How To Choose an Outdoor Kitchen Sink

We ask a lot of an outdoor kitchen sink. It must stand up to freeze/thaw cycles in some regions and to the sun’s UV rays and extended exposure to moisture in others. It must fit in visually with the rest of the outdoor living space and hold up to frequent use — cooking, cleaning and maybe the occasional dog bath.

In the rudimentary outdoor kitchen at my property, we installed a polyethylene utility sink — admittedly, not the most stylish option. Anyone designing a full-service outdoor kitchen with a cooking area, refrigerator and seating will probably choose a different aesthetic. An outdoor kitchen sink often ends up doubling as a workstation for gardening and other outdoor activities, so it has to be durable and easy to clean.

What To Consider When Choosing an Outdoor Kitchen Sink

Your climate and outdoor kitchen style are the top considerations when choosing an outdoor kitchen sink, but there are others. Keep the following in mind:

Where you live

In a region with harsh winters, you’ll need a sink made of metal, stone or composites that expands and contracts with extreme changes in temperature. If you live in an area with high temperatures and lots of sun, you’ll do better with a sink that disperses the sun’s glare. Think composite granite, brushed stainless steel or hand-tooled copper.

Kitchen design

Will the kitchen have a roof? If not, glare from the sink and exposure to wind and rain are important considerations. If a roof provides protection from the elements, your options are more varied. Also choose a sink that fits with the look and size of the countertop.

Function

Choose the size and type of sink based on how you intend to use it. If the outdoor kitchen doubles as a utility work area, you’ll need a larger, deeper sink. Consider a double-basin sink if you plan to wash dishes or reserve part of it for gardening activities.

Sink Materials

When shopping for an outdoor kitchen sink, you’ll find most available options are stainless steel or composite granite. Materials like copper, concrete, porcelain and quartz also hold up well and look great outdoors.

Here are the top material options for an outdoor kitchen sink:

• Stainless steel: Lightweight and virtually incorruptible, stainless steel is the top choice for outdoor kitchen sinks. Stainless steel sinks come in all shapes and types, including single- and double-basin, top-mount, undermount and apron style (AKA farmhouse). They also come in metal gauges from 22 (lightweight and somewhat tinny) to 12 (heavy and solid).
• Composite granite: These are made from granite dust and resin. They’re heavy — the cabinet may need reinforcement — and are generally black, gray, off-white or white. They’re also available as top-mounts or undermounts. Composite materials are easy to clean, resilient in extreme weather and look great with stone or tile countertops.
• Quartz: Like composite granite, quartz is an amalgam of crushed stone and synthetic resins. The stone is a combination of granite, marble, silica and sometimes actual quartz. Quartz is as durable as composite granite with similar color choices: black, gray, off-white and white.
• Copper: These are rust-resistant and impervious to mildew. They develop a soft patina after exposure to the elements and need periodic cleaning to prevent them from turning green.
• Concrete: Durable and functional, a molded concrete sink is porous and heavy. It needs more cleaning than other materials. Also, there’s a chance it will crack in extreme temperature fluctuations.
• Porcelain: This is the easiest sink material to keep clean. But it’s breakable and not the best choice for an outdoor kitchen that doubles as a utility area.

Matching the Faucet

Most people choose their faucet based on sink and countertop style. If you already have a faucet you like, you may want to do the reverse. Keep in mind your faucet has to be as weather-resistant as the sink. Stainless steel is best.

Top-mount sinks have one or three faucet holes in the back. Standard kitchen faucets usually require three holes, but many contemporary pull-outs or pull-downs need only one central hole. If you choose an undermount sink, the faucet has to be mounted on the countertop. So don’t forget to drill those holes as part of your outdoor kitchen project.

Cost Considerations

Sink costs vary by style. Top-mounts are the least expensive, undermounts mid-range and apron/farmhouse sinks the costliest. Size also affects price and installation costs if you’re not going to DIY. They’re usually higher for undermounts and apron sinks than top-mounts.

Stainless steel is an economical option, ranging between $400 and $1,000. By contrast, composite sinks cost $800 to $1,500, and porcelain sinks between $900 to $1,500. Copper sinks are a splurge, typically between $1,500 and $2,500. If concrete is your top choice, you can find a pre-molded one for as little as $500 or $600.

Article source here: How To Choose an Outdoor Kitchen Sink

Can You Paint Bathroom Tile?

One of the advantages of a tiled wall or backsplash is its permanency. Once properly installed, grouted and sealed, tile is there to stay.

The durability of tile, however, can also be a drawback when it loses its luster or you’re just tired of it, because demolishing tile is a major project. Rather than go to all the trouble, many homeowners choose to leave the tile as is and cover it with another material.

An even easier option is to paint the tile, which I did years ago to the bathroom in my rental unit. The paint gave the bathroom a fresh, new look and has stood the test of time.

I no longer own the unit, but when I was invited to walk through the property some 10 years after completing the project, the tile still looked great. Gone were the moldy grout lines that had been painted over, and the paint was free of chips and blemishes!

Can You Paint Bathroom Tile?

As someone who’s done it, absolutely. There are, however, some important considerations, because the process isn’t the same as painting a wall.

• You must meticulously clean and scuff the tiles before you paint. Glazed tile, the kind you find most often on bathroom walls and kitchen backsplashes, is non-porous, so adhesion is the main concern. Any stray grease or soap scum left on the tile will result in lifting paint.
• You can paint most tile, but tile with a clear urethane finish should not be painted. Use a razor scraper in an inconspicuous area to check for a clear finish.
• You need to prime. Primer acts like an adhesive.
• You need the right kind of paint. The best choice is a waterborne epoxy formulation such as Behr Pro. But some super hard acrylic resin formulations like Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Spa or Majic Paints Diamond Hard Repurpose will also work.
• Think twice before painting tile with lifting or cracks or crumbling grout, or tile subjected to unusual amounts of water. You’re probably better off covering that with a vinyl liner or wall panel.

Pros of Painting Bathroom Tile

Before you undertake any multistep home improvement project, know what benefits you’ll realize. With painting tile, here’s what to expect:

• Cheap and easy upgrade: Painting tile provides a fast upgrade for your bathroom walls or kitchen backsplash at a fraction of the cost to replace them or cover them with something else.
• Color control: You have hundreds of colors to choose from. If you make the wrong choice, you can always repaint.
• Design flexibility: You don’t have to go for a solid color, although that’s the easiest approach. If you want, use a stencil to create painted patterns on the tile.
• Easier cleaning: When you paint the grout as well as the tile, which is recommended, you’ll avoid cleaning moldy grout lines in the future.

How To Paint Bathroom Tile

As with any painting job, the quality and longevity of a tile paint job depends on the prep work. It’s even more important when painting tile, because without it, the paint will lift.

Here’s a quick overview of the prep and painting procedure:

• Do an initial cleaning: Wash the tile thoroughly with a degreasing cleaner. A household cleaner containing ammonia is good, but a solution of 1/2-cup trisodium phosphate (TSP) substitute per gallon of warm water is better. This strong detergent really cuts through the grease, and it helps to dull the shiny surface of glazed tiles. Wear gloves and goggles.
• Make repairs: Fill chips and cracks with a durable repair putty like Bondo All-Purpose Putty. Use a putty knife to force it into cracks in the tile and voids in the grout. Then scrape off the excess and, when the putty hardens, sand down the repairs with 120-grit sandpaper.
• Sand the tile: Get out your handheld orbital sander, put on a sheet of 120-grit sandpaper and sand the entire area you plan to paint. The sandpaper dulls the shine and makes micro etches that provide traction for the paint.
• Clean again: Wipe down the entire area you sanded thoroughly with a damp rag to remove sanding dust.
• Lay drop cloths and mask with tape: Put drop cloths (preferably canvas) on the floor to catch drips. Lay painter’s tape around the perimeter of the wall or backsplash and cover anything you don’t want to paint, like faucet handles or soap dishes.
• Apply a coat of primer: Use a high-quality bonding primer like Insl-X Stix or Behr Bonding Primer. Apply it with a four-inch roller fitted with a long-nap (1/2-inch or longer) roller. Keep an angled trim brush handy for cutting in, painting around obstructions and filling in voids left by the roller.
• Paint the first coat: Wait two or three hours for the primer to dry. Then scuff with 220-grit sandpaper, wipe off the dust and apply the first coat of paint.
• Paint the second coat: Scuff the first coat with 220-grit sandpaper when it’s dry, which may take eight hours or more depending on the temperature and humidity. Apply a second coat, which should be the last one you need.

How Long Does Tile Paint Last?

The longevity of the paint in my former rental unit notwithstanding, tile paint isn’t meant for long-term repairs and generally starts to fade after about six years.

If you’ve done your prep work properly, however, it shouldn’t crack or peel, so you can always freshen it up with a new coat. Repainting is easier, because all the old paint needs is a good cleaning and scuffing. You shouldn’t need to prime it.

Article source here: Can You Paint Bathroom Tile?

The Eleven Percent: Meet Melinde Madsen, Production Carpenter

This FH series introduces readers to a few of the women who make up 11 percent of the construction workforce in the U. S., spotlighting stories of their careers in the field. Know someone we should feature? Email us here.

Melinde Madsen loves to make things. In college she studied woodworking, bronze casting and metalwork, creating sculptures aplenty. But while she excelled at those crafts, she didn’t truly consider herself a fine artist.

So when she was offered a job as a production carpenter at Minneapolis-based building and remodeling company Terra Firma, she saw it as the perfect opportunity to keep adding to her skill set.

“Working as a carpenter has been a great way for me to continue my education,” she says. “Even though I have a background in woodworking, carpentry focuses a lot more on the structural side of building. It’s a bit of a challenge, but it’s been really fun.”

Madsen is wrapping up her first year at Terra Firma. So far she’s learned hands-on skills, from demolition to framing. Recently she’s been enjoying a lot of trim work. She also works as a studio technician at St. Olaf College, where she manages student workers, fixes tools and handles administrative and budgeting tasks.

In her free time, she still pursues her love of creating useful things, including carving spoons.

We asked Madsen for her thoughts on the state of the carpentry industry.

Q: What are your favorite types of carpentry projects?

A: One of the first houses I worked on, I was there from start to finish, doing demolition, framing and trim, so that holds a special place in my heart.

I love working on old houses in general because I get to see how carpentry techniques, wood and building materials have changed over the years. Demos are fun that way; taking apart what’s been done in the past and seeing the though processes of the people who worked on them before. I also recently got to learn some timber framing. It’s a whole art in itself.

I’ve been here a year and I’ve learned so much, but I’ve barely scratched the surface. There’s so much to it. With remodeling, every building is different and every project is a new experience. I love working on tiny trim details and figuring out how to make it look the most aesthetically pleasing.

I also like examining the old woodworking and timbers from 100 years ago. You can see the old-growth rings and tell the tree was cut down from a forest, rather than grown on a timber farm. They’re gorgeous and they’ve held up for so long.

I’m making a collection of scraps that were getting trashed, different types of wood that I’ve found on the jobsite, like redwood and tropical hardwoods. It’s fun to have little mementos.

Q: What’s it like being a woman in the carpentry trade?

A: I’m pretty small, so I can fit in small places and do a lot of tight jobs, which is great. My physical strength is sometimes a challenge, but there are so many ways to accommodate that, like using leverage to my advantage.

Finding clothes, boots and tool belts that fit and are of good quality is a challenge, too, because even the smallest sizes of men’s Carhartts are just swimming on me.

My boss at St. Olaf, Christie Hawkins, was telling me how there were only a few women when she started out as a carpenter, so she really had to kick some ass to show she was worthy of being there. I’m very fortunate I have not had to do a ton of that. The people I work with are so great, welcoming and eager to teach. We work as a great team, and if I’m lifting something super heavy, they don’t even ask, they just give me a hand.

And I surprise them sometimes. Like, I’ve been doing metal work and welding for a while, and once while we were cutting this big steel beam they asked if I wanted to try. I was like, “Yeah, sure, let’s go.” They loved that I just wanted to jump in. My team is just wonderful, and Terra Firma is a great place for me to be.

Q: How do you imagine the future of carpentry?

A: I’ve seen a lot more women going into sculpture, and I’m hoping that will lead to more women in the trades as well. Our company is also starting to hire more women and nonbinary people, which is something I really hope continues because it’s fun to see us have more representation, as well as to work for a company that is pushing to be more inclusive.

Q: Any advice for young women looking to get into carpentry?

A: Just do it. If that’s something you’re passionate about, it can’t hurt to give it a shot. Also, one way to find the support you need to get started is through woodworking communities and tool libraries. They can help get you learning and working on a lot of fun stuff.

Q: What are your top pro-specific tools?

A: I test out a lot of other people’s tools to find ones that really work for my body, to keep myself healthy and not overstrain. I mostly use DeWalt, but I’ve started to love Makita because their tools are light and have a lot of power.

For trim tools, I really like these clamps because they’re handy for miter corners. My favorite trim tool is this Lee Valley rasp — the one that’s half-round in shape and pointed. I use it often when I’m trimming. Then I have my Sloyd knife with a sheath, which is good for sharpening pencils and cutting loose things, and I use it for carving spoons, too.

My combination square is super handy. Of course, I always need a tape. Then I have a Japanese pull saw for flesh cutting and details. My pry bar gives me a lot of leverage, and that’s something I really need. I had a smaller one, which I hated and never used. Then I got this one, and it’s now my favorite thing — my big wrecking bar I use all the time because it’s so effortless.

Melinde Madsen Bio

Melinde Madsen is a first-year carpenter apprentice at Terra Firma in Minneapolis and also works as a studio technician at St. Olaf College. She earned a Bachelor’s degree in studio art and art history with a concentration in women and gender studies.

Her area of focus in studio art was sculpture, working in woodworking, bronze casting, and metal work. In her personal time she enjoys making things for everyday use as well as carving cooking utensils.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She’s spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary, The Guerrero Project.

Article source here: The Eleven Percent: Meet Melinde Madsen, Production Carpenter

8 Best Shop Hand Cleaners

Best Hand Cleaner for Removing Grease

If you’re working with grease and oils, Grime Hand Soap is a great way to get your hands clean.

Grime Hand Soap features a blend of activated charcoal and natural sand as abrasives, tempered by the moisturizing properties of coconut oil and the pleasant scent of fir needle essential oil. It’s formulated to cut through grease and oils that can withstand traditional soaps, but skin-friendly enough to avoid scratching or chafing.

Check out our full rundown on Grime Hand Soap for an in-depth look at its pros and cons.

Shop Now

Article source here: 8 Best Shop Hand Cleaners

Pros and Cons of Aluminum Siding

Aluminum siding celebrated its 50th anniversary on Sept. 9, 1995. On that date, a Washington Post article called the budget siding material “a marvel of mass production” but also “a suburban eyesore.”

Those two phrases pretty much sum up the main pros and cons of aluminum siding.

Back in 1995, sales of aluminum siding were estimated to be between $6 and $20 billion annually. Although that figure rose to $151 billion in 2020, aluminum now commands only a small percentage of the national siding market. That may be because many homeowners associate aluminum siding more with sheds and outbuildings, or with budget siding for lakeside vacation homes, than their primary homes.

Empire Building offers three reasons why aluminum siding has fallen out of favor: industrial appearance, color fading and vulnerability to denting. Before discounting aluminum, however, it’s important to realize that the list of reasons for choosing it is quite long.

Like all siding materials, aluminum has evolved, even since 1995. Modern aluminum siding is more durable and attractive than earlier versions while remaining budget-friendly. If you’re considering siding for a new or existing residence, there are some good reasons to consider aluminum — and some equally good reasons to pass.

Aluminum Siding Pros

Cost is definitely a factor in aluminum siding’s favor. It’s slightly cheaper than vinyl, fiber cement and stucco, and much cheaper than brick, stone and wood.

Here are some other reasons to choose aluminum over other siding options:

• Rot- and pest-proof: Aluminum is impervious to insects and other pests, and cannot be damaged by mold and mildew. It requires little maintenance and may warrant a reduction in homeowner’s insurance premiums, depending on the insurer.
• Weather-resistant: Besides being waterproof, aluminum doesn’t expand and contract with changing temperatures the way vinyl does. It doesn’t crack or turn brittle with age. Aluminum rusts, but the rust compound — aluminum oxide — forms a protective barrier that prevents further corrosion.
• Paintable: Aluminum siding comes in various colors. When the factory finish fades, you can repaint it without any of the issues you encounter with vinyl.
• Good insulator: Aluminum siding comes in various gauges, and the heavier gauges insulate really well. This makes aluminum a good choice in extreme climates.
• Lightweight and easy to install: Installation costs tend to be lower for aluminum than other types of siding materials.
• Recyclable: Aluminum is considered a green building material because used siding is 100 percent recyclable. This is offset, however, by the environmental impact of aluminum mining, which is considerable.

Aluminum Siding Cons

For many people, the main drawback of aluminum is its appearance, which can be dated and industrial. Cognizant of that, manufacturers have tried to make aluminum more closely resemble wood, imprinting the panels with a grain and finishing them with earth-tone colors. This hasn’t eliminated the stigma for everyone, however.

Besides its appearance, aluminum has other significant drawbacks:

• Easy to dent and scratch: Tree branches flying around in the wind are one possible source of dents and scratches. Dents immediately belie the metallic nature of the material. Homeowners can avoid the worst by installing 53-gauge panels, which cost more than the standard 44-gauge ones.
• Colors fade: The factory finish inevitably fades in the sun, and panels can become chalky. This can present a problem for homeowners hoping to replace a single damaged panel because it can be difficult to find a good color match. Aluminum siding generally needs to be repainted every 10 years to keep it looking its best.
• Pinging noises: Aluminum siding may “ping” in high winds, and sometimes on broiling summer days when heat causes the metal to expand. The noise bothers some homeowners.

Aluminum Siding Manufacturers

Although aluminum has been used in construction by manufacturers like Alcoa since the 1920s, Frank Hoess was awarded the first patent for aluminum siding in 1937. The small company he founded stayed in business until about 1960 in spite of heavy competitions from larger players, such as Reynolds Metals.

Neither of these companies are still producing aluminum siding, but many others are. Here are some of the main ones:

Kaykan

Kaykan began producing aluminum siding in 1974 and expanded its product line to include vinyl siding in 1983. The company has outlets in several U.S. states and Canadian provinces and manufactures two product lines.

Kaykan siding is their standard offering, available in a selection of light colors and a few dark ones. Highly textured Urbanix siding, available in a darker color palette, offers a more contemporary appearance.

Duschene

Quebec-based, family-owned Duschene has been manufacturing roofing and siding products since 1927. It’s a trusted supplier in Canada and sells its products throughout the U.S.

It offers horizontal and vertical siding with plain and textured surfaces in three colors: white, ivory and chocolate. The selection is more basic than extensive, but the company also offers aluminum soffits, fascia and other moldings. It also offers advice on combing aluminum with other materials, like vinyl.

Gentek

Gentek Building Products, a division of Associated Materials, LLC, has been producing aluminum and steel building products for 50 years. It offers three lines of aluminum siding products. The Deluxe line is the original, while the Woodgrain 2000 Series and the Cedarwood series are more recent offerings with textured surfaces that closely resemble wood grain.

One advantage of Gentek siding: It’s manufactured with an extra-deep 1/2-inch butt height, giving it an added dimension you would expect from a material other than aluminum.

Article source here: Pros and Cons of Aluminum Siding

Will You Try this Viral Tik Tok Pillowcase Hack?

Dusting is never fun, but there are a few dusting jobs that are super time-consuming and frustrating.

We’re talking about fuzzy blinds, sticky dust on top of kitchen cabinets, and probably the worst of them all — a dusty ceiling fan. Not only do you have to haul out the ladder to reach the fan, but inevitably all the dust gently falls to the ground as you start to clean.

The solution? It’s easier than you think. This TikTok hack using a simple household item will change how you clean your fans forever!

@tina.coastalcraftaholics

#TopGunMode #fypシ #angletontx #texascheck #tiktokmademedoit #housecleaning #cleantok #dirty #getcleaning @Jeffrey Wente

♬ Ultimate life hacks – Kelly

How It Works

Gently slip a clean pillowcase over the dusty ceiling fan blade. (Be sure the pillowcase covers the whole blade. You might need a king-size.) Then grip both sides of the pillowcase near the base and slowly pull outward. Repeat for each blade.

Unlike a cleaning cloth or duster, a pillowcase traps the dust inside as you wipe each blade. No falling dust!

When you’re finished wiping, the thick layer of dust will be gone. But you might have some residue remaining. In that case, wipe the blades again with your favorite cleaner (I like Mr. Clean All Purpose Cleaner) and a damp microfiber cloth.

Results

This hack is a game changer! It’s one of those simple tricks that works so well, you’ll wonder why you didn’t think of it yourself.

I live in a hot, dry climate with lots of dust, and the buildup on my ceiling fans can be embarrassingly bad. I’ve tried a lot of differently solutions including extension pole dusters, which are difficult to maneuver but easier than climbing a ladder, and microfiber cloths, since microfiber traps dust better than other fabrics.

But this is the only method that has truly handled falling dust — vital if you’re dealing with a thick layer of dust (like me!).

Potential Problems

The only issue with this hack? When you’re done, you’re left holding a pillowcase full of dust. Not exactly ideal. But I simply went outside and gave the pillowcase a good shake. That got rid of most of it. Then I turned the pillowcase inside out and washed it in a standard laundry cycle.

Another option is this FanBladeCleaner. It’s essentially the same shape as a pillowcase, but it’s made of microfiber, which might be more effective at wiping the dust away than an ordinary pillowcase. However, the pillowcase trick works. Because we’re willing to bet you already have a few in your linen closet — it’s free!

Article source here: Will You Try this Viral Tik Tok Pillowcase Hack?

How the Construction Industry Can Fill 490,000 Open Jobs

Housing affordability is quickly becoming a significant issue in the U.S. To combat the rising cost of housing, the U.S needs a robust and healthy construction industry. But even though the latest reports show hourly earnings for construction workers are climbing faster than ever, the industry still finds itself facing a large and growing labor gap.

Earlier this month, Alicia Huey, first vice chairman of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB), went before Congress to advocate for one potential solution to the trades’ labor issues: recruiting more women. Currently, women make up just 11 percent of the construction workforce in the U.S.

During her meeting with the House Ways and Means Committee, Huey outlined several steps Congress could take to make the construction industry a better place for women in the workforce.

“Congress should pass the Protecting Worker Paychecks and Family Choice Act, which would expand the Paid Family and Medical Leave tax credit to make it more generous for small businesses and make it more affordable for small businesses to offer paid leave by expanding pooling options,” Huey said.

“Similarly, Congress should ensure that existing tax incentives for employer-provided childcare are flexible for businesses. This will help more women who are currently unable to work to get jobs.”

Increasing female participation in the trades is essential to the industry’s labor shortages. According to the latest employment figures, the construction industry added 36,000 new workers in May but still had a staggering 490,000 open jobs. And even though the month of May saw hourly earnings in construction increase 6.3 percent, companies are still having a difficult time finding workers, particularly with experience.

“Despite steeply rising pay for hourly workers, job openings in construction hit an all-time high at the end of April, while the industry’s low unemployment rate suggests experienced workers are scarce,” said Ken Simonson, chief economist for the Associated General Contractors of America (AGC).

In May 2022, the unemployment rate among jobseekers with construction experience fell to 3.8 percent, almost half what it was the year before. That suggests experienced workers are already working, aging out of construction or moving on to different career paths, leaving the industry desperate for fresh young talent to fill those boots.

“There is no shortage of available, good-paying career opportunities in the construction industry,” said AGC CEO Stephen Sandherr. “Public officials should be exposing people to construction career opportunities that pay well and don’t require a college degree and the debt that all too often comes with it.”

Article source here: How the Construction Industry Can Fill 490,000 Open Jobs

14 Tips and Tricks for Using and Storing String

String Dispensers

Here’s a great way to reuse empty CD/DVD containers. Drill a hole in the top for the string to slide through, then screw the lid under a shelf and snap on the string-loaded container. Pull down and snip off the desired length. You’ll never worry that your ball of string will roll away across the floor, dragging its tail behind it!

Article source here: 14 Tips and Tricks for Using and Storing String

We Put This 30-Second Outdoor Cleaner to the Test

When I built a new deck last summer, I wanted to create a backyard oasis. I used durable poly-deck boards, and filled the space with Trex patio furniture and plastic-based pieces supposedly tough enough to stand up to weather.

One year later, I found something I didn’t expect — mildew and grime on my outdoor furniture. So I was eager to try 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner, a popular product on social media. Spoiler alert: The deck and patio cleaner holds up, but you need to know how to make the most of it.

What Is 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner?

As the name suggests, 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner is a concentrated formula that cleans outdoor surfaces in 30 seconds or less. When applied, it clears up almost every type of algae, mold and mildew on your patio furniture. It’s easy to use and strong enough to skip pressure-washing.

Simply dilute the solution with tap water in an old spray bottle and apply it to stains and gunk. It’s safe around your best plants — just spray down affected garden areas and the cleaner will break up in the soil.

30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner offers a powerful clean on outdoor surfaces like wood decking, concrete sidewalks, asphalt driveways, bricks, canvas awnings, plastic furniture and vinyl siding.

How We Tested It

One corner of my deck receives limited direct sunlight, so anything in that corner collects mildew and pollen if it’s not wiped down every few days. I’d be lying if I said I had the time (or motivation) to wipe everything down every 72 hours, so it was time to put 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner to the test.

I mixed a 1:1 solution of cleaner and water in a spray bottle. Then I went after the mildew and pollen, concentrated in a few particular crevices. Much to my delight, the stubborn mildew broke up instantly. I was truly shocked. I grabbed a damp cloth, wiped down the affected spots, and the gunk vanished. No need for pressure washers or high-powered hoses.

Impressed, I moved on to a pair of colorful Adirondack chairs that had grown dim from rain and dust storms. No more than a teaspoon of 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner and my chairs were like new. To say I was thrilled is an understatement.

Product Features

This plant and garden-safe cleaner makes cleaning even the grimiest outdoor furniture a breeze. It breaks up tough mold, mildew and algae stains before your eyes.

It works on family heirloom swing sets, all the outdoor furniture you can buy online and even hardwood and poly-based decking. If you have a long list of yard maintenance tasks, a single gallon bottle should last you all summer long.

Pros

• Easy to use;
• Concentrated formula;
• Plant-safe;
• Good in a spray bottle or as a wipe-down product;
• Works on most types of algae, mildew and mold;
• Affordable price.

Cons

• Needs to be diluted before using;
• Contains bleach, which irritates skin. We recommend gloves for optimal protection.

FAQ

Can 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner be used on vinyl fences?

Yes! Vinyl fences are actually one of the best places to use it, though it’s best to spray the diluted solution on, then hose it off. It works particularly well in corners, cracks and crevices that other cleaners seem to miss.

Will it discolor my roof tiles?

Amazon reviewers in Florida and Texas report the cleaner didn’t damage or discolor their roofing. It’s their go-to, monthly tune-up for stucco and Spanish tile roofs.

Can it be used to clean RVs and fifth wheels?

Yes! 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner works on fiberglass exteriors and hulls, and it boasts a large fan base of RV enthusiasts and campground visitors.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Christine, a verified Amazon purchaser writes, “I just sprayed, waited, brushed lightly and rinsed with my hose, and all the green stains were gone from my white shutters. I used this product on all my siding, then my neighbor used it to clean his. I love it. Works very well, and did not harm my plants. It does contain some bleach so beware what you wear.”

“So simple and so efficient at cleaning mold from the outside of my home,” writes Jably, another five-star Amazon reviewer. “It was a breeze, literally. Will be ordering more only because it’s a big house and we couldn’t cover all of it. Some spots were really bad and will need a second treatment, though. Very few.”

“So we were out camping with a friend, and I got jealous of his awning and how clean it was,” writes verified Amazon purchaser Brian. “He tells me to try 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner. So I order from Amazon … and, well, I’m glad I did. This was AMAZING. Best stuff I have used to clean the awning, and it was so simple.”

Final Verdict

If you take pride in your home’s curb appeal, keeping a bottle of 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner on hand is a game-changing move. It’s affordable, easy to use and removes grime off everything from Trex to stucco, concrete sidewalks and tile roofs. You’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.

Where to Buy 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner

A one-gallon bottle of 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner retails on Amazon for about $19. It’s also available at Walmart, The Home Depot, Lowe’s and Ace Hardware for $12-13.

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Article source here: We Put This 30-Second Outdoor Cleaner to the Test

Succulents vs. Cacti: Is a Cactus a Succulent?

When I was growing up, hedge cactus (AKA Peruvian apple cactus) covered the backyard of my California home. These spindly, silvery-green plants with long, menacing needles had tree-like stalks that towered over me. The plants were between 25 and 30 feet tall, and more than a century old.

One old trunk in particular is seared into my memory because my father carved his name in it with a pocket knife. It read, “Luke 1930,” which would have made my dad about 12 years old when he did it. It’s no surprise that, to this day, I hold a childlike fascination and affection for succulents.

If you love succulents, you’re clearly not alone. Their popularity has been soaring of late, and they’re absolutely everywhere. From garden centers to grocery stores and farmer’s markets, these blimpy and barbed beauties are trending hard.

Resilient and nearly worry-free, succulents are the darlings of the garden world right now. If you’re not hooked yet, read on.

What Is a Succulent?

A succulent is a type of plant with a high capacity for absorbing and conserving water, which is why it’s extremely adaptable to dry, desert-like conditions.

Defined by plump, fleshy leaves or stems for storing moisture, some of the most common types of succulents include ornamental jade plants, aloe (commonly found in burn salves and skin creams) and agave (blue agave juice goes into tequila).

There are also edible succulents, such as prickly pear and yuca, which are favorite ingredients in Southwestern and Mexican recipes. Rarely are succulents poisonous, although some can cause nausea, vomiting and even hallucinations (peyote) if ingested.

The International Union for Conservation of Nature (ICNU) estimates there are more than 3,000 species of succulents worldwide. And many of these species are capable of outliving you! According to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, the giant saguaro, found exclusively in the Sonora desert of Mexico and parts of southern Arizona, can live up to 200 years.

Is a Cactus a Succulent?

Yes. A cactus (Cactaceae family) is a succulent. But not all succulents are cacti.

What Is a Cactus and How To Spot It

A cactus is a succulent with the following characteristics:

• Small round nodules (areoles) where branches, flowers, fruit and needles grow.
• Spines, glochids (tiny, soft hairs) or razor-sharp spikes that prevent animals and birds from accessing the water supply.
• Waxy “skin” to retain moisture within the stems.
• No leaves.
• Produces flowers and seeds.
• Shallow root systems allow for the easy absorption of rainwater.
• Slow-growing.

How To Grow Succulents Indoors

To grow succulents and cacti outdoors generally requires lots of sunshine, warm temperatures and a limited amount of precipitation. A USDA Plant Hardiness Zone of 9 and higher is optimal.

Note: If you reside outside these recommended zones, you can still grow succulents outdoors as long as you protect them from frost damage. Place them in a greenhouse over the winter or bring them indoors when the temperature drops below 40 F.

If you’re interested in cultivating cacti and other succulent plants but live in a frigid climate or where the growing season is short, horticulturist and author Leslie Halleck suggests looking for small LED or fluorescent grow lamps or contained units to support succulent growth indoors.

“By employing supplemental lighting indoors, you can keep a healthy collection of better-looking succulents year-round,” she says.

Pro tip: If you’re growing succulents under lights, be sure to set the plants out in lower light areas of your home for short periods of time. And don’t overwater. That’s a sure-fire way to kill succulents.

Article source here: Succulents vs. Cacti: Is a Cactus a Succulent?

How to Spot a Credit Card Skimmer at Gas Pumps

Drivers are keeping a close eye on gas prices, which are at an all-time high. But a lack of cheap gas isn’t the only issue you might face when filling your tank. A gas pump skimmer can do a real number on your bank account.

Gas-station fraud commonly occurs with the use of skimmers, small devices that thieves place on or above the card readers at gas pumps (and ATMs) to copy and steal your credit card information. They used to be found primarily in cities. But now the scam has spread into rural areas, and everyone should be on alert for these devices.

One of the best ways to avoid becoming a victim of a gas pump card skimmer is paying inside. But time is valuable, and while most people are willing to download the best gas apps and gas credit cards to save money, they’re less thrilled about walking inside each time they fill up.

Instead, learn how to recognize these devices before you pay.

What are credit card skimmers?

“A credit card skimmer is a device that transfers data from your credit card’s stripe,” says Chris Hauk, consumer privacy champion at online privacy and security site Pixel Privacy.

“Skimmers are usually found on gas pumps or other point-of-sale devices, in areas that aren’t being monitored every minute of the day. This allows the bad guys time to install a skimmer on a pump without being observed.”

How does a gas skimmer work?

As the name indicates, this device skims data off your credit card when you use it to pay. “A credit card skimmer is a magnetic stripe reader placed on an existing, legitimate card reader,” says Paul Bischoff, a privacy advocate with cybersecurity website Comparitech. “Whenever a customer pays with their card, their card is read by both the skimmer and the original reader.”

Because customers see their sales go through, they don’t have any reason to suspect anything has gone awry. “Skimmers are designed to be discreet so that the victim doesn’t notice them,” he says. “The skimmer stores scanned credit card info until the person who put it there retrieves it.”

From there, the thief can perpetuate online scams, using your credit card information to buy things online.

Do card skimmers work on chip cards?

Credit card skimmers do work on chip-enabled cards. However, they read the magnetic strip on your card, not the chip, so avoid the strip reader when possible. Think of this as one aspect of a multi-pronged approach to avoiding gas-station scams.

“Use a chip reader on the pump, if it is available,” Hauk says, “and always use a pump that is in a visible part of the gas station, such as the pump right in front of the cashier’s window. High-visibility pumps are tougher to attach skimmers to.”

What does a credit card skimmer look like?

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To an untrained eye, gas pump card skimmers look like part of the point-of-sale hardware. They are usually bulky and plastic, stick out further than the machine, and have arrows that don’t line up. The device may also wiggle because it’s not a permanently affixed piece of the machine.

“Because they’re attached to existing card readers, they tend to bulge out a bit,” Bischoff says. “If I’m suspicious, I’ll often give the card reader a tug and prod to make sure.”

But external skimmers aren’t the only way your credit card can be skimmed, and even people trained in surveillance techniques can fall prey to gas-station scams.

One Secret Service agent involved in an investigation about gas pump skimmers was the victim of gas-pump fraud himself — twice. So even a government official who’s trained on this topic often can’t tell if skimmers are there.

Robert Siciliano, CEO of cybersecurity training company ProtectNow, adds it’s increasingly common for gas pumps to be skimmed internally. “This means there’s a device attached in the communication lines that intercepts the card number as it travels over the Internet,” he says.

How do I know if my gas pump has a skimmer?

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Usually when you hit the gas station, you’re thinking about getting better gas mileage and making sure you don’t accidentally put diesel in your gas-fueled car. But before you pump, you really ought to take a moment to inspect the gas pump.

There are a few telltale signs that a pump may have a gas pump skimmer attached. Before you pay, inspect the point-of-sale terminal by following the guidance below:

• Look at the machines around you and compare the card-reading slots and keypads. If they don’t look the same, some might have credit card skimmers.
• Inspect the lockable door on the pump (where the attendant loads paper for receipts) to make sure it’s firmly closed. There shouldn’t be any uneven gaps in the casing — that indicates tampering. Some gas stations place tamper-resistant seals over the door, though not all stations take this extra step. Still, it’s something to look for.
• Ensure that nothing on the point-of-sale machine wiggles. Take a few seconds to verify everything is firmly attached.
• Be aware of hidden cameras thieves may have installed to capture your PIN when you enter it.

How can I protect myself at the gas pump?

Educating yourself on how to spot a credit card skimmer and what card skimmers do is a good first step in protecting yourself from gas-pump fraud.

Always exercise awareness anytime you’re using a public pay station, or when your card leaves your sight. A shop employee who takes your card into another room to run the transaction could be dipping the card into a skimmer.

Stay safe when filling your tank by following the expert tips below.

• Whenever possible, choose the pump closest to the building. They’re closest to employees and the least likely to have been tampered with.
• Avoid using a debit card, if possible. Should you be forced to use debit, run it as a credit card so you don’t have to enter your PIN. Debit purchases take the money right out of your account, while credit purchases have a lag time for payment and often offer zero fraud liability.
• Because scammers may use skimmed cards to pay for online orders without the merchant seeing the physical card, identity theft protection company LifeLock suggests setting up alerts to let you know if your debit or credit cards were used for a “card not present” transaction of $100 or more. Siciliano also recommends regularly checking your statements, especially if you’re often in crowded areas like subways and airports.
• Avoid the PIN pad. “If at all possible, always use the chip or the Apple Pay–type payment system,” Bischoff advises. A chip-enabled card is safer than swiping your credit card. And Apple Pay creates a unique code for each transaction, which offers some built-in protection.
• If you visit the same gas stations frequently, buy gas-station gift cards. They don’t carry any of your personal information. And since they have a limited value, should a scammer somehow get the numbers, your personal losses would be relatively minimal.
• Use gas apps, a safer way to pay at the pump.

What should I do if I think my card has been skimmed?

If you think your card has been skimmed, report it to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) to protect others from being scammed and to help the FTC break up skimming rings.

Installing the mobile apps for your various accounts is a convenient way to stay on top of your transactions. Regardless of how you do it, regularly checking your statements is critical. And timing can make the difference between you incurring out-of-pocket costs or not.

Not all credit card companies offer fraud protection, so you should also report the crime to your financial institution as soon as possible. How much you’re responsible for depends on how quickly you report the compromised card.

Additional reporting by Bobbi Jo Dempsey

Article source here: How to Spot a Credit Card Skimmer at Gas Pumps

Why Do Some New England Homes Have a ‘Witch Window’?

You can find so-called witch windows (AKA diagonal windows) on old New England farmhouses. The windows might seem to be architectural mistakes, but like other old home features, there’s a reason these windows exist.

What Is a Witch Window?

It’s a double-hung window installed at a 45-degree angle on the second story of some older farmhouses. The long edges of the window frame run parallel to the first- and second-story roof lines on the home’s gable end.

There’s a sensible explanation for this oddity. Let’s say you have a two-story home with a pitched roof. The home has windows on the first and second floors of the gable end — the part of the house where the sides of a pitched roof meet to form a triangle.

You decide to build an addition, but don’t want to mess with the existing roof. (Roof work can be expensive, after all.) You build a one-story addition onto the gable end of the home. However, the new addition covers up the windows that were there before.

You can put new first-floor windows on your addition, but there’s not enough room on the second-story end of the house to keep the existing windows. And if you don’t add new windows, it might be pretty dark up there.

Why not reinstall your old window at an angle, the only way it will fit? That seems to be what many homeowners in parts of Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine did!

Find ways to add farmhouse style without installing diagonal windows.

Why Are They Called ‘Witch Windows’?

Local lore says witches can’t fly diagonally, so having a crooked window would prevent them from getting into your home.

Less commonly, people also refer to witch windows as coffin windows, crooked windows, lazy windows or Vermont windows. People appreciate this kind of regional design quirk, the same way they appreciate the high ceilings and tall windows of Southern architecture.

You might want to take a New England road trip to look for witch windows.

Article source here: Why Do Some New England Homes Have a ‘Witch Window’?

12 Best Sprinklers for Kids

Rainbow Arch Inflatable Sprinkler for Kids

Sprinklers for kids have come a long way! Running through this rainbow arch inflatable sprinkler is a lot more fun than an old-school oscillating sprinkler.

It’s an adorable weather-resistant piece that needs little more than an air pump, garden hose and a good attitude to make the most of. It’s one of the happiest-looking sprinklers for kids and shouldn’t interfere with your lawn maintenance.

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Article source here: 12 Best Sprinklers for Kids

10 Ways To Repair a Fence

Wood Fence: Replace a Post

This is a common repair because wood posts rot, resulting in a leaning fence. This repair isn’t difficult. You’ll need 2×4 bracing, a reciprocating saw, a digging bar, concrete, a drill and some screws.

• Brace the fence panels on both sides of the post from both sides of the fence.
• Cut the nails holding the fence rails to the post with a reciprocating saw.
• When the post is free, muscle it out of the ground, then break up the concrete with a sledgehammer and dig it out of the ground.
• Set the new post plumb, brace it in position and backfill the hole with new concrete.
• Reattach the fence rails with three-inch screws and remove the braces when the concrete hardens.

Article source here: 10 Ways To Repair a Fence