic” due to its use of hazardous chemicals, such as vinyl chloride, a known carcinogen, in its production. “PVC products also commonly contain toxic additives such as lead, cadmium, organotins and phthalates, which can migrate or leach out over time,” he says. Exposure to these chemicals has been associated with elevated risk of endocrine disruption, developmental delays and certain types of cancer.

What is Chemical Off-Gassing?

When new products made of PVC are exposed to air, they release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in a process known as off-gassing. These chemical vapors can cause headaches and breathing discomfort in some individuals. Letting the tree air out outside for several days can help reduce exposure.

Fake Christmas trees are also treated with flame retardants, which also off-gas and settle into household dust. Exposure to flame retardants is associated with hormonal issues, developmental disruption and some cancers.

How To Properly Store a Christmas Tree

Remove all lights and ornaments, then disassemble the tree from the top down. Wipe each section down with a damp, microfiber cloth to remove any accumulated dust or pet fur before storage. Alternatively, take the tree outside and use a leaf blower on a low setting. Push the branches down against the trunk, then carefully place them inside a Christmas tree storage bag or large plastic tote with a lid. Store the tree sections in a cool, dry area away from sunlight for the duration of the off-season.

FAQ

How do I know when it’s time to replace my artificial tree?

Look for brittle or faded needles, broken branches or a loss of fullness to know when it’s time to replace your tree. Malfunctioning lights (on pre-lit trees) are another sign it’s time to replace a tree. Factors such as the tree’s original quality, storage conditions and usage will all determine its longevity.

Can I clean my fake tree?

It’s recommended to clean fake Christmas trees before storage to remove accumulated dust, pet fur, or dander that has gathered while on display. Use a damp, microfiber cloth to wipe down all surfaces, or use a leaf blower outdoors on a low setting.

About the Experts

• Michael Church is Founder and CEO of Crawl Space Ninja, a home service company specializing in crawl space management. He’s also host of the homeowner educational YouTube Channel, Crawl Space Ninja.
• Michael Sacenti owns American Healthy Homes. He has 10 years of experience in the mold remediation industry and 40 years of experience in real estate maintenance.
• Mike Schade is Senior Director of Programs and Strategy for Toxic Free Future, a non-profit committed to environmental health research and advocacy.

Sources

• The Center for Health, Environment & Justice Artificial Christmas Tree
• Environment International Human health risk associated with brominated flame-retardants (BFRs) (2015)
• International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health Effects and Mechanisms of Phthalates’ Action on Reproductive Processes and Reproductive Health (2020)

Related

• 7 Reasons Why Your Houseplants Might Stink
• 8 Must-Know Tips to Drought-Proof Your Lawn
• Tired of Raking Leaves? Plant These Trees Instead

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Build Your Own Round Storage Ottoman from Scratch

Cut the Circles and hoops

Use a router equipped with a circle cutting jig to cut the circles (A and B) and hoops (C and D) from the cut list above. Cut each circle in three to four passes to avoid overheating the router and the bit and keep the circles accurate and clean.

Then move on to cutting the 1×2 framing members for the storage section (E), lid (F), and toe (G) of the ottoman at the miter saw.

Nail together the sections

Use wood glue and a staple gun with 1-1/2-in. narrow crown staples to secure the toe, storage, and lid sections together, as shown in the drawing above. Ensure the framing members (E, F, G) are uniformly spaced and flush to the outside edge of the hoop (C, D) or circle (A, B) they correspond with. Don’t worry if any of your hoops end up narrower than the 1×2, like mine did. Just ensure that the outside edges are flush. Clean up any glue squeeze out with a damp shop rag.

Optional: Blocking was added to the toe section in the form of a scrap 1×2 “X”. The blocking pieces are the exact height of the small hop (D) when the toe is assembled and are placed there so when attaching the toe to the storage section, I don’t get wood glue squeeze-out all over the toe veneer.

Rip the bending plywood

On the table saw, rip four strips of bending plywood (aka bending plywood) to the finished widths of the stapled-together toe, storage (interior and exterior), and lid sections of your ottoman. Don’t worry about cutting the strips to length just yet.

Staple bending plywood to each section

Use clamps to dry-fit the bending plywood around the outside of the toe and lid sections of your ottoman. And, around both the outside and inside of the storage section.  As you clamp it around each form, mark and cut the bending plywood length at the miter saw. It may still be a little long when you get to securing the piece, but simply trim it with a pullsaw. Use glue and 1-1/2-in. narrow crown staples to secure the bending plywood to the framing.

Apply the walnut veneer

Sand the bending plywood to ensure it is smooth and flush with the top and bottom of the toe section of the ottoman, and clean it thoroughly to remove dust. Use contact cement to attach the walnut veneer to the base. Spray generously to both the back of the veneer and the bending plywood surface, and allow a few minutes for the contact cement to set up before attaching it.

Use a laminate roller or smooth wood block to apply even pressure to the veneer to ensure it is smooth and adheres. Then, trim any excess with a sharp utility knife or file so that it is flush with the edge of the small circle (B) and hoop (D) of the toe. Lightly sand the face of the veneer to remove any cement adhesive that may have found its way onto it.

Attach the toe to the storage section

Use a caliper or tape measure to center the toe section on the bottom of the storage section. Secure them together using wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails through the bottom circle (A) of the storage section into the small hoop (D) and blocking of the toe.

Attach foam to the lid

Trace the lid’s top circle (A) onto the foam with a permanent marker. Use a reciprocating electric meat carving knife to cut the foam. Attach the cut foam to the lid with spray adhesive. Spray the spray adhesive on both the bottom of the foam and the top of the lid. Be sure to allow the adhesive time to set up before attaching the foam.

Attach batting to lid and storage section

The batting should be folded over two to three inches on the underside of the lid. Dry fit it and cut it. Lightly spray the attached foam with spray adhesive, center the batting on it, and staple it into place with the narrow crown stapler and 1/2-in. staples. Cut excess batting as needed.

Move on to attaching the batting to the storage section. Once again, dry-fit the batting around the section and cut it. You should staple it around the large circle (A) at the bottom of the storage section, then fold it over the top and staple it into the storage cavity about two inches down the interior wall. Cut excess batting as needed. To close the middle section seam, create a neat fold and secure it in place with CA glue.

Cover with upholstery fabric

Cover the lid and the storage section with upholstery fabric. Cut the fabric slightly larger than the batting. Use the crown stapler to secure it, completely covering the batting on the underside of the lid and along the bottom of the storage section. The fabric inside the storage cavity should be stapled and treated with Fray Check or the edge folded over to prevent unraveling as you move items in and out over time.

To create the seam, cut the fabric so that it overlaps itself on the storage section cylinder by two or three inches. Fold it over tightly and use CA glue to hold the seam in place. When stapling around a circular item, be careful not to pull the fabric, as this can distort the pattern.

Make indexing circle for lid

For the lid to close properly and index with the storage section of the ottoman, rout a solid wood circle that will be attached to the underside of the lid. We chose walnut because it also functions as a tabletop in certain instances.

The walnut circle must fit snugly within the top hoop (C) of the storage section’s finished inner dimensions, including the bending plywood, batting, and fabric. Adjust the diameter of this circle according to the thickness of your materials. Our circle had a diameter of 16-5/8-in.

Glue and clamp a panel of 3/4-in. thick boards so that it is slightly wider than the diameter of the circle. Next, rout it using the router and the circle cutting jig as you did with all the other circles and hoops. Sand the face and edges so they are smooth and free of glue residue.

Use two-inch brad nails to secure the walnut circle to the underside of the lid. If the lid does not feel secure, add a 1-1/4-in. screw in the center divot made by the fastener used with the circle cutting jig.

Finishing touches

Fill any holes in the interior of the storage compartment and indexing circle with wood filler. Apply a wipe-on finish to the toe veneer and walnut indexing circle and let it dry.

FAQ

Can I sit on a storage ottoman?

Yes, you can sit on a storage ottoman. Make sure that you sit still, as some ottomans, such as this one, do not have attached lids.

How tall should an ottoman be compared to a couch?

The height of your ottoman should match or be slightly lower (by an inch or two) than the seat height of your couch.

What fabric is best for ottomans?

For this project, I suggest using upholstery-grade fabric without a pattern unless you have prior experience covering circular objects.

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9 Dollar Tree Tools That Are the Ultimate Steal

Paint Brushes

I recently had to repaint the exterior of my house, which has T1-11 siding and wood trim. While I could have rented an airless sprayer, I decided to do the job by hand and avoid problems with overspray. I didn’t have any paintbrushes (rollers won’t work on T1-11 because of the grooves), and since I’m on a budget, I decided to give the Dollar Tree brushes a try. I bought a set of that included a 1.5- and 3-inch brush. The smaller brush had a tapered edge, so I used it for the trim, and the wider brush for the siding itself.

A frequent problem with cheap brushes is that they lose bristles, but these brushes didn’t. The smooth plastic handles were ergonomic and easy to use. After the job was complete, they cleaned up well and are now part of my tool collection.

• Total cost: $1.50 plus tax. That’s about a third of what similar brushes would cost at the hardware store.

Paint Rollers

Besides brushes, Dollar Tree also stocks 12-inch roller frames ($1.50) and roller sleeves (also $1.50). The sleeves have a 3/8-inch nap, which is suitable for most interior and exterior surfaces. The frame has a threaded handle, and a screw-on extension pole can be found in the section of the store that sells cleaning supplies. I didn’t find paint trays, but the clerk directed me to foil baking pans, which are sold with the cooking supplies and work just as well.

• Total cost: $3.00 for the roller frame and sleeve, $1.50 for the extension pole and $1.75 for the baking pan. Altogether, $6.25 plus tax.

Levels

I bought my 2-foot level 10 years ago when dollar store tools were still a dollar, and it’s the only one I use. It has a plastic body graduated in sixteenths of an inch and millimeters, and it features three bubbles — one for horizontal, one for vertical and one for diagonal measuring. The design of the current Dollar Tree offering has been improved to include a magnetic edge to ensure the tool stays put on metal surfaces.

Dollar Tree also stocks an 8-inch torpedo level with a magnetic edge, two bubble settings and a feature I’ve never seen before; a graduated gauge that tells you exactly how far your surface is out of level. This tool is perfect for straightening pictures and shelves, as well as for other home DIY repairs.

• Total cost: $1.50 plus tax for either tool.

Tape Measures

You won’t find a 16- or 25-foot tape for $1.50 on Amazon or anywhere else. Although the 16-foot model is fairly basic, the 25-foot one features a rubber casing and a ratcheting gear that prevents the tape from retracting until you press a button. Additionally, the tape is graduated in both fractions of an inch and millimeters. Either one provides all you need in a tape measure, and then some, so why would you get one anywhere else?

You can also find a 33-foot tape measure, but it’s a bit more expensive.

• Total cost: $1.50 for a 16- or 25-foot tape measure and $5.00 for a 33-foot one.

Pliers and Wrenches

A set that includes both standard and needle-nose pliers costs $1.50. I’ve never tried them, but they look capable of doing most plier-related jobs, including gripping screws and nails, twisting wires and bending metal. They’re sturdily built, and they have insulated handles, which you need for basic electrical work.

The store also stocks a 10-inch spanner for $5.00. Also for $5.00: Three hex wrench sets that include virtually every size of hex wrench — in both metric and Imperial units — you’ll ever need. Oh, and one more thing: a 40-piece socket wrench set for $7.00.

• Total cost: $18.00 for everything.

Screwdrivers and Driver Bits

One Dollar Tree offering is a set of two Phillips head or two flathead screwdrivers (your choice), one with a full-length shaft and one stubby one, for $1.50. But the best deal, in my opinion, is the ratcheting screwdriver with a 29-piece assortment of driver heads and sockets for $5.00. That’s hard to beat.

Dollar Tree also sells a 4-volt rechargeable screwdriver for $7.00. It might be suitable for minor DIY projects, but it’s relatively lightweight, and more powerful battery drills are available at an affordable price, so I’d recommend skipping this product.

• Total cost: $8.00 for a set of four standard screwdrivers and a ratcheting screwdriver with all the driving bits you’re likely to need.

Clamps

DIY woodworkers often need to clamp their work to a bench, and clamps are also useful for various other household purposes; however, they can be pretty expensive at the hardware store. Dollar Tree sells three types: 4-inch spring-loaded bench clamps ($1.50 per pair), 4-inch bar clamps ($3.00 per pair) and 6-inch bar clamps ($3.00 each).

• Total cost: $7.50 for an assortment of five clamps.

Utility Knives

Next to a hammer, the tool I most often reach for in my tool collection is a utility knife, and I’ve long been a fan of the heavy-duty one with a snap-off blade available at Dollar Tree for $1.50. It’s sturdy enough for most home improvement and construction purposes, and it comes with two extra blades. Also: A set of three smaller box-cutters with snap-off blades for $1.50.

• Total cost: $3.00 for all four knives.

Ropes, Bungees and Cable Ties

Ropes and bungees are often overlooked DIY supplies, but when you need them, you’ll be surprised at how expensive they can be. Dollar Tree has several offerings that can save you a bundle when you need to fasten something, tie it down or secure it to your truck:

• 25-foot para cord with winder ($1.50);
• Diamond braid rope: 40-foot ($1.50), 100-foot ($5.00)
• 10-piece bungee cord set ($5.00)

You’ll also find various assortments of cable ties, from short to medium lengths. They are available in sets that cost $1.50 each.

• Total cost: Less than $20.00 for all the rope, bungees and cable ties you’re likely to need.

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Hiring a Professional Organizer: Is It Worth the Money?

Professional organizers can help you take back control of messy closets, an out-of-control pantry, and overwhelming clutter. But are their services worth the price? The answer depends on a few different factors, including your personal budget and how much organizing help you need (just one small closet, or the whole house?). And although a professional organizer cost isn’t exactly cheap, they can completely transform your home—in more ways than you might think.

We spoke to three professional organizers to understand exactly what they can provide for the average homeowner, and how much you can expect to spend.

What Is a Professional Organizer?

A professional organizer helps you organize your home! Each organizer is different, so be sure to research the specific services they offer. Generally, an organizer will help you declutter and create efficient storage systems for your problem areas. Additionally, some organizers stage homes, shop for products, and will even take away your donated items.

“At the core, professional organizers are problem solvers,” says professional organizer Robyn Reynolds, “We implement systems to help you manage your clutter, we design closets to help maximize the space, we remove the stress during moves by coordinating all the logistics and unpacking and organizing you in your new home.”

What Do Professional Organizers NOT Do?

One thing a professional organizer is not is a house cleaner. If you’ve hired an organizer to tackle your bedroom closet, for example, it should be clear of dirty laundry and ready for sorting and rearranging. Most organizers will wipe down the shelves where they’re working, but they don’t deep-clean the space. “While I will do light cleaning, if a space is too dirty or poses a potential health risk, I will recommend hiring a professional cleaner before I begin working with someone,” says professional organizer Lenora O’Keith.

Another thing organizers won’t do is throw away your belongings without your consent. “We never force clients to get rid of things,” says professional organizer Christian Pfeiffer. “We encourage, but the client is always in control.”

How Much Do Professional Organizers Cost?

Typically, a professional organizer will charge about $100 to $150 per hour for one to two organizers. Please note that the price does not include any additional containers you may need. Some organizers charge by the project. At Pfeiffer’s company, Valley Organizing, smaller spaces, such as entry closets, laundry rooms, bathrooms and pantries, will cost $700 to $1,400. While an entire home organization or a big garage resets cost anywhere from $2,500 to $8,000.

If those prices sound steep, consider saving a significant amount of money with virtual organizing services. “I provide virtual sessions for a fraction of the cost of in-person sessions,” says O’Keith. “If clients don’t mind doing the physical part of decluttering and donating items themselves, but want the guidance and support of an organizer throughout the process, virtual sessions are a great option.”

Is a Professional Organizer Right for Me?

If you feel lost and overwhelmed about where to even begin organizing a space, it might be time to call in the professionals. Even if you hire an organizer to only do one closet, you can learn from their systems and methods and implement them in other areas of your home. According to Pfeiffer, other people who might be a good fit for a professional organizer are: busy professionals or families who don’t have the time to reset their space, homeowners who recently moved and want the new space to start off organized, and people who want to be organized, but their current setup makes it harder than it should be.

Tips for Finding a Professional Organizer

Once you decide to hire a professional organizer, you’ll obviously want to find someone who is dependable and offers quality work. “Ask for referrals from people you know that might have used a professional organizer, or search NAPO which is the oldest industry association,” says Reynolds. Be sure to read reviews, and look at photos of their past projects to ensure they meet your standards.

Hiring an organizer can be a vulnerable experience, so a face-to-face meeting before the work begins is always a good idea. “I wouldn’t start working with an organizer without a consultation,” says O’Keith. “This step benefits both the organizer and the client, so you can both get to know a bit more about each other and see if you click.”

Resources for finding an organizer in your area:

• NAPO – National Association of Productivity and Organizing Professionals
• NABPO – National Association of Black Professional Organizers
• ICD – Institute of Challenging Disorganization

About the Experts

• Robyn Reynolds is a professional organizer and owner of Organize2Harmonize. She is a long-time member of NAPO, NABPO, she is a past President of the BCPO (Board of Certifying Professional Organizers), and was co-chair of the 2012 Organizing Awards.
• Lenora O’Keith is a professional organizer, owner of Aronel Home, and the creator of the Aronel Home app—the first and only app for home organization and decluttering. She is also a certified KonMari Consultant.
• Christian Pfeiffer is a professional organizer based in Phoenix and the owner of Valley Organizing; where he offers nonjudgmental organizing, decluttering, packing, unpacking, downsizing, and hoarding services. He is a member of the National Association of Professional Organizers.

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Can You Drive Over the Speed Limit in the Left Lane? Passing Lane Laws Explained

Never Pay For Air: How To Fill Up Your Car Tires For Free

Unless you’re in a pinch, paying for a self-service air compressor at the corner gas station isn’t necessary. There are plenty of free air hoses around, and in states like California and Florida, gas stations are even legally required to provide free air to customers.

For extra convenience, some drivers steer clear of the pumps altogether and buy a portable air compressor. Those eventually pay for themselves, plus add the safety of having air anywhere, anytime, while on the road.

Whether you’re looking for a service station with free air or the perfect portable compressor to keep in your vehicle, here’s what to know about options for refilling your tires for free.

How Much Does Filling Your Tires at a Gas Station Cost?

It depends. Some stations offer it for free, while others have self-service machines that typically cost between $1.50 and $5.00 for three to five minutes of air.

How To Find a Gas Station With Free Air

• FreeAirPump.com offers a crowdsourced map of locations providing free air.
• Wawa, Sheetz, Buckee’s, Racetrac and Costco stations all offer free air.
• Some local stations do, too. Look for an air hose on the side of the building. “If the gas station has a shop, most of the time they will air up a low tire for free,” says master-certified technician Chris Pyle.
• Local mechanics, oil change centers and car dealers may also provide the service, especially for regular customers.

“Some auto parts stores will also check your tire pressure and offer top-offs for free,” says Duane “Doc” Watson of Bosch Mobility Aftermarket. “It never hurts to call around and ask!”

How To Fill Your Tires for Free at Home

If you want to fill your tires without visiting a gas station, consider purchasing your own air compressor. Features to look for include portability, digital pressure measurement and automatic shutdown.

Portable 12-Volt Air Compressor

These compressors are powered via your car’s 12V power outlet (cigarette lighter), and generally cost between $25 and $60. They stow compactly in a vehicle and are easy to use: simply plug them in and attach them to your tire. “These provide excellent value because they pay for themselves during the first year, especially for those who own two vehicles or are heavy drivers,” says Alan Gelfand, owner of German Car Depot.

Pros recommendations: UUP Tire Inflator and EPAuto Portable Air Compressor. Pro-tip: Buy a model with ample cord length. “A common problem is the cord barely reaching the tires, or sometimes not at all,” says auto-industry expert Melanie Musson.

Rechargeable Cordless Inflators

Lithium-ion battery-powered tire inflators are extra convenient and compact, since there’s no cord to drag around. The downside is that they cost more, usually between $50 to $120, and the battery can wane over time if it’s never recharged. So if you’re not prone to maintaining that, “I recommend a plug-in one, since the battery one could be dead when you need it,” says Pyle.

Pro recommendations: Bosch EasyPump, Ampbank AT004 and Milwaukee M12 Inflator. For a combo battery plus 12V charger, try this Greenworks model.

Wall-Powered Air Compressor

Wall-powered (120V) air compressors aren’t practical for keeping in your car, as they require a household power outlet to operate. But, they are great for keeping in your workshop, where they can perform double duty, running power tools and pressure cleaning everything from car vents to floor rugs. They’ll also fill up your car tires faster than portable models. Costs range from $140 to $400, plus you’ll need a tire chuck and pressure gauge to fill your tires using one.

Pro recommendation: EcoMax.

Bicycle or Manual Foot Pump

You might already have a bike pump in the garage, and yes, in a pinch, you can use it to fill your car tires. Expect to spend $30 to $70. “A bike pump can work if your tire pressure is only slightly low, but may be a real pain if you’re trying to refill a significant amount of air pressure,” says Watson. “On the positive side, you could skip the gym after this method.”

Is It Worth It?

It depends on your budget and how hands-on you are with car maintenance, but in general, keeping a portable air compressor in your car is more about safety than saving money. Otherwise, “For most drivers, it’s perfectly reasonable to spend a few dollars at a gas station when needed,” says Watson.

But a compressor can save money in other ways, says Gelfand. “It promotes regular tire pressure checks, which enhance fuel efficiency, tire durability and safety,” he says. “Your fuel efficiency and tire condition can suffer when your tires operate at even five PSI below the recommended level.”

About the Experts

• Duane “Doc” Watson is a technical trainer at Bosch Mobility Aftermarket. He has over 45 years of experience in automotive repair, having trained thousands of technicians and earned numerous industry awards, including Chevrolet Technician of the Year and Buick Service Master of the Year.
• Alan Gelfand has been the owner of German Car Depot for more than 30 years. His business is an independent automotive service center in Hollywood, Florida, specializing in the service and repair of German vehicles.
• Chris Pyle is a master-certified technician with 20-plus years of automotive experience. He has also worked as an expert for JustAnswer.com since 2006.
• Melanie Musson is an auto industry expert with AutoInsurance.org.

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11 Best Ways to Protect Your Pantries From Pests

If you don’t prevent pests in the pantry, they’ll eat whatever food they can access, and they often spoil it in the process. We’re not talking about two-legged pests that you can keep out with threats of punishment, but much smaller ones that fly or walk on four, six, eight or more legs — specifically bugs and rodents.

These marauders sometimes seem to have magical powers to get at your provisions, but it’s more opportunism than it is magic. They’ll exploit any small passageway they can find to get to your food, and sometimes they’re already in the food before you store it. If keeping them out feels like a battle you’re losing, these tips from pest control experts, cleaners and a home inspector will help you prevent pests in the pantry and put you back on the winning side.

Store Food in Airtight Containers

If you want to keep pests away from your food, it’s a no-brainer to store it in a sealed container, but cleaning expert Isabella Flores reminds you that the type of container matters. “Insects such as weevils and moths will easily destroy cardboard and paper packaging to get to the inside of your dry goods, such as flour and rice.”

She recommends glass, metal, or heavy plastic containers, but home inspector Ahmed Harhara advises sticking with glass or metal. At our house, we’ve had mice chew through plastic containers, so I agree with Harhara.

Keep the Pantry Clean

“Wipe down your shelves, sweep and vacuum around corners and immediately wipe up spills or open packaging. Crumbs and spills attract pests,” advises Flores. She recommends cleaning every area and shelf of your pantry thoroughly once a month. Move all of the items off the shelves for cleaning or vacuuming. Also, avoid storing trash in the pantry. “It’s a magnet for rodents and bugs.”

Seal Off the Entire Pantry

Your pantry may look like a sealed space to you, but it looks very different to tiny critters that can crawl through gaps too small for you to see. “There’s no point trying to hunt for every tiny gap,” says pest expert Nicole Carpenter. “Instead, just seal the entire perimeter where walls meet the floor. Vacuum everything first, then run a thin bead of caulk along the seams where the wall meets the floor and in every corner joint.”

Don’t forget the door. If you can see light when it’s closed, pests can definitely pass through. Solve this problem with weatherstripping and a door sweep at the bottom.

Freeze Grains and Flour Before Storing Them

This recommendation is from Joseph Passalacqua, who owns a cleaning service in NYC: “I recommend putting items you don’t use often, like specialty flours or seeds, in the freezer for about three days before placing them in the pantry. This helps get rid of any hidden bugs or eggs that might still be in the packaging and keeps the food safe from future infestations.”

Check Storage Boxes for Sneaky Pests

“It’s not uncommon to find pests hiding in boxes that contain goods and bulk items,” warns entomologist Daniel Baldwin. If you move boxes from other parts of your home into the pantry, be sure to check them for pests such as rodents, cockroaches, or silverfish. Be wary also of boxes you bring home from the grocery store. Unpacking them, checking them thoroughly and repacking them will help prevent pests in your pantry.

Avoid Shelf Liners if Possible

“Small crumbs, dead insects, and other debris can collect under shelf liners, creating a tasty buffet for pests,” says Baldwin. That’s a good reason to avoid them, but you may prefer to use them anyway, because they help prevent items from slipping off the shelves. If so, go for smooth ones instead of textured ones. “Textured liners might seem fine at first, but they trap crumbs and give pests quiet spots to hide or lay eggs,” says Passalacqua. “Smooth liners wipe clean in seconds, making it easier to spot dirt and help your pantry stay fresh and organized longer.”

Get Rid of Contaminated Food

If you find a pantry infestation, such as from pantry moths, it’s important to discard all contaminated food. “Be sure to closely inspect all food not in sealed cans or jars, including pet food, unopened products, spices and seasoning packs,” advises pest control expert Scot Hodges. “Larvae can chew through boxes, plastic bags, foil packaging, seed hulls, nutshells and more. Once all contaminated food has been removed, clean the infested area thoroughly with a vacuum and soap and water.”

Keep the Pantry Dry

Besides food, bugs and rodents also need water, and if they find it your pantry, that may be enough to keep them coming back. “Most people focus on cleaning, but the real trigger is moisture — it softens packaging and accelerates food spoilage, which attracts insects fast,” says Harhara. If you have a moisture problem, he recommends improving ventilation, if possible, or deploying a dehumidifier or moisture absorber.

Try Natural Deterrents

A number of natural deterrents can help prevent pests in the pantry. Several experts recommended peppermint oil. It’s non-toxic and creates an environment that pests, especially rodents, don’t like. Baldwin recommends mixing a few drops with water in a spray bottle and spraying the solution wherever you see pest activity. You can also soak cotton balls with the mixture and spread them around.

Lavender also works, according to Flores, who also says that a good way to keep pantry bugs away is to put a few bay leaves in containers of rice, flour or grains. If you have an especially vexing problem with mice, try spraying a 50-50 solution of vinegar and water along the baseboards. This is a little intense, but according to Baldwin, “a vinegar-treated pantry can feel confusing and inhospitable to them,” and that’s often enough to keep them away.

Deploy Live Traps for Rodents

Mice always seem to be one step ahead of your best efforts and may still find a way to get into your pantry. The way we deal with them at my house is to deploy live traps baited with peanut butter along the baseboards. When we catch one (and we’ve caught a lot), we release it in the state park several miles away. Be sure to wear gloves when handling the trap, warns Baldwin, “to minimize scent transfer and, more importantly, to protect yourself from germs or bites, as mice can pose health risks.”

Use Bug Traps for Flying Insects

Live traps won’t catch fruit flies, gnats, moths or mosquitoes, but sticky traps and light traps will. A sticky trap is simply a piece of sticky paper that captures small insects that land on it when you place it on a surface or hang it from a wall. A light trap does much the same thing, but it actually attracts bugs with a soft UV light when you plug it into a wall outlet. Neither type uses insecticides, and both are safe to use around food.

About the Experts

• Isabella Flores is a professional organizer and Cleaning Expert at Sparkly Maid San Diego.
• Ahmed Harhara, PhD. is an engineer and the Founder of Houston Home Tools — a data platform that helps residents understand neighborhood-level environmental and housing risks.
• Nicole Carpenter the President of Black Pest Prevention, a company that helps with pest control in Charlotte and serves both North and South Carolina.
• Joseph Passalacqua is the CEO of Maid Sailors Cleaning Service, which operates in New York City.
• Daniel Baldwin is an entomologist with over two decades of experience. He’s the current Vice President of Technical & Training Services at Hawx Pest Control.
• Scot Hodges is the Vice President of Professional Development and Technical Services at Arrow Exterminators, which operates throughout the Southern U.S.

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Fact or Fiction: Is It Really Dangerous to Do Laundry in a Thunderstorm?

It’s all too easy to fall behind on household chores. You do your best to catch up, but sometimes it feels like life itself is conspiring against you to keep you perpetually off track. For example, it may be tempting to try to race a storm and finish your to-do list for the day. This is doubly true if you’re behind on your laundry routine. But if you grew up somewhere where lightning storms were common, you may have been taught to avoid things like showering and using appliances during a thunderstorm because you could burn your home down. We looked to the National Weather Service (NWS) and the Center for Disease Control (CDC) to find out if it’s actually safe to run your laundry during a thunderstorm.

Can I Run Laundry During a Thunderstorm?

The short answer is no, you should refrain from running your laundry during a thunderstorm. According to the NWS, “any device that uses electricity (e.g. computers, televisions, household appliances, etc.) is susceptible to a lightning strike.” As such, you shouldn’t “use anything connected to an electrical outlet, such as computers, laptops, game systems, washers, dryers, or stoves.”

Why Is It Dangerous to Do Laundry During a Thunderstorm?

Per to the CDC, “lightning can travel through electrical systems, radio and television reception systems, and any metal wires or bars in concrete walls or flooring.” If your laundry machines connect to an electrical outlet, they pose a risk. They’re primed to conduct electricity if they’re running when your home gets struck by lightning.

Gas-powered appliances aren’t safe either. Even if your laundry machines aren’t hooked into your electrical system, your washer still uses water to clean your clothes. The CDC does say that “the risk of lightning travelling [sic] through plumbing might be less with plastic pipes than with metal pipes.” However, it’s still a possibility. Therefore, “it is best to avoid any contact with plumbing and running water during a lightning storm to reduce your risk of being struck.” The NWS agrees, adding that “metal plumbing and the water inside are both very good conductors of electricity.”

How Can I Protect Myself and My Home?

Unfortunately, you cannot eliminate all risk. However, there are several things you can do to lessen your chances of getting struck by lightning. First and foremost, you’ll need to get inside. The NWS explains that “being inside a house or other building with electrical wiring and plumbing is your safest option during a thunderstorm.” However, your emergency preparedness shouldn’t stop there. Being inside “does not guarantee you will be 100% safe from lightning. There are still some lightning safety guidelines you must follow while inside a place of shelter to keep yourself safe.”

Electricity

The CDC suggests that you “equip your home with whole-house surge protectors to protect your appliances.” The NWS adds that you should also “consider unplugging certain appliances or electronics, but for your own safety, do this before the storm arrives.”

Plumbing

When it comes to plumbing, the CDC says that you should not “bathe, shower, wash dishes, or have any other contact with water during a thunderstorm because lightning can travel through a building’s plumbing.” The NWS agrees, also specifying that washing your hands and running laundry are dangerous. Wait until the storm has fully passed before you use your laundry machines.

Sources

• Lightning Safety Awareness Week, National Weather Service
• Safety Guidelines: Lightning, Center for Disease Control

Related

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side 
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• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling 

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If You Drive a Hyundai or a Kia, Your Gas Tank May Be in Danger of Melting

While it’s rare for two different makes of vehicles to get recalled for the same issue, it can absolutely happen. Recently, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) released two briefs about Kia and Hyundai vehicles that are dangerous. If you own one of the vehicles in question, you may now have to worry about your fuel tank melting.

Why Are Kia and Hyundai Recalling So Many Vehicles?

According to the NHTSA brief, both makes of car have the same issue: a damaged check valve. When this happens, it “can allow air to enter the fuel tank, causing it to expand and contact hot exhaust components, melting the tank.” If that sounds bad to you, you’re correct. The NHTSA warns that “a melted fuel tank can leak, increasing the risk of a fire.”

Which Vehicles Run the Risk of Their Fuel Tank Melting?

Over 250,000 Kia vehicles have this issue, including the:

• 2021 K5
• 2022 K5
• 2023 K5
• 2024 K5

When it comes to Hyundai, over 85,000 of their vehicles are impacted including the:

• 2020 Sonata
• 2021 Sonata
• 2022 Sonata
• 2023 Sonata

In both cases, owner letters are set to be mailed out in mid-January 2026 so you’ll get confirmation then about whether or not your vehicle is at risk of its fuel tank melting.

How Will Kia and Hyudai Fix this Fire Hazard?

The remedy is similar, regardless of which make you own.

Kia

If you own a Kia, “dealers will replace the check valve. The fuel tank will be inspected for damage and replaced as necessary.” Kia also states that all repairs will be performed free of charge.

If you have any further questions, contact Kia customer service at 800-333-4542. Kia’s number for this recall is SC356 and the NHTSA number for this recall is 25V794000. Beginning December 1, 2025, you can also look up your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on the NHTSA website to see if your vehicle is included in the recall.

Hyundai

If you own a Hyundai, “dealers will inspect and replace the check valve. The fuel tank assembly will be inspected for damage and replaced if necessary.” The brief concludes by saying that “dealers will inspect and update the engine control unit software.” Hyundai reassures its customers that “all repairs will be performed as necessary, free of charge.”

If you have any further questions, contact Hyundai customer service at 1-855-371-9460. Hyundai’s number for this recall is 286, and the NHTSA number for this recall is 25V796000. As of November 19, 2025, you can check your vehicle’s VIN on the NHTSA website to see if it is included in this recall.

Sources

Fuel Tank May Leak (Kia), National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2025.

Fuel Tank May Leak (Hyundai), National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2025.

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