What To Do if Your Range Hood Isn’t Working

Noisy fan

• Remove range hood filter(s).

• Listen carefully for which fan is making the noise. (Some range hoods have more than one fan.)
• Go to your electrical service panel and turn off the breaker for the range hood. Ensure the power is off by trying the lights or the fan. If they don’t turn on, you’re good to go.
• Remove any metal or plastic grille protecting the fan blades.
• Spin the fan by hand. This can help to identify what’s causing the noise. Always wear protective gloves whether the blades are metal or another material; there could be sharp edges.
• As you spin it, use a flashlight to see if the fan blade is rubbing against anything. If you see it rubbing, reach up beyond the fan and try pushing the motor with your hand slightly to the right or left. Try spinning the blade again to see if it sounds better.
• If the fan squeals, the motor bearings probably need lubrication.
• Remove the bottom metal plate from the range hood by loosening the perimeter Phillips-head screws.
• Grab pliers and loosen the bolt that holds the fan blade to the motor shaft. Then pull off the fan blade.

• Squirt spray lubricant where the shaft comes out of the fan motor.
• Spin the motor shaft by hand to see if it sounds better. Add more spray lubricant if the squealing sound persists.

• Reinstall the fan blade and tighten the retaining bolt.
• Reinstall the range hood bottom plate.
• Reinstall the protective fan grille.
• Turn on the circuit breaker and test the fan.

Article source here: What To Do if Your Range Hood Isn’t Working

10 Landscaping Ideas To Make Your Home Stand Out for Halloween

Pumpkins, Pumpkins, Pumpkins!

Make your yard extra festive for Halloween by highlight your blooming flower beds with a row of real pumpkins. This simple yet highly impactful idea from @priscillablain started with picking out pumpkins in different shapes, colors and sizes from her local pumpkin farm. Then she placed them in front of her flower beds, creating a natural border.

Article source here: 10 Landscaping Ideas To Make Your Home Stand Out for Halloween

The Best Work Socks for Heavy-Duty Use

Smartwool Hunt Full Cushion Tall Crew Socks

Cushion, cushion and more cushion is our favorite feature of these thick socks, made for long days in the great outdoors or on the jobsite.

The padded sole is offset by firm support in the arch and ankle, which keeps these socks from slipping and bunching. We like the tall crew length for various boot heights, but Smartwool makes these in an over-the-calf model, too.

Shop Now

Article source here: The Best Work Socks for Heavy-Duty Use

How To Clean Sticky Grease Off Kitchen Cabinets

Kitchen cabinets take a lot of abuse. We open and close them a hundred times a day. And judging from the fingerprints, we don’t always use the knobs and handles.

Cooking adds even more grime in the form of food splatters and oil-laden steam. Even if you have a vent hood or use a splatter guard when cooking, oils leave a residue on cabinets. Dust and dirt in the air get stuck in that residue, coating your cabinets with a sticky mess.

The first step to keeping your kitchen cabinets clean? “It’s essential to promptly clean up any spills,” says Dan Deonarain, owner of Galaxy Maids, a residential and commercial cleaning company servicing the New York City and Boston metro areas.

Quickly jumping on spills is important everywhere in your home, but particularly in the kitchen. You’ll save yourself a lot of time cleaning if you don’t let things go.

So what’s the best way to clean sticky grease off kitchen cabinets? Deonarain lays it out below, with some surprisingly simple ingredients. You probably have everything you need at home now: dish soap, white vinegar and baking soda. You’ll also need some soft sponges or microfiber cloths and an old toothbrush.

Cabinet Exteriors

“For the outside, you want to start with warm water and dish soap,” says Deonarain. Dishwashing liquid has incredible grease-cutting ability, but it’s gentle and non-abrasive. That’s why Dawn is the go-to cleaner for oil-laden birds and other wildlife after a spill. It works and it’s safe.

Dish soap — actually a detergent — contains surfactants that disrupt the surface tension of water, making it easier to rinse dirt away. Surfactants have complex molecular structures. One end of the molecule is hydrophilic, meaning attracted to water. The other end is hydrophobic, aka water-fearing, but it loves grease and dirt.

When surfactants come in contact with greasy residues on your cabinets, they immediately break apart the grease and surround it. The water-loving ends then band together to rinse away the captured grime.

To clean your cabinet exteriors, get a bucket of warm water and add a squirt of dishwashing liquid. (If you don’t have a lot of cabinets, just use a bowl and a few drops of soap.) Use a soft cloth or sponge — non-scrubby side only — and work the solution over the surface of the cabinets. Rinse off any soapy residue with a clean damp cloth and let dry.

Cabinet Interiors

“Inside cabinets can be an area where you don’t always see trouble spots immediately,” says Deonarain. Even if you’re diligent about wiping up food on the outside, sometimes you just don’t notice that drip of honey or spaghetti sauce that managed to sneak inside.

“Baking soda and vinegar are your go-to household ingredients for the removal of these difficult stains,” says Deonarain.

A 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water is the best recipe for general cleaning, according to the National Sanitation Foundation (now simply called NSF). White vinegar removes food and ingredients-based stains on almost any surface, Deonarain says.

When you encounter a dried-on forgotten stain inside your cabinets, rub a paste of baking soda and a little water on it to break it free. Wood cabinet interiors respond well to baking soda, Deonarain says. It’s abrasive enough to remove stains and safe around food.

While it’s tempting to mix them, it’s not necessary. Cleaners work because they’re acids or bases. Vinegar is a weak acid, and baking soda a weak base. Mixing them creates carbon dioxide, which can facilitate removal of soil but neutralize the cleaning power of the individual ingredients.

Stubborn Stains

If you’ve discovered a crusty, unidentifiable glob that’s not responding to the sponge or microfiber cloth, grab an old toothbrush. (Make sure it won’t be used again for teeth when you’re done!)

Using vinegar or baking soda, scrub the stain until the abrasive action breaks it free. Finish by wiping down the cabinet with your damp microfiber cloth or sponge.

Don’t use vinegar or baking soda on the exteriors of your cabinets unless you test them first. Both substances can damage the surface of wooden cabinets in particular. Test an inconspicuous spot, and if it looks okay, go ahead. Just make sure to immediately rinse off the cleaners after they’ve done their job on the exterior stains.

Quarterly Cleaning

Periodically, take everything out of your kitchen cabinets so you can take action on stains before they sit too long, says Deonarain. He recommends doing this quarterly, or you can stagger the job by working in three sections. Each month do a different section, which works out to quarterly for all cabinets.

“Not only will it help you identify and eliminate stains, but it will also help you declutter and keep organized,” Deonarain says.

Article source here: How To Clean Sticky Grease Off Kitchen Cabinets

Can You Use Oven Cleaner On Kitchen Countertops?

Although we can clean our ovens with baking soda and vinegar or take our chances with the self-cleaning feature, many of us continue to reach for a can of oven cleaner. That’s despite the safety and usage precautions about the chemicals inside.

So if oven cleaner takes care of baked on gunk, should you use it on dirty countertops where you prepare food?

Maybe you just moved in and need to get rid of those mystery stains from the previous tenant. Or maybe you spilled dye all over your white countertop. Whatever the reason, let’s find out if using oven cleaner on countertops is a good idea.

What Pros Say

“It is definitely not a good idea to use an oven cleaner on countertops,” says Dan Deonarain, owner of Galaxy Maids, a New York City- and Boston-based residential and commercial cleaning company.

Oven cleaners contain sodium hydroxide, aka lye, a caustic substance you might have learned about from true crime documentaries on Netflix. (Lye decomposes bodies.) Lye has a pH of 14, making it a strong base and highly corrosive. Bases dissolve organic material like food, grease and hair. They’re also used in drain cleaners.

Even if it feels like you’ve tried everything, oven cleaners are just too powerful for countertops. They remove burned-on food from coated metal surfaces like ovens and barbecue grills, says Deonarain. “Your countertops will never see that level of stains,” he says.

Oven cleaners are toxic, too. The National Capital Poison Center recommends extreme caution when using oven cleaners. These can cause burns to skin, eyes, mouths and even your airway and digestive tract.

Bottom line: Oven cleaners break down greasy food and baked-on gunk. For countertops, it’s just not an efficient or smart way to clean.

Damage to Countertops

“I’ll wear rubber gloves,” you say. “I’ll open a window.”

If you’re determined to give oven cleaner on a countertop a try, consider the damage to your countertop. Here’s what can happen:

Composites

Quartz is a common composite that contains seven to 30 percent resins and other binders, according to the Natural Stone Institute. Oven cleaner’s harsh chemicals can eat away at these additives, exposing the porous stone. This makes your quartz and similar composite countertops more prone to staining.

Marble

Marble’s main enemy is acid, but oven cleaner isn’t good for it, either. It’s not the rock itself but the sealant, which can be applied to the countertop to resist staining. (Marble is a porous stone.) Oven cleaner wears down this sealant over time, leaving your countertop discolored or uneven.

Granite

Granite is stain resistant on its own, according to the Natural Stone Institute, but granite countertops are often sealed for extra protection. Harsh oven cleaners break down that sealant, which can cause discoloration. These are our tips for how to clean granite countertops.

Solid-Surface

Solid-surface countertops like Corian resist stains and look gorgeous, but they don’t hold up to oven cleaner. Manufacturer DuPont states right in its user manual not to use oven cleaner on Corian, and Avonite comes with similar instructions.

Plastic laminate

Plastic laminates like Formica are less expensive and tough, but oven cleaner will dull, scratch and eat away at the finish. Formica’s cleaning tips explicitly warn against using oven cleaner due to the risk of permanent damage. These are our tips for cleaning laminate countertops, and how to remove permanent marker from laminate.

Wood

Wood countertops like butcher block don’t stand a chance against the harsh chemicals of oven cleaner. First, it will eat away any protective coating on the countertop, then it’ll start on the wood itself. These are our tips for cleaning wood countertops.

One trendy use for oven cleaner is stripping wood furniture. Keep in mind it’ll do the same to your wood countertops.

Soapstone and slate

These materials were traditionally used for chemistry lab bench tops. This means they’re tough, heat-resistant and impermeable to chemicals. You might get away with trying oven cleaner on these, but why take the chance?

The Best Way To Clean Kitchen Countertops

Deonarain says dish soap and warm water should be your go-to for cleaning kitchen countertops. Non-abrasive and a strong degreaser, dishwashing liquid cleans well and won’t damage countertops. Dish soap and water works on stone, laminates and solid-surface countertops.

Avoid using acidic cleaners, even weak ones like vinegar and lemon juice, on any natural stone. Keeping butcher block clean and sanitized takes a few extra steps.

Use a soft sponge or microfiber cloth and wipe up spills immediately. Even if messes remain too long, dish soap and elbow grease usually does the trick. After cleaning your counters with soapy water, rinse away any residue with a clean microfiber cloth.

When in doubt, check with the manufacturer of your countertops about the right cleaner to use.

Article source here: Can You Use Oven Cleaner On Kitchen Countertops?

Beginner’s Guide To Steam Bending Wood

Bentwood has aesthetic appeal, no doubt about it. You can use it to make ornate furniture or add some class to furniture that isn’t so ornate.

Some of the chairs at a coffee house near me feature a single bentwood brace that holds all four legs securely. It gives the appearance it was lovingly made by a master craftsperson instead of assembled at a factory, which it probably was.

Besides being attractive, bentwood is also utilitarian. Shipbuilders incorporate it into the hulls of wooden vessels. And it was a necessary component of the wings and fuselages of early aircraft, including the first practical airplane by the Wright Brothers.

Although there is more than one way to bend wood, steam bending is one of the most effective. It’s something the hobbyist can do in the woodshop as effectively as large-scale industrial producers in factories, although it does take preparation and the right equipment. If you avoid common mistakes, like trying to bend the wrong wood or hurrying the process, your chances of success are excellent.

What Is Steam Bending Wood?

Steam bending is the process of softening wood with steam until it becomes pliable enough to bend. The infusion of steam softens the wood’s lignans, the polymers that hold the cellulose fibers together. When the wood cools, the lignans harden again, and the wood holds the bent shape.

Steaming and bending are separate processes requiring equipment you can buy or build yourself. Steaming calls for a steam box, a sealed container where you place the wood and inject steam. Industrial steaming operations usually employ steel boxes that can withstand high temperatures and pressures, but most DIYers go with wood boxes.

To bend the wood, you need a form to clamp it onto. Something as simple as a large wheel would work. But if you want a particular shape, you can cut the shape into the edge of a sheet of plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) and bend the wood around it.

You also need lots of clamps. And if you’re bending sharp curves, you need bendable metal strapping to place on the outside of the wood to hold its shape.

Why Steam Bend Wood?

Using steam is one way to bend wood. Two other common techniques are kerf-cutting, which involves multiple closely-separated shallow crosscuts on the inside of the curve, and lamination, i.e. bending thin strips and gluing them together.

Although steam bending requires special equipment, it has these advantages over other methods:

• Wood grain runs continuously from end to end.
• It’s clean, eco-friendly and uses no toxic materials.
• You don’t need seasoned wood. Freshly cut green wood is easiest to bend.
• Steam-bent wood retains its shape indefinitely. There are no glue joints that can separate.
• Complex curves are easy to achieve.

How Long Does It Take To Steam Bend Wood?

Theoretically, you could complete an entire steam-bending operation in a single day. But for best results, it’s better to plan on two days.

The wood needs to be exposed to steam for at least one hour for every inch of thickness, although longer is better. And after you’ve clamped it to the form, it needs to stay there for at least the same amount of time to cool and retain its shape. Some pros recommend leaving it at least overnight.

If you don’t have a steam box, you need to buy or build one. You can buy a complete kit that includes the steamer and the pieces for building the box (assembly required).

Building a box from scratch with scrap lumber is a relatively simple project a novice can complete in a few hours. You can then generate steam with a wallpaper steamer, clothes steamer or old metal gas can, or even a large metal tea pot.

Best Wood for Steam Bending

Not all wood species are equally bendable. In general, temperate zone (domestic) hardwoods are the best, including:

• Oak (red or white);
• Elm;
• Hickory;
• Ash;
• Beech;
• Birch;
• Cherry;
• Maple;
• Walnut.

There’s dispute among woodworkers about whether softwoods are bendable, so it’s probably best to stay away from them. Similarly, most tropical hardwoods except mahogany are too dense to bend.

The wood should have as straight a grain as possible because it doesn’t bed easily around knots or circular grain. And if you have a choice between green wood and kiln dried, choose green. Kiln dried wood must absorb more steam before it becomes pliable, so the process takes longer.

How To Steam Bend Wood

Once you’ve built your steam box and hooked up the steamer, it’s important to prepare the form, assemble clamps and make all other preparations so you can work quickly when the steaming is complete.

If you’re going to round the edges of the wood with a router or do any other shaping, complete this before you start bending. It’s much more difficult to do after. Once you’re ready, the procedure is simple:

1. Insert the wood in the box, seal the door and fire up the steamer. Watch the water level in the steamer and add more if necessary to ensure a steady supply of steam.
2. Put on gloves, carefully remove the wood (it’ll be hot) and clamp one end to the form.
3. Bend the wood around the form. You may need mechanical help, such as a come-along. Add clamps as you go, spacing them as necessary so the wood conforms to its new shape. If you’re bending around a tight radius, put metal strapping on the outside of the wood before you clamp it.
4. Let the wood cool and dry overnight, then release the clamps. The wood will spring back slightly, so if you need a particular shape it’s best to over-bend it to compensate.

Article source here: Beginner’s Guide To Steam Bending Wood

What To Know About Burying Underground Electrical Cable

Four Burial Depth Options for Underground Wiring

Decide how much digging you’re prepared to do and how deep your trench will be. This helps determine the type of wiring and the method you’ll use. Underground cable and wire can be installed at different depths, depending on the type of conduit, wire or cable.

Six inches

Install galvanized rigid metal electrical conduit with individual insulated wires six inches deep.

• The wires are pulled through the conduit once the entire conduit run is complete, from end-to-end.
• Wires must be rated for use in a wet location, such as Type THWN-2 (thermoplastic/wet location/nylon jacket).

Twelve inches

Install GFCI-protected direct-buried Type UF cable 12 inches deep.

• The GFCI protection is a trade-off that provides enhanced electrical safety while reducing the need for a deeper trench.

Eighteen inches

Install PVC conduit with individual insulated wires 18 inches deep.

• The wires are pulled through the conduit once the entire conduit run is complete, from end-to-end.
• Wires must be rated for use in a wet location, such as Type THWN-2 (thermoplastic/wet location/nylon jacket).

Twenty-four inches

Install Type UF cable for the entire run 24 inches deep.

• This is another trade-off between depth and physical protection.
• Because the direct-buried cable is alone in the bottom of the trench without conduit or GFCI protection, it must be installed deeper in the ground.

Read on for the specifics about each option.

Article source here: What To Know About Burying Underground Electrical Cable

Why Showering During a Thunderstorm Is a Bad Idea

There are lots of things you shouldn’t do in a thunderstorm: take shelter under a tree, use electronics or stand near a window. If you’ve ever heard the old advice about not showering during a thunderstorm because you could get an electric shock from the lightning, you might have rolled your eyes.

It turns out, though, that this isn’t a myth. It’s actually happened, although it’s rare.

“Any use of plumbing or water by a home’s occupants along the path of the lightning would be taking a lightning safety risk,” says Jeffrey Peters, the Severe Weather Program Coordinator for the National Weather Service (NWS) and a lightning safety expert.

But how can electricity from lightning get inside your house? And if showering is dangerous, what about washing dishes or your hands, or even going to the bathroom?

We asked some lightning experts what you should avoid. Any excuse to put off doing the dishes is fine by us!

Can Lightning Travel Through Water?

Yes, and this is why lifeguards always call you out of the pool at the first crack of thunder.

Pure water is not a good conductor of electricity, says Randy Adkins, a meteorologist in the forecasting department at AccuWeather. “But the water we all consume isn’t pure,” he says. “It contains dissolved minerals, and it is these minerals that serve as a conductor for electricity.”

The pipes in our homes also make indoor water use dangerous in a thunderstorm.

“Metal plumbing pipes transmit electricity, and water can transmit electricity, as most people know,” says Dr. Mary Ann Cooper, professor emerita of emergency medicine at the University of Illinois and managing director of the African Centres for Lightning and Electromagnetics Network.

Plus, Adkins says, “copper and steel pipes are excellent conductors of electricity, as are most metals, due to the physics and chemistry of these materials.”

If you remember your high school science, metals contain electrically charged particles called electrons that can move about easily. “When provided with an electrical voltage, they will readily move and carry an electrical current,” Adkins says. This process, called conduction, allows the electricity of the lightning to move through the metal as well as the water, Peters says.

How Does Lightning Get Inside Your House?

“Lightning’s path from the cloud to the ground is one of least resistance: When lightning strikes a house, it can travel toward the ground through the plumbing, wiring or phone lines,” Peters says.

Even if it hits somewhere nearby, it could still make its way inside. “Lightning that strikes outside, nearby one’s home, can pose a danger with the lightning traveling by way of conduction underground through the metal pipes and water into your home,” he says.

It’s hard to say how close a lightning strike needs to be to potentially endanger someone inside a house, though. Adkins cites cases where lightning has been observed to travel 60 to 100 feet, but that’s outside.

“For someone indoors, it is rare for a lightning strike that far away to cause harm, even though it can travel through electrical wiring and plumbing lines located outside of the home,” he says. He says lightning typically enters a house after striking the roof.

Adds Cooper: “There is no simple answer to this, as it depends on the strength of the lightning strike, the moisture of the ground and many other factors.”

If it gets inside, though, lightning can travel through the plumbing and the water indoors. And if you’re in contact with that water by showering, the lightning can travel through you as well.

Should I Avoid the Shower, Sink and Toilet?

Peters and Adkins say they’d advise against using water inside during a lightning storm, including showering, taking a bath, doing dishes or even washing your hands. These activities increase your risk of getting a jolt.

“The danger posed with the lightning’s electricity — the average lightning bolt carries 30,000 amps of current — and the quick occurrence of lightning, in less than a second, suggest it’s best to avoid using water inside your home during a thunderstorm,” says Peters.

“Since wiring is another path that lightning takes to the ground in homes, ice makers and dishwashers pose a lightning safety risk due to the wiring and plumbing.”

Electrical appliances are also a risk, because your home’s electrical system could be a conduit for the lightning.

“Corded phones are the greatest danger since the receiver is so close to one’s head,” Adkins says. “A cordless phone isn’t an issue, provided you are not right next to the base station. Cell phones, when used indoors, are fine as well. Using a computer is a potential hazard unless you are using a laptop while not plugged in.”

The sink full of dishes can wait, too. The standard guideline is 30 minutes after the storm passes, Adkins says. You’re probably safe going to the bathroom, though.

“Using the toilet is of some small risk, but it isn’t as high as being in the shower or washing your hands for the simple fact that you are not actually immersed in the water,” Adkins says. “And if you are, then things are going horribly wrong!”

How Do I Protect My Home From Lightning Strikes?

A new type of plastic plumbing called PEX may be somewhat safer than copper or steel pipes in theory, Adkins says. “But I cannot imagine this would make a significant difference in terms of overall risk,” he says.

A better choice for protection? “A house that has an installed lightning protection system — think lightning rods — stands a much better chance of having a lightning strike take a safer path to ground, as opposed to traveling through a house’s wiring or plumbing,” Adkins says.

Protect Yourself

According to Peters, exact numbers of people injured while using or being near plumbing are hard to come by.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), one-third of all lightning injuries (300 to 400 Americans struck per year) occur indoors. Your total risk each year of being struck by lightning is more than one in a million, according to the NWS.

And though only 10% of lightning strikes are fatal, survivors are often seriously injured.

“Data collected by the NWS indicate there hasn’t been any lightning fatalities directly related to indoor plumbing in the last 15 years,” Peters says. “Although it’s reportedly rare to be killed by lightning inside your home when using water, some who are injured are forced to cope with life-long health issues including neurological problems and pain syndromes.”

Adkins says the risk of serious injury or death from showering during a lightning strike is lower than the risk of falling in the shower or slipping on the bathroom floor. Still, if you’re concerned about being struck by lightning while indoors, avoid water or showering during a thunderstorm — even if it’s rare to be affected.

Article source here: Why Showering During a Thunderstorm Is a Bad Idea

This Car Air Freshener Makes Your Ride Smell Brand New—And Has Over 31,000 Amazon Ratings

It’s that time of year again—school carpool season. That means my car smells and looks something like a garbage dump covered in sweat, mud and snack wrappers. Instead of daily deep-cleaning, however, I reached for Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener. With over 31,000 Amazon ratings and an affordable price tag, I expected it to be good. I needed it to be good. Spoiler alert: it’s amazing—especially when you combine its power with one of the best car vacuums and a “carbage” can.

What Is Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener?

A bottle of Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener is every worn-in car owner’s wildest fantasy. A few spritzes returns even the dingiest, mustiest minivans into fresh-off-the-lot newness when you close your eyes. It uses natural enzymes to eliminate existing odors, reduce new ones and blanket the air with new car scent. It’s safe to use in every inch of a car’s interior, including upholstery, leather and even car floor mats. While it’s not a car cleaning product per se, it definitely helps stretch the time between cleanings and is the cherry on top of detailing projects.

How We Tried Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener

My Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener test process was no joke. I spritzed the holy heck out of the worst part of my 2021 model minivan—the middle row of seats. They receive the most combat action with kids jockeying for the comfier captains seats, added leg room and door cup holders. I didn’t clean or wipe anything down (even though it needed a good cleaning) in order to best test how well the air freshener worked. After all, anyone can say it’s good when spraying it in an already clean car. Spritzing some Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener inside a war zone of toxic snack and sweat chaos, though? That’s a trial worthy of a university science department award.

The results shocked me. My completely disgusting minivan went from radioactive-waste-pit-of-despair to brand-new-with-a-blindfold in only five or six spritzes. Naturally, I assumed the results would fade after a few minutes. They didn’t. My car genuinely smelled new and ketchup-free for about two full days. At the end of the second day, I decided to clean the entire car out as I do each week and start from fresh. I sprayed the Chemical Guys spritz again against a newly-overhauled backdrop, and this time the scent lasted a full four days with a bit even lingering into the fifth. My kids asked me if I brought the car to a detailer.

I also tried soaking cotton balls with the fluid to leave under seats as several Amazon reviewers suggested. To my surprise, this worked marvelously for up to a full week. It sopped up the stink my two dogs left behind from a long ride to the park and kept the third row of seating and trunk lightly refreshed.

Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener Features

Much like the Chemical Guys microfiber cleaning cloths, this air freshener is easy to use. Even people who have never cleaned or deodorized a car before can use it. Just open the nozzle, spritz a few times and voila! Cars smell brand new. This air freshener is a must-have for those who don’t have time for disposable interior car wipes or regular visits to the car detailer.

Pros:

• Leaves even the dirtiest, mustiest cars smelling brand new
• Uses natural enzymes to break down existing odors and blanket the air with freshness
• Affordable price—a giant 16-ounce bottle costs about $9
• Over 31,000 Amazon ratings with a nearly-perfect 4.2-star average

Cons:

• Nozzle offers a fairly aggressive and direct spray that would be better as a fine mist
• Some Amazon reviewers note that the scent is better when diluted, but I happily used mine at full strength

The Best Amazon Reviews

“The scent lasted forever!” describes verified Amazon purchaser Sarah Mavres. “I mean seriously over a week or two. It’s incredibly affordable and works great!”

Another verified Amazon purchaser and five-star reviewer, Brad shares, “I am very picky on scents—especially the new car scent. I have been detailing my own vehicles for many years and this is the best scent there is. It’s easy to use and lasts for many weeks with just a few sprays. I actually had a friend get in my vehicle and ask how old it is because it still smells brand new.”

“I have been through my fair share of new car scent air fresheners,” writes Jeff Manson, a verified Amazon purchaser. “This Chemical Guys one is the closest I have found to the real new car scent.”

The Final Verdict

If my Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener review hasn’t been clear enough, allow me to clarify—buy it! It restores a fresh scent to older model cars, deodorizes stinky kid messes and removes the shame of having passengers know what you snacked on the day before. Plus, a 16-ounce bottle of the Chemical Guys New Car Scent Air Freshener is only about $9 and lasts for months.

Where to Buy Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener

The best place to find Chemical Guys New Car Smell Air Freshener is Amazon, where a 16-ounce bottle costs just $9. You can also score cheaper deals on smaller packages, with a four-ounce size retailing under $5. But don’t waste time—reviewers note that the most popular scent, New Car, tends to sell out quickly, so add to cart now. Your car—and your nose—will thank you.

Shop Now

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Article source here: This Car Air Freshener Makes Your Ride Smell Brand New—And Has Over 31,000 Amazon Ratings

How To Grow and Care for Celosia

The National Garden Bureau, a non-profit organization promoting gardening in North America, announced 2023 will be the Year of the Celosia. That should will make this fun group of plants even more popular, introducing them to many new gardeners.

What Is Celosia?

Celosia is both the scientific and common name for several flowering annual plants related to the ancient grain, Amaranth. Celosia comes from an ancient Greek word for “burning” or “flame.” Many celosia flowers do look like flames, ranging in color from yellow to orange to red.

Why Are Celosia Popular?

Celosias are popular because they look so different from other flowers in the garden. Once you see that flower head that resembles the cockscomb of a chicken, you’ll likely never forget it. Another variety looks like a brain! Plus, many varieties feature bright colors in shades of pink, red, yellow and orange.

Types of Celosia To Plant

There are three main groups or types: plumosa, cristata and spicata.

Plumosa group

These have the flowers that look like flames or plumes of feathers. An outstanding example is a variety called ‘Flamma Orange.’ It produces orange flowers on small plants that grow to just under one foot. This variety received a national All-America Selections award in 2022.

Cristata group

Also called the crested group, these include varieties with flowers that look like a chicken’s cockscomb or even little brains. Many come in shades of red. ‘Cramer’s Rose’ is relatively easy to find.

Spicata group

These are sometimes referred to as wheat celosia because the flowers are carried on upright spikes, like wheat. ‘Flamingo Feather,’ with silvery pink blooms, is one example.

When To Plant Celosia

Celosia is planted outdoors in the spring once there’s no danger of frost. Nighttime temperatures should average around 55 degrees before planting celosia outside in containers or in the ground.

In the fall, celosia in full bloom is often available for purchase as a flowering plant that adds instant color to your garden. They also make great additions to fall containers to replace other annual flowers that are fading out.

How To Plant Celosia

You can grow celosia from seeds started indoors, or buy plants in the spring. Plan to start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Always plant celosia in a location with well-drained soil and full sun.

Also pay attention to their mature size. Depending on the variety, celosia ranges from as short as eight inches to as tall as three feet.

Celosia Plant Care

Watering

As with other annuals grown in the ground, provide the equivalent of an inch of rain a week. Newly planted celosias may need more frequent watering until they’ve grown new roots. If growing celosia in containers, you may need to water daily during the hottest days of summer.

Fertilizer

Fertilize your celosia as you would other annual flowers. Those grown in the ground may not need additional fertilizer, but those in containers likely will. Use a general fertilizer labeled for annual flowers.

Pruning

To encourage branching and more blooms, pinch back young plants by carefully cutting off or pinching out the growing tip of each. After that, continue to cut off old blooms as they begin to form seeds. This encourages the plants to keep blooming.

Many celosia plants will self-sow readily in the garden, so be sure to cut off old blooms before the seeds drop to the ground.

Overwintering

As an annual flower, celosia plants are not often overwintered. It’s best to start new plants from seeds in the spring or buy transplants.

Where celosia is hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 10 and 11, celosia can be left out year round and will be a perennial. But even in these areas celosia is often grown as an annual, especially if there are occasional periods of widespread frost.

How Long Do Celosia Last?

Celosias as annuals last through one growing season. They’re finished after the first frost in the fall.

Fortunately many of the flowers, especially those in the cristata and spicata groups, dry easily so you can use them in dried flower arrangement and wreaths. To dry the flowers, cut them before they start forming seeds, then hang them in a cool, dark room.

Article source here: How To Grow and Care for Celosia

What To Know About Digging a Well

If you’re thinking about DIYing a new well for your household, you probably shouldn’t. Most wells, like the one on our property, are between 50 and several hundred feet deep, and digging to that depth by hand is out of the question.

Whether you’re contemplating a new well for drinking water or irrigation, or as an emergency water source, you’ll almost certainly be working with licensed well pros using specialized, heavy-duty drilling or driving equipment.

Before the digging begins, you’ll have some planning to do, and you’ll probably need permits. Many municipal and county health authorities strictly regulate wells, including their location, depth and structural components. A well has to be a specified distance from neighboring wells, septic fields and sewer pipes, so the location that seems ideal to you at first may not be where you end up digging it.

In a nutshell, here’s what’s involved with the process of digging a well:

How to Dig a Well

Well pros transport drills and drivers to the well site in large trucks with booms that extend straight up for 20 feet or more. The two most common techniques are drilling with a boring bit and driving, which involves pounding a hollow, heavy pile into the ground. Driven wells are typically 30 to 50 feet deep, while drilled wells can go down hundreds of feet.

After they’ve dug the hole — or while they’re digging it — technicians feed in a casing to prevent dirt from falling into the well. It’s usually a four- to eight-inch steel pipe formed with 20-foot threaded sections.

The final step is installing the well pump. There are two kinds. If the well is deeper than 100 feet, an impeller pump goes on the end of a 1-1/2- or 2-in. supply pipe inserted in the casing and pushes water to the surface. If the well is less than 100 feet deep, a siphon pump connected to the supply pipe and mounted at ground level sucks water out of the well.

How Much Does It Cost to Dig a Well?

According to 2022 data from the state of California, the national average cost just for drilling a well is $9,180, with a range from $3,750 to $15,300. Per-foot costs are from $25 to $40 for a four-inch-wide well, $30 to $65 for a six-inch well and $60 to $100 for an eight-inch well. Per-foot costs vary by depth and soil conditions.

Much more goes into a well system than just the hole in the ground. Some of the average costs for auxiliary equipment include:

• Well casing: $250 to $2,500;
• Well pump: $300 to $2,000;
• Electrical wiring and controls: $500 to $1,500;
• Pressure tank and switch: $300 to $2,500.

On top of that, permits cost from $350 to $700. And you may need extra labor and storage tanks, depending on your system layout.

Our system utilizes above-ground, unpressurized storage tanks to hold water because the wellhead is at a much lower elevation than the house, and the well is more than 200 feet deep. It would be impractical for the well pump to deliver pressurized water to the pressure tank from that far down, so we have an auxiliary jet pump to pressurize the tank.

The previous owners dug the well and installed the system, and it’s a fair bet it cost them well over $15,300. We recently spent $12,000 just to clean the casing and replace the pump.

How to Choose a Location

Contamination by surface water is a significant problem, and shallow wells are more vulnerable than deep ones. Areas that flood or are subject to heavy rain runoff are generally unsuitable. So are heavily fertilized plots of land, because fertilizer leaches into the groundwater.

To prevent contamination, the gap between the outside of casing and the ground must be well sealed. This is usually accomplished by pouring bentonite clay into the gap. A powder when dry, it absorbs water and hardens in the ground.

Be Sure to Test the Water

While shallow wells may be vulnerable to surface contamination, deep ones can have unacceptable concentrations of iron, calcium and other minerals — possibly even radioactive ones.

Besides being unpleasant to drink and possibly harmful, super “hard” water can create problems for the plumbing and may need to be filtered. Soil composition and rocks greatly affect water quality, so before digging it’s prudent to check with local soil engineers. After digging, test the water by collecting a sample and sending it to a lab for analysis.

Is a Well a Good Alternative to Municipal Water?

If there’s no access to municipal water, a well is the only option. But some property owners have a choice. If you’re one of them, consider the following:

• Well water may contain minerals, but it’s free of additives some people consider undesirable, such as chlorine and fluorine.
• There’s no guarantee the water table will stay at its current height. If the well dries up, you’ll have to dig it deeper or dig another one.
• Well water is free, but the electricity needed to pump and pressurize it isn’t. If you have a well, your electricity bill will go up.
• The well pump won’t work during a power outage. A back-up power system is highly recommended.
• The municipality maintains a municipal system. All maintenance and repairs to a well system, on the other hand, are your responsibility.

Article source here: What To Know About Digging a Well

What to Know About Raccoons in Your Yard

On Twitter the other day, I ran across a story about a Philadelphia woman who caught a raccoon lounging in her hammock. I once had a similar encounter with a mischievous band of raccoons at my California home.

Late one night, I awoke to creaking and squeaking sounds in the backyard. I turned on the porch light to discover a family of raccoons (aka a nursery or gaze) having a grand old time on my son’s playground set.

On top of seemingly enjoying swinging, we know that raccoons can also be curious, often rummaging through trash bins looking for dinner.

Did you also know raccoons are highly intelligent and dexterous? They can break into unlocked homes by turning doorknobs or flipping a latch on a dog door. And once in the kitchen, raccoons have been known to unscrew the lid from a peanut butter jar and other food containers!

Thomas Ward, a biologist/training specialist for Critter Control, offers insight into what a homeowner should do if they encounter one or more raccoons in their yard.

Are Raccoons Rodents?

No. The common North American raccoon (P. lotor) is a nocturnal mammal belonging to the family Procyonidae. They’re distinguishable by their bushy ringtail and furry black markings around their eyes that look like a mask. It’s no wonder many people refer to them as the “bandits” of the forest.

Where Do Raccoons Live?

“Raccoons live across the United States and thrive in a variety of habitats,” says Ward. They particularly like woodland areas near water sources like streams, marshes and rivers.

Because of their adaptability, they fair just as well in forested areas and grasslands as in urban areas, farms and suburbs. Ward claims raccoons have adapted to populated areas by learning to scavenge from garbage cans, gardens and crop fields.

Wild raccoons typically nest in tree cavities, rock crevices, underground burrows and the abandoned dens of animals like muskrat lodges. “In suburban areas, raccoons tend to use insulation in attics for nests or attics as denning sites,” Ward says. “They also take residence in sheds and other similar buildings, as well as crawlspaces and areas under buildings and decks.”

What Do Raccoons Eat?

The better question might be, what don’t raccoons eat? Because raccoons are omnivores, they have a diverse diet.

“In the wild, raccoons eat birds and other mammals, but prefer to hunt for easier meals, if they are available,” Ward says. “Some of their favorite foods include nuts, berries, insects and eggs. They also catch fish, shellfish, reptiles and amphibians if their den site is near a body of water.”

A raccoon’s diet depends, of course, on where they live. If you have one, they’ll use your bird feeder as a source of food.

Fun fact: Raccoons are hygienic creatures who like to wash their food before consuming it.

Are Raccoons Nocturnal?

Yes. Raccoons come out when the sun goes down. Looking for food — either through foraging or hunting for their prey — they have a keen sense of night vision and are incredibly fast on their feet. They can run at about 15 miles an hour.

Do Raccoons Hibernate?

No. Raccoons don’t hibernate, although they do sleep a lot more in winter.

Ward says raccoons enter a hibernating-like state called a “torpor” during the colder months. When the temperature drops low enough, raccoons take shelter, often denning under decks, in attics, or inside chimneys and fireplace flues. During this low-activity period, they use stored fat to sustain them until spring.

What Are Raccoons Attracted To?

Food, primarily. After that, safety and shelter.

The following are some of a raccoon’s favorite backyard “banquet” sources:

• Pet food left out overnight;
• Bird feeders and bird baths;
• Goldfish ponds;
• Chicken coops;
• Vegetable patches;
• Grubs under sod;
• Compost piles;
• Dumpsters and garbage cans.

Do Raccoons Attack People?

It depends.

“Raccoons are generally shy around people, but they are defensive fighters,” Ward says. If cornered, ill or protecting their young (kits), they may lash out or bite in self-defense. “It is especially unwise to approach a raccoon in your attic or other confined space,” Ward says.

Dogs and cats are especially at risk of being injured by a raccoon, so don’t leave your pets outdoors unattended after the sun goes down.

Are Raccoons Dangerous?

“Yes, raccoons can be dangerous,” says Ward. They’re strong with sharp claws they’ll use to defend themselves.

Raccoons are also known rabies vector animals, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC): “In the United States, rabies is mostly found in wild animals like bats, raccoons, skunks and foxes.”

Ward also cautions a raccoon in your house can introduce several diseases. A parasite called raccoon roundworm grows in their feces and can spread to pets and people.

Caution: If you come across a raccoon that appears unwell, call your local animal control officer immediately.

Article source here: What to Know About Raccoons in Your Yard

How Much Fall Garden Cleanup Is Really Necessary?

When my sister bought her first house, her new neighbors told her that in fall, after raking up leaves, the previous owner would get up on a ladder and pull the last of the leaves off the trees. This way, they wouldn’t fall on her pristine leaf-free lawn.

On the other hand, social media is full of people who claim you should “leave the leaves” and everything else in the garden so insects have a place to overwinter. Between these two extremes is a balanced approach to fall garden clean up.

What To Remove From the Garden in the Fall

Here’s a list of what to clean up in the fall so you don’t face a big mess in the spring, while retaining a habitat for overwintering insects.

Vegetable garden debris

Once vegetable plants stop producing, pull them out. If they’re disease-free, compost them. Otherwise, put them in the trash.

Annual flowers

Pull, especially those in containers. They don’t return in the spring, so there’s no reason for them to hang around all winter.

Leaves

It doesn’t help the lawn or flower beds if fallen leaves form smothering mats. Instead, mulch leaves in place on the lawn with the bag attached to your mower. Then use the crushed-up leaves for mulch on flower beds.

Weeds

Keep weeding as long as weeds appear. If the weeds have seed heads, put them in the trash instead of your compost pile.

Self-sowing flower seed heads

While it’s great to leave seed heads alone on plants like coneflowers to provide food for birds, some seed heads, like those on asters, can produce a lot of seedlings to pull out the following spring. If you know a plant self-sows, cut off those seed heads.

Some perennials

Certain perennials, like hostas and daylilies, generally don’t host insects through the winter and hold no winter interest. These can be removed in the fall, especially once frost hits.

Diseased leaves

Many plants suffer from powdery mildew or other plant diseases that don’t actually kill them. To help control these diseases, rake up fallen leaves where the spores overwinter and discard them.

Garden decorations

Not every garden decoration will survive winter, especially if there’s ice and snow where you live. Bring in pots, ornaments and other garden decorations where you can keep them dry. If you don’t have room, group them in one area (like on a patio) and cover with a tarp.

Garden tools and garden hoses

Before the first freeze, disconnect water hoses, drain the water and put them away. Then round up all your tools, clean them and store them where they’ll stay dry.

What You Can Leave in the Garden in the Fall

Surprisingly, sometimes leaving things alone in the garden in the fall works out fine. Nature often takes care of at least some of the cleanup for you. Here’s a list of what you can leave in the garden in the fall:

Root crops in the vegetable garden

Leave root crops like carrots, turnips or parsnips in the ground. Frost improves their flavor.

Chopped or mulched leaves

Leave these on garden beds. They’ll help to protect plant roots and gradually break down to add organic matter to your soil. Plus, they provide a place for fireflies and other insects to overwinter.

Flower stalks with and without seeds

Many solitary bees and other insects overwinter in the stems of certain perennials, so leave them perennials. Also, perennials like garden mums do better if their foliage is left alone until spring. And remember, the seed heads of some perennials (like coneflowers) provide food for birds, including finches. Leave them standing!

Ornamental grasses

Ornamental grasses can also be left alone in the fall to provide shape and form in the winter garden. If you’re concerned about self-sowing grasses, cut off just the seed heads. In the spring, ornamental grasses should be cut back before new growth emerges.

Shrubs

Most of us don’t think about cutting down shrubs in the fall, but may be tempted to prune them heading into winter. Don’t give in to this temptation. Leave your flowering shrubs alone in the fall.

Many favorite spring flowering shrubs, including forsythias and lilacs, form their flower buds in late summer and early fall. If you cut these shrubs back in the fall, you’ll probably cut off the spring flowers as well.

Article source here: How Much Fall Garden Cleanup Is Really Necessary?

How To Take Advantage of the Incentives in the Inflation Reduction Act

In August 2022, the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit and the High Efficiency-Electric Home Rebate Program became law, both part of the landmark Inflation Reduction Act (IRA). While the titles are a mouthful, the programs contain a serious set of incentives to green up your home.

“There has never been a better time to make energy-efficient improvements to your home,” says Christian Mathers, co-founder of Epic Generators. “Much of the law is directed toward combating climate change through tax credits, and you win with ongoing savings on energy bills.”

Some of the federal incentives are available immediately, while others kick in on January 1, 2023. Still more will be rolled out by state energy offices, local governments and nonprofit organizations over the next 12 to 24 months.

Here are some of the upgrades enabled by the act, and how to take advantage of them. For more information and to understand how the IRA applies to your income bracket, consult the government’s official site, Rewiring America and The Switch is On, which also has an incentive calculator based on your zip code.

Summary of the High Efficiency-Electric Rebates Based on Income

The IRA allocates $4.275 billion to state energy offices to develop and administer a new high-efficiency electric home rebate program. An additional $225 million is available for tribal governments. These funds are reserved for households with a total income of 150 percent or less of their area’s median income (AMI).

Low-income households (LMI, less than 80 percent of AMI) are eligible to receive a rebate equal to 100 percent of the project cost, up to the caps listed below. Households between 80 percent and 150 percent AMI are eligible for rebates of 50 percent of project costs, up to these caps.

The law also provides separate rebate amounts for income-eligible multifamily buildings. A few of the notable rebates provide up to:

• $1,750 for a heat pump water heater;
• $8,000 for an HVAC heat pump;
• $840 for an electric (including induction) cooktop, stove, range, oven, or heat pump clothes dryer;
• $1,600 for air sealing, insulation and ventilation;
• $2,500 for electric wiring;
• $4,000 for an electric load center upgrade.

There is a $14,000 maximum benefit per home, plus an additional $500 for qualified contractor incentives.

Revamped Home Efficiency Tax Credits

Besides these direct consumer rebates, the IRA reauthorized and revised the longstanding Efficiency Tax Credits.

Starting in January 2023 and each year through 2032, eligible households can claim a tax credit of 30 percent of the cost of qualified energy efficiency projects, up to $1,200 per year. These include weatherization and building envelope improvements, as well as appliances and other energy measures, subject to the following caps:

• $600 for Energy Star exterior windows and skylights;
• $250 for Energy Star exterior doors (or $500 limit for all exterior doors);
• $600 for the highest efficiency tier for central air conditioners and other qualified gas, propane or electric HVAC systems, and electrical upgrades that enable the energy-efficiency upgrade;
• $150 for home energy audits;
• $2,000 for electric heat pumps and heat pump water heaters, biomass stoves and boilers. The tax credit for installing heat pumps or heat pump water heaters does not count towards the annual $1,200 limit.

“This new annual limit, which will be available for the next decade, means you can plan for multiple upgrades and improvements over time, and spread the costs and incentives out according to your home energy budget,” said Sara Baldwin, director of electrification with Energy Innovation.

Home Energy Audit

If you’re unsure where to start, ask your your power company or a local professional for a home energy audit to learn how to eliminate energy leaks and save money. Expect to pay between $200 and $600; as mentioned above, you’ll get a $150 tax credit.

Solar and Battery Storage Tax Credits

If you want to install a solar energy system, you can take immediate advantage of a 30 percent tax credit on your new system.

“Unlike other IRA benefits, there’s no cap on how much you can spend,” says Mallory Micetich, a home expert at Angi. “And the savings don’t stop there. You’ll also save between $10,000 and $30,000 on energy costs over the lifespan of your solar panels.”

Heat Pump HVAC

Heat pumps are the new rage for HVAC systems, water heaters and clothes dryers.

“This is not some crazy, complicated technology,” says Panama Bartholomy, director of the Building Decarbonization Coalition. “A heat pump HVAC is basically just an air conditioner that can also run in reverse, and a heat pump water heater is just a tank of water with a refrigerator on top.”

Heat pumps can cut your energy costs by as much as 50 percent, but run around $10,000 to $18,000. As noted above, there will be a $2,000 tax credit for those starting in January, and new rebates for income-qualified homes. Currently, there is also a 30 percent incentive for geothermal-type heat pumps.

Heat Pump Water Heaters

There is also a $2,000 tax credit that can be used toward a heat pump water heater. Most cost less than that, and installation is a relatively easy DIY, especially Rheem’s new 120V model.

“Depending on your quoted installation costs, you could get a new heat pump water heater for free or close to free and save hundreds per year, since they use one-third of the energy of traditional water heaters,” says Mathers.

Lower-income households that may not have a large enough tax liability can instead apply the $1,750 rebate to reduce the upfront costs of a heat pump water heater.

Electric Panel Upgrade

In some cases, these energy-efficient technologies require electrical upgrades. Starting in January, eligible homes can use the high-efficiency tax credit for panel upgrades and wiring. And low-income households can take advantage of the $4,000 rebate for electrical panels and $2,500 for wiring (or half that for moderate-income households).

Weatherization

Starting in January 2023, a $1,200 tax credit can be used annually for adding insulation.

“Once the credit, yearly savings and your comfort are factored in, this is a must-do improvement,” says Mathers. “New or additional insulation, especially in the attic, makes all the difference.”

The Environmental Protection Agency estimates the average homeowner will save 15 percent of heating and cooling costs, more in colder climates. LMI households can use the $1,600 incentive for weatherization.

Exterior Doors

A credit of $250 is currently available for replacing an ill-fitting or inefficient door with an Energy Star compliant one. There’s a $500 cap for multiple exterior doors.

Appliances

Starting in January 2023, low-income households can get an $840 credit toward an electric stove. Besides lowering greenhouse gas emissions and improving energy efficiency, this can also improve your health.

“There’s an increasing body of knowledge about the indoor air quality impacts of cooking with gas, like nitrogen oxides, carbon monoxide, even formaldehyde being detected,” says Bartholomy. “This is going to be a real help in particular, since poorly ventilated kitchen spaces are often in poorer communities. So it’s great to see some money there.”

Whole Home Performance

This one is more complex and some details still need to be worked out. This is another program administered by state energy offices, but when it eventually goes into effect it will look roughly like this:

Single-family homes that achieve 20 to 35 percent energy savings over a certain period of time, through energy efficiency measures, will be eligible for a rebate of 50 percent of the project cost, up to $2,000.

Homes that achieve 35 percent energy savings will be eligible for a rebate worth 50 percent of the project costs up to $4,000. For low-to-moderate income households, these amounts increase. Households achieving 20 to 35 percent energy savings can get 80 percent of project costs up to $4,000, and 35 percent energy savings will get 80 percent up to $8,000.

Incentives are also available for multifamily building owners, including those with low- to moderate-income residents. However, this rebate may not be combined with the high-efficiency electric home rebate program for the same single upgrade.

DIY vs. Hiring Pros

Many of these incentives are available for DIYers, but Bartholomy says some may require you to work with a professional installer. If you do, he recommends finding one affiliated with or trained by a manufacturer. “They will say something like Mitsubishi-affiliated or a Fujitsu-affiliated installer,” he says.

Article source here: How To Take Advantage of the Incentives in the Inflation Reduction Act

Why You Should Be Cleaning Your Walls Regularly

Humans built the first walls thousands of years ago, and we’ve been avoiding cleaning them ever since. Smudges around light switches? Of course. A sponge and some gentle soap, and those high-traffic spots are good as new.

But the entire wall? Who wants to do that, let alone every wall in the house? It looks high-effort and low-return. Would anyone even notice you did it?

Washing walls turns out to be a good idea, and it comes with benefits beyond a fresh, clean start. I talked with Melissa Homer, chief cleaning officer at MaidPro.com, for some advice on how to do this overlooked cleaning task.

How Often Should You Clean Your Walls?

It’s a trick question because it depends on the room, says Homer.

Kitchen and bathroom walls need regular cleaning. Living areas and bedrooms can probably do with an annual wall-washing, at most. Spot cleaning keeps lesser-used guest bedrooms clean for years.

Kitchens and bathrooms need the most attention because moisture and oils in the air cause dirt to stick to vertical surfaces. “Dust that would usually fall to the floor in most rooms will stick to a wall that’s damp and sticky from cooking or shower steam,” Homer says.

Climate and personal habits affect how often you should clean your walls, too. If you have pets, or if you often keep your windows open in humid or smoggy conditions, all your home’s walls might need cleaning more frequently.

“At the end of the day, the wall will tell you if it needs to be cleaned,” says Homer.

Benefits To Cleaning Your Walls

“Washing walls, for most people, is an aesthetic choice, as dirty walls can really take away from an otherwise attractive room,” Homer says. Dirty walls start to look discolored and uneven after being ignored, and with deep neglect can exhibit “maple-syrup” drips.

Other benefits include:

• Allergy relief: A dirty wall isn’t generally a health concern, but allergy sufferers will thank you for removing dust and other allergens.
• Extended paint life: Cleaning grimy, heavily-soiled walls can damage paint. Periodic cleaning over the life of the wall minimizes costly paint jobs.
• Preventing mold and mildew: Mold can grow anywhere, even in paint. So keep walls clean, especially in moisture-prone areas.
• Fresher look: Clean walls brighten any room and cost less than a remodel or paint.

Tools To Help Clean Walls

You don’t need much to clean your walls:

• Microfiber flat mop with telescoping handle;
• Household mop bucket;
• Dishwashing liquid, such as Dawn,
• Neutral-pH floor cleaner like Mr. Clean;
• Microfiber cloth or sponge for spot cleaning.

Wall Cleaning Tips

“The key to washing walls is to remember it’s just surface dust on a delicate surface,” Homer says. “So we don’t need to — and shouldn’t — risk doing anything aggressive to get it clean.”

Try these tips to gently and effectively clean your walls:

Check to see if the wall needs cleaning

There’s no sense wasting time washing a wall that’s not really dirty.

An easy way to check? Homer says take a microfiber towel and dampen it with a little dish-soap solution — a drop or two in warm water will do — and swipe the cloth over a washable wall. Let it dry, then come back to see how dirty your wall really is. If there’s a big change in the paint brightness or color where you dragged your cloth, the wall’s due for a cleaning.

Make sure your wall is washable

“If you have non-washable paint, you can’t clean it, even if you should,” says Homer. For non-washable surfaces, including wallpaper, use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush to sweep up dirt and dust. Then spot clean as gently as you can.

Flat-finish paints are generally less washable than eggshell or satin, although some manufacturers make washable flat paints. If you don’t know if your paint is washable, test a small section where you won’t mind if it goes wrong, like behind the couch.

Use a mild cleaner

If you’re cleaning a kitchen tile backsplash, you can afford to put a little elbow grease into it. But a painted wall needs more finesse than strength. A microfiber mop and a mild cleaner is all you need.

“Dish soaps like Dawn and neutral-pH floor cleaners like Mr. Clean are the go-to defaults for delicate tasks like washing walls, as they really can’t damage anything that can handle water,” Homer says.

Wash the entire wall

Start at the top and work down, says Homer. Use an extendable mop handle if you can, because if you don’t get the whole wall you risk leaving a visible line between dirty and clean sections.

If you have 20-foot ceilings, let the high reaches go or hire professional cleaners, Homer says. They’ll come with commercial-length poles or scaffolding and get every corner. Don’t risk a fall for a clean wall.

Don’t use too much water

The microfiber mop should be damp, not wet, when cleaning your walls. Squeeze out excess water before applying it to the wall. Excess water will just cause a mess, and risk damaging your baseboards and/or carpet.

Water and electricity don’t mix, so don’t allow water to get in your receptacles or light switches. It can cause a dangerous short circuit or ground fault.

Article source here: Why You Should Be Cleaning Your Walls Regularly