Ford Recalls 35,000 Cars Due To Led Light Fire Hazard – Is Yours on the List?

There are certain parts of cars we just expect to function as expected with very little intervention from you as the driver—LED lights throughout the car being one of them. Even if one of your lights does fry out, you’d expect it to simply stop working, not, let’s say, set on fire. Unfortunately, that’s what some drivers of Ford vehicles could experience.

Ford announced in February that it is recalling tens of thousands of vehicles because of faulty LED lighting wiring that could increase the risk of a fire. Read on to learn all about the recall, including what cars are impacted and what to do if you own one.

What Ford Cars Are Being Recalled?

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration report, this recall includes 2015-2017 Lincoln Navigators. The total number of cars impacted is 35,328. Owners can expect letters from Ford informing them of the recall by the end of March.

Why Are These Cars Being Recalled?

These Lincoln Navigators are being recalled because they could have faulty exterior mirror assemblies. The report states, “The light-emitting diode (LED) logo lamps within the driver and passenger side exterior mirror assemblies may short circuit without tripping the short detection threshold.”

The report details that the potting material on the LED logo lamps did not properly adhere to the wire, creating gaps where water or conductive fluid could penetrate the LED lamp printed circuit board, causing corrosion. Over time, this could lead to a short and increased fire risk.

What To Do If My Ford Is Recalled

Ford or Lincoln dealers will disconnect the wire to the LED logo lamp free of charge. Additionally, owners who paid to repair their lights before the recall was announced may be eligible for reimbursement.

To get more information or set up an appointment for your car to be serviced, you can contact Ford customer service at 866-436-7332. Ford’s number for this recall is 25S08.

Source

NHTSA.gov: “Exterior Mirror LED Lights May Cause Fire” (2025)

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60,500 Volkswagen and Audi Cars Recalled Over Gear Display Glitch

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) announced that nearly 60,500 Volkswagen vehicles have a gear issue and are included in an important recall.

If you own an Audi or Volkswagen, we’ve broken down the news for you so that you can easily read why the recall is happening, which specific vehicles are affected, and what to do if you own one.

Why Is Volkswagen Recalling These Vehicles?

According to the NHTSA, the Volkswagen vehicles included in this recall have a gear issue. The instrument panel isn’t displaying the transmission gear lever indicator correctly. This means you might be unable to tell if your vehicle is parked. Because of this, “these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 102, ‘Transmission Shift Lever Sequence, Starter Interlock, and Transmission Braking Effect.'”

If you haven’t properly shifted into park when you pull into a parking space, you run the risk of having it roll. Applying your parking brake is a good habit, but relying only on one brake to keep your car from rolling away and causing an accident is unwise.

Which Volkswagen Vehicles Are Recalled?

Nearly 60,500 Volkswagen vehicles have this gear problem and are subject to the recall. Impacted vehicles include the:

• 2021 Volkswagen ID.4
• 2022Volkswagen ID.4
• 2023 Volkswagen ID.4
• 2022 Audi Q4 e-Tron
• 2023 Audi Q4 e-Tron
• 2022 Audi Q4 e-Tron Sportback
• 2024 Audi Q4 e-Tron Sportback

Volkswagen will mail out owner letters in late April 2025, so if you own one of the aforementioned vehicles, keep an eye out for that piece of mail.

What’s the Proposed Fix?

Volkswagen says that “dealers will update the brake control unit software, free of charge.” Do not put this repair off any longer than necessary. It’s good practice to put your parking brake on any time you turn your car off, but it’s best not to leave that as your only fail-safe.

If you want more information or don’t want to wait for your letter, you can call the manufacturers directly. Volkswagen can be reached at 1-800-893-5298; their number for this recall is 97H3. Audi’s number is 1-800-253-2834, and you’ll want to ask about recall number 454R. You can also call the NHTSA at 888-327-4236 to ask. If you contact them, you’ll need to reference recall number 25V120000.

Source

Gear Position Indicator Not Displayed/FMVSS 102, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2025.

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Save Water, Save Money: The Case for a Household Water Bucket

Ever feel guilty watching water go down the drain? A leftover water bucket might be the simple, sustainable solution you didn’t know you needed. It’s exactly what it sounds like—a bucket you keep around to collect and reuse water that would otherwise be wasted.

It’s one of those small, everyday habits that can add up to real water conservation. Whether you’re looking to be more eco-friendly, cut down on your water bill, or simply make better use of what you already have, a leftover water bucket is an easy step in the right direction.

Where Can You Collect Leftover Water?

You might be surprised at just how much water goes unused in your home. Instead of letting it flow away, here are some places where you can collect it:

• Waiting for the Shower to Heat Up: How often do you turn on the shower and wait for it to warm up? Instead of letting that cold water go to waste, keep a bucket handy and collect it. You can later use it for watering plants, flushing the toilet, or even cleaning.
• Rinsing Fruits and Vegetables: When you rinse produce, that water doesn’t need to go straight down the drain. Place a bowl in the sink to catch the runoff, then transfer it to your leftover water bucket. This slightly used water is still great for watering non-edible plants.
• Cooking Water: When you boil pasta, potatoes, or vegetables, let the water cool and reuse it. It’s packed with nutrients, making it an excellent option for watering plants (just avoid salt-heavy water).
• Condensation from Air Conditioners and Dehumidifiers: If you use an AC or dehumidifier, you’ve got an effortless way to collect water. These appliances pull moisture from the air, and that collected water can be repurposed for cleaning, watering plants, or even filling your mop bucket.
• Leftover Water in Drinking Glasses and Bottles: We’ve all been guilty of leaving half-full glasses of water around the house. Instead of dumping them down the sink, empty them into your water bucket. The same goes for unfinished water bottles.
• Pet Water Bowls: If you refresh your pet’s water daily, pour the old water into your bucket instead of down the drain. As long as it’s free from food debris, it’s perfectly fine for other uses. (Obviously, don’t use this water to clean your dishes or floors.)
• Washing Hands and Dishes: If you hand-wash dishes or even just rinse your hands, you can collect the water in a small tub. Just be mindful of using soap-heavy water—plants might not love it as much.

How Can You Use Leftover Water?

Once you’ve got your bucket filled, here are some practical ways to use that water:

• Watering Plants: This is the most common use. Just be sure the water doesn’t contain soap, oil, or excess salt.
• Flushing the Toilet: Pour collected water directly into the bowl to trigger a flush without using fresh water.
• Cleaning Floors or Outdoor Surfaces: Instead of tap water, use your leftover water to mop or wash outdoor furniture.
• Soaking Dirty Dishes or Laundry: Pre-soak items in collected water before scrubbing them clean. This would be a good time to use that water you collected while waiting for your shower to warm up.
• Refilling Outdoor Water Features: Birdbaths, ponds, or fountains can be topped off with leftover water.

Making It a Habit

Adding a leftover water bucket to your routine is easier than you think. Keep a designated bucket or container near common collection spots (like the kitchen or bathroom) to make it second nature. Even if you only collect a few gallons a week, that’s still water saved—and every drop counts.

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Here’s Why Ford Had to Recall Hundreds of Mustangs (Again)

You’ve heard of automotive recalls, but have you ever heard of a re-recall? If you’re a Ford owner, your vehicle may currently be included in a re-recall. Automotive companies issue these when the problem in the previous recall hasn’t been adequately addressed. They don’t always include every single vehicle from the original; sometimes, only a handful have a persisting issue. But regardless, it’s good to keep up to date with the news just to be sure that you don’t miss any updates.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) originally recalled over 30,000 Ford Mustangs in 2024 due to a steering issue. It’s now come to light that the original fix did not sufficiently address the problem in all of the vehicles, and so the company is re-recalling some of those vehicles.

Why Is There a Re-Recall of Ford Vehicles?

According to the NHTSA brief, “the secondary steering torque sensor may not be calibrated properly.” Incorrectly calibrated torque sensors “can cause the steering wheel to turn side to side against the driver’s intentions.” Losing control of your steering wheel is a nightmare. The NHTSA warns that “a steering wheel that turns unintentionally can cause a loss of vehicle control and increase the risk of a crash.”

If your Ford vehicle was recalled in 2024 for a steering wheel issue, it may be part of this re-recall. Ford has said that they’ll be mailing out owner letters in late March 2025, so keep an eye on your mailbox.

Which Ford Vehicles Are Included in This Re-Recall?

The good news about a re-recall is that if your vehicle wasn’t included in the first recall, it’s almost certainly not included in the following one. In this case, the Ford re-recall is targeting 2022-2023 Ford Mustang vehicles that were originally included in Ford recall number 24V-493. The NHTSA number for that recall was 24V493000. Of the original 30,000 recalled vehicles, 332 are included in this re-recall.

How Will Ford Repair These Vehicles?

Ford has said that affected owners can take their vehicles to dealers for a power steering control module (PSCM) software update at no cost. Make plans to take your vehicle in as soon as possible. A rogue steering wheel is incredibly dangerous to you and everyone around you on the road.

You can reach out to Ford Customer Service at 866-436-7332. Be sure to mention that you’re calling about recall number 25S11. You can also call the NHTSA at 888-327-4236. If you take this route, clarify that you want more information about recall number 25V096000.

Source

Steering Wheel May Turn Unintentionally, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2025.

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Why Your Car Battery Is Corroding (And How To Fix It)

If you’re like many people, you don’t lift the hood of your car unless you really have to. If the car is working well, that means it could be years before you get a look at what’s underneath. That includes the battery terminals, which can develop a coating of bluish-white corrosion during that time.

A corroded battery will still start your car—at least until the corrosion gets bad enough to interfere with the electrical connection. If that happens, you might get stuck on a country road in the middle of winter, and if you’re not the type who carries tools in the car, you could find yourself waiting in the cold for roadside assistance without the ability to start your car to stay warm.

Why do batteries corrode, what does corrosion mean about the state of your vehicle, and how can you prevent it? With the help of automotive repair experts, this post answers these questions.

What Causes Battery Corrosion?

Standard automobile batteries (not the sealed, maintenance-free types) contain a sulfuric acid solution that acts as an electrolyte, and it’s predominantly responsible for any corrosion on the terminals. This acid naturally releases hydrogen gas, which escapes through vent openings to prevent a dangerous hydrogen buildup inside the battery. When this corrosive gas contacts the metal terminals, a chemical reaction takes place that produces the corrosion you see. Moisture and salt in the air speed up the reaction.

This process is unavoidable, which is actually good news in a way. It means that you don’t need to be alarmed if you see corrosion on your battery terminals. However, if you don’t want to get stuck out in the cold, you should remove it and take steps to prevent more from forming.

Causes of Excessive Corrosion

In normal conditions, it takes about three years for battery terminals to develop enough corrosion to need cleaning. If your terminals become noticeably corroded before that time, or if the corrosion is unusually heavy, here are some possible reasons:

Leaking battery

The battery casing could be cracked, allowing the acidic electrolyte to seep out. If the crack is near the terminals, corrosion will build up quickly.

Overheating

Corrosion occurs more quickly at higher temperatures, which means it can build up faster in the summer than in the winter. Excessive corrosion can also be a sign that the car’s cooling system isn’t working properly and the engine is overheating.

Overcharging and Undercharging

When the battery gets overcharged, the electrolyte releases hydrogen gas at a faster rate, producing excessive corrosion on both terminals. This is a sign that the car’s voltage regulator isn’t working properly.

If the battery is undercharged, you’ll probably notice more corrosion on the negative terminal than on the positive one. This happens because the car’s electrical system is drawing too much power.

Old battery

The expected life of a car battery is five to seven years. If you see excessive corrosion (and you can rule out other causes), it’s probable that the battery has reached the end of its service life and can no longer hold a charge. Mechanic Bryan Jewett explains how to test it:

1. Use a multimeter set to DC voltage.
2. Turn off the car.
3. Connect the positive lead to the battery’s positive terminal and the negative lead to the negative terminal.
4. Check the voltage. A healthy, fully charged battery should read between 12.6–12.8 volts. If below 12.4, it likely needs charging, and under 12 volts may indicate it’s not holding a charge well and needs to be replaced.

How to Clean Battery Terminals

Here’s a rundown of the procedure for cleaning corrosion off of battery terminals supplied by Garrett Torelli of Batteries Plus:

1. Put on gloves and eye protection for safety, and open the hood.
2. Use a memory saver: Before disconnecting, plug in a memory saver to avoid losing radio presets, clock settings, and other functions.
3. Disconnect the battery: Starting with the negative terminal, then the positive.
   • Pro tip: Use pliers to hold the bolt steady while unscrewing.
4. Inspect the battery cables: Check for wear or corrosion and replace any damaged cables immediately.
5. Remove and clean the battery: Use a wire brush and neutralizing solution (baking soda and water or terminal cleaner spray) to remove corrosion. Pro tip: Clean the terminal clamps, too.
6. Reinstall the battery: Place it back, secure it, and reconnect in reverse order (positive first).
   • Pro tip: Ensure the clamps are tight to prevent future issues.

How to Prevent Corrosion

This is easy to do: Just coat the terminals with petroleum jelly or a battery terminal protector, a dielectric compound that prevents the corrosion reaction from occurring. It doesn’t hurt to reapply this protection as often as you like, but at least do it when you notice corrosion beginning to form.

FAQ

How often should I check my battery terminals for corrosion?

If your battery is fairly new and you aren’t experiencing problems, you should check for corrosion about once a year. As the battery ages, check more often, especially if the engine has trouble turning over or the headlights dim when you start the car.

Should I consult a professional if I find corrosion?

You can generally handle battery corrosion yourself, but you should bring the car in for service if you notice any of the following:

• Excessive corrosion;
• Significantly more corrosion on the negative terminal than on the positive one;
• A battery leak;
• Overheating engine.

About the Experts

• Bryan Jewett has been in the automotive business for 20 years. He is the owner of Casey’s Automotive, which is based in Virginia.
• Garrett Torelli is the Senior Merchandise Manager at Batteries Plus.

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CVT Transmission 101: How It Differs from Automatic Transmission

Continuously variable transmissions have been used for years in motorcycles and snowmobiles. As cars and engines became smaller, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) lowered vehicle emission thresholds, and the price of fuel skyrocketed, the lighter-weight, fuel-efficient CVT transmissions (CVT), which also helped lower tailpipe emissions, became popular with manufacturers during the 1980s.

Like its cousin, the automatic transmission (AT), CVT transmissions are fully automatic and share many of the same characteristics. However, CVTs use fewer moving parts, shift gears (and gear ratios) are completely different from an AT, and they have a unique responsiveness on acceleration and a distinctive feel while driving. As an ASE and General Motors Master Technician and AT expert for over 50 years, I’ve seen how CVT evolved and has become more durable and longer lasting. Ahead, Subaru and ASE Master Technicians and the owner of a CVT vehicle provide professional and firsthand expertise explaining how CVT transmissions work.

What Is CVT Transmission?

“Simply put,” says Eric Maldonado, a technician at Subaru of Cherry Hill, “an automatic CVT transmission uses a fixed length steel chair or ‘belt’ positioned between a pair of two movable, or adjustable, conical shaped pulleys to transmit engine power [from the drive pulley] to the driveshaft [through the driven pulley] and ultimately to the wheels.”

The belt sits higher or lower on the pulley surfaces of a CVT transmission, and as the pulleys move closer together or farther apart, in principle, they become variable diameter gears, providing an infinite number of gear ratios. “As the pulleys move, the belt seamlessly transfers power from one pulley to the other, enabling smooth acceleration,” adds Frank Romano, a technician at Subaru of Cherry Hill.

How Are CVT Transmissions Different?

CVT transmissions are simpler in design and function and have fewer moving parts than a traditional AT. Depending on the number of “speeds” an AT has, there can be up to four complex planetary gearsets and up to six friction clutch packs that provide up to 10 fixed ratio forward gears, plus reverse gear.

In an AT, pressurized automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is routed to clutch packs that lock and unlock the planetary gearsets. Transmission gear and gear ratios are fixed and determined by which parts of the gearsets are freewheeling or being held stationary by the clutch packs. Pressurized ATF acts on the movable half of the pulley, changing its diameter. “Consequently,” said Maldonado, “a CVT transmission continually changes gear ratios as the two movable pulley halves slide on a shaft, while the other half of the pulley remains locked in place.”

In other words, from a stop, the two halves of the drive pulley are close together, increasing the diameter of the drive “gear” while the two halves of driven pulley are further apart and thus a smaller diameter. This positioning proves the torque and power of “low gear” needed to accelerate from a standstill. The opposite takes place on acceleration until you reach “high gear,” and the space between the driven pulleys narrows as the space between the driven pulley widens.

Remember, since the length of the belt is fixed, “both movable pulleys must remain synchronized to maintain constant tension [on the belt],” said ASE technician Tom Diamond. “This [design] maintains belt tension to prevent the belt from slipping,” said Romano. The gear ratio is determined as the radius between the driven and drive pulleys changes. Since CVTs do not have fixed gear changes based on vehicle speed, engine speed and load, throttle position or other inputs, acceleration is smooth and continuous.

“You will quickly notice there’s no shift “bump” when the AT changes gears,” added Diamond. Greg Efie, Service Manager at Subaru of Cherry Hill explained, “many drivers actually complained about not feeling the transmission shift. This led to Subaru programming ‘fake shift points’ into the computer to add the sensation of gears changing.”

IMAGE: CVT-Illustration

How Are CVT Transmissions The Same As Traditional Automatic Transmissions?

“Both transmissions strive to deliver smooth and comfortable driving experiences, provide better fuel economy and lower emissions,” said Maldonado.

In addition to automatic shifting and being computer-controlled, traditional AT and CVT transmissions both use torque converters (a fluid coupling—a hydraulic counterpart to a manual transmission’s clutch) to transfer an engine’s rotational power to the transmission.

CVT also uses a single clutch pack and planetary gear set for reverse only. Although they both use transmission fluid, CTV fluid contains different and unique properties than standard ATF. Distinctive properties prevent the transmission from overheating by quickly dissipating heat produced by constant belt and pulley movement while improving and maintaining correct belt friction that reduces belt slippage, ensuring smooth operation and longer CVT life.

Does My Car Have CVT Transmission?

Most hybrids and plug-in hybrid (PHEV) vehicles come standard with CTV, but some cars may have a badge on the transmission dipstick (not all CVTs have dipsticks) or “have markings on the transmission itself,” said Romano.

The easiest way to check is to read the owner’s manual. Many newer models from Toyota, Nissan, Subaru, Hyundai, Honda and General Motors come equipped with CVT as standard equipment.

Benefits and Drawbacks of CVT Transmissions

Benefits:

• Provides maximum power for smaller four-cylinder cars.
• Increases fuel economy while lowering emissions.
• Offers smooth, continuous acceleration.
• Learns and adjusts to your driving habits.

Drawbacks:

• Lacks shift point “feel.”
• Fluid expensive.
• Noisier than traditional AT.
• Lower life expectancy and more mechanical issues and failures than traditional AT.
• Belt slippage and wear increase as high voltage hybrid and PHEV batteries weaken.

FAQ

How long do CVT transmissions last?

How long a CVT transmission lasts depends on various factors. Although the belts are designed to last the life of the transmission, Maldonado explained, “a traditional AT should last 200,000 miles, but many times CVT often fail and need replacing at 100,000 miles.”

Of course, Romano added, this all “depends on your personal driving habits, the climate where you live, and where you will be doing the majority of your driving.”

Performing regular maintenance and making repairs when needed will also extend the life of any car part. Diamond explained “the car will jerk or [the transmission] will slip on acceleration when a belt overheats.” Eife said he has 95,000 miles on his Subaru Outback and “has never experienced any transmission problems.” He also mentioned “Subaru extended the powertrain warranty of their cars to 100,000 miles” to show their earlier CVT transmission issues have been remedied and are now more dependable.

Do CVT transmissions need more maintenance?

According to Maldonado, whether a CVT transmission needs more maintenance depends on the manufacturer. Some CVTs come sealed and, under normal driving conditions, do not require any maintenance. He added, “If you live in climates where extreme hot or cold temperatures are normal, or drive in dusty dirty conditions, then changing CVT fluid should be done every 50,000.”

Other manufacturers recommend ATF exchanges every 60,000 miles. Other manufacturers recommend to periodically inspect the belt (if possible). As always, refer to your owner’s manual for specific maintenance schedules and recommendations. Maldonado said most CVT “come with a drain plug, and you can change [or flush] CVT fluid yourself. Just be sure to use the specified CVT fluid for your make, model and year,” he cautioned.

The Experts

• Eric Maldonado has been a Senior Subaru Master Technician and transmission expert for the past eight years at Subaru of Cherry Hill, located in Cherry Hill, NJ.
• Frank Roman has been a Senior Subaru Master Technician for 28 years at Subaru of Cherry Hill.
• Greg Eife, was my former apprentice, is an Oldsmobile Master Technician and now servers as Service and Parts Director of Subaru of Cherry Hill.
• Tom Diamond has over 30 years of experience in the automotive repair industry as a technician, certified original equipment manufacturer (Mazda) trainer and shop supervisor. He has been an ASE Master Technician for over 25 years, including ASE L1 advanced automotive engine performance certification and is a PA Department of Transportation certified state safety, emissions and reconstructed vehicle inspector as well as a certified welder. (Interview Feb 18, 2025)

Resources

• Dave Bodzioch has more than 20 years of experience as an ASE Master Technician is a Pennsylvania Department of Education certified Automotive Technology and Outdoor Power Equipment instructor at North Montco Technical Career Center in Lansdale, PA.
• Future Tech, Webinar: “Electrified Vehicle Inspections: What Sets Them Apart from Conventional Cars?”
• Armor Lubricants: “Transmission Fluid for CVT Transmission vs ATF! What is the difference?“

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18 Smart Ways to Give Plastic Jugs and Bottles a Second Life

Tangle-Free Twine Storage

Can’t find your twine to bundle that pile of recyclables? Try reader Norm Hoch’s slick solution to reuse your plastic bottles. Cut the bottom 4 inches off a 1/2-gallon plastic milk or orange juice jug and load the container with a fresh spool of twine that unwinds from the middle. Then, thread the twine through the jug opening and tape the jug back together. Cut an “X” in the cap with a utility knife to keep the twine from falling back into the jug.

Make a Paint Tray with a Handle

“For small paint jobs, I find that a 4-in. paint roller works great with an old gallon-size iced tea jug serving as a disposable roller tray. I just cut out part of the plastic to create a place to dip the roller. It even has a built-in carrying handle. When I’m done, I just throw the empty gallon jug away.” — reader Fred Thies

Simple Skinny Funnel

If you need an easy-to-make disposable funnel, we have the perfect solution for you. You can reuse the handles on old plastic jugs. Simply cut off the handle from a gallon water or milk jug and use it as a disposable funnel. The funnel will help you drain anything from your left-over wood glue to the old oil in your leaf blower. It’s also smart to use this disposable funnel for messy projects because you can just throw it away once you are done.

Soda-Bottle Bee Trap

“My husband stumbled on this cheap, effective bee and wasp trap. (Never thought I’d be glad he drinks soda all the time.) Cut the upper one-third off the top of a 2-liter plastic soda bottle with a utility knife. Pour a few ounces of soda pop into the bottom, then invert the top of the bottle and nest it inside the bottom part. Bees and wasps are attracted to the sweet smell and find their way through the bottleneck but can’t find their way out. Eventually they get exhausted, fall into the water and drown.” — reader J. Chamberlain

Touch-Up Bottle

“When there’s only a little bit of latex paint left in the can, and I want to save it for touch-ups, I put a half-dozen marbles in an empty water bottle and pour in the leftover paint. When I’m ready to do a touch-up, I shake the bottle,e and the marbles mix the paint. A roll of tape with a rag draped over it helps hold the bottle steady while I pour the paint into it. Just be sure to use a funnel, or you’ll have a mess on your hands.” — reader Ron Hazelton

Protect Sprouting Plants

If you cut an empty gallon jug about two-thirds down the bottom, you can create an effective enclosure to protect planted seeds and new shoots from birds and rodents. This is a great way to reuse your plastic bottles, plus it’s faster and more effective than trying to use sprays and traps. For busy gardens, get a marker and write the name of the plant on the jug so you know what’s growing beneath without needing to check your seed packets: Remember to eventually take the jugs off as shoots develop to avoid mold.

Pet Food Scoop

“I’ve read many hints that advise the reader to cut off the tops of gallon-size plastic jugs and use them for funnels. I’ve found that if you replace the cap after cutting the top off, you can use the top for a scoop for handling potting soil, fertilizer or pet food. The no-scratch plastic also makes the jug/scoop ideal for bailing water out of your boat.” — reader Ray Dean

For this scoop, we opted to reuse an empty plastic half-gallon milk jug and angled the cut so that the side opposite the handle is slightly longer, more like a scoop than a funnel. However, as Ray notes above, this scoop can also be used as a funnel by simply removing the milk jug cap. It helps to draw the cut line with a marker first and then clean up any sharp or rough edges with the scissors after the initial cut.

Dish Soap Glue Bottle

Reuse an empty plastic dish soap container as a refillable glue bottle. The small size and screw-on top with attached cap are perfect for squeezing out wood glue. Be sure to rinse the inside of the container thoroughly, including the lid, and let it dry completely before filling it with glue.

Milk Jug Furniture Movers

When you have to move heavy furniture on carpeting, don’t just drag it around. That’s hard on the carpet, and you might damage the furniture legs. Make the job easier with these homemade moving pads. Cut the bottoms off four plastic water or milk jugs with a utility knife and rest each furniture leg on its own slider. The rounded, slippery bottoms make them perfect for furniture moving.

Laundry Detergent Twine Dispenser

“Prevent balls of twine from tangling up by making a twine dispenser from an empty plastic detergent jug. Cut the bottom off the jug and drill a hole in the cap. Screw the jug to your shop wall with the spout facing down. Drop the ball of twine into the jug, thread it through the hole and screw the cap on.” — Paul Chupek

Furniture Stripping Helper

When stripping old paint or varnish, how do you get rid of the stuff once it’s on your putty knife? Cut a semi-circular opening in the side of an empty gallon jug, then clean the loaded scraper on the flat edge of the hole. When you’re done, and you want to reuse some of the stripper, upend the jug and use the neck of the jug as a funnel to pour the stripper into another container.

Plastic Bag Dispenser

To make it easy to stow and reuse plastic bags, make a dispenser from a discarded 2-liter soda bottle. Cut off the top and bottom with a razor knife. Trim any jagged edges so you don’t tear the bags when you pull them out, then screw the dispenser to a cabinet door or closet wall or attach it with hook-and-loop tape.

Water Bottle Nail Pouch

“Make a nail holder from a plastic beverage bottle. Cut the top off an empty bottle, leaving a 3-1/2 in. tall container. File off any sharp edges or cover them with tape. Cut two 1-1/2 in. vertical slits 1 in. apart in the center of the side. Slide the end of your belt through the slots for a homemade nail pouch.” — R. B. Hines.

Laundry Jug Watering Can

Instead of throwing away empty laundry detergent containers, rinse them out thoroughly and then recycle them for watering plants. Drill 1/8-in. holes in the top of the cap and a 1/2-in. hole just above the handle to relieve pressure so the water flows freely.

Out with the Mustard, In with the Glue

“I no longer put up with the messy “over-designed” carpenter’s glue dispensers. Instead, I use old mustard bottles; they don’t clog and they easily reseal between uses.” — reader Richard Painter

Better Bucket Storage

Stacked 5-gallon buckets fit together so tightly that it’s almost impossible to pull them apart. To prevent this, place a large plastic pop bottle (with the top on) or milk jug between each pair of buckets. You can still nest the buckets together, but they won’t stick together anymore.

Better Glue Bottle Cap

“Screw the flip-up, 1-in. inner diameter cap from your shampoo or liquid cleanser bottle onto your glue bottle. The 1-in. cap fits on every glue bottle we tried. Now:

• You can’t lose the little cap.
• The glue stays fresh because the cap snaps shut.
• The cap’s small round hole makes it easier to control the size of the glue bead.
• Glue doesn’t harden in the cap and require clearing before use.” — reader Dorothy Nanchu

Instant Tool Holder

Store chisels, files, large drill bits, screwdrivers and other long tools so they’re both visible and close at hand. Simply cut off the top from a clear 2-liter plastic soft drink bottle, leaving a flap for hanging. Use smaller bottles, which are extremely common household items for smaller tools.

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Tesla Issues Recall for 376,000 Vehicles Over Steering Issue

Tesla is recalling over 376,000 of its vehicles due to a power steering issue. Power steering makes your car easy to maneuver. You probably don’t think about it on a daily basis. However, you’d notice immediately if it ever stopped working because you’d feel a ton of resistance when you try to turn your wheel. It’s bad enough when this issue arises at home in your garage, but it’s worse when the power steering goes out in the middle of a drive. If you own a Tesla, take extra precautions until you know for sure that yours isn’t on the recall list.

Why Are Certain Teslas Being Recalled?

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration brief, certain Tesla vehicles have a power steering issue. In the impacted vehicles, “the printed circuit board for the electronic power steering assist may experience an overstress condition.” If this happens, it can cause “a loss of power steering assist when the vehicle reaches a stop and then accelerates again.”

If you own one of the affected Teslas, refrain from driving it as much as possible until the issue is resolved. The NHTSA warns that “a loss of power steering assist can require greater steering effort, especially at low speeds, increasing the risk of a crash.”

Which Tesla Vehicles Have a Power Steering Issue?

This recall affects over 376,000 Tesla vehicles. It impacts 2023 Model 3 and Model Y vehicles that used software before 2023.38.4. If you own a 2023 Model 3 or Model Y and are unsure what software your vehicle is using, keep an eye on your mailbox. Tesla will mail out owner letters with more information in late March 2025.

Is There a Proposed Fix?

Tesla says that an over-the-air (OTA) software update is available to remedy the power steering issue. This update is free to owners, so be sure to update your vehicle as soon as the OTA update becomes available.

If you have further questions, you can call Tesla customer service at 1-877-798-3752. Just be sure to clarify that you want to know more about recall SB-25-00-004. You can also call the NHTSA directly at 1-888-327-4236. If you opt for this route, specify that you’re asking about recall number 25V092000.

Source

• Loss of Power Steering Assist, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 2025.

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Is Paying More For Premium Power Tools Worth It? Experts Weigh In

As a jack-of-all trades, I have a favorite brand when I need to add a tool to my collection, and I’m happy to tell you what that is and why I like it. Before I do, let me be clear that it isn’t the one most contractors recommend, and I spoke to several as I researched this story. Unlike them, my top priority usually isn’t precision or longevity but budget, and my favorite brand is definitely budget-friendly. Nevertheless, I’ve never had a problem with performance.

Sure, there’s a difference between premium vs. budget power tools, but whether it’s a difference that makes a difference depends on your needs. When you have to choose, tiny-home builder Jonathan Palley has this advice:

“Budget power tools are a good choice if you aren’t quite sure what you’re buying yet or only need a tool for one specific project. They’ll usually get the job done, especially when they’re brand new. If you use a budget tool until it breaks, it may be time to invest in a premium model. At that point, you’ll know what features are important to you.”

What Are the Differences Between Premium and Budget Power Tools?

“The difference mostly comes down to durability, performance, and long-term value,” says boiler repair pro and composite door manufacturer Myles Robinson. When choosing premium vs. budget power tools, here’s why master plumber Cameron Anderson suggests you might want to pony up the extra dollars:

Durability

No matter how much a tool costs, its housing is usually plastic. It’s what’s inside that matters. Premium tools use higher-grade materials like brushless motors, metal gearing, and high-capacity lithium-ion batteries. Budget tools, on the other hand, often feature all-plastic innards.

Performance

Premium tools work more efficiently, and that makes your life easier when doing tough jobs, says Anderson. “A cheap impact driver might struggle with lag bolts in pressure-treated lumber, but a pro-grade one will drive them effortlessly.”

Longevity and consistency

Because they are made from more durable materials, premium tools keep working longer. Budget tools tend to wear down quickly, meaning they might struggle when pushed too hard, but a premium tool delivers the same power during the first use as it does on the hundredth.

Usability

Premium tools have better ergonomics, meaning they’re designed for comfort during long hours of use.

Warranty

Manufacturers typically offer three- to five-year warranty periods for premium tools but only one year (if that) for budget tools. “That tells you something about how much faith the manufacturer has in their product,” says Anderson.

Premium Power Tools: Pros vs. Cons

Pros

• Premium tools are built better to last longer. As lawn care pro Ryan Farley puts it: “The major difference you’ll tend to see with premium vs. budget power tools is just how long premium tools will last. Certain brands like Honda for lawnmowers, snow blowers, etc are considered premium for a reason—these are the ones you’ll see people still using decades later.”
• Premium tools include performance and safety features you won’t find on cheaper tools. “Some budget tools cut corners on safety features,” says Anderson. “If you’re using a grinder, circular saw, or anything high-speed, you want a tool with proper blade guards, electronic brakes, and overload protection. I’ve seen cheap grinders overheat and nearly cause serious burns.”

Cons

Premium tools cost more — sometimes a lot more. The price difference between a budget circular saw and a top-of-the-line one, for example, can be $300. Because they consume more power, premium tools are also more expensive to operate.

Budget Power Tools: Pros vs. Cons

Budget power tools can’t be all that bad, or no one would buy them. “Over the years, I’ve used everything from cheap, no-name drills to top-tier impact drivers, and I can tell you—there’s a reason pros stick with premium brands,” says Anderson. “But that doesn’t mean budget tools don’t have their place.” Here are two reasons why that place might be in your tool collection and three reasons why not:

Pros

• Budget tools are affordable. That’s important if you need a tool for one-time or occasional use.
• In most cases — but not always — they’ll get the job done. “Honestly, if you’re just doing occasional things around the house like hanging pictures or assembling furniture, budget tools will be just fine—there’s no need to invest in something expensive,” says plumber and HVAC expert Danny Pen.

Cons

• Because they’re made of cheaper materials, budget tools don’t last as long as premium ones. If you use one repeatedly, performance tends to deteriorate over time.
• Budget tools may lack key safety features.
• Batteries for cordless tools may be inferior. “A low-end drill might claim to have a 20V battery,” says Anderson. “But in reality, it won’t hold a charge long or deliver consistent power.”

When to Spend On Premium Power Tools

If you have a job in the trades, you’ll want a premium tool every time. They last longer than budget tools, they’re easier to use, and they do the job — even a tough one — with precision. As Robinson points out: “It’s always worth remembering that tools are an investment. If you’re using them often, paying more upfront can save money in the long run by avoiding frequent replacements.”

DIYers may not need that level of quality. “For DIYers, the decision to go budget or premium depends on how often they’ll be using the tool and what kind of work they’re doing,” he adds. In my DIY experience, it makes sense to choose budget versions of most portable tools, including:

• Drills
• Circular saws
• Bench saws
• Angle grinders
• Sanders

Personally, if I need a shop tool, such as a stationary table saw or drill press, I’m more inclined to spend extra for a premium tool because precision counts in the shop. And I know I’ll be using the tool repeatedly. For lawn and garden tools, Farley has this advice: “If you’re considering a power tool for something you’re going to be doing a lot of, like if you’re purchasing trimmers, a mower, or an edger for a large property, I would personally recommend investing in a premium brand. If it’s not something you’re going to be using as frequently, then I think it’s all right to spring for a budget brand.”

FAQ

Do budget power tools use less power than premium power tools?

Generally, yes. Premium power tools tend to have more powerful motors with higher amperage ratings than budget tools.

What power tool brand is the best?

Here’s where I’ll tell you that my favorite brand is Ryobi. It’s a budget brand, but I find Ryobi tools to be reliable and long-lasting. I’ve had my drill and circular saw for more than 10 years, and I use them both frequently. Ryobi is also an innovative brand that has been offering cordless versions of chop saws, table saws, lawn mowers and other equipment for many years.

The consensus among the contractors I interviewed is that Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita and Bosch are all top-notch premium brands for carpentry, with Milwaukee having a slight edge in popularity. According to Anderson, Metabo and Hilti are the gold standards for metalwork and fabrication, and the best brands for lawn and garden tools are Stihl, Honda and EGO. When it comes to budget brands, the contractors agreed with me that Ryobi gets high marks, as do Ridgid and Black+Decker.

About the Experts

• Jonathan Palley built a tiny home for himself and was so successful that he decided to open a business called Clever Tiny Homes. He is the CEO.
• Myles Robinson operated a boiler repair service for many years until he sold it and opened UK Composite Doors. He has extensive hands-on experience in home maintenance, DIY and improvements.
• Cameron Anderson is an expert in both commercial and residential plumbing. He is the Founder of All Kind Gas & Plumbing based in Brisbane, Australia.
• Ryan Farley is the Founder of LawnStarter, an online marketplace for outdoor home services.
• Danny Penn boasts over 12 years of experience in plumbing, heating, and cooling. He currently leads New Era Plumbing & HVAC in Dracut, MA.

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9 Must-Know Tips to Paint a Door Like a Pro

Lay the Door Flat to Avoid Drips and Runs

For convenience, it’s tempting to leave a door hanging on its hinges when you paint. However, if you do want to paint a door without removing it, it’s certainly possible. But for a smooth finish, lay it flat and remove the hinges, knobs and other hardware. With the door laid flat on sawhorses, you can spread paint more quickly and not worry about drips and paint sags. And you can still paint both sides in a day if you rest the door on lag screws.

Drill one 3/16-in. hole in the bottom of the door and two at the top, then turn 4-in. by 1/4-in. lag screws 1-1/2 inch into the door. Spread the sawhorses apart just enough so that the door doesn’t touch either side but rests entirely on the bolts.

Clean Off Grime Before You Prime

Washing your old finish is probably the most important step you can take to ensure good paint adhesion. Even the best paint won’t stick well to oil and dirt, and there’s lots of both on doors, especially near the knob, where dirty hands have pushed and pulled for years. Before filling holes or priming, scrub the entire door with heavy-duty household cleaner. Let the door dry completely, then fill any holes.

Fill All Holes, Even Small ones

You might assume that new paint will hide tiny dents and scratches, but it won’t. In fact, the new coat of paint highlights minor flaws. Fill dents less than 1/8 inch deep with spackling compound. For deeper holes, use a two-part filler or an epoxy wood filler. It’s more of a hassle to use and you usually end up throwing away a lot of partially hardened filler (mix small batches), but the patch will be hard enough to take a lot of abuse without falling out.

Prime the Entire Door Before Painting

Unless the old paint is in perfect condition, you should prime before painting. Primer blocks stains, mutes dark colors and helps new paint stick better. It also seals porous fillers so the topcoat looks smooth and even. Avoid spot priming—it will make the topcoat of paint look blotchy. If you’re covering a color or painting on a new color (anything other than white), use a gray-tinted primer instead of a white primer.

Search for Flaws After Priming

Minor flaws in your patching job are hard to see on an old painted surface, but they’ll show up much better after a fresh coat of primer. After the primer dries, check the door again with a strong light. Cover any flaws with more spackling compound, then sand and reprime these areas with the same roller or brush, feathering the edges so the additional primer blends in.

Beware of Paint Buildup

Paint the first side, then just rotate the door on the single bolt at the bottom of the door while holding the other two bolts.

Decades of paint buildup can make a door rub against the jamb or door stop molding. The fastest way to remove paint buildup on a wooden door is with a sharp stainless steel or carbide scraper. After scraping, sand the wooden door to smooth the scraped edges. Use power sanders sparingly—high-speed sanding can melt paint, making it even more difficult to smooth out.

Use sandpaper rather than a scraper on metal doors. Chemically strip fiberglass doors if they have flaking paint—you’ll quickly ruin a fiberglass door (smooth or wood grain) if you scrape or sand it. If your home was built before 1979, check the paint for lead before you scrape or sand.

Sand Between Coats

No matter how careful you are, you can usually find ridges or bubbles or a few bits of dust and lint in a fresh coat of paint or primer. For the smoothest possible topcoat, hand-sand the entire door after the primer and between coats of paint. It may seem like a lot of work, but it shouldn’t take more than five minutes when the door is flat on the sawhorses.

Sand with non-clogging 180- or 220-grit sandpaper or sanding sponges (look for ‘non-clogging’ or ‘stearated’ on the label). Sand just enough to make the surface feel smooth. After sanding, vacuum and wipe down the door with a damp cloth to remove all the dust.

Use a Special Mini Roller

The best way to avoid brush marks is to avoid using brushes. High-density foam mini rollers spread paint smoothly and evenly, without brush marks and without the bumpy surface that standard-nap rollers leave. They also have rounded ends that almost eliminate lap marks and let you paint into corners without leaving scrapes or ridges.

Edge in around windows and panels with a brush first, then coat the rest of the door with the foam roller. Use the rollers for both primer and paint. They spread a thinner coat of paint than brushes or conventional rollers do, so you’ll need at least two coats.

Protect Freshly Painted Doors From Sticking

It’s difficult to know how soon to put a door back up again after painting. And for home security, you’ll want to get exterior doors back up as soon as possible. But even when latex paint is dry to the touch, it can still stick to the doorstop or weather stripping and then peel off when you open the door.

To be safe, wait at least two days before closing an interior door. This is especially true during humid conditions, when it takes longer for paint to cure properly. With an exterior door, either remove the weather stripping or cover it with painter’s tape so the paint won’t stick.

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22 Sneaky Spots to Hide Valuables Around Your Home

Toilet Paper Dispenser

There are plenty of small hiding places around your home where you can stash an extra roll of cash. If you want some hidden in your bathroom, take apart the spring bar that holds your toilet paper. Roll up a stack of bills, stash them inside and reassemble the bar for a hidden away safe.

This hint isn’t limited to your toilet paper dispenser, though; you can hide extra cash in any cylindrical container. Pop the end cap off a marker and remove the ink cartridge so you can hide some bills there. Or keep some emergency cash rolled up in a clean, empty sunblock tube. Tuck it in a drawer or medicine cabinet where you can easily grab it when you need it.

Drawers

There are several different ways to hide valuables in furniture. Drawers don’t go all the way to the back of a cabinet, and there’s typically a little space on the underside, too. Put cash or important papers in an envelope and tape them to the back or underside of a drawer.

Alternatively, you can create a false bottom in your drawers. Pick a deep drawer so the depth change won’t be obvious. Cut 1/4-in. plywood 1/16-in. smaller than the drawer opening, and rest it on a couple of wood strips that are hot-glued to the drawer sides. Then, hot glue some items you’d expect to find in that drawer to the bottom so you have a handle to lift the false bottom secret compartment and reveal the booty.

Under Ground

One of the easiest ways to hide valuables in your home is to bury them somewhere unexpected. Put small containers of valuables in a tub of unused cat litter and then pour the cat litter back into the tub. Thieves are unlikely to dig through your cat’s bathroom supplies.

If hiding items in litter makes your squeamish, opt for dirt instead. Roll up some cash, stick it in a medicine bottle or any other watertight container, and bury it in a potted plant. For quicker access and to keep dirt from getting under your fingernails, place a stone or pine cone over it.

Right Out in the Open

Any common household item that has a cavity will work as a secret compartment. Think old printers, computer towers, children’s toys, etc. Just be sure family members know about it so your valuables don’t get donated or tossed! For easy hidden storage access, choose an item that opens instantly, like a vacuum cleaner bag compartment. For more security, choose an item with a cover that screws shut.

Vents

People are unlikely to go digging around in your vents or circulation systems. If you’re looking for clever and small hiding places for a spare key, consider your dryer vent. Use hot glue to stick a magnet to the key, then tuck it up out of sight inside the dryer vent hood. If your vent hood is aluminum or plastic, glue a magnet and key to the inside of the hood.

You can also create a false vent to hide valuables. Cut out a stud space opening to fit a return air grille. Cut off the grille screws and glue just the heads in place. Run four drywall screws into the corners of the opening so they fit just inside the rim of the grille. Then glue rare earth magnets to the back of the grille so they line up with the screw heads.

False Stair Tread

It takes some effort, but if you can, free a tread from your stairs. Then, attach a piano hinge to the back. It’ll be almost invisible and you’ll have a good small hiding place to stash valuables.

Old Clocks

Store a few small items in a wall or mantel clock, as long as the clock itself isn’t worth stealing! Tape them to the back or put them in any open cavities.

Box Inside a Box

Store a container of valuables inside a larger bin full of unappealing stuff. Label it accordingly for one of the best places to hide large amounts of cash.

Cabinetry

There’s a four-inch-tall cavity under all those kitchen cabinets behind the toe kicks. It takes a few carpentry skills, but you can pull the toe-kicks free and make them removable. Most are 1/4-in. plywood held in place with one-inch brads, and they’re relatively easy to pull off. If you have a secondary 3/4-in. toe kick, you’ll have to cut it out at both ends. An oscillating tool works well for that task.

Stick both halves of round hook-and-loop self-adhesive tape to the toe kick. Then, push the toe kick into place. The adhesive will stick to the cabinet base and leave half of the hook-and-loop tape in place when you pull it free. You can store plenty of valuables under two average-size cabinets.

Don’t limit yourself to the bottoms of your cabinets, either. Between almost every pair of upper cabinets, there’s a 1/2-in. gap. Take advantage of that gap by hanging a manila envelope containing, oh, I don’t know, about two grand in hundred-dollar bills? Hang the cash with binder clips that are too wide to fall through the crack.

Garage Door Opener Shroud

Believe it or not, you can hide items like passports and cash under the shroud that covers the garage door opener for a hidden compartment stash box.

Counterfeit Containers

Go online and type in “secret hiding places,” and you’ll be amazed by how many brand-name phony secret stash containers are available. Comet, Coca-Cola, Bush Beans — whatever. But you can craft a homemade version, too. This mayonnaise jar had its interior spray-painted with cream-colored paint for plastic.

Spare Tire

Pick up a spare wheelbarrow wheel and tire at a home center. Deflate the tire, tuck in your goods and re-inflate it.

Old Paint Cans

Next time you use up a can of paint, save the empty can and fill it up with valuables. Then, put it back on the shelf with all your other cans.

Dining Chair Seats

Dining chairs often have a false bottom box space under the seat for a drop-down hinged panel. These can be one of the best places to hide large amounts of cash.

Fake Plumbing Pipes

Put in a fake PVC pipe, complete with a cleanout plug somewhere in your basement. Unscrew the plug and there are the secret compartment items.

Hole in the Door

Drill a hole in the top of any interior door. Size it to fit a cylinder such as an old film container or a cigar tube. Roll up some bills and keep them there.

• • Editor’s Note: If you want to do this trick on a hollow-core door, you have to stick close to the outside edges. Look at the door from the top and you’ll see how wide the solid internal frame is.

Hide a Key In Plain Sight

Say you want to hide a key somewhere other than under the rug or over the door. How about mounting a phony plastic LB fitting? Screw it to the wall and run a bit of 1/2-in. conduit to the ground so it looks official. Cut the head off the bottom screw and glue it in place. That’s it. Swing the cover aside and there’s the key.

If you’re feeling particularly handy, you can build a home for your key instead. Unoccupied birdhouses make handy small hiding places. If you build one, just be sure to screen off the bird entrance to keep out tenants.

Safe in the Wall or Floor

Install a wall hidden safe or cylinder floor safe by bolting it to the floor. (Most hidden safes have holes inside for just that purpose). Hide it in the corner of a closet or other inconspicuous area. Or mount the wall safe inside a wall and cover it with a picture. Or chip out a hole in your concrete slab, stick in the floor hidden safe, then pour new concrete around it.

False Top (or Bottom)

When you build a piece of furniture, build in a stash spot. For example, when you assemble a dresser, put a piece of 1/4-in. plywood just above the top drawers and install a piano hinge on the top. Now you have a spot to hide precious items.

Soccer Ball

A soccer ball makes a perfect spot for little items. Let some air out of the ball and cut one of the seams using a utility knife. After inserting your items, tuck the seam back into place.

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